GRILLED BREAD, A LOVE STORY
As a baker’s wife, I’m accustomed to making the most of day-old loaves. My husband, David Norman, has been baking bread for more than thirty years. We met when we were living in New York, and when he finished the night shift at Bouley Bakery, sometimes he’d walk across the Brooklyn Bridge to my apartment in the Heights to deliver a freshly baked loaf (I know, right?). These days, he’s the head baker (or dough puncher, as he likes to say) and partner at Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden in Austin. Although I’m certainly biased, his mad talent with flour, water, and yeast creates the sort of deeply flavored loaves that send people on Proustian journeys of giddy reflection. Needless to say, the cinematic version of our life together might be called It’s a Wonderful Loaf.
On most days, our “bread basket” (a painted wooden trough we purchased in Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, just across the Texas border) is an embarrassment of riches—piled with baguettes, crusty rounds of levain and sourdough, and dense, hearty loaves of walnut bread and rye.
While a bread basket can be forgettable, a platter of warm, fragrant slices of grilled bread makes its presence known. Rubbed while still warm with garlic (the ragged edges of the toasted bread release the aroma of the garlic’s fragrant oil), covered with a generous drizzle of your best extra-virgin olive oil (it should seep from the bread and pool on the plate), and finished with a sprinkle of flaky salt, it’s a sensual pleasure that surpasses the sum of its elemental parts.
When the rest of our pantry is mostly bare, the kids are “starving,” and we’re too tired to rustle up anything elaborate, I know I can make a quick and incredibly satisfying picnic dinner, as we call it, by pulling out bits and pieces (half wedges of cheese, olives, charcuterie, marinated and pickled vegetables), slicing up a day-old loaf, and firing up the grill. The mix-and-match results are, truthfully, among my favorite dinners.
When we’re looking for something warm and welcoming (and easy) for guests to munch on while gathering around the fire, we’ll serve grilled bread—a vehicle for whatever we have on hand, such as tapenade, luscious white bean puree, chèvre, avocado, butter and shaved watermelon radishes, or simply a scattering of fresh herbs. And when dinner is missing something to pull the other components together—meat drippings, creamy sauce, vinaigrette—grilled bread makes the meal (see ideas on this page).
How to Grill Bread
Start with sturdy loaf of day-old artisan bread. It has less moisture than a just-baked loaf, so it will toast better, and its flavor will be intensified by the heat of the fire. Also, anytime you reheat stale bread it actually reverses the staling process (caused by a change in the starch structure, called starch retrogradation) for a short time. Plus, it kills my husband when I toast a fresh loaf of bread. I love levain or miche, but any rustic or hearty country-style loaf that can hold its own against a char will work just fine. Cut the bread into ½-inch (1.3cm) slices, place them over a medium fire, and use tongs to flip the bread when grill marks appear and the bread is toasted, about 1 minute on each side. Swipe a halved clove of garlic, cut side down, over the top of the bread, drizzle with your best extra-virgin olive oil, and sprinkle with flaky salt, a few grinds of pepper, and a few fresh herbs (small whole leaves or chiffonade), if desired.
Leftover Grilled Bread = Grilled Bread Crumbs
If you’re lucky enough to have leftover slices of grilled bread, use them to make grilled bread crumbs, which will make any number of dishes more delicious. (In fact, you might just want to plan ahead and grill a few extra slices; wrap them in foil after they cool.) Break or crumble a few pieces of grilled bread into a food processor and process into a coarse mixture—don’t worry about making the crumbs uniform. At this point, simply moisten the crumbs with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, or flavor them with just about anything, including anchovies, fresh herbs, olives, sesame seeds, crumbled nori, gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes), or toasted nuts. Use grilled bread crumbs as a topping for pasta, any grilled or roasted vegetable, salads, or scrambled eggs. Unflavored bread crumbs can be stored in an airtight container for 3 or 4 days; flavored bread crumbs should be used immediately or stored in the fridge for 1 day.
Texas Toast
Grilled bread typically suggests a rustic loaf, but I also love to toast thick slabs of—ideally day-old—pain de mie, or any white bread that’s enriched with butter and eggs (such as brioche), to make Texas toast. These breads brown faster than rustic varieties, so watch them closely and keep your tongs in hand. With a lightly golden crust and a tender, chewy middle, they make a crispy, comforting base for soft-boiled eggs, leftover brisket and barbecue sauce, Sunday’s chuck roast, a scoop of tuna or chicken salad, or smashed avocados and chile flakes. The kids love it with a smear of Nutella or, every now and then, marshmallow cream and sprinkles.
GRILLED BREAD TOPPINGS THAT MAKE A MEAL
When crowded with a couple well-chosen ingredients, sidekick toasts become your next favorite lunch, dinner, or hearty snack.
SOFTENED BUTTER + JUICE FROM A GRILLED LEMON + HERB-BASTED SMOKED SALMON (THIS PAGE)
OLIVE TAPENADE + GRILLED EGGPLANT + FRESH MOZZARELLA
FETA (PUREED WITH OLIVE OIL AND RED PEPPER FLAKES) + GRILLED RIBBONS OF CROOKNECK SQUASH + SMALL FRESH MINT LEAVES
KEWPIE MAYO + SHAVED PARMESAN + GRILLED MACKEREL + THINLY SLICED SERRANO
HUMMUS + RINGS OF PICKLED PEPPERS + MICROGREENS
CHOPPED CHICKEN + GRILLED LEMON MAYO (THIS PAGE)
SLICED POTATOES + DILL MAYO + PICKLED RED ONIONS (THIS PAGE)
Creamy Kale Toasts
Makes enough for 8 toasts, with leftovers
Grilling stems of kale and other sturdy greens is a quick, easy process that dramatically transforms their taste and texture. The leaves won’t char evenly, and that’s fine—you want a mix of doneness that ranges from blackened and crackly to deep green and tender. The smoky flavor of this luscious spread intensifies overnight—the depth of flavor will surprise and delight you—so you’ll be happy to have leftovers to slather on bagels or toasted walnut bread. This spread can also be made with other greens (collards, mustard, turnip) and other leftover vegetables (grilled and finely chopped fennel, celery, carrots). Don’t wash the kale unless you absolutely must—it crisps much better if the leaves are completely dry.
1 cup (240ml) full-fat Greek yogurt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Pinch of red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (50g) grated aged goat cheese (such as Cypress Grove Midnight Moon)
1 bunch lacinato kale (12 ounces/340g)
8 thick slices levain or another rustic Italian bread
1 clove garlic, halved lengthwise
Flaky salt
1. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
2. In a large bowl, combine the yogurt with the olive oil, lemon juice and zest, and red pepper flakes. Season with kosher salt and pepper and then fold in the cheese.
3. Working in batches, grill the kale leaves perpendicular to the grates so they won’t fall through. Cook over direct heat until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a cutting board and cool slightly. Use a knife to trim the thick ribs from each leaf and then finely chop the kale leaves. Fold into the yogurt mixture.
4. Grill the bread over direct heat until charred, about a minute on each side. While still warm, rub 1 side of each toast with the cut side of the garlic. Top each toast with a slather of the creamy kale and arrange the toasts on a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with flaky salt.
Crackly Rosemary Flatbread
Makes six 10-inch (25cm) rounds
For years my friend Molly Meloy has had this theory that the most blissful stretch of each day is the golden evening hours between four and seven. I fully agree, because it plays to my sipping and snacking proclivities. My ideal combination for a predinner graze is a cracker-like flatbread served with a few creamy and piquant toppings, such as tapenade, hummus, Smoky Eggplant Dip (this page), and vegetable relishes. This recipe, adapted from one that appeared in an issue of Gourmet, can be changed up in countless ways—use thyme, oregano, parsley, or tarragon (or a combination), or add heat with toasted crushed peppercorns or crumbled dried chiles, fennel or cumin seeds, or spices. Once you make the dough, this flatbread is easy to knock out while you’re chatting with friends by the fire, as it cooks in just a few minutes.
3½ cups (440g) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons freshly chopped rosemary plus 2 sprigs
2 teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup (240ml) water
⅔ cup (160ml) olive oil, plus more for brushing
Flaky salt (optional)
Toppings of choice (see this page for ideas)
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, chopped rosemary, baking powder, and kosher salt. Make a well in center, then add the water and oil and gradually stir into the flour with a wooden spoon until a dough forms. Transfer the dough to a work surface (you won’t need additional flour) and knead gently 4 or 5 times until you have a smooth, supple round. Cover the dough with a clean kitchen towel and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Knead again, re-cover with the towel, and let rest for an additional 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Prepare a charcoal grill for one-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
3. Divide dough into 6 pieces and cover with a kitchen towel. On a lightly floured surface, roll out 1 piece of dough into a rustic 6- to 7-inch (15 to 18cm) round. Let the dough rest for a few minutes and then continue to roll into a 9- to 10-inch (23 to 25cm) round that’s about ¼ inch (6mm) thick. Lightly brush the top with oil and lightly press small clusters of fresh rosemary leaves on top. Use your hands to drape the dough onto the hot grates (quickly reshaping the round if it has lost its shape), close the grill, and cook until lightly charred on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Use tongs and your fingers to flip the flatbread, close the grill, and cook until charred and browned in spots, an additional minute or two. Transfer the flatbread to a rack to cool and finish with flaky salt, if desired. Repeat with the remaining rounds.
4. Break the flatbread into large shards or slather a round with your desired toppings. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.
A FEW FAVORITE FLATBREAD TOPPINGS
If I’m not using flatbread as a scoop, I like to slather the entire round or large shards with toppings. Here are a few favorite combinations.
GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE + FRESH OREGANO LEAVES
SMALL BOILED SHRIMP + QUARK + SHAVED FENNEL AND FENNEL FRONDS (OR SHAVED RADISHES)
SMOKED SALMON + HORSERADISH CREAM + CHOPPED FRESH DILL
LABNEH + SPICED SEED CRUNCH (SEE BELOW)
Spiced Seed Crunch
Sugar, a whiff of warm spices, and egg white transform a pretty mix of seeds into crunchy, addictive brittle that’s delicious as a topping for yogurt, creamy purees (like beet hummus), salads—and, no doubt, grilled flatbread. Heat the oven to 300°F (150°C) and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a bowl, whisk together 1 egg white, 3 tablespoons turbinado sugar, ½ teaspoon ras el hanout, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Add ¼ cup (50g) millet, ¼ cup (35g) black sesame seeds, and ¼ cup (35g) pumpkin seeds and toss to coat. Transfer mixture to baking sheet, letting excess egg white drip back into the bowl. Bake, tossing occasionally, until mixture is golden brown and fragrant, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Crispy Greek Pies with Dandelion & Feta
Makes about 12 pies
A savory pie packed with a mess of greens and sharp cheese is one of my favorite things in the world to eat. Naturally, I was quick to fire up the grill when I stumbled upon a version of this recipe in Mediterranean Vegetarian Feasts by Greek cookbook author Aglaia Kremezi. I’ll admit that making her dough was daunting, but trust me, with a little patience it rolls out into thin, supple sheets that are surprisingly easy to work with and cook into a delicate, crackly crust.
Phyllo Dough
3 cups (375g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (120ml) cold water, plus more as needed
¼ cup (60ml) olive oil, plus more for brushing
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
Cornstarch or rice flour, for dusting
Filling
2 bunches (about 12 ounces/340g) dandelion greens, ends and thick stems trimmed (or any combination of spinach, mustard, or other cooking greens)
Kosher salt
1 cup (150g) crumbled feta cheese, or ¾ cup (75g) grated Pecorino Romano or Asiago mixed with 3 tablespoons Greek yogurt
1 cup (40g) freshly chopped parsley
½ cup (25g) freshly chopped dill
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
Pinch of red pepper flakes (such as piquín)
Freshly ground black pepper
1. To make the phyllo dough, combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the cold water, olive oil, and vinegar. Mix at medium speed for about 5 minutes to obtain a smooth, soft dough. If the dough seems dry, add up to 3 tablespoons more water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, to make the filling, blanch the greens in generously salted boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain, rinse with cool water, squeeze dry, and chop fine. Combine the chopped greens, feta, parsley, dill, oregano, and red pepper flakes with a fork. Season with salt and black pepper to taste.
3. Give the dough a quick knead and divide into 6 pieces. Dust the dough with cornstarch, then roll each piece of dough as thinly as possible, gradually stretching it into a 16-inch (40cm) round. The trick to getting the dough to continue to stretch is to give it a few seconds of rest after every 3 or 4 rolls. Cut each round in half, dust with cornstarch, and stack off to the side.
4. Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill or ridged grill pan to high. Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
5. While the grill heats, assemble the pies. For each pie, lay 1 half-round phyllo on your work surface and brush with olive oil. Cover half the circle with about ¼ cup (60ml) filling. Fold the other side over and press down to seal the pie. It will be an imperfect, flat triangle with crimped edges. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling, placing finished triangles on a parchment-lined baking sheet kept in a cool place.
6. Brush the top and bottom of a pie with olive oil and cook over direct heat until golden and crisp (lowering the heat as necessary), 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and cook the other side the same way. Repeat with the remaining triangles. Serve right away, or wrap in foil and store at room temperature for a day or refrigerate for 2 to 3 days.
Pizza Dough & Inspired Pies
Makes six 10-inch (25cm) pizzas
I played with several doughs before falling for this one, a variation on the stellar crust that Nancy Silverton created for Mozza in Los Angeles. Made from a combination of flours with just a touch of sweetness, it’s easy to work with and bakes into a chewy, crackly crust with plenty of character. I prefer to make the dough the night before and allow it to rise overnight in the fridge, because a longer, slower fermentation develops complex flavor. With the long overnight bulk ferment, you don’t need to proof the dough at room temperature before grilling (bonus: colder dough is easier to wrangle).
Then, an hour before grilling, I fire up the grill, divide the dough into six rounds, and allow them to rest while I prep the toppings and make a salad. Before you start the pizza train (meaning drape the first crust over the grates), make sure that all hands are on deck and toppings are ready to roll. Grilled pizzas aren’t complicated, but they come together quickly, so the process is infinitely smoother if you’re super organized. Once those details are in place, you’re free to uncork a bottle of wine, focus on achieving perfectly charred crust, and enjoy the process—which is a lot of fun.
6 cups (750g) unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup (30g) whole wheat or rye flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon instant yeast
2½ cups (590ml) water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon barley malt syrup
Toppings of choice, including extra-virgin olive oil and flaky salt (see this page for ideas)
1. Combine both flours, the kosher salt, yeast, water, olive oil, and barley malt syrup in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix at low speed for about 8 minutes, until the dough begins to form a ball and pull away from the bowl. Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let rest for 20 minutes.
2. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and shape into a rustic square about ¼ inch (6mm) thick. Stretch and fold a flap from 1 corner into the middle, followed by the opposite corner, pushing them into the dough, then repeat with the 2 remaining corners. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let rest for another 30 minutes. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and fold again, as you did the first time. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
3. About 1 hour before grilling (or the morning before you plan to cook) remove the dough from the fridge and turn it onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 6 even-ish rounds. Tuck the edges of each round of dough under itself to form a tight ball. Place the rounds on a greased baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (or up to 12 hours) to allow the gluten to relax.
4. While you rest the dough, prepare your toppings and create a “pizza station” that includes everything you’ll need to finish the pies, including extra-virgin olive oil and flaky salt. About 45 minutes before grilling, prepare a charcoal grill for one-zone cooking and build a high fire, or heat a gas grill to high, until the temperature reaches about 600°F (315°C). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
5. When the dough is ready, generously flour your work surface with all-purpose flour and place 1 round of dough in the center. Dust the dough lightly with flour. Using your fingertips, gently tap the center of the dough to flatten it slightly. Pick up the dough, ball both fists, and with your fists facing your body, place the top edge of the dough on your fists so the round stretches downward against the backs of your hands, away from them. Move the circle of dough around your fists like the hands of a clock so the dough continues to stretch downward into a circle. When the dough has stretched to about 10 inches (25cm) in diameter, drape it over the preheated grill grates (quickly reshape the pizza if it has lost its shape) and grill 1 to 2 minutes uncovered (cover if using a gas grill), or until the bottom side is crisp and marked. Remove the crust from the grill and place it, ungrilled side down, onto a lightly oiled baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough rounds (closing the grill and allowing it to reheat to 450°F to 500°F/230°C to 206°C between pies). Then, when you’re ready to assemble the pies, top the grilled side of each crust pizza with the desired toppings and return to the grill. Cook 3 to 5 minutes, covered, or until the toppings are cooked and the cheese is melted.
6. When the pizza is done, slide tongs and/or a big spatula under the crust and transfer it to a cutting board. Let the pizza cool for a couple of minutes, then use a chef’s knife or pizza cutter to cut into wedges (4, 6, or 8) as desired.
Using a Pizza Stone
If you prefer to use a stone, you’ll want to preheat it after you spread out your coals (or while you’re preheating a gas grill) and stretch each crust just before assembly. Then place the round of dough on a peel dusted with flour or cornmeal, add toppings, gently slide the pizza onto stone, close the grill, and cook until the crust is blistered and crisp and the cheese has melted, 4 to 6 minutes.
Tarte Flambée (aka Alsatian pizza)
Makes four 10-inch (25cm) pizzas
Some version of this easy-to-love bacon and onion pizza has been a constant thread in my food history. I’ve enjoyed it as a bar snack in France, prepared it for happy guests on the ranch, and my husband, David, does a version at Easy Tiger to pair with Alsatian wines. Known as flammekueche in Alsatian and flammkuchen in German, tarte flambée is the simple, satisfying confluence of thin, crispy dough; a fresh, creamy cheese (such as fromage blanc or quark); onion; and smoked bacon. The elements are straightforward but benefit from a few aromatics and attention to detail, so I decided this pie warranted its own recipe. Serve the hot, crispy wedges (or squares) with cold Alsatian wine and a frisée salad with Dijon vinaigrette. Note that this recipe makes four pizzas, so you can double-wrap the two remaining rounds of dough and freeze for another time (thawed, stretched, dimpled, and topped with olive oil, fresh herbs, and flaky salt, it makes great focaccia). Or increase the amount of cheese topping as desired to make six—you’ll be happy to have leftovers.
4 rounds Pizza Dough (this page)
2 cups (475ml) fromage blanc
1 cup (240ml) crème fraîche
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Olive oil, for brushing
2 red onions, thinly sliced
8 ounces (225g) thick-sliced smoked bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips
Red pepper flakes
1. An hour before grilling (or the morning before you plan to cook), remove the pizza dough from the fridge and turn it onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 6 even-ish segments. Tuck the edges of each round of dough under itself to form a tight ball. Place the rounds on a greased baking sheet, cover with plastic, and refrigerate for another hour (or up to 12 hours) to allow the gluten to relax.
2. Meanwhile, make the cheese topping: Combine the fromage blanc, crème fraîche, salt, pepper, lemon zest, and nutmeg in a bowl; set aside (this can be prepared and refrigerated up to a day in advance).
3. Forty-five minutes before cooking, prepare a grill for one-zone cooking and build a hot fire in a charcoal grill (or heat a gas grill to high, until the temperature reaches about 600°F/315°C). Carefully wipe the preheated grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
4. When your dough is ready, generously flour your work surface and place 1 round of dough in the center of the floured surface. Dust the dough lightly with flour. Using your fingertips, gently tap the center of the dough to flatten it slightly.
5. Pick up the dough, ball both fists, and with your fists facing your body, place the top edge of the dough on your fists so the round stretches downward against the backs of your hands, away from them. Move the circle of dough around your fists like the hands of a clock so the dough continues to stretch downward into a circle.
6. When the dough has stretched to about 10 inches (25cm) in diameter (absolutely no need for a perfect circle here), drape it over the preheated grill grates (quickly reshape the pizza if it has lost its shape) and grill 1 to 2 minutes uncovered (cover if using a gas grill), or until the bottom side is crisp and marked. Remove crust from grill and place it, ungrilled side down, onto a lightly oiled baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough rounds (closing the grill and allowing it to reheat to 450°F to 500°F/230°C to 260°C between pies).
7. Then when you’re ready to assemble, spread a thin layer (about ½ cup/120ml) of the cheese mixture over the grilled side of dough, leaving a ½-inch (1.3cm) border around edge. Top with a light scattering of the onions, bacon, and red pepper flakes and return to grill. Cook 3 to 5 minutes, covered, or until crisp and the onions have lightly charred. Repeat with the remaining crusts.
8. When the pizza is done, slide tongs and/or a big spatula under the crust and transfer it from the grill to a cutting board or round. Allow the pizza to cool for a couple minutes, then use a chef’s knife or pizza cutter to cut into wedges (4, 6, or 8) as desired.
