LASAGNE VERDE ALLA BOLOGNESE

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MAKES ONE 15 BY 9.5 IN [38 BY 24 CM] LASAGNA, SERVING 6

UNSALTED BUTTER, FOR GREASING

1 RECIPE SFOGLIA VERDE AGLI SPINACI (PAGE 42), AT ROOM TEMPERATURE

“00” FLOUR, FOR DUSTING

KOSHER SALT

1/2 RECIPE RAGÙ DELLA VECCHIA SCUOLA (PAGE 90)

1 RECIPE BESCIAMELLA (PAGE 70)

6 CUPS [600 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO, PLUS MORE FOR SPRINKLING

Preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C]. Lightly grease a 15 by 9.5 in [38 by 24 cm] baking dish with unsalted butter.

Roll one dough ball to a thickness of 9 Post-it® Notes on a lightly floured surface (see page 50). Using a sharp knife, cut the sfoglia into 3 pieces measuring about 16 by 8 in [40 by 20 cm]. Lightly flour another surface and set the pieces on it to dry, uncovered, for about 15 minutes, flipping midway through the drying time. Reserve the scraps, which you may need to fill in any gaps when assembling the lasagna.

Meanwhile, repeat the process with the remaining dough ball.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add 1 pasta sheet and blanch for 30 seconds. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the prepared baking sheet to cool. Once the pasta is cool enough to handle, smooth it out. Repeat with the remaining 5 pasta sheets.

Spread about 1 cup [225 g] of ragù in the prepared baking dish, distributing it evenly. Spread 1/2 cup [112.5 g] of the besciamella over the ragù, distributing it evenly. Place one blanched pasta sheet over the sauce and besciamella layer. Spread about 1 cup [225 g] of ragù over the blanched pasta, distributing it evenly, followed by 1/2 cup [112.5 g] of the besciamella, distributing it evenly. Dust with about 1 cup [100 g] of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Continue to layer the pasta with the remaining ragù, besciamella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, ending with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the pasta is cooked through and the edges are crispy and browned, about 30 minutes more. Let the lasagna rest for 10 to 15 minutes to firm up before serving. Serve immediately with more Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side.

The cooked lasagna will keep, refrigerated and tightly covered, for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.

BESCIAMELLA

BÉCHAMEL

Made with butter, flour, and milk, béchamel is a classic white sauce that’s a staple in Italian and French cooking. Bologna’s lasagna wouldn’t be the same without it. To prevent the sauce from congealing, which would make it difficult to spread between the layers, prepare it last and time its completion to coincide with boiling the pasta sheets. You can also make it ahead and reheat it.

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MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS [1.1 KG]

8 TBSP [1 STICK, OR 112 G] UNSALTED BUTTER

1 CUP [125 G] “00” FLOUR

1 QT [960 ML] WHOLE MILK

1 TSP KOSHER SALT

5 SMALL PINCHES OF GROUND NUTMEG, PREFERABLY FRESHLY GRATED

In a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, melt the butter until frothy and golden. Whisking vigorously, slowly “rain in” the flour. Once all the flour is added, whisk continuously for 3 minutes more. The mixture should appear crumbly, but smell sweet and toasted.

Still whisking continuously, add the milk in a steady stream, whisking until the mixture is very smooth. Season with the salt and nutmeg and whisk to combine. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook the mixture until it is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 21/2 minutes. Use now or refrigerate.

The béchamel will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container with plastic wrap laid over the surface, for up to 5 days. To reheat, transfer to a medium sauté pan or skillet and add warm water, as needed, whisking constantly to avoid clumping as the béchamel warms.

BOLOGNA’S GLORIOUS HARDWARE STORES

I’m obsessed with hardware stores in general, and I never miss an opportunity to pop into one of Bologna’s many family-owned ferramente. Where else can you get keys cut while shopping for otherworldly bronze cherub doorknockers and everyday kitchen equipment? My go-to shop in Bologna is Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo on Via Drapperie, a street running through the heart of the city that is absolutely packed with food shops.

Since opening their store in 1783, the Bernagozzi family has amassed a vast collection of essential and esoteric items for the home. Not surprisingly, you can usually find me in the pasta-related section. I’ve spent many happy hours there perusing everything from an array of accordion cutters to bronze pasta tools from the 1960s and ’70s that would fetch a pretty penny on eBay, but are very affordable at Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo (and they don’t do mail order). The items are stocked floor to ceiling, so be sure to check your claustrophobia at the door. I guarantee you’ll find whatever you need, as well as items you didn’t even know existed—or that you needed!