THE FAR EAST
Far-eastern Cuba is dominated by rugged mountains. The Sierra Maestra was the major base of Fidel Castro’s guerrilla army (for further details see War in the Sierra Maestra). Sierra Cristal and Sierra Purial are a wilderness of mountain rainforest and offer spectacular hiking and birding. The coastline is no less rugged, with lovely beaches lining the shore of Holguín. Historic cities dot this corner of the republic. Santiago de Cuba – birthplace of the Revolution – teems with sites of cultural note, while Baracoa is the country’s oldest city. Cuba’s African heritage is keenly felt in Santiago de Cuba and Guantánamo.
1.Museo Aborigen Chorro de Maíta
5 miles (8 km) east of Guardalavaca • 24 43 0201 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat • Adm 
This archaeological site is one of the largest native burial sites in the Caribbean. Of the 108 skeletons unearthed, many still lie in situ as they were found, and can be seen from a boardwalk. A museum displays artifacts. The neighboring Aldea Taína re-creates an Indian village with life-size statues, and the locals re-enact Taíno life.
Sculpture at Museo Aborigen Chorro de Maíta
2.Holguín
Home to colonial plazas, several churches, and museums, this industrious provincial capital is worth exploring (for further details see Holguín). Its most famous former resident was Calixto García, a general in the Wars of Independence. His house, now containing a museum, stands near Plaza Calixto García, where the Museo Provincial de Historia displays period pieces. Climb the steps to the top of Loma de la Cruz for splendid views. Mirador de Mayabe offers a grand mountain-top lunch.
The palm-studded Playa Guardalavaca, Holguín
3.Gibara
Once a wealthy port town, Gibara now draws much of its current income from a fishing fleet that harbors in picturesque Bahía de Bariay. The original city walls are now relics, but Parque Calixto García boasts a colonial church and museums of natural history and decorative arts. The town’s white-painted houses lend the city its nickname, “Villa Blanca” (White Town) (for further details see Gibara).
4.Santiago de Cuba
Casa Museo de Diego Velázquez: Calle Félix Pena 612 • 22 65 2652 • 9am–5pm Sat– Thu, 1:30–5pm Fri • adm Graced by intriguing buildings, this now sprawling industrial city was Cuba’s capital until 1553. Must-see sites in its colonial heart include the Cathedral, Casa-Museo de Diego Velázquez, Museo Emilio Bacardí, and the Moncada barracks – a focus for Castro in 1953 (for further details see 1953: Castro Attacks Moncada). After the Haitian revolution in 1791, French and Haitian migrants flooded the city and fostered unique forms of architecture, music, and dance. The city is famed for its annual cultural Festival del Pregón in August.
Museo Emilio Bacardí, Santiago de Cuba
5.Playa Guardalavaca
This beach zone, an hour’s drive north of Holguín, was developed as a holiday resort in the 1980s and is now Cuba’s third-largest resort destination. Development is focused on the beaches of Esmeralda (for further details see Playa Esmeralda, Guardalavaca), Yuraguanal, and Pesquero, and either side of flask-shaped Bahía de Naranjo. The bay has an aquarium, and trails provide insights into local ecology (for further details see Playa Guardalavaca).
6.Sitio Histórico Birán
24 28 6102 • Open 8am–4pm Tue–Sat (to noon Sun) • Adm (guided tours available) The Finca Manacas estate, outside Birán, where Fidel Castro was born and lived until his adolescence, belonged to his father Angel Castro (for further details see Moments in Fidel Castro’s Life). The wooden mansion has been restored and is furnished with original family pieces. The grounds include Fidel’s parents’ graves, a former schoolhouse, and buildings, which were relocated to create an idealized village.
Sitio Histórico Birán
7.Bayamo
Parroquial Mayor de San Salvador • 23 42 2514 • open 9am–11:30am daily • adm • Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel de Céspedes • 23 42 3864 • open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–2pm, 8–10pm Sat, 10am–1pm Sun • adm Founded in 1513 by Diego Velázquez, Bayamo is Cuba’s second-oldest city. In the early 19th century it was the cradle of revolt against Spanish rule. Much of the original city was destroyed in 1869, when citizens razed their town rather than surrender to the invading Spanish forces. Fortunately, many key sites survived this destruction, and today the restored historic core is a national monument. Most sights are concentrated around Parque Céspedes and Plaza del Himno, including the not-to-be-missed Parroquial Mayor de San Salvador church and the Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel de Céspedes.
Leisurely street life in Bayamo
8.Zoológico de Piedra
Boquerón de Yateras • Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm The name means “stone zoo,” a term appropriate for the more than 400 life-size creatures displayed here. The animals, including lions, an elephant, a gorilla, and crocodiles, are carved from stone by coffee farmer Angel Iñigo, a self-taught sculptor who used photographs to hew the creatures. Iñigo has also created entire vignettes such as monkeys picking fleas and Taíno Indians killing a wild boar. The restaurant serves criollo meals.
9.El Cobre
12 miles (19 km) northwest of Santiago • Sala de Milagros • 22 34 6118 • open 6:30am–6pm This village is named after the copper (cobre) mined here in early colonial days. Pilgrims come to the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre (for further details see El Cobre), built in 1926, to ask favors of the Virgen de la Caridad, and leave ex votos (offerings) in the Sala de Milagros (Salon of Miracles).
The imposing facade of El Cobre
10.Baracoa
Cuba’s most easterly city, Baracoa is spectacularly set within a broad bay. The Hotel El Castillo, a former fortress, provides the best views in town. The city has a church with a cross that locals believe was brought over by Columbus. Baracoa is a good base for hiking and bird-watching, especially at Parque Nacional Alejandro Humboldt.
COLUMBUS IN CUBA
Baracoans say that Christopher Columbus (right) landed at Puerto Santo and that the flat-topped mountain he described was El Yunque. Some experts, however, believe that the mountain was the Silla de Gibara and that Columbus landed in the Bahía de Bariay on October 28, 1492.
A DRIVE FROM SANTIAGO TO BARACOA
Morning
Leave early from Santiago de Cuba, taking the Autopista Nacional, which begins in the Vista Alegre district. Be careful on the freeway, which has plenty of potholes and traffic. After about 5 miles (8 km), exit at the signed junction for La Maya. The road passes through sugarcane fields, with the Sierra Baconao rising to the south. Continue east to Guantánamo, where sites of interest around Parque Martí can be explored in one hour. Crossing the Río Bano, divert north to Boquerón de Yateras to reach the Zoológico de Piedra, and stop for lunch at the restaurant there.
Afternoon
Return to Guantánamo and turn east toward Baracoa. The road passes the entrance to Mirador de Malones and meets the shore at Playa Yateritas. At Cajobabo, turn south to reach Playita, where a museum recalls José Martí’s return from exile. Visit the memorial at the spot where Martí landed with General Máximo Gómez. Beyond Cajobabo, the road snakes into the Sierra de Purial via La Farola. The mountain road is scenic but drive carefully, especially in fog and rain. At the summit, Alto de Coltillo, have a cup of hot coffee from the roadside shacks before winding back down the mountain’s north side toward a coastal plain. Before you arrive in Baracoa, make a stop at the small zoo, Parque Zoológico Cacique Guamá (open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun).
Parque Baconao and Around
1.Playa Siboney
This pebbly beach frequented by locals has casas particulares that offer rooms overlooking the Caribbean (for further details see Playa Siboney).
2.Valle de la Prehistoria
Carretera de Baconao, km 6.5 • 22 63 9239 • Open 8am–5pm • Adm Life-sized model dinosaurs cast in concrete and steel are found at this park (for further details see Valle de la Prehistoria, Santiago de Cuba).
3.Jardín Botánico
Viajes Cubanacán: Av. de las Américas & M, Santiago • 22 64 2202 • Open 7am–4pm • Adm Cubanacán offers tours to visit this elevated garden, with flowers that bloom all year round.
4.Museo de Automóviles
Conjunto de Museos de la Punta, Carretera de Baconao, km 8.5 • 22 63 9197 • Open 8am–5pm • Adm Among the cars on display is the curious one-cylinder Maya Cuba. An adjoining museum displays around 2,500 toy cars.
5.Prado de las Esculturas
Carretera a Siboney & Carretera de la Gran Piedra • Open 8am–4pm • Adm A walking trail leads past metal artworks in this sculpture garden.
Prado de las Esculturas
6.Cafetal La Isabelica
Carretera de la Gran Piedra, km 14 • Open 8am–4pm • Adm Learn about coffee production at this 18th-century coffee estate.
7.Museo de la Guerra Hispano-Cubano-Norteamericano
Carretera Siboney, km 13 • 22 39 9119 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat • Adm This museum has original weaponry and uniforms from the 1898 Spanish-American War (for further details see Museo de la Guerra Hispano-Cubano-Norteamericano).
8.Comunidad Artística Los Mamoncillos
Playa Verraco, Carretera de Baconao Shop for original works at this hamlet dedicated to arts and crafts.
9.Acuario Baconao
Carretera de Baconao, km 47 • 22 35 6176 • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm This aquatic park puts on dolphin shows twice daily.
10.Granita Siboney
Carretera Siboney, km 13 • 22 39 9168 • Open 9am– 5pm daily (to 1pm Mon) • Adm Fidel Castro and his revolutionaries set out from this farmstead on July 26, 1953, to attack Moncada barracks. A museum tells the tale.
Things to Do
1.Visit Cayo Saetía
24 51 6900 African game roam freely in the wilds of this small island with sensational white beaches. It was once a hunting preserve for the Communist elite.
Pristine beaches at Cayo Saetía island
2.Dive at Marea del Portillo
Albacora Dive Center: Marea del Portillo • 23 59 7139 This otherwise modest beach resort will thrill scuba aficionados with its splendid dive sites. The highlight is the wreck of the Spanish warship, Cristóbal Colón, sunk in 1898.
3.Drive to Chivirico
Soaring skyward from a teal-blue sea, the Sierra Maestra push up against a barren coast road linking Marea del Portillo with Santiago de Cuba. The stunning scenery is the perfect backdrop to the road.
4.Dance at the Casa de la Trova, Santiago
The epicenter of son music, Casa de la Trova has been a center of learning for top musicians. Paintings of famous artists adorn the walls.
5.Honor José Martí at Dos Ríos
The site of José Martí’s martyrdom is marked by an obelisk. The memorial, surrounded by white roses, is an allusion to Martí’s famous poem, Cultivo una rosa blanca.
6.Hiking in Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma
The site of the Granma landing, this park features trails through semi-arid forest with caves. Marine terraces offer great views (for further details see Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma).
7.Boat Ride at Yumurí
The Río Yumurí runs through coastal mountains and is a stunning setting for boat trips departing from the wharf at the river mouth. Negotiate a fee with the boat owners first.
8.Spot Manatees at Parque Nacional Alejandro Humboldt
Ecotur: Calle Maceo 120, Baracoa • 21 64 3665 Guided boat trips, arranged through Ecotur, offer passengers the chance for a rare encounter with the endearing and endangered manatees, as they paddle around in the mangrove-lined waters of Bahía de Taco bay.
9.Birding in Sierra Cristal
Sightings of colorful Cuban parrots and tocororos are the rewards for bird enthusiasts on hikes through the montane forests of northeastern Cuba.
10.Steam Train Ride
Hop onto an antique steam train at Rafael Freyre for a scenic tour of the Grupo Maniabón mountains. Tours can be arranged through hotel desks in Guardalavaca and Holguín.
Mountain Highs
1.El Yunque
A unique flat top on El Yunque forms a dramatic backdrop to Baracoa, and you can hike to the summit. The views from the top are fabulous and worth the trip (for further details see El Yunque).
El Yunque, Baracoa
2.La Farola
Experience a winding, breathtakingly steep drive up the mountain linking Guantánamo to Baracoa. Magnificent scenery awaits drivers, but extreme care is required on the way up.
3.Parque Nacional Alejandro Humboldt
Ecotur • 21 64 3665 Don sturdy footwear for the hike into the mountains of this park, which features miradores (lookouts) offering marvelous views. Guides are mandatory, and Ecotur can arrange them for you.
4.El Saltón
Villa El Saltón • 22 56 6326 This ecotourism mountain resort offers trails, waterfalls, and superb bird-watching. The Villa El Saltón is a good base for exploring.
5.Pinares de Mayarí
24 45 5628 Accessed by a denuded road, this mountain resort (for further details see Pinares de Mayarí) offers outdoor activities amid the pine forests, as well as around the Salto el Guayabo waterfall.
6.Parque Nacional Pico Turquino
Cuba’s highest peak (for further details see Parque Nacional Alejandro Humboldt) is a challenging two-day ascent leading through various ecosystems, including a cloud forest.
7.Grupo Maniabón
Surrounded by mogotes, this visually delightful mountain chain northeast of Holguín is best explored via a steam train excursion.
8.La Comandancia de la Plata
Fidel Castro’s former guerrilla headquarters, hidden by thick forest and overhanging a ravine, are kept as they were five decades ago (for further details see La Comandancia de la Plata).
9.Gran Piedra
The “Great Stone” is a huge boulder balanced atop the ridge of the Sierra Baconao, and reached via a 454-step staircase. It offers panoramic views, and Haiti can be seen on the horizon.
10.Mayarí Arriba
Museo Comandancia del Segundo Frente: Av. de los Mártires, Santiago de Cuba • 22 42 5749 • open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun The Museo Comandancia del Segundo Frente recalls the years of the Revolution when the pine forests surrounding this town were the setting for guerrilla warfare.
Restaurants
1.Paladar Salón Tropical
Calle Luis Fernándes Marcané 310 Altos, Santiago de Cuba • 22 64 1161 • $ The best paladar (private restaurant) in Santiago serves mixed grills and seafood on its terrace. The menu ranges from pizza to lamb stew.
2.Restaurante 1720
Calle Frexes 190, Holguín • 24 46 8150 • $$ Located in a restored colonial mansion, Restaurante 1720 offers a creative menu that includes paella, and tasty creole shrimp in rum.
3.Restaurante El Morro
Parque Histórico El Morro, Santiago de Cuba • 22 69 1576 • $$ This delightfully rustic restaurant sits atop a coastal headland. Eat your criolla lunch while enjoying the spectacular views from the terrace.
Restaurante El Morro
4.Restaurante Loma de la Cruz
Loma de la Cruz, Holguín • 24 47 1523 • $$ Incomparable views over the city are offered at the Spanish bodega-style place. Try the tasty lamb enchilada.
5.El Poeta
Calle Maceo 159, Baracoa • 21 64 3017 • $ This charming paladar is set in a wooden house. The ebullient owner will sing impromptu poetry as you dine on creative dishes that are unique to the region.
6.El Barracón
Av. Victoriano Garzón, Santiago de Cuba • 22 66 1877 • $ At this rustic restaurant diners sit at long tables to enjoy dishes such as carne pa’ changó, a spicy stew.
7.Restaurant La Maison
Playa Mayor, Guardalavaca • 24 48 0839 • $ Have an elaborate meal of lobster and paella at great prices at this clifftop restaurant offering fine scenery.
8.Paladar La Estrella
General García between Masó & Lora, Bayamo • 23 42 3950 • $ Sample reasonably priced, good criolla staples, such as garlic shrimp, at this private restaurant.
9.Restaurante Zunzún
Av. Manduley 159, Santiago de Cuba • 22 64 1528 • $$ This atmospheric eatery has a wide-ranging menu. Housed in a colonial mansion, you can enjoy your meal in the comfort of the air-conditioned salon or on the terrace outside.
10.Ranchón El Gobernador
Glorieta, 13 miles (21 km) E of Guantánamo • Open 24 hrs • $ This breeze-swept hilltop restaurant serves simple dishes, but its appeal also lies in its fabulous views over Guantánamo Bay.