‘I feel the unpleasantness of absence very much.’
We are arrived after a long march and are once more in his highness the Nawab’s country which is better cultivated and better looking than his is usually. The day after tomorrow we shall be at Trichinopoly where I hear it is less hot than it is here. I am much disappointed in not having heard from you for near a month and I wish it much. I hear you are well. Mrs St John wrote me word you were giving balls and were very gay and I hear of a breakfast to the Nawab, which Thomas sent to Captain Brown, but it would really give me pleasure to hear from you. I have written without end to you and have told you all I have done which I should like much to know if it is right or not.
It is very uncomfortable not to hear something and with fatigue and considerable anxiety about the girls I feel the unpleasantness of absence very much. They are well now and indeed Harry is generally so; Charlotte’s nose has been quiet these two last days. Pray come in from the garden a little sooner and take a pen and write to me. I sent you my last English letters and should be glad to have them again. I have got some fine nutmegs from the hills, some cardamons and a plant of wild – not unlike – satin wood which I shall bring with me. The nutmegs are scarcely ripe but are curios to us who have never seen them growing. The leaves are very large. All these things come from beyond Dindigal and you may have any quantity of the timber if it can be transported but I did not desire to have any till you have seen it.
General Bridges gives me his house on the plain but I really think we sleep nowhere so well as in tents. Adieu. The girls desire their love to you. They are as busy as the weather will permit with their English letters.
Ever my dear Lord, yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
I am afraid I have lost a box of millinery, which ought to have been here many months ago. I never heard by what ship it was sent, but a bill has been sent to me by Wilding. I am afraid it is owing to W Strachey. It is not amongst those sent by Wilding and it is between William S and William Franks. He is a sad person to send commissions and kept the box, I know, for months in his house. I am afraid Major Allan has not delivered his commission any more than Captain Sampson. I sent some seeds to Lady Douglas, which she had not received.
Charlotte being much fatigued and weak I did not go out today at all. I was a little disappointed at the appearance of the Rock. It is not high, at least not so much so as I expected.
September 11th I stayed at home till the evening and went out for a little while till the rain came on.
September 12th I went out in the morning to the Golden Rock (near Trichinopoly) upon which a fakeer now lives. It is low and rugged without anything remarkable. In the evening I went to Mrs Dache’s garden. It is kept in high order and there are several small buildings scattered about. It is extremely cool and pleasant particularly one in which under a tent there is a bath. After my return home there fell a most violent storm of rain with the most violent lightning I ever saw.
September 13th Drove out in the morning to see Sugarloaf and French Rocks (in the plain of Trichinopoly). The road was rough and the Rocks completely barren. I saw some of the trees called the true cedars of Lebanon. They are pretty of quick growth and perfectly new to me. In the evening went to the side of the river, which is broad and very handsome on the Island of Seringham. There is a great appearance of cultivation and verdure from the paddy fields.
I forgot to say I had been in the evening to the house of the Nawab, a pretty place but quite in ruin. The garden is very large and by the side of a broad nullah. It might be made a charming place and is perfectly located. He will not allow any European to live in it. He says if any officer was there he should never get rid of him again.
We are still at Trichinopoly. I found Charlotte much in want of rest and therefore have stayed from day to day that she may recover. There are reasons to explain which make her so very delicate and weak that she is incapable of exertion. I trust one day more will enable us to proceed. I have only as yet seen the French Rocks and the different remarkable spots. The day after tomorrow I hope to go to the fort and Rock and the next day to Samiaveram and from thence on that side of the River to Tanjore, which saves our returning here and crossing the rivers again.
I shall get some seeds for you of the real Cedar of Lebanon as it is said. It is pretty but quite unlike our cedars and a China shrub which I saw in a garden of William Dake’s (Mrs Floyd’s father) last night. I have not seen a place so neat for a long time and most flourishing.
The height of the Rock (236 feet), as I have seen it, disappoints me. The heat has been very great and we feel the advantage of a house during the day. We have had rain every evening and last night a most violent storm of thunder, lightning and rain. I never saw the lightning more violent. It will cool the air and do us good. We are all well except Charlotte from the heat. Harriet, I think, I shall bring back looking very well and hope Charlotte will revive again. At present she is not what she was a month ago. We shall not be at Tanjore as soon as I expected but that cannot really be helped. General Bridges is extremely civil and gives up the house completely, which is very comfortable. Mrs Dye is here but looking very ill and very unlike what she was at Madras.
We are bringing stones and a variety of treasures from this place. I have yet no letter from you. Adieu. My Dear Lord we shall be glad to behold you again. The girls desire their love. They are pleasant animals and I believe you will think them a little grown.
Adieu.
Ever your very affectionate
H. A. C.
Went to church in the Fort. The clergyman unfortunately speaks very unpleasantly with a strong accent. The sermon was preached by Mr Ball. I liked the manner in which the boys stand and answered the responses infinitely better than those at Madras. Afterwards I went to Colonel Brown’s house, which is really the main guard. It is very cool and there is a fine view from the top of it. When I returned home, two Malabar priests came with a petition and an old man, Modeen Sahib, who was with the late Lord Clive at Samiaveram and was wounded with him. He is a venerable old figure. He has given me a short account of that day and is to go with me to that place and describe every part of it to me. In the evening we drove out as usual.
September 15th Went up the Rock at Trichinopoly, the greatest part of the way is under a covered way with stone steps which continue to a small choultry from which there is a fine view. Afterwards the way is over the rock but neither slippery nor steep. In short I was much surprised at the ease with which we ascended, as Charlotte had not been well. She was carried in a chair.
After coming down I went to the Nawab’s house where there are some pictures belonging once to Mrs Dupleen and brought from Pondicherry of the King and Queen of France and other private persons whose names were not known. There was besides Stubbs* original picture of the horse and tyger and one of a tyger fighting with a lion. It was a very shabby dirty place and not the least remains of splendour. The garden had nothing in it but a large royal tyger worth remarking.
The pettah within the Fort is much crowded and has many inhabitants. There are some without the walls where there are barracks and where most of the horses of officers etc. are. After my return, the nephew and future son in law of Tondiman came and made his salaam to me. He has the appearance of a true polygar with an immense scarlet and gold turban and a large pair of whiskers. He brought a silver cup and some pearls which General Bridges undertook to return to him, but fruit and flowers I accepted. In the evening the Nawab’s relation came to take leave of me. We had had almost every evening violent rain, but it did not cool the air.
After expecting to hear from you with great anxiety at last I have had that pleasure for such I assure you it is to me. You do not mention your own health by which I trust it is good. We are all pretty well; Charlotte reviving. We met your letter at the bottom of the Rock of Trichinopoly from which we had just descended. Charlotte was carried in a chair therefore had not fatigue and was pleased. The ascent is by no means difficult or fatiguing. We scarcely feel it …
Tomorrow we go to Samiaverum with the fine old Moorman, who was with your Father. He is to tell me the whole story and show the spots and places that are so remarkable.
I am in hopes that instead of the Nawab you will come to meet us somewhere. At present I do not see any reason to suppose we shall prolong our journey more than I told you. Much depends on Charlotte. I wish to bring her stout and well if possible. I am sorry you have been disappointed of timber for the new part of the house and have little chance of getting any from the Annamallee Woods till next year. I shall certainly say all to the Rajah you desire and get a sketch of him.
Mr Torin was here yesterday and is gone to prepare for me. We end the baggage on this side of the river and go a bad and beautiful road in the palanquins. No horses can go therefore the bodyguard will march upon their own feet much to the surprise of the havildar.
We go to Tranquebar by the river. Not to Nijapatam. If you have not received heaps of cuttings, either they have been neglected to be given to you or omitted by the tappal. Some rare plants from Pendangdroog went at least once or twice a week for sometime. Some were from Ryacottah and some from Pollachee. All of these were rare …
I should be much diverted to see the Nawab and Mr Webbe with his three wives. I hope he will allow me to see the mistresses. Webbe’s having seen only Mohamatan ladies I should like to see a Persian and Hindoo.
We have had little rain till these last few days. We are supposed to be very lucky to bring it to every place. I will finish my letters as soon as I can and send them. I have begun to your Mother, Uncle and Aunt in answer to theirs and shall to Mrs Walpole. Thank you for writing to my Brother. I think he should have been much disappointed if he had not heard and a letter from you besides is always pleasant to him. Adieu. The girls send their loves and will write when their English letters are gone. It is late and I must dispatch my letter. I shall write when I can of the road to Tanjore.
Adieu, my dear Lord.
Ever yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
Left Trichinopoly and crossed the Cauvery at daybreak in a large boat which admitted of the palanquins crossing abreast in it. It was slow on its passage but the view of the river and island of Seringham on one side and the Rock on the other was beautiful. The Coleroon is wider than the Cauvery, but more easily passed. The road was very bad chiefly through paddy fields and there were several deep nullahs to be crossed. The journey was long and we did not arrive at Samiaveram till past 9 o’clock. There was a pretty pandal erected at the choultry which is called Clive’s but Modeen Sahib who I took with me assured me it was not in that which Lord Clive slept. He showed the spot to Captain Brown where he said it had been. There was not a vestige remaining but a pandal was placed there for me. Upon examining this spot with Orme’s book it exactly answered in every respect to the distance from the lesser and greater pagoda. In the evening I went to the place and have not the least doubt it was right. Modeen Sahib described the Line to be down the road and that Lord Clive’s tent was pitched near the then choultry. He was wounded in the arm on that day and remained afterwards sometime with Lord Clive. The large pagoda is in ruins and much neglected. The people call all the choultries General Clive’s. The heat this day had been terrible. The thermometer in my tent was at 96. In the others less high and in the evening there was a most violent storm of rain, thunder and lightning.
I quite forgot to send yesterday the letter from Captain Macleod and indeed it was packed up so here it is. We are at Samiaveram. There are several choultries. I have not yet ascertained which it is exactly. I have Robert Orme and the old Moorman I mentioned to you yesterday. Therefore in the evening I shall be quite sure. We are pretty well. Charlotte delicate but bearing a long journey tolerably well and recovering her looks gradually.
General Bridges came here with us. He has been extremely civil and good indeed and insisted on coming so far on our road. Mr Harris has sent a route from Tanjore to Captain Brown today. I think if nothing particular arises we shall be at Madras by this day month.
This morning as I was getting into the palanquin your letter of the 13th arrived with my Brother’s. It is a very old letter but it is satisfactory about the boys. Lord G Barnard’s is entertaining. I have written two letters to her [Lady Anne Barnard at the Cape of Good Hope] which she cannot have received. One was by the Blue Grant last year that did not go to the Cape. Lord Hanford’s letter was to mention General St John to you at his particular request and to express a wish for Trichinopoly. She says little more except that my Brother was not well. It is dated in March. We have letters from him of a later date and I know William Keene tells her what he thinks which is not on the most favourable side.
It is provoking that you cannot get timber. I cannot imagine how you are to dispose of us at the Ameer Bagh. We are pretty well. Charlotte’s spirits are not up yet as usual … We are on the bank of the Coleroon in a pretty place and have passed through a very rich country this morning but very deep roads over paddy fields. Adieu. Many loves to you I will if I can bring many beans in my palanquin from Tanjore. The box of millinery, which Thomas Harris received, is not what I want. It is another, perhaps gone to Bengal.
Adieu.
Ever my dear Lord,
Yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
This morning General Bridges and those who had attended me to Thanjavar returned to Trichinopoly. The road was filled with water and was much through paddy ground, which added to the rain the night before made it almost a river the whole way. Much of it was by the side of the Coleroon and in one part a fine avenue of Banyan trees on each side. The country is entirely fertile and covered with paddy and topes. I have not seen any so pleasant or so fruitful. It was a long journey, but the place was very pretty where we were encamped near the large Annicut or dam, which turns the Cauvery towards the Tanjore country and gives it all its fertility. In the evening there was a most violent storm of rain, thunder and lightning which seems the usual consequence of the hot day in this moist country.
On September 18th Charly noted: ‘It rained very hard in the night, and the noise the frogs made was beyond conception. We went to see an old pagoda full of bats.’
Came through a most delightful wood to Coilady. The village is small and there is an old pagoda. It is one of the places mentioned in Orme’s History. There was a pandal created and the tank was near it. In the evening I took a walk and afterwards there was a tremendous storm, which obliged us to go in palanquins to the tank. There were many very large trees by the roadside this morning, particularly some bamboos of a very great size. One teak tree I saw, but a small one. The vegetation is extremely great and the journey which was only four miles and a half was really delightful.
September 19th Came to Trivady. The country is still more cultivated than yesterday with large trees in different parts of the field – some that reminded me of English trees. There was much rice and the road runs by the side of the river in many places. There are a great number of villages near it. In short it was a most continual chain of inhabitants (the men, chiefly Brahmin) bringing cocoanuts, limes and flowers and the women singing and joining in a chorus of screaming which was the same as at Caroor. While they scream they move their tongue which makes that yell they think musical and is used at all ceremonies (marriages and funerals) and is likewise a great mark of joy and respect. The first time I heard it, the havildar thought it was meant to affront me and rode up to the women in a great rage but it was explained to be a civility. At this place is a very pretty pandal erected by the Collector, Mr Harris, in a choultry by the side of the river.
As there is no good place for the tents this evening I shall continue my road to Tanjore where I expect to be before 7 o’clock. The village is very large and rich. It is belonging to Brahmins who pay no taxes or rent to the Rajah but the whole is as almshouses in England endowed for the maintenance of the Brahmins. There is a large pagoda lately finished with a considerable tank. The view from the choultry where we dined was delightful. The river is very broad and its banks covered with trees and cultivation. The Rajah’s relations, two old women, wives to his adopted father and real uncle, live here. They have palaces on the riverside and very large gardens. I went into one of them where there is a very large tree unknown in this country supposed to have been brought by some pilgrim. I think it is like the arbor vitae from China.
The rivers we crossed were four in number and almost equally broad and the country between the two first beautiful beyond description. It was quite dark before I arrived at the last river. The Rajah’s Minister met me there with his troops, elephants, sepoys and a variety of noises, which attended me to Mr Torin’s house. The road seemed to be lined with people and to be so almost the whole way. Mr Torin’s house is excellent, but it was hot and in the night a great deal of rain fell.
* George Stubbs (1725–1806), painter whose images of lions and tigers came to be symbolic of the British/Indian conflict.