Za’atar is a spice mixture made of sumac, sesame seeds, and herbs used as a table condiment and in cooking. All over the Middle East and Mediterranean, people bake flatbreads and pitas brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with za’atar. It is used to season roasted vegetables, salads, stews, rice, pasta, and more. A classic simple dish is chickpeas simmered in olive oil, garlic, and za’atar.
Experiment with one or more of the optional additions to find the combination you like best.
Za’atar is commercially available in international foods aisles in well-stocked markets and specialty spice stores.
This is the traditional za’atar that is used as a condiment—put it on your table and you might find yourself sprinkling it on all sorts of dishes!
Yields ½ cup
¼ cup sumac powder (see sidebar here)
3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds*
2 teaspoons dried thyme
½ teaspoon salt (coarse salt is best)
2 teaspoons dried marjoram
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon ground cumin seeds
*In a dry cast-iron skillet on the stovetop, or on a lightly oiled baking sheet at 350°F in a conventional oven or toaster oven, toast the sesame seeds until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.
Mix everything together. Store in a small covered jar at room temperature.
The flavor of za’atar made with fresh herbs is more subtle, and nuanced with that brightness that only fresh herbs can lend. The aromatic qualities of fresh thyme and oregano are rounded out in a most delicious way by nutty toasted sesame seeds and lemony sumac.
Yields ¾ cup
¼ cup sumac powder (see sidebar here)
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano
½ teaspoon salt (coarse salt is best)
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram
Combine all the ingredients. Za’atar will keep in the refrigerator in a covered jar or in a plastic bag for a week or two.
We use this delightful seasoning in several recipes in this book: Za’atar Yogurt and Cucumber Salad, Roasted Cauliflower Salad, Za’atar Pita Chips, Easy Labneh Dip.
Sumac powder is ground from the deep red berries of a shrub (Rhus coriaria) that grows wild in high plateau areas throughout the Middle East and Mediterranean regions. Sicily is especially known for growing sumac in its wild, rocky lands. Sumac’s sour and fruity astringency brings out natural flavors similar to the way salt does. A small sprinkle adds a beautiful maroon-red color to any dish.
You can find sumac powder in the Mediterranean or Middle Eastern sections of supermarkets, or at Middle Eastern markets and specialty foods stores, or online.
The staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) growing in yards and along roadways in North America is a related, but different, plant. It is often seen in beautiful little groves that create a smooth canopy. The red conical fruit (drupes) of staghorn sumac that develop in late summer are sometimes used to make a beverage called “rhus juice,” “Indian lemonade,” and “sumac tea.” This drink is made by soaking the drupes in cool water, rubbing them to extract the essence, straining the liquid through a cotton cloth, and sweetening it.