No 3 Josie Dress

This dress was originally designed for an eighth-grade graduation. Since then it’s become a hit with my Sis Boom customers. Mix up the fabrics to make a more whimsical dress or use just one fabric for a sophisticated look. For a very special occasion, just add a crinoline and attach a ruffle to the bottom. Fancy!

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FINISHED SIZE OF DRESS image XS, S, M, L, AND XL

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Materials

1 Printed mid-weight cotton fabric (45 in/114 cm wide) for dress and coordinating fabric for lining:

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2 12-in/30.5-cm polyester coil zipper

3 Coordinating thread

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FROM THE SEWING BASKET:

Note: The bodice of this dress has a snug fit, so there is a back zipper for ease in dressing. Both the long and short skirt length measurements are generous. Adjust the skirt length as needed, depending on where you want the hem of this dress to fall. There are no long skirt length measurements given for the XS size since a full-length dress might be a bit impractical for a toddler.

Cutting

Cut out (or trace with tracing paper and pencil) the Bodice Front, Waist Front, Bodice Lining, and Bodice Back pattern pieces that are provided at the back of this book, in the size you want to make.

FROM THE SKIRT FABRIC, FOR SHORT DRESS LENGTH:

FOR THE BACK SKIRT:

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FOR THE FRONT SKIRT:

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FROM THE SKIRT FABRIC, FOR LONG DRESS LENGTH:

Since our sizes cover many different heights within each range, the best way to get an accurate long dress length is to measure the wearer from the waist (about where her belly button is), down to the ankle or floor. If you plan to make a floor-length dress, remember to have the recipient put on the actual shoes she will be wearing with the dress before you measure her. Once you have your measurement, add 2 in/5 cm to that measurement for seam and hem allowances. For example, if the waist-to-floor measurement is 35 in/89 cm, add 2 in/5 cm for a total cut length of 37 in/94 cm. Jot down the needed cut length on a separate sheet.

FOR THE BACK SKIRT:

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FOR THE FRONT SKIRT:

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BACK SKIRT NOTCHING Back skirt pieces aligned with RIGHT sides together Length measurement Width measurement Clip 1½ in/4 cm from CB edge Clip 6 in/15 cm down from top edge Top edge WRONG SIDE OF BACK SKIRT FABRIC Side seam edge CB edge Bottom edge

After cutting out the Skirt pieces (short or long length), mark and notch them: Fold the Front Skirt piece in half lengthwise. At one end of the fold, clip a notch about 1/4 in/6 mm long; this is the center Front waist edge of the Skirt. Lay both Back Skirt pieces one on top of the other, right sides together, aligning all the raw edges. Along one of the length measurement sides, with a fabric marker or chalk pencil, make a mark 6 in/15 cm down from the upper edge. Clip a 1/4-in/6-mm notch at this mark for the zipper notch, through both layers. This will now be referred to as the center Back seam. On the upper edge, using a ruler, measure out from the center Back seam 11/2 in/4 cm and make a mark. Clip a 1/4-in/6-mm notch at this mark through both layers; this will now be referred as the Back waist edge. (See illustration.)

FROM BODICE FABRIC:

Fold fabric in half, lining up selvage edges.

Cut 1 Bodice Front piece, on the fold. After cutting out the Bodice Front piece, clip a notch 1/4 in/6 mm long, at the top and lower edge of the fold and at the indicated notches for the gathering.

Cut 1 Bodice Lining piece, on the fold. Clip a 1/4-in/6-mm long notch at the upper and lower edges of the fold.

Cut 4 Bodice Back pieces. You want 2 mirror image sets, 1 for the outside of the Dress and 1 for the Lining. Clip a 1/4-in-/6-mm-long notch at the Bodice Back upper edge, where indicated on 1/4-in-/6-mm-long pattern.

FOR THE STRAPS:

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FROM THE WAIST TIE FABRIC:

FOR THE WAIST TIES:

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Cut 1 Waist Front piece, on the fold. After cutting out the Waist Front piece, clip a notch 1/4 in/6 mm long, at the upper and lower edges of the fold, and at the notches indicating gathering placement.

Assemble

STEP 1: STRAPS AND WAIST TIES

  1. A Straps: Fold Strap piece in half lengthwise, with right sides together, pin, and press. Sew the long raw edges together, with 1/4-in/6-mm seam allowance. Turn right-side out and press flat, with the seam along one edge. This edge will be referred to as the seamed edge and opposite edge will be referred to as the folded edge of the Straps. Repeat for other Strap.
  2. B Waist Ties: Fold 1 Waist Tie in half lengthwise, with right sides together; align the raw edges and press. With a ruler and fabric marker or chalk pencil, make a mark 21/2 in/6 cm from one end, along the long raw edge. Place the ruler at an angle on the end of the Waist Tie, line up the mark with the end of the folded edge, and draw a straight line. Cut along this line. (See illustration on page 56.)
  3. C With right sides together, starting at the pointed end and continuing along the long raw edge sew Waist Tie raw edges with a 1/4-in/6-mm seam allowance, leaving the straight short end open. Trim off the excess seam allowance at the corner and point, being careful to not cut stitching.
  4. D Turn Waist Tie right-side out. Carefully push out the corner and point using a turning tool or the tip of a pair of scissors or knitting needle. Press Tie flat.
  5. E Repeat steps B through D on the other Waist Tie.

WAIST TIES STEP 1B 2½ in/6 cm from end Draw straight line from 2½-in/6-cm mark to folded edge. Cut along this line. Folded edge WRONG SIDE OF WAIST TIE FABRIC

STEP 2: BODICE

  1. A On Bodice Front piece, use Gathering Method One (see page 24) to add gathers between the notches at the neckline and waist seam. With right sides together, align the lower edge of the Bodice Front piece with the upper edge of the Waist Front piece. Pin together and distribute the gathers evenly between the notches. Sew together with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Clip the seam allowance at the curves, being careful not to cut the stitching. Press seam allowance toward Waist Front piece.
  2. B Waist Ties: Lay Bodice Front/Waist Front piece right-side up; line up 1 Waist Tie piece at side edge of Waist Front, making sure that the Waist Tie folded edge is aligned with the Bodice/Waist Front seam. Pin together and baste Waist Tie in place 3/8 in/1 cm from the edge. Repeat with other Waist Tie on the opposite side edge.
  3. C Side seams: Place 1 Bodice Back piece on top of Bodice Front, right sides together, and align along side edge; pin in place. Sew side seam together with 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Press seam open. Repeat for the opposite side seam.
  4. D Lining side seams: With right sides together, align the Bodice Front Lining with 1 Bodice Back Lining piece, along side edges. Pin and sew together with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Press seam open. Repeat for the opposite side seam.

BODICE STEP 2E Close-up of strap centered along top bodice edge. Place about ⅜ in/1 cm from each edge ⅜ in/1 cm Line up folded edge of strap with notch at back bodice edge Baste strap ends in place Seamed edge of strap RIGHT SIDE OF BODICE Folded edge of strap Center strap along top bodice raw edge

  1. E Attach Straps: With right side of Bodice facing up and folded edge of Strap facing toward center Front, center end of Strap along upper Bodice straight edge (there will be about 3/8 in/1 cm of Bodice visible on each side of Strap). Pin in place. Baste Strap to Bodice Front, 1/4 in/6 mm from upper edge. Place the other strap end with the folded edge of strap at the Bodice Back notch, aligning raw edges of Strap and upper edge of Back. Pin in place (the Strap should have a slight half twist to it). Baste Strap to Back, 1/4 in/6 mm from upper edge. Repeat on opposite side with other strap. (See illustration.)
  2. F With Lining piece lying flat, right side facing up, place Bodice piece on top, right sides together. Align along upper raw edges, distributing the Front neckline gathers evenly, and pin together. Sew along top edges with a 3/8-in/1-cm seam allowance, pivoting where necessary at the Front Strap and being careful to only sew the Straps into this seam where they are basted in place. You don’t want to catch the Strap in the armhole seam. Trim off seam allowance at corners beside Straps and make small clips in the seam allowance at armhole and neckline curves, being careful not to clip the stitching.

BODICE STEP 2G After stitching bodice and lining together along the top edge, unfold the two pieces so they are facing WRONG side up WRONG SIDE OF BODICE Seam joining bodice and lining top edge Under stitching at neckline Under stitching at back body Clips in seam allowance at curves Bodice and lining seam allowance is pressed toward lining

  1. G Unfold the Bodice and Lining, so they form a single layer with wrong side facing up. You will not be able to get this perfectly flat, but do the best you can. With the neck edge seam as flat as possible, press the seam allowance toward the lining. Under stitch (see page 28) the seam allowance to the lining at the Front neckline gathers and Bodice Back. (See illustration.)
  2. H Fold the Bodice and Lining pieces, wrong sides together, and press flat along neck, armhole, and back edge. Align the bottom raw edges and baste both layers together 1/2 in/12 mm from lower edge, to keep layers from shifting.

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE SKIRT/ATTACH TO BODICE

  1. A Lay Skirt Front flat, right side facing up. Lay the Skirt Back pieces on top of the Skirt Front, with right sides together, aligning along the side edges; be sure the Skirt Back notched edges (waist edges) are facing in the same direction as Skirt Front waist edge, and that the notches for the zipper are pointing toward each other (center Back). Pin both of the side edges and sew together with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Press seams open and finish the raw edges in your preferred method (see page 23).
  2. B Gather Skirt: Using Gathering Method Two (see page 24), gather the upper edge of the Skirt. Place lined Bodice piece on top of the Skirt with right sides together, aligning the raw edges. Match the pieces at side seams, center Front notches, and center Back edges. Distribute gathers evenly and pin.
  3. C Beginning at center Back, sew the lined Bodice and Skirt together using a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance. Finish the raw edge in your preferred method and press the seam allowance toward the Bodice.
  4. D Back seam: With right sides together, align the center Back edges of Dress and pin. Beginning at the lower edge of the Skirt, sew seam with a 5/8-in/16-mm seam allowance, stopping at notches for the zipper; backstitch. Lengthen the stitch length on the sewing machine to baste and baste the rest of the center Back seam of Skirt and Bodice closed. Press seam open and finish raw edges in your preferred method.
  5. E Hem: With the dress inside out, fold edge up 3/4 in/2 cm and press. Then fold 3/4 in/2 cm and press again, pinning as needed. Edge stitch along the inner folded edge.
  6. F Turn dress right-side out. Measure 51/2 in/14 cm down from waist seam at center Back and mark with a pin. With a fabric marker or chalk pencil and ruler, draw a straight line down each side of center Back seam (Bodice and Skirt), 1/4 in/6 mm from seam; end at the pin.
  7. G Turn Dress inside out. Put the zipper foot on your sewing machine. Lay the zipper right-side down along inside center Back seam allowance, so the zipper teeth are centered along the basted seam and the zipper head is about 1/8 in/3 mm down from the Back neck edge of Dress. Pin the zipper in place, pinning only through the zipper tape and seam allowance, not through the Dress. Fold back the outside layer; baste the zipper to each side of the center Back seam allowance. The basting stitches will not be visible from the right side of the Dress. (See illustration.)

ASSEMBLE SKIRT STEP 3G Place zipper face down on inside CB seam allowance centering zipper teeth over seam WRONG SIDE OF DRESS. Baste zipper in place through seam allowance only Direction of stitching Fold back outside layer of dress at CB, so right sides are together

  1. H Turn the Dress right-side out. Tuck the top ends of the zipper tape under, so they’re between the body of the Dress and seam allowance. Pin the zipper tape ends in place. Along each of the drawn lines at center Back, sew from the bottom of the zipper to the Back neck edge, stitching through all layers. Once both sides of the zipper are stitched down, go back and stitch along the lower edge to connect the vertical stitch lines. (See illustration.) Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the basting stitches that are keeping the center Back seam closed. On the smaller sizes, trim off the excess length of zipper on the inside, leaving about 1 in/2.5 cm below the lower edge of the horizontal stitching. Zigzag the end of cut zipper, so it doesn’t come apart. All finished! Now, how about a fancy garden party?

ASSEMBLE SKIRT STEP 3H Pin zipper tape ends in place Direction of stitching Tuck top ends of zipper tape in between the outside dress layer and the CB seam allowance RIGHT SIDE OF DRESS Sewing from bottom to top, stitch zipper into place through ALL layers

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