SOUPY RICE WITH FREE-RANGE CHICKEN

ARROZ CALDOSO DE POLLO DE CORRAL

SERVES 4

This is a delightful dish for a rainy evening. It uses corn-fed pollo de corral (free-range chickens). These tend to be generously sized, weighing up to 8 pounds/3½> kg, and carry the flavors of the past—those flavors that have disappeared from certain ingredients in the rush to grow them too quickly. In autumn, add a handful of mushrooms, or in spring, some trimmed artichokes or fresh-shucked peas or fava beans.

1. Remove the skin from the chicken. Split the legs into drumsticks and thighs, and then cut each in half crosswise through the bone to get eight bone-in pieces. Pick out any small bone shards.

2. In a Dutch oven or another heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chicken, onion, green pepper, and tomatoes. Season with salt and cook until the chicken is browned, about 12 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in the wine and simmer for 10 minutes. Cover with 8 cups/2 L water, bring to a low boil, lower the heat, and gently simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes, until the chicken is tender and the liquid has reduced by about one-third.

3. Meanwhile, prepare a picada with the almonds, parsley, and 1 tablespoon of the simmering liquid, following the directions on page 39.

4. Sprinkle in the rice and the saffron and stir in the picada. Cook uncovered until the rice grains are nearly tender but still have a definite al dente bite to them, 14 to 16 minutes, depending on the rice. Add more water if needed to keep it nice and soupy.

5. Remove the pot from the heat and let sit covered for 3 to 4 minutes. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.