SERVES 4
Dishes a la riojana—from La Rioja or La Rioja style—generally mean that they have chorizo and red bell peppers. The most famous riojana preparation is surely this one, with potatoes. A longtime friend (and dominoes partner) of my father-in-law from Logroño, La Rioja, Nicolas Morales, taught me his recipe. Nicolas was also the one who first taught me to “snap” the potatoes into irregular pieces—not cut them—before adding. This makes the potatoes sweat out more of their natural starches, which in turn thickens the sauce. Chasquear (or chascar)—it can mean “snap,” “click,” or “crack”—is the name for this technique widely used in many stewed dishes that include potatoes.
1. In a cazuela, Dutch oven, large sauté pan, or deep skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to soften and turn pale, about 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the tomato, chorizo, and paprika; season with salt; and pour in the wine. Stir and cook for 2 minutes to let the alcohol burn off.
2. Working over the pan and adding them directly to the stew, break the potatoes into generous bite-size pieces by making a small cut with a paring knife, twisting the blade, and snapping off a piece. (You will hear the noise.) Add the bay leaf, cover with 2 cups/480 ml water, and bring to a boil.
3. Prepare a picada with the garlic and parsley and a spoonful of the simmering liquid, following the directions on page 39; stir into the pan.
4. When the liquid reaches a boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook uncovered until the potatoes are very tender—the tines of a fork should easily pierce them—and the edges are beginning to crumble, about 45 minutes, although it depends on the type of potato. At the end, the sauce should be quite loose; add in bit of water during cooking if needed. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed before serving.