PURÉED POTATOES WITH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

PURÉ DE PATATAS

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH

Spanish mashed potatoes—or rather, translated more precisely, puréed potatoes—tend to be less fluffy than their American counterparts, but rather denser and creamier. They usually include a touch of milk and butter. But, this being Spain, mashed potatoes usually have some extra-virgin olive oil whipped in at the end. Puré de patatas is a classic guarnición to accompany grilled meats (especially good with marinated venison, see page 226), poultry and game birds, and fresh sausages.

     A food mill (or else a potato ricer, so-called because of the form that the potatoes come out of the numerous tiny holes) is the typical way to make them. But they can be mashed by hand as well. Directions for both follow.

1. Peel the potatoes and cut into generous but equal-size pieces to ensure even cooking. Rinse with running water. Place in a pot, cover with plenty of cool water, add 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and gently boil until they are tender and a knife tip penetrates with little resistance, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a colander to thoroughly drain.

2. Using a food mill: Pass the potatoes through the food mill or potato ricer. Return to the (dry) pot and steam for 1 minute over medium-low heat while stirring continually. Begin folding in the butter and then milk with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and a pinch of white pepper.

Mashing by hand: Return the drained potatoes to the (dry) pot and steam for 1 minute over medium-low heat while stirring continually. Begin working in the butter and milk while mashing. Season with salt and a pinch of white pepper.

3. Whisk in the olive oil just before serving.