| A | B | C | D |
| E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T |
| U | V | W | Y |
Aasleagh Falls: 351
Abbeys and monasteries: Cong Abbey, 341; Ennis Friary, 286–287; Glendalough, 127–131; Hore Abbey, 151; Jerpoint Abbey, 143–144; Kells Priory, 144–145; Monasterboice, 117–118, 478; Old Mellifont Abbey, 116–117; Reasc Monastery, 273–274; St. Mary’s Abbey (Howth), 105
Abbey Theatre (Dublin): 39, 67, 80, 481
Abortion: 476
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Aer Arann Islands: 338
Afternoon tea, in Dublin: 88–89
Aillwee Caves: 300–301
Airfares (airlines): 546; budgeting, 5–6; carry-on restrictions, 11–12; discount, 95, 546
Airports: 546–547; Aran Islands, 338; Belfast, 395; Cork, 198; Dublin, 28–29, 95; Kerry, 238, 279–280; Shannon, 286, 291, 546–547; VAT refunds, 499–500
Almanac: Northern Ireland, 360–361; Republic of Ireland, 18
Ancestors, tracing: See Genealogical research
Ancient stone circles: about, 460–461. See also Archaeological sites
An Daingean Peninsula: See Dingle Peninsula
An Daingean Town: See Dingle Town
An Earagail: 449
Anglo-Irish Treaty (1921): 53
Annascaul: 251
An Plassy (shipwreck): 335
An Post Museum (Dublin): 40
Antrim, County: 402–419
Antrim Coast: 410–419; map, 414–415; transportation, 402–403. See also Portrush
Antrim Mountains and Glens: 418–419
Apartment rentals: overview, 514–515
Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall (Derry): 427–428
Aquariums: Dingle, 247–248; Salthill, 313
Aran Islands: 321–338; ferries, 296, 336–338
Archaeological sites: overview, 454, 456, 460–461, 476–477; Caherconnell Ring Fort, 299; Cahergal Ring Fort, 224, 227, 232; Drombeg Stone Circle, 184, 461; Dún Aenghus (Inishmore), 323, 326–327; Dunbeg Fort, 271; Gallarus Oratory, 274–275; Grianan Aileach Ring Fort, 445–446; Hill of Tara, 50–51, 116, 454; Kenmare Ancient Stone Circle, 207, 209; Knowth, 113–114; Leacanabuaile Ring Fort, 224, 227, 232; Newgrange, 112–113; Poulnabrone Dolmen, 299; Puicin Wedge Tomb, 252; Rock of Cashel, 145–153; Staigue Ring Fort, 223, 224–225, 227
Ardmore: 198–199
Arkin Fort (Inishmore): 328
Arlington Hotel (Dublin): 89
Art: overview, 476–479. See also specific art museums and artists
Atlantaquaria Aquarium (Salthill): 313
ATMs: 494–495. See also specific destinations
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 10–11, 547–548
Avondale House: 131
Back Door travel philosophy: 13
Bacon (Francis) Studio (Dublin): 71
Bailey Lighthouse (Howth): 106
Ballinskelligs: 224
Ballinspittle: 355
Ballycastle: ferries, 418
Ballyferriter: 273; golf, 251; sleeping, 261
Ballyhack: 169
Ballyvaughan: 299
Balscadden House (Howth): 105–106
B&Bs: See Bed-and-breakfasts
Bangor Coastal Path: 398
Banks: See Money; and specific destinations
Banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 301–302, 320
Barronstrand Street (Waterford): 157, 165
Barry’s Old Time Amusement Arcade (Portrush): 406
Battle of Castlebar: 345
Battle of Kinsale: 184–185, 186, 460–461
Battle of the Boyne (1690): 108, 114–116, 464; site of, 114–116
Beaches: Ardmore, 198–199; Bangor, 398; Carroll’s Cove, 223; Dingle, 252; Dun Laoghaire, 101; Inishmore, 327, 328; Portrush, 406; St. Finian’s Bay, 224–225; Salthill, 313; Ventry, 269
Beal na Blath: 201–202
Beara Peninsula: 210–211; boating, 209; map, 211
Beatty (Chester) Library (Dublin): 46, 60–62
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 508–512. See also specific destinations
Beehive huts (clochans): 234, 271, 274, 457
Beer: 517–518; Dingle Brewing Company, 248; Guinness Storehouse (Dublin), 47, 75–77; Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny, 140. See also Pubs
Belfast: 366–396; arrival in, 369, 372; eating, 393–395; excursion areas, 396–401; helpful hints, 372–373; itineraries, 367–368; layout of, 368–369; maps, 367, 370–371, 383, 392; shopping, 372; sights, 376–390; sleeping, 390–393; tourist information, 369; tours, 374–376; transportation, 369, 372, 373–374, 395–396
Belfast Botanic Gardens: 387
Belfast City Hall: 382–383, 385
Belfast International Airport: 395
Belfast Titanic Society: 376
Belfast Visitor Pass: 372
Belleek Pottery Visitors Centre: 442
Bewley’s Café (Dublin): 92
Biking (bike rentals): Bangor, 398; Belfast, 373, 375; Dingle, 239, 249, 266–276; Dublin, 31, 35; Galway, 308; Inisheer, 332–333; Inishmore, 324, 325; Kenmare, 206; Kilkenny, 137; Kinsale, 179; Portrush, 406; Waterford, 159; Westport, 347
Bird-watching: 269, 344; the Burren, 293, 301; Rathlin Island, 418; Skellig Michael, 233, 235
Birkenhead: ferries, 396
Birth control: 476
Bishop’s Gate (Derry): 429
Bishop’s Palace (Waterford): 164–165
Black Fort (Inishmore): 329
Blarney Stone and Castle: 200–201
Blarney Woolen Mills: 201
Blasket Islands: 272, 276–278; ferries, 242, 277; sleeping, 261; tours, 242–243
Blennerville Windmill (Tralee): 279
Blessing of the Boats (Dingle): 239, 556
Bloody Foreland: 449
Bloody Sunday (1972): 427, 428–429, 431, 435–436, 472; Monument (Derry), 434
Blue Coat School (Derry): 427
Boating: Bangor, 398; Dingle, 243; Kenmare, 209; Rathlin Island, 418
Boat travel and cruises: Aran Islands, 296, 336–338; Belfast, 376; Blasket Islands, 242, 277; Cliffs of Moher, 293, 294; Cobh, 194; Dingle, 242–243; Doolin, 293, 337–338; Garnish Island, 210; Howth, 105; Kinsale, 180; map, 532–533; Skellig Michael, 232, 233–234. See also Ferries
Bog Bodies (Dublin): 51–52
Bogs: about, 351–353
Bogside Inn (Derry): 436
Bogside Murals (Derry): 429–436; map, 430
Bollard’s Pub (Kilkenny): 140
Book of Kells (Dublin): 43–45, 46, 48, 457, 478
Books, recommended: 549–550
Boyne Valley: See Valley of the Boyne
Braveheart (movie): 119, 121, 133
Brazen Head, the (Dublin): 81, 89
Brendan, Saint: 244, 287, 288, 311, 457
Brian Ború: 48–49, 102, 286, 458
Bridge End: 445
Bridget, Saint: 293
Broighter Hoard: 54
Bru Boru Cultural Centre (Rock of Cashel): 153
Brú na Bóinne: 110–114, 476; map, 109; tours, 109–110; Visitors Center and Museum, 111–112
Budgeting: 5–8
Bulman Bar (Summercove): 190
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park: 282
Burial mounds: See Archaeological sites
Burren, the: 297–302; botany of, 300; maps, 282, 298; planning tips, 281–282; self-guided driving tour, 297–302; tours, 283–284
Burren Birds of Prey Centre: 301
Burren Centre (Kilfenora): 297
Burren Way: 294
Buses (bus travel): 535–537; Antrim Coast, 402–403; Belfast, 373–374, 395; Dublin, 28, 29, 32, 35–36; map, 532–533. See also specific destinations
Bushmills Distillery: 415–416
Business hours: 494
Butler Arms Hotel: 224
Cabs: See Taxis
Caherconnell Ring Fort: 299
Cahergal Ring Fort: 224–225, 227, 232
Cairnryan: ferries, 395–396
Car insurance: 541
Car navigation: 540
Carnegie Arts Center (Kenmare): 206
Car rentals: 6–7, 537–539; Dublin, 31
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge: 416
Carrickfergus Castle: 389–390
Carrigloe: 198
Carroll’s Cove: 223
Car travel (driving): 541–546; Antrim Coast, 402; Belfast, 372; best three-week trip, 10–11; the Burren, 281–282, 297–302; Cobh, 197–198; Connemara, 340–354; County Clare, 281–282; County Donegal, 444–453; Dingle, 238, 266–276, 280; distances and time, 539; driving tips, 544–545; Dublin, 29–30; Ennis, 285; Galway, 320; Glendalough, 131; Healy Pass, 210; Kinsale, 178; map, 532–533; Ring of Kerry, 220, 221–227; road signs, 541; roundabouts, 542–543; Sally Gap, 127; Slea Head Drive, 266–275; Wicklow Mountains, 124–125
Cash: See Money
Cashel (town): 153; eating, 154–155; sleeping, 154
Cashel, Rock of: See Rock of Cashel
Castlebar: 345
Castle Cove: 227
Castles: architecture, 462–463; Ashford Castle, 341, 344; Blarney Castle, 200–201; Bunratty Castle, 282; Carrickfergus Castle, 389–390; Desmond Castle (Kinsale), 186; Dublin Castle, 46, 59–60; Dunguaire Castle, 301–302, 320; Dunluce Castle, 416–417; Glenveagh Castle, 447–448; Kilkenny Castle, 138; Leamaneh Castle, 298–299; Lynch’s Castle (Galway), 309; Minard Castle, 251–252; O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer), 334; Trim Castle, 120–121
Castletownbere: 211
Cathedral of St. Nicholas (Galway): 312–313
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford): 165
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Cell (mobile) phones: 10, 520–521, 524–528
Celtic and Prehistoric Museum (Ventry): 270
Celts (Celtics): 16, 19, 49, 51–54, 244, 252, 270, 274, 454–456, 477
Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 195, 443
Ceol na hInse (Ennis): 288–289
Chaplin, Charlie: 224
Charles Fort (Kinsale): 181
Chester Beatty Library (Dublin): 46, 60–62
Chorister’s Hall Medieval Museum (Waterford): 163–164
Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin): 63–64, 82
Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford): 165–166
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 464–465; Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford), 165; Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin), 63–64, 82; Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford), 165–166; First Derry Presbyterian Church, 426–427; Holy Cross Church (Kenmare), 209; Kilmalkedar church, 275–276; Long Tower Church (Derry), 429, 439; St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore), 328; St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny), 138; St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer), 334; St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry), 438–439; St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore), 328; St. James’ Church (Dingle), 255–256; St. Mary’s Church (Dingle), 246; St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (Dublin), 40; St. Nicholas Cathedral (Galway), 312–313; St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway), 309, 315; St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin), 64–65
Claddagh (Galway): 310
Claddagh Records (Dublin): 65–66, 79
Clare, County: 281–302; map, 282
Clare, Mary Francis: 208
Clare Museum (Ennis): 286
Clark (Harry) Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 246–247
Cliffs of Moher: 291–293, 294; tours, 283, 286
Clochans (beehive huts): 234, 271, 274, 457
Clogher Head: 273
Clontarf: 102
Clothing sizes: 557
Cnoc Fola: 449
Coastal Path (Bangor): 398
Cobblestone Pub (Dublin): 73
Coffin ships: 349; Dunbrody, 172–174; Jeanie Johnston, 72
Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas (Galway): 309, 315
Collins, Michael: 52–53, 59, 63, 78, 201–202, 286, 470
Collins Barracks (Dublin): 77
Columba, Saint (Colmcille): 327, 426, 428, 443, 457
Columbanus, Saint: 457
Communication: 520–531
Confiance, MV (Belfast): 386
Cong Abbey: 341
Connemara: 340–354; bus tours, 339–340; map, 342–343; self-guided driving tour, 340–354
Connemara National Park: 354
Connemara Regional Airport: 338
Connolly Station (Dublin): 27–28, 95; sleeping near, 87
Consulates: 553–554
Coomakesta Pass: 224
Cork, County: 176–202; map, 177
Cork Airport: 198
Cormac’s Chapel (Rock of Cashel): 148–150
Corran Binne: 452–453
Corrib River: 310–311
Costs of trip: 5–8
Cottage rentals: overview, 514–515
Country houses: Avondale House, 131; Derrynane House, 227–229; Gardens of Powerscourt, 126–127; Kylemore Abbey, 353–354; Mount Stewart House, 400–401; Muckross House, 216–218; Rothe House (Kilkenny), 140
County Antrim: 402–419
County Clare: 281–302; map, 282
County Cork: 176–202; map, 177
County Donegal: 420–421, 443–453; map, 446–447; self-guided driving tour, 444–453. See also Derry
County Kerry: 203–280
County Kilkenny: 135–145
County Mayo: 339–356; map, 342–343
County Tipperary: 135, 145–155
County Wexford: 156, 168–175; map, 169
Court House Pub (Dingle): 245, 255
Craggaunowen Open-Air Folk Museum: 287
Croagh Patrick: 349–350
Croke Park Stadium (Dublin): 77, 78, 79
Cromwell, Oliver: 64, 138, 160, 170, 171, 208, 251–252, 304, 334, 462–463
Crooke: 171
Croppies Acre (Dublin): 77
Cross of Cong: 55
Cross of Murdock: 117–118, 478
Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast): 385–386, 393
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Crystal: 253; Waterford Crystal, 159–161
Cultra: 387–389
Currachs: 269, 271, 288, 326, 554
Curragh Racecourse: 133
Currency and exchange: 494–495, 497; Northern Ireland, 361, 365, 497; Republic of Ireland, 16, 497
Cushendall: 419
Customs regulations: 500
Dance: step dancing, in Galway, 313–314. See also Ceilidh
DART (Dublin): 32, 97–98, 103–104
Declan, Saint: 199
De Gaulle, Charles: 227
Department stores, in Dublin: 79
Derry: 421–442; eating, 441–442; helpful hints, 423–424; history of, 426–427, 431; maps, 422, 430; nightlife, 439; self-guided walks, 425–436; sights, 436–439; sleeping, 440–441; tourist information, 423; tours, 424; transportation, 423, 442
Derrybeg: 449
Derry Guild Hall: 437
Derrynane House: 227–229
Derry Walls: 425–429
Desmond Castle (Kinsale): 186
De Valera, Eamon: 52–53, 59, 73–74, 471
Dick Mack’s Pub (Dingle): 246, 254–255
Dingle Bay Charters: 242–243
Dingle Brewing Company: 248
Dingle Crystal: 253
Dingle Harbor: 238, 246, 247, 248, 268
Dingle Hillwalking Club: 240
Dingle Horse Riding: 249
Dingle Peninsula: 236–280; maps, 240–241, 267; self-guided tour, 266–276; vs. Ring of Kerry, 226
Dingle Pitch & Putt: 250
Dingle Town: 237–266; eating, 261–266; helpful hints, 238–240; history of, 244; maps, 258–259, 263; nightlife, 254–256; self-guided walk, 243–246; shopping, 253; sights/activities, 246–252; sleeping, 256–261; tourist information, 238; tours, 241–243; transportation, 238, 266
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Dinosaurs: 225, 231, 232, 386–387
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Distilleries: See Whiskey
Divorce: 476
Dog (greyhound) racing: 79, 314
Donegal, County: 420–421, 443–453; map, 446–447; self-guided driving tour, 444–453. See also Derry
Doolin: 293–296; ferries, 293, 337–338
Doolin Cliff Walk: 294
Doo Lough Valley: 350–351
Driminaught: 447
Driving: See Car travel
Drombeg Stone Circle: 184, 461
Druid Theatre (Galway): 309
Dublin: 22–96; at a glance, 46–47; arrival in, 27–30; eating, 88–94; entertainment, 80–82; excursion areas, 97–134; helpful hints, 30–31; itineraries, 23–24; layout of, 25–26; maps, 24–25, 27, 38, 44–45, 68–69, 84–85, 90–91; self-guided walk, 37–42; shopping, 79–80; sights, 42–79; sleeping, 82–88; tourist information, 26–27; tours, 33–36; transportation, 27–30, 32–33, 94–96
Dublin Bay: 97–107
Dublin City Hall: 63
Dubliner, meeting a: 30–31, 59
Dublin Historical Walking Tour: 33–34, 46
Dublin Literary Pub Crawl: 34
Dublin Little Museum: 59
Dublin Pass: 27
Dublin’s Smithfield Village: 72–73
Dublin Writers Museum: 47, 66–68
Dún Aenghus (Inishmore): 323, 326–327
Dunbeg Fort: 271
Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross): 172–174
Dunfanaghy: 451
Dunfanaghy Workhouse: 449–451
Dunganstown: 172
Dunguaire Castle: 301–302, 320
Dun Laoghaire: 26, 97–102; eating, 101–102; helpful hints, 99–100; maps, 98–99; sights/activities, 100–101; sleeping, 101; transportation, 29, 96, 97–99
Dunluce Castle: 416–417
Dunluce Centre (Portrush): 406–407
Dunquin: 272
Eask Tower (Dingle): 246, 249, 269
Easter Uprising (1916): 39–40, 52, 58–59, 384, 469–470; Garden of Remembrance (Dublin), 41–42; guided walking tour, of Dublin, 34–35; Memorial (Dingle), 243–244
Eating: 515–518; budgeting, 8; online reviews, 516; tipping, 499. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Economy: 472–476; Northern Ireland, 361; Republic of Ireland, 18
Electricity: 494
E-mail: 529. See also specific destinations
Embassies: 553–554
Emigration: Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 172–174; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin), 72; Queenstown Story (Cobh), 196
Ennis: 284–291; eating, 290; map, 285; nightlife, 288–289; sights, 286–287; sleeping, 289–290
Enniscorthy: 174–175
Ennis Friary: 286–287
Enniskerry: 126–127
Ennistymon: 296
Entertainment: budgeting, 8. See also Ceilidh; Music; Theater
Enya (musician): 444
Evolution in Ireland: 231
Exchange rates: 497
Eyre Square (Galway): 304, 311–312
Falls Road (Belfast): 381–382
Famine: See Great Potato Famine
Far and Away (movie): 270, 271, 550
Father Ted (TV show): 333
Ferries: 536; Aran Islands, 296, 336–338; Belfast, 395–396; Blasket Islands, 242, 277; Doolin, 293, 296, 337–338; Dublin, 29, 96; map, 532–533; Rathlin Island, 418; Skellig Michael, 233–234
Festivals: 554–556; Dingle, 238–239; Dublin, 30; Galway, 305; Inishmore, 324; Portrush, 404; Tralee, 278, 556
Field, The (movie): 351
Films, recommended: 550–551. See also specific films
First Derry Presbyterian Church: 426–427
Fishing: Cong, 341; Dingle, 243; Howth, 104, 105l Ring of Kerry, 224; Trim, 120
Flag: Northern Ireland, 361; Republic of Ireland, 18
Folk music: See Music
Food: See Eating; Markets
Football: See Gaelic football
Four Courts (Dublin): 37
Foyle River: 421
France: ferries, 96
Francis Bacon Studio (Dublin): 71
Free Derry Corner: 428, 434–435
Fungie the Dolphin (Dingle): 247, 248
Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA): 78, 468–469; Museum (Dublin), 47, 77
Gaelic language: 19, 481–485; County Donegal, 450; Dingle Peninsula, 265; place names, 483–484; pleasantries, 484; political terms, 485; pub and music words, 484–485
Gaiety Theatre (Dublin): 80
Gallarus Oratory: 274–275
Galway: 303–320; eating, 318–320; helpful hints, 305, 308; history of, 304; itineraries, 304; map, 306–307; nightlife, 315; sights, 309–314; sleeping, 316–318; tourist information, 305; tours, 308–309; transportation, 305, 320
Galway Arts Festival: 305, 555
Galway City Museum: 310
Galway Oyster Festival: 305, 556
Garden of Remembrance (Dublin): 41–42
Gardens of Powerscourt: 126–127
Garnish Island: 210
Genealogical research: 57, 140, 194–195, 196–197, 443
General Post Office (Dublin): 39–40
Geography: Northern Ireland, 360; Republic of Ireland, 18
George Best Belfast City Airport: 395
Georgian House, no. 29 (Dublin): 47, 58
Ghost Walk Tour (Kinsale): 180
Giant’s Causeway: 412–415; Visitors Centre, 412–413
Glacier Lake: 222
Glebe Stone Circle: 461
Glenariff: 419
Glenbrook: 197–198
Glencree: 127
Glendalough: 124, 127–131; map, 128
Glenmacnass Waterfall: 126
Glens of Antrim: 418–419
Glenveagh Castle and National Park: 447–448
Glór Irish Music Centre (Ennis): 288
Gogarty’s Pub (Dublin): 81
Golden Mile (Belfast): 385–386
Golf: Ballyferriter, 251; Dingle, 250; Kenmare, 209; Portrush, 406
Gortahork: 449
Government: 472–473, 475–476; Northern Ireland, 361; Republic of Ireland, 18
Grafton Street (Dublin): 46, 58; eating, 89–92; shopping, 79
Grand Opera House (Belfast): 385
Gravity Bar (Dublin): 76–77
Gray, John: 39
Great Blasket Centre: 277–278
Great Blasket Island: 276–278; sleeping, 261
Great houses: See Country houses
Great Potato Famine (1845–49): 74, 208, 273, 297–298, 344, 349, 350–351, 387, 467–468; Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 172–174; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin), 72; Strokestown Park National Famine Museum, 355–356
Great Western Greenway: 347
Gresham Hotel (Dublin): 40–41
Grey Point Fort (Bangor): 398
Grianan Aileach Ring Fort: 445–446
Griffith, Arthur: 53
Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 547; updates, 11, 31, 373, 548
Guided tours: See Tours
Guinness Storehouse (Dublin): 47, 75–77
Guinness World Records: 76
Gweedore: 449
Hall of the Red Earl (Galway): 310
Hands Across the Divide (Derry): 438
Ha’ Penny Bridge (Dublin): 37, 66
Harbour Road (Portrush): eating, 409
Harry Clark Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 246–247
Hawk Walk: 301
Healy Pass: 210
Henry, Paul: 479
Henry Street (Dublin): shopping, 79
Heritage Card: 502–503
Heritage Island Explorer Touring Guide: 503–504
Heuston Station (Dublin): 27–28, 94
Hiking (walks): Ardmore, 199; Bangor, 398; the Burren, 283; Cliffs of Moher, 294; Connemara National Park, 354; Croagh Patrick, 349–350; Dingle, 239–240, 248, 249; Giant’s Causeway, 413; Glendalough, 128; Glenveagh National Park, 448; Horn Head, 453; Howth, 105–106; Inisheer, 334; Inishmore, 327–329; Kenmare, 209; Kilkenny, 137; Killarney National Park, 218; Kinsale, 180–181, 186; Mount Errigal, 449; Skellig Michael, 234–235; Trim, 121–122; Westport, 347
History: 454–476
Holidays: 554–556
Holy Cross Church (Kenmare): 209
Holyhead: ferries, 96
Hook Head: ferries, 169
Hook Head Lighthouse: 169, 171
Hore Abbey: 151
Horn Head: 452–453
Horseback riding: Kenmare, 209; Ventry, 249–250, 270; Westport, 347
Horse racing: 133; Galway Races, 305, 555, 556
Horses, at Irish National Stud: 131–134
Hostels: overview, 514. See also specific destinations
Hotel Europa (Belfast): 385, 390
Hotels: overview, 506–509, 513–514; rates and deals, 505–506; reservations, 510–511. See also specific destinations
Howth: 102–107; eating, 106–107; map, 103; sights/activities, 104–106; sleeping, 106
Hugh Lane Gallery (Dublin): 47, 70–71
Inch Strand (Dingle): 252
Inisheer Island: 322, 332–336; ferries, 336–338; map, 333
Inishmaan Island: 322
Inishmore Island: 322–332; eating, 331–332; entertainment, 329; ferries, 336–338; maps, 323, 331; sights/activities, 326–329; sleeping, 329–330; tourist information, 324; tours, 325–326; transportation, 325
International Pan Celtic Festival (Derry): 554
Internet access: 529. See also specific destinations
Internet calls: 527
Internet security: 529–530
IRA: See Irish Republican Army
Ireland School of Falconry (Cong): 344
Irish dancing: step dancing, in Galway, 313–314. See also Ceilidh
Irish Ferries: 29, 96, 534, 536
Irish Film Institute (Dublin): 66
Irish football: See Gaelic football
“Irish fry” breakfast: 509, 515
Irish Handmade Glass Company (Waterford): 159
Irish language: See Gaelic language
Irish music: See Music
Irish National Heritage Park (Wexford): 174
Irish National Stud: 131–134
Irish Rebellion (1798): 22, 73, 228, 466; National 1798 Centre (Enniscorthy), 174–175
Irish Republican Army (IRA): 53, 358–359, 364, 381, 382, 468, 470
Irish-Yankee vocabulary: 486–491
Iveragh Peninsula: See Ring of Kerry
James Fort (Kinsale): 186
James Joyce Cultural Centre (Dublin): 68–70
James Joyce Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire): 100
Japanese Gardens (Kildare): 133–134
Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin): 72
Jerpoint Abbey: 143–144
JFK Arboretum (Wexford): 172
John F. Kennedy Park (Galway): 311–312
John Weldon Jewellers (Dingle): 253
Joyce, James: 59, 67, 70, 481; Bloomsday (Dublin), 30, 554; Cultural Centre (Dublin), 68–70; Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire), 100
Joyce, William: 311
Keating, Sean: 479
Kells Priory: 144–145
Kenmare: 203–215; eating, 214; helpful hints, 204, 206; history of, 208; map, 205; nightlife, 209–210; sights, 207, 209; sleeping, 210–213; tourist information, 204; tours, 206; transportation, 215
Kenmare Ancient Stone Circle: 207, 209
Kenmare Golf Club: 209
Kenmare Heritage Centre: 207
Kenmare Lace and Design Centre: 207
Kennedy, John F.: 171–172, 173, 311–312
Kennedy Homestead (County Wexford): 171–172
Kennedy Park (Galway): 311–312
Kerry, County: 203–280
Kerry, Ring of: See Ring of Kerry
Kerry County Museum (Tralee): 278–279
Kilfenora: 297–298
Kilkenny: 135–143; eating, 142–143; map, 139; nightlife, 140–141; sights, 138–140; sleeping, 141–142; tourist information, 136; transportation, 136–137, 143
Kilkenny, County: 135–145
Kilkenny Castle: 138
Kilkenny Design Centre: 138
Killarney: 215–216
Killarney National Park: 218–219
Killarney Outlet Centre: 215
Killary Harbor: 351
Killeany: 328
Killybegs: 452
Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin): 46, 73, 75
Kilmalkedar church: 275–276
Kilmurvey (Inishmore): 327, 328
Kilronan (Inishmore): 322–326; eating, 331–332; entertainment, 329; map, 331; sights, 326; sleeping, 329–330
Kinsale: 177–192; eating, 189–191; helpful hints, 178–179; history of, 184–185; maps, 177, 182–183; sights, 180–187; sleeping, 187–189; tourist information, 178; tours, 179–180; transportation, 178, 191–192
Kinsale Regional Museum: 187
Kinsale Rugby Sevens Tournament: 178
Kinvarra: 301–302
Kissane Sheep Farm: 219
Knock: 355
Knowth: 110, 113–114, 476; tours, 109–110; transportation, 111
Kylemore Abbey: 353–354
Lace (lacemaking): 207, 208; Kenmare Lace and Design Centre, 207
Ladies View: 218–219
Lagan Boat Company (Belfast): 376
Lagan Legacy (Belfast): 386
Language: See Gaelic language
“Latin Quarter” (Galway): 309–311
Laundry: 513. See also specific destinations
Leacanabuaile Ring Fort: 224–225, 227, 232
Leamaneh Castle: 298–299
Leenane: 351
Leenane Sheep and Wool Centre: 351
Leinster House (Dublin): 56
Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 72
Letterfrack: 354
Lindbergh, Charles: 272
Linen Hall Library (Belfast): 385
Lisbeth Mulcahy Weaver (Dingle): 253
Liscannor: 293
Lisdoonvarna: 296
Lispole: 252
Literature: 70, 480–481, 549–550; Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, 34; Dublin Writers Museum, 47, 66–68. See also specific writers
Little Museum of Dublin: 59
Liverpool: ferries, 396
Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Londonderry: See Derry
Long’s Horseriding Centre (Ventry): 249–250, 270
Long Tower Church (Derry): 429, 439
Looscaunagh Lough: 219
Lord Ventry Manor House (Dingle): 246, 268
Lough Tay: 127
Lough Veagh: 447–448
Louisburgh: 350
LUAS (Dublin): 32–33
Lusitania: 185, 187, 192, 194, 196
Lynch’s Castle (Galway): 309
Lyric Theatre (Belfast): 387
Macroom: 202
“Magdalene laundries”: 314
Mail: 530–531. See also specific destinations
Mansions: See Country houses
Maps: to buy, 548–549; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Marcie Regan’s Pub (Trim): 122, 124
Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 100
Markets: Belfast, 372; Dingle Town, 240; Dublin, 40, 80; Dunfanaghy, 451; Dun Laoghaire, 102; Galway, 305, 309; Howth, 107; Kenmare, 204; Kilkenny, 137; Kinsale, 179; Macroom, 202
Matchmaking Festival (Lisdoonvarna): 296
Matthew, Theobald: 40
Mayo, County: 339–356; map, 342–343
Meagher, Thomas Francis: 163, 165
Medical help: 493
Medieval banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 301–302, 320
Meeting House Square (Dublin): 66
Megalithic art: See Archaeological sites
Mellifont Abbey: 116–117
Mellon Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 195, 443
Merrion Square (Dublin): 47, 57–58
Messenger Bike Rally (Dublin): 30
Metric conversions: 556–557
Midleton Distillery: 199–200
Military Road over Sally Gap: 127
Millennium Bridge (Dublin): 37
Millennium Forum (Derry): 439
Milltown Cemetery (Belfast): 382
Milltown House (Dingle): 260, 268
Minard Castle: 251–252
Moher: See Cliffs of Moher
Monasteries: See Abbeys and monasteries
Money: 494–500; budgeting, 5–8; Northern Ireland, 361, 365, 497; Republic of Ireland, 16, 497. See also specific destinations
Money-saving tips: 494; Belfast, 372; Dublin, 27, 30, 32; hotels, 505–506, 512; sightseeing passes, 502–504
Monks’ Fishing Hut (Cong): 341
Moore Street Market (Dublin): 40, 80
Morrison, Van: 376
Mountain Man (Dingle): 239–240
Mount Errigal: 449
Mount Stewart House: 400–401
Movies, recommended: 550–551. See also specific movies
Muckross House: 216–218
Muckross Traditional Farms: 218
Mulranny: 347
Murals: See Bogside Murals; Political murals
Murrisk: 349
Museum of Free Derry: 433–434
Museum of Treasures (Waterford): 162
Museum of Vintage Radio (Howth): 104–105
Music: 518–520; glossary of Gaelic terms, 484–485; Belfast, 393; Cashel, 153; Derry, 439; Dingle Town, 245, 253–256; Doolin, 293–294; Dublin, 73, 80–81, 89; guided tours, 34, 46; Dun Laoghaire, 100; Ennis, 288–289; Galway, 313–314, 315; Inishmore, 324, 329; Kenmare, 209–210; Kilkenny, 140–141; Kinsale, 191; Lisdoonvarna, 296; Portmagee, 230; Portrush, 409; Tralee, 278; Waterford, 167–168; Westport, 348
Napoleonic Tower (Inisheer): 334
Nassau Street (Dublin): shopping, 79
National 1798 Centre (Enniscorthy): 174–175
National Concert Hall (Dublin): 80
National Gallery (Dublin): 47, 56–57, 476
National Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 72
National Library (Dublin): 57
National Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 100
National Museum: Archaeology (Dublin): 46, 49–56; map, 50
National Museum: Decorative Arts and History (Dublin): 47, 77
National Museum: Natural History (Dublin): 57
National Transport Museum (Howth): 105
Neale: 345
Newgrange: 110, 112–113, 476; tours, 109–110; transportation, 111
Newmills Corn and Flax Mills: 446–447
New Ross: 172–174
Newtown: 121–122
Nightlife: budgeting, 8. See also Ceilidh; Music; Pubs; Theater
Nomads (Travellers): about, 352
North Down Museum (Bangor): 398
Northern Ireland: 358–453; at a glance, 7; almanac, 360–361; currency, 361, 365, 497; map, 359; overview, 358–359, 362–363, 465–472; political terminology, 364; safety, 363, 365. See also specific destinations
North Pier (Bangor): 398
Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House (Dublin): 47, 58
O2 Theatre (Dublin): 80
O’Brien, William Smith: 39
O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer): 334
O’Casey, Sean: 481
Oceanworld (Dingle): 247–248
O’Connell, Daniel: 39, 40, 51, 63, 116, 163, 355, 401, 467; biographical sketch, 228; Derrynane House, 227–229
O’Connell Bridge (Dublin): 37, 46
O’Connell Street (Dublin): 37–42, 47; map, 38
Odyssey, the (Belfast): 377
Old Bushmills Distillery: 415–416
Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin): 72–73
Old Mellifont Abbey: 116–117
Old Midleton Distillery: 199–200
Omagh: 443
O’Malley, Grace: 350
O’Neill, Hugh: 184–185, 459–460
Organized tours: See Tours
O’Shea’s Merchant Pub (Dublin): 81
Packing checklist: 559
Palace Bar (Dublin): 81
Parnell, Charles Stewart: 41, 73, 131, 468
Parnell Square (Dublin): 41; sleeping near, 87–88
Patrick, Saint: 16, 51, 55, 64, 108, 116, 148, 456–457; Croagh Patrick, 349–350; Day, 30, 554
Pavilion Theatre (Dun Laoghaire): 100
Peace Bridge (Derry): 421, 437–438
Peace Wall (Belfast): 381–382
Peace Wall (Derry): 429
Pearse, Patrick: 39, 48, 52, 384, 469
Peat bogs: about, 351–353
Penn, William: 202
Performing arts: See Ceilidh; Music; Theater
Phone numbers, useful: 553–554
Phones: 520–530
Pickie Fun Park (Bangor): 398
Plain of Tipperary: 150–151
Playhouse Theatre (Derry): 439
Polish immigration: 474
Political Gaelic terms: 485
Political murals: about, 433; Belfast, 374, 380–382. See also Bogside Murals
Population: Northern Ireland, 360; Republic of Ireland, 18
Porterhouse (Dublin): 81
Portrush: 403–410; eating, 408–409; map, 405; sights/activities, 406–407; sleeping, 407–408; transportation, 404, 410
Portrush Recreation Grounds: 406
Post offices: 530–531; General Post Office (Dublin), 39–40. See also specific destinations
Potato Famine (1845–49): See Great Potato Famine
Poulnabrone Dolmen: 299
Power & Glory, The (Trim): 122
Powerscourt Gardens: 126–127
Powerscourt Waterfall: 127
Prehistoric sites: See Archaeological sites
Pubs: 517–518; glossary of Gaelic terms, 484–485; Ardmore, 199; Ballyferriter, 273; Belfast, 374, 393; Cong, 341; Derry, 439; Dingle Town, 245, 254–255; Doolin, 294, 295; Dublin, 73, 81–82, 89, 92; guided tours, 34, 46; Dunfanaghy, 451; Dun Laoghaire, 102; Ennis, 289, 290; Galway, 315; Howth, 106–107; Inisheer, 335–336; Inishmore, 324, 329; Kenmare, 209–210, 214; Kilfenora, 298; Kilkenny, 140–141; Kinsale, 191; Leenane, 351; Lisdoonvarna, 296; Portmagee, 230; Portrush, 409; Trim, 122, 124; Waterford, 167–168; Westport, 348
Puck Fair: 555
Puicin Wedge Tomb: 252
Queenstown Story (Cobh): 196
Queen’s University (Belfast): 373, 387, 390
Quiet Man, The (movie): 341, 344, 550
Raidió teilifís Éireann (RTE): 20
Rail passes: 531, 534–535, 548
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rathlin Boathouse Visitor Centre: 418
Rathlin Island: 417–418
Rathlin Island Seabird Centre: 418
Reader feedback: 12
Reasc Monastery: 273–274
Rebel Tours of Dublin: 35
Red Hand of Ulster: 388
Reginald’s Tower (Waterford): 162–163
Rental properties: overview, 514–515
Republic of Ireland: 16–356; at a glance, 6–7; almanac, 18; map, 17; overview, 16–21, 465–472. See also specific destinations
Resources from Rick Steves: 547–548
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Ring forts: See Archaeological sites
Ring of Kerry: 220–232; map, 222–223; ring forts, 224–225; self-guided driving tour, 222–227; tours, 206; vs. Dingle Peninsula, 226. See also Kenmare
River Valley Riding Stables (Kenmare): 209
Rock of Cashel: 145–153; maps, 136, 146; self-guided tour, 147–153
Romans, ancient: 16, 411, 455, 456
Rose of Tralee International Festival: 278, 556
Rossaveel: ferries, 336
Rossville Street (Derry): 428
Rothe House (Kilkenny): 140
Roundabouts: about, 542–543
Roundstone: 340
Roundwood: 127
Royal Portrush Golf Club: 406
Ryan’s Daughter (movie): 244, 252, 260, 268, 272–273, 550
Safety, in Northern Ireland: 363, 365
Saints: See specific saints
St. Augustine Chapel (Derry): 428
St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore): 328
St. Bridget’s Holy Well (Liscannor): 293
St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny): 138
St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer): 334
St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry): 438–439
St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore): 328
St. Fiachra’s Garden (Kildare): 134
St. Finian’s Bay: 224–225; sleeping, 229
St. George’s Market (Belfast): 372
St. James’ Church (Dingle): 255–256
St. John’s Eve Bonfire Night (Inishmore): 324, 555
St. Joseph’s Convent and Díseart (Dingle): 246–247
St. Kevin’s Cross: 130
St. Mary’s Abbey (Howth): 105
St. Mary’s Church (Dingle): 246
St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (Dublin): 40
St. Nicholas Cathedral (Galway): 312–313
St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway): 309, 315
St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin): 64–65
St. Patrick’s Cross (Rock of Cashel): 148
St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin): 47, 58–59; sleeping near, 85–87
St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (Dublin): 58, 92
Sally Gap: 127
Salmon Weir Bridge (Galway): 313
Salthill: 313; eating, 319; sleeping, 318
Sandycove: 97, 100; sleeping, 101
Sandy Row (Belfast): 382
Scilly Walk (Kinsale): 186
Sciuird Archaeology Tours (Sciuird): 241–242
Scotland: 411; ferries, 395–396
Scott, Robert Falcon: 250–251
Scuba diving: 418
Seasons: 9
Seven Churches (Inishmore): 327
Shackleton, Ernest: 250–251
Shankill Road (Belfast): 382
Shannon Airport: 286, 291, 546–547
Shaw, George Bernard: 70, 233, 480
Shelbourne Hotel (Dublin): 88–89
Shelbourne Park (Dublin): 79
Shopping: budgeting, 8; clothing sizes, 557; hours, 494; VAT refunds, 499–500. See also Crystal; Lace; Markets; and specific destinations
Sightseeing: at a glance, 6–7; budgeting, 8; passes, 502–504; planning tips, 500–502; priorities, 8. See also specific sights and destinations
SIM cards: 527–528
Sinn Fein: 52–53, 361, 364, 381, 469–470
Siopa Ceoil (Dingle): 253, 256
Skellig Experience Centre (Valentia): 225, 230, 232
Skelligs Chocolate Factory: 225
Slea Head: 271–272; biking, 249; eating, 266; sleeping, 261
Sleep code: 507
Sleeping: 504–515; budgeting, 8; rates and deals, 505–506; reservations, 9, 510–511; types of accommodations, 506–515; vouchers, 512. See also specific destinations
“Sleeping Giant”: 273
Smartphones: 10, 520–521, 524–528
Smerwick Harbor: 276
Smithfield Village (Dublin): 72–73
Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny: 140
Somme Heritage Centre: 400
Sounds of History Museum (Rock of Cashel): 153
South Pole Inn (Dingle): 251, 252
Spanish Arch (Galway): 310
Spanish Armada: 177, 272, 387, 417, 437
Special events: See Festivals
Spike Island (Cobh): 194
Sports: See Biking; Fishing; Gaelic Athletic Association; Gaelic football; Golf; Hiking; Hurling
Staigue Ring Fort: 223, 224–225, 227
Steeple Sessions (Dublin): 80–81
Step dancing, in Galway: 313–314
Steves, Andy, weekend tour packages: 36
Stone circles: about, 460–461. See also Archaeological sites
Storm Beach: 252
Strokestown Park National Famine Museum: 355–356
Strongbow: 63, 138, 160, 164, 165, 458
Surfing: 292–293
Swift, Jonathan: 64, 66, 67, 70, 466, 480
Synge, J. M.: 481
Tara, Hill of: 50–51, 116, 454
Taxes: VAT refunds, 499–500
Taxis: Belfast, 374; Dublin, 29, 33; tipping, 499. See also specific destinations
Telephone cards: 530
Telephone numbers, useful: 553–554
Telephones: 520–530
Temperatures, average monthly: 557
Temple Bar (Dublin): 46, 65–66; eating, 94; shopping, 79–80
Temple Bar Square (Dublin): 65
Theater: Belfast, 387; Derry, 439; Dublin, 80; Dun Laoghaire, 100; Ennis, 288–289; Galway, 309; Kilkenny, 141; Waterford, 166
Theatre Royal (Waterford): 166
Thurles: 155
Time zones: 493
Tipping: 499
Titanic: in Belfast, 366, 375–380, 389; in Cobh, 192, 193–196
Titanic Dock & Pump-House (Belfast): 380
Titanic Experience (Cobh): 195–196
Titanic Quarter (Belfast): 369, 376–380
Torc Waterfall: 218
Tory Island: 453
Tour guides: 10. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 492–493. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 548; Antrim Coast, 402–403; Belfast, 374–376; the Burren, 283–284; Cliffs of Moher, 283, 286; Cobh, 193–194; Connemara, 339–340; Derry, 424; Dingle Peninsula, 241–243; Dublin, 33–36; Ennis, 286; Galway, 308–309; Inishmore, 325–326; Kenmare, 206; Kilkenny, 137; Kinsale, 179–180; Knowth, 109–110; Ring of Kerry, 206; Rock of Cashel, 147; Trim, 119–120; Valley of the Boyne, 109–110; Waterford, 159; Wicklow Mountains, 125–126
Tower Museum Derry: 436–437
Traditional Irish music: See Music
Trad on the Prom (Galway): 313–314
Train travel: 531–535; Belfast, 369, 372, 373, 395; budgeting, 7; Dublin, 27–28, 94–95; map, 532–533. See also specific destinations
Tralee: 278–280
Transportation: 531–547; budgeting, 6–7; map, 532–533. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Ferries; Train travel; and specific destinations
Transport Museum (Cultra): 387–389
Transport Museum (Howth): 105
Travel insurance: 9–10
Travellers (nomads): about, 352
Trim: 118–124; eating, 123–124; map, 119; sights/activities, 120–122; sleeping, 122–123
Trim Castle: 120–121
Trinity College (Dublin): 42–45, 46, 48–49; sleeping, 84–85
Trinity Old Library (Dublin): 43–45, 46, 48–49
Trip costs: 5–8
Troubles, the: 359, 364, 380, 381, 429, 471–472
Twenty-Nine Georgian House (Dublin): 47, 58
Ulster American Folk Park (near Omagh): 443
Ulster Defense Association (UDA): 364
Ulster Folk Park and Transport Museum (Cultra): 387–389
Ulster Museum (Belfast): 386–387
Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF): 358, 362, 364, 388, 469
Valentia Heritage Museum: 232
Valentia Island: 225, 230, 232
Valley of the Boyne: 108–124, 476; map, 109; sights, 110–118; tours, 109–110. See also Trim
VAT refunds: 499–500
Ventry (town): 269–270
Ventry Bay: 269
Verbal Arts Centre (Derry): 429
Victoria Square (Belfast): 372; eating, 394
Vikings: 54–56, 160, 162–163, 233, 457–458; Dublinia (Dublin), 47, 64
Viking Splash Tours (1916): 36
Vinegar Hill: 175
Virgin Mary shrines: about, 355
Vocabulary, Irish-Yankee: 486–491
Waring Street (Belfast): 393–394
Waterford: 156–168; eating, 167–168; helpful hints, 159; history of, 160; map, 158; nightlife, 166; shopping, 159, 165; sights, 159–166; sleeping, 166–167; tourist information, 158–159; tours, 159; transportation, 168
Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre: 159–161
Waterford Museum of Treasures: 162
Watergate Theatre (Kilkenny): 158
Waterworld (Portrush): 406–407
Wellington Column (Trim): 118
West Kerry Craft Guild (Dingle): 253
West Pier (Howth): 104, 105, 106
Wexford, County: 168–175; map, 169
Whiskey: Dingle Distillery, 248; Old Bushmills Distillery, 415–416; Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin), 72–73; Old Midleton Distillery, 199–200
Wicklow Mountains: 124–131; map, 125; tours, 125–126
Wilde, Oscar: 57–58, 66, 67, 70, 480–481
Winehouse, Amy: 245
Worm Hole (Inishmore): 327–328
Writers Museum (Dublin): 47, 66–68
Yeats, William Butler: 57, 67, 70, 80, 105–106, 469–470, 480