‘… the Rajah sent his cattle to visit me … [he] desired I would take as many as I pleased as he had many of them. They are so beautiful that Mr Torin [the Collector at Tanjore] chose a large gentleman and two ladies of the first size and age and a second set of ladies about half grown. Besides the Rajah desired to send some of the small ones to the girls in his own name. They are little beauties and have just passed by on their road to Madras.’
We are delighted with the country. Charlotte is reviving. Her spirits are getting up again. The evening and morning are cool and pleasant though the middle of the day is hot. We have had violent rain and thunder and lightning every evening. Yesterday we had a long march through a most glorious country from Koilady to Trivady. It is completely cultivated with rice and there are large trees like a park in England and very much inhabited. There were almost all the way villages to the left and the Cauvery almost always to our right. The brown men came out and uttered such strange noises to show civility that it was more like savages than people in a rational country. Mr Torin came to us at Koilady and advised me not to go to Nijapatam. But to go by the side of the Coleroon which has been confirmed by Mr and Mrs Campbell this morning by their having met with a vast deal of water and mud. As the place where we were encamped yesterday was in the village and very close, we came here in the evening. But unfortunately, as we had four rivers to cross, it was dark before we arrived. It was a pity as we did not see all that we might have done. The Rajah sent troops and ministers, elephants and flowers. Tomorrow he comes here and the next day we go to him. He speaks English, which will be an advantage to us. This minister has just been here and the sketch will be made for you of the Rajah tomorrow.
This place is delightful. We are in an excellent house surrounded by grass and trees. I cannot say enough of the beauty of the country and the rivers. I mean to remain here til Sunday evening on account of my visit. I have to present shawls and a dress, which Mrs Torin says is unavoidable. I have desired that he (Mr Torin) wills what is to be done and to keep clear of jewels which were to be offered …
We shall go by Tiverum and see the best part of the country throughout to Tranquebar. Adieu. Many loves to you and many respects are from Mr Torin. William Hawkins came here with us. He puts me in mind of Mr Keene very often and is much older than Admiral Whits in his appearance. Mr Torin says he has no timber for you. They say that at Zappadin there are a great many excellent houses which are sold for materials and that there is a great deal of very good teak timber in them, that many people buy them on purpose for it and the town is much decayed that it costs very little I believe.
I have this minute received the Rajah and his minister’s picture sent by him to me. They say very like him … It really is very well done for that sort of thing. They are at full length about six inches high. Signora A is to take a sketch while he makes his visit tomorrow, which is the only time in which it can be done. This was settled by his Minister this morning who said he had a picture of him which he should send her to assist her afterwards which is what I have just mentioned.
Adieu, my dear Lord.
Ever yours,
very affectionately
H. A. C.
I walked out this morning in the garden. It is very pleasant. There is a degree of vegetation here I have never before seen in India. Mr Torin has several antelopes in a very well constructed building of bamboos in which they have a considerable range. He gave one of them to Harriet. Dr John from Tranquebar and two other missionaries came after breakfast to visit me. I am sorry to find that the Danish settlement is to be removed and that the formerly remarkable collection of dried insects and birds are almost dispersed …
In the evening I went to the former residence of the commanding officer and resident. It has a charming garden and is near a large tank much more pleasantly situated than where Mr Torin lives at present. They both belong to the Rajah. An officer sometime ago refused to let the late Rajah’s people take flowers for the ceremonies of the pagoda. The moment he quitted the house, it was pulled down.
September 21st I drove out in the morning … The view of the country is very extensive and fine and likewise that of the fort and pagodas.
At eleven o’clock the Rajah came to make me a visit, in great state with all his troops, elephants, camels, men in armour and colours. He rode a horse covered with cows’ tails on each side. I think there were four or five. His bridle had an ornament of diamonds and emeralds. He had a broad band of vellum stones set loose across his head. The Rajah is large but a very fine looking person and really handsome. He was magnificently dressed in a full petticoat, with a sort of jacket of kincob and a large red turban covered with pearls and had a prodigious fine emerald hung from his neck. He had scores of pearls, some very fine and of a good colour and one emerald ring that seemed to be very perfect. He speaks English tolerably well. He learnt it from the Danish missionary, Mr Schwartz* for whose memory he has the greatest respect and regard.
I delivered a message from Lord Clive, which I believe was particularly agreeable to him as he had some fears he was under the displeasure of the Government. His countenance brightened directly, as well as his Minister, who has served him faithfully … He attended him everywhere and was of course with him at Madras and slept at his door as his servant. After he had been half an hour and had asked many questions concerning the girls, he asked if he might see Major Hill’s boys do their exercise. As I had before mentioned it, all was ready, as well as the bodyguard. He seemed much pleased when we came into the veranda and saw them drawn up. They did this exercise on foot in great perfection but the space was too small for the horses to be managed or performed with much sweep. Afterwards the boys performed more manoeuvres and he was most continually pleased and seemed to understand the sword though it was so much more rapidly executed than two of his own people whom he ordered to come out and perform. His horses were all brought before me very magnificently dressed. After the usual presents of shawls to him and his Minister, he went away. The visit lasted nearly two hours and his suite was very entertaining. The figures were unlike any I had seen.
In the evening I drove out to the fort and saw the pagoda of the famous bull. It is thirteen feet high and carved in granite. We were not permitted to go into the court. There is a fine tank in which there are seven wells that supply it with water by a miracle as the Brahmins say. But Mr Torin discovered that the sources of their wells are from the river, which communicates with them and therefore fills the tank without any miracle though every person uses that water. There is also a chapel built by Mr Schwartz, and an inner fort where the Rajah lives. The streets are tolerably wide but dirty yet from the appearance of activity in the Rajah and his great desire for the good of his people I have no doubt he will soon improve it extremely.
September 22nd As I was to go this morning to return the Rajah’s visit I did not go out except to walk in the garden and see some new birds, the small ducks which are to be sent to me. At nine o’clock I set out in great form to the fort in my palanquin. The first of the palaces is of an immense size and there was a building begun by the late Rajah the model of which I have seen and it is much like the palace at Bangalore. There were many lackies under the arch of the gateways and some who were obliged to give an account of every person who goes in or comes out of the palace in the course of the day which is also done by peons at the gates of the fort.
After going through their courts I came to the Durbar which is under pillars and is long and narrow where the Rajah was sitting not so magnificently dressed as the day before on a throne of a large cushion placed in a chair without much support behind. He came to meet me … After sometime he asked if I would go to his ladies which I accepted with great pleasure and he conducted me through a large verandah upstairs into a large room where his two young wives were … His adopted Father’s [Swartz] widow was on the floor with another old woman who takes care of his child and his sister, who was as beautiful as any fairy-tale princess, were all near a bed at one part of the room. The ladies did not salaam but got up and seemed much distressed at the sight of strangers. When he had anything to say a little boy was called who conveyed the message to the eldest wife. He sent for his little girl of whom he seems extremely fond. At first when she came near me she screamed and seemed much afraid but in a short time she sat quietly on my knee. It was really pleasant to hear him talk about this little thing, saying how she played and seeming quite happy when she was lively.
He sent, too, for patterns of the different manufactories [silk] which he showed me. Some of them were very pretty. He is anxious to employ his people and to get every sort of pattern of European or other things to occupy them and is persuaded they can make anything that is shown to them. The ladies gave me and Harriet each a dress and put some flowers over our heads which gave me an opportunity to see their faces under the gold trimmed red veils that covered them. The eldest is I think the least handsome and seems deformed. The second was a very pretty girl … I did not hear them say a word and after these ceremonies I went away. They had a great many ornaments, particularly a large one that covered the back part of their hands and many rings amongst them: one of a small looking glass set in gold. They had bracelets and anklets with so many ornaments on their toes that they moved with difficulty. Their complexion was very light. After I came down stairs again I received shawls etc. from the Rajah, the same as I had given the day before …
In one of the courts there was a large royal tyger and a hunting chita in the first court. I returned home in the Rajah’s chaise. It had been sent from England some years ago. He now never uses it since he came to the throne.
After my return home, the cattle of the Rajah came to be seen. He desired Mr Torin to say that if I wished to have any they were much at my service and desired to give some of the small ones to my girls. Mr Torin chose some that were very large and beautiful and these for the girls were equally handsome and under three feet high. In the evening I went round where there were many rivers. The same I had crossed in going to Tanjore, which occasioned some delay. It was quite dark when we approached the landing place. Upon their calling for light, a blue light was brought by a Brahmin that illuminated the whole river and choultry completely. It was the same sort as those used to discover the enemy at a siege. There was a very good parade ready for me and as we were encamped on the side of the Cauvery, it was very cool and pleasant.
Though I have one eye a little sick I must write and tell you all that has passed these two days. Yesterday morning the Rajah came here. He had asked Mr Torin if he should come in his country manner with attendants in the Mahrattan† dress, which he told the Rajah he was sure, would be extremely agreeable. Therefore he was with all his troops, horse and foot, with some in ancient armour and in short with more appearance of Eastern magnificence than anything I have seen. He rode a prancing horse dressed up very much. He speaks a good deal of English and we are all charmed with his countenance and his manners …
I copied your message which Captain McAllum the Mahratta interpreter told him. His countenance brightened extremely and I find from Mr Torin that he has been in some anxiety about you and that this message made him quite happy. He has a very fine sensible countenance with much animation and good manners.
Signora Anna was to draw him during this visit which lasted altogether near two hours, but she tried and said she could not succeed.‡ Today I have been to return his visit and to his ladies. He was not so fine as yesterday in jewels: some of which were magnificent, the emeralds and some pearls. After sometime I went with all my belongings to the ladies. They are very young and handsome as far as we saw but they were wrapt up very much and did not speak. When he wanted to say anything it was as a third person to them. He has a nice little girl, of whom he seems very fond. She screamed terribly at me at first but afterwards sat upon my knee. He showed me the great Durbar … a magnificent old place. After walking about it he left us …
It was not very hot and we are all much pleased with all we have seen here. All his cattle are this moment come to visit me and I must end my letter. This evening we go to Inirare and as there is no tappal on that road perhaps I may not be able to write for a few days. Mr Harris was here yesterday. He is a quiet sensible looking man in great grief for the loss of his wife – Adieu. We are all well. Charlotte is quite alive again.
Ever, my dear Lord,
yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
Here we arrived this morning through the most glorious country I ever saw. We left Tanjore in the evening and found pandals erected by Mr Harris ready for us. Yesterday we had one that was beautiful and today I am writing in a house of cocoanut leaves where there is a gallery, which beats the great room at the Garden House. All is Colonel Gent’s ingenuity. It is impossible to describe the luxuriance of the trees and the cultivation. It is really beyond everything I recollect in England. We are still by the riverside, which supplies all this immense vegetation without any tanks except for the pagodas. In short it is perfection. Mr Harris received us here. We halt tomorrow and are to see the village, which is the largest in the country. The girls are well and in good spirits. Charlotte is herself again. I shall be anxious for her about the time we are at Pondicherry. Whenever it is necessary we must remain quiet. She is the only person that is likely to retard our journey, but it is unavoidable.
We shall be at Tranquebar the 29th September. Dr John was at Tanjore. I made acquaintance with him. I am afraid things are decaying there. A good deal I have promised you. Send him some seeds of the cinnamon or a cutting or two. He has left all his treasures for me to see but was ill the last day. Therefore I could not see him before I set out. He is gone to Trichinopoly. Adieu. Many loves to you I wish I could bring the Florentine [Charly] as well as she is now –
Ever, my dear Lord, yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
We came through a delightful country today to Combaconum where there was a magnificent pandal and a room built for me hung with a variety of garlands and ornaments. After breakfast the head of the country, formerly a very troublesome man,§ came to make his salaam. I never saw a more horrible countenance or expression than in this man’s face. A person came with a very pretty little fountain, which he wished to give me but I declined having it. It was a large copper chatty from which a fountain rose through a small tube to a considerable height and supported what appeared to be a guava in the air for some time. Afterwards it was explained that the fruit was only a piece of wood in that shape. In the evening I walked to a choultry raised upon the bank of the river and just built and afterwards, a mile from the town. The thermometer was at 87 at the highest.
The night was moonlit and they returned by boat to the pandal which had been illuminated for them.
September 24th Came through the most beautiful and rich country I ever saw by the side of the Cauvery … The multitude of villages and inhabitants was quite extraordinary being nearly lined with people. We scarcely lost sight of one set when another appeared. In short, it is impossible to inquire the population. The country is covered with rice and even the banks of the fields are sown with dry grain in certain distances are double sluices from the Cauvery to distribute the water and everything has such an appearance of being fertile that it is impossible to express the pleasure it gave me. The cocoanut topes with banyan and other trees are dispersed about and the whole has the appearance of a garden.
At this place Mr Harris the Collector met me. He had prepared a real house for me consisting of a fine gallery and two good bedchambers and, of course, nut leaves and thatched. The inside was ornamented with cloth of different colours beautifully arranged by a black man. Ten days before it was an uncultivated jungle. It was on the bank of the river and was really delightful. In the evening I went across to see the village. It is the largest in the Tanjore country and was once the residence of the Rajahs. There are some fine pagodas, one lately repaired and painted with a variety of colours, but the sculpture was such that I was told it would not do to be seen. I went to a large tank round which there are many small choultries illuminated at night which mixed with the cocoanut trees etc. had a very pretty effect. One curiosity I met with there, a cocoanut tree with two heads which is very uncommon. After passing through the town I went down the river about a mile in a boat to Mr Harris’s house. The night was moonlit and we returned by boat to our pandal. This place once was extremely rich till it was plundered by Haidar. He committed many depredations upon the Brahmin’s to force them to give up their treasure. He even killed some of their holy cows and placed them under their bleeding bodies that the blood might drop into the eyes and mouths of the Brahmins till they discovered all their treasure. It is now recovering fast and will soon recover its former splendour.
At the end of the evening under a full moon the travellers glided down the river looking at an illuminated riverbank where, according to Charly, there were six pagodas whose lights ‘floating at their base had a brilliant effect’. Their pandal had been illuminated as well.
The news of Dhoondiah’s death and Colonel Wellesley’s victory came to us.
September 25th This morning I went to the different silk weavers and saw some very pretty silk cloths, some of which I intend to have made for myself. There are several very different from what I had seen at Bangalore. One particular of brown muslin with a very handsome gold border which is the same as the Rajah’s wives wore. The houses are larger and much cleaner. It was hot early, more so than yesterday. The therm was at 86.
In the evening I drove off for an hour and returned to see some very beautiful fireworks. The country is everywhere delightful. This day before dinner the chief attendant on the deposed Rajah, whose name is Ameer Sing, came with fruit and flowers and a very civil message. I never saw fireworks better accented or better dancing girls. They were magnificently dressed and the four first performers from Tanjore were really very graceful in their manner not withstanding their strange dances. Mr Harris has prevailed on them to leave off their tomtoms and to dance to a country pipe which with a jew’s harp and a guitar composed the band. The second set of dancers were more violent, particularly one who appeared as if she could have knocked down the whole company.
I quite forgot to tell you that when the Rajah sent his cattle to visit me Mr Torin told that if you wished to have any of them the Rajah desires I would take as many as I pleased as he had many of them. They are so beautiful that I answered for you that you would be much pleased with them and Mr Torin chose a large gentleman and two ladies of the first size and age and a second set of ladies about half grown. Besides those, the Rajah desired to send some of the small ones to the girls in his own name. They are little beauties and have just passed by on their road to Madras … The Rajah’s answer to Mr Blackburn’s message from you I have got but by a mistake they have carried away my writing box. I thought it as well Mr Blackburn should write down what he said as I might make some jumble.
Mr Harris has taken great pains to make us comfortable and to answer us. We had last night the best fireworks and dancing girls I have ever seen. The night before we floated down the Cauvery from the town by moonlight and tonight we go the whole stage instead of having done it in the morning in a boat with an awning and though it is sure the water is nothing: up to a man’s chin in the deepest place or you may suppose I should not have hazarded by boats upon the water. Charlotte is perfectly well and in excellent spirits. I wish I could keep her just so till you see her. Harriet is in perfect health. I have a little fear of Charlotte about the 7th of next month. We shall then be at Cuddalore as it is our halting day there. We hear flying reports that you are coming but I do not hear it yet from you. I should like much to see you again I assure you.
The day before yesterday we had the account of Colonel Wellesley’s victory over Dhoondiah from Trichinopoly. The particulars are not yet arrived.
Adieu. This is a charming place.
Ever, my dear Lord,
yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
On September 26th the entertainment continued; the hosts carefully adhered to that which they deemed to be appropriate for British females. After an early dinner, the travellers went down the Cauvery in a boat, covered with a pretty pandal. It was pleasant and cool. When they passed by the village, the water was so shallow, that the villagers brought them fruit and flowers as they drifted along. Afterwards they got into their palanquins, and went on to Cadra Munglum, where they found their tents pitched, and a very nice choultry. It rained hard during the night.
As this was our idle morning I did not go out till just before breakfast when some very good tumblers, belonging to the Rajah, made their appearance. They did several very extraordinary things, which appeared almost incredible. One set raised a pillar like the mast of a ship and after many turnings and strange postures threw himself from the top of this mast (forty-two and one half feet high) to the ground which was made soft by being dried up a good deal. Another fastened himself upon his stomach to the top of a pole almost as high as the other and turned round with the greatest velocity, contracting his legs and arms for a long time. A woman did the same to my great astonishment.
This evening I quitted Combaconum and intended going by water all the way to Cadra Munglum. A small squall came on soon after we set out which deranged us a good deal and made us wet. The awning was obliged to be taken down. The boat was large and with a deck on which we sat in great comfort from a little after four till past seven when the shoals of sand increased a good deal and the length of the voyage being too much I left the boat and proceeded in my palanquin. As the road by land, so was that by water. Dined with people who brought fruit and flowers. Amongst the rest, the chief man from Ameer Sing, with a variety of both. Another excellent pandal was ready here where I slept, but unfortunately a violent storm of rain came on and a good deal of it came through the walls into my room.
September 27th The road was very indifferent at first owing to its being new and the storm has made it very wet and deep. I was obliged to leave the bandy and go in the palanquin to Col Dyrie’s encampment where I breakfasted. The line was drawn all when I passed consisting of some detachments of sepoys and 2 companies of the 19th Foot. Came to Mayaveram. The Cauvery runs through the town, and it is fordable everywhere. The tope was so close that we quitted it and went into a large choultry once the palace of the Rajahs.
It was very hot and a violent storm of rain did not cool it much but laid the dust in the evening. I went to see the town and, as it was the great dussera feast, there was a palanquin as the god goes a hunting. He came opposite to the choultry with a great many lights, dancing girls etc and stopped there for some time for us to see him. We saw them taking three gods out on horseback. The crowd and the reflection of the lights in the river were very pretty.
September 28th Came through a more wild road and country but still very pretty. The trees scattered at times like a park. Came to Annacampettah where there was a good veranda much before the choultry. It was very hot in the tents and the thermometer was at 91 in them and at 87 under the pandal. After dinner I went to see a cart that had been purposely put in the mud that the elephants might pull them out with their trunks. They followed the cart and at first pulled it, but on being spoken to by the drivers they pushed the wheel with their trunks and lifted the cart entirely out of the mud. Afterwards I went to one of the largest spreading banyan trees I have ever seen. The diameter was forty paces. At night there was an immense scorpion found near the veranda.
We are within five miles of Tranquebar and shall go there tomorrow. Charlotte is not quite so well as for several days past. It seems like a little bile which Hausman thinks a little rhubarb will remove and which she will take presently. It is hot but we have a sea breeze and it is very comfortable. Yesterday we were at Myaveram in a large choultry and tolerably cool there. I have great hopes the sea will do us all good, particularly Charlotte. It is a most charming country. We breakfasted yesterday with Col Dyrie at his camp on our road to Myaveram.
Have you received any lemons from Mr Hurdis, which he sent about the 12th to you? Do you like the trees he sent? I have just heard that he has sent some more down of which he has sent me the list. He believes them to be of good sorts and wishes them to be tried. Pray let great care be taken of the Malabar names (tied to them) when they are planted. I have specimens of some of them, which I shall show to Dr Rotthem. Captain Brown is just gone to Tranquebar and returns tonight to settle all about us as there is a dislike we hear to any troops going into the fort in which case if he offers his house Brown thinks we had better remain in our tents as we do not choose to be without my friends the bodyguard.
I shall write to you from Tranquebar. I enclose you what the Rajah said which I desired Mr Blackburn to write down as he gave it in Mahratra to your message, which I had sent on with the baggage by mistake.
Adieu. Charlotte desires her love to you and says she shall write soon to you which I think if it is not very soon will not be in time at least I hope so –
Adieu,
my dear Lord.
Ever your very affectionate
H. A. C.
* C. F. Schwartz, who founded a mission in Tanjore, educated Rajah Sarboji and helped him regain his throne.
† Great warrior
‡ Anna Tonelli later completed her portrait of the Rajah of Tanjore, Rajah Sarbhoji, and after her return to England in 1801, sent it to Lord Clive at Madras.
§ Tondiman, the head of the polygar chiefs, wished to give a present of jewels to Henrietta, but she had him informed that neither members of the Government, nor their families, could accept such offerings.