‘We heard many peacocks in the wood but saw neither elephants nor any wild beasts except the real inhabitants who are as near savages and some of Captain Cook’s drawings than anything I ever saw.’
Left Mysore at 6 in the morning and passed through the most beautiful and fertile country that I have seen in Asia. There are woods, many tanks and the whole surrounded by distant hills. I have never been so much pleased as with this morning’s drive. I came to a pretty village near the River Kaprone and presently after to the bridge. It consists of fifty-four narrow gothic arches. The supports are about six feet thick … The river is very rapid. It is paved and shaped, as our best English roads are made, covered with drains on each side to carry off the rainwater. From the centre of it the view is very charming. Below there is a view of a large pagoda rimmed with trees and the river winding near it. The other side is a pretty view up to a small hill not unlike an English common. The tents were placed at some distance from the bank but we removed them and it was one of the most beautiful and cheerful scenes I have met with. There is a small island between the encampment and the rivers joined near where my tent was placed.
After raving at you for a long time, your letter has arrived this very moment, but too late for me to say all your civilities to the Ranee as we are thirteen miles from Mysore. I was very glad that I said a good many things last night like what you say. In the morning Signora A went to do the pictures, which are very like. The Ranee asked about me and said she was in hopes to have seen you too and asked about my boys and many other questions. I offered to go without form in the evening if she wished it, which she accepted. She said that she had brought up the Rajah, but that he was now your son and she hoped you would take care of him. That she had suffered much from Tipu, but that now she hoped all her sufferings were over and that as the country was in the hands of the English she did not fear anything. I had asked for her picture for myself. She seemed much pleased with those of the boys and the girls and asked if I had one of you, which I am sorry I had not. We stayed there sometime. The little Rajah was put in his throne. The men all called in again and after a little dancing and singing we were dispatched and I believe she was pleased with this second visit.
Bucherow goes with us to the pass as well as Mrs Gordon and Allen Grant who are both most certainly civil, good humoured and obliging. Mrs Gordon is well and nursing a little girl.
I send you a letter from Mrs Rothman. She is quite well and Lord Wellesley has offered to be godfather therefore they have desired me to be godmother which I shall perform.
We leave for the Annamallee woods and Coimbatoor with great pleasure I assure you. It is altogether a long journey. Therefore we go on as quickly as we can and will do all you desire about the trees and get you the redwood if possible. You will have a great many sandalwood trees given me by Purneah’s order. I answer writing by the side of a most beautiful river, more like Europe than any I have ever seen. You have nothing like it in the Carnatic. There are the ruins of a magnificent old pagoda. It is beautiful and much the most so of any place I have seen. It is very odd nobody ever mentioned it as a beautiful place.
Major Macleod meets us at the pass and goes with us to Coimbatoor. All is perfectly safe. When your picture of the Rajah is done, I must send a copy of it to the Ranee. I desired Signora Anna to do it sitting on his throne as we saw him. Adieu. It is late. I shall probably write from the top of the pass again. Many loves to you. I have performed what you desired and given them the kiss on their cheeks, which are still very blooming. Adieu. I am really glad to have had a letter from you, which I have been long expecting.
Ever my dear lord, yours very affec
H. A. C.
I had a letter from Lord Clive today with many messages and things for me to say to the Ranee, which I am very sorry, came too late for me to do it in person. But as Bucherow came with me I took an opportunity in the evening of desiring Captain Marriot to tell the passages to him with which he seemed much pleased. I showed him the portrait of the Rajah, which he thought very like. We showed him the Ranee’s, but he turned his head away and said it was not to be seen, but however that it was very like her. I went to see a large pagoda in the evening surrounded by a very extensive choultry on each side and ornamented over each arch. It is repaired and is one of the great places of religious worship of the Brahmins but had nothing remarkable in it.
Charly’s journal of August 16th noted that on their road to Boosepoor the party passed through ‘a very tygerish looking jungle all the way. At a dry river which separated the Rajah’s dominions from ours, a Lascar belonging to Captain Grant, was carried off by a tyger, at twelve o’clock at night; the man was lagging a little behind, and was going with our tents, for the next day’s halt. Accidents continually happened in this nullah. Captain Brown heard a tyger growl. The village people told us, that a few days ago a man was carried off by a tyger, from amongst thirty people, and they found his body almost entirely eaten up. We passed many piles of stones where a man had been killed, and each person who passes in safety, adds one to the heap.’
Left Nunjengood very early. Before we had gone a mile we overtook the baggage bandy of the bodyguard in a very deep slough, which alarmed me for my little horse and myself. I got into one of the doolies and was carried over the bad places. Afterwards the road was extremely good as far as I drove. The country is fine and we passed a very large tank in a fine open place. I had been informed this stage was seventeen miles but it is certainly much above twenty. I was five hours in performing it and the baggage was not all arrived till near 3 o’clock. I saw today several of the gloriosa superba (Creeper Flame Lily) growing by the roadside and the red blooming aloe.
We came through a thick jungle to Boosepoor which separates Mysore from the Coimbatoor country. There is a tope and near it supposed to be a tygress and two young ones. As Captain Brown rode on rather before the palanquins he heard a noise like that of an elephant twice, but he did not see anything. Yet he is satisfied it was the tygress. When the doolies passed the maids, the bearers saw a very large royal tyger pass. The consternation was as you may suppose beyond all things.
I was certainly hot today. The country is pretty and the distant ghauts put me in mind of Wales and Scotland.
August 17th Came to Tumallah, about 12 miles. The road was too rough for the bandy and it was like what we passed yesterday: jungle with large trees very flourishing after the first five miles. Till that distance they are poor and withered for want of rain. After breakfast I took a pleasant walk in this wild place. I hear it will be much more wild tomorrow. Captain Macleod, the collector of the Coimbatoor country came to meet us here. He gives a good account of the road from Dannikencotah to Coimbatoor, but we shall be longer than expected on the journey.
My dear Lord Clive – I wrote in a great hurry two days ago and had not time to say all I intended. We parted with Bucherow* yesterday at Boosepoor. We will take notice of all the teak and other trees and all that you desire about their removal by water which, Captain Brown, from what he recollects, there is a river in the neighbourhood which we will enquire and let you know all that is to be known. I am glad you like the redwood tree. I will endeavour to get more or anything I can meet with in that way.
Yesterday we came through in thick jungle and had reason to be alarmed from tygers. The truth is that there is a tygress and two young ones near the road that attack people. Bucherow has promised to have these killed and to have their skins sent to me – and my children. This day we have passed a great deal of jungle and we hear the road is still much more wild which we are to go tomorrow. We have a journey of fourteen miles. We have heard of one of the wives of the elephant drivers being carried away at the same place on their march.
Captain Macleod is just arrived. He speaks Scotch tolerably broad but gives a good account of the road beyond Danikencotah to Coimbatoor.
Today the bandys were of little use. This place gives more the idea of approaching a pass than I had at Padinaig Durgan. There is a great chain of mountains on each side and very wild too. We are all well, though it is hot in the middle of the day. The evenings are very pleasant. You will receive bya bye a great many sandalwood trees a present to me from Purneah and a bed made for Tipu Sultan of the same. [The letter ends abruptly.]
Since the road had become steep and rough, on August 17th Henrietta, Anna, Harry and Charly had to be conveyed in palanquins during their steep ascent of the Guzelhutty Pass. En route Charly observed a memorial of ‘some bells hanging upon a frame of wood, which had been put up by persons who had escaped the tigers’. On August 18th on their descent to the bottom of the pass, some seven miles in length, they walked the greatest part of the way. Charly described it as ‘very wild and difficult’. They then proceeded to Boodicoop and found their tents pitched near the River Mya. The thermometer was 94 degrees.
Set out at daybreak and was an hour and a half descending the pass. In some places it very rugged and steep and the country certainly wild. A small river … runs at the bottom of the pass through a valley to the right between a chain of mountains to the right towards Calicut. These are inhabited and cultivated with barley and different sorts of dry grain. The road is bad from the foot of the pass to Guzelhutty the true name of this little village and the heat was intense. The first view into the Coimbatoor country is very fine. I am afraid we shall be a little disappointed in the beauty and cultivation of the country. It is I hear thinly inhabited, of course, but cultivated. Major Macleod told me he had had some dust brought to him said to be gold and that he believes there were mines at some distance to the right. He had written to government upon the subject. He said, too, that there is some marble near where he usually resides of which he has promised to send me specimens, as well as of the common stone. I met with a great deal of iron and limestone and some few pieces of touchstone. The lime has become hardened and in many places it has affixed itself to pebbles and become complete and hard, but very coarse.
In the evening I walked by the riverside. It is very rapid and deep in some places. In others it is forded with ease. A little distance from the camp was a place that pleased me much as it was much resembling a spot at Oakly Park. Above the river is very rapid and passes over a little fall and over stones and each side is covered to the waters edge with trees, one that I had never before seen and of a large size. The heat was very great and the thermometer at 94. In the evening there was a storm at a distance with thunder etc., and a great deal of wind. I saw several fires upon the sides of the hills occasioned as they say by the friction of the trees in the dry season. The soil is composed of iron lime and a great deal of saltpeter of which there is a considerable work at Saltemungalum.
August 19th Set out from Boodicoop at daybreak and passed the Mya River in a basket boat which I had never done before. It is quite sound and composed of bamboos like a wicker basket. The outside is covered with leather. They are perfectly safe, but not very pleasant. Yet I prefer them to the little canoe. The road was very rough and disagreeable for the little carriage.
We came to Nellakota and crossed a broader river but not so rapid as what we passed in the morning and in the same sort of conveyance. By a mistake of the Soubadar instead of encamping here he had gone on to Shremoogur ten miles farther. The road was rough. I quitted the carriage after crossing the river and came on in the palanquin. It was eighteen miles, a long stage for the followers after the rough journey yesterday. We were encamped on the bank of the Bhavanee. The temp at 1 o’clock at 93. Suddenly a violent storm came on at 2 o’clock and as we were upon a hard road, and they had not made trenches round the tents, in ten minutes we were under water. The mat floated. There was much thunder and lightning. In an hour it was quite dry again. In the evening we walked but there was not anything worth observation.
Here we are once more expiring with heat below the ghauts. We descended yesterday. It is really a pass and as wild as anything in Scotland or Wales. In some places we were obliged to walk and in the whole were about an hour and a half coming down. The country is dreary and wild and we were encamped yesterday by the River Mya, very rapid in some places. We are as hot as possible. I am quite persuaded it is better to be Queen of Mysore, though her palace is not yet very magnificent, than anything in the Carnartic. There were twelve degrees difference between yesterday morning and this at daybreak. We are to be cooler at Coimbatoor. Major Macleod is I think a sensible man speaking broad Scotch with a good deal of William Byres’s accent and not very unlike him. We are four out of seven white females he has seen in twelve years. At Coimbatoor, Mr Hurdis meets us. He has sent a variety of routes, which I shall leave undecided, till I see him. He proposes Madura but I think it is much too far and I even doubt about Dindigal. I understand it is very barren and not good roads from thence to Trichinopoly. The country is, I believe, every where less inhabited than in former times. At present the country is so wild that one cannot expect much cultivation.
This country is covered with ironstone, lime and saltpeter. We are all well as we can be, panting for cool air and the high trees in the Annamallee woods. Having escaped tygers, we are not afraid of wild elephants. My next epistle will be from Coimbatoor where we are to be on Thursday. Major Macleod had collected a variety of animals and plants for me. Amongst the rest, three beautiful owls and some fine barley, which made me think of England. It came from a high hill on one side of the pass.
Adieu. Many loves from the girls.
Ever, my dear Lord, you very affectionate
H. A. C.
After all possible enquiries, there is no marble at Seringapatam. All the best was brought from Poonah and Hyderabad where it is likely to be met with again. Colonel Pater has some very good marble they say, if it is to be had. I shall send the dimension of the elephants when I get them. You may have four.
Left Shremoogur very early. The road was better than it was yesterday except some passes or ravines rough and troublesome. The air was much cooler and the thermometer did not rise above 90. Some miles from Coorloor some troopers of Colonel Macalister’s Regiment met us and attended me to the encampment. In the evening I walked out and found some stone, which Major Macleod informs me, sufficiently hard to cut glass as a diamond. He is to send me some large specimens of it. I found a good deal of crystal and much quartz and tali in a harder sort of stone. I showed him the coins I had received from Mrs Gordon. He says several are extremely curious, particularly one in a concave shape which is worshipped by the Brahmins and of great antiquity. The rest are of a modern work and some misnamed which he undertook to have rectified at Coimbatoor. The country is not yet cultivated for want of rain in September and October is the time when it is in its greatest beauty.
August 21st Left Coorloor early as usual and arrived at Coimbatoor, ten miles. The road was perfectly good except in passing some deep and rugged ravines. It is the best soil for cotton with which it is planted at the proper season. Near the town Colonel Macalister met me and I went to the palace. It was built by a Hindu and is much in the same manner as the Rajah’s palace at Mysore. It is two stories high. There is a sort of hall of audience surrounded on three sides by pillars on the fourth side it is raised three steps and with a double row of columns. There were other rooms appropriated for me, and a large hall with a small veranda in front. The other side consists of what was the zenana and the private apartments now converted. Major Macalister’s district produces paper, clear to government of which he is allowed to make one and a half percent. He is a very sensitive well-informed man and was extremely attentive to me.
William Hurdis, the collector, came after breakfast. I consulted him what was the best road for me to take. He had never been at Tellicherry† and believed there was little worth seeing and that the road from thence to Annamalleecottah was impassable for carriages of any sort, being entirely paddy fields and that there were three roads, none of which he could recommend. The first was likewise unsafe from the depredations of the Sayres‡ who come down in considerable number and that the road is never travelled by merchants. The second is only passable by having guards and armed persons placed at certain distances and as in any case I must encamp from the length of the journey it was unsafe from the damps and fogs to risk sleeping in the jungle. From Pollachee he said the road was good and safe and that that being a high situation is perfectly healthy and good. I therefore gave up all thought of Tellicherry and shall content myself with being established a day or two at Pollachee and going to pass some hours in the woods where it is safe.
William Hurdis did not advise my going to Dinigal from Pylney, a place well worth seeing. It is necessary to go around by Darapooram, an increase of twenty-four miles to the distance. But as the polygar of the former place is now in complete enmity to government he did not think it right that I should in any case go through his country. He had been in correspondence with Dhoondiah and had engaged to bring all the other polygars to assist him. About two months ago one hundred men set out to meet him, but intelligence being sent to Major Macleod and Colonel Macalister they were followed and overtaken at a choultry in a small pass above the ghauts while sleeping. They had gone up an unfrequented road. Twenty-five were taken and as many killed. Twenty-three escaped and the rest were seized by the farmers and brought as prisoners. I do not think it worth visiting any dungeon. William Hurdis says there is little to see at Dinigal and I believe there is more to be met with worth attention by Darapooram and Caroor. William Hurdis’s district, he told me, contains 1,200 square miles.
In the evening I went a little way near the fort. It is destroyed as all these are belonging once to Tipu and afterwards taken by the English and restored to him.
My dear Lord Clive – I have only a little minute to write because the post is going out. We are just arrived well and comfortably. The great heat decreased and of course we are revived by it. Col Macalister met me on the road and set troopers in all form. We are very well lodged in the palace with airy rooms to live in. Here I mean to halt one or two days as I see good for my company, particularly Charlotte who regains with a little sure rest now and then. Harry is very stout and strong. They are in high spirits. Major Macleod leaves us tomorrow. I like him much. Mr Hurdis is just arrived and we are to settle our farther route bya bye.
Colonel Macalister says that when his regiment heard of our coming they came in a body to him (the black officers I mean) and desired, he said, to express to me and desired me to communicate to you the thanks and gratitude they feel for the increase of pay from you. They are to come to me in form to be presented tomorrow morning. Major Macleod told me that two or three black officers from Errode came with him a few days before he met us and asked him by what means the increase had been made and by whose order. He said it was from the Government order. The Soubadar immediately answered with the greatest feeling in Moors, ‘May Almighty God bless him’. It is very pleasant to hear these things.
I hear we have only one difficult pass to Poligaunteherry and a few tygers to meet with besides wild elephants, but I do not feel afraid of them. The road and country are much improved since we left the ghauts. It is now in its worst state being without rain. There is nothing soon they expect, and in October they say this country is like paradise. It is very flat except ridges of hills at a distance in a chain from the pass. Adieu. The girls send many loves to you. You are to receive letters soon, but constant travelling is an enemy to writing and we have had some long journeys.
Ever, my dear Lord, yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
We have been here two years today. In two more I hope we shall all be gambling at Walcot –
I was to have seen the regiment Col Macalister’s unit (the 4th Regiment of Cavalry) but unfortunately we slept so well that it was too late when I was up for it.
After breakfast the black officers came to salaam in form and desire me to say to Lord Clive that there had been many governors but none had thought of the real comfort and happiness of the people but himself, that now the army could live at ease and be certain of a provision if any accident befell them in service that they desired me to assure Lord Clive to their gratitude and thanks and that it was not merely the sentiments of that regiment but of the whole army. They then all salaamed again and went away.
Major Macleod had assembled a great many shrofs to come and give the history of the coins given me by Mrs Gordon. The most ancient one of the God Ram struck by an expedition to Ceylon, which I shall add in another paper as it is too long for this book and many of them were named and the places where coined but a few were unknown to them. The coin represents Ram, his wife, his brothers and two generals who were of great service to him in his wars as well as Hanuman, the Monkey god. There are seven figures: the figure of the latter is on the reverse.
In the evening I went into the barracks, which are clean and airy, and the arms in great order to the lines. The horses do not appear to me near so good as those of the body guard. Afterwards to Colonel Macalister’s new house. It is a very airy place. Just above his tope a violent shower came on and obliged us to go home.
August 23rd This morning the 5th Regiment was drawn up on foot and marched by in form. They are all young and good-looking men and, considering that they have only been raised four months, in good order.
A Brahmin desired to show some tricks and incongruities. He was an old man I should think of sixty years of age. First he placed the bamboo of a black man’s palanquin and raised it by degrees like it rested entirely on his chin. He walked in this astonishing manner. He afterwards tried the same with a straight bamboo, thirty-seven feet long and placed it upon a spike he held in his mouth. The wind had so much effect upon the top of the bamboo, which was as high as the roof of the house, that it over powered him. He did several other strange things: rubbing his arm with oil and scraping it off with a red hot bar.
Mr Hurdis, speaking of the natives this morning, told me that those upon the hills, so far from being wild and savage as we imagine, are really the best of people in regard to payment of their rent. He was saying that he always gives them a written paper promising not to extort more than is just from them and requiring payment should be made on or before a particular day. He never receives any agreement from them and yet he never knew them a day beyond the time and almost always the money arrived before the day mentioned. He said the natives are tormented by the Nawab’s havildars. But he has never sent to them requiring money or pearls (which they had taken from merchants travelling from Manar) that they did not immediately restore them and even cash that had been stolen seven years ago is returned. He said if the Madura district belonged to us instead of the Nawab, all would be well.
After much consultation with Mr Hurdis it is settled not to go to Paligautherry. There is little to be seen of any consequence other than jungle. The roads from thence to Annamalleecottah are there; one never travelled since Colonel Fullarton and all paddy ground. The second in the same way with the addition of Nayres who come down in troops and rob. The third is guarded for the preservation of travellers, but bad. Each road the damps are so great that Mr Hurdis says his people that have been obliged to stay have always returned ill. This being the case we go to Pollachee twenty-seven miles from hence and make that headquarters.
From thence we shall go to Annamalecottah for the day and afterwards begin expeditions to any parts of the jungle. I hope to be able to collect both timber and seeds for you of the best black and red wood. He says that he is certain there is a variety of new and fine trees and plants in the jungle, but that he does not know anything. On that matter Brahmins assured Major Macleod yesterday.
Adieu, my dear Lord,
ever yours very affec
H. A. C.
On August 24th the travellers continued twelve miles to Canatacadavoo. There they found a pagoda, dedicated to Soobramanee (Soubrahmanya, a twelve-armed six-headed god of war, born in order to rid the world of the demon Taraka). The jungle was very thick and the thermometer was eighty degrees. Colonel Macalister gave them a cavalry escort for a few days as he felt rather suspicious of the intentions of some polygars, who might be tempted to make a descent and seize the travellers as hostages.
Left Coimbatoor. About three miles from that place I crossed the Morel, a small river which separates the districts to Major Macleod and Mr Hurdis. The country improves considerably. There are mostly enclosures round each field and an appearance of verdure I have not seen before. The road is tolerably good and the journey was very pleasant. It is twelve miles to Canatacadavoo, a word meaning the skirts of the woods. It is at the beginning of the jungle and there are many tygers, bears and wild elephants.
The village was destroyed by Tipu and Mr Hurdis despairs of its reviving from the neighbourhood of these beasts. It was market day. The people came ten or twelve miles from the different villages to buy and sell their goods. There is a pagoda upon a fine rock and some small choultries. After dinner, though it rained a little, I went to see it. It is belonging to Soubramanee who was there with a spear in his hand and a wife on each side. It was prettily lighted up … The pagoda is of the same gold as that at Pylney. We had several new creepers brought, mostly unknown. The havildar is to get some of the seeds for me.
August 25th Came through a beautiful country to Pollachee. It very much resembles England. The fields are enclosed with hedges and crop in its early state is much like green wheat or barley. They fold the sheep and cattle with hurdles composed of straight boughs fitted together and I saw some strange inventions for the shepherd: to sleep in was a frame raised about a foot from the ground and covered with bamboos close together; for the sleeping place and over it a close arch of boughs, apparently well fixed together and able to resist the weather.
The village is pleasantly situated. We are encamped in a cocoanut tope. In the morning the neighbouring polygars came to be presented to me. The first had the most horrible countenance I ever saw, though they were not any of them in actual friendship with Dhoondiah, they had all received from him and would probably have joined him. He wore his sword on the right side and had a dagger besides. The others were not so well dressed. They were four: two of not the best description; the others without swords or arms and better people.
August 26th Went to Annamalecottah. The road is extremely beautiful and enclosed like England. The country all round gave the neatest prospect I have seen for a long time. The soil reddish and they plow deeper furrows that what I have hereto observed. At seven miles from Pollachee I crossed the river, which takes its rise from the mountains opposite. There are two cascades at a great distance but which form a part of the river. We crossed in basket boats. The river had risen considerably and I am afraid will prevent us from seeing the teak trees I so much wish to see. The rest of the way we went in palanquins and soon came to the jungle, which is perfectly delightful. The trees were bright green and the rain last night had made it perfectly cool and the continual moisture gives a verdure unknown in other places. The largest trees were either tamarind or banyan trees … but most of these I have seen about the ghauts.
Annamalecottah is a small fort in ruins. After breakfast I went through a continuation of jungle to the rock of Tecknelodroogham. It is extremely difficult to ascend, the greatest part being of solid rock but not perfectly smooth. From the top, the view was really delightful. The thick wood reaches to the foot of the mountains and in two places there were small cascades near their top which form a part of the river crossed this morning. On the other side the country is perfectly cultivated with hedgerows and everything like Europe. Some paddy fields erupted which were green. The extent of view is very great. Paligautherry was to be seen beyond the jungle, but it is evident the place would not do to be inhabited by us.
In returning I saw a tree with a new flower which Captain Brown brought me and which is said to be a parasitical plant. The flower is like a honeysuckle but tipped with green. It generally, if not always, is found on the tamarind trees. There are several other plants entirely new, which I brought home and Mr Hurdis has obtained their names and history with seeds, which are to be sent to me when we descend to the bottom of the hill.
I omitted to mention that there were three men, perfectly savage in their appearance. The principal person had a cloth wrapt round his waist and a gold or brass necklace. His hair was long and his features much like the caffers at the Cape. Another old man came to salaam that was misery and wildness itself. There were two or three boys wrapt in lunghis, all looking equally savage. Mr Hurdis told me that they live entirely upon seeds and fruits with a buffalo, which they steal and kill now and then. They are dreaded thieves and generally rob and murder. Twenty-three of them a few months ago murdered six women and children. They waylay travellers of which I believe there are now very few and plunder them. Between this place and the camp I saw some more of these natives and their wives and children. The women had only a cloth round their waist like the men, but no other garment.
The river had risen considerably since we set out. There was a view near the fort of the river with trees to its edge that put me in mind of Oakly Park and indeed the view is generally like what I have seen there from the top.
August 27th I walked out in the morning. It was to be a quiet halting day, which we much wanted. It was hot and there was little to see about the place.
I have been longer than usual without writing to you because I wished to tell you something of the teak trees which I was in hopes to have seen yesterday. We were the whole day at and near Annamalecottah but were unable to go towards the part among those trees. There is a severed arm of a rapid river we crossed yesterday and several ravines now filled with water which are such as William Hurdis says should unlikely prevent our getting on. I am very sorry for it. Yesterday we were in a jungle usually inhabited by wild elephants. Part of the road was made by Col Fullarton and though there were no large trees but the tamarind and Banyan yet they were very large and the journey for two or three miles was delightful with several small trees and shrubs that I have never seen. I have got boughs of them and the havildar is to get the seed of each of them for me.
In regard to the conveyance of timber the only way William Hurdis says is from the spot by country conveyances to carry them to Darapooram and Amoor from thence they may be floated to the mouth of the Cauvery. He has had some carried to Darapooram for his own use, but he says that though the rivers are rapid in this country yet their rise and fall is so sudden that it would be impossible to send any rafts or timber down them. They are deep in some places and very rocky in others but in general shallow and rise and fall in the course of eight or ten hours which would not allow time enough for timber to get down. The many rocks would risk the timber ever arriving. The only time in which the Cauvery is sufficiently high is in the month of June and the timber should be ready at Caroor by that time. He will get the sizes of the trees as accurately as he can. He has no doubt, indeed knows, that there are a great variety of timber in these woods but their exact sort he does not yet know.
From Annamalecottah we went to a small rock in appearance, Sanikulrogdroog, which has been fortified, but is not a very frequented place. The river is like glass and the other side a well-cultivated valley. We passed through the day before with hedges and such an appearance of plenty as was really delightful. The rock was so rough and steep that I persuaded the girls not to go to the top and I believe we had all as much as we could do to ascend and descend but we were not very much fatigued in the evening.
I cannot say the pleasure I have had in seeing this country. It is fresh and luxuriant. The trees are beautiful. We heard many peacocks in the wood but saw neither elephants nor any wild beasts except the real inhabitants who are as near savages and some of Captain Cook’s§ drawings than anything I ever saw. I never saw such a set of people in my life.
The day before yesterday the polygars in the neighbourhood came to make their salaam to me. One of them was the most horrible looking old monster and William Hurdis says is not much better than he looks. There were five altogether: two of the young polygars whose uncles came as their representatives came here today. They are fine looking boys. Tomorrow we go to Pylney, where we halt a day, and from thence to Darapooram. I hope to have, while we are hereabouts, some specimens of the cardamom, pepper and cinnamon trees growing on the hills. I should like to see the wood of the first. We are all well and much pleased with this part of the journey. The Coimbatoor disappointed me till we quitted the capital and it will again grow dismal in a day or two. It is not hot. We have had a good deal of rain, which occasioned the river to swell considerably between our passing and returning yesterday.
Adieu. The girls are well and very busy
writing to England, which I ought to be, too.
Ever, my dear Lord, yours affectionately
H. A. C.
I have sent, at least I believe it will go, some cuttings of a very curious sort of mistletoe with a beautiful flower. Pray have it grafted directly upon a tamarind tree. It will not grow in the ground and is really well worth preserving. I shall endeavour to get more but I doubt my success. Pray let it be done the moment you receive it.
Left Pollachee and its trees and cool breezes and came to Oudmalcottah, a dreary sandy place without a tree. The road was tedious and ugly. The Queen of Delhi, a polygaress of the neighbourhood came with others. She is about sixty years of age. Mr Hurdis told me a very active, positive old woman who keeps her district in great subjection, but does not exactly pay her rent. She is supposed to be rather well disposed to the polygar of Verapache who was raising and did send the detachment to join Dhoondiah, which was discovered by Major Macleod. Several other polygars came also. They are all of low caste and wear earrings in the upper part of one ear, a proof of their having been menial servants at least their forefathers to the Kings of Madura. The Queen is of the lowest caste of the Connanies.
On August 28th some polygars and the Queen of Delhi (a village so called) strewed the travellers’ feet with little bits of gold and silver paper as a token of respect. Charly’s journal relates an account of a polygar having given her a beautiful young gazelle that was quite tame. It became attached to her, travelling in her palanquin and sleeping by her bedside. Returning from an early morning outing after being back in Madras, Charly found the gazelle lying dead in front of the house. Unattended it had lept from a verandah at the top of the house to the grass below. Charly grieved the loss of the gazelle.
The Verapachy polygar having behaved ill and being the person who raised soldiers for Dhoondiah and all correspondence having ceased between him and Mr Hurdis, it was not thought prudent for me to pass through his country to Dindigal. From some reports when we were at Pylney we heard that he had increased his number of troops and peons and was cleaning his roads; whether to receive me was a doubt. The nights I was at Pylney it was for several reasons thought right to double the guard round the tents and to have everything ready in case he should come. However, I heard nothing more of him.
We left all our pretty country and our trees behind us yesterday and have had two dreary marches with much dust and wind. No more rain but a good deal of heat. We have calculated the probable progress of our journey which at the shortest and without more than the necessary halting days. By all accounts we shall be at Madras not before the 11th October. It is a long while to fix, but it is really as soon as it can be done. We are all well.
Tomorrow we halt or rather the day after at Pylney and then go directly to Darapooram. It is sad to see the difference of the country and the weather in these few miles and we are still near hills. I hear we are not to be much more amused with prospects as we approach the Cauvery. William Hurdis will try to float some timber down to see what can be done about your teak trees and let you know the event. I have several specimens of trees whose appearance are quite unknown to me and I am to have the seeds.
The girls will I am afraid lose their bloom before you see them and be quite brown. I shall be black, much more so than any of the Herberts at Powis Castle.
Adieu.
Many loves to you.
Ever, my dear Lord, yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
Came to Pylney. It is a pretty place and cultivated with a considerable river passing near it. There are two hills near. On one of which there is a famous pagoda dedicated to Soobramanee concerning which there are many stories told and too long for me to insert here. I passed the day in a bungalow built by Colonel Oliver. It was very hot and the glare very disagreeable.
In the evening I went through the village to see a pagoda dedicated to Soobramanee It was very large; the ornaments better carved than these places usually are. There was a long passage or hall supported by pillars and covered with stone across which were hung garlands of flowers and a variety of lamps on each side leading to the holy place where the god was placed. Flowers were offered to him by being put on the altar at his feet and lights (I suppose fifteen in a pyramidal form) were waved before him. Then a lesser light, one in a glass dish, after which a bell was rung and some prayers recited and then flowers were brought and put round my neck. It is remarkably pretty altogether and I was much pleased with it. I believe it was the god Soobramanee as there are many offerings of slippers on the roof of the entrance.
This morning to my great joy and surprise I received the enclosed letters, which I send to you directly. I wish my brother had not occasion for Harrogate though I have no doubt it will do him good. General St John with his wife are good people. She is one of Lord Craven’s sisters and a very good little woman. I shall be glad to see him and hear how my dear boys look, shall not you? Captain Brown has a long account of your old regiment, which he seems charmed with. I have not had time to hear it yet. We are in a more Christian-like place than for these two days, but it is hot and sitting in a bungalow built by Colonel Oliver. All well and merry.
You will be sorry to hear by your uncle’s letter of the death of poor old Sophie. I hope she is the only friend I shall lose by my absence and am very sorry for it.
We halt tomorrow. The roads are heavy for the animals and we have five days march afterwards before the next halting day. God bless you. I am glad to find that Edward grows and Robert improves. I hope we shall see those good souls. Have you ever written to them? Some very fine mountain limes are just brought. I have desired some trees for you. They are larger than any lemons I have seen except in Italy.
Adieu. Many loves to you.
Ever my dear lord, yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
The letter from Edward to you came with the others enclosed by General St John.
I went to the top of the hill to the most distant pagoda. The ascent is tolerable easy having steps cut in the rock. There are some little choultries on the way and some lesser pagodas. One pagoda is to the giant who watches Soobramanee where there are slippers brought as offerings. The pagoda itself is not near so large as that I had seen last night. They brought me flowers and a filthy mixture composed of oil and jasmine with which the people rub their throats.
There is at the door of the most holy place a guard or champion in a sort of armour and with horsehair in a bunch on his head. Behind his girdle is a large piece of brass with two heads of the same hanging down before him, a sword drawn and a cloth thrown round him. If the holy place should ever be in danger of being taken, it is to be put in a bag and thrown down from it. On the way down I saw several fakeers with their hair matted and of a great length twisted round on the top of their heads and thought it was some ornament. They were dirty figures. There was an old man who had elephantiasis, the first I ever saw. It is a most shocking disorder.
In the evening I went round the tank. It is considerably raised and deepened and is now fourteen feet in the deepest part and being a good deal above the land on the other side. It is convenient for watering it and generally produces three crops. I went afterwards to a pagoda, but it was not so handsome as that on the preceding night. The road to that on the hill was illuminated and the pagoda itself, which had a very pretty effect, the lamps being placed on each side of the way or rather there are holes made in the rock in which the oil is put.
My dear Lady Douglas – I have had at last the pleasure of receiving two packets of letters from England and that doubly by having letters from every soul I have particularly wished to hear. You are a delightful person to write to me wherever there is an opportunity and I have letters from all Dalkeith house, which makes me quite happy. I assure you that sort of comfortable correspondence is, I really think, the great luxury in the East. I like to know how every body is going on and how the world is peopled by your nephews and nieces … To the greatest degree I can perfectly enter into all your lives. I think very often of you and all your offspring. It is now two years since I landed upon this sandy shore. In two more I trust I shall be in a better place but I do not yet know any time when I am likely to be so happy. I wrote to you in April from Ryacottah where I had travelled, not with seven leagued boots but with elephants and camels like an Eastern Damsel with all possible dignity.
From thence I proceeded to Bangalore, which is the only place upon this Eastern Earth worthy to be called a country. The air is so wholesome and delightful that I felt it cold and shut the doors. It was not like a cold fog, which prevails in the Carnatic, but like an autumn day in England. When I lived in Tipu’s palace near three months and rejoiced that I was not one of his wives who had only two rooms, one within the other with a very small window in one and without any in the other. They sat and ate betel in miserable confinement with the happy prospect of being sent for by him and perhaps to have their necks dislocated if such was his pleasure. These fair ladies were never allowed to speak to him unless he asked them a question or began the conversation. They were reminded when they went into his apartment by the old women who attended them that they must be silent. Some they say had ventured to speak and that without hesitation he has had them instantly destroyed. Think of the blessing of being the wife to that great Potentate on such terms. He was not magnificent even in regard to their dress. He gave them very small jewels of little value and if not great occasions they were not to be dressed. The jewels were always returned again to him. He had ordered the inhabitants to quit Bangalore after it was taken by Lord Cornwallis and that the fort should be destroyed which were nearly done. I had an excellent garden with alleys of cypress trees and the only sweet roses in India.
From thence I proceeded to Seringapatam and saw all the marks of horror of the siege and storm, which has given me a pretty idea of fortification, a new accomplishment. I am sure it must be my own fault if this is not the case as it was most learnedly explained to me. I saw Haidar’s and Tipu’s widows. Some were handsome but still nothing like the beauties in the Arabian Nights nor no pearls like pigeon’s eggs. Some of them thought it necessary to cry, but I did not see many real tears except in the true wife who was neither young nor handsome, but she really seemed to feel concern. Yet in fact, except the pleasure of seeing him and the chance of being hung and destroyed, their situation is exactly as it was in his lifetime. They have more certain provision and all their little wishes gratified. It is really more like a convent than anything I ever saw. The real wife is the head and chief. They are all married but those only are called the real wives on whose marriage there was great rejoicing and ceremonies, which cost one or two hundred thousand pagodas. Therefore it is not convenient to have many of these ladies. His daughters are fine little girls and very like the pictures of Tipu.
After all these affairs I went to Mysore. The little Rajah is six years old and a nice little boy with a most sensible interesting countenance. His grandmother is as short and as fat as any human creature can be that is to move upon the face of the earth. She looks very well for her age – sixty years – and has the appearance of much sense. These people are really interesting and it is wonderful that after being confined between thirty and forty years she should be restored and that, through Tipu, who wished to annihilate the throne and name of Mysore, this little boy should live and that he should now sit upon the ivory throne on which his ancestors and predecessors sat 700 years ago. It is impossible not to moralise upon the decrees of providence on such an occasion and on the uncertainty of all human affairs. I shall always think of the two days I passed at Mysore with interest and shall care more about the affairs of India than I ever did from having beheld these two persons.
Since that I have descended the Guzelhutty Pass which is something like a Scotch or Welsh mountain, a very great compliment to it I assure you. One of the people attending my baggage was carried off by a tyger the evening before I arrived. Some of my belongings heard it growl and Charlotte is quite persuaded she saw its tail. I assure you the consternation was extreme. Everybody had a horrible tale to tell. But the poor man was really devoured and two other bodies were found half eaten just by the side of the road. This was really travelling in the East.
I have been at Coimbatoor and in unfrequented woods in search of teak and other strange trees. Many I have discovered that are quite new descriptions. I shall have some seeds. When I return to Madras I think I shall be able to send you some pretty creepers for the little hot house. When I meet with a beauty, the Collector or somebody promises to get the seeds. I have really found one or two plants that are very sweet and not known. I sincerely hope that your journeys may all do as much good to your family as mine has done to my girls. They grow tall and not too thin. I think of England very often and with what pleasure I shall see it again.
Thanks to you for the Darbish muslin from Mrs Fleming at Glasgow. I have not yet seen it, but I hear it is at the capital where I cannot arrive before the 18th or 20th October as I go to Trichinopoly and Tranquebar. I believe I am thought a strange restless animal. A black woman never moves and the white ones in this country are not much more active. Besides I descend from my dignity and walk upon my own feet at every place where I take up my abode.
This was written in a breath and having reposed and read your last letters once more I shall begin again and having finished the East talk a little more of the North and some of its good productions for instance the person you certainly do not love a little who I must call as you do ‘Car’. I am charmed to hear she delights in drawing and composing. It is what my perfect old Mrs Byres always said the most lasting and the most gratifying of the arts that if you sung or played like Orpheus it soon passed, but that a drawing was a lasting amusement to yourself and your friends. It is what I should have like to have done if I had ever been able and I am sorry that at present I see very little disposition in either of my girls to draw at all either man or beast – It was once my great hobby horse. Here I have not power to do such things …
How I should like to be put down this minute and hear the readings and see the drawing in your sitting room and all the comforts thereunto belonging, as the greatest part of my life is passed in thinking how to keep my two blessed girls in health and to do as much as I can for their improvement. I feel how much pleasure you must have in seeing yours of more different ages prosper before you. I should like to see them again. The little plaything cannot know me but the more ancient I think will remember me whenever I am so happy as to return to my own country. The account of yourself and proceedings delights me. There is nothing more pleasant to me than to follow any person for whom I am interested. I have seen you in my mind’s eye through your journey and only wish I could do it with my real eye as well as my mental. The story you tell me of your neighbour’s infatuation diverts me much. There seems a great deal of that sort of infatuation in London and nothing but ladies leaving their spouses. Don’t you think the world is not so good as they were in the days of your and of our youth and that instead of mending they grow worse? Without any vanity I do really believe that your daughters and mine are and will be the most innocent that have been or will be in the world to which I do as really believe that many people do not attend sufficiently to that essential part of education that accomplishments have been usually more attended to than more spiritual things.
Pray remember that every relation of your movements and of your doings is delightful to me that I see you all merry at Bothwell and Dalkeith … and that there is nothing I wish for much more than to remain in all your remembrances. May all good attend you.
Most sincere wishes.
Yours
H. A. Clive
Pylney, where I have been to see a famous pagoda and caught cold from garlands of wettish flowers that the priests put round my neck after they had been offered to God Soobramanee. The stories of the pagodas are really very entertaining.
Came to Darapooram. It is in a very sandy dusty situation and very hot. Mr Hurdis is building a house, which will be very uncomfortable in a short time. He showed me some coins late found about thirty miles from hence, most undoubtedly Roman and gave me several of them. In the evening I walked to his new Brahmin’s village and saw some timber from the Annamallee Woods, forty feet long and two feet square brought by bullocks at the expense of sixty rupees each.
You will receive in about eight or ten days some lime and lemon trees which as the fruit was uncommonly fine I desired William Hurdis to send you and by the tappal. You will receive the fruit itself as a specimen. I have just seen some boughs of the cinnamon trees from the hills: wild. The leaves are very large and strong and the cinnamon taken off by the country people without knowing how or when it ought to be done. It is not so strong as the best from Ceylon. There were some fine pepper vines and some other boughs of which the fruit will be sent to you as it is new to me: medicinal and used in dyeing. I have some specimens – two – of a sort of redwood but not near so beautiful as that I sent you from Ryacottah. There is sandalwood, but not so fine as some you will have from Seringapatam nor near so large.
We had a long march today of seventeen miles. It is very hot but we are well. I hear you are very gay and giving balls, but you do not trouble yourself with writing. Your last letter was dated the 10th August. Did I tell you I have had a letter from Captain Malcolm before he arrived at Sheraz? I keep it till we meet. This is an ugly dreary place with little cultivation or trees and a hot wind blowing the dust – Adieu. We hear from William Thomas that the ships do not sail till October. Is it true? And is there any October fleet? Besides pray let me know because of my letters. I see Lord Wellesley has £200,000 from the Company. Is it true? Are any other governors to have anything? I think they ought.
Adieu. Ever, my dear Lord,
yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
We are just come here and the change of weather has been very great within these two days. Yesterday the thermometer was at 94. Much hotter than you are at Madras. I trust that we shall soon get into a cooler climate. I have three times passed the river by which your timber must be floated if it goes in that way. It is now only knee deep … I have not desired any trees of the other woods till I show them to you. The heat has not oppressed us much. As you may suppose my next letter will be from Caroor where we shall halt a day. William Hurdis says that some fine timber used to come down the Godavery and Kistrah to Madras. Teak particularly.
Adieu. Many loves to you.
Ever, my dear Lord. yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
It was pleasanter than it had been for some days. I took a long walk in search of stones and found many crystals with which the country abounds. They say that they increase the fertility, which may be on the same reason that stones are put round greenhouse plants to present the cooperation of the moisture in the ground. The appearance was improved though the country was not pretty but rocky and wild. There is a rapid though narrow river close by the tents, which contributed to make them comfortable.
Came to Caroor. It is a deserted place and Mr Hurdis has little hopes of its improving from going out of the great roads. I went to some rooms built over a choultry … It was extremely hot and oppressive. Several polygars came to make their salaam and two widows of that of Rangherry, about which there is a disputed suspicion. There has been much iniquity, bribery, and treachery respecting their poor people. The sons or I believe the nephews of the late polygar and real heirs were not arrived. The ladies suffered much for a long time, but Mr Hurdis refused to let the boys come as polygars in that would have been organising to their claim, which he did not then know, would be proved to the government.
In the evening I went round the fort. There was a magnificent choultry round the pagoda dedicated to the destroying power. But, it was destroyed by Major Birsema when he was with Col Fullarton and I understand very unnecessarily. It is a very great pity. It was built of granite and much better done than the figures in pagodas are usually. I slept in the tent and breakfasted the next morning in the fort.
We came to Caroor this morning and are established in a house built by Mrs Wynach when she was here. I am surprised that you do not write to me when I have written such long stories of Seringapatam. I hear you are very well and very gay but I am afraid you are too much in your garden and are planting there instead of writing to me which is uncomfortable. We hear the ships sail on the 20th. Is that true?
It is very hot and for these last three days Charlotte’s nose has bled again which it had long left off. The heat affects her almost immediately. Every day I trust it will grow cooler.
I do not know if you have received plants and cuttings without end that have been sent and they have never been acknowledged. I have some seeds of the mountain lemon, which I shall bring myself and you will have some sheep bya bye, that have wool and are like sheep and very good mutton for your farmyard and a bull of great beauty as I hear, as I have not seen him. This is a dreary country in general, but cultivated round Canoor and less hot than I expected. I long for the sea breeze –
The girls desire their love to you. I am afraid their good looks will not reach Madras. It is Harry’s birthday today and she is certainly as stout as is necessary at her age. Adieu. Pray write because it is really uncomfortable to be near a month without hearing from you.
Ever my dear Lord.
Yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
It was hot. The thermometer at 94, yet not near so oppressive as it had been the preceding day at 89 in the fort. In the evening I went through the pettah to the river and had a pleasant walk. It is an inconsiderable place. On returning this evening I was surprised by a great many women setting up a most extraordinary shrill shriek. It is the way of expressing great pleasure among that caste and it is always done at marriages and funerals. It was one of the most extraordinary civilities I ever met with.
September 7th Left Caroor and went to a sugar manufactory established by Mr Campbell. He has just built a pleasant bungalow and has begun his garden. But there is much doubt if it will answer to him. The soil there will not bear the sugar cane another year. Therefore the crop must be considerably diminished and there is not any wood within his reach, which is absolutely necessary for the sugar. I proceeded to where one of the Nawab’s people met me with the usual ceremonies of fruit and flowers. Mr Hurdis quitted us this evening after having conducted me through his country or district.
I omitted to mention some very extraordinary hills of sand, which we passed this evening. They are said to have covered one village and I believe it is true from the appearance of the cocoanut trees on the upper part of the hill, which are evidently many feet deep in the sand.
September 8th Came to Peomony. The heat was very great and the thermometer at 95. A pretty pandal had been created by the Nawab’s people. It rained in the evening, which prevented me from going out, and as the march had been unexpectedly long this morning, I was not sorry to remain quiet.