It’s no secret: ingredients from nature are incredible.
I like the idea of making all skin care edible, because if you wouldn’t put it inside your body, you must ask yourself: Should I even be putting this on my skin?
Oils
The oils chart on page 6, while not entirely extensive, covers the oils used in the recipes in this book, categorized by skin type with a little information and comedogenic rating. The comedogenic scale rates oils based on how likely they are to clog pores. This is important to be mindful of for people who are prone to acne and breakouts, as a likely-to-clog-pores oil is also likely to create blemishes. On the other hand, this scale can be used to choose a heavier oil that will stay on the skin extra long if you’re prone to dry skin.
This scale is loose, as everyone’s skin type will vary and be affected differently.
OIL SCALE
0: will not clog pores
1: low chance of clogging pores
2: mild chance of clogging pores
3: medium chance of clogging pores
4: quite likely will clog pores
5: almost guaranteed to clog pores
NOTE
When you’re measuring oils, remember that 40 drops equals 1 gram. And 28 grams equals 1 ounce.
Based on this scale, non-comedogenic encompasses 0–2 ratings. These are seen as generally safe for use on skin types prone to acne.
While the comedogenic scale may be helpful, it’s important to keep in mind the inherent actions of certain oils. You may choose to use a little of certain oils in a formulation because of their powerful skin care benefits even if the comedogenic number isn’t the best fit for you.
Carrier oils such as sunflower, olive, and coconut can be used to make herbal oils; they are often used as a base in skin care formulas and to dilute more potent ingredients like essential oils and highly concentrated oils. Only the carrier oils are labeled carrier; all others are concentrated.
Concentrated oils have really high vitamin and mineral content. A little of these type of oils goes a long way, and many of them require dilution, while a few can be used straight on the skin.
The following chart on oils is not absolute; you may find varying information. Go with what works for your skin.
*Squalene/Squalane: Our skin naturally produces this, but over time we produce less and our skin loses its plumpness and elasticity. Be certain if you use this that it is plant derived, as it’s also found and harvested from shark liver.
A note on essential oils: always dilute these. Straight essential oil is very difficult for your system to process.
When I was in massage school, an aromatherapist lectured one night who said that when she first started mixing essential oils, they made direct contact with her skin frequently and she thought nothing of it . . . until she started getting sick. Turns out, she was overstressing her liver with the concentrated oils.
Essential oils have incredible benefits when used diluted in a carrier, so don’t be afraid to use them. Just be careful.
TYPES OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR BENEFITS
Bergamot: cheery, uplifting. This oil causes photosensitivity, but it is also available as bergapten-free, meaning it doesn’t contain the photosensitivity chemical.
Cardamom: spicy; stimulating; enhances circulation; warming.
Chamomile: calming; soothing; good for sensitive skin.
Cinnamon: spicy; stimulating, works to increase circulation and warm areas, enhancing blood flow. Do not apply directly to the skin.
Cypress: tones veins; reduces inflammations; stimulating; antibacterial.
Geranium: a sweet, rosy essential oil wonder that balances oil production for oily and combination skin types.
Frankincense: regenerative; aids in elasticity; reduces fine lines and wrinkles and even scarring
Ginger: spicy; stimulating; clearing; warming.
Ho wood: a safe alternative to the over-harvested rosewood; increases circulation; natural disinfectant; reduces inflammation.
Jasmine: skin healing; brings back a state of youthful skin.
Jasmine is my personal favorite to put immediately on burns I get while cooking. As long as I apply jasmine right away, my burns go away within a day or two without blistering.
Kapur kachri: anti-microbial; reduces inflammation and pain; enhances circulation thus aiding in hair growth, shine, and strength; stimulates the scalp thus decreasing issues like dander.
Lavender: calming; soothing.
Lemon: uplifting and oil-balancing; acne reducing; balances uneven skin tone.
Just as lemon works as a disinfectant in household cleaners, it is a wonderful and safe disinfectant in skin care preparations.
Lemongrass: antibacterial; anti-fungal; antimicrobial; anti-inflammatory; uplifting; anti-anxiety; reduces acne.
Myrrh: heals wounds; stops bleeding; stimulates circulation, can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Rosemary: stimulating; clearing; antiseptic; anti-fungal with youth enhancing skin properties.
Sandalwood: excellent for mature, dry, and damaged skin; tones skin; calms skin issues such as inflammation and rashes.
Once, while working in a hospital, the fire alarm went off on my floor. My team and I quickly ran toward the room where the alarm originated, and as we approached the door, we were greeted by the stimulating aroma of tea tree oil. Inside the room lay a bald patient with a skin condition and his wife, sitting with him and applying straight tea tree oil to his shiny scalp.
That was it, no fire. Apparently, the chemical components of tea tree are so potent that they can affect smoke detectors. Never underestimate the power of essential oils.
Tea tree: microbial, supports healthy tissue, anti-inflammatory; clears up acne and inflamed skin issues; bacteria slaying.
Turmeric: reduces acne and inflammation; antiseptic; increases healing; reduces fine lines and wrinkles; great for all skin types.
Vetiver: anti-aging; cicatrisant; repels bugs; regenerates tissues; super strong and heavy scented.
Virginia cedar: stimulating; clearing; anti-inflammatory; repels bugs; increases hair growth; works to clear up acne; antiseptic.
Ylang ylang: seriously calming; great for reversing the signs of aging; tames acne and oily skin.
Types of herbs and their benefits
Alfalfa: incredibly nourishing for the hair; builds strength, elasticity, and density.
Arrowroot: toxin drawing; skin softening with its moisture-drawing abilities; pH balancing, promotes wound healing.
Beets: full of antioxidants and skin-rejuvenating vitamins that help reverse the signs of aging and promote cellular repair.
Bhringaraj: known as the “hair herb,” this beauty increases circulation to the hair follicles, creating healthy growth conditions for hair; full of nutrients that increase shine and strength; great for skin and nails; cooling.
Butcher’s broom: tones veins; works on circulatory issues; helps support venous tenacity.
Chaga: adaptogen; supports cellular regeneration, healthy skin, and hair growth; full of nutrients, enzymes, and minerals.
Cocoa: full of antioxidants; aids the circulatory system; invigorates healthy skin growth.
Cordyceps: adaptogen; anti-inflammatory, system-supportive, and nourishing for healthy skin maintenance and repair; may help reduce unwanted skin growths.
Hibiscus: anti-inflammatory; clears up acne; reduces fine lines; aids in healthy cellular turnover and increased collagen productions as it is full of AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and antioxidants; high in Vitamin C, which is great for fine lines and wrinkles.
Indigo: soothes and heals dry skin, inflammations, irritations, scaly patches; balances sebaceous glands; great for acne and oily skin.
Lavender: calming; soothing; gentle; relaxing; antibacterial; anti-inflammatory; great for treating acne.
Lemon Balm: the herb of joy; calming.
Maitake: adaptogen; full of phytochemicals to help nourish skin and heal.
Manjistha: astringent; helps support a clear complexion; calming; cooling to the skin and blemishes. Manjistha supports healthy skin by purifying the blood.
Marshmallow root: demulcent; soothing and softening; moisturizing.
Matcha: powdered green tea that draws impurities while revitalizing skin and adding nutrients.
Myrrh: reduces signs of aging; heals wounds and scars; stimulates; moves stagnation; antibacterial.
Nettle: antihistamine; full of minerals; great for skin, hair health, and healing; strength, flexibility, and nourishment for hair.
Reishi: adaptogen; supports cellular regeneration and healthy skin and hair growth; full of nutrients, enzymes, and minerals.
Roses: calms redness and irritations; cooling.
Sandalwood: gentle on skin, yet efficient; works to sooth acne and blemishes; reduces the signs of aging.
Slippery elm: moistening demulcent; hydrating.
Spirulina: a nutrient-dense algae that packs a skin-potent multivitamin with necessary enzymes for sensitive facial skin rejuvenation.
Turmeric: antiseptic, anti-inflammatory; reduces redness; reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
Clays
Types of clays and their benefits
Bentonite: contains volcanic ash and montmorillonite clay; this type of clay is very drawing and drying, thus ideal for oily skin types.
Blue: antibacterial; due to its mineral makeup, this clay is best used on oily and acne skin types.
French green: best for oily and acne skin; high in minerals.
Kaolin: the most gentle; safe for all skin; types, not very drawing, but works well for gentle absorption (like in deodorant) and exfoliation.
Pink-rose: gentle, yet efficient, this clay can be safely used on sensitive and dry skin types.
Red illite: great for oily and acne skin, highly absorbent, and can be drying (not suggested for other skin types); draws impurities from skin.
Rhassoul: best used for oily and acne skin types; rich in minerals; wonderfully toxin-drawing.
Sea: super gentle; safe for all skin types with heaps of sea nutrients.
Yellow: mellow clay, does not overly draw out oils; can be used for sensitive, dry, and all skin types.
Other Useful Ingredients
Banana flour: full of vitamins; moisturizing; oil-balancing; skin-tone balancing; makes for an excellent addition to any great skin care recipe!
Beeswax: great for all skin types and, in moderation in a formula, will not clog pores.
Charcoal: very porous and has the ability to absorb up to 500 times its surface area so it has the tendency to be very drying; an incredible cleaner that draws impurities and toxins into it amazingly well; use for oily or dry skin. When using charcoal in products, use very sparingly.
Chickpea powder: makes wonderful cleansing grains; exfoliates; adds proteins to skin; loaded with proteins, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes; works wonders on inflamed skin issues. You can’t go wrong using this in skin care formulas.
Citric acid: a fruit- or veggie-derived acid (similar in pH to vinegar, not battery acid), used in food and skin care as a preservative. Used in bath fizzies to create a gentle chemical reaction with baking soda.
Distilled water: in natural skin care formulations, bacterial growth can occur more easily than if you are using chemicals, so be sure if you are using water in a formulation that it is distilled, so it is as clean and pure as possible.
Guar gum: can be irritating so don’t use on sensitive skin types, but on the hair, it can work much like silicon, wrapping each hair in silky nutrition.
Glycerin: a humectant that supports youthful appearance of skin and allows ingredients to be better absorbed by the skin; compatible with all skin types.
Himalayan salt: high in precious minerals; balances pH; draws out impurities; definitely drying; exfoliating.
Honey: humectant; antimicrobial; antibacterial; probably the fountain of youth; keeps skin wonderfully hydrated and youthful; has the ability to clean up acne and blemishes as well as balance skin tone; works great on sunburns and irritated skin; can be applied directly to clean open wounds and speed healing while deterring bacterial growth or infection. Great for all skin types.
Hydrosols: aqueous distillates created from the liquid runoff during the process of making an essential oil; contains the aroma and nourishing attributes of the plant; awesome for facial toners!
Oats: skin softening; used in cleansing grains, as it soaks up excess oil and removes dead skin, but also good for managing acne as a moisturizing emollient; great in baths, especially if suffering from itchy, inflamed, or dry-skin issues.
Sea salt: high in precious minerals; great for the skin; pH balancing.
Sugar: exfoliant; humectant (helps skin maintain moisture); drawing; encourages new cell growth.
The following are a few natural preservatives, should you so choose to utilize these in your formulations.
PhytoCide Aspen Bark Extract: soluble in water; skin conditioning.
PhytoCide Elderberry OS: can be used in anhydrous solutions, oil solutions; skin conditioning.
Rosemary antioxidant: a natural preservative in oil formulations, derived from rosemary. Has antioxidant, skin nourishing properties.
