Visitors come to the Redwood Empire for one reason: to see groves of giant redwoods, the tallest trees in the world. But the redwoods are only one of the attractions in this area. The Smith River canyon, Del Norte and Humboldt Coasts, and the remote edge of the Siskiyou Wilderness in Six Rivers National Forest all make this region like none other in the world. Three stellar areas should be on your must-see list for outstanding days of adventure: the redwood parks from Trinidad to Klamath River, the Smith River Recreation Area, and the Lost Coast. Redwood campgrounds are in high demand, and reservations are necessary in the peak vacation season. On the opposite end of the spectrum are primitive and remote settings in Six Rivers National Forest, the Lost Coast, and even a few surprise nuggets in Redwood National Park.
8 CALIFORNIA COASTAL TRAIL/NICKEL CREEK CAMP
13 COASTAL TRAIL (HIDDEN BEACH SECTION)
17 COASTAL TRAIL LOOP (FERN CANYON/OSSAGON SECTION)
25 LYTEL RIDGE/EUCALYPTUS TRAIL
26 RATHERT GROVE/MEMORIAL TRAIL LOOP
28 FOUNDERS GROVE NATURE TRAIL
31 LOST COAST TRAIL/MATTOLE TRAILHEAD
2.5 mi/1.0 hr
Tolowa Dunes State Park north of Crescent City
This ancient sand dune complex seems to sweep on forever. It spans more than 10 miles from the mouth of the Smith River south along the Pacific Ocean, nearly reaching Crescent City, and is located adjacent to Lake Earl to the east. After parking at Kellogg Beach, walk north or south for five minutes or five hours—take your pick. Either way, you will feel like a solitary speck against the enormous backdrop of untouched sand dunes and ocean. Only rarely will you see other people. The area is known by several names, including Fort Dick Beach, Kellogg Beach, and Pelican Bay Sand Dunes, but by any name, it’s a good place to escape to nothing but wide-open beach for miles.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. Mountain bikes permitted but not recommended. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and map, contact Tolowa Dunes State Park. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Crescent City and Smith River.
Directions: Take U.S. 101 to Crescent City and Northcrest Drive. Turn northwest on Northcrest Drive and drive 1.5 miles to Old Mill Road. Turn left on Old Mill Road and drive 1.25 miles to the end of Old Mill Road and the junction with Sand Hill Road. Turn left on Sand Hill Road (at the Department of Fish and Game office) and drive 0.25 mile to the parking lot and the trailhead.
For trail and walk-in beach access: Take U.S. 101 to Crescent City and Northcrest Drive. Turn northwest on Northcrest Drive and drive six miles (it becomes Lake Earl Drive) to Lower Lake Road. Turn left on Lower Lake Road and drive 2.5 miles to Kellogg Road. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to the trailhead.
Alternative access: Follow the above access directions, but after turning left on Lower Lake Road, drive five miles to Pala Road. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to the trailhead.
Contact: Tolowa Dunes State Park, 707/465-7335, www.parks.ca.gov.
2.0 mi/0.75 hr
in the Smith River National Recreation Area
This interpretive trail follows year-round Myrtle Creek. The stream drainage runs along a geological boundary between typical local soils (which support redwood and Douglas fir forests) and dry, reddish, iron- and magnesium-rich serpentine soil (where rarer native species grow, such as Bolander’s and Vollmer’s lilies). It’s an easy hike with a lot to look at and learn about, including the remains of an extensive hydraulic mining operation, dating back to 1853, when gold was discovered here; 15 interpretive stops are linked to a numbered brochure. Keep to the trail. Collecting artifacts or plants is prohibited.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes.
Permits: Campfire permits (free) are required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, contact Smith River National Recreation Area. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Hiouchi.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive seven miles to the parking area and trailhead. Note: Park on the south side of U.S. 199 and cross the road to access the trailhead.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
7.0 mi/3.5 hr
in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park northeast of Crescent City
This is the kind of place where a nature lover can find religion; where the beauty is pure and untouched. The trail is a soft dirt path—often sprinkled with redwood needles—that allows hikers to penetrate deep into an old-growth redwood forest, complete with a giant fern understory and high-limbed canopy. The trail leads 2.8 miles to Fern Falls, which makes this one of the area’s better hikes in winter. The centerpiece is supposed to be the Boy Scout Tree, named after a scoutmaster, a double redwood that is located 2.5 miles in. Most people look for it and never see it. Look for a spur trail, unmarked—that’s right, no sign—that leads to it.
This is an easy hike, nearly flat and with only small hills—yet it’s extremely rewarding. Just walk into the forest, and a few hours later, walk out. Those few hours can change how you feel about the world. A bonus known to relatively few is Fern Falls, a 40-foot waterfall that flows in the rainy season. Reaching it requires a 3.5-mile hike one-way, making it a 7-mile round-trip hike.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. The park entry fee is $8 at the main entrance.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Hiouchi.
Directions: From U.S. 101 in Crescent City, turn east on Elk Valley Road and drive one mile to Howland Hill Road. Turn right and drive 3.5 miles to the trailhead, on the left. The last two miles are unpaved.
Note: If you plan to camp at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, use these directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east (past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and cross two bridges (stay right at the fork). At the junction, turn right on Howland Hill Road and drive about five miles to a small parking area and the signed trailhead, on the right side of the road.
Contact: Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Crescent City, 707/465-7335, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.7 mi/0.75 hr
in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park northeast of Crescent City
The Stout Tree, a mammoth coastal redwood, used to be signed and ringed by a short fence, with a short trail directly from the parking lot to the tree. The sign and fence are gone. What you’ll find now is a newer trail that is routed through the Stout Grove and beyond along the Smith River. You have to figure out on your own which tree is the Stout Tree, but most don’t find that too difficult. The trail is a 10- to 15-minute walk that takes an easy course to the Stout Grove, on to the Stout Tree (off the trail to your right as you walk in) and beyond to the Smith River. Most people take their time, absorbing the surroundings. Most everybody makes the mandatory stroll to the nearby Smith River, located a few minutes’ walk beyond the Stout Tree.
User Groups: Hikers and wheelchairs. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. The park entry fee is $8 at the main entrance.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Hiouchi.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and cross two bridges. At the junction, turn right on Howland Hill Road and drive about two miles to a small parking area (on the right) and the signed trailhead.
Contact: Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Crescent City, 707/465-7335, www.parks.ca.gov.
7.4 mi/4.25 hr
in Smith River National Recreation Area northeast of Crescent City
This is an old miners’ pack route, vintage 1800s, that has been converted into this hiking trail, an obscure path that is overlooked by most visitors. It starts along the South Fork Smith River, loops up the slopes of Craig’s Creek Mountain and back down to the river, and ends where Craig’s Creek enters the South Fork. In the process, it rises above the river and passes through forest, including old-growth redwoods and Douglas fir. You get several lookout points across the South Fork Smith canyon. Because of the contour of the mountain, the hike includes a good climb. The starting and ending elevations are the same (200 feet). Most of the time, you can have the entire trail to yourself. The South Fork Smith is very pretty here—a clear, free-flowing stream that drains a huge expanse of the Siskiyou Wilderness.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: For overnight use, a campfire permit (free) is required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, contact Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Hiouchi.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and drive approximately one-third mile and park in the signed area for river access. After parking, walk a short distance across South Fork Road to the north side of the second bridge. The trailhead is on the north side of the second bridge (called the Tryon Bridge).
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
1.0 mi/0.5 hr
in Smith River National Recreation Area northeast of Crescent City
This easy walk in an unblemished river setting will take hikers to the mouth of Stony Creek, right where it pours into the North Fork Smith River. It’s the kind of special place where you just sit and listen to the flow of moving water as it gurgles and pops its way over stones smoothed by years of river flows. The hike is easy, with a few ups and downs as it follows a bluff adjacent to the North Fork Smith (a designated Wild and Scenic River), then is routed right out to the mouth of Stony Creek. You’re surrounded by woods, water, and in the spring, wildflowers.
Note: For years, there has been an ongoing disagreement on how to spell it, either Stony or Stoney. The creek itself is spelled “Stony,” so it only makes sense to spell it the same.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Campfire permits (free) are required. Parking and access are free, but parking space is very limited.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, contact Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Gasquet.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive 14 miles to Gasquet and continue a short distance to Middle Fork Road. Turn left on Middle Fork, continue a short distance and bear right on Gasquet Flat Road. Cross the bridge and stay left at the intersection of Gasquet Toll Road and continue 0.8 mile to Stony Creek Road (signed). Turn right and drive a short distance to the trailhead.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
7.5-16.4 mi/3.5 hr-2 days
in Smith River National Recreation Area northeast of Crescent City
This trail is like a walk through history. It was originally part of a pack trail between Crescent City and the gold mines in southern Oregon, and the memories of the old days can shadow your hike much of the way. The trailhead is at 1,200 feet, but the route climbs right up to the ridge, reaching more than 3,000 feet. Once you reach the ridge, you have excellent views of surrounding peaks (Preston Peak is the big one) and the Smith River Canyon. Hikers may also notice that much of the vegetation along the trail is stunted, a result of the high mineral content in the serpentine rocks. The trail keeps climbing and ends at 3,400 feet. From start to finish, the trail covers 8.2 miles, although most hikers only make it halfway before they return.
Note: This trail is closed in the rainy season to stop the transfer of Port Orford Cedar Root Disease.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Campfire permits (free) are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, contact Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Gasquet and High Plateau Mountain.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427) and drive over the two bridges to a fork. Turn left on South Fork Road and drive 7.9 miles to Rock Creek Bridge and Forest Road 16N23. Turn right on Forest Road 16N23 and drive 0.9 mile (rough road, high-clearance advised). The trail begins at the creek.
This hike can also be done as a one-way trip with a shuttle. Leave second car on Howland Hill Road at a trailhead inside the park boundary for Jedediah Smith State Park.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
3-15.0 mi one-way/1 day
in Del Norte Redwoods State Park south of Crescent City
You get a little bit of heaven on this hike. It’s one of the feature trips on the Del Norte coast, coursing through virgin forest and meadows (with beautiful wildflowers in the spring) and granting great coastal views in several spots. Most will camp at the Nickel Creek Campground, then launch off from there. The trail starts along the coast, veers up sharply into coastal spruce and fir, and then dips into dense, old-growth forest. That’s the heaven. You will cross Damnation Creek, and then walk roughly parallel to U.S. 101. Most turn around at that point. You can extend the walk to make a one-way trip, with a car shuttle at your end point, with two crossings of U.S. 101 as you venture south; it’s 15 miles to the second crossing of U.S 101. Note that the cut-off trail, the Damnation Trail, is closed to the beach due to erosion and slides. Note that when you cross meadows here, ticks can be a common problem.
User Groups: Hikers and mountain bikes (restricted to first six miles only). No dogs or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. The park entry fee is $8 at the main entrance.
Maps: A trail guide is available for a fee from Redwood National and State Parks (707/464-6101). For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Sister Rocks.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive south on U.S. 101 for about 2.5 miles to Milepost 23.03 and Enderts Beach Road. Turn right (west) onto Enderts Beach Road and drive for 2.5 miles to the trailhead at the end of the road.
Contact: Del Norte Redwoods State Park, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
3.0 mi/1.5 hr
in Smith River National Recreation Area east of Crescent City
This is a perfect trail for a hot summer day, complete with a swimming hole. Hike 0.5 mile on the South Kelsey Trail, then one mile on the McClendon Ford Trail to the river. It’s an easy hike through a large forest of Douglas fir. The trail crosses Horse Creek, a small tributary, and then leads to a pretty beach on the South Fork Smith River. The starting elevation is 1,000 feet, and the ending elevation is 200 feet. Get the idea? Right, this trail follows an easy descent to the river, taking about 45 minutes to get there. The swimming hole on the river is secluded and out of the way of most vacationers, so most often, you have the place completely to yourself. You end up at a bouldered beach and a beautiful pool. It’s called the McClendon Ford because this is a historic river crossing, or ford, of the South Fork Smith.
Note: This is also the trailhead for South Kelsey Trail. If you are unfamiliar with the area, be sure to have a map of Six Rivers National Forest to reach the trailhead.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, contact Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Ship Mountain.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427), cross two bridges and bear left on South Fork Road and drive 13.7 miles (one mile past Steven Bridge) to Forest Road 15 (locals call it the “GO Road”). Turn right on Forest Road 15 and drive 3.5 miles to Forest Road FS15N39 (signed for Kelsey Trail; road turns to gravel here). Turn left and drive two miles to trailhead. Hike on South Kelsey Trail for 0.5 mile before connecting with McClendon Ford Trail.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
3-9.0 mi/1.5 hr-2 days
in Smith River National Recreation Area east of Crescent City
Back before cars, trains, and planes, Kelsey Trail spanned 200 miles from Crescent City eastward to Fort Jones near Yreka. It was built in the mid-19th century by Chinese laborers as a mule-train route. The trail is in good shape for about 4.5 miles then occasionally deteriorates in quality. The maintained section is on a beautiful piece of the South Fork Smith River. The trailhead is near Horse Creek, on the South Fork Smith River, at a 1,200-foot elevation. The trail initially drops down along the South Fork and continues south for 4.5 miles. A few camps are here along the river, including the Buck Creek shelter, which is heaven during a heavy rainstorm. The route then rises above the river, and at this point, seems to degenerate into oblivion if you try to follow it out of the canyon. Maps show the route extending to Baldy Peak and Harrington Lake.
South Kelsey Trail
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. Mountain bikes are permitted only to the wilderness boundary. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free brochure and hiking guide, contact Smith River National Recreation Area. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Summit Valley.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427), cross two bridges and bear left on South Fork Road and drive 13.7 miles (one mile past Steven Bridge) to Forest Road 15 (locals call it the “GO Road”). Turn right on Forest Road 15 and drive 3.5 miles to Forest Road FS15N39 (signed for Kelsey Trail; road turns to gravel here). Turn left and drive two miles to trailhead.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
8.1 mi one-way/1 day
in Smith River National Recreation Area east of Crescent City
The pay-off here is the site of the old Summit Valley Lookout, a quarter-mile side trip from the main trail after you climb out of the valley. You get views across to the Siskiyous on one side and to the coast on the other, with a chance on stellar days to even see distant Mount Shasta. It’s best done as a one-way trip with a shuttle to avoid a return climb of 3,500 feet.
The trailhead is set on a ridge at 4,600 feet, and the first mile of the hike is on an old jeep road. It then becomes a hiking path as it travels through meadows, where the wildflowers are spectacular in early summer. The trail then drops, plunging into a canyon and landing hikers along the South Fork Smith River at Elkhorn Bar, a beautiful spot at an elevation of 1,160 feet. Here it junctions with South Kelsey Trail, where you’ll find a few primitive campsites along the river. You then reach your other shuttle car for the trailhead for the Kelsey Trail.
This hike is best taken in the early summer when the wildflowers are blooming; the Smith River is running with a fresh, ample flow; and the temperature is not too warm. Nobody does this trip down and back; that would be a death march.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. Mountain bikes are permitted only to the wilderness boundary. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: Write to Smith River National Recreation Area for a free brochure and hiking guide. For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Six Rivers National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Summit Valley.
Directions to start of trail: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427), cross two bridges and bear left on South Fork Road and drive 13.7 miles (one mile past Steven Bridge) to Forest Road 15. Turn right on Forest Road 15 and drive 15 miles to the trailhead, on the left. Park on the side of the road.
Directions to end of trail for shuttle car: From Crescent City, drive north on U.S. 101 for three miles to U.S. 199. Bear right (east) on U.S. 199 and drive east past the main entrance to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and continue just past Hiouchi to South Fork Road. Turn right on South Fork Road (County Road 427), cross two bridges and bear left on South Fork Road and drive 13.7 miles (one mile past Steven Bridge) to Forest Road 15 (locals call it the “GO Road”). Turn right on Forest Road 15 and drive 3.5 miles to Forest Road FS15N39 (signed for Kelsey Trail; road turns to gravel here). Turn left and drive two miles to trailhead.
Contact: Smith River National Recreation Area, Gasquet, 707/457-3131, www.fs.usda.gov/srnf.
1.0 mi/0.5 hr
in Redwood National and State Parks south of Crescent City
The Yurok Loop is a great short loop hike that starts right next to pretty Lagoon Creek Pond in Redwood National and State Parks. Here’s the deal: From the trailhead, it’s a 10-minute walk above a beautiful beach with lots of driftwood, and a gentle climb to a great coastal overlook. From here you can scan miles of ocean and many rocky stacks. The prettiest view spans across False Klamath Cove. After enjoying the view, head south, and when you reach a junction, turn left and enter a forest where the trail burrows almost like a tunnel, heading gently downhill. It then emerges from the forest and leads back to the parking lot, making it a delightful and easy walk that is a perfect break for highway drivers.
Note: The Hidden Beach section of Coastal Trail (see listing in this chapter) junctions with this trail.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail guide is available for a fee from Redwood National and State Parks Headquarters. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Requa.
Directions: From Crescent City, drive south on U.S. 101 for approximately 14 miles. Turn right at the sign for the Lagoon Creek Parking Area. The trailhead is adjacent to the parking lot (on the ocean/north side).
Contact: Redwood National Park and California State Parks, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
6.4 mi/3.0 hr
in Redwood National Park south of Crescent City
This trek starts at one of the greatest coastal views, at the Klamath Overlook, on California’s north coast. You can scan the vast ocean-blue horizon, where it seems you can see the curvature of the earth. After parking, enjoy the view and then head off. It’s a 3.2-mile trip, one-way, to Hidden Beach. Locals with two cars can set up a shuttle. Leave a vehicle at the parking area for the Yurok Loop. It’s a 7.8-mile trip, one-way, with a climb of roughly 1,400 feet, excellent with a shuttle car. The trail runs along coastal bluffs and rocky cliffs, with sweeping views of the ocean. Pray for a clear day.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail guide is available for a fee from Redwood National and State Parks Headquarters. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Requa.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for about 60 miles to the Klamath River. Continue two miles north of the Klamath River Bridge to Requa Road. Turn west on Requa Road and drive 2.5 miles to the Klamath Overlook, at the end of the road. The trailhead is at the south end of the parking area. Head north on Coastal Trail.
Contact: Redwood National Park and California State Parks, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Redwood National Park south of Klamath
Lost Man Creek is very pretty, with many rock pools and lots of lush vegetation. It’s also a destination that is easy to reach. The trail heads southeast, the first 1.5 miles nearly flat, then starts to climb moderately, and then nearly levels out along the creek. Bring your camera, because it is rare to reach such a pristine setting with such a short walk. The trail is actually an old logging road that the park service plans on reclaiming and turning into a more low-key setting. On-the-spot note: The two-mile round-trip is as far as virtually all hikers take it; the trail actually continues for 10 miles, all the way back down to Bald Hills Road, so steep that you’ll be howling at the moon like a lone wolf.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail guide is available for a fee from Redwood National and State Parks Headquarters. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Orick.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 41 miles to Orick. Continue north for 3.5 miles just past Davison Road to Lost Man Creek Road. Turn right and drive 0.75 mile to the parking area and trailhead. Trailers and RVs are not permitted on Lost Man Creek Road.
Contact: Redwood National Park and California State Parks, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
4.0 mi/2.25 hr
in Redwood National Park south of Klamath
This trail is the paradox of the Redwood Empire. The pay-off is an easy walk into a grove of tall and ancient redwoods of cathedral-like beauty, with the trail shaded and surrounded by a lush fern understory. Your mission here is to reach Tall Trees Grove, home of the Libby Tree (more about this to come). Problem is, the access road is unpaved and narrow, with no place to turn around, and the parking lot is small. So you need a permit and gate code to get past the gate; it’s free at a visitors center. You provide your vehicle make and license plate, and the number of people with you. The hike in is an easy walk in the forest that leads to the Tall Trees Grove along Redwood Creek. In the 1960s, the Libby Tree was believed to be the tallest tree in the world and helped lead to the creation of Redwood National Park. The top of the tree, about 10 feet, broke off, and with laser-guided measuring techniques, the tree now rates 34th. Regardless, if you love big trees, this is a must-do.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A permit is required if you want to drive to the trailhead, with only a limited number of cars allowed per day. Permits are free and can be obtained at the Redwood Information Center starting at 9am. Just pick it up, get the gate combination, and then enjoy your trip.
Maps: A trail guide is available for a fee from Redwood National and State Parks Headquarters. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Orick.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 40 miles. About a mile before reaching Orick, stop at the Redwood Information Center, at the west side of the highway. Here you secure a permit number, which is actually a gate combination number you’ll need. Drive north on U.S. 101 through Orick and continue 0.25 mile to Bald Hills Road. Turn right on Bald Hills Road. Look for the Tall Tree Access sign and drive seven miles to a locked gate, on the right. Open the gate using your permit/combination number, drive through, close and lock the gate, and then drive six miles down the gravel road (C-Line Road) to the trailhead. No RVs or trailers are permitted.
Contact: Redwood National Park and California State Parks, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
7.5 mi/3.0 hr
in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park
This is one of the best hikes in the Redwood Empire: You pass world-class redwoods, Douglas fir, western hemlock and Sitka spruce, all in the 300-foot range. We advise a loop hike (and then doing Fern Canyon as a separate loop hike with the Coastal Trail), but the trail can be extended to Fern Canyon and beyond to the Coastal Trail and huge expanses of wilderness beachfront. The trailhead is located at the far end of the small parking lot for the Prairie Creek Visitors Center. From the trailhead, it’s a 0.6-mile hike to the junction with the James Irvine Trail. Within a few steps, you’ll know you’re walking in history. The James Irvine Trail contours in and out of lush ravines filled with big trees for 2.6 miles. In one ravine, old-growth 300-foot mammoths rise up with a canopy that blots out the sky, while a sloping wall of ferns and sorrel create an understory that extends 150 yards to the canyon bottom.
To complete the loop, turn left on the Clintonia Trail and hike 1.4 miles past two more groves to the Miners Ridge Trail. Follow the Miners Ridge Trail 2.7 miles back to the visitors center and enjoy the good, clean feeling that comes with hiking a few hours in a pristine landscape. The James Irvine Trail is easy enough that anyone can get a feel for ancient forest within a mile or so, yet long enough that the entire loop delivers a sense of discovery and awe with each grove.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a state park day-use fee of $8 per vehicle.
Maps: Trail maps are available at the park visitors center for a fee. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Fern Canyon.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 41 miles to Orick. Continue north for five miles past Orick and exit at Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. Travel west on the parkway for one mile to the park entrance on left. Turn left and drive a short distance to the visitors center and trailhead on right.
Contact: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Orick, 707/488-2039, www.parks.ca.gov.
8.0 mi/3.5 hr
in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park south of Klamath
This is a great hike, once one of the best coastal hikes anywhere. There is a good chance of seeing Roosevelt elk (about a dozen roam at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park at the meadow and often along Davison Road), Fern Canyon (see listing in this chapter), a dense forest (quiet and pretty), and a series of hidden waterfalls. In addition, there is a huge beach that’s spotless—that’s right, not even a single piece of litter.
Coastal Trail
From the parking area, start the trip by crossing a shallow stream; most of the year, the crossing consists of a few rock hops. If it’s higher, that’s good news, because it means the narrow waterfalls are running along the trail up ahead. Small temporary bridges are often provided from June through September.
Once you cross Home Creek, this trips starts off as a near-level walk. On the Coastal Trail, you walk roughly 2.5 miles north (waterfalls, wilderness beach, ocean views, coastal forest) to the West Ridge Trail. Then turn right and climb 1.8 miles (towering Sitka spruce, Douglas fir) to Friendship Ridge. Turn right again, where the trail contours south for three miles (old-growth redwoods) and then descend one mile into Fern Canyon (vertical fern walls, waterfall, stream) and then back to parking.
We often see elk on this hike. The ones to be wary of are not the big bulls with the giant racks, but the smaller females guarding their yearlings. On the Friendship Ridge Trail, on the last leg of a loop hike at dusk, we found ourselves staring into the bugged-out eyes of what appeared to be a 175-pound juvenile female, about 40 feet away. It then ran straight at us. To avoid it, we barreled over a fallen log on the right side of the trail and down about 10 feet into a fern-covered gulch, and then laughed like hell over what seemed a bizarre experience. Turns out 10 other hikers had been driven off the trail that day by female elk with young. Rangers say late fall is the most common time when the females’ protective maternal instincts give rise to hiker encounters.
User Groups: Hikers and mountain bikes. No dogs or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a state park day-use fee of $8 per vehicle. Overnight parking is not permitted.
Maps: Trail maps are available at the park visitors center for a fee. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Fern Canyon.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 41 miles to Orick. Continue north for 2.5 miles to Davison Road. Turn west on Davison Road and drive eight miles to Fern Canyon Trailhead. No trailers or RVs are permitted.
Contact: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Orick, 707/465-7347, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.8 mi/0.5 hr
in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park south of Klamath
The Fern Canyon Loop is one of the most inspiring short hikes in California. When you walk along the bottom of Fern Canyon, you’ll be at the base of 50-foot-high walls covered with giant ferns. It’s unique, dramatic, beautiful, and romantic. A small waterfall, which pours in through a chasm in the canyon wall and gushes into Home Creek, adds to the beauty. It is Home Creek, which runs through the bottom of the canyon, which can cause the one serious problem here for some day hikers. In winter this creek can flood, making the trail impassable. Although bridges are provided from June through September, hikers often have to hop back and forth across the stream in order to reach the back of the canyon. Wear waterproof footwear. At the end of the canyon, turn left and climb the trail to the canyon rim, and then continue through the forest back to the trailhead. A bonus is the adjacent beach to the north, which is wide open and spans for miles. It is also common to see Roosevelt elk on the drive in. This trail is well known by many, so it can get a lot of use during the summer months. Yet it is the rainy months, winter through early spring, when it glows and people are few.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a state park day-use fee of $8 per vehicle.
Maps: Trail maps are available at the park visitors center for a fee. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Fern Canyon.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 41 miles to Orick. Continue north for 2.5 miles to Davison Road. Turn west on Davison Road and drive eight miles to Fern Canyon Trail. No trailers or RVs are permitted.
Contact: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Orick, 707/465-7347, www.parks.ca.gov.
3.0 mi/1.25 hr
in Redwood National Park south of Klamath
With easy access, a flat trail, and a great name, this has become an extremely popular trail, with high numbers of tourists in summer.
The trail is routed along Redwood Creek, a pretty stream that flows out to sea near Orick. In the first mile, there are no giant redwoods, and tourists wonder what’s wrong. The enlightened few will instead notice the diversity of the forest, with spruce, alder, and maples, and a few redwoods, as well as lush blackberries and fern beds in some areas. The appeal is the riparian watershed, rather than old-growth, along the stream. In summer, for hikers, there are two temporary bridges put in over Redwood Creek. The first is about 1.5 miles in. Some big redwoods are on the far side of the creek, though it is mission accomplished for most tourists at that point, and they turn around and head back.
There’s a chance to see elk near the parking area. Stinging nettles are also abundant here, so stay on the trail. The stream attracts a diversity of wildlife, with ducks, herons, and hawks the most common sightings, and ruffed grouse and eagles are occasionally seen. Note that during the winter, the creek can flood the trail in some areas, making it impassable.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail guide is available for a fee from Redwood National and State Parks Headquarters. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Orick.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for approximately 41 miles to Orick and then about 0.25 mile north of Orick to Bald Hills Road. Turn right on Bald Hills Road and drive 0.25 mile to the access road. Turn right and drive 0.5 mile to the parking area and trailhead.
Contact: Redwood National Park and California State Parks, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
5.6 mi/3.0 hr
in Redwood National Park south of Klamath
Like love, it’s all about timing on this trail. In the spring, when the skunk cabbage, fern, and redwood understory reaches peak growth, this trail is a sensational 10. In the fall and early winter, when the vegetation gets knocked down, well, more like a 7. Since you now know this, we rated it a 9, assuming you will go in peak season. That done, few places anywhere cast an aura such as that found here on the Skunk Cabbage Trail in Redwood National Park. Every step is filled with the sense that this is an ancient place for old souls and youthful spirits. The trail is routed 2.8 miles amid a stunning forest understory out to a coastal bluff that towers over the Pacific Ocean. Hidden in the Redwood Empire, this rainforest looks like a jungle right out of Jurassic Park, or at least interior Kauai. You might even swear that a T. rex must be lurking amid the massive vegetation, spruces, and redwoods. Instead of dinosaurs, you might see black bears, endangered northern spotted owls, or marbled murrelets. We’ve seen spots where bears have chewed the bark on trees here, too.
From the parking area, the trail quickly enters a dense redwood and spruce forest, where the canopy is often completely enclosed by towering tree limbs. The trail meanders along a small watershed, Skunk Cabbage Creek; set beneath is a luxuriant forest floor filled with huge sword ferns, sorrel, and the giant skunk cabbage. Since you probably wondered, skunk cabbage is an herbaceous plant with massive stalks, a perennial that reaches its full growth from May through June. It is called skunk cabbage because of its strong scent when taken in, up close and personal; it’s even considered by some to be rank. But the smell isn’t a factor on this trip; rather, it’s about how the lavish growth of the plant adds a sense of age-old mystery to this quiet jungle. The trail eventually winds its way through redwoods as you near the coastal bluffs. That’s the spot for your trail lunch and turnaround.
User Groups: Hikers only. No mountain bikes, dogs, or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free.
Maps: Trail maps are available at the park visitors center for a fee. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Fern Canyon.
Directions: From Eureka, take U.S. 101 north for 41 miles to the signed exit for Redwood Information Center (if you reach Orick, you have gone one mile too far) and get in the left turn lane. Turn left and go 150 yards to the parking area. After obtaining trail and park materials at the center, turn left (north) on U.S. 101 and drive two miles (through Orick) to the trailhead entrance road on the left (comes up suddenly), signed Skunk Cabbage Trail. Turn left and drive 0.25 mile to a parking area.
Contact: Redwood National Park and California State Parks, Crescent City, 707/467-7335 or 707/465-5128, www.nps.gov/redw or www.parks.ca.gov.
5.0 mi/2.5 hr
at Patrick’s Point State Park north of Eureka
For visitors to Patrick’s Point State Park, this trail is the rite of passage. Problem is, there has been erosion on the trail section located between Agate Beach and Mussel Rock, and the rate of trail repair in 2015 was like the pace of a Caltrans project. When it’s completed, well, great (!), one of the best easy hikes is yours. If not, the trail is blocked off at the closed section.
Patrick’s Point is set on a coastal headland that is lush with ferns, spruce, and wildflowers. It’s bordered by the Pacific, which means visitors can go tidepooling or whale-watching. That means with this trail, you can get the best of these two worlds. At times, the trail tunnels through thick vegetation, and at other times it opens up to sweeping ocean views. Along the way, several spur trails provide access to many features, including Mussel Rock, Wedding Rock, Agate Beach, Rocky Point, Patrick’s Point, Abalone Point, and Palmer’s Point. The views are sensational at every one of these spots. The elevation of the trail is 200 feet and is nearly level its entire length. Each of the spur trails thus drops 200 feet to the beach. The spur trails, while short (they add just 1.5 miles to the hike), will make this a two- to three-hour trip, since you won’t want to just rush through it. In addition, Octopus Tree Trail offers a short hike that starts just across from the northern end of Rim Loop Trail. This bonus trail provides a chance to see many spruce trees with roots that have straddled downed logs, hence the name “Octopus Trees.”
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. The best wheelchair-accessible hiking trail in this park is from the visitors center to the Sumeg Village.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 per vehicle is charged.
Maps: A park map and brochure are available for a fee from Patrick’s Point State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Trinidad.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 22 miles to Trinidad and continue north for 5.5 miles to Patrick’s Point Drive exit. Take that exit and at the stop sign, turn left, and drive 0.5 mile to the entrance station. Continue to the Agate Beach parking area.
Contact: Patrick’s Point State Park, Trinidad, 707/677-3570, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.5 mi/1.0 hr
on Trinidad Head on the Humboldt coast north of Eureka
The Tsurai Loop is a great, easy walk with coastal vistas, unique terrain, and a nearby restaurant. The terrain includes the 300-foot miniature mountain at Trinidad Head, the pretty beachfront to the north of the Trinidad Head area, and the Trinidad Pier. The trip is best done in a counterclockwise loop. It starts by hiking up for beautiful views to the north, eventually reaching this perfectly situated rock lookout of the ocean. On clear days in spring and early summer it can be an ideal spot to watch for the puff-of-smoke spouts on the ocean surface made by migrating whales. The trail circles the mountain and then climbs to the top, a flat summit, where the views are only fair. The views are actually a lot better just 50 yards to the south, looking south toward Eureka and Humboldt Bay. As you head back down, you get more views of the rocky Trinidad Harbor and coast. The restaurant? It’s called Seascape, and you can get a crab or shrimp omelet (always fresh crab, in season) for breakfast that’ll have your mouth watering every time you start driving north of Eureka on U.S. 101. If there’s a wait at the restaurant, don’t hesitate to line up anyway.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Mountain bikes permitted but not recommended. No horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Trinidad.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for 28 miles to Trinidad. Take the Trinidad exit, turn left at the stop sign, and drive under the U.S. 101 overpass to Main Street. Continue on Main Street to Trinity Street. Turn left and drive a short distance to Edwards Street. Turn right on Edwards Street and drive to the parking area at the foot of the harbor.
Contact: Seascape Restaurant, Trinidad Pier, 707/677-3762, www.seascape-trinidad.com.
2-4.5 mi/1-2.0 hr
in Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary on the northern edge of Humboldt Bay
The 307-acre Arcata Marsh is a great bird-watching area, a mosaic of ponds, marshes, and wetlands that border Arcata Bay. It’s best explored by walking the loop. It is set on a levee above the marsh; the trail is short, flat, and routed in a loop for the best viewing possibilities. The loop is two miles, but it can be extended on other trails on levees for a longer trip. Several wooden photography blinds are available on the route, where you can hide yourself to view the ponds up close and take pictures of the birds. The setting is unique, with the coast, saltwater bay, brackish-water marsh, pond, foothills, and streams all nearby. This diversity means that an outstanding variety of species—more than 250 have been verified—are attracted to the area. Sightings can include belted kingfishers, ospreys, peregrine falcons, black phoebes, and song and savannah sparrows. In other words, birds from nearly all habitats are represented. Guided bird walks are common on Saturday mornings. One side note is that many locals eat lunch at the parking area, and just like Pavlov’s dog, tons of birds show up in the parking lot daily at noon for handouts. The rangers request that you don’t feed the birds (but everybody does). The Arcata Marsh Interpretive Center is open daily and has free maps, literature, and a posted list of recent bird sightings.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and mountain bikes. No horses.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free, detailed trail map, contact the City of Arcata and ask for the Marsh and Wildlife Trail map. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Arcata South.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 for five miles to Arcata and the Samoa Boulevard exit. Take that exit and turn west onto Samoa Boulevard; drive to I Street. Turn left (south) on I Street and continue to G Street, then continue straight on South I Street to a sharp right turn. Turn right and continue (around Hauser Marsh to your left) to parking and a trailhead (Arcata Bay to the west, Klopp Lake to your east).
Contact: Arcata Marsh Interpretive Center, Friends of Arcata Marsh, 707/826-2359, www.arcatamarshfriends.org.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Arcata Community Forest in the Arcata foothills
Arcata Community Forest provides a respite for students at nearby Humboldt State and for locals who want to wander amid a beautiful second-growth forest. A network of 18 trails covers about 10 miles and the Redwood Loop connects several of them. For newcomers a map is an absolute necessity. Mountain bikes are prohibited at about 50 percent of the trails in the forest, although these rules are occasionally broken. (On weekends, kamikaze mountain bikers tearing downhill can turn this hike into an extremely unpleasant experience.)
Start this trip at Redwood Lodge (mountain bikes not allowed) and take the Nature Trail. The trail will take you by many huge stumps, a small creek, and a forest of redwoods and spruce. At one point, you will see the awesome Octopus Tree, where the roots of a Sitka spruce have grown over the top and sides of a giant stump. At the junction of two trails, turn left twice for an easy and pretty trip. Trips in the Arcata forest can be expanded to include elevation gains and losses of 1,200 feet.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. Certain sections of the trail are off-limits to horses and mountain bikes; check the trail map for details. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free, detailed trail map, contact the City of Arcata and ask for the Community Forest Trail map. A free mountain bike trail map is also available. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Arcata North and Arcata South.
Directions: From Eureka, drive north on U.S. 101 to Arcata and the 14th Street/Humboldt University exit. Take that exit to 14th Street. Turn right on 14th and drive a short distance to Union Street. Turn right on Union and drive a short distance to 11th Street. Turn left on 11th and drive a short distance to Bayview. Turn left on Bayview and drive (road curves to the right, becomes East Peak Road) to Redwood Lodge and trailhead.
Note: No mountain bikes are permitted. Bikers and equestrians should use the Meadow trailhead, located where 14th Street enters the park.
Contact: City of Arcata, Department of Parks, 707/822-7091, www.cityofarcata.org/rec.
1.5 mi/1.0 hr
in Russ City Park in Ferndale south of Eureka
Russ City Park is like an island wilderness. It is located at the southern edge of Ferndale, covers just 105 acres, and yet retains its primitive state for wildlife, birds, and hikers. The best trip is the short 350-foot climb up Lytel Ridge. You climb up Lytel Ridge, where you pass Francis Creek, with sections routed through heavy fern beds and large firs, and offering views of a small pond and the Eel River watershed and floodplain. The trip is relatively short and easy enough, yet the terrain is steep in spots, and heavy fog or rain can make it slippery. It feels quiet and secluded, and gets overlooked by out-of-towners.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A free map and brochure can be obtained by contacting the City of Ferndale. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Ferndale.
Directions: From U.S. 101, drive to the exit for Ferndale/Highway 211 (13 miles south of Eureka). Take that exit and continue to Highway 211, turn right and drive (over the Eel River Bridge) four miles to Ferndale and Main Street. Continue on Main Street to Ocean Street. Turn left on Ocean Street and drive 0.75 mile to a gravel parking area and trailhead on the right (where Ocean Street turns into Bluff Street).
Contact: Ferndale Chamber of Commerce, 707/786-4477, www.victorianferndale.com.
1.8 mi/1.0 hr
at Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park near Bridgeville
This pretty hike is an easy walk through the redwoods, located on the southern side of the Van Duzen River. Most visitors instead walk to two redwood groves from a trailhead at the visitors center. On the north side of the Van Duzen, you have a chance to have the world to yourself in Rathert Grove. The trailhead is at the bridge at the Van Duzen River, just upstream from where Grizzly Creek enters the Van Duzen. The trail then is routed, about a 10-minute walk, to a junction with the Memorial Trail Loop. Turn right. The trail then circles the beautiful Rathert Grove, and then reaches a junction on the right with the Loop Trail; this is a short spur/circle at the Harriet Hunt Bard Grove. It then loops back to the Memorial Trail Loop, and you walk a short distance back to the bridge.
The Rathert Grove is one of seven relatively small yet pristine old-growth redwood groves protected in this park. There is nothing difficult about this or the other hikes in the park. In fact, stairs are provided in many of the few short, steeper spots. What makes this hike special is that on a weekday, you can have an entire old-growth redwood grove all to yourself. Where else can you do that? Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park is one of the most overlooked redwood state parks in California, receiving fewer than 25,000 visitors per year—and most of those in July and August. It is often overlooked because it is not located on U.S. 101, but rather Highway 36, a curvy two-laner that provides access to some of the state’s most remote areas. Many discover the park by accident, usually heading up to fish, canoe, or kayak the Van Duzen River; the state park provides an excellent river access point, as well as a campground.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes are permitted. Some facilities are wheelchair-accessible, but there is no trail access for wheelchairs.
Permits: No permits are required. A fee of $8 per vehicle is charged for parking.
Maps: For a free brochure and map, contact Grizzly Creek Redwoods. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Redcrest Quad.
Directions: From Eureka, drive south on U.S. 101 to the junction of Highway 36 at Alton. Turn east on Highway 36 and drive 17.2 miles to the park entrance, on the right.
Contact: Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park, 707/777-3683, www.parks.ca.gov.
2.2 mi/1.5 hr
in Humboldt Redwoods State Park south of Eureka
Most of the trails into beautiful redwood groves are on flats near watersheds. The Five Allens Trail is just the opposite: up, up, and up it goes, where you climb 800 feet in 1.2 miles. The pay-off is a pretty redwood grove, the Allens Grove, gorgeous and quiet, just the reason most visitors venture to the Redwood Empire. You’ll see a sign at the grove that says “The Five Allens,” and it refers to five redwood trees. From the trailhead near the Eel River, walk under the highway and then start the climb. As it rises up, the trail passes through a forest of mixed conifers; the tree canopy provides needed shade in the summer. A bridged creek can be very pretty. After a good climb, you’ll reach a fork. Bear left for the Allens Grove. You won’t see the huge mammoth-sized redwoods here, but it is a quiet, peaceful spot that most tourists from out of state never see. That’s why it’s in the book.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. The park entry fee is $8 at the main entrance.
Maps: A map can be obtained for a fee from Humboldt Redwoods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Weott.
Directions: From Eureka, drive south on U.S. 101 to the Redcrest exit. Take that exit and turn left, drive under the overpass, and continue a short distance to Avenue of the Giants. Turn right on Avenue of the Giants and drive south three miles (past High Rock Conservation Camp) to the Maria McKean Allen marker at pullout for trailhead parking. Cross through the pedestrian tunnel for U.S. 101.
For an alternate route from Garberville, drive north on U.S. 101 to the Founders Tree/Rockefeller Forest exit. Take that exit (north), turn right, and drive about 200 yards to Avenue of the Giants. Turn left on Avenue of the Giants, cross over the South Fork Eel River, and then bear right at the intersection in order to stay on Avenue of the Giants. Drive a short distance to the Five Allens trailhead parking.
Contact: Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Weott, 707/946-2409, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.4 mi/0.3 hr
in Humboldt Redwoods State Park south of Eureka
The paradox of the tourist public makes this one of the highest visited trails in the Redwood Empire. As the tourists drive U.S. 101, they’ll see the off-ramp for the Avenue of the Giants, and then, in the desire for a short walk among the giant redwoods, see the parking lot and trailhead, like, right there, 100 yards away. What you get is an old-growth grove with the classic sword fern-based understory on a flat route that makes for a short, easy walk. At the far end of the loop, you can extend the walk on a 0.2-mile link to the 0.5-mile Mahan Loop Trail. It’s very beautiful and the photos are classics. Problem is, you see, it’s too close to the highway. You can often hear traffic. We’ve been here in the winter, though, and it’s like a different planet: fewer people, little noise, moist and pristine. Truth is, if you want big trees—without the tourists—go instead to the next hike, just a few minutes away, the Bull Creek Trail North.
User Groups: Hikers only. There is wheelchair access, although the trail is a bit uneven. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a fee of $8 per vehicle.
Maps: A map is available for a fee from Humboldt Redwoods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Weott.
Directions: From Garberville, drive north on U.S. 101 about 20 miles to the Founder Tree/Rockefeller Forest exit. Take that exit and drive a short distance to Avenue of the Giants. Drive 100 yards (cross Avenue of the Giants) to the Founders Grove Parking Area/Trailhead (well signed).
Contact: Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Weott, 707/946-2409, www.parks.ca.gov.
7.4 mi/4.0 hr
in Humboldt Redwoods State Park south of Eureka
This trail provides a walk amid the largest grove of old-growth redwood trees in the world. It’s easy walking, with maybe a 200-foot rise, that’s all. You are amid sorrel, sword ferns, and the redwoods with massive bases that rise up and seem to poke holes in the sky. Start at the trailhead at Bull Creek Flats (signed Lower Bull Creek Flats Trail), a short walk to the Federation Grove). The trail ventures west along Bull Creek, an easy grade as you hike upstream. All the while you’re surrounded by forest, both redwoods and firs in a variety of mixes. In summer, there is a seasonal bridge at the Big Tree Area. A little over 3.5 miles in, you’ll arrive at the Big Tree Area. There are many redwoods here that range from 5 to 10 feet in diameter and 30 to 40 feet around.
On-the-spot notes: The park installs summer bridges across Bull Creek in the Big Trees Area, mid-May to early October. Also: For years, a big attraction was the Flat Iron Tree, a huge leaning redwood that grew in strange dimensions in order to support itself. Well, it’s not leaning anymore, because it fell down and went boom. On the broad side, the Flat Iron Tree measures more than 15 feet. An option: After the trail passes the Big Tree Area, it’s routed to the mouth of Albee Creek and ends at Mattole Road. The trailhead here (at Mattole Road) provides a shorter hike of about a mile to the seasonal bridge at the Big Tree Area.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. The park entry fee is $8 at the main entrance.
Maps: A map is available for a fee from Humboldt Redwoods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Weott.
Directions: From Garberville, drive north on U.S. 101 about 20 miles to the Founder Tree/Rockefeller Forest exit. Take that exit and turn left and drive a short distance to Avenue of the Giants. Turn left and drive a short distance to Mattole Road (the sign will say Rockefeller Forest/Honeydew, not Mattole Road). Turn left and drive 1.3 miles to the Lower Bull Creek Flats trailhead.
Contact: Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Weott, 707/946-2409, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.5 mi/20.5 hr
in Humboldt Redwoods State Park south of Eureka
The Williams Grove is one of Humboldt’s protected groves of old-growth redwoods. The launch point to enjoy this is the Williams Grove Day Use Area, which has a picnic area with barbecue grills along with restrooms. (It used to be free, but easy access and the new mission of California’s Department of Parks and Recreation means there is now an $8 fee.) We’ve always liked to start instead at the trailhead at the Hidden Springs Campground, an easy 1.75-mile walk (one-way). The camp is set in forest just above a big bend in the South Fork Eel River. The trailhead is located on the southwest side of the camp. The trail starts out nearly flat, then turns right and parallels the highway. It’s easy walking all the way, amid redwoods both young and old. Then the trail crosses under the highway and down the hill to Williams Grove. If you camp at Hidden Springs, a short trail is also available that is routed a short distance to the Eel River and Hidden Springs Beach.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. The park entry fee is $8 at the main entrance.
Maps: A map is available for a fee from Humboldt Redwoods State Park. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Weott and Myers Flat.
Directions: From Garberville on U.S. 101, drive north for 16.4 miles to the exit for Myers Flat. Take that exit 0.2 mile to Avenue of the Giants. Turn right and drive 1.2 miles to Williams Grove parking area on the left. Note: For Hidden Springs Campground (open only during the summer), take the same exit. At Avenue of the Giants, instead turn left and drive 0.8 mile the campground and trailhead.
Contact: Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Weott, 707/946-2409, www.parks.ca.gov.
24.6 mi one-way/3 days
on the Humboldt coast south of Eureka in King Range National Conservation Area
For many, this is considered one of the greatest treks on the Pacific Coast. It spans 25 miles on some of the coast’s most remote and beautiful landscapes and beaches. Always do the trip one-way, with a second shuttle car, north-to-south.
It’s called the Lost Coast because of the isolation of the area, which is shielded on all sides by natural boundaries. The route is set on bluffs and beaches from the mouth of the Mattole River south to Shelter Cove. With two vehicles, one parked at each end of the trail, or a shuttle service, hikers can then hike the trail one-way. This hike is best done from north to south. That way the winds out of the north will be at your back, not in your face. Firm-fitting waterproof boots with good, gripping soles are a necessity. They should be firm fitting because some of the walking is in soft sand, waterproof because there are several small creek crossings, and good gripping because some scrambling over wet boulders is required. The trail surface, well, it often isn’t much of a trail at all.
Bring a tide book. At several spots, you can only pass during low tides. In wet weather, landslides often cover the beach between Shipman and Buck Creeks. At times they are minor, but at other times, the slides can be significant. High tides and/or large swells wash against the base of these slides. During high tides and/or large swells, to pass through this landslide zone may be hazardous. Consult your tide book, keep an eye on ocean conditions, and plan to pass through this area at as low a tide as possible, particularly if ocean swells are large. Be cautious: This is an extremely isolated area. In many parts, there is no trail, and there is a lot of boulder hopping, where it is possible to twist an ankle. In winter after heavy rain, several streams can be impassable.
For a first visit and a great day hike, take the abandoned jeep trail from the campground at Lighthouse Road and head south three miles to the Punta Gorda Lighthouse. You’ll get a glimpse of the greatness here, and you’ll probably get the inspiration to continue on Lost Coast Trail, one of California’s greatest weekend trips.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Day-use permits are required for organized groups only. A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A detailed trail map is available for a fee, and a free map and brochure can be obtained from the Bureau of Land Management. Specify the King Range Conservation Area map. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Petrolia, Cooskie Creek, Shubrick Peak, and Shelter Cove.
Directions: From U.S. 101 in Garberville, drive north to the South Fork-Honeydew exit. Take that exit, drive west on Bull Creek Road, and continue 23 miles to Honeydew and Mattole Road. Turn right on Mattole Road and drive 14 miles (toward Petrolia). At the second bridge over the Mattole Road (one mile before Petrolia), turn left on Lighthouse Road. Drive west on Lighthouse Road to its end. The trailhead is just past Mattole Campground.
Shuttle: Lost Coast Trail Transport Service, 707/986-9909, www.lostcoasttrail.com; Lost Coast Shuttle, (707) 986-7437, www.lostcoastshuttle.com.
Contact: King Range National Conservation Area, 707/986-5400; Bureau of Land Management, Arcata Field Office, Arcata, 707/825-2300, www.ca.blm.gov; Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, 707/986-7711, www.parks.ca.gov.
11.6 mi/1 day
in King Range National Conservation Area south of Eureka
King’s Peak is one of the most prized destinations in the King Range. At 4,087 feet it’s the highest point on the Northern California coast, and from it you get a view that can make you feel that you’re perched on top of the world. The ocean seems to stretch on forever to the west, and on a perfect day you can make out the top of Mount Lassen behind the ridgeline of the Yolla Bolly Wilderness, to the east.
Reaching King’s Peak requires a 5.8-mile hike from the Northside Peak trailhead on Smith-Etter Road. In the process, you climb about 800 feet. Making the trip on a clear day is an absolute necessity, since the climb through the fire zone is buffered by the reward of the sweeping views. Trail signs are very poor, and water supplies at trail camps are from dubious sources, so it’s also essential to have a good map and a double-canteen water supply.
The entire King Crest Trail extends 10 miles one-way, starting from the trailhead listed in this hike to Saddle Mountain trailhead; then it descends four miles to the beach. That provides the alternative of a one-way overnight trip with a shuttle vehicle at the end of the trail. Note that the portion that heads down to the beach is called Buck Creek Trail and that it is very steep, one the steepest trails in California, with portions difficult to follow—this is considered an advanced hike; for some hikers, orienteering with a map and compass may be required.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, horses, and mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A detailed trail map is available for a fee, and a free map and brochure can be obtained from the Bureau of Land Management; ask for the King Range Conservation Area map. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Shubrick Peak.
Directions: On U.S. 101, drive to the South Fork-Honeydew exit (just north of Garberville). Take that exit to Wilder Ridge Road and turn southwest. Drive one mile to Smith-Etter Road and turn west. Drive six miles to the trailhead (this is a primitive, four-wheel-drive road and is closed from November 1 to March 31).
Contact: King Range National Conservation Area, 707/986-5400; Bureau of Land Management, Arcata Field Office, Arcata, 707/825-2300, www.ca.blm.gov.
9.6 mi/1 day
in King Range National Conservation Area south of Eureka
In just a few miles, you can gain access to some of the most remote sections of the California coast. But there’s a price (and we’ll get to that). The pay-offs are excellent views, a descent along a grassy ridge, and then down to a remote beach you’ll have all to yourself. One big problem: You descend 2,400 feet to the beach. That means you have to climb 2,400 feet to get back to your car.
From the Spanish Ridge trailhead, hike 1.8 miles along Cooskie Creek Trail and climb an easy 300 feet before reaching the junction with Spanish Ridge Trail. You then descend 2,400 feet in three miles en route to the coast. Know what that means? Right. Unless you can get a helicopter ride back, you’re looking at some serious grunt work.
The King Range is very rugged, primitive, and isolated. Thanks to that bumpy access road and the climb on the return trip, it’s rare to see other people here. And because there are no water sources along this trail, each hiker should carry two canteens of water. This trail is for experienced hikers only, and as with several of the hikes in the King Range, you should bring a map and a compass.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, mountain bikes, and horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit (free) is required for overnight use. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A detailed trail map is available for a fee, and a free map and brochure can be obtained from the Bureau of Land Management; ask for the King Range Conservation Area map. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Cooskie Creek and Shubrick Peak.
Directions: On U.S. 101, drive to the South Fork-Honeydew exit (just north of Garberville). Take that exit to Wilder Ridge Road and turn southwest. Drive one mile to Smith-Etter Road and turn west. Drive 10 miles (this is a primitive, four-wheel-drive road and is closed from November 1 to March 31) to Telegraph Ridge Road. Turn northwest on Telegraph Ridge Road and drive eight miles to the trailhead gate. In summer, continue driving two miles to the trailhead. When the gate is locked, the trailhead is accessible only by a two-mile walk.
Contact: King Range National Conservation Area, 707/986-5400; Bureau of Land Management, Arcata Field Office, Arcata, 707/825-2300, www.ca.blm.gov.
2.6 mi/1.5 hr
in Richardson Grove State Park south of Garberville
Big woods. Big water. That’s what Lookout Point Loop Trail supplies, with a tour through giant redwoods culminating at the canyon rim over the South Fork Eel River. Giant redwoods approaching 300 feet tall and estimated to be 1,000 years old are the highlight of Richardson Grove, while younger redwoods, firs, and tanoaks fill out the forest. Park at the visitors center. Start by walking through the old-growth redwoods for the first half mile. The trail crosses the road at the Madrone Campground Loop. Near the restroom, there is a signed trailhead for Lookpoint. The trail then rises through hardwoods (hence the name Madrone) about 300 feet over 0.4 mile to a 0.1-mile spur for Lookout Point. You get an excellent view of the South Fork. You can also see across the river to the Oak Flat Campground. To return, the trail loops back in a short circle over 0.3 mile to the trailhead sign.
As a free-flowing river, the South Fork Eel River can seem like a small trickle in late summer or a howling torrent during peak flows in winter. When looking down from Lookout Point during summer, it may seem hard to imagine how high the Eel has risen in high-water years. In 1955, 1963, 1986, 1997, and 1998, the river actually flooded its banks and wiped out several campgrounds in the state park. This is an easy and popular hike, both for daytime park visitors and for overnighters at Madrone Campground.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: For a trail guide and brochure (free), write Richardson Grove State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Garberville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, drive north on U.S. 101 to Leggett. Continue north on U.S. 101 about 17 miles to the park entrance, on the west side of the highway. Park at the visitors center (for campers, Madrone Campground; trailhead near restroom).
Contact: Richardson Grove State Park, Garberville, 707/247-3318, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.6 mi/1.0 hr
in Richardson Grove State Park south of Garberville
You want easy? You get easy. You want forest? You get forest. You want a campground trailhead? You get a campground trailhead. The Woodlands Loop, an easy, pretty trail that starts at the Huckleberry Campground, does all that and more. At the campground, the trailhead is near the ranger station. The trail crosses North Creek and then goes through both redwoods and tanoaks that are dense at times. It also includes a gentle uphill portion, rising about 250 feet. At the visitors center, get the brochure for the self-guided Quest Guide, which explains the flora you’ll see along the way.
Note that this trail and camp are set on the west side of U.S. 101, and that the South Fork Eel River is on the east side of the highway. There’s no direct river access from this trail or the nearby campground.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A fee of $6 per vehicle is charged for parking.
Maps: For a trail guide and brochure (free), contact Richardson Grove State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Garberville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, drive north on U.S. 101 to Leggett. Continue north on U.S. 101 about 17 miles to the park entrance, on the west side of the highway. The trailhead is accessible from the parking lot just inside the entrance.
Contact: Richardson Grove State Park, Garberville, 707/247-3318, www.parks.ca.gov.
3.8 mi/2.75 hr
in Richardson Grove State Park south of Garberville
The Toumey Trail is one of Richardson Grove State Park’s feature summer hikes. The hits just keep on coming. The trailhead is located between campsite Nos. 123 and 126 at Oak Flat Campground. The trail crosses the South Fork Eel River, where you cross on a summer bridge, and then enters the redwoods; take your time and enjoy the surroundings. You are routed through the redwoods. The trail climbs 300 feet, rising quickly to Panorama Point, with excellent views of the Eel River Canyon and Richardson Grove redwoods. It then is routed down, via a few switchbacks, to Kauffman Springs, and then ventures to a swimming hole on the South Fork Eel.
Note: This trail can be accessed only in the summer months.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A fee of $8 per vehicle is charged for parking.
Maps: For a trail guide and brochure (free), contact Richardson Grove State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Garberville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, drive north on U.S. 101 to Leggett. Continue north on U.S. 101 about 17 miles to the park entrance, on the west side of the highway. Follow the signs to Oak Flat Campground. The trailhead is located between sites 123 and 126.
Contact: Richardson Grove State Park, Garberville, 707/247-3318, www.parks.ca.gov.