cinnamon rolls, aka parry rolls

PREP: 30 MINUTES | bake: 28 TO 32 MINUTES total: 2½ TO 3 HOURS, INCLUDING 1½ TO 2 HOURS RISING | makes 30 CINNAMON ROLLS

These are my dad’s world-famous cinnamon rolls! He got the recipe from his mom, who passed before I was born, but these warm, gooey rolls give me the feeling that I would have really loved her. My dad has been making the rolls for as long as I can remember, and they’re not only a family favorite, but they’ve also since been named after him, Parry. There’s not a holiday where there isn’t a batch of these on the table, and my dad is always happy to make them on-demand—which happens pretty much any time we all get together. So even though I’m always itching to put my personal spin on a recipe, this is one I will never, ever change.

One thing I will point out is that my dad loves raisins and insists on including them (he always tells people, “If you don’t like ’em, pick ’em out!”), but if you’re not a fan, feel free to leave them out.

CINNAMON ROLLS

4½ teaspoons (two ¼-ounce packages) active dry yeast

1 cup granulated sugar, plus a pinch

1 cup lukewarm water

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons shortening (I prefer Crisco) or unsalted butter

1 tablespoon kosher salt

2 cups hot water

9 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

2 large eggs, beaten

Nonstick cooking spray

½ cup (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups packed light brown sugar

1 cup raisins (optional)

2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

FROSTING

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 cups confectioners’ sugar

4 to 6 tablespoons whole milk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 Make the cinnamon rolls: In a small bowl, combine the yeast and a pinch of the granulated sugar with the lukewarm water and set aside for 5 minutes.

2 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the 1 cup granulated sugar, the shortening, and salt plus the hot water and beat for 30 seconds. Let the mixture cool to lukewarm temperature. Add 2 cups of the flour and mix until smooth. Add the yeast mixture and mix until well combined. Add the beaten eggs and mix once again.

3 Fit the mixer with the dough hook. Continue mixing, gradually adding the remaining 7 cups flour. Mix for about 2 minutes. Turn out the dough on a lightly floured surface. Knead by hand, adding a light dusting of flour if the dough is still sticky, until the dough is satiny and smooth, about 1 minute. Return the dough to the mixing bowl and cover with a clean kitchen towel. Let the dough rise for 30 minutes, until doubled in size.

4 Grease two 9 × 13-inch baking pans with nonstick cooking spray and set aside. Divide the dough in half. With a rolling pin, roll one portion into a rectangle, about 22 × 13 inches. Spread evenly with 4 tablespoons of the butter. Sprinkle with ¾ cup of the brown sugar, ½ cup of the raisins (if using), and 1 tablespoon of the cinnamon.

5 Starting from one of the long sides of the rectangle, roll the dough into a log. Using a piece of unflavored dental floss (my dad’s signature) or a thin piece of thread, cut the log into 1½-inch-thick rolls. Do this by first sliding the floss underneath the dough so you have at least a few inches on either side of the rolls. Pull up the ends of the floss and loop them together as though you were going to tie a knot. Tightly pull the floss until it slices through the dough. Arrange the rolls in one baking pan, swirl side up and about ½ inch apart. Repeat with the remaining portion of dough and the butter, brown sugar, raisins, and cinnamon.

6 Allow the rolls to sit at room temperature until they’ve doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.

7 Preheat the oven to 350°F.

8 Bake the rolls for 28 to 32 minutes, until golden brown and baked through. Let the rolls cool to room temperature.

9 Make the frosting: In a medium bowl, whisk together the butter, confectioners’ sugar, milk, and vanilla. Generously spread over the cooled cinnamon rolls and serve.

NOTE: You can refrigerate the unrisen, unbaked rolls overnight and bake them in the morning. After you cut the dough into rolls and place in the pans, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. In the morning, let the rolls come to room temperature so they can rise a little, then bake and enjoy!