Lemon Crème Fraîche Ice Cream

Makes between 1 and 1½ quarts ice cream

Pastry chefs prize crème fraîche for its dual richness and acidity, adding it to desserts with great abandon. Ice cream is no exception, though crème fraîche ice cream is something rarely seen. This is really too bad, because it’s one of the most versatile and delicious flavors you can make.

Crème fraîche is made by inoculating cream with a selective set of live cultures, which convert lactose into lactic acid, thickening the cream and giving it a wonderful, sour cream–like tartness. Many stores sell crème fraîche, but it can be rather expensive. If you have a little time on your hands, crème fraîche can also be made at home (see this page). For a more accessible but no less delicious ice cream, you can substitute sour cream for the crème fraîche.

I love a hint of lemon in this crème fraîche ice cream. Meyer lemons, a cross between a lemon and a tangerine, would make a wonderful choice for this ice cream. For a plain crème fraîche ice cream, just omit the lemon zest and juice.

Milk powder (2%)
20g | 3 tablespoons

Sugar (15%)
150g | ¾ cup

Cream (10%)
100g | ½ cup

Milk (38%)
380g | 2 cups

Glucose (5%)
50g | ¼ cup

Grated lemon zest
10g | 2 teaspoons, tightly packed (from 1 large lemon)

Crème fraîche (28%)
280g | 1½ cups

Fresh lemon juice (strained of flesh or pits) (2%)
20g | 1 tablespoon

Texture agent of your choice (see below)

Combine the milk powder and sugar. Mix the milk powder and sugar Numeral 1 in a small bowl.

Boil the dairy. Place the cream, milk, and glucose in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, and cook, whisking occasionally to discourage the milk from scorching, until it comes to a full rolling boil.

Add and cook the milk powder. Whisk the milk powder mixture into the pot. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and continue cooking for 2 minutes Numeral 4, whisking to prevent scorching Numeral 3.

Infuse. Remove the pot from the heat. Stir the lemon zest into the hot dairy, and allow it to infuse for 30 minutes.

Strain and chill. Strain the base through a fine-mesh sieve, into a shallow metal or glass bowl, discarding the zest. Fill a large bowl two-thirds of the way with a lot of ice and a little water. Nest the hot bowl into this ice bath, stirring occasionally until it cools down Numeral 2.

Add the crème fraîche and lemon juice. When the base is cool to the touch (50°F or below), whisk in the crème fraîche and lemon juice.

Cure. Transfer the ice cream base to the refrigerator to cure for 4 hours, or preferably overnight. (This step is optional, but the texture will be much improved with it.)

Churn. Place the base into the bowl of an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The ice cream is ready when it thickens into the texture of soft-serve ice cream and holds its shape, typically 20 to 30 minutes.

Harden. To freeze your ice cream in the American hard-pack style, immediately transfer it to a container with an airtight lid. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream to prevent ice crystals from forming, cover, and store it in your freezer until it hardens completely, between 4 and 12 hours. Or, feel free to enjoy your ice cream immediately; the texture will be similar to soft-serve.

TEXTURE AGENTS

Numeral 1 Best texture Commercial stabilizer 3g | 1 teaspoon mixed with the sugar before it is added to the dairy.

Numeral 2 Least icy Guar or xanthan gum 1g | ¼ teaspoon whirled in a blender with the ice cream base after it is chilled in the ice bath.

Numeral 3 Easiest to use Tapioca starch 5g | 2 teaspoons mixed with 20g | 2 tablespoons of cold milk, whisked into the ice cream base after it is finished cooking.

Numeral 4 Most accessible Cornstarch 10g | 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon, mixed with 20g | 2 tablespoons of cold milk, whisked into the simmering dairy, then cooked for 1 minute.