Busan may lack the buzz of Rio de Janeiro or Sydney, but it enjoys a similarly superb location among bays and headlands, mountains and valleys. South Korea’s second-largest city profits from its coastal location with its busy port and beaches. A far cry from the “living museums” that typify many of South Koreas urban spaces, it is Busan’s ambience and panaoramic views that charm the visitor. Once your ear is sufficiently attuned, you may detect the local accent and snatches of Japanese, Tagalog and Russian, as people barter and make deals in the business districts and markets. Busan is a city with ambition—the largest port in the country, it is keen to dismiss its inferiority complex in relation to Seoul with a series of architectural and cultural projects. The inhabitants are proud of the fact that there are many different kinds of things to do here, from jogging on the beach and a rural stroll in the heart of the city, to shopping, watching a Lotte Giants baseball game, or having dinner while watching ships make their way out to sea from the port.
= Population: 3,574,340
T Michelin Map: Regional map
i Info: Tourist Offices Busan Station, t(051)-051-441, open 9am–8pm; Haeundae, t(051)-051-749, open 9am–6pm; International Ferry Terminal, t(051)-051-465, open 9am–6pm; Gimhae Airport, t(051)-051-973, open 7am–9pm. http://etour.busan.go.kr/index.jsp.
Ñ Location: Busan is located in the southeast of the peninsula, 240mi/385km from Seoul. The city covers a large area, from the markets of Nampo-dong, the “historic” quarter in the south, to the shopping and business district Seomyeon in the north.
/ Kids: The beaches, Haeundae aquarium and the cable car ride at Dongnae, Jagalchi Fish Market for a lesson in identifying creatures of the deep.
> Timing: Allow at least two days to fully soak up Busan’s atmosphere. Note: hotel rates can shoot up at the weekend, especially near the beaches. There are festivals in June and October.
w Don’t Miss: Jagalchi Fish Market and Beomeosa, Dongnae pajeon (seafood waffles) and walks on the beach, panoramic views, beaches and bays, the cliffs at Taejongdae.
Only a few of Busan’s districts are featured here. If you have time, there are plenty of beaches and creeks to explore, accessible via subway and bus.
The list of possibilities is endless: Dadaepo Beach—with its famous sunsets and rock festival—Songjeong, Songdo, and Ilgwang Beach, as well as Eulsukdo, an island in the Nakdong River estuary that is a paradise for ornithologists.
In fact, the city is changing constantly and new attractions appear practically every day.
Immense skyscrapers punctuate the horizon, a light rail line is being constructed to the airport and hugely ambitious building projects are underway in the northern port, with marinas, a “green city” project, an attractive esplanade and all kinds of businesses opening up. Dynamic Busan is very much a case of “to be continued.”
NAMPO-DONG, JUNG-GU AND TAEJONGDAE
TSee Busan map II.
é Jagalchi, line 1, exit 10. t(051)-051-245/713-8000. > Open 8am–10pm.
The famous Jagalchi Fish Market (the name means “pebble”) lost some of its authenticity when a modern building with a roof in sections shaped like the wings of an albatross was built to shelter part of it, but it is still a fascinating place for the visitor. Women in gumboots are very much in charge in this colorful world, where fish are piled high in row upon row of containers kept fresh by hoses constantly trickling water. Just about everything the sea has to offer passes through this market (you might almost expect to come across the giant mutant creature from the Korean monster movie The Host), all freshly unloaded from the boats that bob up and down in the port.
Jagalchi Market
© Pietro Scozzari/age fotostock
The aisles of the modern Jagalchi Market are well organized, while the stands overflowing into the nearby streets form the picturesque Sindonga Market (more fish!), just to the west. If browsing is not enough, you can pick out your choice of fish and have it cooked on the spot. You can also try the freshest possible fish (the seafood is consumed live) in the upstairs eateries and diners above Sindonga Market and in the back streets.
The Dried Fish Market, a little farther to the east, is housed in diminutive buildings that have managed to survive the advance of the glass giants. The fish here are arranged by size, lined up in neat rows alongside mountains of mussels and clumps or strands (some of which can be up to 6ft/2m long) of seaweed. Stalls selling fishing nets, buoys and plants all add to the riot of colors and scents.
BIFF Square 
(formerly PIFF)and Gukje Market 
TSee Busan map II.
é Nampo-dong, line 1, exit 1, or é Jagalchi, line 1, exit 7.
PIFF is the former name of the famous film gala, now known as BIFF (Busan International Film Festival, www.biff.kr). It was founded in 1996 when Busan was still spelled Pusan. A pedestrian-only area, the square has been home to a number of movie theaters, playhouses and 24-hour restaurants since the 1960s, as well as some inviting ranks of pojangmacha, typical Korean street stalls (some with long queues, some practically deserted). Try a hot hotteok, a delicious little pancake stuffed with sugar syrup and crushed nuts.
Drawn by the nearby shopping streets, local young people and tourists flock to BIFF Square, especially at the end of the afternoon. Fashion boutiques and street cafés appear along Gwangbok-ro as you get closer to the gigantic Gukje Market (> open daily except 1st & 3rd Sun of the month), a checkerboard of alleys where you can buy just about anything you can imagine: pink hair bows, toilet brushes, dried persimmons, globes, bowls of every color, craft items, bedding, engagement rings.
There are no time restrictions here—you can shop at just about any time of the day or night in this typically Korean labyrinthine market.
BY PLANE − Gimhae Airport – t(051)-051-974/1666-2676. www.airport.co.kr/doc/gimhae_eng/index.jsp. 9mi/15km west of the city. The international and domestic terminals are 550yd/500m apart and both are easy to negotiate and well equipped. There are flights to Seoul and Jeju as well as Japan, China and Southeast Asia. A light rail line will soon link the airport with Busan subway, or you can take the limousine bus to Haeundae (every 20min, ₩6,000) and Busan Station (every 40min, ₩5,000), all via Seomyeon. By taxi, expect to pay around ₩25,000 to Seomyeon. There are also direct buses to Ulsan, Daegu and Gyeongju (12 departures daily, 1hr10min). Please check the opening time of the extension and that it is a light rail line
BY TRAIN − Busan Station – é Busan Station, line 1. In Jung-gu. www.korail.go.kr. The KTX trains from Seoul terminate here at Busan’s downtown station, as do trains from most other parts of the country. There are frequent high-speed train connections from Busan: to Seoul (3hr, from ₩49,200), Daegu (1hr, from ₩6,100) and Daejeon (1hr50min, from ₩29,000). Seoul is also served by saemaul (4hr30min, ₩39,300) and mugunghwa (5hr30min, ₩26,500) trains. A second station (Gupo) is in the western part of the city.
BY BUS − Dongbu Bus Terminal – In Dongbu, at the northern end of subway line 1. é Nopo-dong, line 1. It includes the Intercity (t(051)-051-508/1577-9969) and Express (t(051)-051-508/1577-9956) terminals. Frequent departures for Gyeongju (50min, ₩4,000), Tongdosa (25min, ₩2,000), Ulsan (1hr, ₩4,000) and Seoul (4hr30min, ₩31,000).
Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal – (é Sasang, line 2, t(051)-051-322). On the eastern side of the city. Buses leave from here for Jinju (1hr30min, ₩7,000), Tongyeong (2hr, ₩10,500) and Namhae (2hr30min, ₩11,000).
BY FERRY − The two terminals are both located centrally (é Jungang-dong, line 1, exit 12).
International Passenger Terminal – t(051)-051-465. www.busanferry.co.kr.
There are several departures for Japan: Fukuoka (daily, 3–6hr crossing, ₩90,000/115,000), Shimonoseki (daily, 9hr crossing) and Osaka (3 departures per week, 6hr crossing). There is a bus connection to Busan Station (₩800).
Coastal Passenger Terminal (domestic) – t(051)-051-400/660-0117. Ferries leave from here for Jeju (6 departures per week, 11hr crossing, from ₩32,000) and there are daily sailings to Gohyun, Okpo and Jangsengpo.
GETTING AROUND
Busan has a good bus network and an excellent subway with upgrades and extensions planned over the next few years (4 lines, easy to use with automatic gates; tickets: each journey is ₩1,100–1,300 according to destination, a 24hr ticket costs ₩3,500. Info: www.humetro.busan.kr/english/main/).
USEFUL INFORMATION
Main post office – Jungang-no. é Jungang-dong, line 1, exit 9. Open Mon–Fri 9am–8pm (Sat–Sun 1pm). There are also local post offices in the individual districts.
Money – Exchange service centers, banks and Global ATM branches can be found at the airport, station and in tourist areas.
Health – Pusan National University Hospital, 10 1-ga Ami-dong. t(051)-051-254. www1.pnuh.co.kr.
In addition to the pleasure boats departing from Haeundae, Busan City Tour runs several different circular tours a day—Haeundae, Taejongdae, Downtown and Eulsukdo Eco course—t(051)-051-464.
www.citytourbusan.com. Open Tue–Sun. ₩10,000 (20 percent discount with a KTX ticket). 12 departures daily from 9:20am–4:40pm. The tours depart from Busan Station (Arirang Hotel) or at various stops on the way; there is also an evening tour (summer 7:30pm, winter 7pm).
Yongdusan Park 
and Busan Tower 
TSee Busan map II. é Nampo-dong, line 1, exit 3, then first right.
This small urban park is a favorite with older folks for morning callisthenics and evening strolls. The slender Busan Tower (t(051)-051-245, www.busantower.org, > open 9am–9pm, ₩4,000), built in 1973 as a rival to the N Seoul Tower, looks almost old-fashioned, and the images of the Eiffel Tower and the Toronto Tower adorning its corridors are almost like family photos.
At just 226ft/69m in height, it can’t compete with its French and Canadian cousins, but a trip to the top is still highly recommended; the viewaa of the city is fantastic, and gives you a chance to see just what an exceptional place Busan is. Spend some time taking in the deep bays set among mountains trailing plumes of cloud, green expanses contrasting with azure skies, valleys bristling with meticulously planned high-rise buildings, green-painted roofs and terraces, an armada of fishing boats, departing ferries and tankers—not to mention the new construction sites, including the immense Lotte World Tower, that are transforming the area. You will also find a range of exhibitions and souvenir shops at the tower.
w Farther on from the park, Donggwang-ro, with its restaurants and antiques shops, is a peaceful and pleasant place for a stroll.
The nearby Modern History Museum (Tsee Busan map II, Daecheong-no, t(051)-051-253, >open Tue–Sun 9am–6pm, no charge) traces the city’s roots.
Cliff views along Taejongdae Park
©Sehee Kim/Michelin
TSee Busan map II. N of Nampo-dong along Jungangdae-ro. é Busan Station, line 1.
To the north of Jung-gu and its office blocks, this old brick station has been transformed into a vast, modern glass building at the end of the high-speed KTX rail line from Seoul. Inside you’ll find a tourist office, restaurants and stores. Outside, the vast concourse in front of the station is often the scene of demonstrations.
Across the street to the west are Chinatown and the Texas Street (also known as Russian Street) area—many Russian ships dock at the port. Although popular with tourists (who run the risk of being mistaken for Russians), the souvenir stores, shops selling vodka and pickles, and seedy bars with signs in Cyrillic are ultimately rather unappealing.
TSee Busan map I. Yeong Island (Yeongdo-gu). Bus no. 30 from Nampo-dong (Jagalchi Market side).
To escape the hustle and bustle of Busan for a time and enjoy a more relaxing atmosphere, don’t miss out on the short trip to Taejongdae Park at the far end of Yeongdo (Yeong Island). A small tourist train (> Apr–Oct 9am–8pm, Nov–Mar 9:30am–7pm, ₩1,500) makes a number of stops on its 2.4mi/4km round-trip, during which you will see fine views of the steep cliffs, the sea, the rocky beach and the tall pines and camellias that grow on the slopes of Mt. Taejongsan (820ft/250m).
On a clear day, from the Taejongdae Observatory at the southernmost tip, there are fantastic views out over the East Sea and to Oryukdo Island and Japan’s Daema Island. Or you can make the journey around the Yeongdo on foot.
SEOMYEON AND NAM-GU
TSee Busan map I.
Radiating out from around an immense traffic circle (roundabout), Seomyeon never sleeps. Whatever your interests and at whatever time of day, there is something to keep you occupied here. In addition to the large Lotte Department Store, there are hundreds of places where you can spend your money, on every avenue and in every alleyway, at street level or underground, not to mention in cafés, restaurants and pojangmacha (temporary street stalls). It’s a real mix of old and new, blending seamlessly, as pretty wannabe models sip bowls of thick soup that cost 20 times less than the hair accessory they have just bought. Stroll past fashion store windows, gingseng stalls at Bujeon Market and Starbucks coffeeshops; watch the locals knead dough and boil up pork in kitchens opening onto the road. Billboards, neon signs and radios blaring out advertisements all compete for attention and, when evening comes, the clubs and bars take over.
TSee Busan map I. Nam-gu district, not far from Jangsan. é Daeyeon,
line 2, exit 5. t(051)-051-625. www.unmck.or.kr. > Open daily 9am–5pm (summer 6pm). No charge.
The flags of the 22 countries that took part in the Korean War under UN command flutter above the graves of 2,300 soldiers who fell in combat between 1951 and 1954. The remains of 11,000 others were repatriated to the four corners of the world (including Europe, the US, Australia, Turkey, South America, Ethiopia and North Africa).
There are plenty of trails and paths on Jangsan (Mt. Jang, 740ft/225m) and in Igidae Park, from where there are also good views of the city and the sea.
Busan Museum (t(051)-051-610, http://museum/busan.go.kr/english/01busan/index.jsp, >open 9am–6pm, ₩1,000) is here, too, recounting the history of the city from Neolithic times to the present day.
TSee Busan map I. é Sports Complex, line 3, exit 9.
This stadium built between 1993 and 2001 has an amazing structure. From the air, it could be the shell of a giant mollusk clinging to a rock, or a spaceship. Its translucent Teflon roof allows sunlight through onto the 53,769 seats arranged in waves of different colors. The 2002 Asian Games, the Peace Cup and soccer matches in the 2002 FIFA World Cup all took place here. On that occasion, Korea made it to the semifinals by beating Poland 2–0. The stadium is now the home ground of Busan I’Park Football Club, the local team.
THE BEACHES OF HAEUNDAE AND GWANGALLI
TSee Busan map I.
E of the city. é Haeundae, line 2.
Of all Busan’s beaches, cosmopolitan Haeundae is the star. The best-known 1mi/1.8km strip of golden sand in the country, Haeundae offers scores of luxury hotels, restaurants and crowds of visitors who descend at weekends. The resort has attracted more widespread attention, too, because of its role in Yun Je-gyun’s disaster movie Haeundae (2009)—released in English as Tidal Wave—which dramatizes its destruction in a tsunami and was seen by 10 million Korean cinemagoers.
The area between the station and the beach is a mass of motels beside a well-stocked market.
The pleasant promenade is lined with pine trees behind which there is a row of hotels and apartment buildings. The mornings here have a Californian feel, with joggers working up a sweat before going to the office. The terraces attract both expats and locals, who are gradually learning to love coffee (often with as much sugar as possible). Recreational activites range from swimming and playing volleyball on the sand to dancing in one of the fashionable clubs before watching the sunrise.
For a family outing, visit Busan Aquarium (t(051)-051-740, www.busanaquarium.com, >open Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri–Sun and holidays 9am-9pm; Jul 17–Aug 22 9am–9pm, ₩18,000). The exotic fish, sharks, otters and penguins should help pass a rainy afternoon; there are more than 35,000 creatures in total!
Small yellow and blue cruise boats set off from the eastern end of the beach to take tourists to neighboring bays, and the view of Busan from the sea is magical at any time of the day or night (t(051)-051-742, www.coveacruise.com, about ₩15,000). The boats also serve Oryukdo (Oryuk Island, or Islands—depending on the tide, there may appear to be several islands) and Jalgachi (3 departures daily).
Mipo, the area near the pier from where the boat trips leave, is famed for its seafood restaurants.
They are already busy in the mornings, and eating in the Haeundae Seafood Hall feels rather like dining in an aquarium. The Dalmaji Hill district is home to a number of the city’s art galleries and is also known as the Art District. There are cafés here too.
The Sand Festival, celebrated in Haeundae at the beginning of June, is a three-day burst of activity—concerts, sport, dancing and sand sculpture.
wThe temple buildings of Yonggungsa are in a spectacular location (é Haeundae, line 2, exit 7, then bus no. 181), straggling across wave-battered rocks right at the edge of the sea.
From Waegwan to Busan, and the Olympics
With records of its existence dating back to the period of the Gaya kingdom (and annexed by Silla in the 6C), Busan is gradually renouncing its historical status as a small fishing port. The proximity to Japan promoted trade, which was regulated in the 15C with a treaty combating piracy, but this very proximity made Waegwan (as Busan was known at the time) the first town to be invaded by its neighbor.
After being attacked several times (most notably in 1592), the town was razed to the ground despite strong resistance organized by Admiral Yi Sun-sin. Further attacks ensued over the centuries, until the Japanese empire annexed the Korean Peninsula in 1910 (until 1945) and Pusan (as it was by now named) was confirmed in its strategic position close to the Japanese archipelago.
When the Korean War broke out, Pusan briefly became the only zone controlled by the Allies (the Pusan Perimeter area) during North Korea’s great offensive, and more than four million refugees flocked here. Since the 1960s, Pusan has been the country’s principal economic motor and its main international port. With the adoption of the new system of romanization (Korean words written using the Roman alphabet, Tsee Romanization p 37) in 2000, the city’s name is now spelled Busan, although it is still pronounced “Pooh-san.” Today this hive of commercial and cultural activity has a population of nearly four million and has become the fifth-largest port in the world. With its sights set on even greater recognition, Busan was bidding for the 2020 Olympic Games until Pyeonchang won the honor of hosting the 2018 Winter Olympics.
Admiral Yi Sun-sin statue, Busan
©Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
Busan skyline, Korea’s largest port
©KTO
TSee Busan map I.
é Dongbaek, line 2.
O This rocky headland (it is no longer an island, but is attached to the mainland) dotted with pines and camellias forms the westernmost extremity of Haeundae Beach. An attractive wooded coastal path leads around it, starting (and finishing) at the Westin Chosun hotel. As you reach the tip of the headland, a beautiful panoramic view opens up of nearby Gwangan Bay (Tsee below) with its impressive bridge and high-rise buildings surrounding the marina. In addition to a small lighthouse, you will see a circular modern building called APEC House, a venue for prestigious international conferences (t (051)-051-743, open 10am–5pm, no charge), in another spectacular location, right by the sea.
TSee Busan map I. é Busan Museum of Modern Art, line 2, exit 5. t(051)-051-744. www.busanmoma.org/main/. > Open Tue–Sun 10am–8pm. Entrance fees for major exhibitions.
Located opposite the enormous Bexco trade fair complex, the museum hosts a wide variety of interesting temporary exhibitions, from Picasso to modern Vietnamese art.
wClose by is Centum City (T see Busan Map I, é Centum City), the largest shopping complex in the world and a city within a city: besides the Shinsegae Department Store, there are restaurants of every kind, as well as a skating rink, movie theaters and Spa Land (>open 6am–midnight, ₩12,000–14,000), a health facility which ranks among the largest in the world (22 spas, 13 jjimjilbangs).
TSee Busan map I. E of the city center. é Gwangan, line 1, or Geumnyeonsan, line 2.
The gentle curve of the long beach at Gwangalli is no poor relation of its neighbor at Haeundae; there are fewer luxury hotels but the shady promenade with its pines and palm trees, enlivened every so often with a sculpture, is extremely pleasant. An unbroken rank of café terraces lines the boulevard leading north to Millak Raw Fish Town, a compact district entirely given over to restaurants serving fresh (or, indeed, raw) fish. You will be spoiled for choice here (including the Four Seasons on the second floor). The bay is closed off by an immense bridge that is especially impressive at night when illuminated, although it somewhat spoils the view. The bridge takes center stage during the fireworks display for the Eobang Festival (named after an ancient fisherman’s tradition), which is held every year at the beginning of June. Experienced sailboarders can take a closer look at it by hiring a board at Blue Wave (t (051)-622-9999) to the south of the bay.
NORTH OF THE CITY
É Subway line 1 toward Dongbu serves all the sites in these areas to the north.
Dongnae-gu 
and
Geumjeongsanseong
TSee Busan map I.
Located in a long valley to the north of the city, the district of Dongnae is famed principally for its pajeon (a green onion and seafood pancake) and a spa that attracts a mixture of locals and Japanese tourists. The Japanese were also responsible for the development of Dongnae’s “Spa City” district around Oncheonjang subway station (oncheon means hot springs), where there are plenty of restaurants (notably Japanese izakaya) and all the features you might expect of a spa resort.
To take advantage of the waters of Dongnae, try the Heosimcheong spa complex (t(051)-051-550, > open 5:30am–10pm, ₩8,000), in Hotel Nongshim, where you will find a choice of saunas, outdoor and indoor baths, oak hot tubs, a hammam and more to soothe the body.
Small roads climb up toward Geumgang Park, where an old-fashioned-looking but rapid /cable car (one way ₩3,000, round-trip ₩5,000) will whisk you up to the top of the park and to Geumjeongsan Fortress (Geumjeongsanseong). The view of the cityaa during the five-minute ascent is fabulous: office blocks, 50-story apartment bulidings, the Asiad Stadium, the sea and the mountains, Gwangan Bridge. Once at the top, you can admire the view unimpeded by the windows of the cable car and then just ride it back down over the beautiful forest.
O Or, if you follow one of the paths through the woods, you may eventually come across the remains of the fortress walls. Built in the 18C and 19C, the walls were originally 11mi/18.8km long, but only about 2.5mi/4km remain today, and the local natural beauty outweighs any historical significance. The southern (Nammun) and northern (Bungmun) gates bring your walk to a close. From the former there is a 5.5mi/9km path leading to Beomeo Temple on the far side of the mountain.
TSee Busan map I. é Beomeosa, line 1, exit 7. Make a U-turn as you leave the subway and walk up the road immediately to the right to reach the small bus terminal. Bus no. 90 (₩1,000) follows a circular route that passes the temple entrance and various hiking trails. t(051)-051-508. www.beomeosa.co.kr. >Open 7am–7pm. ₩1,000.
Immerse yourself in a beautiful natural setting with a stream, swaying bamboo, the scent of pine trees and tumbling wisteria flowers. Although you are still in Busan, the busy activity of Seomyeon seems far away. Despite having been burned and pillaged in the past, the “Temple of the Nirvana Fish” is still one of the most beautiful in Korea. Founded in 678 by the monk Uisang, the complex now extends over three terraces. The first structure you see is Iljumun (1614), or “One Pillar Gate”—when viewed from the side it looks as though it is standing on just a solitary pillar, though in reality it is supported by four sturdy, squat pillars. The ceiling of Daewoongjeon (the main hall) is decorated with flowers, symbolizing the word of the Buddha falling from the heavens. A stone pagoda from the Silla period (9C) lies opposite, and to the right you will see the shrine of Gwaneumjeon. Behind, water from a sacred fountain flows from the spring where legend tells us Beomeo, the golden fish after which the temple is named, lived. Beomeo is said to have descended from Nirvana on a colored cloud to live in a golden pool in a rock on Geumjeongsan (“Golden Mountain”), where a spring still flows. Before leaving, look at the ancient stone lantern near the vast reading room—it is believed to date from the time of the temple’s founding. The bus back down to the city passes a number of restaurants serving excellent pajeon, among other dishes.
w Foreign visitors can immerse themselves in the environemnt with a stay at Beomeosa through the Temple Stay program. Info: www.beomeosa.co.kr.
TSee Busan map II. 21.5mi/35km N of Busan, not far from Sinpyeong. Access via Rte 1, exit for Tongdosa. By bus: from Busan Dongbu every 30min (25min, ₩2,000). t(055)-382-7182. >Open 4am–8pm. ₩2,000, car admission ₩3,000. Otherwise, there is a free car park in front of the entrance to the complex and then a 1mi/1.2km walk.
You reach the largest temple in the country, known as “Salvation of the World Through the Mastery of Truth,” along a pleasant path beside a river and through a pine forest where the trees seem to dance in the sunlight. Come here early in the morning, when the silence is disturbed only by birdsong, and the city’s motels, restaurants and bars seem far away. Cuckoos make their inimitable cry, woodpeckers hammer frenetically on tree trunks and the stream burbles along its course.
The first building you see is the temple museum (>open Wed–Mon 9am–5pm (summer 6pm), ₩2,000), renowned for its superb collection of Buddhist art, including a magnificent tanka—a giant portrait of the Buddha, dated to 1792. Walking farther into the temple complex reveals its compactness, with some of its dense group of buildings freshly painted and others looking a bit more worn. Like many Korean temples, Tongdosa has had its share of troubles, suffering damage during foreign invasion and from fire. However, it is said that its Beopdeung (temple candle) has never gone out.
The complex was founded in 646 as a shrine to hold relics of the Buddha: a habit, a bowl, a fragment of skull and sari, the substance said to develop inside the body of a person who leads a pure life, which had been brought back from China by the monk Jajang. The absence of any statue in the main hall (Daeungjeon, 1641) is unique among Korean temples, the monks considering the relics (kept in a pagoda outside the hall) sufficient for worship.
w In order to reach the temple entrance, you will have to pass through the small town of Sinpyeong, with its motels, pocket-sized market and narrow streets. The pleasant town center becomes quite lively at night, as you will discover if you decide to spend the night here.
The facilities are all concentrated around the new bus terminal (at the junction of Sonpyeong-ro and Tongdo-ro), where a small supermarket and several cafés are located.
The Nature Tourist Hotel near the site entrance has functional rooms (618- 2 Sunji-ri, t(055)-381-8180, 45rm, up to ₩70,000). If you are eating out, try the Tongdo Do restaurant (77 Tongdo-ro, t(055)-382-7070, >open 10am–10pm), an unpretentious place just before the toll booths with an open kitchen preparing classic Korean dishes at reasonable prices.
ADDRESSES
„ STAY
w Beware, prices rise at the weekend.
. Hotel Angel 
–223-2 Bujeong-dong. é Seomyeon, lines 1/2, follow Judies Taewha exit. t(051)-051-802. www.angelhotel.co.kr. 45rm. ₩44,000/60,000. If you like being in the thick of the action (bars, restaurants and stores), this is the place for you. Once past the rather incongruous facade and the fake “Olde English” lobby, you will find some nice small rooms.
q Tower Hotel 
– 20-3-ga, Donggwang-dong. é Nampo-dong, line 1. t(051)-051-243. 75rm. From ₩60,000. Good if you are on a tight budget. The rooms are modest, but the standard of comfort is acceptable, and the welcome is agreeable in this green building near Yongdusan Park.
q Toyoko Inn Busan Station 
– 2-1 Gwangjang. é Busan Station, line 1. t(051)-051-466. www.toyoko-inn.com. 250rm. ₩55,000/75,000. An extremely good value hotel owned by a Japanese chain and located right next to the station. The price includes breakfast, laundry, internet access and the efficient service. There is a sister hotel in Seomyeon: Toyoko Inn Seomyeon, 666-8 Jeonpo-dong. é Seomyeon, lines 1/2, exit 8, then straight on for 550yd/500m. t(051)-051-638. ₩63,000/73,000.
_ Lotte Hotel 
– 503-15 Bujeodong. é Seomyeon, lines 1/2, exit 7. t(052)-052-810. www.lottehotelbusan.com. 760rm. ₩320,000. Eleven restaurants, a fitness studio, spa, swimming pool, casino and, of course, rooms with fine views from the hotel’s tall towers.
. Motels – There are plenty of choices between the station and Haeundae Beach, with very reasonable prices during the week.
. Arpina Youth Hostel 
– 45 Haeundae Haebyeon-no. é Busan Museum of Modern Art, line 2, exit 3. t(051)-051-731. www.arpina.co.kr. 103rm. ₩29,000 for a dormitory bed, also rooms and studios. A very good youth hostel located near the marina.
q Sunset Hotel 
– 1391-66 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu. é Haeundae, line 2, exit 5. t(051)-051-730. www.sunsethotel.co.kr. 72rm. ₩77,000–99,000. Set back from the beach, reception on the 9th floor. The recently refurbished modern rooms are tastefully decorated, and the staff is obliging.
_ Novotel 
– 1405-16 Chung-dong. é Haeundae, line 2, exit 3. t(051)-051-743. www.novotelbusan.com. 325rm. ₩190,000. A good level of comfort and a superb view of the beach—if you are on the right side of the hotel.
_ Westin Chosun 
– 737 Woo 1-dong. é Dongbaek, line 2, exit 3. t(051)-051-749. www.westin.com/busan. 290rm. ₩200,000. Situated at the western end of Haeundae Beach with the hills of Dongbaek spread out to the rear. The lobby has wood and leather decor and modern frescos, and the rooms are tasteful. A haunt of presidents and visitors from overseas, this is the best there is in Busan.
_ Hotel Nongshim 
– 137-7 Onchun-dong, Dongnae-gu. é Oncheonjang, line 1, exit 1. t(051)-051-550. www.hotelnongshim.com. 242rm. ₩230,000 at weekends. A comfortable hotel in the heart of Dongnae-gu’s Spa City. Pleasant rooms and old-school service with direct access to the spa.
ƒEAT
Around BIFF Square you will find an endless supply of restaurants that are open 24hr, as well as a number of pojangmacha.
q Nampo Samgyetang 
– BIFF Square. t(051)-051-245. Open 9am–11pm. The muted interior makes a change from the neon lights in the street. Nampo Samgyetang has been serving its famous samgyetang (chicken soup with gingseng, ₩12,000) since 1962.
q Seoul Kakdugi 
– Nampo-dong. t(051)-051-245. Open 8am–10pm. Hundreds of diners of all ages pass through this large canteen on a daily basis, fortifying themselves with a portion of seolleongtang (milky beef and rice soup for ₩7,500).
^ Myeongseong Chobap 
– Donggwang-dong. t(051)-051-246. Open noon–9pm. ₩12,000/60,000. A simple wooden storefront on a quiet street, with a “sushi” signboard outside. An excellent sushi restaurant with table or counter service.
. Chung Mu 
– Sindong. t(051)-051-246. Open 10am–10pm. Rustic decor and a down-to-earth atmosphere. Their seafood is excellent.
_ Oase 
– Jalgachi Market (5th floor). t(051)-051-248. www.oasebusan.co.kr. Open noon–3pm, 6pm–11pm (Sat–Sun all day). A luxury version of a seafood buffet, with fashionable decor and a view of the port.
q Lotte Deparment Store 
– 503-15 Bujeon-dong. é Seomyeon, line 1, exit 2. t(051)-051-810. The assorted fast-food counters on the first basement floor (including sweet and savory, Korean, Japanese, Turkish), or the restaurants on the ninth floor, provide a number of easy dining options, including The Hôme (t(051)-051-810), serving omelets of every kind, and Sumisan (t(051)-051-810), specializing in octopus with every imaginable sauce.
q Shintobuli 
– Bujeon 2-dong. t(051)-051-817. Open 10am–11pm. ₩7,000–25,000. The decor is pleasant (flagstones, wood, tiles) and they serve steamed pork specialties (bossam).
Haeundae and Gwangan – There are plenty of seafood eateries to explore around the markets at Mipo (Haeundae) and Millak (Gwangan).
. Tebuhang 
– Mipo, Haeundae. Open 24 hr. From ₩6,000–8,000. People stand in line here from early morning for the excellent fish soup with all the trimmings.
^ Dongnae-gu – There are plenty of Japanese restaurants around the Spa City area, subway Oncheonjan.
^ Dongnae Halmae Pajeon 
– 367-2 Bokcheon-dong. é Dongnae, line 1, exit 2. t(051)-051-552. www.dongraehalmaepajun.co.kr. Open noon–10pm, closed every other Mon. Where pajeon becomes an art form. The seafood and green onion pancake (₩20,000) is served in a setting that is traditional with a modern flare.
^ Yeyije 
– Pale de CZ (2nd floor), 1124-2 Jung-dong. t(051)-051-746. Open noon–11pm. From ₩7,000/25,000. Beautiful panelled rooms with private areas in which to try a fine choice of Korean dishes washed down with local brews. The lunch menu is a good deal.
_ Dongnae Byeljang 
– Oncheon-dong. t(051)-051-552. Open noon–3pm, 6pm–10pm. Housed in a 1940s building set among trees, this Korean restaurant is famed for dishes whose visual appeal is rivalled only by their tastiness.
The café terraces of Haeundae and Gwangalli are not short of custom; for a more peaceful and “artsy” atmosphere, try the Dalmaji district .
With the presence of sailors from the port and a large student population, Busan nights tend to be lively. The bars and clubs are concentrated at Seomyeon (mega-clubs), Haeundae (upmarket and cosmopolitan) and around the universities (é Kyungsung-Pukyong; students).
€ ENTERTAINMENT
CINEMAS
The movie theaters on BIFF Square and in the malls show all the latest blockbusters.
MUSIC
Busan Cultural Center 
– (848-4 Daeyeon 4-dong Nam-gu. t(051)-051-625, é Daeyeon, exit 3). Busan Philharmonic Orchestra’s home base. Concert and events listings at http://culture.busan.go.kr/english/main.
Between Gukje Market and the various shopping areas, there is ample opportunity to shop for Busan’s star buys: clothes, leather goods and jewelry.
Busan International Film Festival – Held in October, around Haeundae and BIFF Square (www.biff.kr).
Busan International Rock Festival – Held in August, a free music festival on Dadaepo Beach. www.rockfestival.co.kr
Gwangalli Eobang Festival and Haeundae Sand Festival – held in June (http://festival-eobang.suyeong.go.kr/eng/index.asp and http://sandfestival.haeundae.go.kr).
Jagalchi Festival – A large seafood festival held in October at the fish market and in the surrounding area: prize-giving, competitions, tastings, etc. (www.ijagalchi.co.kr).
w For complete festival listings: http://etour.busan.go.kr/index.jsp.