Alla boscaiola means “in the style of the woodsman” and variations are found all over Italy; there are even Italian-American versions, most of which feature tomato sauce. Considering that the forests outside Bologna are rife with mushrooms, especially in fall, this is the perfect dish for that time of year. A lot of people ask me why I omit heavy cream, a common ingredient. The reason is to highlight the mushrooms and herbs, which evoke the aromas of the forest floor.
I prefer to use a mix of mushrooms for their different textures and flavors. This is easy to do because my trusted local forager goes out and gets me the craziest stuff. But you can modify the types of mushrooms you use based on the season and your location. Opt for a mix of button mushrooms, cremini, or whatever you find, or use just one type. The total amount should be 15 oz [425 g]. (Frozen porcini are fine, too. Before using, defrost completely, overnight in the refrigerator, uncovered on an absorbent non-terry cloth kitchen towel.)
You want to make the most of the mushroom’s meaty texture, so don’t slice them too thinly. Halve smaller mushrooms, quarter any that are medium in size, and cut larger ones into finger-thick slices.
SERVES 6
2 TBSP UNSALTED BUTTER
1 OZ [28 G] PANCETTA, CUT INTO 1/4 IN [6 MM] BATONS
1 SMALL SHALLOT, THINLY SLICED
3 OZ [85 G] PORCINI MUSHROOMS, SLICED
3 OZ [85 G] CHANTERELLES, SLICED
3 OZ [85 G] KING TRUMPET MUSHROOMS, SLICED
3 OZ [85 G] OVOLI, SLICED
3 OZ [85 G] MORELS, SLICED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, SMASHED
1 SPRIG ROSEMARY
1/2 CUP [120 ML] DRY WHITE WINE
1 CUP [240 ML] BRODO DI FUNGHI (PAGE 246)
KOSHER SALT
1 RECIPE GNOCCHI DI RICOTTA (PAGE 46)
2 TBSP CHOPPED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY
1 CUP [100 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
In a large sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 Tbsp of the butter until frothy and golden. Add the pancetta and cook until crispy and the fat has rendered, about 2 minutes. Add the shallot and cook until it just begins to take color, about 2 minutes.
Add the mushrooms in order of density. First, the porcini mushrooms; cook for 30 seconds. Next, in this order, the chanterelles, king trumpet, ovoli, and morels, cooking for 20 seconds after each addition. Once all the mushrooms have been added, cook, without stirring or agitating the pan, for 1 minute more.
Add the garlic and rosemary and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and cook until the liquid in the pan has evaporated, about 40 seconds. Add the brodo, swirl the pan, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Add the remaining 1 Tbsp butter and swirl to melt. Remove and discard the garlic and rosemary. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the gnocchi and cook until tender, 2 to 21/2 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat and stir in the parsley. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce and gently swirl to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with the Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top.
