SERVES 6
As well as in making quince paste (see page 323), some of the hard fruit from the pear and apple family in the foothills of the Catalan Pyreness is used in this oil-and-garlic emulsion. It’s fruity without being sweet, and has the background bite, flavor, and aroma of garlic. It pairs well with grilled meats and poultry, and in Tremp—the Pallars Jussà town of my father-in-law’s family—it is frequently spread over toasted country bread.
1. To make the allioli: In a small saucepan, combine the quince, pear, and 1 cup/240 ml water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and gently boil until very tender, almost mushy, 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Transfer to a strainer to let the fruit drain and to cool. Mash into a paste with the back of a fork and remove any hard fibers.
2. To prepare using an immersion hand blender: In a tall, narrow, and cylindrical container, add the fruit paste, garlic, egg, a generous pinch of salt, some drops of vinegar, and the olive oil. While still turned off, place the blender shaft in the bottom of the container. Turn the blender on to three-fourths speed and begin blending. Once the emulsion begins to form, slowly bring the hand blender up through the oil and just out, and then slowly back down to the bottom. Bring it up once more and out. Total blending time is 30 seconds to 1 minute. The allioli should have thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise; if not, lower the shaft slowly back down to the bottom and out again.
To prepare using a food processor: Add the fruit paste, garlic, egg, a generous pinch of salt, and some drops of vinegar. Begin whirring the food processor and add the olive oil in a very slow but steady stream until all of the oil has been used and the emulsion has thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise, about 1 minute.
3. Transfer the allioli to a small serving bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
4. Preheat a grill pan or large, heavy skillet over high heat, lightly oil, and scatter with salt flakes. Lay on the rib chops, scatter salt flakes over the top, and grill for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, turning just once with tongs. Serve the chops immediately with the allioli on the side.