There are a lot of great things about the Green and Red Chile Sauces you’ll see used in recipes throughout this chapter. But possibly the greatest thing: They’re completely interchangeable. In any recipe that calls for one, feel free to substitute the other. The Green Chile Sauce (pictured here) is good on any number of dishes, most notably on top of a cheeseburger, but I will also open the fridge first thing in the morning and take a shot of it, just for pure flavor. The Red Chile Sauce (pictured here) is a standard accompaniment in New Mexico to everything from eggs to enchiladas.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
4 pounds fresh Hatch chiles; use New Mexico or Anaheim if those are easier to find
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander seed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Char the peppers, by putting them either over the open flame of a gas grill or under a broiler for a few minutes, turning them to make sure they don’t burn. Put the charred peppers in a zip-top bag or a bowl covered with plastic wrap and let steam for 20 minutes. The skins should easily slip off. (If you can buy the chiles already roasted and peeled, by all means, do that.) Pull the stem off to remove the seedpod. Slit open the side of the chiles and scrape out the remaining seeds and veins. Discard the skins, pods, seeds, and veins. Chop the chile flesh into small dice. You should have about 3 cups.
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil and sauté the onion and garlic until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the roasted peppers, cilantro, cumin, and coriander. Bring to a low boil and cook for about 15 minutes, until everything is soft. Transfer the sauce to a food processor or blender and, venting the lid, blend it until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for about a week, or you can freeze it for up to six months.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
1 pound dried red chiles, preferably New Mexico (may sub ancho, pasilla, or use a combination)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped coarsely
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons honey
Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles and tear into 3 or 4 pieces each.
In a deep, heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil and sauté the onion and garlic until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add the chiles and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then add the oregano and salt. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 45 to 60 minutes, until the chiles are soft. Using a slotted spoon, remove the chiles, onion, and garlic to a blender. Discard the cooking liquid. Add the honey to the blender and puree, adding 1 to 2 cups of fresh water to the mixture as needed.
The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for about a week, or you can freeze it for up to six months.
MAKES 4 OR 5 PINTS
Replace common dill chips on your favorite sandwich with one of these and you’ll instantly have an entirely new favorite sandwich. (Pictured here.)
3 cups white vinegar
3 cups water
¼ cup kosher salt
2 pounds jalapeños, whole if small, cut in half lengthwise or in ¼-inch rings if large
4 or 5 tablespoons coriander seed
4 or 5 tablespoons freshly ground black peppercorns
4 or 5 tablespoons mustard seed
In a large saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, and salt. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt.
If using whole peppers, puncture each pepper several times with the tip of a small knife. Pack the peppers into 4 or 5 sterilized pint jars and top each jar with 1 tablespoon each of coriander seed, peppercorns, and mustard seed. Carefully fill each jar with the hot brine, then seal the jars to store in the refrigerator for up to one month, or can according to the directions here for longer storage.
NOTE: Yield and amount of brine needed will vary depending on whether the peppers are whole or cut.
There’s no better way to start a day in the great Southwest than with a breakfast burrito, but they’re less about a recipe than an opportunity.
You’ll start with a large, 10- to 12-inch flour tortilla for each person. Actually, if you’re thinking ahead, you’ll start with 2 tortillas per person.
You’ll want some potatoes. If you have some frozen hash browns in the freezer, they’re fair game. Heat them up. No frozen spuds? Dice a small onion and 1 medium potato for every 6 burritos and sauté them together in some olive oil until the potato is tender.
Vegetarian? Skip this next step. Not? Find some meat. Like leftover roast beef or Carne Adovada (here). When I stay with my friends in New Mexico, there’s usually some elk sausage in the freezer from the previous hunting season. Sauté that up for a great taste of place. Or chorizo. Or Italian sausage. Whatever you have.
Scramble up some eggs: 1 egg for every 2 burritos.
Grate some sharp Cheddar or Jack cheese. And you’ve already made Green Chile Sauce, right? Get that. Unless you prefer the Red Chile Sauce. (Both recipes are here.)
Put those ingredients together on a tortilla in your favorite proportions and in quantities that will allow you to enclose it all, then go out to the patio and watch the hot-air balloons rise with the sun over the mesa!