Lavender
Before you get started on these recipes, remember to have fun, enjoy the process, and be creative! These recipes are meant to be played with. Add the extra pinch of herb, a new scent, a touch of this or that. Just like a good cook follows an exact recipe only once, then adds her own spark of creativity and inspiration, so these formulas are meant to be tampered with and awakened with your own creative dreams.
A few words of advice about experimenting with these recipes:
A perfect soap replacement, cleansing grains are mild, nourishing, and suitable for all skin types, and can be used daily. A well-blended cleansing grain formula lightly polishes the skin, removes dead cells, and nourishes and soothes, all without upsetting the normal protective coating of the skin. I’ve tried many cleansing grains on the market, and though some are quite nice, my own simple Miracle Grains recipe remains my favorite. I can mix and blend it to suit myself, it’s inexpensive enough that I can use it as a total body scrub, and it’s totally biodegradable and even quite tasty — I could eat it in a pinch!
Many of the commercial cleansing grains are far too harsh; they feel like sandpaper on the skin. Teenagers with acne or “troubled” skin often use these rough cleansers, thinking that somehow they can scrub that acne away. Not so! Blemished skin, especially, must be treated gently. Harsh cleansers will only further irritate the already inflamed condition. By contrast, the light Miracle Grains are perfect for blemished skin. They gently cleanse, distribute excess oil, remove dead cells, and improve circulation. I have had many people tell me over the years that my Miracle Grains have “saved” their skin!
Lavender
You can use these cleansing grains on your face, as described here, but also in the bath or shower to cleanse and scrub your entire body. If you’re using them in the shower, store them in a plastic, not glass, container.
I prefer the dry cleansing grains for storage purposes and usually give them this way for gifts, but for my personal use I always make them moist. They’re easier to use when made up already, plus they have the addition of a couple more yummy ingredients.
Honey serves as a natural preservative for the grains, as well as adding its wonderful moisturizing quality. Though the honey sounds like it would make the grains very sticky, it doesn’t. The addition of a hydrosol to premoisten the grains adds even more herbal properties.
I usually mix only enough moist grains for a week or two to prevent spoilage from occurring. If the grains do spoil, then it’s because the ratio of honey to water (hydrosol) was off. The water is intended to give the grains a smoother consistency. Don’t use too much.
There are many items you can add to the basic formulas for Miracle Grains, such as seaweed, vitamins A and E, and other combinations of herbs. You may wish to add a few drops of essential oil, such as lavender, grapefruit, or orange, to enhance the scent and the effect of the grains; add only a drop or two. For additional texture, you might add finely ground coconut flakes, poppy seeds, blue or yellow corn meal, or cocoa nibs, using up to 1/ 8 cup per recipe batch.
Don’t be afraid to be creative with these recipes. You may design a truly unique and wonderful formula personalized for your skin type.
When grinding ingredients for Miracle Grains, you may wish to grind the oats very finely. The almonds also should be ground well, but leave them with just a touch of “grit.” Powder the roses and lavender as much as possible, although they will always have a bit of coarseness left. This is desirable, as it serves as the cleansing “grain” in the grains.
I have found that electric coffee grinders work best for grinding small amounts of herbs, flowers, and spices. However, do not use the grinder you use for coffee; your herbs will smell like coffee, and your coffee will forever smell and taste like herbs. Blenders, if high powered, work well but won’t grind as finely as a coffee mill does.
A facial steam does for the face what a sauna or sweat lodge does for the body: It draws fresh blood to the surface of the skin, opens the pores, and draws impurities from the deeper levels to the surface of the skin, where they are released. The herbs add their healing properties and, because of the heat and steam, are absorbed deeply into the skin. A fresh flow of blood to the skin leaves you with a glowing, radiant complexion.
Following are two of my favorite formulas for herbal facial steams. It’s fun and easy to make your own recipes as well. When blending your own formulas, use herbs that have been traditionally used for the care of the skin. Flowers are always lovely to include for their color and texture as well as medicinal properties they add; it is so lovely to be steaming your skin over a “soup pot” simmering with roses, marigolds, and chamomile and lavender blossoms.
To do an herbal facial steam, bring a pot of water to a boil, add the herbs, simmer for a few minutes, and then remove the pot to a table. Sit at the table in front of the pot, drape a large, thick towel over both your head and the pot, and place your face over the steaming herb water. It will get very hot under the towel. To regulate the heat, raise or lower your head or lift a corner of the towel to let in a little cool air. You can come out occasionally to catch a breath of cool air if necessary. For the steam to be most effective, steam for 8 to 10 minutes. When done, pat your skin dry, and then, to close your pores, spritz with a light astringent, rose water or another hydrosol, or cool water.
Use either of the two herb formulas listed below, depending on your skin type.
Raspberry
Astringent toners and hydrosols are all firming, toning, and tightening for the skin. They are recommended for use after facial steams, masks, and cleansing to close and tighten the pores. In addition, they tone the skin and help prepare it for moisturizing. Toners and hydrosols are also used to remove excess oil from the skin. While they are especially appropriate for oily skin, all skin types can benefit from their pore-firming effects.
Herbal toners and hydrosols take advantage of plants that have high levels of tannins, which have an astringent-like action. In medicinal preparations, these plants are used for healing wounds and for drying up excess moisture in the body (such as mucus in the lungs, vaginal infections, and so on).
Lemon balm
This wonderful astringent wash has been hailed as the first herbal product ever to be produced and marketed. Legend has it that a young and very handsome gypsy man used it to heal the queen of Hungary from a mysterious disease, and he was rewarded well for his efforts. The story, like the water itself, has lingered, and centuries later you can still find Queen of Hungary’s water packaged in exotic little bottles and sold in high-class department stores for a fancy price (I’m sure our ancient gypsy friend would be quite pleased!). But better yet, you can make it easily and simply for the cost of a few herbs and an inexpensive bottle of vinegar.
To use as a hair conditioner, dilute 1⁄4 cup of Queen of Hungary’s water in 1 quart of warm water. Rinse out any shampoo, then pour the conditioning rinse over your hair. Follow with a final rinse of pure water. Note: when using it as a hair rinse, it is better to make Queen of Hungary’s water in pure apple cider vinegar and not to dilute it with rose water or witch hazel extract.
To use as a refreshing after-shower rinse and/or as a deodorizer, fill a spritzer bottle half to three-quarters full with Queen of Hungary’s water, and top up with pure water or hydrosols. Add a drop or two of lavender or citrus essential oil if you wish. Spritz on your body as desired.
Enticed by the bracing scent of the popular bay rum aftershave my father used, I was sure I could make a better product myself. And I think I did! This wonderful all-natural toner can be used as an aftershave to tighten and firm pores and also as an after-bath spray and facial spritzer and toner.
You can use bay laurel in this recipe, but I prefer California bay because it is so abundant and strongly scented. And though fresh leaves are really best to use, you can use dried leaves if they still smell intensely pungent. I’ve listed my favorite spice mix here, but you can adjust the spices (and the amounts) to suit yourself.
This recipe is the more traditional way to prepare rose water. Though it’s a little more involved, it’s fun to do and the results are generally outstanding. You can make a quart of excellent-quality rose water in about 40 minutes. But keep an eye on the clock. If you simmer the water too long, you produce an excess of distilled water and the rose essence will become overly diluted.
You’ll need a large pot with a rounded lid that can be inverted on top of the pot; the speckled blue canning pots are ideal. You’ll also need a brick and a heat-proof stainless steel or glass quart bowl. Be sure to use roses that have not been sprayed with insecticides.
The simple home still used in method #1 can be used to make other hydrosols, but it works best with plant material that is naturally high in essential oils, such as mints, citrus peel (preferably organic), and lavender. Don’t expect that every really fragrant flower will make a richly scented hyrdrosol. It doesn’t always. But with a little experimenting, you’ll be making excellent flower and herb hydrosols before the summer’s over!
Though rose water is generally made by distillation, this method of infusion is simple and effective, and it ensures a perfect rose water every time. Be sure you use fresh roses that have just begun to open; they are in their prime and will yield the strongest water. The more fragrant the roses, the stronger the scent of the rose water will be. Be sure to use only roses that have not been sprayed with insecticides.
Making herbal spritzers and sprays is so simple. They are a great “first herb project” for children and teens. They are wonderfully useful too, and can be used for a variety of purposes. Keep a bottle handy in the car when traveling; it’ll cool and refresh you quicker than air conditioning. My grandmother used to keep a jar filled with mint water in the car; when it got hot, she would use it to wet a washcloth and wipe our faces and exposed skin to cool us down.
Add a drop or two of Rescue Remedy to a lavender/lemon balm spritzer and use it to promote a calm mind-set during stressful situations. Add a drop or two of spruce or cedarwood essential oil to a spritzer and use it to refresh and disinfect. A spritzer of rose water (see Handmade Rose Water) is the perfect light astringent after facials and facial steams. I keep a white sage spritzer near the front entrance to my house and spritz whenever grounding and cleansing are needed. And I keep a bottle of “Love Everlasting” spritzer by my bedside — guess what for!
To make a spritzer, you will need a spray bottle (one that sprays a fine mist is best). There is endless variety in what you can add, but most spritzers are simply distilled water and a few drops of essential oil to enhance the water. It’s amazing, though, how much a spritzer can cost in a fancy department store. “Make and save” is my motto!
Combine the water and essential oil in a spritzer bottle, and shake vigorously before using. It will keep for a week or two. (To preserve the spritzer for a longer time period, add 1 tablespoon of vodka or brandy.)
I first started making this face cream over 40 years ago at a time when there were few, if any, all-natural creams on the market. There weren’t any recipes available, either, so I just played and experimented in my kitchen and after many tries, and the help of students and friends, I finally came up with a recipe that looked, smelled, and felt like a fine-quality cream. I’ve been happily making this now “famous” face cream and sharing it with others for the past several decades. I used to brag about how good my skin looked because I used this cream, but everyone’s skin looks good in their 20s! Now in my mid-60s, I still get compliments about my radiant skin, and I’m convinced it’s because of this face cream (well, I’m sure eating well and living a satisfying life helps just as much!).
I’m happy to share this wonderful recipe with you. It’s fairly easy to make, relatively inexpensive, and rich and deeply nourishing, and it can be personalized by substituting different oils and hydrosols to fit your skin type. Though considered a face cream, the rest of your body will benefit from it as well, and because it’s not nearly as expensive as those high-quality face creams advertised to eliminate every wrinkle and worry, you can indulge and lavish on your entire body.
What is essential to the success of the cream are temperature and the proper proportions of water to oil (group 1 to group 2). All ingredients should be at room temperature when you begin. The proportions should be roughly 1 part waters (group 1) to 1 part oils (group 2). The oils should break down as approximately 2 parts liquid oil (such as almond and apricot kernel) and 1 part solid oil (such as cocoa butter, coconut oil, beeswax, and lanolin. There can be some variation with proportions, but sticking as close as possible to the proportions cited here will ensure success in making the cream.
This basic formula, though excellent as is, can be further embellished with your own innovative spirit. There is a lot of room for creative input. Feel free.
The recipe calls for distilled water. You can use tap water, but it often has contaminants (molds or bacteria) that may develop on the cream when left at room temperature.
The aloe vera gel will make the cream heavier (not as light or fluffy) than if you were to use only water, but aloe also makes it very moisturizing and healing to the skin. For this formula, don’t use fresh aloe from your homegrown plants. Though fresh aloe is excellent for your skin, it doesn’t keep well. Use a commercial preparation or aloe gel that has been mixed with citric acid as a preservative. (And, as a reminder, don’t use this cream, or any aloe-based preparation, on a staph or strep infection, as aloe will “seal in” the infection.)
Though this recipe appears easy, it is also a bit challenging, as you are attempting to blend (emulsify) water and oil. Follow the recipe closely. If it doesn’t turn out the first time, don’t be discouraged. Let it sit in the blender until the liquid and oils separate (usually just a few hours or overnight); then pour off the liquid and try again. If it doesn’t come together on the first try, it generally seems to blend on the second. Or just leave it as is — pour it into a bottle and simply shake well before using.
The cream should never grow mold on it or go bad. If it does, you’ll find it’s generally because of one or more of the following:
Unlike many commercial creams that only coat the surface of the skin, this cream actually penetrates the epidermal layer and moisturizes the dermal layer of the skin. The water elements (water or hydrosol, aloe gel, essential oil, and vitamins) serve to moisturize the skin cells, while the oils seal in the moisture and serve as a protective skin barrier. Because it is extremely concentrated, a little goes a long way. Place a small amount (1⁄4 teaspoon or less) on the end of your finger, and gently massage it into your face. There will be a temporary feeling of oiliness that will disappear within a few minutes, as the cream is quickly absorbed. Though I recommend just a small amount on your face, you can be generous on the rest of your body.
The only real “rule” about this cream is that it never can be used with any negative thoughts about the body it’s being used on. Whenever you’re massaging and smoothing it over the creases and wrinkles of your face, and the contours of your body, do so with love. This is part of the cream’s magic and partly why it works so well.
You can personalize the recipe for Rosemary’s Perfect Cream in so many ways. Some of my favorite additions include the following:
There are so many ways you can adapt this basic cream recipe. However, a word of caution: Whenever you’re experimenting with a new ingredient, do so in small batches to see how it will turn out. Once you’ve found a formula you like, you can begin making bigger batches.
Facial serums, or elixirs, are the current rage in the cosmetics industry and are enthusiastically advertised and usually vastly overpriced (one has to pay for all that advertising, after all). If you look closely at the ingredients list of commercially prepared serums, you’ll see that they are expensive combinations of chemicals that we shouldn’t really put on our face. The promises these companies make for their products are highly exaggerated and unrealistic. But it’s very tempting, you must admit, to try these serums “at any cost,” especially when that face staring back at you each morning in the mirror looks a little less youthful than it did when you were 20. But don’t! You can make your own serums that are truly good for your skin — and easy on your wallet as well.
While no magical serum will take your skin backward in time, a healthy lifestyle regime that includes living foods, an abundance of fun and joyful exercise, and a good skin care program can keep you radiant and glowing from the inside out, so that your skin reflects your inner health and vitality. Facial serums can be an important part of a skin care program and can help regenerate and rejuvenate tired or damaged skin. Think of them as rich, concentrated food (or a healthy dessert!) for the skin.
Most serums include healing essential oils in a base of moisturizing and nutritive carrier oil, such as argan, jojoba, or macadamia oil. You can use herb-infused carrier oils (think calendula, comfrey, and lavender) to increase the healing properties of your serum. Experiment with different essential oils and try different carrier oil blends to see which are best for your skin. Here are two of my favorite recipes.
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Store in a dark glass container in a cool, dark place. Refrigerate for extended shelf life.
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Store in a dark glass container in a cool, dark place. Refrigerate for extended shelf life.
Serums are best used in the evening, before bedtime, when the oil can deeply penetrate in the warmth of your bed while your dreams work their magic. After you’ve cleansed your face and removed any oil residue or makeup, mist your face lightly with a hydrosol or toner to firm and tone the pores. Leave the spray on (don’t dry), as the added moisture is good for your skin. While your skin is still moist, take a few drops of facial serum onto your fingertips, and massage into your neck and face with gentle upward strokes.
Follow this skin care routine for radiant, glowing skin.
This treatment takes about 45 marvelous minutes and, for best results, should be done at least once or twice a month. By following this simple, inexpensive program, you can be assured of healthier, glowing skin within 2 to 3 months.
Lightly cleanse your face and neck with Miracle Grains. Use the grains to gently massage and stimulate the skin. The grains will massage off dry, dead skin cells, increase circulation to the surface of the skin, and provide a nourishing “meal” for your face. Rinse off the grains with warm water.
Select an Herbal Facial Steam formula that’s best for your skin type. Do a facial steam, following the instructions that accompany your chosen recipe. A facial steam is the best possible method for deep pore cleansing, and each of the herbs used is rich in nutrients that nourish and tone the skin. The aromatic oils of the plants are released by the heat and absorbed by the skin. And best of all, it feels so good!
Immediately after you complete your facial steam, rinse your face with cold water and gently pat with Queen of Hungary’s Water, rose water, or another hydrosol. Gently pat dry. Your face will feel smooth and will glow with radiance.
Facials are excellent for stimulating circulation to the skin by drawing fresh blood to the surface. They promote deep pore cleansing and help heal blemishes and acne. Facials also help tone and firm the skin.
There are several kinds of facials available. My favorites are made with a base of cosmetic clay, which is particularly suitable when you want a drawing, firming type of facial. Clay is very high in minerals and nourishes the skin. More importantly, these unique mineral deposits have seen a thousand sunrises and moonsets; they’ve been washed by powerful rainstorms and impregnated by lightning and thunder. We mix that clay with a little water and put it on our faces in the name of Cosmeos. Now that is pretty powerful medicine!
Which type of clay and facial ingredients you use will depend on your skin type:
For a more individualized clay facial, you can add many other therapeutic ingredients to the mask. Mashed ripe avocado, yogurt, banana, and a small amount of almond or grapeseed oil are but a few suggestions. Each will add its own special healing touch.
Immediately after rinsing off the facial, apply an astringent preparation to tone and close the pores. Use a cotton pad for application, or mist it onto your skin with a spritzer bottle. Choose from the following treatments:
The finishing touch is a light, delicate facial massage using your specially formulated Rosemary’s Perfect Cream. This is usually everyone’s favorite part, especially when someone else does it for you and you can just sit back and enjoy. Rub a small amount of cream in your palms, and then gently massage the outer edges of the face with your hands, always stroking upward and outward. Follow the contours of the face, using your fingers to trace the structure. You can use gentle tapping motions, circular motions, and sweeping motions up and away from the face.
Or use a facial serum if you prefer. Mist your face with a hydrosol or distilled water, and then apply a few drops of serum, massaging it gently into the skin using upward strokes.
While oil (and any oil-based product) protects and nourishes our skin, water replenishes and restores it. Water is our greatest moisturizer; oil serves to seal in the water and protect the skin. If you tend toward heat and dryness (with dry skin and/or a rosy complexion), be sure to drink adequate amounts of water daily. As a general rule, figure out your weight in pounds, and then drink half that number of ounces of water daily. For instance, if you weigh 120 pounds, try to drink on average 60 ounces of water daily. This is only a guideline, however; each individual is different. But most people do not drink enough water to keep well lubricated, juicy, and hydrated.
Richer than lotions and creams, body butters are lubricating, nourishing, and protective to the skin. However, because body butters don’t contain water, they aren’t as moisturizing as creams and lotions. Use body butters to lubricate, soothe, seal in moisture, and protect the skin. Use lotions and creams to moisturize.
Body butters — at least those all-natural kinds you make yourself — can also be used as personal lubricants. They can be especially helpful for women during menopause, when dryness can be an issue for outer skin as well as vaginal walls. (Body butters are not latex-friendly though, so be aware.)
Simple to make, body butters are combinations of semi-solid and solid oils. Try the following recipe, then personalize as you wish, adding other oils and essential oils that suit you best.
Body butter hardens as it cools, so don’t store in a narrow-necked bottle or you won’t be able to get at it! Use a container with an opening large enough to get your fingers in.
For those fun nights . . .
My husband prefers these bars to body butters and creams. He says the oils seem to stay on his hands longer and he enjoys the convenience of being able to keep a bar in his toolbox and truck, easily available and ready to use. And the bars are fun and quick to make! They are an especially fun project to make with children.
Use molds that fit the hand well; rounded molds and molds with soft edges are easier to use than square or pointed-edge molds.
You can easily make nourishing body, bath, and massage oils by infusing high-quality carrier oils with healing herbs. The combinations are infinite and can be personalized for your skin type. Here are a couple of my favorite formulas and the simple directions for making them. But experiment and have fun with your own blends of oils, herbs, and essential oils.
Use either of the two herb formulas listed here, depending on your skin type. And of course you should feel free to play with the formulas, tailoring them to suit your own needs.
People are often disappointed to find that the herbal scents aren’t as strong in the infused oil as they might wish. To enhance the scent, I add essential oil while mixing the dried herbs and then again at the end after straining the oil. This gives the oil a deeper, more “infused” scent.
Comfrey
This preparation is halfway between a cream and a body oil. It is richer and thicker than a body oil, but not as thick as a cream. I prefer it for massage because it’s not quite as oily and also because it’s more nourishing for the skin.
You can add more coconut oil or cocoa butter, depending on the thickness you wish. For the essential oil, my favorite scent for the past few decades has been a sensuous mix of sandalwood and vanilla. The sandalwood lends an exotic, almost intoxicating base note. The vanilla is sweet and warming, reminiscent of cookies and milk in Grandma’s kitchen, a safe and cozy place.
Sandalwood has a long history of being used in the incense industry, for cosmetics and as a healing herb. But it doesn’t always pay to be popular; sandalwood trees are in danger. They have been overharvested for so long for their wood and oil that they are now at risk of dying out. It is time for us to discontinue using the scent (frankincense, vetiver, and patchouli make good substitutes) or to use only sandalwood that has been grown sustainably, not harvested from wild sources. Also, let’s find ways to help replenish the sandalwood forests. To find out how, see the resources for information on United Plant Savers.
This is the nicest powder recipe I know of. Smooth and silky, it serves as a natural deodorizer because of its absorbent properties. It can be scented with any scent or combination of scents. And best of all, it’s simple and inexpensive to make. This recipe is a favorite one for young children to make. They can make a nice mess, end up with a great product, and have lots of fun doing it.