From India: Over 100 Recipes to Celebrate Food, Family & Tradition

kadai mangai curry

quail with mango curry

4 butterflied quails

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons finely grated ginger

1 tablespoon ghee (see glossary)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon red chili powder

2 dried red chilies

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp (see glossary)

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar (jaggery) or soft brown sugar

1½ tablespoons store-bought sweet mango chutney

2 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil

3–4 fresh green mango slices (optional)

SERVES 4

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas 4) and put a baking tray in to heat up.

Rub the quail with a little salt and half of the turmeric and ginger. Set aside to rest for 20 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and gently cook for 1 minute. Add the chili powder, dried chilies, tamarind pulp, coriander seeds, and remaining turmeric and ginger and cook for 4 minutes. Season with salt and add the palm sugar and mango chutney and cook for 5–7 minutes, gradually adding about ¾ cup (6 fl oz/185 ml) of water until the sauce is thick enough to coat the quail. Keep warm and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over high heat, add the quails, skin side down, and sear for 2 minutes, then turn over and cook for 1 more minute. Put the pan in the oven and roast for 4–6 minutes or until the quail is cooked but still moist inside—do not overcook.

Gently reheat the sauce if necessary. Cut each quail in half or quarters and drizzle the sauce over. Serve garnished with the mango.

tip: If you don’t have an ovenproof frying pan to cook the quail in, simply preheat a baking dish or baking tray in the oven and transfer the quail from the pan to the dish or tray to roast.

Veal pasanda

rolled veal in almond & saffron sauce

This dish was instrumental in Abhi’s getting the recognition from the most important food critic of Sydney in 1994. It is tender veal slices, rolled with sultanas, cashews, and pistachios, and then simmered in a rich saffron and almond sauce.

6 veal slices (scalloppini)

3 tablespoons slivered almonds

2 tablespoons cashews

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 tablespoon crushed garlic

2 tablespoons ghee (see glossary)

3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil

3–4 green cardamom pods

1 teaspoon red chili powder

2 teaspoons ground coriander

10 saffron threads

2 red onions, sliced

5½ oz (150 g) plain thick yogurt, beaten

½ cup (3½ fl oz/100 ml) half-and-half cream (18% fat)

2 teaspoons roughly chopped cilantro (coriander)

FILLING

1½ tablespoons milk powder

1 tablespoon cilantro (coriander) leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon crushed cashews

2 teaspoons pistachio nuts, halved, plus extra, crushed, to garnish

2 teaspoons sultanas (golden raisins), roughly chopped

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

SERVES 6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Combine all of the filling ingredients in a bowl, then divide into six portions.

Lay the veal slices on a work surface. Place a portion of filling in the center of each, leaving the edges clear. Fold in two opposite sides over the filling, then begin rolling from an open side and roll up the veal tightly like a spring roll, making sure all sides are seared. Refrigerate for 4 hours.

Meanwhile, soak the almonds and cashews in a bowl of hot water for 1 hour. Drain, then put in a spice grinder and grind into a smooth paste. Set aside.

Combine the ginger and garlic.

Heat the ghee and 1 tablespoon of the oil together in a saucepan over medium heat, add the cardamom, chili powder, ground coriander, and saffron, and when fragrant, add the onion and cook until golden brown. Add the ginger–garlic paste and fry for 2 minutes.

Mix the beaten yogurt with the cashew and almond paste, add to the pan and cook over low heat for 20 minutes, adding ⅓–1 cup (2½–8 fl oz/80–250 ml) of water sparingly in stages. Once the oil starts to separate, remove the pan from the heat.

Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan over medium–high heat, add the veal rolls and cook briefly on all sides, adding a little salt to taste (see tip).

Pour the sauce over the veal and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and serve garnished with the chopped cilantro.

tip: As veal is a prime cut of meat with little fat, it cooks quickly, so be careful not to overcook it and keep in mind that it will cook further in the sauce.

wagyu beef ullathu

keralan beef fry

This is a modern take on the traditional Keralan beef ullathu, using the great wagyu reared in Australia. There are a few steps in this recipe, but it isn’t laborious and the results are remarkable. Once the chickpeas are cooked, it is a quick and simple dish to make. The beef needs to be cooked just before serving and the dish finished at the last minute, so make sure you have everything ready.

½ cup (3¼ oz/95 g) black chickpeas (kala chana) (see glossary), soaked overnight and drained, or 1¼ cups (7¾ oz/220 g) canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon ground fennel

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons red chili powder

1 tablespoon ground coriander

⅓ cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) vegetable or sunflower oil

juice of 1 lime

2 lb 4 oz (1 kg) wagyu beef, cut into 4½ oz (125 g) medallions

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

2 teaspoons coriander seeds, coarsely crushed

6 dried red chilies

1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed

2 red onions, chopped

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 tablespoon sliced garlic

3 tablespoons fresh coconut strips or dried coconut flakes

10 curry leaves

2-inch (5-cm) piece of ginger, finely shredded

SERVES 8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

You will need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

If using black chickpeas, cook in salted water over medium heat for about 2 hours or until tender. Drain and set aside. This can be done the day before and the chickpeas kept in the fridge. If using canned chickpeas, do not cook.

Meanwhile, combine the ground fennel, ground pepper, turmeric, chili powder, ground coriander, 1½ tablespoons of the oil, and three-quarters of the lime juice in a small nonmetallic bowl, rub the mixture all over the beef, and leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hour (see tip).

Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over medium heat, add the mustard and fennel seeds, and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the coriander seeds, dried chilies, and peppercorns and cook for 1 minute. Add the onion and cook for 6–8 minutes or until golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 3 minutes.

Chargrill the beef as desired (preferably medium–rare to medium). Remove from the heat and set aside to rest.

Add the chickpeas and coconut strips to the onion mixture, increase the heat to high, add the beef, tossing to coat with the onion mixture, chickpeas, and coconut strips. Toss until everything is combined and heated through, then remove from the heat and add the remaining lime juice and the curry leaves and ginger. Serve immediately.

tip: Do not add salt to the marinade at this stage, as it will dehydrate the meat.

wattalappam

jaggery baked custard

This dessert originates from the Keralite Muslim populace. It is now a popular Sri Lankan dessert. It is made with kithul jaggery, which is dark brown and slightly bitter in taste, but when paired with the sweetness of the coconut milk, it provides a great balance of taste and color.

½ cup (3¾ oz/110 g) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon cashews, roughly chopped

2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) coconut milk

1½ cups (6 oz/175 g) grated kithul jaggery (see glossary)

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground mace

5 eggs, lightly beaten (see tip)

SERVES 8 AS A DESSERT

Preheat the oven to 315°F (160°C/Gas 2–3).

Put the sugar in a frying pan over medium–high heat and allow to melt, swirling the pan occasionally, but do not stir. Cook until it is a light golden caramel, then quickly but carefully pour the caramel into eight ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) capacity ramekins and swirl around to coat the base of the ramekins. Sprinkle the cashews over the caramel. Set aside.

Put the coconut milk, jaggery, cardamom, and mace in a large mixing bowl and beat well for 4–5 minutes or until the jaggery has dissolved. Stir in the eggs, then strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a jug. Pour the liquid into the prepared ramekins and put in a roasting tray. Pour hot water into the tray to come about halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 275°F (140°C/Gas 1) and bake for another 15–20 minutes or until the wattalappam are set.

Remove carefully from the oven and the water bath and cool, then refrigerate.

Bring to room temperature before serving. To remove the wattalappam, gently push down the sides of the custard to release it from the ramekin, then dip the ramekins in hot water and invert onto individual serving plates.

tip: Do not aerate the eggs by beating them too much, as a good wattalappam should have no air bubbles. It should resemble the texture of a crème caramel.

kanavai nerachathu

stuffed squid with spiced tomato coulis

12 baby squid

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

baby cilantro (coriander) leaves, to garnish

SPICED TOMATO COULIS

1 tablespoon sunflower oil

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

3 dried red chilies

⅓ cup (3¼ oz/90 g) tomato paste (concentrated purée)

½ bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves roughly chopped

juice of 1 lime

STUFFING

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

6 French shallots (eschalots), finely chopped

1 teaspoon chopped ginger

4 garlic cloves, crushed

3½ oz (100 g) raw shrimp meat, chopped

1 tomato, finely chopped

2 small green chilies, chopped

½ bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves roughly chopped

2 tablespoons chickpea flour (besan)

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

SERVES 6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

First clean the squid. Gently pull the tentacles away from the tube (the intestines should come away at the same time) and set aside. Remove the intestines from the tentacles by cutting under the eyes, then remove the beak, using your fingers to push up the center. Reserve the tentacles. Pull away the quill (the transparent cartilage) from inside the body and remove. Remove and discard the white membrane from the body. Slice off the wings and reserve.

To make the stuffing, heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat, add the shallot and cook, without browning, for 3 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for less than a minute. Add the remaining stuffing ingredients, including the squid wings, and cook over medium–high heat for 2 minutes or until you have a dry-ish mixture. Remove from the heat, season with salt, and set aside to cool.

Stuff the squid tubes with the stuffing and skewer the openings with toothpicks to secure. Set aside.

To make the spiced tomato coulis, heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat, add the fennel and dried chilies and cook for 1 minute or until fragrant and the tips of the chilies blacken. Add the tomato paste and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) of water and cook over medium heat for 5–7 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice and remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat. Add the stuffed squid and tentacles and sear each side. This will only take a couple of minutes, as the filling is already cooked and you only need to cook the outside—do not overcook the squid or they will become rubbery. Serve the squid immediately with a little of the coulis drizzled over the plate and garnished with the cilantro leaves.

sand whiting caldin

goan fish curry

I ate this dish in a little shack in Goa called Filsumai. The Goan duo of Johnny Gonzalves and Aunty Lourds run this little joint showcasing their great passion for Goan cuisine. This is my take on the fish caldin I had there.

4 whole sand whiting (or Pacific whiting), cleaned, gutted, and scaled

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric

3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil

2 onions, chopped

2 small green chilies, halved lengthwise

1 tomato, chopped

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp (see glossary)

⅓ cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) coconut milk

PASTE

½ cup (1½ oz/45 g) shredded coconut

4 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

3 dried red chilies

1 tablespoon white poppy seeds (see glossary)

SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Cut each fish into three pieces. Rub with a little of the ground turmeric and set aside for 20 minutes.

To make the paste, place all of the ingredients in a small blender and process until finely ground. Add ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of water and blend to a smooth paste. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, add the onion and cook for 6–8 minutes or until light brown. Add the chilies, tomato, and prepared paste, stir and cook for 15 minutes or until the raw coconut smell is gone.

Add the fish, tamarind pulp, and sufficient water to only just cover the fish, season with salt, and cook for 5–7 minutes.

Add the coconut milk and cook for 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

tip: The coconut milk is added towards the end so it retains its sweetness.

quail porichadu

pan-seared quail

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon red chili powder

1 teaspoon garam masala (see page 125)

juice of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

4 butterflied quails

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

2 dried red chilies

1 red onion, sliced

1 potato, thinly sliced

20 curry leaves

finely shredded ginger, to serve

SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas 4).

Combine the coriander, cumin, turmeric, chili powder, garam masala, lemon juice, ginger, and garlic and rub all over the quails. Set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan (see tip) over medium heat, add the fennel and chilies, and cook until the tips of the chilies blacken. Add the onion and cook for 6–8 minutes or until golden brown.

While the onion is being cooked, heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat and quickly fry the sliced potato. Set aside.

Add the quails, skin side down, to the pan with the onion and sear for 2 minutes, then turn over and sear for 1 minute. Towards the end, add half of the curry leaves and the fried potato and toss to combine.

Put the pan in the oven and roast 4–6 minutes or until the quail is cooked but still moist inside—do not overcook.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over low heat, add the curry leaves, and cook until just crisp. Drain on a paper towel and set aside.

Serve the quail garnished with the fried curry leaves and ginger.

tip: If you don’t have an ovenproof frying pan to cook the quail in, simply preheat a baking dish or baking tray in the oven and transfer the quail mixture from the pan to the dish to roast.

lau chingri

shrimp with winter melon

I came across this dish through the Indian Consul General, Amit Dasgupta, a frequent diner at Aki’s and a passionate food enthusiast. He enjoys sharing his culinary knowledge and has been kind enough to pass on his mother’s recipe. I find this dish to have a lot of clean and simple flavors where the ingredients speak for themselves. It is a quick and easy dish to prepare and is one of my favorites. It’s best cooked with small prawns. The traditional recipe asks for the prawns to be cooked whole because of the size. They are cooked to a crunchy texture and provide an excellent counterpoint to the melon.

½ cup (3½ fl oz/100 ml) vegetable or sunflower oil, for shallow-frying

1 lb 5 oz (600 g) shrimp, heads removed and legs trimmed

1 dried bay leaf

3 dried red chilies

½ teaspoon granulated sugar

1½ teaspoons panch phoran masala (see glossary)

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

7 oz (200 g) winter melon (also called ash gourd), peeled, halved lengthwise, sliced with seeds removed

2 teaspoons ground cumin

juice of 1 lime

SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Heat the oil in a large deep-sided frying pan over high heat, add the shrimp in small batches, and shallow-fry until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. Set aside.

Discard all but 3 tablespoons of the oil in the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the bay leaf, dried chilies, sugar, and panch phoran masala and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the ginger, add the winter melon and cook, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the winter melon is tender. Stir in the cumin.

Toss in the shrimp, season with salt, and increase the heat to evaporate any excess liquid. Add lime juice to taste and serve.

Crab iddiappam

coconut crab with steamed rice noodle cakes

Iddiappam are also known as string hoppers in Sri Lankan cooking. You will need specialty iddiappam flour and an iddiappam mold (or a pasta machine). These are both available from Indian and Sri Lankan grocery stores.

COCONUT BROTH

1 tomato

1 tablespoon vegetable or sunflower oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 red onion, thinly sliced

2 small green chilies, halved lengthwise

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

6 curry leaves

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger

1⅓ cups (11¼ fl oz/330 ml) coconut milk

IDDIAPPAMS

1 cup (7 oz/200 g) iddiappam flour (see glossary)

1 teaspoon vegetable or sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing

CRAB TOPPING

2 teaspoons vegetable or sunflower oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

2 red onions, finely chopped

1 small green chili, chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

7 oz (200 g) cooked blue swimmer crab meat

1 handful freshly grated (or frozen) coconut (see glossary)

10 curry leaves

SERVES 6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

To make the coconut broth, score a shallow cross in the base of the tomato. Put in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 30 seconds, then transfer to cold water and peel the skin away from the cross. Cut the tomato in half, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon and discard. Roughly dice the flesh and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for 20 seconds. Add the fennel and fenugreek, onion, and green chili and cook for about 5 minutes or until the onion starts to soften. Add the turmeric, curry leaves, and ginger, stir to combine, then add the tomato and coconut milk and cook for 10 minutes.

Add ¾ cup (5¼ fl oz/160 ml) of water, as you want a light broth that is not too thick or coconuty, and cook for 5 minutes, then season with salt. Strain the broth through a sieve and discard the solids. Set aside.

To make the iddiappams, bring 1–1¼ cups (9–10¾ fl oz/250–310 ml) of water to a boil. Add a pinch of salt and the oil. Put the flour in a large bowl and very gradually add the boiled water to make a soft dough. Knead well and form into a ball.

Grease the inside of an iddiappam mold with oil and fill with fist-sized portions of the dough at a time. When you press the mold, the dough will begin to fall out in strings. Move the mold in a circular motion, so that the strings fall onto a steaming tray to form a 3-inch (7.5-cm) diameter circle—it should be a thin layer of strings, only one or two layers thick. If using a pasta maker, keep the noodles as thin as possible, finer than angel hair pasta, more like vermicelli. Repeat with the remaining dough. You should have 12 iddiappams. Steam the iddiappams for 10–15 minutes. Keep warm.

To prepare the crab topping, heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the ginger, fennel, onion, green chili, and turmeric. Add the crab meat and just enough of the coconut broth to moisten the crab, and toss to combine. Add the fresh coconut and curry leaves and remove from the heat.

To serve, put two iddiappams on each plate. Top with some crab mixture and spoon over a little of the coconut broth to moisten. Serve accompanied by a small ramekin of additional coconut broth for spooning over during eating.

duck seekh kebabs

grilled minced duck kebabs

Wanting a variation from the usual lamb and beef kebab theme, I created this recipe using duck breast meat for its light gaminess and lower fat content than other parts of the duck. It’s a lightly spiced kebab, as I want to highlight the flavor of the meat and not cover it up with spicing. The sweetness of the plum chutney complements the light spicing. Easy to prepare and great to eat.

14 oz (400 g) ground duck breast (ask your butcher to do this)

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

2 teaspoons finely chopped mint

1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro (coriander)

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

2 teaspoons finely grated ginger

2 small red chilies, finely chopped

6 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 20 minutes (see tip)

vegetable or sunflower oil, for brushing

fresh plum slices, to serve

plum chutney (see page 211), to serve

MAKES 6 SMALL KEBABS

Combine the duck, orange zest, herbs, fennel, ginger, and chili with a little salt in a bowl and mix well. Refrigerate for 1 hour. The mixture will be easier to work with if the meat is chilled.

Divide the mixture into six portions and mold each around a bamboo skewer.

Preheat a barbecue grill to medium. Lightly brush the grill with oil and cook the skewers for about 10 minutes, turning occasionally until golden brown and cooked through. Serve with the fresh plum slices and plum chutney.

tip: Soaking the skewers for 20 minutes will prevent them from burning during cooking.

Feel free to experiment with how to cook the kebabs. Charcoal-fired barbecues will impart a lovely smoky flavor, which will go well with the duck meat, or you could use a chargrill pan. Whichever method you choose, take care not to overcook the meat, otherwise it will be dry.

scallops tamateri

seared scallops with tomato chutney

The sweetness of the scallops marries the tomato chutney perfectly, and the subtle, mellow hint of the curry leaf–infused olive oil is the finishing touch. The chutney is my grandmother’s recipe, except I have added onions, which she did not use in her cooking.

12–16 scallops

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

CURRY LEAF–INFUSED OIL

1 tablespoon gingili (unscented sesame oil) (see glossary) or sunflower oil

15 curry leaves

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

TOMATO CHUTNEY

6 ripe roma (plum) tomatoes

2 tablespoons gingili (unscented sesame oil) or sunflower oil

3 dried red chilies

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1 red onion, diced

2 teaspoons Kashmiri chili powder (see glossary)

⅛ teaspoon asafetida (see glossary)

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

10 curry leaves

1 teaspoon granulated sugar (optional)

SERVES 3–4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

To make the curry leaf–infused oil, heat the gingili in a frying pan over low heat and cook the curry leaves for 30–40 seconds or until crisp. Drain on a paper towel and pat dry to remove the excess oil. Crush using a mortar and pestle and mix with the olive oil. The oil will keep for up to two weeks.

Rub the scallops with the turmeric and set aside for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, to make the tomato chutney, score a shallow cross in the base of the tomatoes. Put in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 30 seconds, then transfer to cold water and peel the skin away from the cross. Cut the tomatoes in half, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon and discard. Roughly chop the flesh and set aside.

Heat the gingili in a small saucepan over medium heat, add the chilies, and cook until the tips of the chilies turn black. Add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the cumin and onion and cook for 5 minutes without browning. Add the chili powder, asafetida, ginger, curry leaves, tomatoes, and ½ cup (3½ fl oz/100 ml) of water (to soften the tomatoes) and cook for 15–20 minutes. If the tomatoes are not sweet enough, add the sugar.

To cook the scallops, heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat, and sear the scallops for about 20 seconds on one side, then turn over and sear the other side for 20 seconds—do not overcook or they will become rubbery.

Serve the scallops on a bed of the chutney, drizzled with the curry leaf–infused oil.

tesri sukhé

goan clams

What a way to celebrate the fresh cashew fenny (fermented cashew liquor) at the residence of our dear friends Seema and Gautam in Goa. Seema was kind enough to share this typical home recipe with me without any hesitation.

This simple recipe does not involve any grinding of spices, major marination, or much mise-en-place. In Goa, the local fishermen will open the clams with a special sickle, like a knife, for you. Here I have substituted baby clams in place of the Goan clams.

3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil

2 teaspoons crushed garlic

2 red onions, sliced into rings

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder (see glossary)

2 lb 4 oz (1 kg) baby clams, soaked in water for 1 hour, then drained

2 pieces kokam (see glossary), soaked in 3 tablespoons water, or 2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

½ cup (2½ oz/70 g) grated coconut (see glossary)

½ bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves roughly chopped

green chilies, to garnish (optional)

SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and lightly brown, then immediately add the onion, reserving a small handful to garnish, and cook for about 5 minutes or until soft. Add the turmeric and chili powder and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the clams, a pinch of salt, the kokam and its soaking water, and ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of water and cook, covered, for 2–3 minutes or until the clams open.

Add the coconut and cook for 2–5 minutes, ensuring you do not brown the coconut. Add the cilantro, reserved onion, and chilies to garnish.

kumro phool bhajja

bengali pumpkin flower fritters

In Bengali cuisine, a bhajja (fritter) is an essential part of any meal. A typical Bengali plate will have some rice in the center, surrounded by some fritters, a lentil dish, and some vegetables. On one of my trips to Kolkata (Calcutta) I came across pumpkin flowers at the Lake Market (the city’s fish and vegetable center). They piqued my curiosity, as they were sold alongside the vegetables and looked much like zucchini flowers. I asked my Bengali chef friends how they were used and learned that they transform the pumpkin flower into a bhajja. Here’s my take on their recipe.

12 pumpkin flowers or zucchini flowers with baby zucchini attached

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

tamarind and ginger chutney (see page 210), to serve

FILLING

¼ cup (2½ oz/75 g) paneer (curd cheese) (see glossary), crumbled, or cottage cheese

2 teaspoons chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves

2 teaspoons golden raisins (sultanas)

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger

BATTER

¾ cup (3¼ oz/90 g) chickpea flour (besan)

3 tablespoons rice flour

½ teaspoon finely grated ginger

½ teaspoon poppy seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

¼ teaspoon red chili powder

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric

SERVES 4–6 AS A STARTER OR AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

To make the filling, crumble the paneer into a bowl, add the remaining ingredients, season with salt, and combine.

Take 2 teaspoons of the filling and use to fill each pumpkin flower. Ensure you do not overstuff the flowers or they will become soggy when fried. Set aside.

To make the batter, place all of the ingredients in a bowl and stir in ¾ cup (6 fl oz/185 ml) of water. Season with salt and gently mix to form a batter, ensuring it is not too runny.

Fill a deep-fryer or large saucepan one-third full with oil and heat to about 355°F (180°C) or until a cube of bread turns golden brown in 15 seconds. Dip the stuffed flowers, in batches, into the batter, coating them completely, and deep-fry for about 3 minutes or until golden brown, turning once to cook evenly. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. Serve immediately with the tamarind and ginger chutney.

sura puttu

fish hash curry

This is a common Southern Indian dish that you’ll find in small restaurants all over the region. It is eaten as an accompaniment to a meal with other vegetables, lentils, and rice.

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

1 lb 5 oz (600 g) hake fillets, skin removed

3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

3 small green chilies, chopped

1½ tablespoons finely chopped ginger

8 garlic cloves, crushed

15 curry leaves

½ bunch cilantro (coriander), leaves roughly chopped

juice of 1 lime

SERVES 6 AS A SIDE DISH

Half-fill a saucepan with water, add 1 teaspoon of the turmeric, and season with salt. Bring to a boil, add the fish, and cook for 5 minutes. Drain the fish, then flake into pieces. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium–high heat, add the mustard seeds and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the fennel seeds, chili, ginger, garlic, and remaining turmeric and cook for 1 minute, stirring regularly so the spices don’t burn.

Add the fish and toss together. Add the curry leaves, cilantro, and lime juice. Check the seasoning and serve hot.

maan porrial

venison porrial

⅓ cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) vegetable or sunflower oil

1 lb 12 oz (800 g) venison loin, diced

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

2 red onions, chopped

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 tablespoon sliced garlic

1 teaspoon ground fennel

2 teaspoons cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons red chili powder

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 potato, boiled and diced

½ cup (1½ oz/45 g) shredded coconut

juice of 1 lime

10 curry leaves

SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over high heat, add the venison in small batches, and sear the meat all over to prevent the release of the juices during cooking. This is a dry dish and we do not want the venison to sauce it up. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Add the mustard and fennel to the same pan over medium heat and let the mustard seeds crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook for 6–8 minutes or until golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for about 3 minutes.

Add the venison and coat in the mixture. Add the ground fennel, pepper, turmeric, chili powder, ground coriander, potato, and coconut, gently stir to combine, and cook for 5 minutes or until the venison is cooked.

Stir in the lime juice, scatter over the curry leaves, and serve.

punjabi bheh masala

lotus root curry

A very dear family friend from Delhi served us this wonderful dish and shared this recipe with us. That was my first time eating lotus root, and I was extremely fascinated with the texture of the vegetable. This is a North Indian dish, very popular in Kashmir and Punjab. The Kashmiris cook this in yogurt and ghee, while I have made this preparation in mustard oil and poppy seeds.

1 lb 2 oz (500 g) lotus root

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 tablespoons mustard oil (see glossary)

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

3 red onions, grated

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

1 teaspoon red chili powder

1 tablespoon ground coriander

3 small green chilies, roughly chopped

red chili powder and finely chopped cilantro (coriander), to garnish (optional)

SERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL

Cut the lotus root into thin slices on an angle and soak in cold water for 1 hour.

Soak the poppy seeds in 3 tablespoons of water for 20 minutes (see tip). Put the poppy seeds and soaking water in a spice grinder or small blender and grind to a fine paste.

Drain the lotus root. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil with ½ teaspoon of the turmeric, add the lotus root, and cook for 20–30 minutes or until soft. Drain and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the mustard oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium–high heat, add the cumin and let them crackle for about 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook until brown. Add the poppy seed paste and cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes, adding a little extra oil to prevent the poppy seed paste from sticking to the pan.

Once the onion and poppy seeds turn a darker brown, stir in 1 tablespoon of water. Add the ginger, remaining turmeric, chili powder, and ground coriander and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring regularly.

Add the lotus root and green chili. Keep stirring until the sauce has thickened and coats the lotus root. Season with salt. Garnish with red chili powder and cilantro if desired, and serve.

tip: Soaking the poppy seeds makes it easier to grind them.

mishti dohi

baked sweet yogurt cream

I discovered this dish on my recent travels to Kolkata (Calcutta). Traditionally, these are baked in clay pots, which aids setting, but then the pot is broken when you’ve finished (for hygiene, so it’s not reused). We were served this for breakfast and I was enamored. What an excellent way to start the day or finish a meal.

½ cup (3½ fl oz/100 ml) thick (double/heavy) cream (crème fraîche can be substituted)

½ cup (4½ oz/130 g) sweetened condensed milk

6½ tablespoons (3½ oz/100 g) plain, thick yogurt

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon coarsely ground pistachio nuts (optional)

3 tablespoons pomegranate seeds (optional)

SERVES 4 FOR BREAKFAST OR AS A DESSERT

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas 4).

Put the cream, milk, yogurt, and cardamom in a bowl and mix thoroughly, then strain through a sieve into another bowl.

Divide the mixture among four ⅓ cup (2½ fl oz/80 ml) capacity ramekins and put in a baking dish. Pour hot water into the dish to come about halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for 15–20 minutes or until firmly set, keeping an eye on them. Remove from the water bath and leave to cool to room temperature.

Serve in the ramekins at room temperature or chilled, garnished with the pistachio nuts and pomegranate seeds.

ledikeni

bengali semolina doughnuts

On our recent visit to Kolkata (Calcutta), we came across this dessert that resembles gulab jamun (fried doughnuts soaked in syrup) but is slightly different. Ledikeni is the traditional Bengali dessert called pantua, but it was renamed in honor of Lady Canning, wife of Governor-General Charles Canning, who visited the local sweet shops of Calcutta in 1856.

2⅔ cups (1 lb 2 oz /500 g) granulated sugar

3 teaspoons rosewater

12 oz (350 g) paneer (curd cheese) (see glossary) (see tip)

2 tablespoons fine semolina

1⅓ cups (5½ oz/150 g) milk powder

3 tablespoons self-rising flour

3 black cardamom pods, seeds only (see tip)

2¼ cups (1 lb 2 oz/500 g) ghee, melted (see glossary)

3½ oz (100 g) superfine sugar

18 raisins

SERVES 6 AS A DESSERT

Put the granulated sugar, rosewater, and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) of water in a saucepan over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Continue to boil for 3 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly (see tip).

Put the paneer, semolina, milk powder, flour, cardamom seeds, 1 tablespoon of the ghee, and 2 tablespoons of the superfine sugar in a large bowl and knead to a doughy consistency. Set aside for 15 minutes.

Portion the dough into 18 balls. Push a raisin into the center of each ball and roll into a cylindrical shape.

Heat the remaining ghee in a wok or heavy-based saucepan to 320°F (160°C) or until a cube of bread browns in 30–35 seconds. Fry the dough balls for about 3 minutes, turning occasionally until slightly darker than golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel. Immerse the cooked dough in the prepared sugar syrup and leave to soak for 2 hours.

To serve, sprinkle the remaining superfine sugar onto a large sheet of baking paper. Remove the balls from the syrup, allowing the excess to drip off, and roll in the sugar.

tip: You can substitute the paneer with fresh ricotta cheese.

Green cardamoms can be substituted for the black version.

The temperature of the sugar syrup should be slightly on the warmer side, so when the doughnuts are added to it, the syrup will be able to seep through and flavor them.

pineapple kesari

pineapple semolina cake

This is a dessert that is very close to my heart. It has been a favorite of mine since childhood, but it became more special when my prospective mother-in-law served it to me when I met Suba for the first time. It is a popular sweet in South India and is one of those dishes that can be quickly conjured up if an unannounced visitor lands on your doorstep.

½ cup (4½ oz/125 g) ghee, melted (see glossary)

½ oz (15 g) cashew nuts, chopped into small pieces

¾ cup (5½ oz/150 g) coarse semolina (see tip)

1½ cups (10½ oz/300 g) superfine sugar

10 saffron threads

1¾ oz (50 g) pineapple, finely diced

3 green cardamom pods, crushed

2 tablespoons golden raisins (sultanas)

SERVES 6–8 AS A DESSERT

Place 1 tablespoon of the ghee in a small frying pan over medium heat and fry the cashews until golden brown. Set aside.

Heat a large, dry, heavy-based saucepan over low heat, add the semolina, and lightly toast for 1 minute to remove the moisture. Add 1¾ cups (14 fl oz/400 ml) of water and cook for about 5–7 minutes, stirring constantly. Once the semolina has softened, add the sugar, saffron, pineapple, and cardamom pods—this will turn the mixture a little watery. Gently cook for 4–5 minutes or until the sugar has dissolved, stirring constantly so the sugar does not caramelize on the bottom.

Slowly pour the remaining ghee into the semolina and cook for 5 minutes. By this point, the mixture should leave the sides of the pan and not stick to the base. It should appear a bit oily (see tip).

Stir half of the fried cashews and all of the raisins into the semolina and serve warm with the remaining cashews sprinkled over the top. This is a very sweet dish, so you only need a small portion per person.

tip: Coarse semolina is preferred over the fine variety.

The kesari should not be sticky to the fingers. There is a generous amount of ghee used so it does not stick to the eating utensils and for its great taste.

You can replace the pineapple with other flavors such as apricot and candied ginger.

pistachio kulfi

pistachio ice cream

kadai mangai curry

quail with mango curry

Veal pasanda

rolled veal in almond & saffron sauce

wagyu beef ullathu

keralan beef fry

wattalappam

jaggery baked custard

kanavai nerachathu

stuffed squid with spiced tomato coulis

sand whiting caldin

goan fish curry

quail porichadu

pan-seared quail

lau chingri

shrimp with winter melon

Crab iddiappam

coconut crab with steamed rice noodle cakes

duck seekh kebabs

grilled minced duck kebabs

scallops tamateri

seared scallops with tomato chutney

tesri sukhé

goan clams

kumro phool bhajja

bengali pumpkin flower fritters

sura puttu

fish hash curry

maan porrial

venison porrial

punjabi bheh masala

lotus root curry

mishti dohi

baked sweet yogurt cream

ledikeni

bengali semolina doughnuts

pineapple kesari

pineapple semolina cake