The Mendocino coast is dramatic and remote with several stellar state parks, while Sonoma Valley produces some of the most popular wines in the world. The Mendocino coast features a series of romantic hideaways and excellent adventuring and hiking. The Fort Bragg area has three state parks, with outstanding recreation, including several easy hikes, many amid redwoods and along pretty streams. (For overnight hikes in a state park on a summer weekend, campsite reservations are required far in advance.) A driving tour of Highway 1 along this section of the coast is the fantasy of many. Along the twists and turns of the road are dozens of hidden beaches and untouched coastline to stop and explore. The prize spots are MacKerricher State Park, Salt Point State Park, and Anchor Bay. Inland, you’ll find pockets of redwoods near Guerneville, Philo, and Calistoga.
1 LOST COAST TRAIL/SINKYONE TRAILHEAD
6 CHAMBERLAIN CREEK WATERFALL TRAIL
10 BIG HENDY GROVE/HERMIT’S HUT TRAIL
11 IDES COVE NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL
15 SUMMIT SPRINGS TRAILHEAD/WEST SNOW MOUNTAIN LOOP
18 LAKE SONOMA SOUTHLAKE TRAIL
20 SENTINEL ROCK/FISK MILL COVE
23 BLUE RIDGE TRAIL TO FISKE PEAK
28 COYOTE PEAK/REDWOOD TRAIL LOOP
31 RIDGE TRAIL/NORTH SONOMA MOUNTAIN
16.7 mi one-way/2 days
in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park
This remote and rugged wilderness of Northern California coastline, covering more than 7,000 acres, is now protected forever as Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. It was once one of the least traveled jewels of California. No more. It has become fairly popular for trekkers looking for the wild side, despite few directional signs along roads, no highways leading here, and virtually no park promotion. The primitive, steep, and unforgiving terrain provides a rare coastal wilderness experience. The best way to explore it is on Lost Coast Trail, which is best hiked north to south to keep the north winds out of your face. A shuttle service is available for a fee through Lost Coast Trail Transport Service.
Day 1: From the northern trailhead at Orchard Camp, Lost Coast Trail starts out flat and pleasant, arcing around Bear Harbor Cove. From here the trail climbs 800 feet and then back down, passing through a redwood grove and also breaking out for sweeping coastal views. Enjoy them, because the hike gets more difficult, including a steep climb up, over, and down a mountain. The trail finally descends into Little Jackass Creek Camp, which is set beside a small stream 10.5 miles from your start.
Day 2: The closeout of a two-day hike should always be as enjoyable as possible, and so it is here, with divine views in many spots along the 6.5-mile route. Alas, there’s usually payment for views, and that comes in the form of several rugged climbs in the park’s most remote sections. After climbing to nearly 1,000 feet, the trail ends with an 800-foot downgrade over the last mile, descending to the Usal Campground parking area.
Notes: All food must be bear-proofed. Dogs are permitted only at car camps. At the northern boundary of the Sinkyone Wilderness, this trail continues north into the King Range National Conservation Area, where it’s routed for another 30 miles to the mouth of the Mattole River (see the listing for Lost Coast Trail/Mattole Trailhead in the Redwood Empire chapter).
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses allowed only on the section of trail between the trailhead at the park entrance and Wheeler Camp. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free unless you plan to camp.
Maps: A trail map and brochure is available for a fee from Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Petrolia, Cooskie Creek, Shubrick Peak, Bear Harbor, and Shelter Cove.
Directions: From Garberville, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for Redway. Take that exit to Briceland Road. Turn left (west) on Briceland Road and drive 17 miles to Whitethorn. Continue six miles to the Four Corners Fork then another six miles (the road turns to gravel) to the Needle Rock Ranger Station. Continue past the ranger station to the visitors center and park at Orchard Camp. Be aware that the access road is unpaved, that it may close unexpectedly in the winter, and that four-wheel-drive vehicles are often required in wet weather. There are few signs pointing the way to the park, and when they are posted, they are often stolen. Trailers and RVs are not recommended.
Contact: Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, 707/986-7711, www.parks.ca.gov; Lost Coast Trail Transport Service, 707/986-9909, www.lostcoasttrail.com; Lost Coast Shuttle, 707/986-7437, www.lostcoastshuttle.com.
11.2 mi/2 days
on the boundary of Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
This wilderness trail features three linked segments: Soldier Ridge Trail, Minnie Lake Trail, and Kingsley Lake Trail. In the process, this combines for a 5.6-mile walk to your destination, Kingsley Lake. The rugged climb on Soldier Ridge Trail to get there, along with the charm of this little lake, makes for an overnighter. It’s a long drive in the middle of nowhere just to reach the trailhead, and then when you get there, you’ll face a daunting 3.5-mile climb up the spine of Soldier Ridge toward the Yolla Bolly Crest. At the crest are three mountains lined in a row: Sugarloaf Mountain (elevation 7,367 feet), Solomon Peak (7,581 feet), and Hammerhorn Mountain (7,567 feet). The trail crosses a saddle between Sugarloaf Mountain and Solomon Peak, then drops down to little Kingsley Lake, which is created from the headwaters of Thomes Creek. All is quiet and peaceful here.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for South Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Willits, drive north on U.S. 101 for 13 miles to Longvale and Highway 162. Turn east on Highway 162 and drive 30 miles to the turnoff for Highway 162 East. Turn right and drive nine miles to the Eel River Bridge and Forest Road M1 (Indian Dick Road). At the bridge, turn left (north) onto Forest Road M1 and drive 27 miles to the trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Covelo Ranger District, Covelo, 707/983-6118, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
8.0 mi/4.5 hr
on the boundary of Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
The Rock Cabin Trail (also known as the River Trail) extends north into the Yolla Bolly Wilderness and up, over, and down a short ridge before pouring into Wrights Valley. About halfway in, the River Trail jumps to Wrights Valley Trail. It’s about a four-mile trip one-way to your destination. Here you’ll find the headwaters of the Middle Fork Eel River, one of the prettiest streams in the wilderness. The trail is well marked and includes two creek crossings and a pretty waterfall. The Yolla Bollys provide few lakes, but the Middle Fork awaits you. In order to protect steelhead, no fishing is allowed.
Note: Little Henthorne Lake, complete with two wilderness cabins, is located 2.5 miles from the Rock Cabin trailhead. Resist the urge to visit. This is maintained as private property. Hikers are often tempted to hike in via a very faint cowboy trail (with a river crossing) and camp here illegally.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for South Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Willits, drive north on U.S. 101 for 13 miles to Longvale and Highway 162. Turn east on Highway 162 and drive 30 miles to the turnoff for Highway 162 East. Turn right and drive nine miles to the Eel River Bridge and Forest Road M1 (Indian Dick Road). At the bridge, turn left (north) onto Forest Road M1 and drive 24 miles to Forest Road 25N15C. Turn left on Forest Road 25N15C and drive 0.75 mile to the turnoff for the Rock Cabin trailhead. Turn left and drive 0.25 mile to the trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Covelo Ranger District, Covelo, 707/983-6118, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
0.5 mi/0.5 hr
on the Mendocino coast north of Fort Bragg
Some of the best tidepools on the Pacific Coast can be found in Mendocino. One of the best of the best is here, located just south of Bruhel Point. When you first arrive, you’ll find a Caltrans roadside vista point (no overnight parking), restrooms, and a beach access trail. This is your calling. The trail is routed north toward Bruhel Point. And much of it is set along the edge of ocean bluffs. Do not make your own descent down the bluff. Instead take only the cutoff trails, which lead to the best tidepool areas. Time your trip during a low tide, or better yet, a minus low tide. That is when the ocean pulls back, leaving a series of holes and cuts in a rock basin that remain filled with water, providing the perfect habitat and viewing areas for all kinds of tiny marine life.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Not suitable for mountain bikes or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Inglenook.
Directions: From Westport, drive south on Highway 1 about two miles to milepost marker 74.09 and park at the Caltrans Vista Point parking lot. The tidepools are a short walk.
Contact: None.
1.2 mi/0.5 hr
in MacKerricher State Park north of Fort Bragg
The loop trail around Lake Cleone is not only easy but also definitely something special. Mrs. MacKerricher aptly named the trail Cleone, which means "gracious" or "beautiful" in Greek. The route includes several sections on raised wooden walkways, which provide routes through marshy areas. In the winter months, the southern part of the trail (without the boardwalk) can be flooded. Be sure to wear your high boots in the rainy season.
In some spots, the trail burrows like a tunnel through a variety of trees and lush vegetation. At others, it provides many glimpses of pretty Lake Cleone. It loops all the way around the lake, which is almost always full. The beautiful Pacific Ocean looms just beyond to the west, a cypress grove is to the south, and a marsh is to the east. The boardwalk is wheelchair-accessible. MacKerricher State Park is filled with many enticing highlights. It is also one of the few state parks with free day-use access.
Side trip: From the parking lot adjacent to the lake, you can walk under the built-up foundation of an old railroad line (now a bicycle trail called Old Haul Road) and connect to Headlands Trail. This is a must-do. It’s an easy short walk, much of it on a raised walkway that leads to a series of tidepools and the best seal- and whale-watching station on the coast.
User Groups: Hikers, leashed dogs, and wheelchairs (the trail is partially wheelchair-accessible). No horses or mountain bikes. Horse trails and mountain bike routes are available elsewhere in the state park.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and trail map is available for a fee at MacKerricher State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Inglenook.
Directions: From Fort Bragg drive north on Highway 1 for three miles to the park entrance. Turn left and drive to the parking area beside the lake. The trailhead is on the east side of the parking lot.
Contact: MacKerricher State Park, Mendocino, 707/964-9112, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.5 mi/0.5 hr
in Jackson State Forest east of Fort Bragg
Chamberlain Creek Falls is a surprise 50-foot waterfall set in a canyon framed by redwoods, well secluded in Jackson State Forest. Time it in the spring after a period of heavy rain and this one is a 10, where you’ll find a silvery stream emerging from the greenery in a chutelike cataract over the brink. It’s off the Mendocino grid and set back off an old logging road. The trail is short, little known to outsiders, and beautiful. This access road (gravel/dirt), by the way, can get muddy in the winter and extremely dusty in the summer. After parking, you’ll find the trail routed a short distance down the canyon to the stream, starting with a short series of steps. The trail simply heads down the canyon directly to the base of the waterfall. Jackson State Forest is overlooked by most visitors, despite the beauty of the area and the popularity of the Mendocino coast. That means you’ll most likely have the place to yourself. Jackson State Forest is the largest of Cal Fire’s eight demonstration state forests at 48,652 acres.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free trail map, contact Jackson Demonstration State Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Northspur.
Directions: From Willits, take Highway 20 west for 17 miles to Forest Road 200, a dirt road just before the Chamberlain Creek bridge. Turn right on Road 200 and drive one mile to a fork. Bear left and drive 3.5 miles. Look for a parking pullout and park on the side of the road. The trailhead is on the left. In the heaviest rainy season, note that State Forest Road 200 is sometimes closed due to weather; call ahead for the status.
Contact: Jackson Demonstration State Forest, Fort Bragg, 707/964-5674, www.fire.ca.gov.
7.0 mi/4.0 hr
in Russian Gulch State Park south of Fort Bragg
A 35-foot waterfall in deep forest makes this walk one of the prettiest on the Mendocino coast. Most of the year, this waterfall is a narrow silvery stream that pours atop and across a boulder. In winter it can build into a more powerful chute and land in the rock basin with surging splashes. It’s way better at high flows, of course.
The route is simple. Take North Trail for 2.5 miles out to its junction with Falls Loop Trail (see note for bikers). This seems nearly flat, with only a slight grade. At that junction, turn left and hike less than a mile, some of it a 150-foot climb, to reach the falls. Even in the summer months, this is a pretty, if narrow, silver cascade, streaming 20 feet across a granite boulder and down into a pool. The entire trip has very little elevation gain. It’s an easy walk out to Falls Loop Trail, then only a 200-foot gain to reach the waterfall. As you go, you’ll delve deeper and deeper into dense forest, and although a lot of the old growth was taken a long time ago, much is still divine.
Note: A paved bicycle trail runs parallel to North Trail and makes a great bike trip. But please note that bikes are not permitted on the dirt Falls Loop Trail. Bike racks are available at the intersection of these two trails, meaning bikers can make the trip to the falls with only a one-mile hike. In other words, ride to the Falls Loop Trail junction, park your bike, and walk one mile from there. This bike trail is also wheelchair-accessible. A large number of people also walk the bike trail, a five-mile round-trip.
User Groups: Hikers only. No mountain bikes, dogs, or horses. However, a paved trail for bicycles and wheelchairs is routed 2.5 miles to the trailhead of Falls Loop Trail.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A brochure and trail map is available for a fee at Russian Gulch State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mendocino.
Directions: From Fort Bragg, take Highway 1 south for six miles to the Russian Gulch State Park entrance. Turn right and drive a very short distance to the state park entrance. After passing the kiosk, travel down the hill and to the bridge. Turn left and drive past the campsites to the trailhead.
Contact: Russian Gulch State Park, Mendocino, 707/937-5804, www.parks.ca.gov.
8.1 mi/5.0 hr
in Van Damme State Park south of Mendocino
This beautiful streamside walk amid coastal redwoods is one of the most popular trails on the Mendocino coast. In spring, this one is a 10. The trail starts at the bottom of a canyon along the Little River and heads upstream, rising gently along the way, with a series of little bridges that crisscross the water. The creek is pretty and often clear, the forest canopy towers, and the understory of fern and sorrel is lush. Most people hike 2.3 miles (paved all the way) out to the junction of Loop Trail and then turn around and head back. Visitors can add on a three-mile loop, including a visit to the Pygmy Forest. This is where an elevated wood walkway is routed amid this unusual setting. Some people love this, for others, it’s no big deal, and there is a closer trailhead on a back road to the Pygmy Forest that you can drive to.
Fern Canyon Trail
Note that heavy rains can flood out the trail and wash out the bridges. Also note that if you’re a cheapskate, you can avoid paying the park entrance fee by parking in the beach parking lot next to the park entrance and walking in.
Note: This Fern Canyon Trail is not to be confused with the Fern Canyon Loop Trail on the Humboldt coast in the Redwood Empire chapter.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs or horses. Wheelchairs and mountain bikes are allowed only on the first 2.3 miles of the trail.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle. Beach parking is free.
Maps: A brochure and trail map is available for a fee at Van Damme State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Mendocino.
Directions: From Mendocino, take Highway 1 south for 2.5 miles to the park entrance. Turn left and drive 0.75 mile (signed) to the trailhead parking near the campground. Campers start near campsite 26.
Contact: Van Damme State Park, Mendocino, 707/937-5804, www.parks.ca.gov.
3.0-10.5 mi/1.0-5.0 hr
in Cow Mountain Recreation Area east of Ukiah
This trail will have you sweating like Charles Manson’s cellmate. The Glen Eden Trail is not only difficult to find (follow the directions precisely), but has several steep sections and is typically quite hot from late spring through summer and fall. The Glen Eden Trail eventually crosses Mendo Rock Road (this provides another trailhead possibility) and continues up to a series of great overlooks of Clear Lake. The views of Clear Lake and the Mayacamas Range are outstanding. To return, retrace your route. Few make the entire trip, but instead they just hike out to a good lookout and then return. The chaparral-covered slopes are peppered with pine and oak, with many miles of trails and fire roads. But it’s extremely rare to see other hikers. No off-road vehicles are allowed, unlike the southern portion of the Cow Mountain Recreation Area.
The 52,000-acre Cow Mountain Recreation Area is named for the longhorn cattle that once roamed wild in this area.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. Mountain bikes are prohibited on the first 2.5 miles of trail, after which public property starts and bicycles are allowed. Bikers should access Glen Eden Trail from other trailheads on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free trail map of the Cow Mountain Recreation Area, contact the Bureau of Land Management. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Cow Mountain.
Directions: From Ukiah, take U.S. 101 north for five miles to Highway 20. Turn east on Highway 20 and drive 14.6 miles (past Blue Lakes) to Scotts Valley Road. Turn right and drive 2.6 miles to the trailhead and parking.
Contact: Bureau of Land Management, Ukiah Field Office, Ukiah, 707/468-4000, www.blm.gov/ca.
1.0 mi/0.5 hr
in Hendy Woods State Park in Mendocino National Forest
This easy and short walk through an ancient redwood forest can have you smiling for days. Hendy Woods is located in the redwood-filled canyon of the Navarro River, which flows to the sea on the Mendocino coast. Although the park covers 845 acres, the two old-growth redwood groves, Little Hendy (20 acres) and Big Hendy (80 acres), are most compelling.
When you first arrive, you’ll be stunned at the sudden interface of the foothill grasslands with redwoods. At Big Hendy, start by taking the 0.5-mile Discovery Trail, which leaves the grasslands and enters the redwood grove on a dirt path. Suddenly you’ll be walking among towering redwoods, moss-covered stumps, and a sprinkling of giant fallen trees, all set amid ferns and sorrel. A great side trip is to walk uphill on the cutoff trail to the old hermit’s hut in a hollowed-out tree stump, where one of the last of the real hermits lived for years.
User Groups: Hikers and wheelchairs. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park entrance fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A brochure and trail map is available for a fee at Hendy Woods State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Philo.
Directions: From Mendocino, take Highway 1 south for about five miles to Highway 128. Turn east on Highway 128 and drive about 20 miles to Philo Greenwood Road. Turn south (right) and drive 0.5 mile to the entrance of Hendy Woods State Park, on the left. The trailhead begins just off the parking area.
Contact: Hendy Woods State Park, Mendocino District, Mendocino, 707/895-3141, www.parks.ca.gov.
10.5 mi/5.5 hr
on the boundary of Yolla Bolly Wilderness west of Red Bluff
At 8,092 feet, South Yolla Bolly Mountain is the highest point in this wilderness. The Ides Cove National Recreation Trail skirts this mountain as part of one of the top one-day loop trails available in the Yolla Bollys. A bonus is that a shorter loop hike (3.5 miles) is also available. From the Ides Cove trailhead, the trail drops down to the headwaters of Slide Creek and heads out to the foot of Harvey Peak, at 7,361 feet. This is the halfway point and a good spot for lunch. The trail turns sharply and is routed back along the flank of the South Yolla Bolly Mountains. On the way, it passes both Long and Square Lakes, which are both tiny water holes with small brook trout.
A free, primitive campground with two sites is available at the trailhead. Horse facilities are nearby, but not at the trailhead. The trail gets only light use.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest or Yolla Bolly Wilderness. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for South Yolla Bolly.
Directions: From Redding, take I-5 south to Corning and the exit for Corning Road/Paskenta Road. Take that exit, turn west on Paskenta Road and drive about 20 miles to Paskenta. In the town of Paskenta, Corning/Paskenta Road will split, becoming Round Valley Road on the left and County Road M2/Toomes Creek Road straight ahead. Continue straight on County Road M2/Toomes Creek Road for 20 miles to Cold Springs Ranger Station and County Road M22. Turn right on County Road M22 and drive about 15 miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
1.0 mi/0.5 hr
at the head of Black Butte Reservoir west of Orland
The Big Oak Trail is routed through a riparian area in the Stony Creek drainage above the head of Black Butte Reservoir. The habitat is constantly changing here based on creek flows and temperatures. The route is an easy jaunt. The riparian habitat here can make it an area to see wildlife in the sparse foothills of the Sacramento Valley. It has become part of California’s Watchable Wildlife system. The best time for hiking is at dusk, when the temperatures are more moderate and the best chance to see emerging wildlife occurs. This hike is not without a few potential problems. It’s too hot in the summer, and that’s when most people have time to visit the area.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and mountain bikes. No horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Julian Rocks.
Directions: Take I-5 to Orland and the exit for Black Butte Lake. Take that exit, turn west on Newville Road (County Road 200) and drive 10 miles to County Road 206. Turn left on County Road 206 and drive to County Road 200A. Bear left on County Road 200A and drive to the lake and trailhead.
Contact: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Black Butte Lake, Orland, 530/865-4781, www.spk.usace.army.mil.
4.4 mi/3.0 hr
on the boundary of Snow Mountain Wilderness in Mendocino National Forest
Very few people know about the Snow Mountain Wilderness, and far fewer know about this loop trail that traverses the region’s most treasured areas. Double-peaked Snow Mountain itself is the big ridge located about midway between I-5 at Willows and U.S. 101 at Willits. This trail starts at the northern boundary of the wilderness at the West Crockett trailhead (just west of Crockett Peak). Start by hiking two miles to get into Middle Fork Creek. The trail connects there with a spur trail to the waterfall. Take that spur 0.2 mile to the waterfall.
To turn this into a major loop, take the main trail uphill, a significant climb, to reach a small loop set between East Snow Mountain (7,056 feet) and West Snow Mountain (7,038 feet). To return, take North Ridge Trail, which drops down from Snow Mountain and traces the Middle Fork of Stony Creek for a good portion of the route back to the parking area; 13 miles.
This is a good hike in late winter or spring, but much of this area can be quite dry and hot in midsummer, especially on the North Ridge. From late spring through fall, rattlesnakes are common. Hikers should always be certain to carry a lot of water here, twice as much as usual.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Crockett Peak and St. John Mountain.
Directions: Take I-5 to Willows and the exit for Highway 162. Take that exit, turn west on Highway 162 and drive 21 miles to a T junction (signed Elk Creek). Turn left and drive one mile through the town of Elk Creek to Ivory Mill Road. Turn right on Ivory Mill Road (Road 308) and drive 15 miles to Forest Road M3. Turn left on Forest Road M3 and drive 15.5 miles to the signed turnoff for West Crockett trailhead. Turn left and drive 0.5 mile to the trailhead.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
3.25 mi/1.75 hr
on the boundary of Snow Mountain Wilderness in Mendocino National Forest
Every wilderness has secret spots. So it is here in the Snow Mountain Wilderness. On a hot summer day when every drop of water is counted as if it were liquid gold, you’ll find a simple paradise on this short walk to the headwaters of a tiny fork of Bear Wallow Creek.
Your destination is a pretty section of Bear Wallow Creek, a small feeder stream to the middle fork of Stony Creek. The hike starts at the Bear Wallow trailhead near the Windy Point Campground. The trail is routed straight east on Bear Wallow Trail for a little more than a mile. About 1.5 miles in, start looking for a spur trail on the right side, and when you see it, take it. This spur drops a short distance down to the source of the north fork of Bear Wallow Creek. If you think there are too many people in the world, just come here and look around.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Crockett Peak and St. John Mountain.
Directions: Take I-5 to Willows and the exit for Highway 162. Take that exit, turn west on Highway 162 and drive 21 miles to a T junction (signed Elk Creek). Turn left and drive 1.3 miles through the town of Elk Creek to Road 308/Ivory Mill Road. Turn right on Ivory Mill Road (Road 308) and drive 15 miles to Forest Road M3 (well signed). Turn left on Forest Road M3 and drive 13.4 miles to the trailhead.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
12 mi/1 day
on the boundary of Snow Mountain Wilderness in Mendocino National Forest
This trail includes two killer climbs, a wonderful little spring along the trail, and the ascent of West Snow Mountain, at 7,038 feet, for a panorama. Still interested? Then read on. The trail starts at the Summit Spring trailhead (there’s a small, primitive trailhead camp with a pit toilet and an unreliable spring). In the first two miles, you get a no-fun clamber up to High Rock. At the trail junction here, turn right on Box Spring Loop Trail and hike past the headwaters of Trout Creek to Box Spring, located just to the right of the trail, near another trail junction. In hot weather (typically all summer), this spot is paradise. Turn left and make the three-mile climb up West Snow Mountain. You will grunt and thump it out every step of the way. At the top, enjoy this victory for a while before dropping back down for the final three miles to the trailhead and parking area.
Do you yearn for the passion of the mountain experience? Do you crave the zest of life when you have a bad case of dry mouth and discover a mountain spring? Is the price of a climb worth it for the mountaintop payoff? Are you nuts? You need to answer yes, yes, yes, and yes to be ready for this loop hike.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A campfire permit is required for hikers planning to camp. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a map, ask the U.S. Forest Service for Mendocino National Forest. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Fouts Springs.
Directions: Take I-5 to the exit for Maxwell (north of Williams, south of Willows). Take that exit to Maxwell-Sites Road, turn west, and drive to Sites and Sites-Lodoga Road. Turn left on Sites-Lodoga Road and drive to Lodoga and Lodoga-Stonyford Road. Turn left and loop around East Park Reservoir to reach Stonyford and Fouts Spring Road (Road M10). Turn west and drive 25 miles to a signed access road for Summit Spring trailhead. Turn right and drive 1.5 miles to the parking area and trailhead, at the end of the road.
Contact: Mendocino National Forest, Stonyford Work Center, Stonyford, 530/963-3128, www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino.
4.0 mi/1.75 hr
in Manchester State Park north of Point Arena
The Alder Creek Trail starts by the park headquarters for Manchester State Park. The trail is routed past Lake Davis to the beach, then continues north along the beach to the mouth of Alder Creek. This is a coastal lagoon that attracts many species of shorebirds, including, though rarely, whistling swans. It’s also the area where the San Andreas Fault heads off from land into the sea.
Time it right here and all can seem perfect. Manchester State Park has two moods: one is sweet and one is foul. In late summer, fall, and late winter, radiant sunbeams set the Mendocino coast aglow, making for flawless beach walks. But in early summer, winds often blast out of the northwest and it can feel as if your head could blow off. Good thing it’s attached at the neck (well, at least for most people). In midsummer, fog smothers the coast about every morning.
User Groups: Hikers and horses. No dogs. The terrain isn’t suitable for mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and trail map is available for a fee at Manchester State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Point Arena.
Directions: From Point Arena, take Highway 1 north for five miles to Kinney Lane. Turn left and drive one mile to the park entrance, on the right.
Contact: Manchester State Park, 707/882-2463, Mendocino, 707/937-5804, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.5 mi/0.75 hr
in Gualala Point Regional Park on the Sonoma coast
The Headlands (to beach) Loop is an easy, short walk. It provides coastal views with a short cutoff on a spur trail. It also furnishes a lookout over the Gualala River and a route amid giant coastal cypress trees. From the visitors center, the trail is routed along the Gualala River and then turns and loops to the left. Here you can take the short cutoff trail that leads to the beach. On the way back, the trail traces the ocean bluffs for a short spell. For coastal views, take the spur trail to a lookout. Then the main trail turns inland and returns to the visitors center. Bonuses here include excellent whale-watching during the winter and good wildflower blooms on the grassy hillsides in spring. It is mostly level. The trailhead elevation is 250 feet.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a parking fee of $7 per vehicle.
Maps: For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Gualala.
Directions: From Gualala, drive south on Highway 1 for 0.25 mile (over the Gualala River) and turn west into the park entrance. Continue to the visitors center.
Contact: Gualala Point Regional Park, Gualala, CA 95445, 707/785-2377, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
5.2 mi/2.0 hr
at Lake Sonoma northwest of Healdsburg
This trail provides the best introduction to Lake Sonoma, unless, that is, you have a boat and take advantage of the boat-in campsites. The Southlake Trail starts off of Stewart’s Point Road below the Overlook. The short trail at the Overlook provides spectacular views of the lake. But that’s what you get on this trail almost the entire way. The trail winds along the southwestern portion of Warm Springs Arm through gray pine and madrone woodlands. It traces alongside the lake, enters and exits a series of small groves, and extends along the lake’s fingers. At 2.7 miles, you’ll reach Quicksilver Campground—it’s the easiest hike to any lakeside campground at Lake Sonoma. A few trails bisect the route and extend into more-remote surrounding country, allowing ambitious hikers to create longer adventures. When you’ve had enough, just turn back.
The trail is not very steep, but does have some changes in elevation. It features sun exposure, making it great for wildflowers in the spring but very hot on summer afternoons. Most of the habitat is oak grasslands, and on rare occasion you may see deer, and in summer, rattlesnakes.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free map, go to the visitors center or contact the U.S. Corps of Engineers. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Warm Springs Dam.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north for 12 miles to the exit for Healdsburg and Dry Creek Road. Take that exit, turn left on Dry Creek Road and drive about 11 miles (crossing Dry Creek; Dry Creek Road becomes Skaggs Springs Road; continue past visitors center) to Skaggs Springs-Stewarts Point Road. Turn left and drive 0.25 mile to a trailhead spur road. Turn right and drive a short distance to the trailhead on the left.
Contact: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Lake Sonoma, Geyserville, 707/431-4590; visitors center 707/431-4533, www.spn.usace.army.mil.
3.5 mi/1.5 hr
in Salt Point State Park north of Jenner
The dramatic, rocky shoreline of Salt Point State Park is memorable to anyone who has seen it. This trail provides the best look at it, including some simply awesome views from a 100-foot-high ocean bluff. The trailhead is at the parking area set near the tip of Salt Point. From here, hike north over Warren Creek, a seasonal stream, and then continue across the bluffs. You can practically feel the crashing of ocean breakers below you, the spray rocketing skyward. The trail eventually winds around and down to Stump Beach Cove, a pretty, sandy beach where the calm waters are in sharp contrast to the nearby mauling ocean breakers. Salt Point State Park is known for excellent sport abalone diving in season, and also for providing a marine reserve, Gerstle Cove, where no form of marine life may be taken or disturbed. This park is stellar.
Salt Point Bluff Trail
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses are allowed on designated trails only, and mountain bikes are allowed only on fire roads. One trail (Gerstle Cove) is paved for wheelchairs for 100 yards out to Salt Point. No dogs.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Salt Point State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Plantation.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Turn right on Highway 116 and drive to Highway 1 at Jenner. Turn north on Highway 1 and drive 20 miles (nine miles past Fort Ross) to the park entrance. Turn left (west) and drive to the entrance kiosk. The trailhead is at the Salt Point parking area.
Contact: Salt Point State Park, Jenner, 707/847-3221, www.parks.ca.gov.
4.0 mi/2.5 hr
in Salt Point State Park north of Jenner
Fisk Mill Cove is a beautiful spot at Salt Point State Park. It provides a great whale-watching spot. The best strategy is to enter the trail at the north end and then venture to the wooden deck at Sentinel Rock. Take in the sweeping views across the ocean and below to Fisk Mill Cove. From here, the trail ventures south two miles to Stump Beach Cove. When you roam about at the park, always keep an eye out. On the coastal bluffs, this is one of the better locations anywhere for a chance to see a badger.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses are allowed on designated trails only, and mountain bikes are allowed only on fire roads. No dogs.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Salt Point State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Plantation.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Turn right on Highway 116 and drive to Highway 1 at Jenner. Turn north on Highway 1 and drive 20 miles (nine miles past Fort Ross) to the park entrance. Continue north (past main park entrance on your left) for about three miles to signed parking area on left for Sentinel Rock (and on right for Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve). Turn left to parking and trailhead.
Contact: Salt Point State Park, Jenner, 707/847-3221, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.25 mi/0.75 hr
in Stillwater Cove Regional Park north of Jenner
The trailhead is located at the day-use parking lot, and after starting the walk, you’ll enter a gorgeous forest of firs and redwoods. You then come to the Loop Trail junction, where you turn right. The trail is then routed along the creek, crosses a few bridges, and eventually rises above the watershed and loops back through forest to the parking area. It’s an easy, pretty, and secluded loop hike.
Must-do side trip: Cross Highway 1 to see Stillwater Cove, a dramatic rock-strewn shore. Highway 1 is one of the top tourist drives in the United States, which explains why the coastal state parks get such heavy use in the summer months. This little regional park, however, is sometimes overlooked by out-of-state traffic.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A day-use fee of $7 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: For a free brochure, contact Stillwater Cove Regional Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Plantation.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Go right on Highway 116 and drive to Highway 1. Turn right and head north, past the town of Jenner, for 16 miles to the park entrance, on the right at mile marker 37.01.
Contact: Stillwater Cove Regional Park, County of Sonoma, Santa Rosa, 707/847-3245; Regional Parks Department, 707/565-2041, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
1.5 mi/1.0 hr
on the Sonoma coast west of Bodega Bay
Pick a calm, clear evening with scarcely a breeze and the view here at sunset can be so poignant that it can touch your heart at the memories of all the things you’ve let slip through your fingers. It’s that kind of place. The short loop hike at Bodega Head will provide an introduction to one of California’s great coastal areas for an easy hike and views that can set off feelings that you will never forget. The trail starts at the east parking lot, and in just 1.5 miles, you get views of cliffs and untouched beaches. And then it is on southward for views of the sea and beyond. For a side trip, take a short tromp on a spur trail to the tip-top of Bodega Head for 360-degree views. Rarely does the ocean seem so vast as it does here. The North Farallon Island looks like you could reach it with a running leap. A few notes about the weather: In spring and early summer, the wind can really howl out of the northwest. In late summer, fall, or late winter, between storms, Bodega Bay gets its warmest, and often most wind-free, weather. Whale-watching is great from January through April. But it’s the sunsets here that you’ll never forget.
User Groups: Hikers only. No horses, dogs, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A trail map and brochure are available for a fee from Sonoma Coast State Beach.
Directions: Take U.S. 101 to Petaluma and the exit for East Washington. Take that exit to East Washington. Turn west and drive through Petaluma (it becomes Bodega Avenue) for about 10 miles to Valley Ford Road. Bear right and drive 7.5 miles to Highway 1. Turn north on Highway 1 and drive nine miles to Bodega Bay and continue to East Shore Road. Turn left on East Shore Road and drive less than 0.5 mile to a stop sign at Bay Flat Road. Turn right and drive five miles around Bodega Bay (the road turns into West Side Road). Continue past Spud Point Marina and drive to the Bodega Head parking area.
Contact: Sonoma Coast State Beach, Bodega Bay, 707/875-3483, www.parks.ca.gov.
8.0 mi/4.0 hr
north of Lake Berryessa
You climb 2,100 feet in four miles to gain the ridge at Fiske Peak. In the process, your pay-off is a fantastic view into the Cache Creek Canyon, Capay Valley, and to the county’s peaks. The hike starts along Rayhouse Road/Road 40 (see directions). It starts as a road a short ways to a sign for the Blue Ridge Trail. Thus your adventure begins, and in turn, so does the climb. It’s an aerobic thumper for three miles to the ridge; Fiske Peak isn’t really much of a peak, and you have to continue about 15 minutes to find it. The Blue Ridge climbs the hilltop rim that splits Yolo and Napa Counties. In spring wildflowers are ablaze and bushes and trees in full bloom, and clear skies provide long-distance views. You’ll see songbirds, swallows, falcons, and eagles flitting, hovering, and soaring. There is also a good share of lizards and rattlesnakes.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Horses and mountain bikes, while allowed, aren’t recommended because of the steep, rocky terrain. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a free primitive trail map, contact the Bureau of Land Management. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Glascock.
Directions: From Sacramento, take I-5 north to Woodland and the exit for Highway 16. Take that exit, turn west on Highway 16 and drive about 45 miles (into the Capay Valley along Cache Creek) to County Road 40 (near Yolo County Park). Turn left on County Road 40 (a gravel road) and drive 0.25 mile and look for a concrete bridge (low water crossing). Continue over the bridge and drive 200 yards and look for the trailhead on the left. Park in the unpaved area near Cache Creek and walk down the dirt road through a meadow to the trailhead. In the winter, the dirt road is blocked by a locked gate; park instead at Lower Yolo County Park and walk down to the trailhead. Note that during the winter, the bridge is at times impassable due to high water.
Contact: Bureau of Land Management, Ukiah Field Office, Ukiah, 707/468-4000, www.ca.blm.gov.
8.9 mi/1 day
in Austin Creek State Recreation Area north of Guerneville
The Gilliam Creek Trail is very pretty in late winter and spring. For much of the route, the trail parallels Gilliam Creek amid shaded oak woodlands. The area has more of a wilderness feel than most parks in this habitat because you drive through redwoods to get here, and in addition, the final 2.5 miles of access road is narrow and twisty. The trailhead elevation is 1,100 feet. You contour across the slope, then drop down to the headwaters of Schoolhouse Creek, at 400 feet. The trail then follows the stream, past the confluence with Gilliam Creek, and extends 3.7 miles into the backcountry, all the way down to an elevation of 200 feet. At the confluence of East Austin Creek, the best way to do it is to turn right and hike deeper into wild, hilly country along the stream. Then return on the loop on East Austin Creek Trail, a fire road with a—yep, by now you should have figured this out—long climb. At this point, you may ask, "Are we having fun yet?" Visitors who love Armstrong Redwoods tend not to speak of the adjoining Austin Creek Recreation Area with any terms of endearment.
The rolling hills, open forests, and streamside riparian habitat in Austin Creek State Recreation Area can seem a million miles away from the forests of Armstrong Redwoods. Yet the two parks together actually form 6,488 acres of contiguous parkland. While most tourists are walking around the redwoods at Armstrong, this trail offers a quiet and ambitious alternative.
User Groups: Hikers and horses (no horses permitted during wet weather). Mountain bikes permitted on fire roads. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle. A senior discount is available.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Guerneville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Turn right on Highway 116 and drive a short distance to Armstrong Woods Road. Turn right (north) on Armstrong Woods Road and drive into Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve entrance, then continue about four miles into adjoining Austin Creek Recreation Area and to the trailhead. The last 2.5 miles are twisty and narrow; no trailers or vehicles more than 20 feet long are permitted.
Contact: Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve, Guerneville, 707/869-2015, www.parks.ca.gov.
6.8 mi/4.0 hr
in Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve north of Guerneville
The East Ridge Trail rises 1,400 feet over the course of 3.4 miles. Your reward is a series of lookouts over the top of a sea of redwoods below. The trailhead is at an elevation of 200 feet, adjacent to Fife Creek. The route climbs gradually at first, then in the first 0.5 mile rises to cross the headwaters of Fife Creek, at an elevation of 600 feet. Your climb has only just begun, and if you’re already running out of gas, you’d best head back. The trail continues climbing all the way, contouring its way up toward McCray Mountain (1,940 feet), and tops out at a service road at 1,600 feet.
For short strolls through the park’s redwoods, take the Discovery Trail or Armstrong Nature Trail in Armstrong Redwoods.
User Groups: Hikers and horses. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle. A senior discount is available.
Maps: A trail map is available for a fee from Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Guerneville.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take U.S. 101 north to the exit for River Road. Take that exit, turn left on River Road and drive 13 miles to Highway 116 and Guerneville. Go right on Highway 116 and drive a short distance to Armstrong Woods Road. Turn right (north) on Armstrong Woods Road and drive 2.5 miles to the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve entrance. The trailhead is adjacent to the visitors center.
Contact: Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, Guerneville, 707/869-2015, www.parks.ca.gov.
10.2 mi/4.5 hr
in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park north of Calistoga
Mount St. Helena is Sonoma County’s highest mountain. This is the peak that strikes such a memorable silhouette when viewed from the Bay Area. This trail climbs to the 4,343-foot summit and requires an ascent of 2,068 feet over the course of five miles. On the crystal days of early spring, the views can make life seem complete. On the best days, 150 miles to the east, you can see the snow glisten white on the Sierra Crest. Closer to home, Mount Tamalapis and Mount Diablo rise up to the south in the Bay Area. Lake Berryessa is below to the east and the Napa Valley plunges to the south. Several times in the spring, we’ve seen the clear outline of Lassen Peak to the northeast.
The Mount St. Helena trail starts along Highway 29 at the ridge above the Calistoga Valley. From the trailhead, the route emerges from oak woodlands on a dirt service road. The climb is a steady pull, with two steep spots. Four miles in, continue straight at a junction to the North Peak (a left will take you instead to 4,003-foot South Peak).
Strong hikers will make the summit in about 2.5 to 3 hours, with the last half hour strenuous, and then for the easy return trip, sail down in about 1.5 to 2 hours. In spring, bring a windbreaker for often chilly breezes out of the north on top, and a change of shirt; you will likely sweat through whatever you are wearing on the climb, especially if you carry a pack.
Visibility is best in spring, when north winds clear the air, showcasing remarkable views in all directions. Bill Grummer, a ranger pal, claims that on the best days visitors can see Mount Shasta (192 miles away), but so far we haven’t had that experience. However, it is documented that in the late 19th century, surveyors sent signals back and forth between here and Mount Shasta, setting a record for longest signal distance. On other stellar days, you can see the Farallon Islands, 25 miles offshore from San Francisco, and a glimpse of the city itself (but not the Golden Gate Bridge).
History lesson: The park is named “Robert Louis Stevenson State Park” because in 1880, this is where Stevenson, the author of Treasure Island, spent his summer honeymoon in a cabin (long since gone). The cabin site is off a spur (hikers only), 1.5 miles in, marked along the trail to the top.
In the summer, the hike can be pure hell: Much of the trail is actually a fire road with little shade, there’s no water anywhere along the route, and the heat commonly blazes in the 90s and 100s out here.
After logging weather records for years, we have found the most likely time for Mount St. Helena to receive snow is just before a full moon in February.
User Groups: Hikers only on single-track trail. Mountain bikes allowed on a nearby fire road 0.25 mile north on Highway 29. No dogs or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and map are available at the park for a fee. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Detert Reservoir and Mount St. Helena.
Directions: From Calistoga, take Highway 29 north for eight miles to the parking area at the highway summit, signed Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. The trailhead is next to the parking area. You can park on the east or west side of the road. The trail is located on the west side of the road (the trailhead is not signed from the road).
Contact: Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, c/o Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, 707/942-4575; www.parks.ca.gov; Calistoga info, 866/306-5588, www.visitcalistoga.com.
4.0-9.5 mi one-way/2.0-4.0 hr
near Calistoga
This trip can be done three ways: A 4-mile round-trip to Table Rock and back, an 8-mile round-trip to the southern edge of the Palisades and back (recommended), or a wild 9.5-mile one-way trek (with a shuttle car) down to the valley. The Palisades? Aren’t the Palisades a glacier-carved series of 14,000-foot peaks in the Sierra Nevada? Well, yep, but Napa County’s Palisades are nearly as dramatic and accessible year-round: It’s a stunning, mile-long volcanic wall set along a ridge that overlooks Calistoga and the Napa Valley. The Palisades are dramatic up close and personal, and provide gorgeous long-distance views. In addition, this trail is one of the best near Calistoga for seeing raptors, including a chance to spot peregrine falcons, and also for wildflowers, particularly bitterroot.
From Calistoga, it’s a twisty, eight-mile drive up Highway 29 to the parking area and trailhead, the same staging area used for the Mount St. Helena Trail. It is signed Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. To hike to Table Rock and the Palisades, the trailhead is on the right (southeast) side of the road.
From the southeast side of the parking area (elevation 2,250 feet), you start this hike on the Table Rock Trail. It’s about two miles to Table Rock (2,465 feet), just enough of a climb to get you above the canyon woodlands. Some enjoy the views from atop Table Rock, have a picnic, and then head back to the car. But the trip gets better by continuing on the Palisades Trail. This drops down to Lasky Point (2,045 feet), and then climbs back up for about two miles along the base of the Palisades (2,930 feet). The trail is spectacular, set just beneath the sheer volcanic cliffs along the ridge. At 3.9 miles in, you will reach the junction of Historic Oat Hill Mine Road, a long-abandoned, rocky jeep road. Most people turn around and head back from here.
Oat Hill Mine Road is the route down to the valley for a one-way hike with a shuttle. But it plummets 2,000 feet over 4.5 miles, some of it rocky, and can be a thigh-burning, knee-wrenching, toe-jamming experience that’s only for the deranged (like us, for instance).
Calistoga is one of the best decompression chambers designed by mankind. But after a day or two of getting turned into Jell-O by soaks in steaming mineral water, massages, and mud baths, you can be brought back to life by the electrifying hike to the Palisades.
The best time for this getaway is from mid-March through mid-May, when the foothills are green, the skies are often crystal-clear, and the morning air is still cool. There is no drinking water available anywhere on the trail. Rangers warn not to leave valuables in your car (covering them with a jacket or blanket isn’t enough, either).
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: Parking and access are free.
Maps: A brochure and map are available for a fee at the park or by mail. For topographic maps, ask the USGS for Detert Reservoir and Mount St. Helena.
Directions: From Calistoga, take Highway 29 north for eight miles to the parking area at the highway summit, signed Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. The trailhead is on the right (southeast) side of the road.
Contact: Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, c/o Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, Calistoga, 707/942-4575, www.parks.ca.gov.
4.4 mi/3.0 hr
in Bothe-Napa Valley State Park south of Calistoga
The best way to see the surprise redwoods and pretty creek at Bothe-Napa Valley State Park is on the Coyote Peak/Redwood Trail Loop. Start just past the Ritchey Creek Campground turnoff, near the picnic area. The first 0.5 mile is on the Ritchey Canyon Trail, a very pretty stretch of trail along beautiful Ritchey Creek. Then bear left on the Redwood Trail. You’ll be surrounded by some of the park’s highest stands of redwoods. The trail continues along Ritchey Creek for 0.25 mile, then connects to the Coyote Peak Trail. Take the Coyote Peak Trail, which rises quickly, skirting the northern flank of Coyote Peak. (A short spur trail will take you all the way to the top, elevation 1,170 feet.) Then the trail drops down the other side of the hill and intersects with South Fork Trail, which heads all the way back down to Ritchey Creek. From the trailhead to the end of the hike, the elevation gain is roughly 800 feet, totaling the up-and-downs.
Who ever heard of redwoods in the Napa Valley? Who ever heard of a mountain peak there, too? Only those who also know of Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, which is like an island of wildland in a sea of winery tourist traffic. Bothe-Napa has some of the most easterly stands of coastal redwoods, plus Douglas fir and an excellent lookout from Coyote Peak, all quite a surprise for newcomers. Note that temperatures can be extremely hot in the summer—as high as 105 degrees in unshaded areas—but you’ll find a cool paradise along Ritchey Creek.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses permitted on some designated trails. Mountain bikes allowed on fire roads and designated trails but not on most of this described loop. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park fee of $8 is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A brochure and trail map are available for a fee. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Calistoga.
Directions: From Calistoga, take Highway 29 south for about five miles to the park entrance on the right side of the road. Turn right and drive past the entrance station to just past the Ritchey Creek Campground turnoff (near the picnic area), where there is trailhead parking.
Contact: Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, Calistoga, 707/942-4575, www.parks.ca.gov.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Spring Lake Regional Park in Santa Rosa
Spring Lake is Santa Rosa’s backyard fishing hole, a popular place for trout fishing, an evening picnic, or a short hike. For newcomers, we suggest you take the walk along the west shore of Spring Lake. From the parking area, start this trip by walking along the shore to Spring Lake’s west dam. Then turn left and head into adjoining Howarth Park and on to Lake Ralphine. It’s an easy, enjoyable stroll. The lake is stocked with trout in winter and spring, and it provides a fair fishery for bass in the summer. The lake is fun and quiet, with boats restricted to electric motors; no gas motors are allowed. The elevation is 300 feet, and the trail is mostly level.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Horses are allowed only on designated trails. The park has 2.3 miles of trail that are paved for wheelchair and bicycle use.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a parking fee of $7 per vehicle.
Maps: A free trail map is available from Spring Lake Regional Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Santa Rosa.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take Highway 12 east (it becomes Hoen Avenue) to Newanga Avenue. Turn left on Newanga Avenue and drive 0.5 mile to the park entrance. The various trailheads are well marked and easily accessible from the parking area at the lake.
Contact: Spring Lake Regional Park, c/o Sonoma County Regional Parks, Santa Rosa, 707/539-8092; Sonoma County Regional Parks Department, 707/565-2041, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.
8.2 mi/1 day
in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park north of Sonoma
Bald Mountain, elevation 2,729 feet, overlooks the Napa Valley, with Mount St. Helena to the north. The old mountain is the centerpiece of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, a 4,020-acre park featuring redwoods in the Sonoma Creek watershed, open meadows peppered with oaks on the hilltops, and some chaparral on ridges. On clear days from the summit, you can see portions of the San Francisco Bay Area and then be thankful you’re here instead.
The most ambitious hike in the park is the Bald Mountain Loop, an 8.2-mile trek. The trail starts at the parking lot and then is routed into a loop by linking the Bald Mountain, Gray Pine, Brushy Peaks, and Meadow Trails. Many less-demanding hikes are available in the park, but this route will give hikers the greatest sense of the park’s wildest lands. It’s best hiked in the spring, when the air is still cool, the hills are green, and the wildflowers are in bloom.
There’s a bonus as well: When Sonoma Creek is really flowing, a 25-foot waterfall set in a wooded canyon tumbles downstream from the campground; a short trail is available from the park’s entrance road, located at an unsigned turnout on the road’s shoulder. A more formal route to the waterfall is on Canyon Trail.
User Groups: Hikers only. Horses are allowed on trails in summer and on fire roads in the park in winter. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A state park day-use fee of $8 is charged for each vehicle.
Maps: A trail map and brochure are available for a fee from Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. For a topographic map, ask the USGS for Kenwood.
Directions: From Santa Rosa, take Highway 12 east through Kenwood to Adobe Canyon Road. Turn left on Adobe Canyon Road and drive 3.5 miles to the main park entrance at the end of the road.
Contact: Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, 2605 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, CA 95452, 707/833-5712, www.parks.ca.gov.
8.0 mi/3.5 hr
in Sonoma Mountain Regional Park east of Rohnert Park
From the Ridge Trail on North Sonoma Mountain, you will discover why the newest park in the greater Bay Area can appeal to anybody across the region. Two miles in, you emerge above a hardwood forest for a towering view across Santa Rosa and beyond. To the north is Bennett Valley and Sonoma Valley, backed by a horizon of peaks: Taylor Mountain, Bennett Peak, Hood Mountain, Sugarloaf Ridge, and Mount St. Helena. You’ll never forget it. It will change how you feel how Sonoma County and the wine country.
This new trail was opened in 2015, part of a new stretch of the Bay Ridge Trail, which links North Sonoma Mountain to Jack London State Park. From parking lot to parking lot, you can now complete an eight-mile trek, one-way with a shuttle car. Another highlight is the first public access to the north side of Sonoma Mountain.
To get to the trailhead, you drive out of Petaluma to Penngrove and then to the northern flank of Sonoma Mountain.
The marquee trail is the Ridge Trail, which starts at about 1,000-foot elevation. The trail starts near the South Fork Matanzas Creek, a riparian zone with redwoods and fern understory, always a surprise to newcomers. At the footbridge for the Ridge Trail, two picnic tables are available along Matanzas Creek. About a half-mile in, you get views of nearby fields and beyond to Bennett Peak, and then enter oak woodlands. You then start to climb, about 700 feet over the span of about 1.5 miles, and emerge for sweeping lookouts across Santa Rosa far below and to a ridge-lined horizon with many famous peaks. The silhouette of 4,341-foot Mount St. Helena in the Mayacamas Mountain is the classic landmark for the region. So is Sugarloaf Ridge to the east, the familiar mountain that crowns Sugarloaf Ridge State Park.
As parkland, the headwaters of Matanzas Creek, a surprise grove of redwoods and a large swath of oak woodlands, will now be protected. It will also provide a contiguous wildlife corridor. On the ground, mountain lions and bobcats are at the top of the food chain, and in the air, you might see golden eagles, falcons, and hawks.
User Groups: Hikers and horses only. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A parking fee of $7 is charged each vehicle at a self-pay station; free for Sonoma County Regional Park members.
Maps: Small map available at trailhead kiosk; PDF online at http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/.
Directions: From San Francisco, take U.S. 101 north to Petaluma and continue to the exit for Old Redwood Highway (toward Penngrove). Take that exit to Old Redwood Highway. Turn right and drive 1.5 miles to Petaluma Hill Road. Turn right and drive 2.3 miles to Roberts Road. Turn right and drive 1.3 miles, and continue onto Pressley Road and drive 2.9 miles to Sonoma Mountain Road. Turn right onto Sonoma Mountain Road and continue to park entrance on the right.
Contact: Sonoma County Regional Parks, 707/565-2041, http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov.