This visually stunning coast contains 130 miles of oceanfront drama that runs from Davenport to San Simeon. Largely undeveloped, this region offers rugged cliffs, redwood forests, rock-strewn beaches, and waterfalls.
South of Carmel, services are clustered in Big Sur, Lucia, and Gorda. In between, a string of state parks provide a bounty of trails: Point Lobos State Reserve, Garrapata State Park, Andrew Molera State Park, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, and Limekiln State Park. As you hike these parks’ trails, you have a near guarantee of spotting migrating gray whales or fuzzy sea otters. For a more remote adventure, head to the Ventana Wilderness or Silver Peak Wilderness. Or head inland to Pinnacles National Park, where trails tunnel through volcanic caves and travel over and around craggy rock formations.
2 WILDER RIDGE AND ZANE GREY TRAILS
4 LOMA PRIETA EARTHQUAKE EPICENTER
5 WEST RIDGE AND APTOS CREEK LOOP
6 ELKHORN SLOUGH SOUTH MARSH LOOP
9 SKYLINE NATURE AND JACKS PEAK TRAILS
11 LACE LICHEN TRAIL TO SEA LION POINT
12 WHALER’S KNOLL AND CYPRESS GROVE
14 ROCKY RIDGE AND SOBERANES CANYON LOOP
16 LUPINE, WATERFALL, AND MESA LOOP
18 CONDOR GULCH AND HIGH PEAKS LOOP
22 JUNIPER CANYON AND HIGH PEAKS LOOP
24 SKINNER RIDGE TRAIL TO DEVIL’S PEAK
27 VALLEY VIEW AND PFEIFFER FALLS
31 PARTINGTON POINT AND TANBARK TRAILS
35 LIMEKILN TRAIL AND LIMEKILN FALLS
2.5 mi/1.5 hr
in Wilder Ranch State Park north of Santa Cruz
When you visit Wilder Ranch, you may notice that on some maps and park signs this trail is called Old Cove Landing, while on others it’s called Old Landing Cove. Take your pick. The Old Landing Cove Trail is a gem of a coastal hike that offers a look at a seal rookery, some spectacular pocket beaches, and a hidden fern cave. Although the trail is open to both hikers and mountain bikers, everybody seems to mind their manners and get along fine.
The trail leads past brussels sprouts fields to the coast. An odd but interesting fact is that 12 percent of our nation’s brussels sprouts production happens right here in this park. The trail leads from the main parking lot toward the ocean, then traces along the coastal bluff tops, with farm fields on your right and the dramatic coastline on your left. In short order you reach the trail’s namesake, Old Landing Cove, where small schooners loaded lumber in the late 19th century. A little more walking brings you to the bluffs above the seal rookery, where you look down on huge flat rocks covered with wall-to-wall seals. Finally, near post No. 8, a spur trail leads down to a small beach cove. Follow the spur and you will find on the inland side of the cove a shallow cave filled with ferns from floor to ceiling. A quarter mile past the fern-cave beach is another excellent pocket beach, perfect for picnicking or lying around. Although this is a fine destination for most visitors, you can keep hiking along the bluffs beyond this beach to several more beaches in the next few miles. (The trail’s name changes from Old Landing Cove Trail to Ohlone Bluff Trail.) If you decide to keep going, be forewarned that you might get an anatomy lesson along the way: Both Three-Mile and Four-Mile Beaches often attract nude sunbathers.
User Groups: Hikers and mountain bikes. No horses or dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A free map of Wilder Ranch is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. A more detailed map is available from Pease Press (www.peasepress.com). For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Santa Cruz.
Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive north on Highway 1 for four miles. Turn left into the entrance for Wilder Ranch State Park and follow the park road to its end, at the main parking area. Take the signed trail from the southwest side of the parking lot.
Contact: Wilder Ranch State Park, Santa Cruz, 831/423-9703, www.parks.ca.gov or www.santacruzstateparks.org.
6.0 mi/3.0 hr
in Wilder Ranch State Park north of Santa Cruz
Once you find your way to the hiker/biker tunnel underneath Highway 1 near the farm buildings at Wilder Ranch, you’re on your way to a great six-mile hike with just enough of a climb to give you a workout and a spectacular vista of Monterey Bay. Keep in mind that this side of the park is the domain of mountain bikers—hundreds of them on weekends—but the trails are wide, and there’s plenty of room for everybody. The Wilder Ridge Trail features a 500-foot climb to a coastal overlook. You reach it by exiting the tunnel and heading straight and then uphill on Wilder Ridge, then bearing right on the Wilder Ridge Loop. At about 2.5 miles out, shortly after Twin Oaks Trail forks right, you come to an obvious grassy overlook at the top of the ridge—about 40 feet off the main trail. Enjoy the wide vista, then continue hiking along the ridge top on Wilder Ridge Loop. For an interesting loop, take the Zane Grey cutoff on the left (it’s single track) and then go left again on the other side of the Wilder Ridge Loop.
User Groups: Hikers, horses, and mountain bikes. No dogs. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A free map of Wilder Ranch State Park is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. A more detailed map is available from Pease Press (www.peasepress.com). For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Santa Cruz.
Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive north on Highway 1 for four miles. Turn left into the entrance for Wilder Ranch State Park and follow the park road to its end, at the main parking area. Take the trail signed Nature Trail from the southwest side of the parking lot. Walk down the park road to the Wilder Ranch and Cultural Preserve, then through the cultural preserve to the picnic area and chicken coops, to reach the tunnel that leads underneath Highway 1.
Contact: Wilder Ranch State Park, Santa Cruz, 831/423-9703, www.parks.ca.gov or www.santacruzstateparks.org.
7.0-9.0 mi/4.5 hr
in The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park near Aptos
It’s either a seven- or nine-mile round-trip hike to Maple Falls, and it all depends on whether the park road is gated at Porter Picnic Area, the main trailhead. In winter and spring, the road is usually closed, which means you need to walk an extra mile in each direction in order to see the falls. Winter and spring are the best seasons to go, of course, because that’s when Maple Falls is flowing at its fullest. The trip starts out with an easy walk on Aptos Creek Fire Road, which you’ll share with mountain bikers. Follow it 0.25 mile past Porter Picnic Area, where you turn left on Loma Prieta Grade Trail. The second-growth redwood and Douglas fir forest just keeps getting thicker, greener, and prettier, and the trail turns to sweet single track. Where Loma Prieta Grade splits, stay to the right, heading toward Bridge Creek Historic Site, for the shortest route to the falls. You can take the other side of the Loma Prieta Grade loop on your way back if you still have the energy. When you reach Bridge Creek Historic Site, the site of a former logging camp, the maintained trail ends, and you begin a fun 0.5-mile stream scramble to Maple Falls, following the course of Bridge Creek. The canyon narrows as you travel through a dense green world of ferns, moss, foliage, and water, and at last you reach the back of the canyon, where 30-foot Maple Falls spills over the wall.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs or horses. Mountain bikes allowed only on fire roads. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. An $8 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A free map of The Forest of Nisene Marks is available at the entrance kiosk or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. A more detailed map is available from Pease Press (www.peasepress.com). For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Laurel, Soquel, and Loma Prieta.
Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive south on Highway 1 for six miles to the Aptos/State Park Drive exit. Bear left at the exit, cross over the highway, then turn right on Soquel Drive and drive 0.5 mile. Turn left on Aptos Creek Road. Stop at the entrance kiosk, then continue up the park road and park at Porter Picnic Area. In the winter months, you must park at George’s Picnic Area, a mile before Porter Picnic Area, because the park road is gated off at that point.
Contact: The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park, Watsonville, 831/763-7063 or 831/429-2850, www.parks.ca.gov or www.santacruzstateparks.org.
4.0 mi/2.0 hr
in The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park near Aptos
The destination on this trail is the epicenter of the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, but the pleasure of the trip has little to do with its interesting geological history. Instead, the joy is in the scenery, a lush second-growth redwood forest that regenerated after a clear-cut operation at the end of the 19th century. The hike follows Aptos Creek Fire Road, which leads gently uphill (expect plenty of mountain bikers and joggers on the weekends). At 1.5 miles from the Porter Picnic Area, cross a footbridge and descend a bit on the trail until you come to the spot where a large sign proclaims the proximity of the earthquake epicenter. There’s a small bike rack. Cross the creek and continue up the single-track Aptos Creek Trail for 0.5 mile to the actual epicenter, where you will see surprisingly little evidence of anything earthshaking, but rather a lovely and peaceful redwood forest. Turn around here for a four-mile round-trip (or six miles if you had to start from George’s Picnic Area instead of Porter Picnic Area).
Forest of Nisene Marks State Park
It’s possible, although quite challenging, to hike Five Finger Falls from the epicenter by following Aptos Creek Trail for 4.5 additional miles. This epic hike has long been a favorite of intrepid waterfall lovers, who revel in the chance to see one of the least visited waterfalls in the Santa Cruz mountains. However, almost every winter, this trail is subject to weather-related damage, including landslides and flood-level waters in Aptos Creek. During the rainy months, plan on getting wet feet, as you must walk in the creek where the trail peters out. There is never any guarantee that you will reach your destination when you set out for Five Finger Falls, but nonetheless, this hike remains a beloved challenge for waterfall aficionados.
User Groups: Hikers and mountain bikes (bikers must stay on the fire roads). No dogs or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. An $8 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A free map of the The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park is available at the entrance kiosk or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. A more detailed map is available from Pease Press (www.peasepress.com). For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Laurel, Soquel, and Loma Prieta.
Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive south on Highway 1 for six miles to the Aptos/State Park Drive exit. Bear left at the exit, cross over the highway, then turn right on Soquel Drive and drive 0.5 mile. Turn left on Aptos Creek Road. Stop at the entrance kiosk, then continue up the park road and park at Porter Picnic Area. In the winter months, you must park at George’s Picnic Area, a mile before Porter Picnic Area, because the park road is gated off at that point.
Contact: The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park, Watsonville, 831/763-7063 or 831/429-2850, www.parks.ca.gov or www.santacruzstateparks.org.
12.5 mi/7.0 hr or 2 days
in The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park near Aptos
The West Ridge and Aptos Creek Loop is the grand tour of the Forest of Nisene Marks State Park, suitable only for hikers in good condition and with a lot of time on their hands. An option is to get reservations for West Ridge Trail Camp and turn this into an overnight trip; the camp is situated conveniently near Sand Point Overlook—a great spot for sunsets. (Backpacking stoves are necessary; no campfires are allowed.) From George’s Picnic Area, walk up Aptos Creek Road for 0.25 mile to the left cutoff for West Ridge Trail, and start climbing uphill along the west ridge of Aptos Canyon. (You can also take Loma Prieta Grade Trail if you prefer. Follow the left side of its loop, then take the connector trail to West Ridge Trail.) Finally you ascend all the way to Hinckley Ridge (at 1,300 feet) and meet up with the fire road that leads to West Ridge Trail Camp and Sand Point Overlook. From the overlook at 1,500 feet, you can see down into the densely forested Bridge Creek drainage and far off across sky-blue Monterey Bay. Finish out the loop with a long downhill walk on Aptos Creek Fire Road, a wide path through dense redwoods and Douglas firs.
User Groups: Hikers and mountain bikes. No dogs or horses. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. An $8 day-use fee is charged per vehicle. An advance reservation is necessary to stay overnight at West Ridge Trail Camp; call the park for reservations.
Maps: A free map of The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park is available at the entrance kiosk or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. A more detailed map is available from Pease Press (www.peasepress.com). For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Laurel, Soquel, and Loma Prieta.
Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive south on Highway 1 for six miles to the Aptos/State Park Drive exit. Bear left at the exit, cross over the highway, then turn right on Soquel Drive and drive 0.5 mile. Turn left on Aptos Creek Road. Stop at the entrance kiosk, then continue up the park road and park at George’s Picnic Area.
Contact: The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park, Watsonville, 831/763-7063 or 831/429-2850, www.parks.ca.gov or www.santacruzstateparks.org.
2.5 mi/1.5 hr
near Moss Landing
Elkhorn Slough is 1,400 acres of marsh and tidal flats, the precious borderline between sea and land that is home to thousands of species of birds, fish, and invertebrates. It’s the second-largest salt marsh in California, where birds numbering in the thousands can be seen. Hikers with binoculars (and sometimes with just their own eyes) may spot a long list of species that includes peregrine falcons, American white pelicans, and thousands of shore birds. The South Marsh Loop Trail is a 2.5-mile walking tour of this salty, marshy, bird-filled land, crossing footbridges over the slough and staying close to mudflats and the water’s edge. Make sure you take all the spurs off the loop, including the short walk to Hummingbird Island, which sits right on the edge of the main channel of the Slough.
Note: The reserve is open Wednesday through Sunday from 9am-5pm. Guided tours are available on Saturday and Sunday.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. Several boardwalks and overlook areas are wheelchair accessible.
Permits: No permits are required. A $4 entrance fee is charged per adult. Children under 16 and anyone in possession of a California fishing or hunting license may enter free.
Maps: A map of Elkhorn Slough is available at the visitors center and online. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Moss Landing.
Directions: From Highway 1 at Moss Landing, turn east on Dolan Road by the PG&E power station. Drive three miles to Elkhorn Road, turn left (north), and drive two miles to the reserve entrance. The trail begins by the visitors center.
Contact: Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve, Watsonville, 831/728-2822, www.elkhornslough.org.
0.6 mi/0.5 hr
in Fremont Peak State Park near San Juan Bautista
Fremont Peak State Park is a small park with a big view. There are only five miles of hiking trails here, including the most popular 0.6-mile trail to the summit of Fremont Peak (elevation 3,169 feet). But that one little trip packs one heck of a punch. Pick a clear day in winter or spring (summer gets brutally hot, and the visibility can be worse) to make the narrow and winding drive from San Juan Bautista, and prepare to witness a panorama of Monterey Bay, Santa Cruz, Salinas, Watsonville, Hollister, and the Santa Lucia Mountains. From the southwest parking area, walk up the gated, paved service road for several yards, and then cut off to the right on the signed Peak Trail, which winds its way up the mountain. The last 50 yards is very rocky, and the final summit climb is a bit of a scramble. Ignore the close-by radio transmitters, and check out the far-off views.
Another popular activity at the park is stargazing. Fremont Peak Observatory is open to the public on Saturday nights from April to October when there is no moon, and observatory members hold astronomy programs here. Visit the FPOA website for a program schedule, www.fpoa.net.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $6 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Fremont Peak State Park is available at the entrance kiosk. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download San Juan Bautista.
Directions: From Gilroy, drive south on U.S. 101 for 11 miles to the Highway 156 East/San Juan Bautista exit. Turn east on Highway 156 and drive three miles to San Juan Bautista. Then turn right (south) on the Alameda and then right on San Juan Canyon Road. (It’s signed for the state park.) Follow it 11 miles to its end in Fremont Peak State Park. Park in the southwest parking area.
Contact: Fremont Peak State Park, San Juan Bautista, 831/623-4255, www.parks.ca.gov; Fremont Peak Observatory, 831/623-2465, www.fpoa.net.
2.4 mi/1.5 hr
in Pacific Grove
Even if you aren’t lucky enough to attend a conference at the historic Asilomar Conference Center, you can still walk its adjoining Asilomar Coast Trail, a spectacular 1.2-mile trail along coastal bluffs above rugged, windswept Asilomar Beach. There’s plenty to look at and many side trails to explore. You’ll see waves crashing against jagged rocks, plentiful tidepools, tiny pocket beaches, wide sandy stretches with big white dunes, and much sea life. Be sure to take the separate boardwalk trail (on the west side of the conference center) that leads across the dunes. Kite flying is also popular along some stretches of Asilomar Beach.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. Portions of the trail are wheelchair-accessible.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Monterey.
Directions: From Salinas on U.S. 101, take the Highway 68/Monterey exit and drive 15 miles into Monterey. Continue into Pacific Grove, where Highway 68 becomes Sunset Drive. Continue to Asilomar State Beach. Park alongside Sunset Drive; the trail begins opposite the conference center.
Contact: Asilomar State Beach, Pacific Grove, 831/646-6440, www.parks.ca.gov.
1.2 mi/0.5 hr
in Jacks Peak County Park near Monterey
At 1,068 feet, Jacks Peak is the highest point on the Monterey Peninsula. Hey, it’s not the High Sierra, but this summit is still worthy of a hike. The peak and its surrounding park are named after David Jacks, the guy who got his name on Monterey Jack cheese. The Skyline Nature Trail is an easy loop walk around the summit of Jacks Peak, set amid a dense forest of Monterey pines. The Jacks Peak Trail is a smaller loop inside Skyline Nature Trail loop, and you can easily branch off the latter to join the former for a half-hour walk that provides unparalleled views of Carmel Valley, the Monterey Peninsula, Point Lobos, the Santa Lucia Mountains, and the Pacific Ocean. That’s on a clear day, of course, which is not every day in Monterey. Even though the view is about the same on both trail loops, make sure you walk a leg of Jacks Peak Trail to the top of Jacks Peak, where you can sit on a bench and pull out a picnic of Jack cheese sandwiches. Don’t plan on watching the sun set from here, though; unfortunately the park closes before then.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. No horses or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $5 entrance fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A free map of Jacks Peak County Park is available at the entrance station. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Seaside.
Directions: From Monterey, take Highway 68 east from Highway 1 for 1.7 miles to Olmsted Road. Turn right on Olmsted Road and drive 1.5 miles to Jacks Peak Drive, then follow Jacks Peak Drive to the park entrance. After passing through the entrance kiosk, turn right and drive to the parking area for Jacks Peak.
Contact: Jacks Peak County Park, Monterey, 888/588-2267, www.co.monterey.ca.us/parks.
7.5 mi/3.5 hr
in Toro County Park near Monterey
Pick a cool day in spring to take this inspiring jaunt to the top of Ollason Peak, elevation 1,800 feet, high up and far away from the madding crowds of popular Toro County Park. Even with a cool breeze, Ollason Trail can be a butt-kicker, with many steep sections over a less-than-smooth route. It leads from the Quail Meadow Group Picnic Area and climbs through wide grasslands and occasional oak groves, most of the time on a wide double-track trail. Increasingly wide views and an excellent variety of grassland wildflowers are your reward for the work. After a long stint heading southwest, the trail suddenly veers east, then resumes its southern course for the final climb to Ollason Peak, four miles from the trailhead. You get lovely views toward Monterey Bay and the Central Valley from the summit, plus a set of rugged-looking peaks to the east. Retrace your steps from there or continue a little farther to Coyote Spring Trail, bearing left for a 7.5-mile loop. If you’re making the loop, be sure to watch for the left turnoff on Cougar Ridge from Coyote Spring, which returns you to a connector trail back to Quail Meadow.
User Groups: Hikers and dogs. Mountain bikes and horses allowed on only a portion of the trail. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. An $8 entrance fee is charged per vehicle ($10 on holidays).
Maps: A free map of Toro County Park is available at the entrance station. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Spreckels.
Directions: From Monterey, take Highway 68 east from Highway 1 for 13 miles to the Portola Drive exit. Turn right into the Toro County Park entrance road. Drive 0.5 mile past the entrance kiosk to the parking area by Quail Meadow Group Picnic Area.
Contact: Toro County Park, Salinas, 831/484-1108, www.co.monterey.ca.us/parks.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Point Lobos State Reserve near Carmel
On summer weekends, the cars are parked in a long line along the road outside Point Lobos State Reserve, one of the crown jewels of the state park system, which sees more than 550,000 visitors each year. Even on weekdays, the parking lots are often full, but the reserve’s stunning coastal beauty and plentiful wildlife explain why. Point Lobos also holds a claim to literary fame—Robert Louis Stevenson used this rocky coast as the inspiration for his novel Treasure Island.
One of the best destinations at Point Lobos is Sea Lion Point, where you can look for cute little sea otters floating on their backs in the kelp beds and chubby harbor seals and sea lions hauling out on the rocks. The best way to reach the point is by hiking the Lace Lichen Trail from the park entrance kiosk, which roughly parallels the park road. Extended and improved in 2015, this wheelchair-accessible trail saves you the hassle of driving through the reserve and fighting for a parking spot. The trail is named for the gray-green lichen that many call “old man’s beard,” which hangs from the branches of Monterey pines and coast live oaks. The lace lichen is not a parasite and does not harm the trees; in fact, it helps the trees to retain moisture. You’ll see plenty of it as you head toward Sea Lion Point. Once you arrive, you’ll be caught up in the spectacle of hundreds of blubbery pinnipeds hauled out on the rocks and on the beaches. In the last few years, the stairs to the lower point have been closed because the seals and sea lions have been coming to shore in such large numbers that they are now using every inch of available real estate. Some biologists believe that the pinnipeds are establishing a permanent colony here, much like they have at Año Nuevo and San Simeon.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. Part of the trail is wheelchair-accessible.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Point Lobos State Reserve is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Monterey.
Directions: From Carmel at Rio Road, drive south on Highway 1 for three miles to the entrance to Point Lobos State Reserve, on the right. Turn right and drive through the entrance kiosk, and continue straight to the information station and Sea Lion Point parking area.
Contact: Point Lobos State Reserve, Carmel, 831/624-4909, www.pointlobos.org.
3.0 mi/2.0 hr
in Point Lobos State Reserve near Carmel
Two excellent trails lead from the north side of the Sea Lion Point parking area near the information station at Point Lobos, and you can connect them to make a stellar three-mile round-trip. Start by hiking on Cypress Grove Trail, which shows off the park’s Monterey cypress trees, one of only two remaining native Monterey cypress groves on earth. (The other grove is across Carmel Bay at Cypress Point.) In addition to getting a look at these gnarled, windswept trees, you also walk through coastal scrub to rocky cliffs with picture-perfect ocean views. The trail loops around and heads back toward the parking area, but just before you reach it, you can turn left on North Shore Trail and climb a bit to the right turnoff for Whaler’s Knoll Trail. Whaler’s Knoll Trail makes loose switchbacks uphill to the top of Whaler’s Knoll, a bluff top that provides the best view in the park. Early twentieth-century whale spotters used this high knoll to scan the seas for the spouts of whales. When they spotted them, they would hang a signal flag, alerting the whaling boats to head out to sea. From Whaler’s Knoll, head downhill and make a loop along the coast on North Shore Trail.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Point Lobos State Reserve is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Monterey.
Directions: From Carmel at Rio Road, drive south on Highway 1 for three miles to the entrance to Point Lobos State Reserve on the right. Turn right and drive through the entrance kiosk and continue straight to the information station and Sea Lion Point parking area.
Contact: Point Lobos State Reserve, Carmel, 831/624-4909, www.pointlobos.org.
6.0 mi/3.0 hr
in Point Lobos State Reserve near Carmel
The perimeter hike at Point Lobos connects a number of trails to view some of the park’s best highlights. Make sure you get a map at the entrance station so you can scope out the many side-trip options that are possible (and the many shortcuts if you’re getting tired). Starting from the Sea Lion Point parking area, make your first destination Sea Lion Point. Then bear left on Sand Hill Trail and connect to South Shore Trail. The latter leads along the quieter, south part of the park, past numerous spectacular beaches and coves, to the wheelchair-accessible Bird Island Trail. Make sure you take the short side path to Bird Island Overlook, then walk the stairs down to Gibson Beach. (You may be tempted to visit emerald-green China Cove, which is arguably one of the most beautiful beaches on the California Coast, but it has been closed to the public since 2014 due to concerns about wildlife protection, and is unlikely to reopen any time soon. Please obey all posted signs.) From Bird Island Trail, connect with South Plateau Trail, follow it northward, cross the park road to follow Carmelo Meadow Trail, and bear right for a side trip to Granite Point. Don’t miss this; it’s a rocky outcrop on a short loop trail with great views toward Carmel to the north. Then retrace your steps along Granite Point Trail and finish out your loop by walking along the park’s northern shoreline, following Granite Point Trail to Cabin Trail to North Shore Trail. Other possible side trips include the Whaler’s Cabin cultural history museum (the cabin was built by Chinese fishermen and its foundation is made of whale bones), a lookout of Guillemot Island and its millions of birds (from a spur trail), or Whaler’s Knoll and Cypress Grove. If you take all of the possible side trips along the route, this hike will take you almost all day—and what a fine day it will be.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. Wheelchair users can travel on the Bird Island Trail.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Point Lobos State Reserve is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Monterey.
Directions: From Carmel at Rio Road, drive south on Highway 1 for three miles to the entrance to Point Lobos State Reserve on the right. Turn right and drive through the entrance kiosk; continue straight to the information station and Sea Lion Point parking area.
Contact: Point Lobos State Reserve, Carmel, 831/624-4909, www.pointlobos.org.
7.0 mi/3.5 hr
in Garrapata State Park south of Carmel
Garrapata State Park is situated on both sides of Highway 1, with some trails leading to the ocean and others leading up inland canyons and hillsides. Hikers looking for a long, heart-pumping walk will enjoy this loop trip on the inland side of the park, which travels through a remarkable variety of terrain. In spring, the wildflower display along these coastal hills will blow you away. Both the number and variety of species is truly remarkable.
Begin hiking on Soberanes Canyon Trail. What starts out as a ranch road through cactus- and chaparral-covered hillsides quickly becomes single-track trail through an increasingly narrow and wet canyon. The big surprise is a gorgeous stand of redwoods along Soberanes Creek, an extreme contrast to the chaparral and cacti at the start of the trail. The grove is a good turnaround spot for those looking for a short, easy trip. If you continue on, the trail begins a substantial ascent with not nearly enough switchbacks; after the initial easy grade of this trail, this stretch comes as a major surprise for many hikers. The trail then travels north to meet up with Peak Trail heading right, which leads to 1,977-foot Doud Peak, and Rocky Ridge Trail heading left. In case you are wondering why you are so out of breath, you’ve just climbed 1,850 feet in just under three miles. Unless you are feeling an irresistible urge to bag Doud Peak, turn left and finish out your loop on Rocky Ridge Trail, where on a clear day you can look out over the ocean for miles. The trail then winds back down the hillsides and deposits you back at your car on Highway 1.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A map of Garrapata State Park is available for free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Soberanes Point.
Directions: From Carmel at Rio Road, drive south on Highway 1 for seven miles to mile marker 13 and the dirt pullouts along the highway at Garrapata State Park. It’s four miles south of Point Lobos State Park and easy to miss; go slowly and watch for cars parked alongside the road. The Soberanes Canyon Trail begins on the east side of the road.
Contact: Garrapata State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
2.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Garrapata State Park south of Carmel
You can access Soberanes Point Trail from three different gates along Highway 1, so if you miss mile marker 13, you can always stop at markers 15 or 16. Wherever you begin, you’ll end up on a spectacular and easy set of trails that joins in a series of loops around Soberanes Point, all basically around Whale Peak. If you time your trip at low tide, you’ll have access to some excellent tidepools, and even if not, you have views of rocky shoreline bluffs and plenty of birdlife and other animals. Many anglers try their luck rock fishing here at the point, and it’s also a popular spot for whale-watching from November to January. Note that if you start from mile marker 13, you can hike a short loop to your right and then a much larger loop to your left. If you start from mile marker 15, you’re at the middle of the larger loop, so you can start hiking either right or left. Just wander as you please; the coastline and the perimeter of the point make it impossible to get lost.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A map of Garrapata State Park is available for free download at www.parks.ca.gov. No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Soberanes Point.
Directions: From Carmel at Rio Road, drive south on Highway 1 for seven miles to mile marker 13 and the dirt pullouts along the highway at Garrapata State Park. It’s four miles south of Point Lobos State Park and easy to miss; go slowly and watch for cars parked alongside the road. The Soberanes Point Trail begins on the east side of the road.
Contact: Garrapata State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
3.2 mi/1.5 hr
in Garland Ranch Regional Park near Carmel
Garland Ranch’s excellent visitors center is the perfect place to begin your trip to this 4,500-acre park. Take a look inside, get a trail map, and learn a few things about the area’s animals, trees, and wildflowers. The center is also the trailhead for this combined loop on Lupine, Waterfall, and Mesa Trails. Although the park’s waterfall flows only during the wettest of rainy seasons, its well maintained trails are good to walk year-round. Begin by heading to the left (southeast) from the visitors center on Lupine Loop, which travels along the open, flat floodplains of the Carmel River. In 0.5 mile, leave the loop and continue straight on the Waterfall Trail, then climb through a more shady area to the rocky cliff where the waterfall sometimes falls. Beyond it, you’ll ascend more seriously to the mesa, a large high meadow with views of Carmel Valley and beyond. Continuing uphill, 300 feet to the south lies Mesa Pond, which offers year-round fishing for smallmouth bass and bluegill (catch and release only, no fishing license required). Two benches are situated at the pond’s eastern edge. Follow Mesa Trail back downhill to the other side of Lupine Loop and follow Lupine Loop back to the visitors center. In springtime, expect to be wowed by the wildflower show. They don’t call this “Lupine Loop” for nothing.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A free map of Garland Ranch Regional Park is available by download at www.mprpd.org. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Mount Carmel and Carmel Valley.
Directions: From Highway 1 at Carmel, turn east on Carmel Valley Road. Drive 8.6 miles on Carmel Valley Road to the Garland Ranch parking area, on the right side of the road. From late spring to fall, you can walk across the river bridge from the parking lot to access the trails. In the winter months when the bridge is removed, walk 300 feet west of the parking lot and cross the vehicle bridge.
Contact: Garland Ranch Regional Park Visitor Center, 831/659-6065; Monterey Peninsula Regional Park District, Monterey, 831/659-4488 (ranger station) or 831/372-3196 (administrative office), www.mprpd.org.
5.6 mi/3.0 hr
in Garland Ranch Regional Park near Carmel
If it’s winter or spring, a trip to the top of Snivley’s Ridge could be just what you need to keep your hiking legs in shape. It’s a healthy, 1,600-foot climb up to the ridge, plus a 250-foot climb to get to the ridge’s highest point, so be prepared to pant a little. Much of the walk is exposed; be sure to bring water, and pick a cool day to hike the trail. From the visitors center, set out on either side of Lupine Loop (heading left is a little shorter), and continue uphill on Mesa Trail to its junction with Fern Trail. This stretch is moist and shady, so enjoy it while you can. Follow Fern Trail as it steeply ascends, turn left on Sage Trail and then right on Sky Trail, and continue to climb. Well-graded switchbacks make it easier. Many people stop where Sky Trail meets Snivley’s Ridge Trail, at a bench with a panoramic view of Carmel Valley, the forested Santa Lucia Mountains, and the ocean. But those determined to go as high as possible should turn right on Snivley’s Ridge Trail and walk another 0.75 mile west to the ridge with its spectacular views of Carmel Bay and the Monterey Peninsula. Turn left on the trail that leads to the park’s highest point at 2,038 feet. Note that if you want to get to this high point via a slightly longer but less steep route, you can follow Mesa Trail all the way to Sky Trail and bypass the steep Fern Trail.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A free map of Garland Ranch Regional Park is available by download at www.mprpd.org. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Mount Carmel and Carmel Valley.
Directions: From Highway 1 at Carmel, turn east on Carmel Valley Road. Drive 8.6 miles on Carmel Valley Road to the Garland Ranch parking area, on the right side of the road. From late spring to fall, you can walk across the river bridge from the parking lot to access the trails. In the winter months when the bridge is removed, walk 300 feet west of the parking lot and cross the vehicle bridge.
Contact: Garland Ranch Regional Park Visitor Center, 831/659-6065; Monterey Peninsula Regional Park District, Monterey, 831/659-4488 (ranger station) or 831/372-3196 (administrative office), www.mprpd.org.
5.3 mi/3.0-5.0 hr
in Pinnacles National Park near Soledad
The Condor Gulch Trail begins across the road from the Bear Gulch Nature Center, and it’s a good 30-minute climb up the hill on a smooth, winding trail to an overlook of High Peaks. Starting early is recommended, especially in warmer temperatures, since this trail is exposed and can get extremely hot in the afternoons. The scent of wild black sage is enticingly aromatic along the route, and your eyes are continually drawn to the colorful lichens growing on equally colorful rocks. The overlook is a piped railing on a high ledge, and it’s a good spot to look out over the canyon you just climbed. It’s also a good turnaround spot if you don’t want to go farther. If you do, continue uphill for 0.7 mile to a junction with High Peaks Trail and turn left. In just over a half mile, you’ll reach a split in the trail. One path heads toward the steep and narrow section of the High Peaks Trail; the other toward the Tunnel Trail. Here, people who are afraid of heights should consider taking Tunnel Trail downhill. They can then turn left on the Juniper Canyon Trail to meet up with their fellow hikers at a bench and an overlook area at the junction of Juniper Canyon Trail and High Peaks Trail. This adds about one mile to the total mileage of this hike. Those willing to have an adventure should continue on the High Peaks Trail through narrow passageways and over and under the steep rock formations of the High Peaks.
In many places, the trail is a series of steps and handrails that have been carved into the rock. The near-vertical drop-offs appear daunting, but this trail gives an amazing up-close view of the rock formations in addition to chances of seeing falcons or California condors. After 0.7 mile, you’ll reach Scout Peak, where there is a bench, a fine view to the west, and a restroom. Take advantage of any or all of these, then turn left to stay on the High Peaks Trail and head back to Bear Gulch. You’ll have to walk down Moses Spring Trail a short distance to get back to your car. There is an option to add about a mile to this hike by visiting the reservoir and Bear Gulch Cave. That detour takes a right turn at the Rim Trail about 1.5 miles below Scout Peak.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a $15 per vehicle entrance fee, good for seven days, at Pinnacles National Park.
Maps: A free map of Pinnacles National Park is available at the visitors center or by download at www.nps.gov/pinn. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Bickmore Canyon and North Chalone Peak.
Directions: From King City on U.S. 101, take the First Street exit and head east. First Street turns into Highway G13/Bitterwater Road. Follow it for 15 miles to Highway 25, where you turn left (north). Follow Highway 25 for 14 miles to Highway 146. Turn left on Highway 146 and drive 1.9 miles to Pinnacles Visitors Center, then continue another three miles to Bear Gulch Nature Center. The trailhead for the Condor Gulch Trail is across the road from Bear Gulch Nature Center.
Alternatively, from Gilroy, drive south on U.S. 101 for two miles and take the Highway 25 exit. Drive south on Highway 25 for 43 miles to Highway 146. Turn right on Highway 146 and drive 1.9 miles to Pinnacles Visitors Center, then continue another three miles to Bear Gulch Nature Center. The trailhead for the Condor Gulch Trail is across the road from Bear Gulch Nature Center.
Contact: Pinnacles National Park, Paicines, 831/389-4485, www.nps.gov/pinn.
2.2 mi/1.5 hr
in Pinnacles National Park near Soledad
Pinnacles National Park is well loved for its craggy volcanic formations, abundant hiking trails, and challenging rock climbing. But what many visitors come to see is Bear Gulch Cave, a tunnel-like jumble of boulders formed by thousands of years of water erosion. Bear Gulch Cave was closed in 1998 in order to protect its local residents—a colony of Townsend’s big-eared bats. In 2004, the Park Service installed a system of gates to protect the roosting bats and allow visitors access to the lower part of the cave for 10 months of the year (mid-July-mid-May). During short periods in October and March when the bats leave their home, the entire cave is open to visitors, and this is the best time to come. (Phone the park before making the long drive to confirm the current status of Bear Gulch Cave; the bats don’t conform to an exact timetable, and occasionally the entire cave is closed for safety due to flooding.) Be sure to come prepared for this adventure. Bring a flashlight and good walking shoes, and be mentally prepared to wedge through clefts in the rock, duck your head under ledges, and squint in the darkness to locate painted arrows pointing the way through the maze. The adventure is easy enough for children to accomplish, but equally fun for visitors of all ages.
Pinnacles National Park
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a $15 per vehicle entrance fee, good for seven days, at Pinnacles National Park.
Maps: A free map of Pinnacles National Park is available at the visitors center or by download at www.nps.gov/pinn. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Bickmore Canyon and North Chalone Peak.
Directions: From King City on U.S. 101, take the First Street exit and head east. First Street turns into Highway G13/Bitterwater Road. Follow it for 15 miles to Highway 25, where you turn left (north). Follow Highway 25 for 14 miles to Highway 146. Turn left on Highway 146 and drive 1.9 miles to Pinnacles Visitors Center, then continue another three miles to Bear Gulch Nature Center and the Bear Gulch Cave trailhead.
Alternatively, from Gilroy, drive south on U.S. 101 for two miles and take the Highway 25 exit. Drive south on Highway 25 for 43 miles to Highway 146. Turn right on Highway 146 and drive 1.9 miles to Pinnacles Visitors Center, then continue another three miles to Bear Gulch Nature Center and the Bear Gulch Cave trailhead.
Contact: Pinnacles National Park, Paicines, 831/389-4485, www.nps.gov/pinn.
9.0 mi/3.0-5.0 hr
in Pinnacles National Park near Soledad
Sure, the High Peaks at Pinnacles National Park are high—about 2,700 feet. But if you want to go higher and get a better look around, take this hike to North Chalone Peak. Located in the western area of the park at 3,304 feet in elevation, North Chalone Peak has a decommissioned fire lookout tower on its summit. It’s a great place to take in the view and enjoy some peace and quiet. This trail is much less traveled than the popular High Peaks Loop.
Take Moses Spring Trail from the Bear Gulch Nature Center parking lot, and then climb the stairs up to Bear Gulch Reservoir. Continue over the dam and along the left side of the reservoir until you meet the signed trail for North Chalone Peak. You are likely to see a posse of rock climbers who are busy doing their thing on the cliff faces around the reservoir. As you start along the North Chalone Peak Trail, you are only one mile from the nature center, but you’ve left the vast majority of people behind. Enjoy the fascinating volcanic rock formations and spring wildflowers on the next stretch of trail. At 3.5 miles, you’ll climb a stile to cross the park’s pig-proof fence, then follow the trail until it meets up with a fire road. This road will lead you to another stile over the pig fence. After crossing this fence, the summit is a short distance ahead. The final 0.75 mile is the steepest stretch of the whole trip, but the reward at the top is a fine view of the Salinas River curving through its valley, the Santa Lucia Mountains, and all of Pinnacles. During winter the Santa Lucias may be snow dusted, and on very rare, crystal-clear days, you can see all the way to the Pacific Ocean.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a $15 per vehicle entrance fee at Pinnacles National Park, good for seven days.
Maps: A free map of Pinnacles National Park is available at the visitors center or by download at www.nps.gov/pinn. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Bickmore Canyon and North Chalone Peak.
Directions: From King City on U.S. 101, take the First Street exit and head east. First Street turns into Highway G13/Bitterwater Road. Follow it for 15 miles to Highway 25, where you turn left (north). Follow Highway 25 for 14 miles to Highway 146. Turn left on Highway 146 and drive 1.9 miles to Pinnacles Visitors Center, then continue another three miles to Bear Gulch Nature Center and the trailhead.
Alternatively, from Gilroy, drive south on U.S. 101 for two miles and take the Highway 25 exit. Drive south on Highway 25 for 43 miles to Highway 146. Turn right on Highway 146 and drive 1.9 miles to Pinnacles Visitors Center, then continue another three miles to Bear Gulch Nature Center and the trailhead.
Contact: Pinnacles National Park, Paicines, 831/389-4485, www.nps.gov/pinn.
2.4 mi/1.5 hr
in Pinnacles National Park near Soledad
Pinnacles National Park has two famous sets of caves: Bear Gulch Cave, on the east side of the park; and Balconies Cave, on the west. Access to Bear Gulch Cave is often partially restricted in order to protect the resident bats, but Balconies Cave is open almost year-round (except immediately after the heaviest rains when the water can be dangerously high). Got your flashlight and sturdy footwear? Then get ready for tons of fun. Set off on the Balconies Trail, following the often dry west fork of Chalone Creek toward the narrow canyon between Machete Ridge and the Balconies. A mere 0.6 mile brings you to some huge, colorful, lichen-covered volcanic rocks. The sounds of the wind in the gray pines and the scurrying of squirrels keep you company. At the junction with the Balconies Cliffs Trail, you have a choice: go left over the cliffs and then loop back through the cave, or go right to enter the cave immediately. If you go right, you face a steep downhill scramble that some less agile hikers find difficult. (It’s much easier to climb up this than down it.) Either way, you’ll eventually find yourself in the cave. Turn on your flashlight and proceed through a narrow slotlike canyon, squeezing through clefts in the rock, ducking under boulders, and climbing down rocky staircases. Note that if you drove all the way to the east side of the park but you want to visit Balconies Cave, you don’t have to drive 1.5 hours around the park’s perimeter to get to this trailhead. Balconies Cave can also be reached from the east side via a much longer hike on the Old Pinnacles Trail.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a $15 per vehicle entrance fee at Pinnacles National Park, good for seven days.
Maps: A free map of Pinnacles National Park is available at the ranger station or by download at www.nps.gov/pinn. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Bickmore Canyon and North Chalone Peak.
Directions: From Salinas, drive south on U.S. 101 for 22 miles to Soledad, and take the Soledad/Highway 146 exit. Drive east on Highway 146 for 10 miles to the West Side Visitors Contact Station. (The road is signed for West Pinnacles.) Then continue another two miles to the road’s end at the trailhead parking lot. (Note that you can also hike to Balconies Cave from the east side of the park via the Old Pinnacles Trail.)
Contact: Pinnacles National Park, Paicines, 831/389-4485, www.nps.gov/pinn.
8.4 mi/5.0 hr
in Pinnacles National Park near Soledad
Pinnacles National Park is a hiker’s park. The first clue you get is that no road connects the east and west sides of the park, so the only way to get from one side to the other is to walk. And that’s just fine, especially since the park’s first-rate trail system makes it possible to string together a loop tour around the park on the Juniper Canyon Trail, High Peaks Trail (the part known as the Steep and Narrow Section), Old Pinnacles Trail, and Balconies Trail. If you follow the trails in this order, you get almost all your climbing done in the first half of the trip and then have a fairly easy and flat home stretch.
Begin hiking from the right side of the large parking lot at the end of Highway 146, following Juniper Canyon Trail from grasslands into the rocky hills. The trail gets steeper as you go, but it’s well built and has many switchbacks. Ignore the Tunnel Trail turnoff at 1.2 miles, and keep climbing to the junction with High Peaks Trail, at 1.8 miles. Here, at a saddle, are fine views to the west and east, as well as a bench and restroom. The High Peaks Trail goes both north and southeast. Turn north (left) and prepare yourself for the most thrilling part of the trip: a narrow and exciting stretch of trail with many handrails and footholds carved into the rock. Continue on the High Peaks Trail for 3.3 miles until it ends at the Bench Trail. Make a left onto the Bench Trail and soon it becomes the Old Pinnacles Trail, a pleasant route that meanders along the west fork of Chalone Creek. In winter, the creek runs with water, and spring wildflowers are tremendous. In 2.3 miles, you’ll go through six unbridged creek crossings and reach a fork for the Balconies Trail. If you’ve never been to Balconies Cave, take the left fork, which leads you through it. (The right fork climbs above the cave and offers some excellent views.) After ducking your head and bending your knees a lot as you wander through the cave, you’ll come out to an easy and flat section of the Balconies Trail, which brings you back to the trailhead parking lot. If you pick a cool day and carry plenty of water, this is a stellar half-day hike at Pinnacles.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. There is a $15 per vehicle entrance fee at Pinnacles National Park, good for seven days.
Maps: A free map of Pinnacles National Park is available at the ranger station or by download at www.nps.gov/pinn. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Bickmore Canyon and North Chalone Peak.
Directions: From Salinas, drive south on U.S. 101 for 22 miles to Soledad, and take the Soledad/Highway 146 exit. Drive east on Highway 146 for 10 miles to the West Side Visitors Contact Station. (The road is signed for West Pinnacles.) Then continue another two miles to the road’s end at the trailhead parking lot.
Contact: Pinnacles National Park, Paicines, 831/389-4485, www.nps.gov/pinn.
5.4 mi/2.5 hr
in Mill Creek Redwood Preserve
Mill Creek Redwood Preserve is a special place on the Big Sur Coast. In fact, it’s so special that you have to obtain a permit in order to hike there. Only eight permits per day are given out for this trail, with a maximum of five people allowed per permit. And that’s how it should be, because this redwood grove has the sanctity of a holy cathedral. Although Mill Creek canyon was logged to some extent in the early 20th century, some of the redwoods here are still old-growth, and huge in size. The preserve is home to many special creatures, including a few magnificent owl species: great horned, northern saw-whet, and spotted. The Mill Creek Trail, built in 2006, laterals across Mill Creek’s canyon, traveling under a dense canopy of tanoaks, madrones, and redwoods, and crossing over cascading streams on sturdy footbridges. In the wettest months of the year, these small streams produce lovely waterfalls. The trail very gradually gains 250 feet in elevation until it tops out at a high viewpoint that overlooks the Santa Lucia Mountains and the coast. A few wooden benches invite hikers to linger a while over the view, which overlooks the Santa Lucia Mountains and the coast.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A free permit is required to enter the preserve; go to www.mprpd.org to reserve a permit at least 48 hours in advance of your hike. Permits are processed only on weekdays. Parking and access are free.
Maps: For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Mount Carmel and Big Sur.
Directions: From Carmel, drive south on Highway 1 for 12 miles, past Garrapata State Park, to the left (east) turnoff for Palo Colorado Road, about 0.25 mile south of Rocky Point Restaurant. Turn left and drive east 6.8 miles to the trailhead. Park alongside the road.
Contact: Monterey Peninsula Regional Park District, Monterey, 831/659-4488 or 831/372-3196, www.mprpd.org.
7.6 mi/3.5 hr or 2 days
in the Ventana Wilderness near Carmel Valley
What’s the best thing about this trip? The far-off ocean views in the first mile of the climb? The white marble of giant Pico Blanco to the southwest? The colors of the oak leaves in autumn? The huge old madrone trees that pepper Skinner Ridge? It’s hard to decide; you’d better go see for yourself. Pick a cool and clear day to make the trip, preferably in autumn, or arm yourself with a ton of sunscreen and water in summer. The trailhead is at 2,000 feet in an area that was severely burned in the wildfires of 2008, but the trail has been carefully rebuilt and is in better shape now than it was before the fire. It begins with an ascent through chaparral, offering many wide views. Then the trail enters the trees (madrones and oaks) and twists its way to a short, steep ascent to the top of Skinner Ridge, at 3,450 feet and 2.1 miles out. A wide bulldozer line runs up the ridge, left from the huge Marble Cone fire of the 1970s. From the ridge, backpackers usually continue down the other side for 0.75 mile to a trail junction for Turner Creek. Apple Tree Camp is a left turn and one mile away—a good place for an overnight. Day hikers should proceed straight ahead at that junction for the climb to Devil’s Peak, elevation 4,158 feet, and one mile farther. That final mile will get you huffing and puffing for sure, but hey, exercise is good for you, right?
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No day hiking permits are required. A parking fee of $5 per vehicle is charged.
Maps: A Ventana Wilderness or Los Padres National Forest map is available from the U.S. Forest Service. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Mount Carmel and Big Sur.
Directions: From Carmel, drive south on Highway 1 for 12 miles, past Garrapata State Park, to the left (east) turnoff for Palo Colorado Road, south of Rocky Point Restaurant. Turn left and drive eight miles to Bottcher’s Gap Campground. The Skinner Ridge Trail begins at the edge of the parking lot.
Contact: Big Sur Station, Highway 1, Big Sur, 831/667-2315; Los Padres National Forest, Monterey Ranger District, King City, 831/385-5434, www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf.
2.5 mi/1.5 hr
in Andrew Molera State Park north of Big Sur
Andrew Molera is a low-key state park without all the development and fanfare that often come with state park status. But the park has plenty to offer for hikers and coast lovers. An easy trail leads from the park’s main parking lot to Molera Point, where you can look down on spectacular Molera Beach and count the sea lions lying on the rocks. To reach the point, take the trail from the right side of the main parking lot, signed for the campground (not the main trail to the beach, which starts with a bridge crossing). The Molera Point Trail stays on the north side of the Big Sur River and winds past the park’s walk-in camp, set in a wide meadow, and historic Cooper Cabin, which was built in 1861 and is the oldest structure on the Big Sur coast. At the river’s mouth, the trail forks to the right, heading out to Molera Point. Check out the view from this often windswept promontory; then if the tide is low, go play on the beach at the river’s edge before heading back.
User Groups: Hikers and horses. No dogs or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Andrew Molera State Park is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Big Sur.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 22 miles south on Highway 1 to Andrew Molera State Park’s main entrance, on the west side of the highway. Trails begin at the parking lot. The park is two miles north of Big Sur.
Contact: Andrew Molera State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
8.0 mi/4.0 hr
in Andrew Molera State Park north of Big Sur
This big loop around the western side of Andrew Molera State Park is easiest in summer, when the footbridge is in place over the Big Sur River. If the bridge isn’t there, you must take off your shoes and socks and suffer through a very cold ford over smooth, rounded rocks. But this trail is worth the effort. It offers several miles of lovely ocean vistas, plus a visit to a remote beach. Start by taking the path from the west side of the parking lot and immediately crossing the river. In a few minutes of walking, you’ll leave the crowds behind as you turn left (south) on the River Trail, then in less than a mile, turn right on the single-track Hidden Trail. Enjoy a heart-pumping climb through forest and meadows up to the Ridge Trail, where you turn left and hike southward, paralleling the ocean. The Ridge Trail is a wide fire road and rolls gently, still heading generally uphill. In addition to the ocean vistas to the west, you also have fine views inland of Big Sur’s rugged peaks, and you pass through a small, surprising grove of redwood trees.
Andrew Molera State Park
At 3.5 miles, the Ridge Trail meets the Panorama Trail at a bench and overlook point. Turn right and start to switchback steeply downhill toward the ocean, enjoying more wide views all the way. Spring wildflowers are lovely along the open hillsides. As you near the coast, you’ll reach a junction with the Spring Trail. Turn left for a few hundred feet to a lovely, driftwood-laden beach. This makes a perfect lunch stop, provided the wind isn’t howling. A fascinating log jam at the beach’s entrance makes for great photographs. For your return, follow the Bluffs Trail 2.5 miles back to Molera Beach. This is the loveliest stretch of the entire loop, offering long and beautiful looks at Molera Point and beach and Point Sur Light Station. Finally, take the trail from Molera Beach back to the parking lot. Wow, what a perfect Big Sur day.
User Groups: Hikers and horses. No dogs. Mountain bikes are allowed on Ridge Trail and part of Bluffs Trail only. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Andrew Molera State Park is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Big Sur.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 22 miles south on Highway 1 to Andrew Molera State Park’s main entrance, on the west side of the highway. Trails begin at the parking lot. (The park is two miles north of Big Sur.)
Contact: Andrew Molera State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
3.0 mi/1.0 hr
in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park near Big Sur
The Pfeiffer Falls Trail section of this popular hiking loop suffered serious damage in the 2008 Basin Fire and will be closed from June 2016 to January 2018 for reconstruction, but you can still hike the Valley View Trail to see Pfeiffer Falls, a 60-foot waterfall that streams down a vertical rock face. By sticking with Valley View Trail, you’ll also gain a great view of the Big Sur Valley. Start at the Ernst Ewoldsen Memorial Nature Center at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. Follow Valley View Trail uphill through the redwoods for about a mile to a trail fork. If the right-hand trail to Pfeiffer Falls is open, switchback downhill for 0.2 mile to a bridge over Pfeiffer Creek located near the base of the falls. Enjoy the watery splendor, then backtrack and continue uphill beyond the junction to the high point of Valley View Trail, where the shady redwoods are replaced by sun-loving oaks. Brilliant blooms of Douglas iris color the ground in the spring. The path tops out at an overlook of the Big Sur River Valley looking northwest to Point Sur. The sight of tiny cars on Highway 1 somewhat diminishes the effect, but it’s still a worthy view. Until the Pfeiffer Falls Trail reopens, your return trip is a simple backtrack on Valley View Trail back to the nature center.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Big Sur.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 26 miles south on Highway 1 to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, on the east side of the highway. It’s two miles south of Big Sur. Drive through the entrance kiosk, turn left at the lodge, and then turn right, following the signs to the Pfeiffer Falls trailhead and the nature center. Park just beyond the nature center. The trail is on the left side of the lot, signed as Oak Grove Trail, Valley View Trail, and Pfeiffer Falls Trail. If the small parking lot is full, you may have to park by the lodge and walk to the trailhead.
Contact: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
9.0 mi/5.0 hr
on the southern edge of the Ventana Wilderness near Big Sur
This trail leads to one of the best vantage points in the Ventana Wilderness, the summit of Mount Manuel, where all of Big Sur, the Santa Lucia Mountains, and the Pacific Ocean are spread out before you. Odd as it seems, the trail starts out by the softball fields and picnic areas at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. Over the course of the trail’s 4.5-mile length, you’ll climb 3,100 feet to Mount Manuel’s summit at 3,379 feet in elevation, so make sure you have fresh soles on your boots and plenty of water. Pick a cool day to make the climb, because although the trail starts in the trees, the vast majority of the route is completely exposed. Winter and spring are usually the best seasons to head for the summit, both for the clarity of the view (less chance of fog) and for cool temperatures.
Negotiate your way through a half-mile series of signed state park trails to access the official start of the Mount Manuel Trail. You’ll enter Los Padres National Forest and begin a long series of switchbacks over chaparral-covered slopes. As you climb, you gain views of the Big Sur River canyon and the coast. About three miles from the start, the trail enters a forest of tanoaks, bay laurels, and redwoods, then exits it again, returning to the chaparral. Finally you near the summit, or rather, a series of summits. Head for the obvious highest point, where the view of the vast Pacific Ocean and the beauty of the Santa Lucia Mountains will blow you away.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No day hiking permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A Ventana Wilderness or Los Padres National Forest map is available from the U.S. Forest Service. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Pfeiffer Point and Big Sur.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 26 miles south on Highway 1 to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, on the east side of the highway. It’s two miles south of Big Sur. Drive through the entrance kiosk and continue straight past the campfire center to the parking lot near the picnic areas and softball field. The trailhead is signed for Oak Grove Trail and Mount Manuel.
Contact: Big Sur Station, Highway 1, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov; Los Padres National Forest, Monterey Ranger District, King City, 831/385-5434, www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf.
4.0 mi/2.0 hr
in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park near Big Sur
Hikers looking for a bit of a challenge in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park will want to try out this trail to the Buzzards Roost Overlook. Compared to other trails in the park, this trail gets surprisingly little traffic unless there are large groups camping at the nearby group campground. The trail leads along the Big Sur River through a forest of many splendid redwoods, switches back uphill onto slopes filled with oaks and bays, and finally climbs into chaparral country. You get to walk in every kind of Big Sur terrain. High up on Pfeiffer Ridge, there’s a 360-degree view of the Pacific Ocean, the Big Sur River gorge, and the Santa Lucia Mountains, providing a fine reward for your effort in climbing here. The trailhead is at 200 feet in elevation, and the overlook is at nearly 1,000 feet.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park is available at the entrance station or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Big Sur and Pfeiffer Point.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 26 miles south on Highway 1 to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, on the east side of the highway. It’s two miles south of Big Sur. Drive through the entrance kiosk, go past the lodge, and turn right to cross the bridge over the Big Sur River. A parking area is on the left side of the road. The Buzzards Roost trailhead is signed.
Contact: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
20.0 mi/2 days
in the Ventana Wilderness near Big Sur
The trip to Sykes Hot Springs is one that just about every California backpacker takes at one time or another. This is a quintessential Big Sur/Ventana Wilderness trip, with deep swimming holes, three hot springs pools, and plenty of coastal mountain scenery. Although much of the land surrounding the Pine Ridge Trail to the springs was badly burned in 2008 wildfires, the trail has been thoroughly cleared and maintained and this trip remains as popular as ever, so plan your trip for the off-season if possible. Fall and winter are the best times to visit, and if you go on a weekday, you might just get the hot springs all to yourself. The first four miles of Pine Ridge Trail will have you huffing and puffing through shadeless switchbacks, with only occasional breaks as the path travels through small redwood groves. The route eventually levels and gets much easier. At a junction just past the four-mile mark, the left trail leads to Ventana Camp, one mile farther. This camp near Ventana Creek makes a great overnight for people who have gotten a late start; it even has a "wilderness toilet." At 5.4 miles, the trail reaches Terrace Creek Camp, another option for spending the night. At 7.0 miles, you reach the Big Sur River for the first time, and another camp at Barlow Flat. You’ll cross the river at 9.7 miles and head for Sykes Camp and the hot springs. Note that after a period of rain, this can be a difficult or even impossible ford, so if you plan to hike in the wet season, check on conditions before setting out. The hot springs are less than a quarter mile from the camp. Depending on current conditions, two or three pools are terraced along the Big Sur River. The largest of the group is 10 feet long and gracefully sheltered by a large boulder. It averages 100 degrees; the other pools are slightly cooler.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A California campfire permit is required year-round for overnight stays whether you are using a camp stove or building a fire; permits are free and available online at fs.usda.gov/lpnf or in person at the Big Sur Visitors Center. An $8 parking fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A Ventana Wilderness or Los Padres National Forest map is available from the U.S. Forest Service. For topographic maps, go to the USGS website to download Pfeiffer Point, Partington Ridge, and Ventana Cones.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 30 miles south on Highway 1 to Big Sur Station, on the east side of the highway. It’s three miles south of Big Sur. The Pine Ridge Trail begins behind the ranger station at the backpacker’s parking lot.
Contact: Big Sur Station, Highway 1, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836; Los Padres National Forest, Monterey Ranger District, King City, 831/385-5434, www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf.
4.0 mi/2.0 hr
in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park south of Big Sur
If you want to hike at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park without the crowds, a combined out-and-back trip on Partington Point and Tanbark Trails could be just your cup of tea. The two trails are about as different as any trails could be, except that they both start from the same point along Highway 1. The Partington Point Trail is a dirt road that leads westward and steeply downhill to an obvious fork at 0.5 mile. The right fork leads a few hundred feet to a tiny rock-strewn beach at Partington Creek’s mouth. The left fork leads into the redwoods, across a wooden footbridge, and through a rock tunnel built in the 1880s by pioneer John Partington. On the tunnel’s far side is the remains of a narrow dog-hole port at Partington Cove, where lumber was loaded onto seagoing freighters. Partington Point is home to the park’s underwater playground of caves and natural bridges, but unless you’re a scuba diver, you won’t be able to see them. Instead, you can have a seat on a rock and look for sea otters, sea lions, and pelicans. Also keep your eyes peeled for spouting whales.
After visiting Partington Cove, hike back uphill and cross the highway to the start of Tanbark Trail, which leads along Partington Creek, heading inland. Much of this inland area was burned in the wildfires of 2008, but the forest is recovering quickly. You can walk a short half-mile loop on the trail (a bridge carries you across Partington Creek and then back down the other side), or you can continue farther, climbing steeply uphill for 1.5 miles to a confluence of streams at a spot known as Swiss Camp. A half-mile beyond Swiss Camp, your trail junctions with a fire road, which leads to the historic Tin House (it was constructed by Lathrop Brown in 1944 out of tin from two old gas stations), a total of 3.2 miles from the trailhead. Follow the fire road steeply downhill, enjoying fantastic coastal views all the way (hiking poles are handy for this steep descent). The dirt road ends at Highway 1, and you’ll need to walk alongside the highway for a mile to get back to your car (head north, or to your right). Or, if you have arranged a car shuttle in advance, you can follow a new trail, built in 2013, that connects to the Ewoldsen Trail, a distance of about one mile.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A map of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is available at the entrance kiosk (2.2 miles south of this trailhead) or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Partington Ridge.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 34 miles south on Highway 1 to a dirt pullout along the highway and the trailheads for the Partington Point and Tanbark Trails. The trailheads are 10.5 miles south of Big Sur and 2.2 miles north of the main entrance to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. Partington Point Trail is on the west side of the highway; Tanbark Trail is on the east side.
Contact: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
0.5 mi/0.5 hr
in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park south of Big Sur
After Yosemite Falls and Bridalveil Fall, McWay Falls is probably the waterfall that appears most often on family snapshots of California vacations. Although few know its name, its image is unforgettable: an 80-foot waterfall leaping off a rugged ocean bluff and pouring gracefully into the Pacific. The walk to the waterfall’s overlook is on a paved trail that leads through a tunnel underneath Highway 1 and comes out to a spectacular overlook of McWay Cove. A bench is placed along the trail, and you can sit there and admire the action—and maybe even catch sight of a passing gray whale. You can continue a few hundred feet beyond the bench, where the trail ends at the ruins of Waterfall House, the home of Lathrop and Helen Hooper Brown in the 1940s. There’s not much left of it now, but at one time, it was quite a place.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. The McWay Falls Overlook Trail is wheelchair-accessible via a special bridge that bypasses the stairs from the parking lot.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is available at the entrance kiosk or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Partington Ridge.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 37 miles south on Highway 1 to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, located on the east side of the highway, 13 miles south of Big Sur. Drive through the entrance kiosk and park near the restrooms. The Overlook Trail starts on a series of wooden stairs across the pavement from the restrooms.
Contact: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
5.3 mi/2.5 hr
in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park south of Big Sur
The Ewoldsen Trail, one of the best day-hiking trails in all of Big Sur, was closed for several years after the 2008 Basin Fire, but is now open again and as spectacular as ever. The trail begins with an easy saunter along McWay Creek and its spectacular redwood forest, passing within a few yards of the second-largest redwood tree in Monterey County (there’s no sign; you have to guess which one it is). Soon the trail splits, with Canyon Trail to the left and Ewoldsen Trail switchbacking uphill. Take the short Canyon Trail spur to its end, 0.25 mile away, and visit McWay Canyon’s sweet little waterfall. Then retrace your steps to the junction and head uphill on Ewoldsen Trail, which climbs steadily above the tops of the tall redwood trees below. The next fork, about 1.5 miles in, is the beginning of the loop. Hike the right side first. You’ll alternate between dense redwood forest and more sparse oak woodland until at 2.6 miles you’ll see a spur trail signed as Overlook/Lookout. Take it and climb very steeply uphill for 0.25 mile until you come out to a wide, grassy ridgetop with stunning views over McWay Canyon and out to the ocean. After all your time in the forest, this bald, grassy viewpoint comes as quite a surprise. A bench and never-ending Pacific Views are yours for the taking, so pull out your lunch and your camera. California condors like this spot, too, so keep your eyes on the skies for these massive creatures. After a rest, retrace your steps to the junction, bear right, and take the downhill side of the loop. You’ll notice a lot of recent trail work here as the park tried to slow the massive erosion that occurred after the Basin Fire. The steep dropoffs offer more fine views of the ocean before you drop back into redwood forest. The total elevation gain along the trail is 1,600 feet. Note that if you want to hike a bit farther, it’s now possible to hike a connector trail from this trail to the Tanbark Trail and the Tin House, a distance of about one mile (see Tanbark Trail in this chapter).
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. A $10 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is available at the entrance kiosk or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Partington Ridge.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 37 miles south on Highway 1 to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, on the east side of the highway. It’s 13 miles south of Big Sur. Drive through the entrance kiosk, and park near the restrooms. The Ewoldsen Trail starts near the picnic areas on the inland side of the parking area.
Contact: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/649-2836, www.parks.ca.gov.
10.6-13.0 mi/6.0 hr or 2 days
in the Ventana Wilderness near Carmel Valley
The Pine Valley hike is a great one-night backpacking trip or long day hike into the Ventana Wilderness and can easily be extended into a 13-mile loop. The hike begins on the northern end of Pine Ridge Trail at China Campground, following an up-and-down course that soon becomes more down than up. At 3.5 miles, you turn right on Carmel River Trail and descend some more to the headwaters of the Carmel River and the beginning of a fir and ponderosa pine forest. Pine Valley Camp is 5.3 miles from the trailhead, set in lush Pine Valley, a spacious high meadow lined with ferns, ponderosa pines, and rocky sandstone formations. A short side trip to Pine Falls is possible from the camp; follow a well-worn route downstream along the river for 0.5 mile to the waterfall. From there, you can retrace your steps to the trailhead for a 10.6-mile round-trip, or make camp at Pine Valley, or take the trail from the upper end of camp, which meets up with Pine Ridge Trail. Turn left on Pine Ridge Trail and hike back to the trailhead to complete a 13-mile loop.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: A California campfire permit is required year-round for overnight stays whether you are using a camp stove or building a fire; permits are free and available online at fs.usda.gov/lpnf or in person at the King City Forest Service office or the Big Sur Visitors Center.
Maps: A Ventana Wilderness or Los Padres National Forest map is available from the U.S. Forest Service. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Chews Ridge.
Directions: From Greenfield on U.S. 101, take the G-16/Monterey County Road exit and drive west for 29 miles. Turn south on Tassajara Road and drive 1.3 miles to Cachagua Road. Turn left and drive nine miles to the trailhead, located just past the turnoff for China Campground. High-clearance vehicles are recommended. The county sometimes closes the road during bad weather; call the Monterey Ranger District before traveling.
Contact: Los Padres National Forest, Monterey Ranger District, King City, 831/385-5434, www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf.
1.8 mi/1.0 hr
in Limekiln State Park south of Big Sur
What’s Big Sur’s best-kept secret? That’s easy—the hiking trail at Limekiln State Park. The state park is so far south of Big Sur that it doesn’t get inundated by visitors, as does Pfeiffer Big Sur and Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Parks. The Limekiln Trail leads from the inland campground into a gorgeous redwood forest. It follows Limekiln Creek for a half mile to the park’s namesake limekilns, which were used to make limestone bricks and cement in the 1880s. The four kilns look like giant smokestacks with mossy, brick bottoms; they’re interesting to see and photograph, but in the wet season, they are not the biggest attraction on this trail. What is? A fork off the main trail leads to Limekiln Falls, a spectacular 100-foot waterfall that drops over a limestone face. When the water is running with vigor, you’ll probably end up with wet feet as you boulder-hop your way to its base, but it’s worth it. This waterfall is a beauty.
If you find yourself enchanted by the lands of this state park and want to hike farther, consider following the Alvin Trail to Twitchell Flats, a fork off the Limekiln Trail. This trail quickly leaves the redwoods behind and travels uphill through coastal grasslands, finally reaching the Twitchell jeep trail and an 1880s homestead site where you can see the remains of a foundation, hearth, and cistern. The ocean views on this trail make all the climbing worth it. Some hikers use this trail to access Stony Ridge and the summit of Cone Peak—an arduous trek but worth it for the views.
User Groups: Hikers only. No dogs, horses, or mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. An $8 day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Maps: A map of Limekiln State Park is available at the entrance kiosk or by free download at www.parks.ca.gov. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Lopez Point.
Directions: From Carmel, drive 52 miles south on Highway 1 to Limekiln State Park, on the east side of the highway. It’s 2.5 miles south of Lucia and 14.8 miles south of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The trailhead is at the far side of the inland campground.
Contact: Limekiln State Park, Big Sur, 831/667-2315 or 831/667-2403, www.parks.ca.gov.
4.8 mi/2.5 hr
in the Ventana Wilderness north of Lucia
The 2.4-mile climb to Cone Peak is a classic Ventana Wilderness adventure, and the fun begins with the drive to the trailhead. After leaving Highway 1, first you get wide coastal views and then views of the inland mountain ranges as your car chugs its way uphill. But those are nothing compared to the views you get at the fire lookout on Cone Peak’s summit, at 5,155 feet above sea level. This is the second highest mountain in the Santa Lucia Range (after 5,862-foot Junipero Serra Peak, also known as "Pinkolam" and much harder to hike to), but what makes this summit really special is the fact that it is only three miles from the ocean. The average gradient from sea level to the summit is about 30 percent, which creates an extremely dramatic, high-contrast view. The short hike from the trailhead to the summit is a steep climb, and the last mile feels like it goes straight up (total elevation gain is 1,400 feet). Make sure you have plenty of water with you, and in the spring months, bring along a wildflower identification book. These slopes are littered with penstemon, poppies, sticky monkeyflower, paintbrush, and many other colorful blooms. After zig-zagging upward through a mix of low chapparal, hardwoods, and then conifers (mostly Coulter pines), you reach a trail junction at 1.9 miles. Go east (right) and walk the final half mile to the fire lookout. In this last stretch, the trail is literally cut into the rock. At the top you’ll find the historic lookout tower, built in 1923, as well as an eye-popping vista. You can see as far as 100 miles on clear days, and if the fog has burned off, you can look down the west side of Cone Peak for almost a vertical mile to the ocean. Be sure to pack along a good map, so you can name all the peaks and valleys in the 360-degree panorama that surrounds you.
User Groups: Hikers, dogs, and horses. No mountain bikes. No wheelchair facilities.
Permits: No permits are required. Parking and access are free.
Maps: A Ventana Wilderness or Los Padres National Forest map is available from the U.S. Forest Service. For a topographic map, go to the USGS website to download Cone Peak.
Directions: From Big Sur, drive 27 miles south on Highway 1 to Kirk Creek Campground, on the west side of the highway, and the left turnoff for Nacimiento-Fergusson Road, on the east side of the highway. Turn left and drive 7.2 miles, then turn left on the dirt Coast Ridge Road (sometimes called Cone Peak Road) and drive 5.5 miles to the trailhead on the left (do not follow the road to its end). Park off the road; there is space for about six cars. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended, although not always necessary.
Note: Coast Ridge Road/Cone Peak Road is usually closed during the rainy season (Nov.-Mar.).
Contact: Los Padres National Forest, Monterey Ranger District, King City, 831/385-5434, www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf.