‘We saw the 25th Regiment of Calvary reviewed … they are reckoned a very fine body of men, being all very young, and not having been long in India, did not appear to have yet suffered from the heat of the climate.’
From the moment we came into the Nawab’s country the appearance of everything changed. The country was fertile and the people poor. A little before we came to the choultry one of his highnesses calmly made his appearance, not riding remarkably well or very well dressed … His followers were many and made more noise than could have been supposed even by Musulmen …
Arcot had special relevance for Henrietta as it was the scene of the battle that the young Robert Clive of India took almost single handedly in 1751. Orme had written of that event, ‘Thus ended this siege, maintained fifty days under every disadvantage of situation, and force, by a handful of men in their first campaign, with a spirit worthy of the most veteran troops.’
In the evening Henrietta, Anna, Charly and Harry went to see the fort which was in ill repair. Charly noted their attempt to see ‘the famous breach made in the wall of the fort when Grandpapa invested it in the year 1751, but as it was dark we could not be satisfied as much as we could wish, and I regretted our not being able to see it by daylight’. Afterwards they were shown a beautiful mosque. Charly wrote: ‘A priest was employed in the mosque whose duty it was to strew fresh flowers on the graves every morning and evening, a duty the Musulmans ever pay the dead, who in their lives had performed actions which claimed their gratitude.’
They also paid the Dewan a visit. Charly described their reception in ‘a room beautifully illuminated and perfumed. He (the Dewan) was magnificently dressed in white, trimmed with gold and green embroidery; his son was dressed nearly the same.’
Before I arrived at the cavalry cantonment near Arcot, I was met by Colonel St Leger, Colonel Blaquiere and Captain James Grant, with some of the 6th Black Regiment of Cavalry, just raised by the former, and some of the 19th Dragoons. Col St Leger’s Soudabar, as he came to receive me, came in between the body-guard and my palanquin, which Giaffer could not suffer, but brought his troops round directly between them and myself. I had the whole Guard [26] with the addition of Col St Leger’s and Col Blaquiere’s, which came on each side; and though the honour was great, the heat and dust were by no means pleasant. The house is large and pleasantly situated, so as to receive any air that blows, and had a large verandah round it. Col St Leger was so good as to give up his house entirely to me.
March 14th The morning was extremely foggy and unfavourable at first, but it soon passed over and was very cool and pleasant. It is impossible to say enough of the regiment. The men ride better than any I ever saw before. The horses were of a larger size than common and the whole in good condition; and though I expected much it was more than equal to my expectations. The Gallopers* were the first I had seen with cavalry. They went at an astonishing rate, and fired with equal expedition. It is certainly the most perfect regiment I ever saw, yet I think those in the charge of the Bodyguard last year halted with a more perfect line. The old Soubadar of the Bodyguard, who was there, said it was beyond all praise. The officers of the 25th breakfasted with Col St Leger.
I heard that the people are so much convinced of the mildness and advantage of the English Government over that of the Nawab. The taxes are now so high that many are gone into Mysore, and many to the west, and many to the Company’s districts. When the Nawab’s son came here six weeks ago, all the richer people went away directly. He came to receive presents and very often if what is offered is not thought sufficient the Prince has no scruple of asking for more money. He was however very disappointed and got very little plunder.
On March 14th Charly wrote succinctly about seeing the 25th Regiment of Cavalry reviewed: ‘They are reckoned a very fine body of men, being all very young, and not having been long in India, did not appear to have yet suffered from the heat of the climate.’ That night the travellers slept in their tents, as they were to resume their journey the next day.
* Field guns