SERVES 4
The village of Los Yébenes, in the Montes de Toledo mountain range, is the center of Spain’s big-game hunting, namely deer. The town itself is set on the slope of a steep hill, with a commanding view down over the fertile valley to the south. At the top of town, next door to the Ayuntamiento (town hall), sits Casa Apelio, a small hotel and restaurant that was opened in 1937 by the current proprietor’s grandfather. Now in its third generation of management, little has changed—at least in the kitchen. Venison is, not surprisingly, a specialty. This recipe is adapted from the restaurant.
Of the various cuts of venison, medallions sliced from the loin are the most tender. If using the leg or shoulder, cut thin steaks crosswise against the grain to make the pieces more tender. A few hours of marinating is usually enough, especially with game bought in markets, though longer surely won’t hurt the steaks.
Serve with puréed potatoes (see page 117) or fried potatoes (page 132). If the weather is decent, grill the venison outside over embers.
1. Trim any fat or nerves from the venison. If using loin, slice the venison into round ½>-inch-/1.25-cm-thick medallions. If using leg or shoulder, slice them crosswise against the grain into thin filets.
2. Crush the cumin in a mortar. Add the garlic, oregano, thyme, and pimentón; season with salt and pepper; and pound into a paste. Moisten with the olive oil and vinegar and blend. In a large baking dish or bowl, put the venison, add the marinade, and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours or overnight. Remove from the refrigerator an hour or so before grilling.
3. Preheat a grill pan, griddle pan, or large, heavy skillet over high heat. Remove the venison from the marinade and, without wiping off any marinade, lay the meat on the pan. Grill hot and fast, turning just once, until medium-rare, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
