Cooking a fish shouldn’t be as difficult as hooking one! And yet, my dinner guests often ask me, “How do you get your fish to turn out so well?” Or they confess, “I don’t do fish—it’s too hard.” My usual response: Start with good quality seafood, cook it gently, and be sure not to overcook it.
Believe it or not, seafood is actually a lot easier to cook than meat or poultry. I’m not sure where seafood got its hard-to-cook reputation. Think about how tricky it is to get chicken or beef (especially lean cuts) to turn out moist and tender. But follow the cooking instructions in this chapter, and even if you’ve never cooked seafood before (or have, but with poor results), your seafood will be cooked to perfection. Better yet, these skills are easy to attain.
If you live on or near the ocean, it’s easy to get good, fresh fish and other seafood. If you don’t, fresh options may be more limited, but there’s always the freezer case. No reason to turn your nose up at frozen—there are some high-quality offerings out there, in places that may surprise you, such as Costco.
Here’s how to bring home the freshest catches:
1. At the fish counter, ask what’s freshest. And don’t take “Oh, they’re all fresh” for an answer! Some are bound to have come in more recently than others. It’s best to buy those, even if it means changing your dinner menu a little.
2. Observe the display. Seafood should either be refrigerated or sitting on a thick bed of fresh-looking ice that is not melting.
3. Look your fish in the eye. Obviously, this only applies to whole fish; the eyes should be clear and bulge out a little. Also check out the flesh, which should be firm and shiny with bright red gills and no milky slime.
4. Examine the fillets. Without the telltale head, you’ll have to look for more subtle cues when buying fillets, such as lack of discoloration, darkening, and drying around the edges. Flesh should spring back when pressed. (Ask the fishmonger to do this, as you’re probably not allowed to, for health reasons.)
5. Suss out the shrimp. If it’s raw and still in the shell, it should be gray, not pinkish. If shelled (or partially shelled), look for gray flesh that is translucent and shiny.
6. Look for signs of life. Unlike fish, oysters, clams, mussels, crabs, and lobsters spoil rapidly after death, so they should be alive when you buy them.
• If oysters, clams, and mussels are a little bit open, give them a tap. That should make them “clam up.” If they don’t close completely, they might be dead, so pass on these. If the store won’t let you touch them, ask the person behind the counter to do it.
• Touch the legs of crabs and lobsters; if you get movement, they’re still alive. If not, they may not be, so don’t buy them.
• Don’t buy any shellfish with cracked or broken shells.
7. Scan the tags and labels. Containers of live shellfish come with a tag stating the processor’s certification number, indicating that they were harvested, transported, and processed according to national shellfish safety standards. Shucked shellfish should also have this information on the container’s label.
8. Use your nose. While a salty, ocean breeze smell is fine, seafood should not smell fishy or give off a whiff of ammonia. That’s a sign that it’s past its prime. Some markets won’t let you smell the fish, saying that it’s against their health regulations. So if you get it home and it smells just a little fishy but otherwise looks good, it’s probably fine. Cooking should get rid of the smell and kill off most everything that’s not safe. (More on this in Chapter 10.) However, if it really stinks, throw it away. (Keep your receipt to ask for a refund—and consider buying from a different location next time!)
9. Buy it last, and keep it cold. Seafood should be the last thing you put in your shopping cart, just before checking out. Keep it cold on its way back to your home, even if it means bringing ice packs to the store or asking for a bag of ice at the seafood counter.
At the freezer case:
1. Skip the crystals. Avoid frozen seafood with any coating of ice crystals on the bag or on the seafood itself. That’s a sign that it’s been defrosted and refrozen, which can mean a mushy texture or possibly bacterial contamination. It’s easy enough to tell if it’s in transparent packaging; with opaque packaging you can gently press the bag to feel for crystals and listen for their crunchy sound.
2. Check for holes and tears. This sounds obvious, but make sure the packaging isn’t torn; even a little hole lets in bacteria.
3. Buy it last, and keep it frozen (see tip 9, above).
Treat raw seafood just as you would raw poultry and meat (or how you used to treat them—you won’t be buying these foods on the Pescetarian Plan!).
• Refrigerate or freeze it as soon as you arrive home.
• If you’re not cooking fresh seafood within two days of purchasing it, then wrap it tightly in foil or plastic wrap and freeze it.
• Thaw frozen seafood overnight in the fridge—not out on the counter. If you forgot to take it out of the freezer, then seal it up tight and place it in cold water for a while. Or, just before cooking, zap it in the microwave on the “defrost” setting so it’s still icy but pliable.
• When preparing raw seafood, make sure it doesn’t contaminate the rest of your food. That means using a separate cutting board and knives for the raw seafood and the vegetables or other cooked foods.
• Wash your hands before and after handling raw seafood.
• Wash the cutting board and knives well with soap and hot water after using them.
If you’re a novice at cooking seafood, there’s really just one simple rule: Don’t overcook it. Even experienced seafood cooks keep a close eye on their dish, especially in the last minutes of cooking. Depending on the variety and cut of your fish, your oven or stovetop, and your cookware, your seafood might take a little more or a little less time.
With that in mind, here are six basic techniques, information courtesy of our chef, Sidra Forman.
Works best for: All fish, shrimp (shelled or unshelled), scallops, squid, and octopus. It’s especially good with fish that have delicious skin when crisped, such as salmon, trout, and sardines.
1. Pat fish and shellfish dry with a paper towel and then, with fish that has skin, score the fish skin. Do this by making a row of X marks across the skin. This will ensure that the fish will not curl up and that the heat will distribute evenly throughout the fish in the pan. Using a sharp knife, take care to cut only the skin and leave the flesh of the fish intact. If the fillet does not have skin, there’s no need to score it.
2. Next, coat the fish, shrimp, or other seafood in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. The oil will help distribute the heat evenly and help prevent sticking to the pan.
3. Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet to high heat. Add a ¼ to ½ teaspoon of oil—that should be just enough to thinly cover the bottom of a 10- to 12-inch skillet. You can use canola oil spray—it’s easy and withstands high temperatures. Let the oil get very hot—you can tell it’s ready when you see the first sign of smoke.
4. Don’t let it smoke for more than a moment—immediately add the seafood, gently shaking the pan as you do so.
For fish: Place fish skin side down. Once the skin is crispy and brown, about two to four minutes, use a flipping spatula (not made of rubber) to turn the fish over gently. Cook until the fish is just beginning to flake but the very center is still translucent, about two to four more minutes. Exact cooking times will depend on the thickness of your fish and the heat of your pan. If you like your fish more well-done, cook it a bit longer—but watch out! You run the risk of ending up with a dry fish.
For shrimp and scallops: Depending on their size, shrimp take one to two minutes on each side. They help you out by turning pink—that’s the sign they’re ready or very close to it. (You can remove one and cut it in half to see if it’s cooked to your liking.) Sea scallops take about one minute on each side; bay scallops (which are smaller than sea scallops) take about 30 seconds on each side. They should be golden brown on both sides and have just turned opaque while still remaining moist. Use a pair of tongs to flip the shellfish—it’s much easier than with a spatula.
For both fish and shellfish, you can check for doneness by slipping a very thin, small knife in the flesh and lifting gently. Remember that seafood continues to cook even after you remove it from the pan. The trick is to remove it moments before it is cooked to your liking. Let trial and error be your guide. The reward of perfectly crisped skin and flaky moist flesh is well worth the trouble.
Works best with: Scallops, shrimp (shelled or unshelled), and all larger, meaty pieces of fish, such as catfish, salmon, and cod, both with and without skin.
Roast fish at either a high or low temperature; use high temperature for scallops and shrimp. No matter which temperature you choose, remember that the thicker and larger the cut is, the longer it’ll take. That means a three-inch-thick piece of salmon will take more time to cook than a one-inch-thick cod fillet, even if they’re both eight ounces.
One benefit of low-temperature roasting is that it’s more forgiving when it comes to cooking time; an extra few minutes will not make a significant difference. You don’t have that wiggle room at high temperatures; not only does the fish cook faster while in the oven, but because of the higher internal temperature it will also continue to cook longer once the fish is removed. Both methods can produce excellent results, so if you have the time, experiment with both. If not, stick to the high-temperature method, which will cut cooking times.
1. Preheat oven to 300°F for low-temperature roasting, 425°F for high-temperature roasting.
2. Coat the fish or shellfish in olive oil, salt, and pepper and top with fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, or chives, if desired. If using a whole, gutted fish, oil the cavity as well and place the herbs (as well as a few thin slices of lemon, if you like) inside.
3. Place the seasoned seafood on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Even better, place it on oven (parchment) paper. At a low temperature, fish will take between 15 and 25 minutes, depending on the fish and your oven. Low temps aren’t good for scallops and shrimp. At high temperature fish will usually take between 7 and 15 minutes, shellfish 3 to 6 minutes.
4. Remove fish from the oven when it is just beginning to flake but the very center is still translucent. You can slip a very thin, small knife into the fish and lift up gently to check. Shrimp is ready when it turns pink. Scallops are trickier—remove one from the oven, cut it in half, and check. The very center should be just barely translucent.
For fish with skin: A few minutes before it’s done, set the broiler to high and place the fish, skin side up, two inches from heat source, to crisp the skin. This will take one to three minutes depending on your broiler.
Works best with: All fish, although firm fish, such as wild salmon, are ideal. It’s also a good way to cook shrimp (shelled or unshelled), squid (calamari), or octopus. Gas grills are easiest because you can regulate the temperature better. Both charcoal- and wood-burning grills take time and effort but offer amazing flavor. Much like pan-roasting, high heat is optimal to prevent sticking.
1. Scrape down the grilling surface to remove debris.
2. Heat the grill. You can tell that charcoal grills are ready when the briquettes are coated with white ash. A wood-burning grill is ready just after the high flames die down but the wood is still burning hot. For a gas grill, set to medium-high and let it get hot.
3. For fish with skin, such as trout or salmon, score the fillets by making the shallow X marks across the skin, as described under “Pan-Roasting.”
4. Coat the seafood in olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
5. If the fish has skin, place it skin side down directly on the surface of the grill. Once on the grill, let fish and other seafood cook for 2 minutes and then lift with a metal spatula, rotate 90 degrees, and gently set it down again, to create those professional-looking “X” grill marks!
Flip again (very gently for fish!) with a spatula and repeat on the other side. Cook until the fish are just beginning to flake but the very center is still translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes total. After turning shrimp, it may only take another minute; for squid and octopus, another 2 to 3 minutes. Slip a thin small knife in the seafood and lift up gently to check your progress. Cooking time, as with any cooking method, depends on the type, shape, and size of the seafood as well as the heat of your grill.
Works best with: All fish, especially thin delicate fish, such as flounder, mackerel, sole, and shellfish, including shrimp (shelled or unshelled), scallops, mussels, oysters, crabs, and clams. You can also steam whole fish or nearly any type of fillet.
1. Add water to the bottom of a steamer, place on the burner, and bring to a boil. If you think you’re going to be doing this a lot, invest in a fish steamer, which is shaped to accommodate a long piece. Otherwise, just cut the fish to fit the steamer.
2. Season the seafood with salt, pepper, and herbs, if desired. You don’t have to do this—the flavor can come from the herbs or the sauce you use after it’s cooked.
3. Once the liquid is boiling, turn it down to a simmer, then add the seasoned seafood to the top of the steamer and cover.
For fish: Cook until the fish is just beginning to flake but the very center is still translucent, about 3 to 7 minutes. Of course, the cooking time depends on type, size, and thickness of the fish.
For scallops and shrimp: Shrimp are ready as soon as they turn pink. Sea scallops will cook in 2 to 3 minutes, and bay scallops will take only 1 to 2 minutes. Take care not to overcook!
For crabs: Steam the crabs until the shell turns bright orange, about 20 to 25 minutes. For Maryland-style steamed crabs, coat with a light coating of Old Bay seasoning or your favorite dried spice mix just after you place the live crab in the steamer. (You can use the same spices for shrimp.)
For clams, oysters, and mussels: Steam the cleaned shellfish until the shells open, about 5 to 7 minutes. If they were alive before cooking, they will all open; discard any that remain shut—these were probably dead when you bought them. Another easy method: Place them in an inch or two of boiling water or other cooking liquid, cover and cook until the shells open. Try enhancing the flavor of the liquid with a 50–50 mix of wine and water, with 1 tablespoon of finely chopped onions or shallots and 1 tablespoon of chopped herbs per cup of cooking liquid. Or try the Clams with Tomatoes and Garlic on Whole-Grain Pasta.
4. Serve sprinkled with herbs and lemon, or try the Salmon with Tahini and Toasted Nuts.
While grilling, broiling, pan-searing, and barbecuing over hot coals are all quick and delicious ways to cook fish and shellfish, these shouldn’t be your only cooking methods. That’s because high-temperature cooking (including deep frying, which I never recommend) of protein-rich foods creates cancer-causing chemicals called heterocyclic amines (HCAs). Barbecuing over coals is the riskiest, because you’re not only getting the HCAs but also other chemicals released into the cooking area when fat hits the coals. Those cancer-causing substances are called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Interestingly, marinating the food before barbecuing and dousing it with marinade throughout can lower the amount of HCAs.
High-temp cooking can also create compounds called advanced glycation end-products. Aptly named “AGEs,” these compounds, consumed in excess, can age you, causing sagging skin, cataracts, clogged arteries, and kidney and nervous system damage. People with diabetes who have out-of-control blood sugar produce these in high levels in their bodies. Whether you have diabetes or not, you can also accumulate too many AGEs through your diet. Protein-rich foods naturally contain AGEs, which rise dramatically when cooked at high temperatures.
So, while it’s okay to cook at high temperatures, for longevity’s sake, intersperse with steaming, poaching, and low-temperature roasting.
Works best with: Meaty fish, such as cod and skinless salmon, as well as shrimp (shelled or unshelled) and scallops. Because the seafood is immersed in a liquid, it is a great method to infuse flavor with little to no oil. There are endless possibilities for flavorings, but lemon, wine, leeks, herbs, and garlic all work well. Also, see the recipes for Cod, Cauliflower, and Pea Curry and Scallop Corn Chowder with Leeks.
1. Bring poaching liquid to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer. Season seafood with salt and pepper and then add to liquid, making sure it’s completely submerged. Keep at a simmer (if it boils, the seafood may get rubbery) until the fish is just beginning to flake but the very center is still translucent, about 3 to 7 minutes. Shrimp and scallops take about 2 to 3 minutes—shrimp is done when it turns pink and is opaque throughout. Scallops should be mostly opaque with a slightly translucent center.
Works best with: Scallops, salmon, or any other fish that tastes best rare in the center. This method involves high heat and short cooking times. The goal is a crispy, seared outside and a center that is rare or, if you don’t like it rare, just barely done.
1. Make sure your cast iron skillet is clean, smooth, and in good condition. Bumps and pitting make for uneven cooking.
2. Put the pan on high heat and let it get very hot.
3. Ideally, your seafood is at room temperature before cooking. Rub with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
4. Place the seafood in the pan and cook until very brown, about 30 seconds for scallops and 60 to 90 seconds for a fillet. Flip the seafood and brown the other side. If you like, slip a thin knife into the fish and lift up gently to see if the fish is flaking and scallops are mostly opaque but slightly translucent in the center.
We hope that you find these cooking methods straightforward and somewhat simple. I’ll repeat the key rule again: Don’t overcook! If you undercook, you can always cook it a little longer, but if you overcook, you’re stuck!
With wonderful, fresh seafood, all you need to do is use any of these techniques, squirt a little lemon on the finished product, and maybe dust with fresh chopped herbs. If you are using frozen seafood, check out recipes like Cod Burger and Salmon Seared with Fennel, Mushroom, and Sweet Red Pepper.
I predict that very soon, your dinner party guests will be asking, “How does your seafood turn out so perfectly?”