CHAPTER 6

PASTA

Penne with Fresh Tomato Sauce, Spinach, and Feta

Fusilli with Zucchini, Tomatoes, and Pine Nuts

Fusilli with Skillet-Roasted Cauliflower, Garlic, and Walnuts

Pasta alla Norma with Olives and Capers

Penne with Butternut Squash and Sage

Spaghetti with Spinach, Beans, Tomatoes, and Garlic Chips

Linguine with Meatless “Meat” Sauce

Pasta with Kale Pesto, Tomatoes, and Chicken

Penne with Chicken and Pan-Roasted Broccoli

Lemony Penne with Chicken, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Artichokes

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage

Spaghetti and Meatballs

Rigatoni with Turkey Ragu

Spinach Lasagna

Turkey and Cheese Lasagna

Noodles with Mustard Greens and Shiitake-Ginger Sauce

Peanut Noodle Salad

 

Penne with Fresh Tomato Sauce, Spinach, and Feta

A few robust ingredients give our fresh tomato sauce plenty of flavor in a short amount of time.

Penne with Fresh Tomato Sauce, Spinach, and Feta

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a quick but complex tomato sauce that didn’t rely on canned tomatoes, we looked to Greece for inspiration. Mint and feta paired well with fresh tomatoes, and baby spinach added savory depth. The success of this recipe depends on ripe, in-season tomatoes. The skillet will be quite full when stirring in the spinach in step 1 (stir gently to start), but will become more manageable as the spinach wilts. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the penne, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces

5 ounces (5 cups) baby spinach

8 ounces (2¼ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat penne

Salt and pepper

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 cup)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or oregano

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1. Cook oil and garlic in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic turns golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and cook until they begin to lose their shape, about 8 minutes. Stir in spinach, 1 handful at a time, and cook until spinach is wilted and tomatoes have made chunky sauce, 2 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

3. Stir ¾ cup feta, mint, lemon juice, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper into sauce. Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine. Season with pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup feta and serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 390 • Total Fat 15g • Sat Fat 5g • Chol 25mg

Sodium 420mg • Total Carbs 50g • Fiber 11g • Total Sugar 10g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 15g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

1. Cut out stem and core of each tomato, then score small X at base.

2. Lower tomatoes into boiling water and simmer until skins loosen, 30 to 60 seconds.

3. Use paring knife to remove strips of loosened skin starting at X at base of each tomato.

Fusilli with Zucchini, Tomatoes, and Pine Nuts

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The combination of pasta and summer squash results in a light, flavorful dish that’s full of color. Because summer squash contains so much liquid, we salted and drained it to keep our sauce from ending up watery. The skin helps to keep the squash pieces intact. The lightly salted squash also browned beautifully; just 5 minutes in a hot skillet provided a nice char and plenty of extra flavor. To accompany the squash, we chose halved grape tomatoes, fresh basil, and pine nuts and then finished the sauce with balsamic vinegar. A combination of zucchini and summer squash makes for a more colorful dish, but either may be used exclusively if desired. Cherry tomatoes can be substituted for the grape tomatoes. We prefer using kosher salt because residual grains can be easily wiped away from the squash; if using table salt, be sure to reduce all of the salt amounts in the recipe by half. For a milder dish, use the smaller amount of red pepper flakes. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the fusilli, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

2 pounds zucchini and/or summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced ½ inch thick

Kosher salt and pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

⅛–½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

12 ounces (4½ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat fusilli

12 ounces grape tomatoes, halved

½ cup chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

¼ cup pine nuts, toasted

1. Toss squash with 1 tablespoon salt in colander and let drain for 30 minutes. Pat squash dry with paper towels and carefully wipe away any residual salt.

2. Heat ½ tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of squash and cook, turning once, until golden brown and slightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes, reducing heat if squash begins to scorch; transfer to large plate. Repeat with ½ tablespoon oil and remaining squash; transfer to plate.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in squash and cook until heated through, about 30 seconds.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 2 teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add squash mixture, tomatoes, basil, vinegar, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with Parmesan and pine nuts.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 340 • Total Fat 14g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 220mg • Total Carbs 44g • Fiber 8g • Total Sugar 7g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 12g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

Fusilli with Skillet-Roasted Cauliflower, Garlic, and Walnuts

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When done right, careful control of heat can transform cauliflower from a mild-mannered vegetable to an intensely flavored, sweet, and nutty foil for pasta. Cutting the cauliflower into small florets created plenty of exposed surface area to maximize flavorful browning and caramelization. Starting the cauliflower in a cold covered pan allowed the florets to gradually steam in their own moisture before we removed the lid and let them turn golden brown. We found that cream-based sauces muted the nutty cauliflower flavor so we focused on a simple lemony dressing, using both lemon juice for brightness and zest to bolster its flavor without making the dish overly acidic. We rounded out the sauce with fresh parsley and some Parmesan and topped each serving with toasted walnuts to add a pleasing crunch. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the fusilli, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cored and cut into ½-inch florets

Salt and pepper

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1–2 tablespoons juice

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

12 ounces (4½ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat fusilli

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse

1. Combine 2 tablespoons oil and cauliflower florets in 12-inch nonstick skillet and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cover skillet and cook over medium-high heat until florets start to brown and edges just start to become translucent (do not lift lid), about 5 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until florets turn golden brown in many spots, about 12 minutes.

2. Push cauliflower to sides of skillet. Add 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, lemon zest, and pepper flakes to center and cook, stirring with rubber spatula, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into cauliflower and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is tender but still firm, about 3 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

4. Add cauliflower mixture, ¼ cup Parmesan, parsley, ½ cup reserved cooking water, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pasta and toss to combine. Season with extra lemon juice to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with walnuts and remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 360 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 390mg • Total Carbs 44g • Fiber 10g • Total Sugar 4g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 13g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

To remind yourself to reserve pasta water, place measuring cup in colander in sink before cooking pasta.

 

Pasta alla Norma with Olives and Capers

Lightly salting and microwaving eggplant draws out moisture and helps it brown without absorbing too much oil.

Pasta alla Norma with Olives and Capers

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its lively combination of tender eggplant, robust sauce, al dente pasta, and milky ricotta salata, pasta alla Norma sings with each bite—appropriate, given that it was named for the title character of an opera. For our version, we microwaved salted eggplant on coffee filters to draw out its moisture, which collapsed the air pockets in the eggplant so less oil would be absorbed, before browning. A secret ingredient, anchovies, gave our tomato sauce a deep, savory flavor without any fishiness. Although not traditional, capers and chopped kalamatas provided potency without tipping the salt into unhealthy territory. Finally, ricotta salata added a bit of tang. If you can’t find ricotta salata you can substitute French feta, Pecorino Romano, or Cotija (a firm, crumbly Mexican cheese). We prefer to use kosher salt in this recipe because it clings best to the eggplant in step 1; if using table salt, reduce salt amounts by half. To give this dish a little extra kick, add additional pepper flakes. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the rigatoni, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

pounds eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces

Kosher salt and pepper

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (28-ounce) can no-salt-added crushed tomatoes

½ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped coarse

6 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed

12 ounces (3⅓ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat rigatoni

2 ounces ricotta salata, shredded (½ cup)

1. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Toss eggplant with ½ teaspoon salt, then spread out over coffee filters. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing halfway through cooking. Let cool slightly.

2. Transfer eggplant to large bowl, drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, and gently toss to coat. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned and fully tender, about 10 minutes; transfer to clean plate.

3. Let skillet cool slightly, about 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, anchovies, and pepper flakes to now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is lightly golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes, increase heat to medium-high, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is heated through and flavors meld, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in olives, parsley, capers, and remaining ½ tablespoon oil.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 2 teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve with ricotta salata.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 370 • Total Fat 13g • Sat Fat 2.5g • Chol 10mg

Sodium 440mg • Total Carbs 50g • Fiber 12g • Total Sugar 9g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 12g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Penne with Butternut Squash and Sage

Just a bit of mascarpone cheese stirred in toward the end of cooking provides this hearty pasta dish with rich creaminess.

Penne with Butternut Squash and Sage

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted a pasta dish that put butternut squash center stage. Sautéing the squash first amplified its mild flavor and ensured that it took on rich, caramelized flavor that fit well with hearty whole-wheat penne. We then built a sauce in the same pan we used to brown the squash, and after a short braise we had perfectly cooked and deeply flavorful squash with a silky texture. A modest amount of mascarpone gave the sauce a velvety texture, and scallions provided a pungent note that contrasted nicely with the sweet earthiness of the squash. A final sprinkling of sliced almonds added a crunch of protein. Fresh sage is a natural pairing with squash, and crucial to the flavor of this dish; do not substitute dried sage. You can substitute cream cheese for the mascarpone. When simmering the squash in step 3, do not stir too frequently or the squash will begin to fall apart. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the penne, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces (2½ cups)

1 small head radicchio (6 ounces), halved, cored, and sliced thin

6 scallions, sliced thin

3 garlic cloves, minced

teaspoon ground nutmeg

Salt and pepper

¾ cup dry white wine

cups unsalted chicken broth

2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) mascarpone cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh sage

1 tablespoon lemon juice

12 ounces (3½ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat penne

¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add squash and cook, stirring frequently, until spotty brown, 10 to 15 minutes; transfer to bowl. Add radicchio and 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until wilted and beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl.

2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, scallions, garlic, nutmeg, and ½ teaspoon salt to now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat until scallions are softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until reduced by half, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in broth and squash and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook until squash is tender and sauce has thickened slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Off heat, gently stir in ½ cup Parmesan, mascarpone, sage, and lemon juice.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add squash mixture and radicchio and gently toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with almonds and remaining ½ cup Parmesan. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 390 • Total Fat 15g • Sat Fat 3.5g • Chol 15mg

Sodium 440mg • Total Carbs 48g • Fiber 9g • Total Sugar 4g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 14g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Spaghetti with Spinach, Beans, Tomatoes, and Garlic Chips

This rustic dish gets its fiber and protein from whole-wheat pasta, curly spinach, and creamy cannellini beans.

Spaghetti with Spinach, Beans, Tomatoes, and Garlic Chips

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Whole-wheat pasta, hearty greens, and savory beans are humble ingredients on their own; when combined, they make a rustic, full-flavored Italian dish. We wanted to retain the complex flavor of this satisfying dish but make it an easy and quick midweek meal. To start, we opted to use spinach, as it requires only a quick braise. This meant that we could easily infuse it with aromatic flavors like onion, garlic, spicy red pepper flakes, and chicken broth. The spinach, beans, and sauce had to cook with the pasta for only a few minutes to blend harmoniously. Whole-wheat pasta stood up to the bold flavors of the sauce and complemented the earthiness of the greens. To brighten up our dish we added diced tomatoes, and for a salty bite, chopped kalamata olives and grated Parmesan cheese. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount of pepper flakes.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 garlic cloves, peeled (5 sliced thin lengthwise, 3 minced)

1 onion, chopped fine

¼–½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

pounds curly spinach, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

¾ cup unsalted chicken broth

1 (14.5-ounce) can no-salt-added diced tomatoes, drained

Salt and pepper

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt-added cannellini beans, rinsed

¾ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped coarse

12 ounces 100 percent whole-wheat spaghetti

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

1. Cook oil and sliced garlic in 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic turns golden but not brown, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer garlic to paper towel–lined plate; set aside.

2. Add onion to oil left in pan and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in minced garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add half of spinach and cook, tossing occasionally, until starting to wilt, about 2 minutes. Add remaining spinach, broth, tomatoes, and ⅛ teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium, cover (pan will be very full), and cook, tossing occasionally, until spinach is completely wilted, about 10 minutes (mixture will be somewhat soupy). Off heat, stir in beans and olives.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until just shy of al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add spinach mixture and cook over medium heat, tossing to combine, until pasta absorbs most of liquid, about 2 minutes.

4. Off heat, stir in Parmesan. Season with pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with garlic chips. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 360 • Total Fat 11g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 360mg • Total Carbs 50g • Fiber 11g • Total Sugar 3g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 15g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Cooking Pasta 101

Cooking pasta seems simple, but perfect pasta takes some finesse. Here’s how we do it in the test kitchen.

USE PLENTY OF WATER

To prevent sticking, you’ll need 4 quarts of water to cook up to 1 pound of dried pasta. Pasta leaches starch as it cooks; without plenty of water to dilute it, the starch will coat the noodles and they will stick. Use a pot with at least a 6-quart capacity so that the water won’t boil over.

SALT THE WATER

Adding salt to the pasta cooking water is essential; it seasons and flavors the pasta, allowing you to add only a minimal amount of sodium to the final dish. Add 1 teaspoon of salt per 4 quarts of water. Be sure to add the salt with the pasta, not before, so it will dissolve and not stain the pot.

SKIP THE OIL

Adding oil to cooking water just creates a slick on the surface of the water, doing nothing to prevent pasta from sticking. And when you drain the pasta, the oil prevents the pasta sauce from adhering. To prevent pasta from sticking, simply stir the pasta for a minute or two when you add it to the boiling water, then stir occasionally while it’s cooking.

CHECK OFTEN FOR DONENESS

The instructions given on the box are almost always too long and will result in overcooked pasta. Tasting is the best way to check for doneness. We typically prefer pasta cooked al dente, when it still has a little bite left in the center.

RESERVE SOME WATER

Reserve about ½ cup of cooking water before draining the pasta—the water is flavorful and can loosen a thick sauce.

DON’T RINSE

Drain the pasta in a colander, but don’t rinse the pasta (the exceptions are lasagna noodles [this pagethis page] and the pasta for Peanut Noodle Salad), where we rinse in order to cool down); it washes away starch. Let a little water cling to the cooked pasta to help the sauce adhere.

KEEP IT HOT

If you’re using a large serving bowl for the pasta, place it under the colander while draining the pasta. The hot water heats up the bowl, which keeps the pasta warm longer.

Linguine with Meatless “Meat” Sauce

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to create a vegetarian version of a savory, unctuous tomato-meat sauce. The typical Italian American meat sauce gets most of its savory depth from browning the ground beef. As the beef cooks, it releases juices that reduce and form a flavor-packed fond on the bottom of the pot. By zeroing in on the specific qualities meat brings to a meat sauce, we were able to replicate them in our meatless version. To achieve a deep savory flavor, we browned cremini mushrooms and tomato paste to maximize these sources of umami. Extra-virgin olive oil did double duty, enriching the sauce and helping toast the classic Italian aromatics: garlic, dried oregano, and red pepper flakes. We bulked up the sauce with chopped chickpeas that had been rinsed of their excess starch. To thin the sauce without watering down its flavor, we added vegetable broth. Make sure to rinse the chickpeas after pulsing them in the food processor or the sauce will be too thick.

5 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

1 small onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon dried oregano

teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons no-salt-added tomato paste

1 (14-ounce) can no-salt-added crushed tomatoes

1 cup low-sodium vegetable broth

1 cup no-salt-added canned chickpeas, rinsed

12 ounces 100 percent whole-wheat linguine

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

1. Pulse mushrooms in food processor until chopped into ⅛- to ¼-inch pieces, 7 to 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. (Do not clean workbowl.)

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are browned and fond has formed on bottom of pot, about 8 minutes.

3. While mushrooms cook, pulse onion in food processor until finely chopped, 7 to 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. (Do not clean workbowl.) Transfer onion to pot with mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes in bowl.

4. Add tomato paste to pot and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is rust-colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and push vegetables to sides of pot. Add garlic mixture to center and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and broth; bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer sauce for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

5. While sauce simmers, pulse chickpeas in food processor until chopped into ¼-inch pieces, 5 to 7 pulses. Transfer chickpeas to fine-mesh strainer and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear; drain well. Add chickpeas to pot and simmer until sauce is slightly thickened, about 15 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Stir in 1 tablespoon basil. Sprinkle individual portions with Parmesan and remaining 1 tablespoon basil. Serve.

PER 1-CUP SERVING

Cal 350 • Total Fat 10g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 5mg

Sodium 380mg • Total Carbs 49g • Fiber 9g • Total Sugar 5g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 13g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

All About Parmesan

Produced using traditional methods for the past 800 years in one government-designated area of northern Italy, this hard cow’s-milk cheese has a distinctive buttery, nutty, and slightly sharp taste. We frequently reach for it to sprinkle on top of pasta dishes or to add a rich, salty flavor to sauces, soups, and stews.

BUYING PARMESAN

We love authentic Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano in the test kitchen (note that it is not vegetarian because it is made with animal rennet). To ensure that you’re buying a properly aged cheese, examine the condition of the rind. It should be a few shades darker than the straw-colored interior and should penetrate about ½ inch deep (younger or improperly aged cheeses will have a paler, thinner rind). And closely scrutinize the center of the cheese. Those small white spots found on many samples are actually good things—they signify the presence of calcium phosphate crystals, which are formed only after the cheese has been aged for the proper amount of time.

STORING PARMESAN

We found that the best way to preserve Parmesan’s flavor and texture is to wrap it in parchment paper, then aluminum foil. However, if you have just a small piece of cheese, tossing it in a zipper-lock bag works almost as well; just be sure to squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing the bag.

PARMESAN VERSUS PECORINO ROMANO

Parmesan and Pecorino Romano have similar textures and flavors, and often you’ll see one as an alternative to the other in recipes. We have found that Parmesan and Pecorino Romano generally can be used interchangeably, especially when the amount called for is moderate. However, when Parmesan is called for in larger quantities, stick with the Parmesan, as Pecorino Romano can be fairly pungent.

CAN YOU PREGRATE YOUR OWN PARMESAN?

We’ve never been tempted by tasteless powdered Parmesan cheese. But what about grating your own? We found that tasters were hard-pressed to detect any difference between freshly grated Parmesan and cheese that had been grated and stored for up to three weeks. So go ahead and grate your Parmesan ahead; refrigerate in an airtight container.

 

Pasta with Kale Pesto, Tomatoes, and Chicken

We supercharge traditional pesto by combining kale, spinach, and roasted sunflower seeds along with the basil.

Pasta with Kale Pesto, Tomatoes, and Chicken

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a luscious, creamy, bold-flavored pesto pasta dish that we could feel good about eating, we took a closer look at what goes into a classic pesto. Though we love pine nuts in pesto, we opted for roasted sunflower seeds for a slight twist on the classic. To give our pesto more body, we deviated from traditional basil and added kale and spinach to the mix as well. Sautéed chicken breast and cherry tomatoes gave our dish more bulk and added protein to make it hearty. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the farfalle, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

ounces curly kale, stemmed and chopped (¾ cup)

½ cup fresh basil leaves

½ cup baby spinach

3 tablespoons roasted sunflower seeds

tablespoons water

1 garlic clove, minced

Salt and pepper

¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast, trimmed of all visible fat and cut into 1-inch pieces

12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

12 ounces (4½ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat farfalle

1. Process kale, basil, spinach, sunflower seeds, water, garlic, and ¼ teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly add ¼ cup oil until incorporated. Transfer mixture to bowl, stir in ¼ cup Parmesan, and season with pepper to taste. (Pesto can be refrigerated with plastic wrap pressed flush to surface for up to 3 days.)

2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chicken to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned all over and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add cherry tomatoes to skillet and cook until softened slightly, about 2 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add pesto and chicken-tomato mixture and toss to combine. Season with pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Serve.

PER 1⅓-CUP SERVING

Cal 470 • Total Fat 18g • Sat Fat 3g • Chol 85mg

Sodium 400mg • Total Carbs 39g • Fiber 7g • Total Sugar 3g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 36g Total Carbohydrate Choices 2.5

Penne with Chicken and Pan-Roasted Broccoli

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Often, restaurant versions of pasta with chicken and broccoli are laden with bland sauce that merely covers up the overcooked ingredients. Instead of steaming, we chose to skillet-roast the broccoli, knowing that browning the vegetable would equal a big punch of flavor. We added sliced garlic, lemon zest, fresh thyme, and red pepper flakes for additional layers of aromatic flavor. We browned chunks of boneless, skinless chicken breast and then finished cooking them in our wine- and broth-based sauce. Parmesan cheese and a sprinkling of fresh parsley rounded out the seasoning and added a fresh finish to the dish. Be sure to peel the broccoli stalks completely or they will be tough. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the penne, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound broccoli, florets cut into 1½-inch pieces, stems trimmed, peeled, and cut on bias into ¼-inch-thick slices about 1½ inches long

8 garlic cloves, peeled (4 sliced thin, 4 minced)

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

⅛–¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons water

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed of all visible fat and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 shallots, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups unsalted chicken broth

1 cup dry white wine

12 ounces (3½ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat penne

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add broccoli stems in even layer and cook, without stirring, until browned on bottoms, about 2 minutes. Add florets to skillet and toss to combine; cook, without stirring, until bottom sides of florets just begin to brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

2. Stir in sliced garlic, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, pepper flakes, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water and cover skillet; cook until broccoli is bright green but still crisp, about 2 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until water has evaporated and broccoli is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer broccoli to medium bowl and set aside.

3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add chicken and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned but not fully cooked, about 3 minutes; transfer to separate bowl.

4. Reduce heat to medium, add shallots and ⅛ teaspoon salt to now-empty skillet, and cook until just softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in minced garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

5. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and wine and bring to simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened, about 12 minutes. Return chicken and any accumulated juices to skillet. Cook until chicken is cooked through, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in remaining 2 teaspoons lemon zest.

6. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup of cooking water, drain pasta, then return to pot. Add chicken-sauce mixture, broccoli, Parmesan, and parsley and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 420 • Total Fat 10g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 60mg

Sodium 400mg • Total Carbs 47g • Fiber 9g • Total Sugar 4g

Added Sugars 0g • Protein 30g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Lemony Penne with Chicken, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Artichokes

Frozen artichokes are lower in sodium than canned or marinated ones and are full of fiber.

Lemony Penne with Chicken, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Artichokes

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a light and bright pasta dish, we turned to a Mediterranean-inspired flavor profile of lemon, sun-dried tomatoes, and artichoke hearts. We started by cooking lean chicken breast, which only took a few minutes since it was cut into small pieces. We then built a flavorful sauce by sautéing a base of leeks before adding white wine and chicken broth for extra flavor; garlic and fresh thyme provided an aromatic backdrop. Chewy sun-dried tomatoes were a welcome textural contrast and their rich, sweet flavor stood up well to the whole-wheat pasta. We used convenient frozen artichokes, as they are lower in sodium than canned or marinated varieties. Lemon zest and a full ¼ cup of lemon juice added a citrusy pop, while Parmesan cheese enhanced the dish’s seasoning. Shredded basil was the perfect fresh finish and drove home the summery flavors. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the penne, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed of all visible fat and cut into 1-inch pieces

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups unsalted chicken broth

1 cup dry white wine

9 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed

cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, patted dry and sliced thin

ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup)

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest plus ¼ cup juice (2 lemons)

12 ounces (3½ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat penne

2 tablespoons shredded fresh basil

1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Heat 1½ teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned but not fully cooked, about 3 minutes; transfer to bowl.

2. Add remaining 1½ teaspoons oil to now-empty skillet and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Add leek and ⅛ teaspoon salt and cook until just beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute.

3. Slowly whisk in broth and wine and bring to simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened, about 12 minutes.

4. Return chicken and any accumulated juices to skillet along with artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes. Cook until chicken is cooked through, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in Parmesan and lemon zest and juice.

5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Stir in pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup pasta water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add chicken-sauce mixture and basil and gently toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 430 • Total Fat 9g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 60mg

Sodium 400mg • Total Carbs 51g • Fiber 11g • Total Sugars 4g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 30g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3.5

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Measuring Less Than a Pound of Pasta

It’s easy enough to measure out a pound of pasta, as most packages are sold in this quantity. But in this book, recipes call for less than 1 pound of pasta. Obviously, you can weigh out partial pounds of pasta using a scale or judge by how full the box is, but we think it’s easier to measure shaped pasta using a dry measuring cup, and strand pasta by determining the diameter.

PASTA TYPE

8 OUNCES

12 OUNCES

Elbow Macaroni

1¾ cups

2¾ cups

Rigatoni

2¼ cups

3⅓ cups

Penne

2¼ cups

3½ cups

Orecchiette

2½ cups

3¾ cups

Farfalle, Fusilli, Rotini

3 cups

4½ cups

Medium Shells

3¼ cups

4¾ cups

When 8 ounces of uncooked strand pasta are bunched together into a tight circle, the diameter measures about 1¼ inches. When 12 ounces of uncooked strand pasta are bunched together into a tight circle, the diameter measures about 1½ inches.

 

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage

Lean chicken sausage gives this pasta dish meaty richness and protein without too much fat.

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To create a more nutritionally balanced version of the classic orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, we opted for whole-wheat pasta instead of the classic refined variety, upping the fiber content and making an already hearty meal even more satiating. Just 8 ounces of sausage was plenty to provide meaty, umami flavor without making the dish too rich. Broccoli rabe’s bitterness was balanced out by the sausage, along with a hefty dose of garlic and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Stirring in Parmesan cheese at the end provided a boost of salty flavor without the need to add additional salt. You can substitute Asiago for Parmesan in this recipe. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the orecchiette, but the cup amounts may vary (see chart at left for more information).

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces sweet Italian chicken sausage, casings removed

6 garlic cloves, minced

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch pieces

Salt and pepper

12 ounces (3¾ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat orecchiette

1 ounce Parmesan or Asiago cheese, grated (½ cup)

1. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add sausage, breaking up pieces with wooden spoon, and cook until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds; set skillet aside.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add broccoli rabe and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer broccoli rabe to skillet with sausage.

3. Return water to boil, add pasta, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sausage–broccoli rabe mixture, Parmesan, ⅓ cup reserved cooking water, and ¼ teaspoon salt and toss to combine. Season with pepper to taste and adjust consistency with remaining ⅔ cup reserved cooking water as needed. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 380 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 3.5g • Chol 15mg

Sodium 490mg • Total Carbs 46g • Fiber 7g • Total Sugar 2g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 19g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Spaghetti and Meatballs

We make this classic comfort food leaner by choosing ground turkey instead of traditional, fattier ground meats.

Spaghetti and Meatballs

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The obvious way to cut some of the fat and calories found in meatballs is to swap in ground turkey for the traditional mixture of ground beef, pork, and veal. To ensure the meatballs didn’t dry out, we used an egg yolk and a splash of milk in our panade, with one slice of whole-wheat bread instead of the traditional white. Parmesan cheese provided plenty of saltiness, and utilizing fresh basil both in the meatballs and as a garnish emphasized its fresh flavor. Chilling the meatballs before browning them helped them to stay together during cooking. Whole-wheat spaghetti was the perfect fiber-rich bed for these leaner, crowd-pleasing meatballs. Do not use ground turkey breast here (also labeled 99 percent fat-free) or the meatballs will taste dry and grainy. The meatballs and sauce can be prepared through step 4 and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Thaw (if necessary) and gently reheat in a covered pot over medium-low heat.

MEATBALLS

1 (1¼-ounce) slice 100 percent whole-wheat sandwich bread, crusts removed, torn into pieces

tablespoons 1 percent low-fat milk

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 large egg yolk

2 garlic cloves, minced

Salt and pepper

pounds ground turkey

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

PASTA AND SAUCE

1 onion, chopped fine

Salt

4 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon minced fresh oregano

teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (28-ounce) can no-salt-added crushed tomatoes

1 (14.5-ounce) can no-salt-added diced tomatoes

12 ounces 100 percent whole-wheat spaghetti

3 tablespoons shredded fresh basil

1. FOR THE MEATBALLS Mash bread and milk together in bowl to smooth paste. Stir in Parmesan, basil, egg yolk, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add turkey and combine with hands until mixture is uniformly smooth. Gently form mixture into 1½-inch round meatballs (18 meatballs) and place on large plate. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Brown meatballs on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer meatballs to paper towel–lined plate, leaving fat in skillet.

3. FOR THE PASTA AND SAUCE Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in crushed tomatoes and diced tomatoes with their juices. Bring to simmer, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until sauce has thickened slightly, about 20 minutes.

4. Add meatballs to sauce and bring to simmer. Cover and cook, turning meatballs occasionally, until cooked through, about 10 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

6. Add basil and several large spoonfuls of sauce (without meatballs) to the pasta and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Divide pasta between six individual bowls. Top each bowl with 3 meatballs and additional sauce. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING OF PASTA WITH 3 MEATBALLS

Cal 430 Total Fat 7g • Sat Fat 3g • Chol 80mg

Sodium 490mg Total Carbs 49g • Fiber 10g Total Sugar 9g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 40g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Buying Canned Tomatoes

Since canned tomatoes are processed at the height of freshness, they deliver more flavor than off-season fresh tomatoes. But with all the options at the supermarket, it’s not always clear what you should buy. And to make matters more confusing, canned tomatoes are also quite high in sodium; just ½ cup of canned diced tomatoes can contain around 250 milligrams of sodium. Because we wanted to limit sodium as much as possible in the recipes in this book, we opted for no-salt-added canned tomatoes, just as we do with canned beans (this page) and store-bought broths (this page). Doing so allows us to better control the sodium in our dishes.

 

Rigatoni with Turkey Ragu

To create a meatier sauce using ground turkey, we add umami-rich anchovies and both dried and fresh mushrooms.

Rigatoni with Turkey Ragu

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A classic Bolognese-style sauce uses multiple types of ground and cured meats and often simmers with rich heavy cream, all of which result in a dish with too much saturated fat and sodium. We set out to create a lighter version of Bolognese that was still packed with rich, meaty flavor. We traded the classic ground beef and pork for turkey and added meaty flavor with the addition of a mix of dried porcini and cremini mushrooms. In place of additional salt, we added 2 minced anchovy fillets, which provided a more complex, umami boost of flavor. We simmered our turkey and vegetable base in red wine and milk to lighten up the sauce. Using whole-wheat rigatoni was the final piece of the puzzle; the short, tubular shape made it perfect for grabbing lots of meaty sauce, and the earthy flavor of the pasta stood up to our flavorful sauce. Do not use ground turkey breast here (also labeled 99 percent fat-free) or the turkey will taste dry and grainy. Other 100 percent whole-wheat pasta shapes can be substituted for the rigatoni, but the cup amounts may vary (see this page for more information).

1 onion, chopped coarse

1 carrot, chopped coarse

1 celery rib, chopped coarse

6 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and chopped coarse

1 (28-ounce) can no-salt-added whole peeled tomatoes

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon no-salt-added tomato paste

2 anchovy fillets, minced

1 pound ground turkey

1 cup 1 percent low-fat milk

½ cup dry red wine

12 ounces (3⅓ cups) 100 percent whole-wheat rigatoni

1. Pulse onion, carrot, and celery in food processor until finely chopped, about 10 pulses; transfer to large bowl. Pulse cremini and porcini mushrooms in now-empty processor until finely chopped, about 5 pulses; transfer to bowl with onion mixture.

2. Pulse tomatoes with their juice in now-empty processor until mostly smooth, about 8 pulses. Transfer to separate bowl.

3. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until just shimmering. Add vegetable mixture, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomato paste and anchovies and cook for 1 minute.

4. Stir in turkey and cook, breaking up meat with wooden spoon, until no longer pink and mixture begins to look dry, about 4 minutes. Stir in milk and bring to simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Cook until milk is nearly evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes.

5. Stir in wine and simmer until nearly evaporated, about 10 minutes. Stir in processed tomato mixture and simmer until sauce has thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup of cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 380 • Total Fat 6g • Sat Fat 2g • Chol 35mg

Sodium 390mg • Total Carbs 49g • Fiber 9g • Total Sugar 10g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 32g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Spinach Lasagna

Using olive oil and milk in the creamy white sauce for spinach lasagna cuts down on saturated fat.

Spinach Lasagna

SERVES 12

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Classic spinach lasagna, with its rich béchamel sauce and layers of melted cheese, can pack more calories and fat than traditional lasagna with a tomato-based meat sauce. We wanted a spinach lasagna highlighted by a delicate, creamy sauce and tender noodles that was appropriate for a diabetes diet. We decided on convenient frozen spinach, as it helped cut down the cooking time. To cut a significant amount of saturated fat from the sauce, we replaced the butter commonly used in making a roux with a far lesser amount of heart-healthy olive oil. For richness and a quintessential creamy texture, we turned to a combination of cheeses (ricotta and mozzarella). Baked pasta dishes often emerge from the oven with mushy noodles and a dried-out sauce, so to avoid these pitfalls, we undercooked the pasta slightly (not quite al dente, but still a little raw and firm). This way, the pasta could finish cooking in the sauce as the lasagna baked in the oven. Using plenty of milk and simmering only to thicken slightly allowed us to easily stir in additional ingredients. The fluidity of the sauce helped prevent it from drying up as it thickened further while the casserole baked.

1 pound (2 cups) whole-milk ricotta cheese

10 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (2½ cups)

2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, chopped fine

8 garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup all-purpose flour

5 cups 1 percent low-fat milk

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

30 ounces frozen spinach, thawed, squeezed dry, and chopped coarse

16 100 percent whole-wheat lasagna noodles

1. Stir ricotta, 1½ cups mozzarella, ½ cup Parmesan, egg, ½ teaspoon pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl until well combined; cover and refrigerate until needed.

2. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in milk and bay leaves. Bring to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

3. Off heat, discard bay leaves. Whisk in nutmeg and remaining ½ cup Parmesan. Stir in spinach, breaking up any clumps, until well combined. Cover and set aside.

4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly coat 13 by 9-inch baking dish with vegetable oil spray. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until almost al dente. Drain and rinse noodles under cold water until cool. Lay pasta out over clean kitchen towels.

5. Spread 1 cup spinach sauce over bottom of baking dish. Place 4 noodles on top of sauce and spread ¼ cup of ricotta mixture evenly down center of each noodle. Spoon 1 cup more spinach sauce evenly over ricotta. Repeat layering two more times.

6. For final layer, place remaining 4 noodles on top, spread remaining 2 cups spinach sauce over noodles, and sprinkle with remaining 1 cup mozzarella. Spray large sheet of aluminum foil lightly with vegetable oil spray, then cover lasagna.

7. Place lasagna on foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake until sauce is bubbling, 40 to 45 minutes. Uncover lasagna and continue to bake until cheese is melted and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 to 20 minutes before serving.

PER 3¼ BY 3-INCH SERVING

Cal 360 • Total Fat 16g • Sat Fat 8g • Chol 55mg

Sodium 550mg • Total Carbs 35g • Fiber 5g • Total Sugar 8g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 22g Total Carbohydrate Choices 2

 

Turkey and Cheese Lasagna

We love the hearty flavor and firm texture that whole-wheat noodles bring to our lasagnas.

Turkey and Cheese Lasagna

SERVES 12

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Lasagna is notoriously fatty, thanks to rich tomato-meat sauce and generous portion sizes. We wanted a delicious meat and cheese lasagna that would satisfy the most discerning of tastes, while still being diabetic friendly. For the cheese layer, we stuck with tradition and combined ricotta, Parmesan, fresh basil, and an egg to help thicken and bind the mixture. As for the sauce, we substituted lean ground turkey for more traditional ground beef, allowing us to slash the saturated fat and calorie counts further. For an even healthier take on this Italian-American comfort food, we reached for whole-wheat noodles instead of the classic curly-edge ones. After layering the ingredients, we covered the pan for the first part of the baking time, and then uncovered it to create a bubbling lasagna with a beautifully browned cheese topping. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe.

1 pound (2 cups) whole-milk ricotta cheese

12 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (3 cups)

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

1 cup chopped fresh basil

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Salt and pepper

teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, chopped fine

6 garlic cloves, minced

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound ground turkey

1 (28-ounce) can no-salt-added crushed tomatoes

1 (28-ounce) can no-salt-added diced tomatoes

16 100 percent whole-wheat lasagna noodles

1. Mix ricotta, 2 cups mozzarella, Parmesan, ½ cup basil, egg, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until well combined; cover and refrigerate until needed.

2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

3. Add ground turkey and cook, breaking up meat with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes with their juices and ¼ teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Off heat, stir in remaining ½ cup basil, cover, and set aside.

4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly coat 13 by 9-inch baking dish with vegetable oil spray. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until almost al dente. Drain and rinse noodles under cold water until cool. Lay pasta out over clean kitchen towels.

5. Spread 1½ cups meat sauce over bottom of baking dish. Place 4 noodles on top of sauce and spread ¼ cup ricotta mixture evenly down center of each noodle. Spoon 1½ cups more sauce evenly over ricotta. Repeat layering two more times.

6. For final layer, place remaining 4 noodles on top and spread remaining 2 cups sauce over noodles. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup mozzarella. Spray large sheet of aluminum foil lightly with vegetable oil spray, then cover lasagna.

7. Place lasagna on foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake until sauce is bubbling, 40 to 45 minutes. Uncover lasagna and continue to bake until cheese is melted and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 to 20 minutes before serving.

PER 3¼ BY 3-INCH SERVING

Cal 350 • Total Fat 14g • Sat Fat 8g • Chol 70mg

Sodium 460mg • Total Carbs 32g • Fiber 5g • Total Sugar 6g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 27g Total Carbohydrate Choices 2

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Whole-Wheat Pasta

Whole-wheat pasta is a great way to incorporate more whole grains into your diet. Though it is not lower in carbs compared to traditional white pasta, it does boast fiber and protein (our winning spaghetti has a substantial 6 grams of fiber and 7 grams of protein per 2-ounce serving) plus vitamins and minerals. Whole-wheat pasta can also provide a heartier texture and nuttier flavor to dishes. We had good luck using Bionaturae Organic 100% Whole Wheat Spaghetti and Bionaturae Organic 100% Whole Wheat Lasagne, which have a pleasant chew and are made from 100 percent whole- wheat flour for optimal nutritional benefits.

 

Noodles with Mustard Greens and Shiitake-Ginger Sauce

Brown rice noodles and a hefty amount of mustard greens provide these Asian-inspired noodles with plenty of fiber.

Noodles with Mustard Greens and Shiitake-Ginger Sauce

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Noodles and greens are a common pairing in Asia. We thought this partnership was a great way to create a diabetes-friendly pasta dish that was delicate yet filling. We set out to develop a recipe that married the spicy bite of mustard greens with classic, neutral-flavored rice noodles. Typically made from rice flour and water, these noodles are available fresh, frozen, or dried and come in a variety of shapes and thicknesses. For a healthier approach to this Asian-inspired dish, we opted for brown rice noodles. We created a highly aromatic, flavorful broth from Asian pantry staples to bring the noodles to life. First, we browned meaty shiitake mushrooms to get plenty of flavor out of them, and then we added water and mirin along with rice vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, and fresh ginger. Dried shiitake mushrooms, sesame oil, and chili-garlic sauce rounded out the Asian flavor profile. After this mixture simmered and reduced, we had a sauce that was light and brothy but super savory—perfect for flavoring and cooking the mustard greens. We finished our noodle bowl by topping each portion with the broth-infused vegetable mixture, followed by scallions for freshness and sesame seeds for a little textural contrast.

8 ounces (⅛-inch-wide) brown rice noodles

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon canola oil

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin

2 cups water

¼ cup mirin

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms, rinsed and minced

1 teaspoon Asian chili-garlic sauce

1 pound mustard greens, stemmed and chopped into 1-inch pieces

4 ounces frozen shelled edamame

3 scallions, sliced thin

2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted

Pepper

1. Bring 3 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Place noodles in large bowl and pour boiling water over noodles. Stir and let soak until noodles are soft and pliable but not fully tender, about 8 minutes, stirring once halfway through soaking. Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain noodles well, then toss with 2 teaspoons sesame oil. Portion noodles into 6 individual serving bowls; set aside.

2. Heat canola oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in water, mirin, vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, dried mushrooms, chili-garlic sauce, and 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Bring to simmer and cook until liquid has reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Stir in mustard greens and edamame, return to simmer, and cook, stirring often, until greens are nearly tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

4. Divide mustard green–mushroom mixture and sauce among noodle bowls. Top with scallions and sesame seeds and drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Season with pepper to taste and serve.

PER 1⅓-CUP SERVING

Cal 290 • Total Fat 9g • Sat Fat 1.5g • Chol 0mg

Sodium 250mg • Total Carbs 43g • Fiber 7g • Total Sugar 7g

Added Sugar 0g • Protein 9g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Peanut Noodle Salad

Upping the amount of vegetables and using less spaghetti helps to keep the carb count of this noodle dish in check.

Peanut Noodle Salad

SERVES 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With crisp vegetables and tender noodles coated in a velvety, mildly spicy peanut sauce, this flavorful salad offers a refreshing change of pace—but a peek at the fat and calorie counts reveals that it can be a nutritional nightmare. Scaling back on the peanut butter helped cut calories and saturated fat, but we made sure there was still plenty of nutty flavor. A bit of toasted sesame oil, which we added to our cooked noodles to prevent them from sticking, further amped up the nuttiness of the dish. Rinsing the cooked pasta with cold water kept it from overcooking and helped to remove some of the starch so it wouldn’t become pasty. And putting more emphasis on the vegetables in this dish—we reduced the pasta from 1 pound to 12 ounces and doubled the amount of carrot and bell pepper—promised a peanut noodle salad that was lower in carbs but still satisfying. Chopped peanuts sprinkled over the top emphasized the nutty flavor profile and gave the dish an added crunch. Minced cilantro provided a fresh, clean finish. Use a milder hot sauce, such as the test kitchen’s favorite, Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce, in this recipe. If using a hotter sauce, such as Tabasco, reduce the amount to ½ teaspoon.

½ cup natural unsweetened unsalted creamy peanut butter

3 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon hot sauce

½ cup hot water

12 ounces 100 percent whole-wheat spaghetti

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin

2 carrots, peeled and shredded

½ English cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin

¼ cup roasted unsalted peanuts, chopped coarse

cup fresh cilantro leaves

Lime wedges

1. Whisk peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and hot sauce together in large bowl until well combined. Whisking constantly, add hot water 1 tablespoon at a time, until dressing has consistency of heavy cream (you may not need all of water).

2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until tender. Reserve ¾ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and rinse with cold water until cool. Drain pasta well and toss with sesame oil. Transfer pasta to large bowl with peanut butter mixture and toss to combine.

3. Stir in bell peppers, carrots, cucumber, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste and toss until combined. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Sprinkle each portion with 2 teaspoons chopped peanuts. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

PER 1½-CUP SERVING

Cal 400 • Total Fat 18g • Sat Fat 3g • Chol 0mg

Sodium 490mg • Total Carbs 47g • Fiber 9g • Total Sugar 7g

Added Sugar 1g • Protein 15g Total Carbohydrate Choices 3

 

Chicken Baked in Foil with Fennel, Carrots, and Orange