STATEN ISLAND
Sometimes referred to as “the forgotten borough,” Staten Island is primarily a bedroom community, sharing more in common with New Jersey than with New York. Still, the Staten Island Ferry is a thrilling – and free – ride, and while you’re over there, you might as well take a look around.
212-639-9675. www.siferry.com. Departs year-round daily from Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan about every 30min (hourly midnight–6am). 1 train to South Ferry or R train to Whitehall St.
Who said there were no free rides in life? The Staten Island Ferry, which shuttles commuters back and forth between Manhattan and “the forgotten borough,” is a free tour – and offers some of the best views of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty that you’re likely to find at any price.
On the five-mile voyage, which takes 25 minutes each way, the boat skirts the Statue of Liberty. On the return trip, you can zoom in on the lower New York skyline.
2 Hylan Blvd. 718-816-4506. www.aliceausten.org. Open Mar–Dec, Thu–Sun, noon–5pm. Closed Jan, Feb & major holidays. $2 suggested donation. From the ferry terminal, take S51 bus to Hylan Blvd (15min).
Pioneer photographer Alice Austen (1866–1952) captured turn-of-the-century life in New York City, snapping elite society gatherings and immigrant scenes alike. Restored according to her own photographs, this Victorian cottage displays changing exhibits, including prints from her glass-plate negatives.
441 Clarke Ave. 718-351-1611. www.historicrichmondtown.org. Open Jul–Aug, Wed–Sun, 11am– 5pm. Rest of the year Wed–Sun, 1pm–5pm. Closed Mon, Tue & major holidays. $5. From the ferry terminal, take S74 bus to Richmond Rd./ St. Patrick’s Pl (30min).
Summertime is “living-history season” at this 25-acre village, with costumed interpreters demonstrating crafts (tinsmithing, printmaking) and telling stories about life in the former county seat. Don’t miss the late-17C Voorlezer House, thought to be the oldest elementary school in the US.
Jacques Marchais Museum of Tibetan Arta
338 Lighthouse Ave. 718-987- 3500. www.tibetanmuseum.org. Open spring–summer, Wed–Sun, 1pm–5pm (fall–winter Thu–Sun). Closed major holidays. $6. From the ferry, take S74 bus to Lighthouse Ave. (30min).
This museum has a rare collection of art and artifacts from Tibet, Nepal, China, Mongolia and India. Topping Lighthouse Hill amid terraced gardens and lily ponds, the museum buildings resemble a small Buddhist mountain temple.
EXCURSIONS FROM NEW YORK CITY
You’ll be surprised how quickly the city melts away as you head north along the Hudson River or east out to Long Island. Drive north along US-9 and you’ll discover a rich landscape of highlands and history. If you’re craving the feel of sand between your toes, navigate toward the Long Island Expressway to reach some of the finest beaches and best-protected harbors on the Atlantic Coast.
Ñ Take I-87 North to I-287 West to US-9 North and continue north, following Rte. 9D along the east bank of the river.
After seeing sites in Hyde Park, backtrack south and cross the river at Poughkeepsie, returning along the west bank on Rte. 9W. See map. Tourist information 800-232-4782; www.travelhudsonvalley.org. Historic homes may be visited by guided tour only.
A remarkable concentration of historic homes in the Hudson River Valley reflects the early-17C Dutch settlement pattern, which carved feudal estates out of the land flanking the river. When the English took over in 1664, they turned these estates into lordly manors. In the 1800s the region’s wild beauty inspired artists of the Hudson River school – including Frederic Edwin Church, Thomas Cole and Albert Bierstadt – to paint sweeping landscapes. Today, along with historic mansions, you'll find small towns (Cold Spring, Rhinebeck) nestling near the riverbanks, chock-a-block with antiques stores, boutiques and bistros.
The Castle on the Hudson
400 Benedict Ave., Tarrytown. 914-631-1980 or 800-616-4487. www.castleonthehudson.com. 31 rooms. Over $300. Resembling a medieval castle with its towers and arched windows, this 1910 mansion-turned-inn 25 miles north of New York City tops a hill overlooking the Hudson. Inside, period tapestries soften the stone walls, while hand-carved four-poster beds and custom-made chandeliers decorate the guest rooms. Save time for a meal at Equus, where you’ll dine on memorable French cuisine.
Ñ Rte. 9D, 4mi north of junction with Rte.
403, Garrison. 845-265-3638. www.boscobel.org. Open Apr–Oct, Wed–Mon, 9.30am–5pm. Nov–Dec, Wed–Mon, 9.30am–4pm. Closed Jan–Mar, Tue, Thanksgiving Day & Dec 25. $16.
Fans of the Federal style love this elegant manor, built in the early 1800s but moved in pieces to this site overlooking the Hudson in the 1950s. The restored interior features graceful arches, fireplaces embellished with classical motifs, carved woodwork and Duncan Phyfe furnishings.
Home of FDR National Historic Siteaa
Ñ Rte. 9, Hyde Park. 845-486-1966.
www.nps.gov/hofr. Open year-round daily 9am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving Day & Dec 25. $14 (free for children under 15).
You’ll feel as if you know the Roosevelt family personally after a visit to this 300-acre estate, which is bursting with historic memorabilia. Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s father bought the site in 1867, and FDR was born here in 1882. In the rose garden, a simple white-marble monument marks the final resting place of FDR and his wife, Eleanor.
Vanderbillt Mansion National Historic Siteaa
Rte. 9, Hyde Park. 845-229-7770. www.nps.gov/vama. Open year-round, daily, 9am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving Day & Dec 25. $8.
This sumptuous Beaux-Arts estate, designed in 1898 for Frederick W. Vanderbilt, recalls a bygone era of wealth and opulence. The art and furnishings in the house range from Renaissance to rococo, typifying the lavish lifestyle of American "nobility" in the early 20C.
Culinary Institute of America
1946 Campus Dr., Hyde Park. 845-471-6608. www.ciachef.edu.
Here, 2,400 chefs-in-training hone their skills in five restaurants (you may be sampling the work of the next star in the culinary firmament). Reservations required.
Ñ Rte 9 North, Sleepy Hollow.
914-631-3992. www.hudsonvalley.org. Open early-May–early Nov, Wed–Mon, 9am–3pm (week-ends until 4pm). Closed mid-Nov–late Apr. Tours $23–$40.
Dutch for “lookout,” Kykuit (pronounced “KYE-cut”) is the most picturesque of the Hudson Valley estates. The house was built between 1906 and 1913 by John D. Rockefeller Jr. for his father, the patriarch of Standard Oil. In all, Kykuit has housed four generations of Rockefellers. Inside you’ll find antique Chinese porcelains, tapestries and a fine collection of modern art amassed by Nelson D. Rockefeller. The lovely terraced gardensa contain sculptures by such artists as Picasso, Louise Nevelson and Isamu Noguchi.
On the west bank of the Hudson off Rte. 9; exit Rte. 107 and turn left; turn right on Rte. 32 and follow signs. 845-534-3115. www.stormking.org. Open Apr–mid-Nov, Wed–Sun, 10am–5.30pm (early–mid-Nov closing 5pm). Closed rest of the year. $12.
This unique outdoor museum combines large-scale contemporary sculptures with individually tailored settings that present each work to best effect. The pastoral landscape of meadows, hillsides, forests and terraced lawns features works by Alexander Calder, Mark diSuvero, Henry Moore, Louise Nevelson, Isamu Noguchi and many others. Most of the works were installed on-site.
Ñ On the west bank of the Hudson off US-9 West; take the exit for West Point/Highland Falls. 845-938-2638. www.usma.edu. Visitor center open daily, 9am–4.45pm. Grounds may be visited by 1hr or 2hr guided tour only; call 845-446-4724 or go to www.westpointtours.com for schedule. $11.
The prestigious U.S. Military Academy was established here in 1802, on the site of Fortress West Point, a 1778 series of fortifications overlooking the Hudson at one of its most narrow points. In 1780 Benedict Arnold, the fort’s commander, schemed to hand West Point over to the British (the plan was thwarted). In the Academy’s first year, 10 students graduated; today there are more than 4,400 cadets here.
Try to plan your visit to coincide with one of the Academy’s spectacular parades, known for their precision of movement (Sept–Nov & late Apr–May). Be sure to visit the museumaa, where you’ll find out everything you ever wanted to know about the history of the military.
From end to end, Long Island is a study in extremes. On the western tip you have ultra-urban Brooklyn and Queens; on the eastern tip, 118 miles away, lie the dramatic bluffs of Montauk. In between are vast tracts of suburban development. But that’s not all. Long Island boasts many sandy beaches and seafaring towns. Although the North Shore is rockier and more dramatic than the South Shore (which is protected by several long barrier islands), both are equally worth exploring.
Long Island has three major highways: The Long Island Expwy. (I-495, aka “the LIE”), the Northern State Pkwy. and the Southern State Pkwy.
The Queens–Midtown Tunnel, accessible at Second Ave. and E. 36th St., leads directly onto the Long Island Expwy. For tourist information, contact Long Island Convention and Visitors Bureau (877-386-6654; www.licvb.com).
Rte. 25A at Main St., Stony Brook. 631-751-0066. www.longislandmuseum.org. Open year-round Fri–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Closed Mon–Thu & major holidays. $9 ($4 ages 6–17).
This kid-friendly complex incorporates museums of art, history and carriages, as well as a blacksmith shop, a schoolhouse and a barn. Plan on spending most of your time in the carriage museum, ogling the 250 horse-drawn carriages that range from Gypsy wagons to children’s vehicles (pulled by goats or dogs).
Old Bethpage Village Restorationaa
1303 Round Swamp Rd., Old Bethpage. 516-572-8400.
www.nassaucountyny.gov. Open Apr–Dec, Wed–Sat, 10am–4pm, Sun 11am–5pm. $10.
Take a stroll through this pre-Civil War village and watch the weaver make cloth, the farmer’s wife prepare a meal, and farmers work their fields. More than 55 historic buildings have been moved here from their original locations and staffed with costumed interpreters, creating a museum that’s especially fun for families.
South Shore, about 100mi east of New York City. 877-386-6654 or www.discoverlongisland.com.
Home to the glitterati, Long Island’s most renowned vacation spot forms a loose-knit chain of towns running 35 miles along the South Shore, from Westhampton Beach to Amagansett.
The Lobster Roll
1980 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett. 631-267-3740. www.lobsterroll.com. Closed Nov–mid-Apr. Sand dunes may surround this highway shanty, but don’t let the beachy atmosphere fool you. The famous lobster rolls draw celebrity locals like Barbra Streisand, Kathleen Turner and Alec Baldwin.
Try bohemian Southamptona for superb estates and pricey shops, and the port of Sag Harbora (northeast of Southampton via Rtes. 27 & 79; www.sagharborchamber.com) for charm.
Westhampton Beach is a lively resort, where New Yorkers – especially writers, musicians and artists – like to spend their free weekends.
East Hampton has long attracted writers and artists (Childe Hassam, Jackson Pollock and Stuart Davis all lived here).
The laid-back town of Montauk, at the island's easternmost tip, offers beachfront hotels, seafood restaurants and bars plus dramatic cliffs and sea views. A 15-mile-long public beach runs from Moriches Inlet to Shinnecock Inlet.
Planting Fields Rd., Oyster Bay. 516-922-9200. www.plantingfields.org. Grounds open year-round daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. $8/car (summer months and fall weekends only).
Planting Fields
KKMPhotos/Long Island CVB
Flower power rules at financier William Robertson Coe’s former estate, 409 acres of which have been preserved as an arboretum, with greenhouses, rolling lawns, formal gardens, hiking paths and more. The exquisite Tudor mansion may be visited by guided tour (Apr–Sept 11.30am–3.30pm; $3.50; 516-922-9210).
Cold Spring Harbor Whaling Museuma
279 Main St., Cold Spring Harbor. 631-367-3418. www.cshwhalingmuseum.org. Open year-round, Tue–Sun 11am–5pm. $6 ($4 ages 5–18).
More fun for kids, this museum brings back the town’s 1850s heyday as a whaling port. Exhibits include a fully equipped 19C whaleboat, harpoons, navigational instruments, an orca skull and scrimshaw (whalebone carvings), the whaler’s folk art.
Sagamore Hill National Historic Sitea
Cove Neck Rd., Oyster Bay. 516-922-4788. www.nps.gov/sahi. Mansion open by guided tour only, late May–Labor Day daily 9am–5pm; rest of the year Wed–Sun 9am–5pm. Closed major holidays. $5.
Though this site includes a museum and a visitor center, the 1885 Queen Anne mansion, Teddy Roosevelt’s former residence, is the main attraction here. Many of its 23 rooms appear as they did during Roosevelt’s presidency (1901–09), with more than 90 percent of the family’s original furnishings.
20 W. Main St., Oyster Bay. 516-922-6808. www.raynhamhallmuseum.org. Open year- round, Tue–Sun 1pm–5pm. Closed major holidays. $5.
This old colonial farmhouse was the home of Samuel Townsend, whose son Robert was George Washington's chief intelligence agent in New York City during the American Revolution. For a time the house served as a British headquarters, despite the fact that the Townsends' sympathies lay with the Patriots. Inside you'll find period furniture and memorabilia dating from the 1770s through the 1870s.
180 Little Neck Rd., Centerport. 631-854-5555. www.vanderbiltmuseum.org. Open year-round, Tue & Fri noon–4pm, Sat 11am– 5pm, Sun noon–5pm. $12 ($7 grounds only).
William K. Vanderbilt II – “Willie K” – was a lifelong traveler, expert yachtsman and racecar driver. The 24-room, Spanish Revival-style mansion houses natural history collections in the Habitat Wing. There’s also a marine museum with ship models, and a planetarium.
71 Old Westbury Rd., Old Westbury. 516-333-0048. www.oldwestburygardens.org. Open mid-Apr–Oct, Wed–Mon 10am–5pm (last entry 4pm). $10.
The formal English gardens, with their grand allées, statues and lakes, form the centerpiece of this historic 160-acre estate, former home of John S. Phipps and his family. The Charles II-style mansion is beautifully preserved; don't miss the fine period furnishings, decorative objects and paintings by Thomas Gainsborough and John Singer Sargent.
Beaches of Long Island
Had enough of history? Then hit the beach! On the North Shore, Sunken Meadow State Parka (631-269-4333; www.nysparks.com) has a large, fine-sand beach as well as recreational activities such as hiking and golf. On the South Shore you can spread your towel at Jones Beach State Parkaa (516-785-1600; www.nysparks.com), a barrier island boasting 6.5 miles of beaches along ocean and bay; car-free Fire Islanda, which encompasses the 1,400-acre Fire Island National Seashorea (631-687-4750; www.nps.gov/fiis) and an idyllic beachfront state park; or the Hamptonsaa.
631-298-5757; www.northfork.org.Roughly 25 miles east of Stony Brook, the Long Island Expressway ends and the island splits in two, like the tines of a fork. For decades the South Fork, home to the Hamptons and white-sand beaches, has seized the lion's share of the tourist trade, but in recent years the more-rural North Fork is taking on new life, thanks to a boomlet of charming bed-and-breakfast inns and award-winning wineries.
Strung out along 24 miles of Route 25, the North Fork's quaint towns boast a number of new wine bars and exciting new restaurants, all amid rolling farmland, vineyards and orchards. The heart of Long Island’s winery region lies between Jamesport and Southold; check the Long Island Wine Council website for winery hours and helpful maps (www.liwines.com).
127 Middleneck Rd., Port Washington. 516-571-7900.
www.thesandspointpreserve.com. Estate open year-round daily, 8am–4pm. Guided tours of Falaise ($6) May–Oct, Thu–Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm.
This former Gold Coast estate, bought as undeveloped land in 1900 by Howard Gould (son of railroad magnate Jay Gould), reflects the opulent lifestyles of New York's wealthy ”robber baron” families during the Gilded Age. Gould built the massive, Tudor-style Hempstead House before selling off the property to Daniel Guggenheim in 1917.
Falaise, Guggenheim's Normandy-style manor house, perches on a bluff above Long Island Sound, and contains a wonderful collection of 16C and 17C French and Spanish antiques. Don't miss the spectacular views of Long Island Sound from the loggia at the rear of the house.
Bayard Cutting Arboretum State Parka
Rte. 27A, Oakdale. 631-581-1002. www.bayardcuttingarboretum.com. Open Apr–Oct, Tue–Sun 10am–5pm; rest of the year 10am–4pm. $6/vehicle (Apr–Oct).
Created in 1887 by William Cutting according to plans by legendary landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the arboretum covers 690 acres of woodlands and planted areas. Many of the specimens in the pinetum date back to the original plantings of fir, spruce, pine and other evergreens. Rhododendrons and azaleas (in bloom May–June) border the walks and drives; wildflowers add blazes of color throughout the park.