FIRE-ROASTED BEETS

SERVES 4 / TIME: 1 HR

The best way to cook beets is to slow roast, not boil them, to bring out the earthy smokiness and intensify the sweetness. Roast them over a bonfire and pass them around with lemon wedges and salt. So simple and good. If you don’t have a fire, use an oven or grill.

4 to 6 medium to large red beets, scrubbed but not peeled (save the tops and stems for Beet Top & Stem Salsa, here)

1 lemon, halved

Salt, to taste

Wrap the beets in foil. If I have access to a fire pit, I put the wrapped beets right in the embers, to slow cook for about an hour. But since I don’t know the temperature of the fire, I test for doneness by sticking a knife into the beets after 40 minutes; when it goes through cleanly, the beets are done.

The wrapped beets can also be roasted in a 400°F oven for 40 minutes, until a knife goes through them easily.

Unwrap the beets from the foil and let cool. Cut into wedges and season with a squeeze of lemon and salt.

DRIED BEETS

SERVES 4 / ACTIVE TIME: 10 MIN / TOTAL TIME: 6 HRS or longer

I sometimes call these Forgotten Beets, because they make the most of beets that have been left sitting in the bottom of the refrigerator drawer. Lucky for us forgetful cooks, rehydrating after drying them makes them chewy and sweet. Serve as part of the Beet Picnic (here) or with a beet granita (see Carrot Top Granita, here) and whipped yogurt for dessert.

8 to 12 whole red beets, ugly, misshapen, and wrinkled is great, scrubbed but not peeled and cut into 2-inch logs

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

⅔ cup Beet Juice Vinaigrette (here)

Special equipment: Dehydrator with temperature gage.

In a medium bowl, toss the beets with the oil, vinegar, and salt. Dehydrate at 150°F (or dry in the oven; see here) for 6 hours, until they are completely dry and shriveled.

Store immediately in an airtight container for up to 6 months. When ready to serve, reconstitute in the Beet Juice Vinaigrette for 1 hour.

BEET CHILI SAUCE

MAKES 2 CUPS, 4 SERVINGS / TIME: 30 TO 40 MIN

I toss this slightly spicy sauce with Beet Pulp Wide Pasta (here), then finish with shavings of salted fish or meat, and lemon juice to taste. You can also use this in place of other chili or hot sauces.

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

4 cups beet juice, from a home juicer or local juice or smoothie shop

2 tablespoons Asian chili bean sauce

In a small pot, combine the butter, beet juice, and chili bean sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the sauce is reduced by half, about 30 minutes.