The New Penguin Cookery Book

Eggs

Choosing

Apart from size and colour, there is nothing to distinguish one egg from another in a shop. The colour of the shell has no relevance to quality; it is dictated by the breed of the laying hen. Labelling as organic or free-range is accurate, although many free-range birds are intensively farmed. Indications such as ‘farm fresh’ make no distinction between the traditional farmyard and the battery farm. Eggs produced by hens fed on a diet of grains and grass have a better flavour, and darker, richer yolks – but yolk-colourants can be fed to battery hens, so a deep yellow yolk does not always signify quality. Organic eggs usually have thicker shells because the hens have more calcium in their diet, and thicker shells are more impervious to bacteria and will protect the egg longer during storage. Only buy eggs with clean undamaged shells; cracked shells lead to rapid spoilage.

Eggs are graded very large, large, medium and small, but in practice only medium and large are widely available. The boxes, and often the eggs themselves, carry a ‘best before’ date corresponding to three weeks after laying.

Freshness

Eggs have a small air pocket in the rounded end which gets larger as the egg gets older and loses moisture through the pores in the shell. If you immerse an egg in cold water, a new-laid egg will lie flat, an older egg is more buoyant and will tilt and eventually stand upright in the water. If it floats to the surface it is too old and should be thrown away.

Another way to determine freshness is to crack the egg onto a small plate. A fresh egg will have a rounded well-centred yolk to which most of the viscous translucent white clings, and a narrow runny outer layer. In an older egg, the yolk moves out of the centre of the white and eventually flattens; the white becomes progressively thinner and finally quite watery.

For most purposes, the fresher the egg, the better, but there are some preparations for which a very fresh egg is not the best. To make mayonnaise use an egg that is at least 1 day old; for poaching use eggs that are at least 2 days old; and for meringues eggs that are at least 3 days old. Eggs that are less than 3 days old are difficult to peel when hardboiled. Most of us, of course, buy our eggs from a shop, and never experience eggs as fresh as this.

Storing

Eggs are best kept at a constant cool temperature, either in a larder or in the least cold part of the refrigerator. Let eggs come to room temperature before using. Store them pointed end down. The porous shells allow contamination by bacteria and smells, so keep the eggs away from strong-smelling foods.

Separated whites and yolks can be kept tightly covered in the refrigerator – whites for up to 1 week, yolks for 1–2 days only, after which they start to dry out.

Composition and the effects of cooking

Egg yolks are a source of protein, vitamins, minerals and fats. Whites contain some protein (albumen) but are mostly water. The yolks have a relatively high cholesterol content, the whites none. Current medical advice for people at risk from high cholesterol is that eggs can be eaten in moderation; cholesterol-lowering diets allow up to 2 whole eggs per week and, of course, as much white as is wished.

Salmonella bacteria, which can cause serious food poisoning, are very occasionally found in raw eggs. This is why it is not recommended to give raw or very lightly cooked egg to children, pregnant women, the elderly or anyone whose immune system may be at a low ebb.

When an egg is cooked the proteins thicken and solidify. The white cooks more quickly than the yolk. The effect is most clearly seen when cooking a whole egg; the white is set and firm, but the yolk remains soft and moist. Eggs need gentle heat; if cooked at too high a temperature or for too long, the whites become tough and rubbery and, when cooked whole, the yolks become dry and crumbly. Omelettes or batters turn leathery, and beaten egg used in custards or to thicken soups and sauces will curdle and become watery and grainy if overcooked.

Using whites and yolks

Separating eggs

Crack the shell in half over a bowl, tip the yolk carefully from one half shell to the other, letting the white fall into the bowl. Egg whites will not whisk to a snow if any of the yolk falls in, so separate them carefully to keep the yolks whole. If any bits of yolk fall into the bowl use one of the shell halves to scoop them out or a piece of kitchen paper to blot them up. Put the yolks into a shallow bowl.

If you are apprehensive about allowing the white to drain from the shell, crack the egg onto a saucer, place an egg cup over the yolk and drain off the white.

Beating eggs

Whole eggs and yolks For an omelette the eggs should be beaten lightly just before cooking. They can be beaten with a fork or a whisk in a small basin.

When eggs are used to aerate a mixture, the beating incorporates air, which expands when the mixture is heated. Whole eggs and yolks can be beaten to greater volume with an electric whisk or a balloon whisk. Sugar is often added if the mixture is for a cake; this helps the mixture to thicken.

Whites Egg whites must be completely free of yolk, and the bowl and balloon whisk should be scrupulously clean: a speck of grease may prevent the whites whisking to their maximum volume. The egg white whisking attachment on food processors does a reasonable job of whisking quickly, but the whites will attain greater volume if the job is finished by hand. A copper bowl is the professional choice for beating egg whites, but a stainless steel or glass bowl can also be used.

A pinch of salt added before beating will help the whites to stiffen. Lightly beaten egg whites look foamy and remain quite liquid. To whisk further, lift the whisk to beat in as much air as possible. Stiffly beaten whites are shiny and form peaks when the whisk is raised, and will cling to the whisk above the bowl. To make a meringue, sugar is added once the whites have begun to stiffen. Whites whisked for too long become grainy.

Folding in egg whites

If the beaten egg whites are to be added to a heavy mixture, first stir in a small amount of the egg white to lighten the consistency. To fold in the remainder, use a rubber spatula or a metal spoon, and cut down through the centre of the mixture, across the bottom and up the sides of the bowl, turning the mixture in a rolling motion. Turn the bowl and repeat the folding until the whites are evenly incorporated to give a light, airy mixture.

Eggs for thickening

Whole eggs, or more often yolks, are used to enrich and thicken sauces and soups. The success of the operation depends on cooking the mixture below boiling point otherwise the egg will curdle. For a sauce, use a heavy pan or a double boiler to heat the egg gently while whisking it to a mousse (p. 373). To thicken a soup, whisk the egg, then stir in a ladleful of the hot soup and return the mixture to the soup off the heat or over very low heat, and stir while gently heating through.

Boiled eggs

The first thing to be said is that boiled eggs should be simmered, not boiled. Boiling toughens the whites and rattling around in a pan of boiling water might crack the shell, allowing the egg to leak. Piercing the round end with a pin can prevent the shell cracking during cooking. If you salt the water it stops the white leaking out if the shell should crack.

The best way is to put eggs at room temperature into a pan of simmering water, bring the water to the boil, immediately lower the heat so that it returns to the simmer and cook for the required time. Start timing from the moment the eggs go into the water.

A soft-boiled egg (white set firm enough to hold the yolk, and soft yolk) will take 3–4 minutes, an oeuf mollet (white firm, yolk almost set, but runny in the middle) will take 5–6 minutes and a hardboiled egg (white and yolk set) 10–12 minutes. Eggs cooked longer than this will be rubbery, with a crumbly yolk which will probably have a green-black rim around it. A new-laid egg will take a minute longer for the white to set. Once cooked, plunge hardboiled eggs into cold water to stop them cooking further.

To shell an oeuf mollet or a hardboiled egg, it is best to crack it all over with a spoon and peel off the inner skin with the shell. Keep eggs in a bowl of water, once shelled, to prevent them drying out.

Hardboiled eggs can be served with a herb or plain mayonnaise (p. 362) on a bed of lettuce and rocket, in salads, in kedgeree or chopped as a garnish. Use oeufs mollets as you would poached eggs.

Quails’ eggs should be added to simmering water and cooked for 5 minutes for hardboiled. Plunge them into cold water to arrest further cooking. For oeufs mollets, allow 1½ minutes’ simmering time, then stand for another 30 seconds off the heat before draining.

Chinese tea eggs

These aromatic eggs with their marbled whites are often served for Chinese New Year celebrations, but they make a good supper, served hot with puréed spinach or quick tomato sauce (pp. 378); the eggs cold are excellent for picnics or sandwich fillings. Choose a Chinese tea such as Keemun or Yunnan for preference.

For 6

6 hardboiled eggs

1½ tbs black tea leaves

600ml water

1 star anise*

4cm piece cinnamon

2 tbs dark soy sauce

1 tsp salt

Craze the egg shells gently by tapping them or rolling them on a table so that they are cracked all over but do not come loose. Put the eggs into a pan with all the other ingredients. Bring slowly to the boil and simmer for 45 minutes. Allow the eggs to cool in the liquid to intensify the flavour if you intend to serve them cold. To serve hot, lift them out, remove the shells, showing the veined marble effect of thin brown lines, and serve.

Tea eggs will keep refrigerated and unshelled for 3–4 days.

Poached eggs

The eggs must be fresh, otherwise the whites will not cling to and coat the yolks when immersed in the water. Do not attempt to poach more than 4 eggs at a time because it is too difficult to regulate the temperature of the water. Break each egg into a cup or small bowl (if the whites look too runny and you have no fresher eggs available, change plans and make another dish). Bring 6–7cm water to the boil in a sauté pan or deep frying pan with a tablespoon of mild vinegar to help stop the white breaking up. Do not add salt. Slide in the eggs, cover the pan and turn off the heat. Leave undisturbed for 3 minutes. The whites should be set and the yolks soft and covered with a light coating of white. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of cold water to arrest the cooking.

They can be stored in the refrigerator for 2–3 days in the bowl of water. To use, lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Trim off any thin ragged edges of white if you wish.

Serve poached eggs on toast, alone or on top of a slice of smoked salmon or some sautéed mushrooms. They are also good added to a crisp salad of frisée, cos lettuce or rocket with lightly fried pancetta*, or with spinach leaves (p. 71).

Quails’ eggs can be poached in 1–1½ minutes.

Poached eggs with fines herbes

This very good and very simple dish is Elizabeth David’s, from French Country Cooking.

For 2

40g butter

4 poached eggs or oeufs mollets (p. 50)

2 tbs chopped herbs (parsley, chives and tarragon)

squeeze of lemon juice

Melt the butter in a small shallow pan, put in the eggs and sauté them without letting the butter burn. Sprinkle in the herbs and a squeeze of lemon juice and eat immediately. The process only takes about 2 minutes, provided that the eggs are prepared beforehand and the herbs ready chopped.

Eggs benedict

An American brunch favourite that is rich and satisfying. Serve it alone or with asparagus or green peas.

For 4

4 slices bread or 2 English muffins halved

butter

4 slices cooked ham

4 poached eggs or oeufs mollets (p. 50)

8 tbs hollandaise sauce (p. 373)

Toast the bread or muffins lightly and butter them. Warm the slices of ham and put them on the toast. Set the eggs on the ham and coat each one with 2 tbs hollandaise.

Poached eggs with spinach

For 2

500g spinach

25g butter

salt, freshly ground pepper and nutmeg

4 poached eggs or oeufs mollets (p. 50)

8 tbs double cream

grated Parmesan (optional)

Remove any big stalks from the spinach, wash thoroughly and put it into a large pan with just the water that clings to the leaves from washing. Turn over heat until it is all softened, and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Drain and squeeze out all the moisture in your fist. Chop the spinach. Melt 20g butter and toss the spinach in it until any excess moisture has evaporated. Season.

Butter two ramekins or small ovenproof dishes, each large enough to hold 2 eggs and spread a layer of spinach in each one. Make 2 hollows in each bed of spinach and put in the eggs. Spoon over the cream, and sprinkle with Parmesan if you wish. Put the dishes under a preheated grill until the cream is bubbling and lightly browned.

Variation

• Use mornay sauce (p. 371) instead of the cream.

Poached eggs with lentils and lardons

For 4

250g lentils, preferably Puy or Castelluccio (p. 140)

2 bay leaves

100ml olive oil

3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

1 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves

salt and freshly ground pepper

100g streaky bacon

4 poached eggs

2 tsp wine vinegar

Wash the lentils and cook them in 450ml water with the bay leaves. Whilst they are cooking, heat 80ml oil in a wide pan and gently stew the tomatoes and garlic. Season with the thyme, salt and pepper, and cover. When the lentils are cooked through, season them, drain any water that has not been absorbed and remove the bay leaves. Add them to the tomato mixture. Cut the bacon into lardons* and fry in the remaining oil. Make 4 hollows in the lentils and put in the poached eggs. Cover and allow them to heat through, about 3–4 minutes. When the eggs are ready, scatter over the lardons, add the vinegar to the frying pan, swish it around, then pour over the eggs and lentils and serve from the pan.

Baked eggs

Eggs can be baked in lightly buttered individual ramekins or even in ovenproof cups standing in a bain-marie*. They can be baked as they are, but a little cream will stop them becoming dry. A tablespoon or two of another flavouring – finely diced cooked bacon, spinach purée, thinly sliced sautéed mushrooms, flaked smoked fish, peeled, seeded and chopped tomato, chopped fresh herbs – makes a pleasant variation. Put the flavouring in the bottom of each ramekin, season, then break the egg on top. Add a tablespoon of cream and put the ramekins into a bain-marie of hot water to come half to two-thirds of the way up the sides. If you don’t use cream, cover the ramekins with foil to stop the eggs drying. Set the pan over low heat and maintain the water at a steady simmer. Alternatively, put the bain-marie in a preheated oven, 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. In either case it will take 6–8 minutes; the whites should be just set while the yolks remain soft. Don’t overcook: the eggs will go on cooking for a minute or two after being removed from the heat.

Another method is to bake eggs sur le plat in shallow gratin dishes with a more substantial garnish. Butter each dish, add cooked and chopped or sliced vegetables, meat or fish, season and break the egg into a hollow in the centre of the other ingredients. Season, add cream, or a tiny knob of butter, and bake in a preheated oven, 180°C, 350°F, gas 4, for 6–8 minutes.

Eggs baked in tomatoes

For 6

6 large ripe tomatoes

50g butter

2 tbs chopped tarragon

6 eggs

salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat the oven to 200°C, 400°F, gas 6. Cut a slice from the top of each tomato and reserve these; scoop out the seeds and core. Turn the tomatoes upside down to drain for a few minutes if they appear watery. Using half the butter, put some into each of the tomatoes, and add the tarragon. Break an egg into each tomato, season with salt and pepper and replace the lid. Use the remaining butter to grease a baking dish just large enough to hold the tomatoes. Stand the tomatoes in the dish, cover with a lid or foil and bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes, until the eggs are cooked.

Chakchouka

This dish of baked eggs and vegetables comes from Tunisia. A good supper dish, it can be made more substantial with the addition of 4 sliced merguez sausages at the same time as the onions.

For 4

4 tbs olive oil

2 onions, peeled and finely sliced

2 red peppers, peeled (p. 157), seeded and chopped

4 tomatoes, chopped

2 small potatoes, peeled and diced

1–2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

100ml water

salt and freshly ground pepper

4 eggs

Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan or other shallow pan and fry the onion until it has softened. Add the remaining vegetables and 100ml water; season. Cover the pan. Simmer for about 25 minutes, until everything has softened. If the mixture is too liquid, simmer for a little longer without the lid.

Make 4 hollows in the vegetable mixture and break an egg into each one. Cover again and cook until the eggs are set, about 4 minutes.

Fried eggs

Fry eggs in butter, olive oil or bacon fat and be sure to keep the heat low or the white will be crisp and dry around the outside before the yolk has barely heated through. Break the eggs into the pan once the fat is hot and baste so that the eggs cook on top as well as underneath. Covering the pan with a lid for about 1 minute will set the white around the yolks. The eggs are ready when the underside of the whites is lightly browned, the top set and the yolks moist and shiny.

Scrambled eggs

Scrambled eggs need care and time to cook them slowly to an even creamy consistency. They should not be stringy and lumpy nor only partly set. Use a pan with a heavy base or, if you prefer, stand your pan in a bain-marie*. Butter the pan generously, beat the required number of eggs gently and season them. Put them into the pan with another 7g of diced butter for each egg and stir continuously over very low heat. Scrape the base and sides of the pan since this is where the eggs cook first. When the mixture begins to thicken and turn creamy, remove the pan from the heat and continue stirring. The residual heat will cook the eggs to a soft consistency. Serve at once on warm plates.

Scrambled eggs can be varied with the addition of small amounts of chopped herbs (chervil, tarragon, and parsley all go well with scrambled egg), cooked vegetables (asparagus tips, sliced mushrooms, small broccoli florets), crumbled crisp bacon, diced ham, slivers of smoked salmon or poached and flaked smoked haddock. The most delicious (and most expensive) flavouring is a sliced black truffle, which should be added to the beaten eggs an hour or so before cooking so that the flavour permeates the eggs thoroughly.

Scrambled eggs with chicken livers

For 4

8 chicken livers

60g butter

splash of Worcestershire sauce

salt and freshly ground pepper

4 eggs

1 tbs chopped parsley

Trim any green or stringy bits from the livers, cut them into pieces and fry gently in half the butter, with a splash of Worcestershire sauce, for about 2 minutes. Season and keep them warm. Add the remaining butter to the pan and scramble the eggs, see p. 55. Put the livers in the centre of a serving dish and put the eggs around them and a little chopped parsley over the top.

Spiced scrambled eggs

In India this is served for breakfast with chapattis, puris or dosas, and very good it is too. But if you find it too daunting, even for brunch, try it for supper.

For 4

2 tbs sunflower oil or ghee*

2 small onions, peeled and chopped finely

2 green chillies, seeded and chopped

2cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated

3 tomatoes, chopped

½ tsp ground cumin

salt

4 eggs

1 tbs chopped coriander leaves

½ tsp turmeric

Heat the oil or ghee in a deep frying pan or sauté pan and fry the onion, chillies and ginger for about 5 minutes, until the onion has softened and is turning golden. Add the chopped tomatoes and season with cumin and salt. Stir and cook until the juice from the tomatoes is absorbed. Break the eggs into a bowl and add the coriander and turmeric. Tip the eggs into the pan and stir constantly over moderate to low heat until the eggs are just set – it will take a minute or so, no more. If you haven’t got Indian breads, serve with toast.

Pipérade

This is based on Boulestin’s recipe from What Shall We Have Today? He observes that some people make it like scrambled egg, others like omelette, but that neither is correct. The dish should have the appearance of a frothy purée in which it is hard to determine which is vegetable and which is egg.

For 4

2 large red peppers

2 large green peppers

3 tbs olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

4 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped

salt and freshly ground pepper

4 eggs

Seed the peppers and slice them. Heat the oil and gently stew the peppers. When they have softened, add the garlic and tomatoes and season. Let the vegetables simmer until they become a purée, then break in the eggs, one by one, without beating them. Stir quickly over the heat until the eggs are cooked and serve at once.

Omelettes

Folded or rolled omelettes

A good folded omelette depends on having a heated and properly seasoned or non-stick pan, fresh eggs, butter and any flavouring you choose prepared and to hand, and it will be ready in less than 2 minutes.

An omelette pan must have a heavy base so that it will cook the egg evenly. If your pan is not non-stick, season it before using for the first time. Pour in 1½cm oil, heat the pan until the oil starts to smoke, then pour it away. Let the pan cool a little then wipe it dry with kitchen paper. Once seasoned, a pan should never be washed but wiped clean with kitchen paper while still warm. The pan must be scrupulously clean and dry before cooking begins.

The size of the pan is important in relation to the number of eggs: an 18–20cm pan will make a 2-egg omelette for 1 person, a 23cm pan a 4-egg omelette for 2. It is best to make small folded omelettes rather than attempt anything larger, because it is tricky to get the cooking right to achieve a lightly set edge and bottom, and a moist, creamy centre.

Beat the eggs lightly, just enough to combine yolks and whites, not to make them frothy. Season, and add any light flavouring such as chopped herbs or finely diced ham. Heat the omelette pan briefly over fairly high heat, add the butter and when it has melted, tilt the pan so all of the base is covered. When the butter stops foaming and starts to smell nutty, pour in the eggs. Stir the eggs with the flat back of a fork and shake the pan gently by the handle. As soon as the base begins to set – it takes about 30 seconds – lift the edges of the omelette with the fork and tilt the pan so that any runny egg goes underneath. Cook for a few seconds more; the top may be runny or lightly set, as you wish.

To fold the omelette, tilt the pan away from you and, with the fork, fold the edge nearest to you into the centre. Lift the further edge with the fork and flip it over the rest of the omelette, then slide it out onto a warm plate.

A filling that will complement the flavour of the eggs rather than override it can be added just before the omelette is folded. Put 2–3 tbs down the centre of the omelette so the filling will be enclosed when the omelette is folded. Grated cheese, peeled, seeded and chopped tomato, sautéed sliced mushrooms, shredded sorrel leaves softened in butter, cooked asparagus tips, cooked small peas, crumbled crisp bacon, diced smoked salmon all make suitable fillings.

Soufflé omelettes

Soufflé omelettes are usually served as desserts. Separate the yolks and whites, beat the yolks well with sugar or seasonings and whisk the whites to peaks. Stir a spoonful of the whites into the yolks and fold in the rest (p. 49). Make the omelette in the same way as a folded omelette, but cook over more gentle heat and spread the mixture evenly through the pan. Shake the pan from time to time. When the bottom is lightly browned, put the pan under the preheated grill for 1–2 minutes to brown the top, or into a preheated oven (190°C, 375°F, gas 5) for 4–5 minutes. You can of course continue cooking on the stove, but the top will not brown. Serve the omelette flat or folded once.

Fillings should be light. Cheese or herbs are suitable for savoury omelettes; for sweet omelettes use jam or fruit such as stoned cherries heated briefly in a little cream or a sliced apple sautéed in butter.

Flat omelettes

The frittate of Italy and the tortillas of Spain are less delicate fare in which the egg acts as a binding agent for the other ingredients. The eggahs of the Arab world and kookoos of Iran are more substantial still. Flat omelettes have a high proportion of filling to egg; vegetables are the most common filling, sometimes combined with cooked meats.

Flat omelettes are usually served in wedges like a cake and most are successful at room temperature as well as hot. Cook the ingredients for the filling and stir them into the beaten eggs and start cooking in a hot pan as for a folded omelette. Smooth the top of the mixture, cover with a lid, reduce the heat and cook for 3–4 minutes until the top is beginning to set. To set it further, the easiest method is to slide the pan under a hot grill for a minute. Alternatively, hold a plate upside down over the pan, tip the omelette onto it and return it to the pan upside down to finish cooking.

Omelette aux fines herbes

For 1

2 eggs

1 tbs finely chopped and very fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, chives and a little tarragon)

salt and freshly ground pepper

20g butter

Break the eggs into a shallow bowl, add the herbs and season. Heat a small frying pan, see opposite, add the butter and tilt the pan to coat the base and sides. Beat the eggs just enough to mix yolks and whites, pour them into the pan and cook and fold the omelette as described above. It will only take about 1 minute. Serve straight away on a warm plate.

Middle Eastern omelette with herbs

This dish is something between a tortilla and a gratin, and can be cooked on top of the stove or in the oven. It is called an eggah in Arab countries, a kookoo in Iran. Cooked vegetables, meat or fish all make suitable fillings.

For 4–6

200g flat-leaf parsley

200g dill

100g coriander

small bunch chives

3–4 lettuce leaves

4 spring onions, chopped

3 tbs chopped walnuts

6 eggs

2 tsp plain flour and 1 tsp baking powder, or 2 tsp self-raising flour

salt and freshly ground pepper

3 tbs oil

If you intend to bake the omelette, heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Remove and discard the big stalks from the parsley, dill and coriander and chop these herbs with the chives and lettuce. Add the spring onions and walnuts. Beat the eggs with the flour (and baking powder if using), and season well. Stir the herb mixture into the eggs. Heat the oil in a shallow ovenproof dish, making sure to coat it well, pour in the mixture and bake for 45–50 minutes, until the omelette is golden brown.

Alternatively, heat the oil in a frying pan, coating it well on the base and sides, pour in the mixture, cover and cook over low heat for about 25 minutes. Turn the omelette by reversing it onto a plate held over the pan, and cook the other side for 10–15 minutes, uncovered.

Serve hot or at room temperature, with bread and a bowl of yogurt.

Leek frittata

For 4–6

4 medium leeks

3 tbs olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper

6 eggs

2 tbs chopped tarragon

2 tbs grated Parmesan (optional)

Remove the outer layers of the leeks, and use only the white and pale green part, after washing them well. Cut them into thin slices and stew gently in the oil until soft. Season with salt and pepper. Beat the eggs lightly and add the tarragon and Parmesan if you are using it. Pour the eggs over the leeks and cook over moderate to low heat until the bottom and edges of the frittata are lightly browned. Put the pan under a hot grill to brown the top a little. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut in wedges.

Variations

Instead of the 4 leeks:

• Use 2 leeks and 250g chopped wilted spinach, and parsley instead of tarragon.

• Use 300g sliced mushrooms, 2 peeled and chopped shallots and 2 tbs chopped parsley.

• Use 250g thinly sliced courgettes, 2 peeled and chopped shallots and 2 tbs chopped mint.

• Use 1 small chopped onion, 1 shredded fennel bulb, and 6og diced ham.

Potato and onion tortilla

For 4

3 large potatoes, peeled

1 large onion, peeled

3 tbs olive oil

4 eggs

salt and freshly ground pepper

Cut the potatoes into small dice and chop the onion finely. Heat the oil in a frying pan, preferably non-stick, and gently sauté the potatoes. Shake and stir the pan regularly, turning the potatoes. They will take about 25 minutes to cook, and should turn golden, but not brown. Add the onion for the last 6–8 minutes, it may burn if put in earlier. Beat the eggs lightly and season with salt and pepper.

Remove the pan from the heat, lift the potatoes and onion out and stir them into the eggs. If there is not enough oil in the pan to fry the omelette add 1 tbs more. When it is hot, pour in the egg mixture, spreading it evenly with a spatula. Shake the pan to ensure the tortilla does not stick to it. When the bottom of the tortilla is golden, reverse it onto a plate held over the pan, and slide it back upside down to cook the other side. Again, if necessary, add a little more oil to the pan.

Serve hot or at room temperature, cut in wedges, with a plate of olives or a salad, or cut into smaller pieces to serve with drinks.

Variations

• Instead of the potatoes and onion, use 3 peeled, seeded and diced tomatoes, 3 red peppers, skinned (p. 151) and sliced, and 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped.

• Replace 2 of the potatoes and the onion with 100g sliced chorizo and a sliced chilli.

Soufflés

Soufflés are a blend of a well-flavoured sauce or purée to which first yolks are added then stiffly beaten egg whites. The air trapped in the whites expands during cooking to give the soufflé its light texture and to push the top of the soufflé above the dish. Soufflés use more egg whites than yolks to ensure the necessary expansion is achieved. However, don’t overwhisk the whites or the soufflé won’t rise. The base can be made in advance, but the whites should be whisked and folded in (p. 49) just before cooking.

Use a straight-sided dish, either a porcelain or glass soufflé dish or a casserole, and fill it three-quarters full with the soufflé mixture so that it will rise above the rim. A 1.4-litre soufflé dish will hold a mixture made with 4–5 whites, a 2-litre dish one made with 6–7 whites. Bake on the middle rack in a preheated oven to give the soufflé room to rise. Avoid opening the door during cooking, but if you need to, do it gently to avoid draughts.

Oven temperature affects the consistency of the soufflé. A large soufflé baked in a moderate (190°C, 375°F, gas 5) oven takes 30–40 minutes. For a firm consistency cook at a lower temperature and increase the time; for a soft centre increase the temperature and decrease the cooking time. Don’t overcook the soufflé or it will shrink and the outside will become leathery.

It is ready when it is risen, browned lightly and slightly wobbly on top. If you are not sure, insert a thin flat skewer or knife in the centre; if it comes out clean, the soufflé is ready. Once baked, the soufflé ideally should be served at once, but it will not come to serious harm if it has to wait for up to 10 minutes, in which case, turn off the oven and leave it inside.

Cheese soufflé

Just about any cheese is suitable for making a soufflé, so choose your favourite.

For 4

50g butter

50g plain flour

300ml milk, heated

salt and freshly ground pepper

grated nutmeg

4 egg yolks

125g grated cheese

5 egg whites

Heat the oven to 190°C, 375°F, gas 5. Melt the butter in a heavy pan and stir in the flour, blending well. Pour in the hot milk, a little at a time and away from the heat, whisking continuously to achieve a smooth mixture. Return the pan to the heat and stir for a few minutes, until it thickens. Season and leave to cool a little. Beat in the yolks, one at a time, and then add all but 1 tbs of the cheese.

Butter a 1.4-litre soufflé dish. Whisk the whites with a pinch of salt until they form peaks, stir a large spoonful into the cheese mixture, then fold in the rest (p. 49). Pour the mixture into the dish – it should be about three-quarters full – and sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Bake for 35–40 minutes, until the soufflé is well risen and lightly browned.

Spinach soufflé

For 6

500g fresh spinach or 300g frozen

50g butter

1 small onion, peeled and chopped finely

300ml milk

50g plain flour

salt

¼ tsp paprika

grated nutmeg

5 egg yolks

6 egg whites

Heat the oven to 190°C, 375°F, gas 5. Remove large stalks from fresh spinach, wash the leaves well and put them into a large pan with just the water that clings after washing. Turn over heat until it is all softened, and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Drain. Cook frozen spinach according to the instructions on the label and drain. Squeeze the spinach in your fist to remove excess water and chop.

Heat the butter and stew the onion slowly until softened. Heat the milk in a separate pan. Stir the flour into the butter and onion, and blend. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually whisk in the milk. When the mixture is smooth, return the pan to a low heat, add the spinach and stir for a few minutes until the mixture thickens. Season with salt, paprika and nutmeg. Remove the pan from the heat again and when the sauce has cooled somewhat, beat in the egg yolks one at a time. Butter a 2-litre soufflé dish. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff, stir a large spoonful into the spinach mixture to loosen it, then fold in the rest (p. 49). Turn the mixture into the dish and bake for 40–45 minutes. The soufflé should be well risen and golden brown.

Variation

Mushroom soufflé Replace the spinach by 350g finely sliced mushrooms and sauté them with the onion before stirring in the flour.

Courgette soufflés with tomato sauce

For 6

350g courgettes, grated

salt and freshly ground pepper

2 shallots, peeled and chopped finely

50g butter

30g plain flour

150ml milk

½ tsp crushed fennel seeds or aniseed

4 egg yolks

5 egg whites

6 eggs

tomato sauce (p. 378–9)

Arrange the grated courgettes in layers in a colander, sprinkling each layer with salt, and leave to stand for 30 minutes. Next squeeze them repeatedly with your hands to get rid of all excess moisture. Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4.

Sauté the shallots in the butter until pale golden, add the courgettes, tossing and stirring the mixture until it is well dried and lightly coloured. Sprinkle over the flour and stir it in. Remove the pan from the heat. Heat the milk in another pan and gradually pour it into the courgette mixture, whisking well. Season with pepper, crushed fennel or anise and a little salt. When the mixture is smooth return the pan to the heat and stir until it thickens. Remove the pan from the heat again, then beat in the egg yolks one by one. Butter 6 individual ramekins. Whisk the egg whites, with a pinch of salt, to peaks; stir a spoonful into the courgette mixture to loosen it, fold in the remainder (p. 49).

Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, filling them two-thirds full. Bake for 12–14 minutes, until risen, golden and firm. Run a knife around the soufflés to loosen them and turn them out onto warmed plates on which you have spooned some of the hot tomato sauce. Serve at once.

Twice-baked cheese soufflés

This recipe comes from Richard Olney’s French Menu Cookbook.

For 6

250ml milk

40g plain flour

salt and freshly ground pepper

grated nutmeg

30g butter, cut into small pieces

100g grated Parmesan

3 egg yolks

2 egg whites

350ml double cream

Heat the oven to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4. Bring the milk to the boil, leave until lukewarm then pour it over the flour, whisking to avoid lumps forming. Season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg to taste. Whisking constantly, stir over moderate heat until the mixture thickens. Let it cool, then add the butter, two-thirds of the cheese and the egg yolks. Mix thoroughly. Butter 6 individual ramekins. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff. Stir a large spoonful into the cheese mixture and gently fold in the rest (p. 49). Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, until two-thirds full, place them in a large ovenproof dish and pour enough hot, but not boiling, water into the dish to immerse the ramekins by two-thirds. Poach in the oven for about 20 minutes, until firm and spongy to the touch. Unmould the soufflés after running a knife around the edges to loosen them. If you wish, the dish can be prepared in advance to this point.

Butter a shallow baking dish that will hold the soufflés side by side, but not touching. Pour over enough cream to immerse them by half, sprinkle over the rest of the cheese and return to the oven for 15–20 minutes. Almost all the cream will have been absorbed and a light golden gratin formed. Serve at once.

Quiches

Open tarts with a variety of fillings are sold as quiches, but the real thing contains only eggs, cream and bacon and originates from the French province of Lorraine. In other parts of France, similar tarts are made with Parmesan or Gruyère cheese, with soft white cheese and spring onions, or with onions alone.

A tart is not a receptacle for all the leftovers in the refrigerator, but very good tarts can be made using one main ingredient with the eggs and cream. Vegetables such as asparagus, mushrooms, spinach and chicory work well; crab makes a superb tart and smoked salmon can be used as an alternative to the bacon in the original.

In Alsace and Lorraine egg and cream tarts are also made with fruit fillings.

Quiche lorraine

For 6

250g smoked streaky bacon

shortcrust pastry for a 28cm tin, baked blind (pp. 490–1)

400ml double cream or crème fraîche

2 eggs

2 egg yolks

salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat the oven to 190°C, 375°F, gas 5. Cut the bacon into strips and fry them gently in their own fat in a small pan. Arrange the pieces in the pastry case. Beat the cream and whole eggs and yolks together and season, bearing in mind that the bacon will be salty. Pour the mixture into the tart and bake for 25–30 minutes until it is puffed and golden. Let it rest for a few minutes after taking it from the oven: it will be easier to cut.

Variation

Quiche with fromage frais This is Elizabeth David’s version. Use a 22cm tart shell that has been baked blind, and for the filling 250g smoked streaky bacon, 125g fromage frais, young goat’s cheese or cream cheese, with 150ml double cream, 3 egg yolks and 1 whole egg. Fry and arrange the bacon as above. Whiz the other ingredients in the food processor until smooth before pouring the mixture into the tart shell. Bake at 200°C, 400°F, gas 6, for 20 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180°C, 350°F, gas 4, for another 10 minutes.

Eggs and cheese