GOOSEBERRY FOOL

I love the acid tang of gooseberries, all the more desirable for being one of the few remaining seasonal ingredients, against the mouth-cooling, aerated blandness of the cream. On top of which, it’s simple, comforting, elegant: what more do you want from food? As a combination, it’s hard to beat. I don’t think it does to play around with this sort of thing generally, but a tablespoon of elderflower cordial (for those of us who don’t have access to the real thing) added to the cream is a respectful innovation, if indeed it is that; the conjunction of elderflower and gooseberry was a favoured one of the Victorians, who knew a thing or two about puddings (and see the recipe for gooseberry and elderflower ice cream).

I haven’t been specific about the amount of sugar used, but that’s because gooseberries tend to differ enormously in their respective sourness or sweetness, and obviously if you are using the elderflower cordial you will already be adding sugar in another guise.

500g gooseberries

60g butter

caster sugar to taste

300ml double or whipping cream

1 tablespoon elderflower cordial (optional)

Top and tail the gooseberries. Melt the butter in a large pan and add the fruit. Cover and turn the heat down to low and let them cook gently for about 5 minutes. When their greenness has softened to mushy yellow, take the pan off the heat and squish the fruit more with a wooden spoon, or give a quick go with a whisk. Don’t mash to a purée, though: you want some texture. Taste and, as I’ve said, add sugar as you think the mashed gooseberries need it: it depends on how young they are, how freshly cooked, and on your palate. Put the fruit in a bowl and leave it to cool.

Whip the cream till softly peaking – you don’t want it too stiff – and then fold in the fruit. If you’re using it, add the elderflower cordial. But mix gently: you want the cream to be punctuated by the sharp fruit, not all one pulpy mass.

I like this better in one bowl rather than in individual glasses, but it’s up to you.

Serves 4–6.