INTRODUCTION TO SICILY
To say that Sicily isn’t Italy is trite but true – only 3km of water separate the island from the Italian mainland, but the historical and cultural gulf is far wider. The locals see themselves as Sicilians first and Italians a very firm second, a difference that is celebrated at every turn. On this strategically located island at the heart of the Mediterranean, some of the western world’s greatest civilizations have left their indelible mark, from ancient temples to stunning mosaic-decorated churches. The distinct Sicilian language thrives, while many place names are derived from the Arabic that was once in wide use across the island, and markets brim with produce that speaks firmly of the south – oranges, lemons, olives, rice, almonds and peppers.
Moreover, the historic combination of island mentality and wild, lawless, mountainous interior has fostered an “us-and-them” attitude that still defines the relationship between modern-day Sicily and Italy. The island was probably the most reluctantly unified of all Italian regions back in the nineteenth century, with Sicilians unsurprisingly suspicious of the intentions of the latest in a long line of rulers – Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Angevins and Spanish. For many Sicilians, their place in the modern Italian state is illustrated every time they look at a map to see the island being kicked – the perpetual football.
And Sicilians do have a point. Pockets of the island have been disfigured by bleak construction projects and unsightly industry, and despite Sicily’s limited political autonomy, little has really been done to tackle the more deep-rooted problems: youth unemployment is at an all-time high, emigration of the brightest on the rise, poverty is seemingly endemic and there’s an almost feudal attitude to business and commerce. Aid and investment pour in, but much is still siphoned off by the Mafia. Visitors, of course, see little of this. Mafia activity, for example – almost a byword for Sicilian life when viewed from abroad – is usually an in-house affair, with little or no consequence for travellers.
What Sicily does offer is a remarkably fresh Mediterranean experience. Its main resorts and famous archeological sites have attracted visitors for many years, but budget airline routes have opened up lesser-known parts of this fascinating island, while boutique accommodation and sustainable tourism projects have mushroomed in recent years. The rewards are immediate, notably the dramatic landscapes that range from pin-prick outlying islands to the volcanic heights of Mount Etna. Much of the island is underpopulated, and outside the few tourist zones crowds are rare – which means plenty of opportunity to make your own personal discoveries: dazzling white- and black-sand beaches, sparkling coves, rolling wheat plains, upland wildflower meadows and precarious mountain passes. Sicily was an important powerbase during Greek and Roman times, and its excavated ancient cities and temples especially are superb, standing comparison with any ruins in Greece itself. There are stunning Arab and Norman palaces, churches and castles across the island, while the devastation wrought by the great earthquake of 1693 provided a blank slate for some of the most harmonious Baroque architecture to be seen in Europe.
Perhaps above all, there’s a distinct way of day-to-day living that separates Sicily from the rest of Italy – an almost operatic exuberance that manifests itself in some extraordinarily vibrant festivals and celebrations. You’re unlikely to forget the intensity of the Sicilian experience, whether you’re shopping for swordfish in a raucous souk-like market, catching a concert in a dramatic open-air Greek theatre, bathing in a hidden hot spring or island-hopping by hydrofoil across azure seas.
FACT FILE
- Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, with extensive areas of mountains in the north and east, the highest being Mount Etna (3323m) – Europe’s biggest active volcano. Apart from Etna’s sporadic eruptions, Sicily is also prone to seismic upheavals – massive earthquakes destroyed the southeast from Catania to Ragusa in 1693, Messina in 1908, and rocked the western part of the island in 1966.
- Sicily has a semi-autonomous status within the Italian republic, with its own parliament and president, and limited legislative powers in such areas as tourism, transport, industry and the environment. There is no separatist movement to speak of, though suspicion of central government runs deep.
- Compared to north Italy, the economy has remained relatively underdeveloped. Though there are pockets of industrial activity, Sicily is mainly agricultural. However, the sector has suffered considerable setbacks over recent years, while local fishermen struggle with quota restrictions and competition from international mega-boats that hoover up vast shoals of tuna. These days, tourism plays an increasingly crucial role in the Sicilian economy.
- One of the most densely populated islands in the Mediterranean, Sicily’s population is something over five million, with settlement mainly concentrated in the two cities of Palermo and Catania, on the northern and eastern coasts.
- Disregard for regulations long accepted in the rest of Europe is rife in Sicily, and this anarchic approach to the law manifests in myriad ways. Thanks to the local distaste for wearing seat belts, most garages now stock a device designed to override car safety systems and save drivers the irritation of bleeping belt alerts.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP PIAZZA IX APRILE, TAORMINA; NECROPOLIS, PANTALICA; PANAREA
CATACOMBS, CAVES AND HOLES IN THE GROUND
Sicily is home to some of the world’s creepiest tourist destinations, in the form of its catacombs and caves, used as burial places for thousands of years and accessible to anyone with a torch and a strong nerve. The oldest, the rock-cut tombs of the great necropolis at Pantalica, were first used in the thirteenth century BC. Another huge swathe of tombs is on view below the Greek temples at Agrigento, while catacombs riddle the ground in the city of Siracusa. But for sheer hands-in-the-air horror, there’s no beating the infamous preserved bodies that line the catacombs of Palermo’s Convento dei Cappuccini, or the smaller-scale show in the little village of Savoca, near Taormina. Bodies were placed here as late as the nineteenth century, and the locals used to pay daily visits, often standing in the adjacent niches to accustom themselves to the idea of the great ever-after.
Where to go
Set in a wide bay at the foot of a fertile valley, the capital, Palermo, is an essential part of any Sicilian visit, with a vibrant – almost Middle Eastern – flavour and featuring some of the island’s finest churches, historic treasures, markets and restaurants. It gets hot and stuffy here in summer, though, which makes escapes out of the city all the more tempting, above all to the offshore island of Ustica, or to the extraordinary church mosaics at Monreale. An hour east of Palermo, meanwhile, lies one of Sicily’s premier resorts, Cefalù, with its own fabulous church mosaics. Cefalù is also the jumping-off point for the Madonie natural park, whose mountains are the highest on the island after Etna.
Ferries and hydrofoils depart from Milazzo and Messina to the Aeolians, a stunning chain of seven volcanic islands – including the famed Stromboli – that attract sun-worshippers, celebrities and adventurous hikers alike. Otherwise, the northeastern tip of the island is marked by the bustling city of Messina – crossing-point to mainland Italy – with the fashionable resort of Taormina to the south, the latter perhaps the single most popular holiday destination in Sicily. Further south, halfway down the Ionian coast, dark, Baroque Catania is the island’s second city, dominated entirely by the graceful cone of Mount Etna, Europe’s largest and most active volcano.
The island’s best concentration of historical and architectural sites is arguably in Siracusa, where classical ruins and stunning Baroque buildings decorate Sicily’s most attractive city. In the southeast region beyond, beautiful towns like Noto, Ragusa and Modica were rebuilt along planned Baroque lines after the devastating 1693 earthquake, though the unique Neolithic cemeteries of Pantalica survived to provide one of Sicily’s most atmospheric backwaters.
After the richness of the southeast towns, many find the isolated grandeur of the interior a welcome change. This is the most sparsely populated region, of rolling hills and craggy mountains, yet it hides gems like the historic stronghold of Enna, the well-preserved Roman mosaics at Piazza Armerina, the majestic Greek excavations of Morgantina and the Baroque ceramics town of Caltagirone. Away from these few interior towns, remote roads wind back and forth, towards Palermo or Catania, through little-visited destinations like Corleone, whose names chime with the popular image of Sicily as a nest of Mafia intrigue.
Along the south coast, only the spectacular ancient temples of Agrigento and the Greek city and beach at Eraclea Minoa attract visitors in any numbers. Further around the coast, the up-and-coming city of Trapani anchors the west of the island, a great base for anyone interested in delving into the very different character of this side of Sicily. The Arabic influence is stronger here than elsewhere, especially in Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, while Selinunte and Segesta hold the island’s most romantic sets of ancient ruins. It’s from ports on the south and west coasts, too, that Sicily’s most absorbing outlying islands are reached. On Lampedusa, on the Egadi Islands and, above all, on distant Pantelleria, the sea is as clean as you’ll find anywhere in the Mediterranean, and you truly feel you’re on the edge of Europe.
ICE CREAM
Eating a genuine Sicilian ice cream is one of the world’s most voluptuous gastronomic experiences, a melt-in-the-mouth sensation that suffuses your tastebuds with the unadulterated essence of mandarin, almond, rose or whichever locally grown fruit, nut or flower the gelataio has decided is at its prime.
The art of ice cream making is around a thousand years old here – the Arabs brought with them the technique of making sherbet or sharbat by blending fruit syrups and flower essences with snow taken from Mount Etna and other mountains. It seems probable that it was a resourceful Sicilian who got the idea of making a good thing better, freezing a mixture of milk, sugar or honey. By the sixteenth century ices were all the rage at the trendsetting French court of Catherine de’ Medici, who imported a Sicilian into her kitchen with the sole job of making ice creams, granite and sorbets.
By the eighteenth century ices were so popular that virtually the entire revenue of the Bishop of Catania came from selling the snow of Mount Etna. Years when snowfall was scant or nonexistent provoked civil unrest during the steamy summers: in 1777 a boat rumoured to be carrying snow was attacked and its precious cargo seized by Siracusans desperate for ice cream.
Ices and ice creams were loved by rich and poor alike: at a banquet in eighteenth-century Palermo, 5000kg of snow were needed to keep the 300 guests in constant supply of frozen refreshment, while at the other end of the scale, street vendors throughout the island ensured that ice cream could be enjoyed by all but the very poorest, selling it by the spoonful to those who could afford no more.
When to go
Sicily can be an extremely uncomfortable place to visit at the height of summer, when the dusty scirocco winds blow in from North Africa. In July and August, you’ll roast – and you’ll be in the company of tens of thousands of other tourists all jostling for space on the beaches, in the restaurants and at the archeological sites. Hotel availability is much reduced and prices will often be higher. If you want the heat but not the crowds, go in May, June or September, while swimming is possible right into November.
Spring is really the optimum time to come to Sicily, and it arrives early: the almond blossom flowers in early February, and there are fresh strawberries in April. Easter is a major celebration, a good time to see traditional festivals like the events at Trapani, Erice, Scicli and Piana degli Albanesi, though again they’ll all be oversubscribed with visitors.
Winter is mild by northern European standards and is a nice time to be here, at least on the coast, where the skies stay clear and life continues to be lived very much outdoors. On the other hand, the interior – especially around Enna – is very liable to get snowed under, providing skiing opportunities in the Monti Madonie or on Mount Etna, while anywhere else in the interior can be subject to blasts of wind and torrential downpours of rain.
AUTHOR PICKS
Our authors have explored every corner of the island over several decades and here share some of their top tips, favourite sights, hidden gems and quintessential Sicilian experiences.
Unspoilt beaches Head for the wild sands of the nature reserves at Vendicari, Marinello or Zingaro, or to the long dune-fringed strands at Sampieri and Torre Salsa.
Ancient places When the Greeks ruled Sicily it was the most powerful centre in the Mediterranean. Outstanding among relics from this time are the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento, the temples of Segesta and Selinunte, and the theatres of Siracusa, Palazzolo Acreide, Tindari and Taormina.
Hot, hot, hot Sicily is crossed by a fault line, and has three active volcanoes – Etna, Stromboli and Vulcano. As well as visible eruptions – most reliably and regularly on Stromboli – there are other vulcanological phenomena too, from the steaming mud baths of Vulcano to emissions of underwater gases off the island of Panarea.
Baroque and roll Sicilian Baroque reaches heights of exuberance not seen elsewhere in Italy, from the chiaroscuro exotica of Catania and the palaces of Ortigia to the flamboyant towns of Noto, Modica, Scicli and Ragusa.
Away from it all Come to Sicily out of season – late autumn, winter or spring – and head to the Egadi, Aeolian or Pelagie islands for guaranteed solitude. Or find peace inland, exploring the Madonie or Nébrodi mountains or the Pantalica gorge.
Our author recommendations don’t end
here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an
atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the
symbol.
18 THINGS NOT TO MISS
It’s not possible to see everything Sicily has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the island’s highlights – extravagant architecture, dramatic landscapes, idyllic islands and exciting outdoor adventures. All the highlights have a reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.
1 Mount Etna Climbing Europe’s greatest volcano – still very active – is the ultimate Sicilian adventure trip.
2 Siracusa As well as the ruins of a magnificent ancient Greek city, Siracusa has a Baroque centre with plenty of places to sit and relax.
3 Segesta Transport yourself back in time with a visit to the dramatic Greek temple at Segesta.
4 Egadi Islands The three west-coast Egadi Islands retain a real air of adventure, offering boat tours, fishing trips and excursions.
5 Monreale These delicate cloister columns are immaculate examples of medieval craftsmanship.
6 Villa Romana del Casale These brightly coloured mosaics are unrivalled in the Roman world.
7 Valle dei Templi, Agrigento A stunning series of ancient Greek temples, beautifully lit up at night.
8 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro This beautiful nature reserve offers great walks and spectacular marine scenery.
9 Linosa This remote and tiny volcanic island is the perfect place to get away from it all.
10 Pescheria, Catania The city’s vibrant fish market lives up to its top reputation.
11 Cefalù With a fabulous sandy beach and an alluring historic centre, Cefalù has it all.
12 Aeolian Islands Go island-hopping, Sicilian-style – each of the seven Aeolians has a distinct flavour of its own.
13 Sampieri This tremendous sandy beach is perfect for long strolls or swims.
14 Teatro Greco, Taormina This magnificently located ancient theatre is still in use and offers wonderful views towards Etna and down to the sea.
15 Ragusa Ibla With its perfectly restored tangle of streets and some excellent restaurants and hotels, this is one of Sicily’s most engaging destinations.
16 Cava Grande del Fiume Cassibile Sicily’s magnificent cave-riddled canyon has wonderful walks, breathtaking views and natural swimming pools for cooling off.
17 Monti Madonie The Madonie mountains offer magnificent walks, drives and views.
18 Noto This totally Baroque town boasts some of Sicily’s most exuberant examples of the style.
FROM LEFT BARRACUDA, USTICA; DUOMO, CEFALÙ; MODICA CHOCOLATE
ITINERARIES
These itineraries are designed to give you a taste of Sicily’s many and varied attractions. Our Grand Tour takes in unmissable historic towns, ancient sites and natural attractions; we’ve also picked out the most outstanding gastronomic experiences and the best destinations for a taste of adventure.
THE GRAND TOUR
Follow in the footsteps of illustrious travellers such as D.H. Lawrence, Jules Verne and Goethe and make a two-week Grand Tour of the island’s highlights.
Palermo See the glories left behind by Sicily’s Norman rulers, such as the vibrant mosaics of the Cappella Palatina, then visit the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia to marvel at the island’s best collection of medieval art, and take a trip to Monreale to revel in the jewel-box hues of the mosaics in its Duomo.
Cefalù Feast your eyes on magnificent mosaics in the town’s cathedral, then spend a lazy afternoon on one of Sicily’s finest sandy beaches.
The Aeolian Islands Climb Stromboli, Europe’s most active volcano, then wind down on the island’s picture-perfect village of sparkling-white cubic houses awash with bougainvillea.
Taormina Spoil yourself with a night in one of the town’s many historic hotels, and take a day-trip by jeep up Mount Etna.
Siracusa Spend a couple of days in historic Ortigia, taking in masterpieces by Caravaggio and Antonello da Messina, and an ancient Greek temple converted into a cathedral. Devote another day to the Archeological Museum and beautifully preserved Greek theatre.
Piazza Armerina Stay overnight to linger over the extensive ruins of a Roman villa, decorated with splendid mosaics.
Agrigento Set aside at least a day to explore the Valley of the Temples, and leave time enough to see the site museum’s marvellous collection of Greek black-figure pottery. Fans of crime writer Andrea Camilleri should add an extra day to see the Porto Empedocle and Agrigento locations that inspired the Montalbano novels.
Ragusa Ibla Spend a day or two admiring some of Sicily’s finest Baroque architecture, then splash out on a gourmet dinner before flying home from the new airport at nearby Comiso.
FOODIES’ SICILY
Eating in Sicily is a gastronomic trip through time – from the indigenous vegetables that have been eaten since dwarf mammoths roamed the island, to the exotic flavours of rose-petal and jasmine flowers, cinnamon and saffron brought by the Arabs.
Palermo Graze on local street food such as soft rolls stuffed with chickpea-flour fritters, or sautéed offal with ricotta and caciocavallo cheese.
Aeolian Islands Head to the island of Salina to taste malvasia wine in local cantinas, discover myriad uses for the bud of the caper flower, and sample what may well be the best granitas in Sicily.
Catania Drink a fizzy seltz, made with lemon and salt or sweet fruit syrup and sold from kiosks throughout the city centre, and visit the best fish market on the island.
Etna Tour Etna’s vineyards and look out for stalls selling tiny apples and pears, hazelnuts, chestnuts and Sicily’s famous tarrocco blood oranges, grown in the volcanic soil of the plains below.
Bronte This town in the foothills of Etna produces the best pistachios on the island.
Noto The two outstanding gelaterias here are famous throughout Italy – skip lunch and sample delectable cones of saffron and basil, dark chocolate and orange, or the classic jasmine or rose petal.
Modica Made using a technique developed by the Aztecs and introduced to Sicily by the Spanish, Modica’s chocolate is powerful, gritty-textured stuff, and comes in flavours ranging from chilli to vanilla.
SICILY OUTDOORS
With its extensive coastline, offshore islands, volcanoes and rugged mountains, Sicily offers plenty of scope for outdoor adventures.
Ustica Dive the fabulous waters around the island of Ustica to see a submarine wonderland of plants, fish and fabulous rock formations.
Aeolian Islands Climb the active volcanoes or dive over shipwrecks and bubbles made by emissions of volcanic gas.
Mount Etna See Mount Etna by quad bike in summer, or go cross-country or downhill skiing in the winter.
Gole dell’Alcantara Wade up the river that gouges between the dramatic volcanic rocks of the Alcantara Gorge.
Cava Grande Take a trek in this marvellous gorge to discover cave-habitations, rushing streams, swimmable pools and fabulous views.
The Vendicari Nature Reserve Take a hike in spring or autumn, when the salt lakes attract migratory birds such as flamingos.