Of Europe’s three and a half million hectares of vineyards—95 percent of those dedicated to wine production—28 percent are in Spain. That is more than in France (25 percent) or Italy (23 percent). A bottle of wine on the table is a fundamental part of a Spanish meal. While vintages and celebrated winemakers might be appreciated, many in the country buy their table wine from the local cooperative. Co-ops, of course, bottle their vino, but also usually sell it by the liter from huge casks. For this, you take your own container to fill under the tap.
Wines are usually enjoyed on their own, though sometimes they get a festive makeover in the form of sangria. I have a mixed relationship with this often sugary drink, but recently have begun preparing, and enjoying, naturally sweetened versions with both red wine (see page 311) and white wine (see page 313). It is possible to make sangria using Cava, local champagne-style bubbly, though I don’t recommend it. A headache is almost guaranteed.
A simpler tinto de verano (summer red wine) is red wine cut with some gaseosa, a plain, sweet carbonated soda (usually La Casera brand) served over ice cubes with a slice of lemon. This is a favorite drink of summer café terraces, beachside chiringuitos (seasonal restaurants, commonly not much more than a shack), and backyards among friends. It is also an excellent way to use the tail end of a bottle that has been open for a couple of days. (Especially one of those rougher-edged bottles from the co-op.) Homemade liqueurs and liquors remain popular. In Galicia, licor de café (see page 316), licor de guinda (a small, sour cherry-like fruit), and licor de hierbas aromáticas (aromatic herbs) are all popular. These are prepared using as a base aguardiente, a strong and clear spirit made from the residue of grape-pressings like Italian grappa or French marc. In Navarra and the Basque Country, the most famous home liqueur and fine digestive is called pacharán, made by infusing sloe berries in anisette.
Perhaps the most common digestivo, though, is a shot of brandy or rum added to coffee as an after-lunch tonic. Or a morning one. (I am still shocked at the popularity of this. Pull off at any rural roadside café in the morning to see just how common it is.)
While at times it may seem otherwise, not all Spanish drinks are alcoholic or spiked with alcohol. There are lush milky drinks like leche merengada (see page 308), or refreshing, slushy granitas made from lemon (see page 309) or coffee to quench a summer’s thirst.
And, of course, the well-known and beloved hot drinking chocolate (see page 306). Is there a more soothing way to begin a cold day than with a cup of that? Or, like many, end it, in the wee hours of the morning after a late night out?
