Bukhansan, the highest mountain in the national park named after it, is like the “dragon’s tail” of the mountain chain that crosses the Korean Peninsula. The park itself is a fantastic resource for the people of the city who come here to walk and climb and sometimes to take stock and draw strength from this tranquil and spiritual environment. During the weekends, the trails can get quite congested, and overnight shelters need to be booked in advance. However, on weekdays, it really is worth coming here to enjoy this wild place so close to Seoul. As with, it seems, nearly every mountain in Korea, the park is dotted with many ancient Buddhist temples and also has a large fortress, Bukhansanseong, which protected the capital and served as a refuge for the king in the event of invasion.
T Michelin Map: Seoul Map I and Bukhansan National Park
i Info: Bukhansan National Park Office San 1-1, Jeongneung-dong, Seongbuk-gu. t(02)-909-0497/0498. Bukhansan National Park Northern Office. Uijeongbu-si, Gyeonggi-do. t(031)-031-873/2792.
Ñ Location: Bukhansan National Park covers an area of 31sq mi/80sq km around the two mountains Dobongsan to the north and Bukhansan to the south. Administratively, it is partly in the city of Seoul and partly in Gyeonggi-do. Choose the entrance closest to the part of the park you wish to explore and based on how much time you have. Most of the main entrances are near subway stations.
w Don‘t Miss:
The spectacular Bukhansan National Park and its fortress, Hwagyesa in its serene setting.
Bukhansan National Park Office, see Orient Panel, to the right. http://english.knps.or.kr. >Open daily Apr–Oct 9am–3pm, Nov–Mar 10am–3pm. Site closes at 5pm.
Bukhansan National Park
©Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
O Most of the park’s hiking trails lead to the peaks, the highest being Baeg-undae (2,743ft/836m) on Bukhansan. There are too many trails to describe in detail, but generally they are well marked and take 1–5hr to complete. The terrain is very steep in places, and many of the trails are quite challenging. You can spend the night in one of the park’s shelters (₩5,000, plus blanket ₩1,000/2,000); although it is advisable to take your own sleeping bag.
Accommodations are limited, so be sure to book in advance through the park office.
It is also advisable to take some food on your hike; however, there are normally restaurants located at the various park entrances. It is forbidden to move off the trails and to camp or smoke outside the designated areas. There are some 50 official access points, usually located near a subway or a bus stop. You can buy a map of the park when you purchase your ticket.
With its many gorges, granite peaks, crystal-clear streams and spectacular scenery that changes with the seasons, the park is particularly beautiful. It was established in 1983 and attracts a great many visitors—nearly five million each year—due to its proximity to the city. Before Seoul grew to its current size, Bukhansan, in its location north of the city, was viewed as a natural strategic defense, and Bukhansanseong, the mountain fortress that was built here, can still be seen today. However, the park is now completely surrounded by the expanding metropolis.
Under the Joseon dynasty, fortified walls were built to repel invaders, parts of which are still visible at different points along some of the trails; even today, some areas of the park are barred to the public by the military. The area’s tranquility lends itself to meditation and a number of temples and monasteries can be found along the way.
Designated a national park in 1983, Bukhansan National Park is a popular nature escape for those who live in the busy metropolis of Seoul. Being surrounded on all sides by the growing city, the park is easily accessed by road or subway.
Visitors with keen eyes might catch sight of the Great Spotted Woodpecker, a flagship species of the park. The birds are mainly black and white, with red running from the lower part of the stomach to the tail feathers. Along with the more than 1,300 species of flora and fauna, there are also many cultural and historical sights to explore in the park, including the Bukhansan Fortress and over 100 Buddhist temples and the plentiful monks’ cells that dot the slopes.
The millions of visitors to the park each year have taken a bit of a toll on the ecosystem, so travellers are encouraged to follow any posted voluntary regulations, such as avoiding restricted areas at all times.
To climb Baeg-undae, the highest point in the park, there are a number of trails, including one that begins at the Bukhansanseong Hiking Support Center (é Gupabal, line 3, exit 1, then taxi or bus no. 704/34 to the Bukhansanseong stop).
To reach Jaunbong (2,428ft/740m), Dobongsan’s highest peak, head for the Dobong entrance (é Dobongsan Station, lines 1/7, then take a taxi or walk for 15–20min along the street lined with outdoor-activity clothing and equipment stalls).
For a pleasant and normally less crowded trail, start from the southwest at the Iljimun entrance or Jingwan Temple (é Gupabal, line 3, exit 3, then take a taxi or bus no. 7724 to the temple).
After the temple, the walk follows an idyllic valley toward the top of Bibongsan (1,837ft/560m) and then descends on the other side of the mountain, to the Bibong or Seungga exits, past Seunggasa (Seungga Temple) where there is a famous Buddhist statue.
Finally, to the southeast, the Hwagye and Naenggol entrances are also starting points for excellent walks (Tsee access to Hwagyesa below).
Bukhansanseong 
(Bukhansan Fortress)
Bukhan-dong, Deokyang-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do. é Gupabal, line 3, exit 1, then taxi or bus no. 704 to the Bukhansanseong stop. t(02)-357-9698. >Open year-round. No charge.
A fortress was first built on the site in AD 132 during the Three Kingdoms era, but the structure you see today dates from much later. Following the Japanese invasions 1592–98 and the Manchu invasion in 1636, work began on a new fortress that would protect the north of the capital and provide a safe retreat for the king and his family. Construction was completed in 1711 during the reign of King Sukjong.
Fifteen gates and a wall of 6.5mi/10km guarded access to the site, which made the most of the mountainous terrain. The complex included a 120-room palace for the monarch, along with temples (some staffed by warrior monks), military buildings, wells and storehouses. The royal apartments may have been smaller than in the royal palaces of Seoul, but they were adequate in terms of a secondary residence.
Much of the fortress was reconstructed after damage suffered during the Korean War but, thanks to the exceptional setting, it is still worth a visit. This is also the starting point for many walks.
(163 Ui-dong, Ganbuk-gu. é Suyu, line 4, exit 3, then taxi or bus no. 130/170/1217. t(02)-993-3261. >Open daily 6am–7pm.
Founded in 862 b y the famous monk Doseon, this is the largest and best-known temple in the park and gets very crowded at weekends. Behind the main hall is a superb representation of the Avalokitesvara bodhisattva, said to have been carved into the rock by Doseon himself. Buddha’s birthday is the perfect time to visit the temple—not for the peace and tranquility as it will be very busy—but to enjoy the thousands of colorful lanterns and the festive atmosphere. Once you have seen the temple, continue your walk along the trail.
487 Suyu 1-dong, Gangbuk-gu. é Suyu, line 4, exit 3, then bus no. 2 (Maul bus). Get off at Hanshin University, and climb the narrow road leading up the mountain until you reach the temple. t(02)-900-4326/902-2663. http://seoulzen.org/information.html.
Although this temple was founded in 1523, the current buildings date from a reconstruction of 1866. The setting is so serene that it is no surprise to find that the temple is also home to the Hwa Gye Sa Int’l Zen Center, which offers a variety of activities for foreigners interested in learning about Zen Buddhism.
w On Sundays there is a free Dharma talk at 3pm, with instruction for first-time participants at 12:30pm and meditation periods from 1pm. The center also organizes retreats lasting from two days to several months.
Hwagyesa
©Courtesy Hwa Gye Sa International Zen Center
ADDRESSES
_ The Shilla Seoul 
– 202 Jangchung-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu. é Dongguk University, line 3, exit 5. t(02)-2233-3131. www.shilla.net/en/seoul. 465rm from ₩230,000. : f ₩35,500. This top-class hotel has a legendary reputation for high-quality service and has played host to many foreign dignitaries. It aims to provide “authentic charm with modern, world-class luxury.” There are several renowned restaurants located here, including the famous Parkview buffet. Rooms have views over the city or the national park. Take a dip in the pool, or revitalize yourself by visiting the Guerlain spa.
_ W Seoul – Walkerhill 
– 175 Achaseong-gil, Gwangjin-gu. TSee Seoul Map I. é Gwangnaru, line 5, exit 2. t(02)-465-2222. www.wseoul.com. 252rm from ₩220,000. : f ₩30,000. Set away from the city center, this hotel is located amid the lush greenery of Achasan (Mt. Acha) overlooking the Hangang. Fashionable and chic, the rooms are spacious and the design innovative. If it’s beyond your budget in terms of accommodation, come for a drink, to have dinner or to play the casino at the Paradise Casino Walkerhill, a sister establishment on the adjacent site. Competitively priced for this level of service.
_ Hankang Hotel – 188-2 Gwangjang-dong, Gwangjin-gu. é Gangnam, line 2, Gangbyeon Station exit. t(02)-453-5131. http://hankanghotel.co.kr. 116rm from ₩98,000. : f. Located along the upper banks of the Hangang River, Hankang Hotel offers great views of the natural surroundings. The view outside is the focus for this hotel, so the rooms are understated, but comfortable. Additional on-site facilities include Korean and Western restaurants, a nightclub and a full range of spa services.
q Gangneung Jip – Guui 3-dong 212-3 CS Plaza Building 1F, Gwangjin-gu. é Gangnam, line 2, Gangbyeon Station exit. t(02)-447-3500. www.kanglungzip.co.kr. Open daily 11am–11pm. From ₩7,000 (lunch), ₩37,000. From seaweed soup to Korean raw rockfish salad, this restaurant is well-known for its tasty Korean food. A full course meal is typically followed by noodles, a hot and spicy soup, and a cup of herbal tea made with 14 traditional Oriental ingredients.