SERVES 4
This is one of the country’s most spectacular dishes and holds a prominent place in many seafood and rice restaurants and in homes, including ours. It incorporates the best of the Spanish Mediterranean kitchen, from a sofrito and a picada to a bold fish stock and ñora peppers.
There is a difference between the European lobster and the American one, and it’s not just where fishermen catch them. The bogavante europeo has some bluish green to the body, sometimes speckled with browns and oranges, while the bogavante americano is redder and a bit larger.
1. In a stockpot or other large pot, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown and release their juices, about 5 minutes. Add the fish, celery, parsley sprigs, peppercorns, and 2 pinches of salt. Pour in the wine, stir, let the alcohol burn off for 1 minute, and then add 8 cups/2 L water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, partly covered, for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover the pot.
2. Meanwhile, cut the ñora peppers open and discard the seeds. Place the peppers in a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 20 minutes. Drain. Using a coffee spoon, scrape the soft pulp from inside the skin and reserve. Discard the skins.
3. Clean and cut the lobster in half lengthwise down the middle. If it is female, reserve the red roe for the picada. Season the lobster generously with salt and pepper.
4. In a Dutch oven or another heavy pot, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the lobster and cook for 2 minutes, flesh-side down, then for another 2 minutes, shell-side down. Transfer to a platter. Trim away the antennae and appendages and add them to the stock. Set the rest of the lobster aside.
5. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the pot and prepare a sofrito: Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until golden and fragrant, about 1 minute; remove and reserve. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the squid and bell pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, for another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and 2 pinches of salt, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the tomato has darkened and is pasty, 10 to 15 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, cut the lobster tail crosswise in half with a heavy knife or kitchen scissors, leaving the meat attached to the shell. Crack the large claws slightly or “mark” them with the knife so they remain intact but the meat will be easily accessible when served.
7. Prepare a picada with the reserved ñora pulp, garlic, and lobster roe (if there was any) the almonds, hazelnuts, and the minced parsley, and 1 tablespoon of stock, following the directions on page 39.
8. Strain the stock through a colander, pressing out any remaining liquid from the fish and vegetables.
9. When the sofrito is ready, sprinkle in the pimentón and saffron, stir, and let the flavors meld for a few seconds. Add 6 cups/1.4 L of the stock. Increase the heat and, when the liquid reaches a boil, add the rice and the pieces of lobster along with any juices from the platter.
10. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, gently stirring occasionally. Stir in the picada, reduce the heat to low, and cook for a final 4 to 6 minutes, or until the rice grains are nearly tender but still have a definite al dente bite to them. Tip in more stock if needed to keep it nice and soupy.
11. Remove the pot from the heat and let sit covered for 3 to 4 minutes. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.