CENTRAL CUBA WEST
Encompassing the provinces of Matanzas, Cienfuegos, and Santa Clara, Central Cuba West is the island’s traditional center of tourism. Visitors flock to the white sands of Varadero, and farther east, the Cayos de Villa Clara are fast developing into booming tourist spots. The region is also blessed with wilderness – the Zapata Peninsula shelters Cuban crocodiles and birdlife, while the pine-clad Sierra del Escambray offers mountain trails and waterfalls. History fans are drawn to museums at Playa Girón and Santa Clara. Cienfuegos is blessed with many imposing colonial structures and fin- de-siècle mansions, while Matanzas thrums to the rhythms of Afro-Cuban music and dance. At Christmas, the sleepy town of Remedios comes alive with fireworks fever.
1.Matanzas
Museo Farmaceútico: Plaza de la Libertad • 45 24 3179 • open 10am–5pm daily • adm • Castillo de San Severino: Zona Industrial • 45 28 3259 • open 9am–4pm Mon–Sat, 9am–noon Sun • adm 
This historic port town, which evolved as a trading center for sugar and slaves, was dubbed the “Athens of Cuba” when artistic life flourished here during the 19th century. Plaza de la Libertad and Plaza de la Vigía are home to the Catedral de San Carlos and Museo Farmaceútico. Visit San Severino castle’s slave-trade museum and, outside town, Cuevas de Bellamar’s caverns.
San Severino Castle, Matanzas
2.Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata
National Park Office: Playa Larga • 45 98 7249 • open 8am– 4:30pm daily • adm includes a guide This vast park is Cuba’s most complete wildlife preserve. Swampland smothers the region, while mangroves, reeds, and wet forests also provide varied habitats that support more than 200 bird species, such as the Cuban pygmy owl and the tiny zunzuncito. Manatees swim in coastal lagoons, where Cuban crocodiles also lurk, and flamingos flock to Laguna de las Salinas. Official guides lead nature-oriented tours, and most local inhabitants now make a living by renting rooms or acting as guides for tourists.
3.Cárdenas
The rather run-down port town of Cárdenas offers some intriguing attractions. A good starting point is tiny Parque Colón, where a statue of Christopher Columbus stands in front of the 1826 Catedral de la Concepción Inmaculada. The Museo Oscar María de Rojas has fascinating displays with some artifacts dating back to pre-Columbian days. Horse-drawn taxi-cabs traverse town.
Museo Oscar María de Rojas, Cardenas
4.Varadero
The beach here, at Cuba’s top resort, offers plenty of watersports, but shade is in short supply. Away from the beach, regional attractions include hiking and scuba diving. Golfers are also catered for at the 18-hole course at Mansión Xanadú. Most hotels in the area are large, all-inclusive resorts, but visitors can also choose from a handful of smaller options.
Luxury hotels line the beach at Varadero
5.Cienfuegos
Set on the shores of a bay, Cienfuegos was founded in 1819, when French settlers laid out a grid around the Plaza de Armas, now Plaza Martí. The Paseo del Prado slopes down to the Punta Gorda district, where Art Nouveau and mid-20th-century Modernist homes can be rented. A highlight of any visit is a meal at Palacio del Valle, a mansion decorated in Moorish fashion.
Palacio del Valle, Cienfuegos
6.Santa Clara
Teatro de la Caridad, Parque Vidal 3 • 45 20 5548 • open 9am–4pm Mon–Sat • adm Known as the “city of the heroic guerrilla,” Santa Clara is an industrial and university town from where, in 1958, Che Guevara led the final battle to topple Batista (for further details see Fulgencio Batista (1901–73)). Visitors flock to sites associated with the battle, such as the Tren Blindado (a derailed armored train) and the Complejo Escultórico Ernesto Che Guevara. Also of interest is the frescoed ceiling of the Teatro de la Caridad (Charity Theater).
7.Cayos de Villa Clara
These islands lie 45 miles (72 km) from the mainland, to which they are connected by a very narrow pedraplén (causeway). The calm peacock-blue sea is protected by a coral reef and is ideal for swimming and snorkeling – the deeper waters beyond the reef offer diving. Catamaran and sport-fishing excursions depart from a marina.
8.Remedios
Museo de la Música Alejandro García Caturla • 42 39 6851 • open 9am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun • adm • Museo de las Parrandas • open 9am–noon, 1–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • adm Founded in 1578, this is one of Cuba’s most charming colonial cities. The Museo de la Música Alejandro García Caturla displays musical instruments, while the Museo de las Parrandas exhibits objects linked to the city’s famous Christmas festival (for further details see Top 10 Local Festivals).
Iglesia Virgen del Buen Viaje, Remedios
Colonnaded buildings in Remedios
9.Sierra del Escambray
Spanning three provinces, this rugged mountain range rises inland from the Caribbean coast, reaching 3,790 ft (1,155 m) atop Pico San Juan. Coffee is farmed on the lower slopes, while the densely forested upper slopes are of great ecological value for their plants and profuse birdlife. Topes de Collantes offers accommodation and is a base for guided nature hikes.
10.Caibarién
A once-important port town that still lives partly off its humble fishing fleet, sprawling Caibarién has a dishevelled countenance and awaits a renaissance of its incredible wealth of architecture, with buildings from Neo-Classical to Art Nouveau centered on Parque de la Libertad. The town also has beaches, and mangroves teeming with birds.
MANJUARI
This primitive fish from the ante- diluvian dawn evolved at least 270 million years ago, about the time the first reptiles crawled out of the seas. Growing to 6 ft (2 m) long, it has an elongated snout like a crocodile’s. Its scaly skin is covered with natural oil. Endemic to Cuba, the dark green fish inhabits the Zapata swamps.
JAGUEY GRANDE TO CIENFUEGOS DRIVE
Morning
Start your day early with a visit to Central Australia. After a brief tour, including a possible steam-train ride, drive south along the ruler-straight road with the grassy swamps of Zapata on each side. Stop off at La Boca de Guamá to see the crocodiles and then at Centro Ecológico, where an ecological trail lets you experience the Zapata ecosystems first-hand. At Playa Larga, follow the main road south along the shoreline toward Playa Girón. Take time to browse the Bay of Pigs exhibits and displays at the fascinating Museo Girón then continue 5 miles (8 km) east to Caleta Buena. Enjoy lunch and an hour or two snorkeling in this sheltered cove. Note that in March and April, the road is smothered with crabs migrating inland to spawn. They are a hazard; ensure that your tires have plenty of tread to reduce the chance of getting a puncture from broken shells.
Afternoon
Retrace your path to Playa Girón and turn north; the route is potholed in places. At Bermejas, turn right. Observe daily rural Cuban life in the remote settlements you pass through. Turn right onto Carretera 3-1-2, the main highway that leads to the well-planned maritime city of Cienfuegos. Spend the rest of the day admiring its Neo-Classical structures, ending with a seafood meal at the exotic Palacio del Valle.
The Best of the Rest
1.Cuevas de Bellamar
Carretera de las Cuevas de Bellamar • 45 25 3538 • Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • Seven tours daily These extensive caves have fascinating dripstone features. A small museum located here details the geological processes.
2.Museo Girón
This museum, replete with gory photographs and bloody uniforms, recalls the Bay of Pigs invasion (for further details see Museo Girón). Displays include a Sea Fury plane.
3.Fiesta Finca Campesina
Autopista Nacional, km 142, Jagüey Grande • 45 91 2045 • Open 9am–5pm • Adm This re-creation of a typical Cuban farm has a zoo with crocodiles, a sugarcane press, and buffalo rides.
4.El Nicho
28 miles (45 km) northwest of Trinidad • 43 43 3351 • Adm Cuba’s most beautiful waterfall plummets down the north side of the Sierra Escambray into cool, turquoise pools.
5.Castillo de Jagua
Poblado Castillo de Jagua • 43 59 6402 • Open 9am– 5pm Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • Adm This tiny fortress guarding the entrance to Cienfuegos Bay still has a working drawbridge across the moat.
Cannons at Castillo de Jagua
6.Boca de Guamá
45 91 5662 • Adm Beside Laguna del Tesoro, this tourist facility has a crocodile farm and offers boat tours of the lagoon.
The lagoon at Boca de Guamá
7.Lago Hanabanilla
Hotel Hanabanilla • 42 20 8461 This reservoir is on the Sierra del Escambray’s northern slopes. The no-frills Hotel Hanabanilla stands over the western shore.
8.Playa Rancho Luna
Faro Luna Dive Center • 43 54 8040 • Delfinario • 43 54 8120 • 8:30am–4:30pm Thu–Tue • Adm (extra to swim with dolphins) This attractive beach has two tourist hotels, the Faro Luna Dive Center, and a dolphinarium, where dolphins and sea lions perform.
9.Museo de Agroindustria Azucarero Marcelo Salado
42 36 3286 • Open 9am– 4:30pm Mon–Fri, alternate Sat • Adm Learn about the history of Cuba’s sugar industry and hop aboard for a ride on one of this museum’s antique steam trains.
10.Jardín Botánico Soledad
Pepito Tey • 43 54 5115 • Open 8am–5pm • Adm A botanical garden houses one of the world’s largest palm collections, as well as other exotic plants.
Revolutionary Sites
1.Castillo El Morrillo
Canímar • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun This fortress houses the mausoleum of two martyred revolutionary leaders: Antonio Guiteras Holmes and Carlos Aponte Hernández.
2.Museo de la Batalla de Ideas
Av. 6 between 11 & 12, Cárdenas • 45 52 7599 • Open 9am– 5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • Adm A museum recounts the custody battle over Elián González, a Cuban boy rescued from sea off Miami.
3.Museo Casa Natal de José Antonio Echeverría
Genes between Calzada & Coronel Verdugo, Cárdenas • 45 52 4145 • Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • Adm This museum was once the home of José Antonio Echeverría.
4.Museo Girón
The Cuban version of the Bay of Pigs invasion is recounted at this museum (for further details see Museo Girón).
5.Tren Blindado
Av. Independencia btwn Línea & Puente de la Cruz, Santa Clara • 42 20 2758 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat • Adm This monument re-creates the derailing of an armored train by Che’s guerrillas using the original carriages.
Tren Blindado
6.Central Australia
This site preserves the building that was Castro’s headquarters during the Bay of Pigs (for further details see Central Australia).
7.Complejo Escultórico Ernesto Che Guevara
Plaza de la Revolución, Santa Clara • 42 20 5878 • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun A statue of Che looms over this site, which features the mausoleum where his body is interred (for further details see Monumento del Che).
8.Museo Naval
Calle 21 & Av. 62, Cienfuegos • 43 51 9143 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • Adm The headquarters of an anti-Batista revolt on September 5, 1957, this is now a naval museum.
9.Museo Provincial Abel Santamaría
Calle Esquerra • 42 20 3041 • Open 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat • Adm A museum dedicated to the revolutionary movement in Santa Clara is housed in this former military barracks.
10.Playa Larga
On April 17, 1961, CIA-sponsored Cuban exiles landed on this beach (for further details see 1961: Bay of Pigs Invasion).
Things to Do
1.Sailing
Small sailing boats can be rented at Rancho Luna and Varadero, from where boat trips to outlying cays depart and tropical cocktails are served as the sun sets.
Boats off the beach at Varadero
2.Scuba Diving
Diving enthusiasts will enjoy the region’s north and south shores. Playa Larga is famed for its coral reefs, and Varadero is popular for its sunken warships.
3.Learning to Dance
Matanzas is an excellent venue for learning to dance like a Cuban. Festivals that take place in October and November feature dance workshops.
4.Riding the Hershey Train
Connecting Matanzas to Casablanca, Havana, this commuter train passes through sugarcane fields once owned by the Hershey chocolate factory.
5.Angling for Bone-Fish
The region offers some of the best bone-fishing in the Caribbean. The shallow lagoons off southern Zapata (for further details see Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata) and Cayos de Villa Clara are the best spots. Hotels offer guided fishing trips.
6.Horse-Carriage Tour
Formal excursions by colonial-era, horse-drawn carriages are a great way to explore Varadero and Cienfuegos, while in all other cities you can hop aboard one of the rickety coches that ply the main streets as slow-moving taxis for locals.
7.Snorkeling at Caleta Buena
The whole region is very good for snorkeling, but this cove (for further details see Caleta Buena) near Playa Girón offers a display of corals, sponges, and tropical fish. Snorkeling gear is available for rent. Lunch and snacks are served during the course of the day.
8.Paragliding
Varadero is the place for this thrilling activity, where you strap on a harness attached to a giant kite pulled by a speedboat. In seconds you’re soaring, with a bird’s view of the beach resort far below.
9.Golf
Av. Las Américas, km 8.5 • 45 66 7788 • www.varaderogolfclub.com The Varadero Golf Club, at Mansion Xanadú, is Cuba’s only 18-hole golf course, although more are planned. Laid out along the shore, it offers a demanding breeze-swept challenge between the sands and a lagoon.
10.Birding
Parque National Ciénaga de Zapata and the Sierra del Escambray teem with exotic bird species. Look for parrots and hummingbirds, and flamingos in the lagoons (for further details see Animals and Birds).
Cuban emerald hummingbird
Restaurants
1.El Mesón del Quijote
Av. Las Américas, Varadero • 45 66 7796 • $$ Perched on top of a grassy hill, this restaurant re-creates the mood of a Spanish bodega with its rustic decor.
2.Varadero 60
Av. 60 & Calle 60, Varadero • 45 61 3986 • $ Housed in a converted mansion, this restaurant sporting 1950s decor serves wood-fired dishes such as shrimp with brandy.
3.Salsa Suárez
Calle 31 103, Varadero • 45 61 2009 • $$ This classy, private restaurant has a charming and sophisticated nautical-themed dining room. Try the seafood cannelloni.
4.Kike-Kcho
Autopista Sur y Final, Varadero • 45 66 4115 • $$ Standing on stilts over the Bahía de Cárdenas, this upscale seafood restaurant is one of Varadero’s most sophisticated, and is decorated with works by the Cuban artist Kcho.
5.Restaurante La Fondue
Av. 1ra & Calle 62, Varadero • 45 66 7747 • $$ Imported cheeses find their way into creative fondues, but squid in tomato sauce is also on the menu.
6.Restaurante Colibrí
Boca de Guamá • 45 91 5662 • Closed for dinner • $$ A pleasant restaurant on the road to Zapata and Playa Larga. Crocodile dishes are a specialty.
7.Paladar la Mallorca
Calle 334 7335, Matanzas • 45 28 3281 • $ The hilltop setting makes this private restaurant hard to find but its criolla cuisine is suitably rewarding.
8.Palacio del Valle
Calle 37 & Av. 0, Cienfuegos • 43 55 1003 • $$ The fare may be average, but the surroundings astound in this grandiose mansion in Mughal style, with spectacular views of the bay. The terrace is perfect for sipping a cocktail while enjoying the sunset. Musicians entertain in the evenings.
The lavish interior of Palacio del Valle
9.Paladar Hostal Florida Center
Calle Maestra Nicolasa 56, Santa Clara • 42 20 8161 • $ Dine on the flower-filled patio of this beautiful 19th-century colonial home. Host Angel cooks and serves delicious food, such as shrimp in tomato sauce, to the accompaniment of Cuban tunes.
10.Finca del Mar
Calle 35 between 18 & 20, Cienfuegos • 43 52 6598 • $$ This class act is the best private restaurant in town. Owner Omar is in charge of delicious nouvelle and traditional dishes. There is also a delightful outdoor dining terrace with sea views.