Spaghetti with Olives and Lemon

With this piquant and delicious pasta in the Southern Italian tradition, the topping will be ready before the water boils and the pasta cooks.

The quality of the ingredients really matters here. Use an assortment of good deli olives, extra-virgin olive oil, and a good, preferably Italian-made pasta; we recommend Bionaturae brand whole wheat spaghetti.

Serves 4

Time: 25 minutes

1 pound whole wheat spaghetti

6 garlic cloves

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups assorted pitted olives*

¾ cup packed chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons minced preserved lemon (here) or finely grated lemon zest

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese (optional)

*Choose a selection of your favorite olives; a mix of black and green is attractive. Include a few rich, briny olives like Kalamatas, and also milder ones like Niçoise, and some meaty green gigantes. Stuffed olives are fine, too; their stuffings add extra little bits of color and flavor.

Bring a large covered pot of salted water to a boil. When it boils, add the pasta and cook until just al dente.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan on medium-low heat, cook the garlic cloves in the olive oil until golden, 4 to 5 minutes, watching carefully so they don’t scorch. Set aside

Put the olives, parsley, preserved lemon or lemon zest, and red pepper flakes (if using), into a food processor. Add the cooked garlic cloves and olive oil. Pulse everything for just a few seconds, until the olives are finely chopped but not pasty.

When the pasta is just al dente (which may happen sooner than the time given on the package), reserve a cup of the cooking water, and then drain the pasta, but not too thoroughly. Place the pasta in a serving bowl and add the olive mixture. Toss, adding some of the cooking water if the pasta needs more moisture.

Serve hot, topped with grated cheese, if you wish.

SERVING AND MENU IDEAS

Spaghetti with Olives and Lemon pairs well with Apulian Fava Beans and Greens or with a salad of fresh mozzarella and tomatoes. Or begin the meal with Watercress Toast or accompany the pasta with Greens with Apricots Times Two or Baby Arugula Salad with Crusted Chèvre and Pears.