No 1 Mary’s Fancy Sash Dress

Here’s a sweet, old-fashioned dress with a timeless quality. The wonderful sash adds a bit of frivolity, but the elastic at the back makes it comfy enough for everyday wear. Feel free to get creative with fabrics—mix and match to your heart’s content. You can use two or three different fabrics on this dress.

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FINISHED SIZE OF DRESS image XS, S, M, L, AND XL

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Materials

1 Printed mid-weight cotton fabric (45 in/114 cm wide):

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* If you don’t want to make your own bias tape, purchase 1 package of premade 1/2-in/12-mm single-fold bias tape.

2 Elastic (1/4 in/6 mm wide):

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3 Coordinating thread

FROM THE SEWING BASKET:

Note: The bodice of this dress has a loose fit, so it will slip on over the head. The skirt length measurements are generous. Adjust the skirt length as needed, depending on where you want the hem to fall.

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Cutting

Cut out (or trace with tracing paper and pencil) the Bodice Front and Bodice Back pattern pieces that are provided at the back of this book, in the size you want to make.

FROM THE DRESS FABRIC:

FOR THE SKIRT:

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After cutting the rectangles, fold each one in half, aligning the shorter edges. At the fold, using scissors clip a notch about 1/4 in/6 mm long. These notches will help align the center Front and Back of the Bodice to the skirt.

Cut 1 Bodice Front, on the fold.

Cut 1 Bodice Back, on the fold.

All sizes: After cutting out the Bodice pieces, using scissors, clip a notch at the fold on the lower edge only, about 1/4 in/6 mm long.

For sizes L and XL only: Using a fabric marker or chalk pencil and a ruler, transfer the dart markings from the Bodice Front pattern to the fabric.

FROM THE SASH FABRIC:

FOR THE SASH SIDES:

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FOR THE SASH CENTER:

SIZE

XS AND S

M, L, AND XL

Cut 1 Rectangle (L by W)

61/2 by 151/2 in/16.5 by 39 cm

81/2 by 181/2 in/21.5 by 47 cm

Cut enough 1-in/2.5-cm-wide bias strips to make 85 in/216 cm of single-fold bias tape (see page 20).

Assemble

STEP 1: SASH

  1. A Place 1 Sash Side piece on top of the Sash Center, with right sides together and one set of the short ends aligned, pin. Sew them together with a 1/4-in/6-mm seam allowance. Place the second Sash Side piece, with right sides together, along the opposite short end of Sash Center and sew them together with a 1/4-in/6-mm seam allowance. Press both seams open; then fold the entire Sash in half lengthwise, right sides together, aligning the raw edges, and press.
  2. B Create pointed ends: With ruler and fabric marker or chalk pencil, make a mark 4 in/10 cm from the short end along the long raw edge. Place the ruler at an angle on the end of the Sash, lining up the mark on the raw edge with the end of the folded edge and draw a straight line. Cut along this line. Repeat on other short end of Sash. (See illustration.)
  3. C With right sides together, sew Sash raw edges with a 1/4-in/6-mm seam allowance, pivoting around the corners and leaving a 5-in/12-cm opening along the long raw edge, so you can turn the Sash right-side out. Trim off the excess seam allowance at the corners, being careful to not cut your stitching. (See illustration.)
  4. D Turn Sash right-side out. Using a turning tool or the tip of a pair of scissors or knitting needle, carefully push out the corners and points. Press the piece flat. Press the raw edges under 1/4 in/6 mm at the 5-in/12-cm opening, lining them up along the folded edges. Topstitch around the entire perimeter of the Sash, 1/8 in/3 mm from the edge, to close the opening and give the edges a crisp, clean look.

SASH STEPS 1B and 1C 4 in/10 cm from end WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC Folded edge Folded edge Draw straight line from 4-in/10-cm mark to folded edge. Cut along this line. Trim corner WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC Trim corner Leave a 5-in/12-cm opening

BODICE STEP 2C Fold bias tape end over ½ in/12 mm Shoulder seam Bias tape folded edge RIGHT SIDE OF BODICE FABRIC Back neck raw edge WRONG SIDE OF BIAS TAPE Front neck and bias tape raw edge STEP 2F WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC Bias tape End with a ⅜-in/1-cm seam allowance Pivot point Start with ⅝-in/16-mm seam allowance

STEP 2: BODICE

  1. A For sizes L and XL only: With right sides together, fold darts in half, making sure to line up the markings. Sew along marked lines and tie off the thread ends at the dart point. Press dart seam allowance toward the center Front.
  2. B For all sizes: With right sides together, align the shoulder raw edges of the Bodice Front and Back pieces, then pin together. Sew each shoulder with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Press each seam open. Finish the raw edges in your preferred method (see page 23).
  3. C Neck edging: With right sides together, beginning and ending along Back neck, leaving approximately 1 in/2.5 cm extra on each end, place bias tape around the neck opening. Unfold one side of the single-fold bias tape, so that the raw edges of the bias tape and the neck opening are aligned, then pin the bias tape around the neck opening. Before sewing the bias tape to the neck opening, with wrong sides together, fold one end of the bias tape over 1/2 in/12 mm. (See illustration.) Pin the folded edge into place. Sew the bias tape around the entire neck opening, with a 1/4-in/6-mm seam allowance; when you reach the folded end, overlap the bias tape ends 3/4 in/2 cm, and trim off any extra bias tape. Clip the seam allowance around the curve, being careful to not cut the stitching.
  4. D Fold the bias tape to the wrong side, enclosing all raw edges. Press the bias tape flat along the inside edge of the neckline, so that it is not visible from the right side of the Bodice. With wrong side of Bodice and right side of bias tape facing up, edge stitch around the outer folded edge of the bias tape.
  5. E Armhole finishing: Follow step 2C, omitting the folded end and overlapping the ends; instead, clip ends of the bias tape to line up with the side seam edges. Fold bias tape to the wrong side and press flat as for step 2D, but do not stitch it in place.
  6. F Side seams: Unfold bias tape from wrong side of Bodice before stitching side seams. With right sides together, line up the Front and Back side seam raw edges and ends of bias tape; pin together. Beginning at the lower edge of the Bodice, sew side seams with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance, stopping at bias tape seam. At the seam, pivot and continue to sew at a slight angle, narrowing the seam allowance to 3/8 in/1 cm at the outer edge of the bias tape. The angle in the seam will allow the bias tape to fold to the wrong side easily. (See illustration on page 39.)
  7. G For both armholes, follow step 2D to fold bias tape to wrong side and stitch in place.
  8. H Sash loops: From the remainder of the bias tape, cut a piece 121/2 in/32 cm long for sizes XS and S, or a piece 151/2 in/39 cm long for sizes M, L, and XL. Fold the tape in half lengthwise, enclosing the raw edges, and press. Pin the folded edges together and edge stitch closed. Cut the piece in half, making 2 pieces. Fold these pieces in half to form 2 Loops; align the raw edges of the Loops with the lower edge of the Bodice at each side seam. Baste them in place, 1/2 in/12 mm from the lower edge.

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE SKIRT/ATTACH TO BODICE

  1. A Lay both Skirt panels flat, right sides together, aligning all raw edges; pin together along both short ends. Sew each side seam together, with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Press seams open and finish the raw edges in your preferred method.
  2. B With the Skirt inside out, use Gathering Method Two (see page 24) to gather the upper edge of the Skirt. Place the Bodice inside Skirt with right sides together, aligning the raw edges. Match up the Bodice and Skirt pieces at side seams and at center Front and Back notches. Distribute gathers evenly and pin pieces together.
  3. C Sew the Bodice and Skirt together with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Finish the raw edge in your preferred method and press the seam allowance toward the Bodice. Fold the Bodice inside the Skirt, so that just the seam allowance is sticking out. Place elastic along the back of the Skirt and Bodice seam allowance, baste elastic ends at each side seam, and pin the center of the elastic at center Back. While stretching the elastic, sew onto the Back Skirt seam allowance, directly above the Skirt/Bodice seam. (See illustration.)
  4. D Hem lower edge of Skirt: With the Dress inside out, fold the raw edge up 3/4 in/2 cm and press. Then fold up 3/4 in/2 cm and press again. Pin hem in place as needed. Edge stitch along the inner folded edge.
  5. E Turn Dress right-side out and remove any visible basting stitches at the waist seam. Give the Dress a good pressing and you’re finished! Celebrate with a tea party or picnic.

ASSEMBLE SKIRT/ATTACH TO BODICE STEP 3C Baste elastic at side seam Sew elastic to back seam allowance Baste elastic at side seam WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC