STARTERS

snacks, light meals and salads

smoked SALMON SPREAD

  1. Place all the ingredients, except pepper and garnish, in a processor fitted with the metal blade and process until smooth. Check seasoning. Spoon into a glass container and refrigerate for a few hours. Spread thickly onto crustless, lightly buttered rye or wholewheat bread, grind a little pepper over, slice into fingers and serve garnished with fresh dill. Makes 500 ml (2 cups).

smoked SNOEK SPREAD

  1. Remove the skin from the snoek, slip out all the bones, then flake finely, feeling between your fingers to make sure you’ve got rid of them all. You should have 150 g. Put into a bowl with the rest of the ingredients, except the paprika. Mix well. Taste – it may need a pinch of salt and another 15 ml (1 Tbsp) chilli sauce. Spoon into a glass container, cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Spread generously on crustless, lightly buttered wholewheat bread, dust with paprika and slice into fingers. Makes about 500 ml (2 cups).

mushroom-cream CHEESE SPREAD

  1. Heat the oil, butter, sherry, soy sauce, rosemary, garlic and onion in a frying pan. Add the mushrooms and sauté until soft and the liquid has been absorbed (it should still be very moist). Remove from heat, stir in the cheese, then add the herbs and sugar. Taste to check seasoning, then spoon into a glass container, cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours to allow the flavours to blend. Serve on savoury biscuits. Makes 500 ml (2 cups).

mushroom CROSTINI

Crisp bread rounds piled with a delectable, non-drip topping. The mushroom mixture may be made the day before and refrigerated, the bread cut and crisped hours in advance, and everything quickly baked when needed.

  1. Slice the crusts off the bread and stamp out rounds using a 5–6 cm scone cutter (or use other shapes for variety). Place on a baking tray and brush both sides with the melted oil-butter mixture. Bake at 180 °C for 10–12 minutes, until crisp, turning once. Cool. Melt the extra butter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms and toss over low heat until all the liquid has evaporated. Sprinkle in the flour and, when absorbed, slowly add the milk. Bring to the boil and stir until very thick. Remove from heat and add the spring onions, oregano and seasoning to taste. (If working ahead, cool, cover and refrigerate.) To bake, spread the mushroom mixture thickly on each round of bread, top with olives and sprinkle with cheese. Bake at 200 °C for 12–15 minutes until piping hot. Makes about 36.

shrimp and cheese CROSTINI

The chunky topping can be mixed and refrigerated in advance. The bread rounds can also be pre-prepared. Assemble and grill just prior to serving.

  1. Using a 5 cm scone cutter, stamp out 12–14 circles from the bread and toast on one side only. Mix the remaining ingredients and spread on the untoasted side of each bread round. Arrange on a baking sheet, position well below the grill and grill until the cheese has melted. Makes 12–14.

TOMATO TARTLETS with olives, pesto and pecorino

A bit fiddly to prepare, but once you’ve got the bases made and tomatoes grilled you can line them up, stuff them and that’s it. You need a small muffin tin, with the cups 5 cm in base diameter and 2 cm deep.

  1. Roll out the pastry and cut out 12 circles, using a 7 cm cutter. Line the bases of the muffin cups with rounds of baking paper. Press a pastry circle into each, prick the bases several times, and bake at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes, or until risen, puffy and a light golden brown. Gently press down the centres to form a ‘nest’ and leave until cold before lifting out. You can do these in advance and store in a cake tin overnight.
  2. For the filling, slice the tomatoes in half but not right through – open out, place cut sides up on a baking tray, sprinkle each with a few drops of olive oil, a pinch of salt, sugar and oregano, then grill until soft, juicy and beginning to shrivel. Nestle two halves in each pastry shell, top each with 2 ml (12 tsp) pesto and one quartered olive. Sprinkle with pecorino and gently press a few pine nuts into the top. Drizzle 2 ml (12 tsp) olive oil over each and place on a grill pan well below the griller, so that they will heat through gently without scorching. Remove when the nuts and pastry are lightly browned – be careful, they are soft and hot. Leave to cool a little before serving warm, or at room temperature. (They can be reheated.) Makes 12.

* WALNUT PESTO

Place the following in a processor fitted with the metal blade: 30 g each basil and flat-leaf parsley (rinsed and dried); 1 chopped clove garlic; and 8 walnut halves. Pulse finely and dribble in about 100 ml (25 cup) olive oil. Add a pinch of sea salt and 45 ml (3 Tbsp) finely grated pecorino cheese. Spoon into a jar, run a thin film of olive oil over the top and refrigerate.

MUSHROOM mountains

Delicious, assembled in minutes, and virtually everything can be done in advance. Best served as a starter as suggested, but if serving as a snack, use smaller mushrooms, a shorter baking time, and serve on crostini.

  1. Slice the stems off the mushrooms and arrange the caps, hollows up, in a large, lightly oiled baking dish, then do the stuffing bit, one ingredient at a time, as follows: First a generous sprinkling of basil, then cover with onion, crush the garlic over, top with a thick slice of tomato, sprinkle the tomato (not the mushroom) with salt and sugar, cover with cheese, sprinkle with a few pinches of oregano, drizzle each mountain with 10–15 ml (2–3 tsp) olive oil and finish with a few grindings of black pepper. If working ahead, cover and refrigerate, but allow to return to room temperature before baking, uncovered, at 180 °C for about 30 minutes, until the mushrooms are soft and juicy, and the cheese has melted. Serve on a bed of rocket with the herbed French loaf.* Serves 6.

* BAKED FRENCH LOAFWITH FRESH HERB BUTTER

Mash together: 250 g soft butter; 125 ml (12 cup) chopped spring onions plus tops; a small handful of chopped parsley; 6 chopped sage leaves; 6 sprigs chopped marjoram leaves; 2 sprigs chopped thyme leaves; 2 cloves garlic, crushed (optional); a pinch of salt. Slice one large, long French loaf in 12 mm thick slices to the base, but not right through. Butter between the slices. If it oozes out at the top, scrape it off and slap it in again. Wrap in foil, leaving only the top exposed, and bake with the mushrooms for the last 15 minutes. Enough for 30–40 slices.

CUCUMBER CHEESECAKES with avocado

These make an unusual, minty, refreshing yet creamy hot-weather starter. Surround with salad leaves drizzled with a mustard vinaigrette* and serve with crispy rolls.

  1. Pare and grate the cucumber coarsely, and leave to drain in a colander – put a weight on top to squash out excess juice. Leave for 30 minutes then, using your hands, squeeze dry. You should have 250 ml (1 cup). Whisk together the cottage cheese, yoghurt, salt, sugar and mustard. Sponge the gelatine in the water and dissolve over simmering water. Slowly dribble it into the cheese mixture, whisking all the time. Stir in the cucumber and herbs, then fold in the cream and egg whites. Check seasoning, then pour into six ramekins (rinsed for easy unmoulding) – they should be wide in diameter so that once unmoulded there will be a flat surface for the avo. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Just before serving, arrange the avocado in overlapping circles to cover the tops, and dust with a few grinds of pepper. Serves 6.

* CREAMY MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE

Whizz the following in a blender: 2 spring onions plus a bit of the tops, chopped; 1 clove garlic, chopped; 30 ml (2 Tbsp) each white balsamic vinegar and fresh lemon juice; 250 ml (1 cup) olive oil; 10 ml (2 tsp) wholegrain mustard; a small handful of parsley tufts; 5 ml (1 tsp) runny honey; 5 ml (1 tsp) dried tarragon; a pinch of salt. Refrigerate in a glass jar and shake before using.

CHILLED SMOKED SALMON PATTIES with dilly mayo

These make the most elegant and enticing starters: plump little patties with a drizzle of light mayonnaise. Not too rich, not too expensive (the salmon is padded out with other things), not at all tricky to make, and everything tied up in advance – you can even make them a day ahead and refrigerate overnight. Present prettily on small plates.

  1. For the salmon patties, mix everything together. To mould, you will need four to six small ramekins – flattish and shallow – 6 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep is just right. Four ramekins will give you really generous patties; six will provide small appetite-whetters – the better option if a good dinner is to follow. Line each with clingfilm, with enough overhang to cover the tops. Divide the mixture between the ramekins, pressing in gently to make a flat cake. Cover with the overhanging clingfilm and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. When needed, simply lift out of the ramekin, remove the clingfilm and out should plop a perfect patty. If garnishing, do so now.
  2. For the mayonnaise, stir everything together until mixed, then cover and refrigerate. Makes just enough to spoon alongside or drizzle over 6 patties. Serves 4–6.

brunch MUESLI

This nutritious muesli is a dry, untoasted mixture, and not a sweet and crunchy granola. Best of all, it should be put together a few hours in advance and refrigerated to soften and settle down. Please note that I have used the most convenient measures for the muesli mix, but you won’t need it all – half is about enough, and the rest can be saved for tomorrow’s breakfast.

  1. Mix together all the ingredients for the muesli, except the orange juice. Toss the fruit together. Stir the yoghurts and honey until combined. Use a large serving dish with sides because the layers need to be spread out. First, spread one-third of the muesli mix to cover the base quite thickly. Drizzle with orange juice – just a little, for the oats to soak up in due course, else they will be too dry – but one doesn’t want them mushy either. So, just a little juice. Then, a layer of half the fruit. Drizzle with half the yoghurt mixture. Repeat. Sprinkle the top quite generously with cinnamon, and refrigerate for about 2 hours – or more if convenient – before serving. Serves 8–10.

easy summer and winter SMOOTHIES

These are pure and really simple smoothies, just glowing with healthy vitamins. No artificial flavours or colourants or ice cream. Good anywhere, anytime, especially at a brunch. Ingredients easily stretched.

MANGO AND ORANGE SMOOTHIE

  1. Place the mango pieces and orange juice in a blender and pulse until absolutely smooth. Add the yoghurt and honey, and blend again. Add more honey now if you like, but if the mango is ripe it should not be necessary. Serve immediately, or chill briefly. No garnish is necessary as it’s a health drink, not a cocktail. Having said that, a sprig of mint will confirm the fresh, cool image.

WINTER SMOOTHIE

  1. Place all the ingredients in a blender and pulse until smooth. You could add ice to the glasses before pouring in these smoothies, but only a block or two so as not to dilute the fruity, vitamin-rich flavour.

savoury DEEP EGGS

Baked in ramekins, on a bed of freshly cooked tomatoes, bacon and corn, and topped with cheese, this makes a lovely change from scrambled eggs and omelettes. They’re also more convenient as they don’t need constant attention and are so easy to serve – one or two ramekins per person, with hot toast and butter. The size of the ramekins is important – 7 cm in diameter and 5 cm deep, but if you don’t have them, use a shallow baking dish instead. Either way, these eggs are baked au bain-marie, the ramekins standing in a larger pan/tin of simmering water. The quantities given are for four ramekins, but can easily be doubled or trebled.

  1. Set the oven to 200 °C and at the same time put in the pan of water to heat up, so that it’s ready to take the ramekins. Heat the oil and butter in a mediumsized frying pan and lightly sauté the bacon and onions or leeks. Add the tomatoes, parsley and seasoning and simmer, half-covered, for about 15 minutes until fairly thick; stir occasionally to mash up the tomatoes. If the mixture ends up looking watery, simply take off the lid and turn up the heat for a few minutes. Mix in the corn, check the seasoning, then spoon into the ramekins, dividing equally and levelly. Carefully break an egg on top of each, cover generously with cheese, dust with paprika, place in the pan/tin of hot water – the ramekins should not touch – and bake for about 20 minutes until the eggs are set and the cheese melted. Grab a fork and tuck in at once. Serves 2–4.

* Use sweet and rosy fresh tomatoes – canned won’t do here.

EGG, CHEESE AND MUSHROOM bake

It’s not quite a quiche, nor is it a tart, and it’s not a frittata either, nor can you call it an omelette. But it’s useful. Served with grilled tomatoes and hot toast, this easy bake slots happily into the menu for a brunch or light lunch.

  1. Heat the oil and sauté the red pepper, mushrooms, onions and rosemary until soft and aromatic; keep the heat low and stir around for about 10 minutes, or until the mixture is dry. Whisk together the eggs, cottage cheese, milk, flour, mustard powder, parsley, 75 g of the Cheddar cheese, and the salt and pepper, then stir it into the vegetable mixture. Lightly oil a deep 23 cm pie dish. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, swirl to coat and shake out the excess. Pour in the egg mixture. Let it settle evenly, then sprinkle with the remaining cheese and dust with paprika. Bake at 160 °C for 30–35 minutes, or until set. Leave to stand for a minute or two before slicing into four large wedges. Remove with a spatula. Serves 4.

TOASTED CHEESE special

This is a favourite savoury munch, almost as quick to make as ordinary cheese toast, but it looks much more appetising – all puffed up and golden brown on open slices of toast. Delicious served with coffee for a hearty elevenses snack, or even a quick lunch. Serve with knives and forks.

  1. Using a fork, mash the cheese, baking powder, eggs, mustard, seasoning, onion and butter together to make a coarse paste. Toast the bread on one side. Arrange a few slices of tomato on the untoasted side, and cover thickly with the cheese mixture. Dust with paprika, arrange on a heatproof platter and place under a hot grill – not too close, because the flavours have to come together, and there are eggs in there, and the cheese has to melt – but it takes only a few minutes to reach perfection. Sufficient for 4–6 slices of bread, depending on size.

ASPARAGUS with a choice of dressings

Buy the asparagus (slender and green, not thick and white) not more than one day in advance and keep refrigerated. Before poaching, rinse well and snap off the bases, then place in a single layer in a wide-based, shallow saucepan with a little lightly salted boiling water and cook briefly, uncovered, until tender-crisp. Refresh under cold water to set the colour, drain on paper towels and serve with dressing of choice.

QUICK MUSTARD MAYO

  1. Gently mix all the ingredients with a spoon, turn into a glass jar, cover and refrigerate for a few hours. Makes 250 ml

* Wholegrain mustards differ in density – you may want a little more.

ORANGE-MUSTARD MAYO

  1. Place the egg and yolk, orange juice and rind, salt and honey in a blender and blend until thoroughly combined. Very slowly, while blending, dribble in the oil. When all the oil has been used, the mixture should have a medium-thick consistency. Stir in the mustard and brandy and refrigerate for several hours to thicken and to mature the flavour. Serves 8–10.

* Be very careful with uncooked egg yolks – keep the dressing refrigerated until the moment of serving, and if you wish to cut the richness of this dressing, gently fold in one part thick Bulgarian yoghurt to three parts dressing.

CREAMY YOGHURT SWIRLED WITH PESTO

And now for something completely different: Lightly ‘marble’ 250 ml (1 cup) Greek yoghurt with 15 ml (1 Tbsp) basil pesto – don’t mix, leave it in streaks. Refrigerate until chilled, then spoon alongside or over the asparagus spears.

SALAD PLATTER with blaauwkrantz and walnuts

… and roasted peppers, raw mushrooms and spinach, served with a whizzed blender dressing* and wholewheat rosemary and garlic ring bread (see page 196). It’s a treat. And everything can be made in the blink of an eye.

  1. Place the prepared mushrooms in a large glass bowl. (No salt at this stage.) Immediately toss with the oil, lemon juice and garlic. Mix in the red peppers and spring onions, cover and set aside or chill for up to 3 hours if working ahead. When ready to plate, line a large platter with the salad leaves. Spoon the mushroom mixture over evenly, salt lightly, then sprinkle with the cheese and walnuts. Serves 4.

* BLENDER DRESSING

  1. Whizz all the ingredients together, pour into a decanter, and pass for diners to help themselves, along with the beautiful ring loaf and butter.

LAYERED TUNA, bean and egg salad

An unsophisticated salad, effortless, quickly put together, and a complete meal. Serve with hot Italian rolls, instant herbed oil* for dipping, and salad leaves with rocket.

  1. Layer the ingredients in the given order (that is, starting with the tomatoes and carrying straight on) on a large platter with slightly raised sides. Make just one layer of each ingredient, spreading evenly, or drizzling when using the vinegar and oil. Cover loosely and leave to stand for about 30 minutes before serving. Serves 4 generously.

* Tuna in water can be used, if preferred, but drain it well; or use one can in oil, and one can in water, and adjust the quantity of olive oil accordingly.

* INSTANT HERBED OIL

Pour 150 ml (35 cup) olive oil, and the same of canola or sunflower oil, into a small, deep, heavy-based saucepan, add 2 sprigs fresh rosemary and 4 sprigs fresh thyme (about 10 cm each); 2 crumbled bay leaves; 2 fresh sage leaves, bruised; and 2 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly smashed. Stir to moisten, then heat slowly until just popping, not boiling. Leave to pop very gently for 6–8 minutes, giving the occasional stir to bruise the herbs, until it is blissfully aromatic. Remove from the stove, leave it to stop hissing and cool down, then strain. Once cooled, pour into a decanter and pass for individual drizzling.

SMOKED SALMON luncheon salad

Diners frequently sit and look at this for some time before tucking in. The colour-combination is just brilliant: creamy salmon, avocado, beetroot and rocket – and yet this flamboyant salad is dead easy to prepare. All you have to cook is the beetroot. Once that’s over with, and the salmon mixture mixed, it’s simply a matter of arranging the ingredients attractively, either on one large platter or on single-serving plates, along with sliced rye bread and butter. Fabulous.

  1. Scrub the beetroot gently so as not to break the skin and cut off the tops (leave on 2 cm), then boil or roast – the latter is tastier, but takes longer. Cool, then skin and pat dry. Meanwhile, combine the cottage cheese, salmon, sour cream, lemon rind, onions, mustard and Tabasco. Refrigerate in a covered glass bowl for a few hours for the flavours to develop. Just before serving, slice the beetroot thinly and arrange on the platter. Next, make a circle of rocket and salad leaves. Then come the slices of avocado. The salmon mixture goes in the centre – pile it into one or more nice little bowls to make it easier to dip into. Top with freshly milled pepper and a good sprinkling of walnuts. (If the platter is too full already, put the bowl of salmon alongside.) If serving on one large platter, add a fork for spearing and a spoon for the salmon dip. Serves 6.

summer SALAD PLATTER

A brilliant salad that can be served either as a starter or as a main course if you double up on the ingredients. Use a really large platter and the vegetables almost dictate the arrangement themselves – salad leaves around the edge, wedges of feta in between, the roasted veg in the centre, the anchovies and olives patterning the top. The basil oil* goes into a jug for sprinkling, and a crusty loaf goes somewhere.

  1. Place the aubergine fingers in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and leave for 30 minutes. Rinse and dry well. Arrange the aubergines, mushrooms, red peppers and onions in a large baking dish.
  2. Mix the oil, water, garlic, oregano and salt together; mix into the vegetables and tuck in the rosemary.
  3. Roast at 200 °C for 30 minutes, or until the aubergine is cooked. Remove from the oven, mix in the fresh tomatoes, discard the rosemary, then cool. Plate as suggested above or try your own arrangement, then stand back and look, and be very proud. Serves about 4.

* BASIL OIL

Whizz the following in a blender: a handful of fresh basil leaves; 125 ml (12 cup) olive oil; 60 ml (14 cup) water; 10 ml (2 tsp) lemon juice; a pinch each of sea salt and sugar. It’s difficult to estimate servings, but if you have more than four diners, it’s best to double up.

SMOKED SALMON and green bean salad

Because smoked salmon is expensive, it’s a good idea to pad it out to make it go further. In the following starter salad the addition of anchovies and slim-as-a-bridge-pencil green beans do the trick, and the result is an unusual combination, topped with a skein of salmon and served with lightly buttered rye bread. Nevertheless, it is a special-occasion and not a budget salad.

  1. Cook the beans, mushrooms (if using), onion and dill in a little unsalted water in a large frying pan until the beans are tender and still bright green – don’t cover the pan completely, keep the lid tilted. While this is happening, make the dressing by placing the oil, half the anchovies and the rest of the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. When the beans are ready, drain (but do not refresh), place in a bowl, pour the dressing over, fork in the red or yellow pepper, cool, then cover and chill for 3–4 hours. Just before serving, toss in the remaining anchovies, chopped, and arrange on individual small plates. Top with the salmon, a dollop of sour cream, and a dusting of pepper, and place a slice of lemon on the side. Serve with rye bread. Makes 6 small servings.

ROSEMARY PEAR SALAD and blue cheese dressing

A combination of layers of leafy greens, roasted peppers, walnuts and subtly perfumed pears, this salad looks lovely piled onto a large, shallow platter to show off the ingredients and colours before they all get mixed up. Easy to prepare in advance, and the quantities for leafy ingredients are adaptable; the pears will slot into a salad for four to six, so double up for a jumbo salad; the dressing, served separately, will do for about ten servings.

NUTTY COUSCOUS SALAD with spices and preserved lemons

A couscous salad that combines a succulent stir-fry with fresh coriander, walnuts and a lemony surprise simply has to be special. For a sparkling addition to a cold buffet, serve it on a beautiful platter – use a large one because the quantities are generous.

  1. Gently heat the oil and butter, add the onions and red pepper and sauté briefly. Add the mushrooms and keep tossing; when they start to shrink, sprinkle in the cinnamon, cumin and ground coriander. Toss for a few more seconds until you get the aroma, then remove the pan from the stove, mix in the walnuts, seasoning and lemon juice, then cover loosely and set aside.
  2. Prepare the couscous – follow instructions on the box, adding the turmeric to the water. When done and swollen, tip into a large bowl and fork in the vegetable and nut mixture, adding any juices left in the pan. Add the preserved lemon. Mix lightly until well combined but not clumpy, then turn into a salad bowl to cool for 1–2 hours, loosely covered. To gloss it before serving, fork in a splosh of olive oil, then garnish. If working ahead, refrigerate (once cooled) in a covered glass bowl (without the garnish) for a few hours, but expect to lose a little of the flavour. Serves about 10.

* Brown mushrooms do darken the mixture, but are preferable to button mushrooms because they have so much more flavour.

CURRIED STAMPKORING salad

Stampkoring is a nutty grain with homespun appeal. It takes longer to cook than rice, but the following method cuts down on time. Serve at any cold buffet, barbecue, or summer lunch with things on the side, like green leaves and avocado, yoghurt, hard-boiled eggs and chutney.

  1. Rinse the stampkoring and soak, generously covered with cold water, for at least 2 hours. Bring the 700 ml (245 cups) water to the boil in a deep saucepan, adding the turmeric, salt and dash of oil. Drain the stampkoring, tip into the boiling water, stir, and reduce the heat to very low. Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the grains are soft. (Once ready, it will burn, so keep an eye on it.) Meanwhile, heat the 60 ml (14 cup) oil in a large frying pan and add the onion, red pepper, garlic and courgettes. Toss until softening and glistening, then add all the spices and the raisins. Stir briefly over low heat until aromatic. If the stampkoring isn’t ready, cover the frying pan and set aside for a while. Tip the cooked stampkoring into a large bowl and immediately fork in the hot, spicy vegetables in oil.
  2. Add the fresh coriander and the sunflower seeds, check for salt and perhaps a little lemon juice, then set aside and, when it stops steaming, cover loosely. Serve at room temperature. The salad may also be refrigerated overnight, in a covered glass bowl. Serves 4–8.

LEAFY GREEN SALAD with asparagus and pesto dressing

There was a time when a side salad meant lettuce, raw onion and chopped tomato sitting there in a bowl, as boring as could be, idly picked at and eventually binned. And yet it is so easy – and so important – to add a bit of interest to a salad. It has become an integral part of a meal – after all, we should all be eating something raw with our mains every day. This one is best served with something grilled as it’s an oil-rich salad, but it’s a good, lusciously green combination.*

  1. Boil the asparagus in a little lightly salted water for a few minutes until cooked but not pap – keep the lid of the saucepan slightly tilted to help retain the bright colour. Drain, then refresh under the cold tap and gently pat dry. If working ahead, refrigerate.
  2. Make the dressing by whisking all the ingredients together. Mix the leaves, onions and asparagus in a salad bowl, pour the dressing over, toss gently to mix, then garnish with the avo and a sprinkling of nuts. Serves 6.

* If it’s all just too green, add a spot of colour by sprinkling a red salad pepper, cut into small dice, on the top before adding the avo.

** Asparagus cuts are sold ready-cut into smallish pieces and are inexpensive. If you can’t find them, try substituting slim, julienned green beans.

*** Pine nuts are a delicious indulgence. Pecans can be substituted but the composition won’t be the same.

POTATO AND CORN SALAD with mustard dressing

Gone are the days of the old-fashioned version of waxy potato salad floating in cooked salad cream. This one is much more interesting and very good with ham.

  1. Boil the cubed potatoes in a little salted water, with the dried tarragon. Drain, shake dry and turn into a shallow, but wide-based salad bowl. Pour the vinaigrette over while the potatoes are still warm and shake gently to coat the cubes evenly. Gently mix in the corn and onions, and leave until cold and the dressing has been absorbed. Meanwhile, stir together the remaining ingredients, except the garnish, until smooth, and pour half over the salad.
  2. Leave for about 10 minutes and, if you think it needs more (so much depends on the shape of your dish), drizzle over a little extra, then garnish and serve. Best freshly made, but this is not always convenient, in which case cover the cooled salad and refrigerate, as well as the remaining dressing, then add another trickle just before serving if the salad has absorbed too much while chilling. Serves 6.

* Be sure to use firm, white potatoes and not waxy or baking potatoes.

** Frozen corn is the most convenient to use, but if you’re desperate for time, a can will do – rinse and drain very well and bear in mind that the kernels will probably be sugared if canned.

lemony green bean, pepper and MUSHROOM SALAD

This bright, crunchy salad goes with anything – fish, lamb, chicken, or tossed into cooked, cooled pasta and served as a main dish. This is possibly my favourite, topped with feta or pecorino. The cheerful colours are a bonus and it does not need a garnish.

  1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion, allow to soften and turn yellow, then add the peppers, mushrooms and garlic. Stir-fry until just tender, then use a slotted spoon to transfer everything to a large, flattish salad bowl. To the pan add the remaining ingredients. Stir to mix, then cover and cook over low heat until the beans are just tender-crisp. Tip into the bowl with the first lot of ingredients, adding any juices from the pan. Toss everything together until glossy and glistening, and leave until no longer steaming before covering loosely and leaving to stand for at least 1 hour (to allow the full flavour to develop) before serving. Serves 6 modestly.

cinnamon-roasted BUTTERNUT SALAD

If I were to spell out the entire title it would run on to two full lines or more, and I know that recipes with more than seven words in the title tend to frighten people. But I have to say that this salad also contains red and yellow peppers, olives, feta cheese, basil and balsamic vinegar, and yet it is really straightforward to prepare and looks like a picture in a dish. Perfect with pasta or lamb, or centred at a buffet, which is where I first met this technicolour beauty and was prompted to devise my own version.

  1. Flatten the peppers and place spread out on a grill pan. Grill until blackened. Remove, wrap in a damp tea towel and set aside while you switch off the griller, turn up the oven heat to 220 °C, and attend to the butternut. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a large baking sheet lined with baking paper. Drizzle the olive oil over as evenly as you can, then sprinkle with the sugar, cinnamon and salt. Roast for about 20 minutes, until browned and soft. Skin the peppers, slice into thin strips, add to the butternut and turn everything into a large, flattish salad bowl. Leave to cool, then sprinkle with the feta, olives and basil and finally drizzle with the vinegar to cut the sweetness. If working ahead, cover the butternut-pepper mixture loosely once it has stopped steaming, then add the remaining ingredients just before serving. Serves 8.