SERVES 4
Pocketed with fishing villages, riddled with inlets, and blessed with protective coves for its colorful fleets, Spain’s northern Atlantic coast is a source of much of the country’s shellfish, from lobsters to prehistoric-looking centollas (spider crabs), from the spectacular razor clam dug in the sand to the humble mussel cultivated on floating wooden rafts called bateas. This preparation elevates the inexpensive mussel beyond its modest status into one of those dishes that is nearly impossible to stop eating. The slow-cooked tomato sofrito gives the dish a sweetness, the sherry a lovely aroma, and the mussels more than a glint of the sea.
1. In a large pot, add the mussels and ½> cup/120 ml water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer, shaking the pot from time to time, until the mussels have opened, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid. Discard any mussels that did not open. Twist off the empty half of each mussel and discard.
2. In a cazuela, heavy casserole, large sauté pan, or deep skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and prepare a sofrito with the onion and tomatoes, following the directions on page 39. Allow plenty of time for it to become particularly dark, pulpy, and sweet. Season with salt and a generous pinch of sugar during cooking and moisten from time to time with a touch of reserved liquid from cooking the mussels to keep the sofrito from drying out.
3. When the sofrito is ready, stir in the garlic and parsley. Arrange the mussels facing upward in the pan, moving them gently around the sofrito with a wooden spoon. Drizzle over the sherry and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Cover the pan and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Transfer the mussels to a serving platter and spoon the sofrito over top. Serve immediately.