Christopher Columbus returned from one of his first journeys to the Americas with capsicum peppers, a significant and important New World export. Growing peppers for pimentón was first done in Extremadura, perhaps after they were presented by Columbus himself at the Monastery at Yuste to Hieronymite monks. The monks perfected the cultivation and drying of the peppers, and began using the ground pimentón in cooking.
Over the centuries, the ground spice spread around Spain, as seen in so many classic regional dishes: in empanada dough and vinegary ajada sauce fish (see page 169) in Galicia; potatoes in La Rioja (see page 118); with skate in Huelva; in numerous Andalusian marinades; chorizos from Navarra and La Rioja; soft, spreadable Mallorcan sobrassada sausage; cured pork loin in Extremadura; even rubbed into the rind of Mahón cheese in Menorca to give a characteristic reddish-gold color.
Long, red capsicum peppers—to be precise, of the Ocales group and the Bola variety—produce three flavors of pimentón: dulce (sweet), agridulce (bittersweet), and picante (spicy). Each has its own use in the kitchen, though sweet is by far the most common with the home cook.
The heart of the industry remains in Extremadura, above all in the valley of La Vera. Hand-harvested in October, the peppers are dehydrated and smoked slowly by oak-wood fires over ten or fifteen days, with workers turning the peppers by hand on the rack as needed. The peppers are then finely ground in traditional stone mills—slowly, avoiding excess heat from the friction, which might result in the spice becoming bitter—into a brilliant red brick-colored powder, silky in touch, and carrying strong smoky aromas and flavors. My favorite brand is La Dalia, but any with the Denominación de Origen Pimentón de La Vera seal is excellent.
The region of Murcia, too, has a long tradition of quality pimentón, and its industry has now overtaken Extremadura in size. While the first references to Murcian pepper production date from the sixteenth century (shared, no doubt, by friars at a brother-monastery), the industry grew dramatically during the middle of the 1800s. Pimentón here is dried in the sun or with hot air (but not smoked) before being ground.
While pimentón from Murcia does not have the smoky headiness of La Vera, the flavors give a rich, confident—but not dominating—boost to countless dishes. For many dishes, it is my preferred choice.