CONDIMENTS
SPROUTED LENTIL AND CUMIN RAITA
CRISPY SPINACH RAITA WITH POMEGRANATE
CITRUSY ORANGE AND RAISIN CHUTNEY
CUSTARD APPLE AND COCONUT CHUTNEY
GREEN TOMATO AND PINEAPPLE RELISH
Green Mango Salsa
Green unripe mango pieces add a crunchy bite to this salsa without getting mushy. Cherries, combined with green mangoes, add bold colors plus a sweet-tart flavor. Sometimes I add seasonal fruits like strawberries, and some chilies will give it a spicy kick.
SERVES 1
Juice of 1 lime
1 large green mango, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 medium tomato, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 red onion, coarsely chopped
10 to 12 red cherries, seeded
Salt to taste
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
To make the salsa, combine all ingredients into a bowl and mix well.
Green Mango Salsa
Sprouted Lentil and Cumin Raita
Sprouted lentils are nutritious and an extremely versatile ingredient that can be added to salads, soups, and curries, or even used as a garnish. Sprouting lentils is very easy. The procedure of sprouting is almost the same for all grains and legumes, just the timing varies. Topped off with the smoky, woody flavors of toasted cumin, this raita is cooling, healthy, and delicious.
SERVES 2
1 cup mixed lentil sprouts
1 cup plain yogurt
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 green chilies, chopped
¼ cup coarsely chopped mint leaves
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly roasted
Mix all the ingredients together in a medium mixing bowl. Cover and chill in a refrigerator for 1 hour and serve.
Sprouted Lentil and Cumin Raita
Tamarind and Eggplant Raita
Raitas can be made using almost any kind of vegetable. The eggplant can be fried, as in this recipe, or grilled or roasted for a healthier option. Sweet and sour tamarind is added to the yogurt, seasoned with rich, warm, and smoky paprika.
SERVES 3
Vegetable oil for frying
1 medium eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups plain yogurt, whisked until smooth
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 scallion, thinly sliced
Heat the oil to 350°F.
Gently fry the eggplant in batches until cooked through.
In a medium mixing bowl combine fried eggplant, yogurt, paprika, tamarind, salt, and cilantro and mix well.
Cover and chill.
Serve chilled, garnished with the scallion.
Tamarind and Eggplant Raita
Crispy Okra Raita
Tempering with curry leaves and mustard seeds brings the classic South Indian flavor to this savory raita topped with crispy okra. Frying the okra makes it a nice, crunchy treat with the deliciously spiced yogurt.
SERVES 4
10 to 12 tender okra
2 tablespoons rice flour
Vegetable oil for frying, plus 2 tablespoons
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon split gram
1 dried red chili, halved
¼ teaspoon asafoetida
4 to 6 curry leaves
2 cups plain yogurt, whisked until smooth
Salt to taste
Clean the okra with a damp kitchen towel and cut off both ends. Slice the okra lengthwise, toss with rice flour, and set aside.
Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F. Fry the cut okra until crispy, remove with a slotted spoon, and drain onto a paper towel.
Heat the oil in a small pan over medium heat and fry the mustard seeds, split gram, chili, asafoetida, and curry leaves until the mustard seeds start crackling and the mixture is very fragrant. Remove from the heat and let cool. Add the spice mixture to the yogurt with salt and mix well.
Divide the yogurt among 6 dip bowls, garnish with the fried okra, and serve immediately.
Crispy Okra Raita
Crispy Spinach Raita with Pomegranate
In this refreshing raita, fresh ruby red pomegranate seeds add a tangy bite and texture along with the goodness of spinach greens. I generally add spinach just before serving, or sometimes even serve it on the side, so that it doesn’t lose its crunchiness.
SERVES 4
Vegetable oil for deep frying
½ pound fresh baby spinach, washed and patted dry
2 cups sour cream
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and ground
¼ teaspoon red chili powder
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
½ cup fresh pomegranate seeds
Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F.
Fry the spinach until crispy, remove with a slotted spoon, and drain onto a paper towel.
Combine the sour cream with onion, cumin, chili powder, pepper, and salt and whisk well.
To serve, spoon dollops of spiced sour cream into a bowl, garnish with the pomegranate and fried spinach, and serve immediately.
Crispy Spinach Raita with Pomegranate
Zucchini and Lime Raita
The beautiful golden zucchini is slightly sweeter and has a firmer texture than the subtle flavors of the slightly softer green zucchini. The lime juice marinade with chilies and garlic infuses a tangy zest of flavor. However, do not the marinate zucchini for too long as it will lose its firmness because of the acidity of the lime juice. I like to layer the zucchini on top of the yogurt, rather than mix it in, which gives it a great visual appeal.
SERVES 4
1 large green zucchini, thinly sliced
1 large yellow zucchini, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 2 limes
4 large cloves garlic
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
½ teaspoon crushed peppercorns
Sea salt to taste
2 cups Greek yogurt
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Combine sliced zucchini with olive oil, lime juice, garlic, chili flakes, pepper, and salt. Toss well and keep aside to marinate for 5 minutes.
Heat a grill pan, grease with the prepared marinade, and arrange the marinated zucchini in a single layer. Grill the zucchini on both sides until grill marks appear clearly.
In a mixing bowl, combine yogurt with salt and pepper. Spoon the yogurt in an even layer on a platter. Layer the grilled zucchini, alternating green and yellow over the yogurt, and drizzle the remaining marinade over it.
Serve immediately, garnished with the scallions.
Zucchini and Lime Raita
Plantain Jaggery Chutney
In South Indian cuisine plantains are cooked in jaggery, which adds more color and sweetness to them. This sweetness balances off two layers of spiciness added by peppercorns and red chilies in this recipe. This chutney could also be puréed and added as a marinade to create an intense flavor for grilled vegetables. I sometimes add a spoonful of this chutney while simmering vegetables to create delicious curries.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
½ cup grated jaggery
⅔ cup white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
½-inch cinnamon stick
5 cloves
8 black peppercorns
10 cloves garlic
One 2-inch fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
10 to 15 dried red chilies
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
4 ripe plantains, peeled and sliced lengthwise
2 tablespoons black mustard seeds, ground to a powder
Salt to taste
Soak the jaggery in the wine vinegar. Combine the cardamom seeds, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns, garlic, ginger, and chilies in a spice grinder and grind to a paste with a little water.
Heat the oil, add ground paste and turmeric, and fry for 1 minute. Add the plantains and cook until soft. Add the jaggery, wine vinegar mixture, mustard, and salt and stir well, then simmer over low heat until the mixture comes together. Leave to cool. Store in airtight jars and refrigerate.
Plantain Jaggery Chutney
Citrusy Orange and Raisin Chutney
An easy recipe with an undertone of spices added to the citrusy flavors of orange and balanced by the sweet fruitiness of the dates. Seltzer water can be added to a spoonful of this chutney to make a tasty drink. The sparkle of the seltzer water creates a fizziness that brings out the wonderful flavors of the oranges and spicy cayenne. You can also store this chutney in sterilized airtight jars and refrigerate for up to a month.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
6 to 8 oranges, such as navel, cut into segments
1 red onion, chopped
⅔ cup golden raisins
¾ cup granulated sugar, or to taste
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
½ cup malt vinegar
Combine the oranges in a large pan with all the remaining ingredients on medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally for about 15 to 20 minutes until the mixture comes together.
Serve fresh.
Citrusy Orange and Raisin Chutney
Star Fruit and Ginger Pickle
The firm texture and tangy flavor of the star-shaped, tropical star fruit make it perfect for pickles. Usually vegetables are sun dried while making pickles; however, here they are cooked on the stove top to speed up the preparation. It is additionally flavored with spicy ginger and aromatic asafoetida and the earthy flavors of sesame oil.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
2 tablespoons sesame seed oil
½ teaspoon asafoetida
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
4 teaspoons chili powder
One 5-inch fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
4 to 6 star fruits, sliced
Salt to taste
3 tablespoons sugar
Dry roast the fenugreek seeds on medium-low heat in a small pan until darker in color. Cool and grind to a powder.
Heat oil in a medium pan over medium heat and add the asafoetida and mustard seeds. When the mustard crackles, add the remaining ingredients and cook for a few minutes, stirring until flavors are well blended.
Serve hot or at room temperature.
Star Fruit and Ginger Pickle
Mango and Cranberry Chutney
Chutneys are a great accompaniment to savory snacks and vegetables. Summer is a great time for mango lovers like me, as there are so many varieties available. I served this chutney in the summer of 2007 at my restaurant in New York in a tasting menu called “Tango with Mango” for a special celebration of the fruit.
MAKES 2 CUPS
4 green mangoes
1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries (thawed if frozen)
One 2-inch fresh ginger, peeled and grated
4 tablespoons maple syrup
½ cup vinegar
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons salt
Peel and slice the mangoes.
Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottom pan over medium heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally until all the flavors blend and the mangoes are tender but still firm, about 15 minutes.
Leave to cool. Transfer to sterilized airtight jars. This chutney can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month.
Mango and Cranberry Chutney
PRESERVED FOR FLAVORS
In many parts of India, condiments or pickles are the identity of the kitchen. These condiments not only capture and preserve the flavor of the fruit and seasonings, but they are an essential part of the meals.
Sweet, salty, spicy, sour, and pungent, the fruits and vegetables are picked at the height of the season when the flavors are in their prime and are then, interestingly, sealed away to be enjoyed for the rest of the year.
The flavor of the jam as it is spread on nice crusty toast or a stale piece of flatbread brightens up any morning for me.
Right after dust storms, we would run to collect raw mangoes that had fallen of the tree. Some would go straight to our stomach and some to the kitchen. The ones that made it to the kitchen would be turned into fresh cooling mango drinks and sometimes mango pickles with mustard oil, fennel, and nigella seeds after they were fermented in the sun.
Peach and Bay Leaves Chutney
Aromatic bay leaves bring out the warm taste in this sweet and spicy fruit chutney made with ripe juicy peaches and tart red currants. The pungent and lemony undertones of ginger add another flavor to this great side dish.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
6 peaches, stoned and sliced
⅔ cup red currants
2 medium red onion, finely chopped
One 1-inch fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
Salt to taste
3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
3 large bay leaves
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat until the peaches are mushy and the flavors are well blended. Leave to cool. Store in a sterilized glass jar for up to a month in the refrigerator.
Peach and Bay Leaves Chutney
Guava and Fenugreek Relish
This condiment captures the exotic sweetness and musky aromas of soft ripe guavas. Lime juice and cilantro also add to the main flavors of the relish, making it a fresh citrusy accompaniment to the main dish it is served with.
MAKES ABOUT 1 ½ CUPS
4 ripe guavas, seeded and cut into wedges
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon black salt
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves
One 2-inch piece fresh turmeric, peeled and sliced
4 green chilies, halved
4 tablespoons lemon juice
Toss the guavas with the oil and salt. Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat and grill the guavas until marks appear. Toss the grilled guavas with the remaining ingredients and serve.
Guava and Fenugreek Relish
Custard Apple and Coconut Chutney
The sweet and creamy floral flavors of custard apples are a perfect complement to the rich tropical flavors of coconut. White wine vinegar is used to add a delicate yet mellow sourness and acid in this preserve. Sometimes I substitute bananas for custard apples, which also work very well.
MAKES ABOUT 1 ½ CUPS
2 ripe custard apples, pulp removed
1 cup freshly grated coconut
4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Coarse salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
10 to 12 fresh mint leaves
Combine all the ingredients and toss well.
Serve chilled.
Custard Apple and Coconut Chutney
Green Tomato and Pineapple Relish
A Thai-inspired recipe that combines the sour unripe, green tomatoes and the sweet, juicy pineapple with the beautiful color, aroma, and light peppery taste of pink peppercorns. I like to add extra basil leaves for their light, refreshing flavor.
MAKES 2 CUPS
1 cup diced pineapple
2 green tomatoes, diced
½ fresh red chili, seeded and finely chopped
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon dried pink peppercorns
Salt to taste
¼ cup fresh basil leaves
Toss all the ingredients together and set aside for an hour to allow the flavors to merge. Fill a sterilized glass jar and refrigerate.
Serve chilled.
Green Tomato and Pineapple Relish
Green Apple and Garlic Pickle
The sourness of green apple combines wonderfully with the flavor of garlic. You can leave the garlic cloves whole as well and add ginger. Sugarcane juice brings a refreshing mild sweetness to the pickle, but you can also substitute it with any other juice you prefer.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
4 green apples, cored and diced
2 fresh red chilies, sliced
4 to 6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon allspice berries
1 cup freshly squeezed sugarcane juice
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt to taste
Combine the the ingredients in a saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until the apples soften and the flavors merge. Leave to cool. Fill sterilized glass jars and store in a refrigerator.
Green Apple and Garlic Pickle