chapter10

Cha Cha Chilis

Chili is characterized by a flavor and color combination of spicy-hot red chili powder and Southwest herbs and spices like oregano and cumin, even sometimes accents of cinnamon and cloves. While chili has a reputation for heat, you can most certainly make a mild chili where all the individual subtle flavors are discernable and everyone can easily eat.

Chili is the child of invention. Chili stews appear with or without beans, with meat or without, tomatoes or not, wine or tequila, and with a variety of different types of beans. While all sorts of beans show up today, the traditional bean for chili is the pinto, also called the frijol bean or Mexican red bean, a faintly streaked reddish brown and pink bean grown in the Southwest. But today's chili makers do not limit themselves; there are chilis made with black turtle beans (popular in vegetarian chilis), Great Northerns (a favorite in white chilis), black-eyed peas, Anasazi beans, cannellini white kidneys, and so much more. In any of our recipes, feel free to substitute beans, even using heirloom American varieties like Anasazi, black-and-white Appaloosa, or Jacob's cattle beans, to vary the flavor. Mixing two or three different varieties is also popular, especially in vegetarian versions. Refer to our Bean Chart on pages 402–406 for substitutions and cook times.

We have assembled here a collection of chilis guaranteed to appeal to a wide range of cooks and diners. All of them can be made a day or two ahead; they just get better as they sit. They freeze great as well.

HOW TO THICKEN CHILI

Use dry masa harina, the cornmeal used for making tortillas (keep some in the freezer just for thickening your chilis); it is the traditional way and adds a wonderful flavor. Start with 2 tablespoons mixed with 4 tablespoons cold water to make a thin slurry; make sure there are no lumps. Pour into the hot chili and stir. The chili will thicken slightly within minutes. If you want it even thicker, repeat the process. If your chili is too thick, add more liquid and cook a bit longer to heat it through. Remember, though, that if your chili is too “sauce-y,” you can serve it Cincinnati style—over spaghetti!

OUR QUICK GUIDE TO CHILES

There are dozens of chiles descended from their wild ancestors. But there are a few that are considered commercial crops. They are essential in making the oh-so-American stew called chili.

The most popular hot dried chile today is the complex flavored chipotle, the smoked-dried jalapeño, which is easily available canned in adobo sauce or dried in cellophane packages. A little bit of chipotle will give a so-so pot of chile that bit of hot and smoky. Jalapeño peppers are available fresh or canned en escabeche (pickled), which mellows the heat component considerably; if you like peppers but the heat is too much for you, try adding some jalapeño peppers en escabeche to your chili. Fresh green chiles, conveniently canned like the Anaheim, are a fast addition to chili without the hassle of roasting fresh chiles.

A few simple rules:

•The same kind of chile will be somewhat milder fresh and stronger when dried.

•Canned chiles will have a less pronounced flavor than fresh or dried.

•Every type of chile has a different level of heat and a slightly different flavor.

•Generally, the smaller the pepper, the hotter it is.

•Generally, the more pointed the shape, the hotter it is.

•The heat is in the membranes and seeds, not the meat of the chile; if you want the chile flavor but less of the heat, remove the seeds and membranes before adding the chile to your dish.

•Rehydrating dried chiles will develop their flavor.

•Don't rub your eyes while working with chiles.

•When handling chiles, if you think you might be sensitive to them, wear surgical gloves.

Here are the chiles we use most frequently:

Anaheim

This chile is also known as the California green chile and chile verde. When you buy canned chiles, this is what you're getting. They are labeled “roasted green chiles” and are sold whole or diced. They are mild in flavor and good for all types of cooking.

New Mexico Green Chile

New Mexico chile is a catch-all term for long, green chiles grown in that state. Popular varieties include Big Jims, Sandias, and 6-4s. Hatch is a town in New Mexico known for high quality chiles, hence the term “Hatch chiles” denotes the place where the chiles were grown, not the variety. When New Mexico green chiles are allowed to ripen to red before picking, then dried, they are sold as New Mexican red chiles.

New Mexico chiles range in heat from mild to quite hot. The ripened, dried chiles are sold in comely ristras throughout the Southwest in the fall. Red chile powder is made from the dried chiles, as are red pepper flakes. Red chile powder is often referred to as “the salt of the Southwest.”

Poblano

Smaller than the Anaheim, the poblano is heart-shaped and dark green, with a thin, tough skin. It may be labeled “pasilla” in the supermarket. It is typically mild to medium hot. You can stuff poblanos as you would bell peppers. These chiles are difficult to roast and peel. When allowed to ripen to red and then dried, the poblano is called the ancho chile, which is sold both as a dried chile and a pure powder, which adds a lot of flavor without a lot of heat.

Jalapeño

Two inches long and bright dark green, the jalapeño is one of the most commonly used of the chiles, especially in fresh salsas. They are also sold canned or pickled (en escabeche), both of which are milder than the fresh. If you end up with a big batch from your garden, blanch them for 5 minutes in boiling water, drain on paper towels, cool, and store whole in plastic freezer bags in the freezer. When allowed to ripen to red and then smoke-dried, the jalapeño is known as the chipotle and has a distinctive smoky flavor. They are sold dried, as a pure powder, or canned with an adobo sauce, sold as chipotles en adobo.

Chile de Árbol

This little, pointed, dried red chile is sold in cellophane bags in the Latin section of the supermarket. They are extremely hot!

Serrano and Habanero

Both of these fresh chiles are smaller and lots hotter than jalapeños, these are an acquired taste and show up seasonally. The serrano looks like a little jalapeño and the habanero (also known as the Scotch bonnet) looks like a little golden lantern.

Southwestern Black Bean Chili

Serves 4 to 6 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes at HIGH pressure

Black bean chili is the chili that made chili lovers out of a whole new generation of cooks and eaters from coast to coast. Serve bowls of this spicy vegetarian crowd-pleaser with tortilla chips or a big pile of warm tortillas, or over rice or soft polenta. Pass condiments at the table so everyone can customize their own chili. (The cheese and sour cream tame the heat.) This recipe yields a generous amount, so you'll likely have enough left over to freeze for another meal.

CHILI:

¼ cup olive oil

2 medium white or yellow onions, chopped

2 medium or large bell peppers, preferably 1 red and 1 green or yellow, seeded and chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 (1-pound) package dried black beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed in cold water

2 cups water

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 (10-ounce) cans diced tomatoes and green chiles, such as Rotel brand

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

¹/₈ teaspoon cayenne pepper

TOPPINGS:

Shredded Monterey jack or cheddar cheese

Sliced green onions

Sliced pickled jalapeño peppers

Sour cream

Sprigs fresh cilantro

Salsa and/or hot sauce

Lime wedges

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the bell peppers and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, until the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the beans, water, oregano, and chili powder. Stir to combine.

2.Close and lock the lid. Set the burner heat to high. When the cooker reaches HIGH pressure, reduce the burner heat as low as you can and still maintain HIGH pressure. Set a timer to cook for 10 minutes.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The beans should be tender yet still slightly firm to the bite.

4.Add the tomatoes and chiles with their juices, cumin, salt, and the cayenne to the pot. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Taste, adding more salt if needed.

5.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls or plates for diners to customize their chili as they prefer.

MEXICAN OREGANO

Mexican oregano is, not surprisingly, native to Mexico and has an earthy fragrance. Though it tastes similar to the stronger Greek oregano, the two are not related botanically, though they can be used interchangeably in recipes. Mexican oregano belongs to the verbena family, while common Mediterranean oregano is part of the mint family.

Three-Bean Chili with Cilantro Cream

Serves 6 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes for beans, 6 minutes for vegetables at HIGH pressure

This combination of dried beans is particularly flavorful. Smoked paprika supplies a dusky hint of heat along with fire-roasted tomatoes. The Cilantro Cream offers a nice counterpoint to the chili's spiciness. You can also serve this with slices of avocado and warm flour tortillas or cornbread.

CHILI:

¾ cup dried white cannellini beans, rinsed and picked over

¾ cup dried black beans, rinsed and picked over

¾ cup dried cranberry beans (borlotti), rinsed and picked over

8 cups water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large white onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 medium carrot, chopped

2 ribs celery, chopped

1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

2 cups frozen baby corn kernels, thawed

1 (4-ounce) can chopped roasted green chiles, drained

2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes in juice, fire-roasted if possible, undrained

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

4 teaspoons chili powder

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons sea salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon ground white pepper or freshly ground black pepper

CILANTRO CREAM:

1 cup sour cream

¹/₃ cup minced fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1.In a medium bowl, combine the three beans and cover with a few inches of water. Let soak overnight. The next day, drain and rinse the beans.

2.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, combine the soaked beans and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil.

3.Close and lock the lid. Set the burner heat to high. When the cooker reaches HIGH pressure, reduce the burner heat as low as you can and still maintain HIGH pressure. Set a timer to cook for 10 minutes.

4.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Quick Release method. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid separately. Set aside.

5.In the pressure cooker (you don't need to wash it), heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until it just begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, carrot, celery, and sweet potato and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the corn, green chiles, tomatoes with their juice, and 4 cups of the bean cooking liquid (add more water if you don't have enough bean liquid). Add the cooked beans. Stir in the vinegar, brown sugar, chili powder, paprika, cocoa, cayenne, salt, and black pepper.

6.Close and lock the lid. Set the burner heat to high. When the cooker reaches HIGH pressure, adjust the heat to maintain the pressure. Set a timer to cook for 6 minutes.

7.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The beans should be tender yet still be slightly firm to the bite. Stir, taste, and adjust the seasonings as desired.

8.Make the Cilantro Cream. Combine the sour cream, cilantro, and lime juice in a small bowl; stir until evenly combined. Cover and chill until serving.

9.Top each serving of the chili with a dollop of the Cilantro Cream.

Greengrocer Chili with Pinto Beans

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes at HIGH pressure

This chili, inspired by a recipe from the always excellent Southern Living magazine, is a mild, tomato-based beauty. It's all about the fresh, nutritious, flavor-packed bevy of vegetables. Make it in late summer, when the zucchini and yellow squash are at their most prolific, using fresh corn instead of frozen and fresh basil. Sometimes we substitute two chayote squash for the zucchini and yellow squash—we like the way it stays a bit crunchy even after cooking.

CHILI:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium sweet yellow onion (such as Walla Walla or Maui), chopped into ¾-inch pieces

2 large carrots, diced

2 ribs celery, diced

1 pound mushrooms, trimmed and sliced ½ inch thick

1 large zucchini, chopped

1 medium or 2 small yellow squash, chopped

1 tablespoon chili powder, or more to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried basil

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

2 cups tomato juice

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

2 cups water

1 (1-pound) package dried pinto beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed in cold water

1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels

Salt

TOPPINGS:

Crumbled feta or cotija cheese

Slivered fresh basil

Sliced green onions

Sliced pickled jalapeño peppers

Lime wedges

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, zucchini, and summer squash and cook, stirring a few times, for 4 minutes. Add the chili powder, basil, and pepper and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, being careful not to burn the chili powder. Add the tomato sauce, tomato juice, tomatoes and juices, water, and pinto beans. Stir to combine.

4.Add the corn to the pot. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is warm, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

5.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls or plates for diners to customize their chili as they prefer.

RED CHILE POWDERS

We got introduced to Dixon chile powder by our Southwest cooking expert, Jacquie Hiquera McMahan. Dixon, named for Dixon, New Mexico, is known as the Rolls Royce of ground chiles for its incomparable flavor.

We also like ancho chile powder, for its lovely sweetness. It is often used in combination with other dried chiles to mellow their sharpness.

You can substitute ancho chile powder or Dixon anytime we call for chili powder.

Rainbow Chili with Black-Eyed Peas and Bulgur

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes at HIGH pressure

Bulgur had a heyday in the U.S. in the 1970s and ’80s, when tabbouleh was embraced by the masses and vegetarianism was being explored by a new generation. For many people, though, bulgur never got out of the salad bowl. What a shame—here it adds fiber, flavor, and great chewy texture to this colorful, mild vegetarian chili. Unlike many whole grains, bulgur is quick-cooking because it is parboiled before being dried and cracked into pieces. Look for a medium- or coarse-textured bulgur for chili. This is one of the quickest chili recipes we know! Serve with cornbread or a baguette and butter and a big green salad.

CHILI:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium red onions, chopped

2 medium or large red, yellow, or orange bell peppers, or a combination, seeded and chopped

2 to 3 cloves garlic, to taste, minced

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

1 (15-ounce) can tomato puree

1 cup water

¹/₃ cup bulgur wheat, medium- or coarse-grind

2 (12-ounce) packages frozen black-eyed peas, thawed

2 Anaheim or poblano peppers, seeded and chopped

1 to 2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, to taste

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 tablespoon dried oregano, crumbled

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

Salt

TOPPINGS:

Shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese

Sour cream or plain Greek yogurt

Extra-firm tofu, rinsed and cut into cubes

Chopped radishes

Chopped fresh cilantro

Sliced black olives

Sliced ripe avocado

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the bell peppers and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, until the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, tomato puree, water, bulgur, black-eyed peas, Anaheims, chipotle, and spices. Stir gently but thoroughly to combine.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The bulgur should be tender. Taste, adding salt if needed.

4.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls or plates for diners to customize their chili as they prefer.

Lentil Chili with Lime Crema

Serves 6 • Cooker: 5- to 7-quart • Time: 10 minutes at HIGH pressure

Brown lentils, the kind found on the supermarket shelf, work best for this as they hold their shape even when tender. Lentils do not need to be soaked before cooking. Experiment with different chili powders, which can range from mild to hot spiciness.

CHILI:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium yellow or white onion, chopped

1 large red bell pepper, seeded and chopped

2 ribs celery, sliced ¼ inch thick

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

5 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1 (16-ounce) package brown lentils, rinsed and picked over

7 cups vegetable broth

2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

Sea salt

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

LIME CREMA:

½ cup sour cream

½ cup plain Greek yogurt

Juice and grated zest of 2 limes

1.In a 5- to 7-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the celery and garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring. Add the chili powder, cumin, and oregano; stir until warmed. Add the lentils, broth, and tomatoes and their juices. Bring to a boil.

3.In a small bowl, whisk together the Lime Crema ingredients until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until using.

4.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Stir the chili and taste for salt. Stir in the cilantro.

5.Serve the chili warm in bowls, topped with a dollop of crema.

Chicken Chili with Chayote and Sweet Potato

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes for beans, 5 minutes for chili at HIGH pressure

This is a colorful, low-fat chili, chock full of vegetables. We like to cook our pintos with epazote, the Mexican herb that is said to improve beans’ digestibility. Whether or not it does that, we can vouch for the fact that it adds a delightful herbal flavor. If there are any large stems in your epazote, remove them before using. Freeze any leftovers in one-cup containers for lunches.

1 cup dried pinto beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed with cold water

1 tablespoon dried epazote

½ cup white wine

1 pound ground chicken

1 medium red onion, chopped into ½-inch pieces

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 large ribs celery, strings scraped off and chopped into ½-inch pieces

3 medium carrots, sliced ½ inch thick, the largest slices halved

1 medium or large red bell pepper, seeded and chopped into ½-inch pieces

1 medium sweet potato, peeled and chopped into ½-inch pieces

1 medium chayote, peeled, any seeds discarded, and chopped into ½-inch pieces

1½ cups frozen corn kernels

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

3 to 4 teaspoons chili powder, to taste

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 to 4 tablespoons masa harina, as needed

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, combine the soaked beans and epazote. Add cold water to cover by 1½ inches.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Quick Release method. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. If the beans are not done to your liking, relock the cooker, bring it back up to pressure, and cook for 2 to 5 minutes longer. Once done, carefully transfer the beans and their liquid to a bowl.

4.Add the white wine to the pressure cooker (no need to wash it). Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the ground chicken, onion, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is cooked through and the onion has softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the celery, carrots, and bell pepper and cook for about 2 minutes more. Add the sweet potato, corn, chayote, and tomatoes and their juice. Add the beans and their liquid. Stir in the chili powder.

5.Close and lock the lid. Set the burner heat to high. When the cooker reaches HIGH pressure, reduce the burner heat as low as you can and still maintain HIGH pressure. Set a timer to cook for 5 minutes.

6.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The beans should be tender yet still be slightly firm to the bite. Season with the salt and black pepper.

7.To thicken the chili, ladle out about ¼ cup of broth from the chili into a cup. Stirring with a fork, dissolve 2 tablespoons of the masa harina in the warm broth. Gently stir the mixture back into the chili. Bring the chili back to a boil and let it simmer, uncovered, for 4 to 5 minutes. If the chili still isn't as thick as you like it, repeat the process with 1 to 2 more tablespoons of masa harina and more broth.

MASA HARINA

Masa harina (also known as maseca) is a coarse-ground lime-treated cornflour blend used to make tortillas or tamales. It is also great for thickening chili. Look for it in the Hispanic section of your supermarket or next to the flour in the baking section. If you enclose the package in a heavy-duty ziptop plastic bag, it keeps almost indefinitely in the refrigerator or freezer. You can also thicken your chili with finely ground cornmeal, but it will be a bit gritty.

White Bean Chicken Chili

Serves 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes for beans, 2 minutes for chili at HIGH pressure

This is adapted from one of Beth's favorite cookbooks, Beyond Parsley by the Junior League of Kansas City, Missouri. This is a mild chili and utilizes leftover cooked chicken or a store-bought rotisserie chicken combined with white beans such as Great Northern. If you like it spicy, add a jalapeño in Step 1. Everyone loves this chili, and the creamy version below. Serve it with warm flour tortillas or tortilla chips along with the suggested toppings.

CHILI:

1 (1-pound) package dried large white beans, such as Great Northern or cannellini, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed with cold water

6 cups chicken broth

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 medium white onions, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 (4-ounce) cans chopped roasted green chiles, drained

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1½ teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Leaves and tender stems from ½ bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

About 4 cups shredded cooked chicken breasts

TOPPINGS:

3 cups coarsely grated Monterey Jack cheese

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Chopped fresh tomatoes or salsa

Hot sauce of your choice

¼ cup chopped green onions

1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and chopped, or guacamole

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, combine the soaked beans, broth, garlic, and half of the chopped onions. Bring to a boil.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Quick Release method. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid.

4.In a skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the remaining onion and cook, stirring a few times, until soft and a bit golden on the edges. Add to the cooked beans. Add the chiles, cumin, oregano, cayenne, chicken, and cilantro.

6.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. The beans should be tender yet still be slightly firm to the bite. Taste for and adjust the seasonings as desired.

7.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls or plates for diners to customize their chili as they prefer.

Creamy White Bean Chicken Chili: Just before serving, stir in 1 cup light or regular sour cream and ½ cup half-and-half until blended; cook over medium heat, uncovered, until heated through, about 10 minutes.

White Bean Turkey Chili: Add 4 cups shredded cooked turkey breast in place of the chicken.

Posole con Pollo

Serves 10 to 12 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 60 minutes at HIGH pressure

Posole is a spicy hominy stew, Native American in origin, found in Mexico and throughout the American Southwest. Perhaps the most famous posole in the world is served at The Shed in Santa Fe, a family-owned restaurant that is still serving New Mexican specialties near Santa Fe's picturesque plaza after 60 years in business. Julie has fond memories of eating there as a girl in the 1960s and ’70s. When she went back to visit in 2012, the food was even better than she remembered. The Shed's posole is served as a soup or a side dish alongside the tacos and enchiladas. It is made with pork but beef is also common, as is lamb—remember that Native Americans have raised sheep in the Southwest for generations. We prefer lighter chicken or vegetarian versions—even lightened in this way, posole is extremely hearty food.

Most cooks like to boil the meat for posole separately, then combine it with the corn for final cooking but we think it's almost as good and so much easier to cook the whole stew at once in the pressure cooker. Traditional Southwestern versions of posole are seasoned very simply with some combination of chiles, oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper, perhaps with a squeeze of lime juice. Modern posole can be more elaborate—mushrooms were the star of a bowl of vegan posole that Julie enjoyed in downtown Oakland recently. Simple or elaborate, posole is party food, so follow the tradition and throw a posole party this winter!

POSOLE

Posole is made from field corn, which is starchy and tough, not the sweet corn we eat off the cob. The mature corn is dried and treated with lime (the mineral, not the fruit) in a process called nixtamalization, which softens the tough outer hull. When ground, nixtamalized corn is used to make tortillas and tamales. You can buy dried posole in cellophane bags or in the bulk section in Mexican markets throughout the U.S. or via mail order—even from The Shed if you like (www.sfshed.com). Don't be fooled by bags of dry “chicos” corn kernels. Chicos haven't been nixtamalized—they're different. Dried posole needs to be soaked for quite a long time before cooking—use one of our bean-soaking methods. Following a good soak, it still needs at least an hour in the pressure cooker to soften and “pop.” We have noticed that Southwestern brands, such as Los Chileros de Nuevo Mexico or Bueno do cook in about an hour, but Mexican brands may take longer. If you happen to live in the Southwest, you can buy frozen posole, a time-saver because it has already been soaked. If all you can find in your town is canned hominy, go ahead and substitute if you must—just reduce the cooking time to 30 minutes under pressure.

CHILI:

2 or 3 dried New Mexican red chiles (each about 4 inches long), to taste, rinsed, stems removed, and most of the seeds shaken out and discarded, OR 3 tablespoons pure New Mexico red chile powder

1 cup hottest possible tap water

1½ cups dried posole see page 382, soaked, drained, and rinsed with cold water, OR 3 cups frozen posole (no need to thaw), OR 2 (15.5-ounce) cans hominy, rinsed and drained

6 cups chicken broth

4 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1½ teaspoons dried oregano

Juice of 1 lime

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

TOPPINGS:

Shredded lettuce

Diced fresh tomato

Cubed ripe avocado

Lime wedges

Chopped radishes

Crumbled dried oregano

Pure chile powder of your choice for sprinkling

Diced peeled jicama

Diced peeled cucumber

1.Place the dried chiles and hot water in a blender and blend until smooth. Be careful when you remove the lid, as a good whiff of the chile sauce can start a nasty coughing fit. Pour the chile sauce into a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker. (If you are using ground chile, simply place it and the hot water in the pressure cooker.) Add the posole, broth, chicken, garlic, and oregano. Stir to combine.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The posole should be tender, with almost all the kernels “popped” or “bloomed.” If they are not, relock the cooker, bring it back to pressure, and cook 10 minutes longer. Repeat if necessary. If a neater presentation is desired, remove the chicken from the bones, discard the bones and cut the chicken into bite-size pieces

4.Stir in the lime juice and salt and pepper to taste. If your broth was salted, you might not need much.

5.Serve the posole warm, with the toppings in small bowls or plates for diners to customize their chili as they prefer.

Pork Posole: Substitute 1 pound boneless country-style pork ribs for the chicken. If desired, cut the meat into bite-size pieces after cooking to serve.

Lamb Posole: Substitute ¾ pound cubed boneless lamb shoulder or leg of lamb for the chicken.

Buffalo-Style Cincinnati Chicken Chili

Serves 6 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes for beans, 10 minutes for chili at HIGH pressure

Okay, we thought traditional Cincinnati-style chili (page 315) was a hoot, but then we heard about this fun hybrid—Cincinnati-style chili over pasta with a couple of Buffalo twists: chicken instead of beef, celery sticks, and blue cheese topping it instead of cheddar. We couldn't resist adapting it for the pressure cooker. When the Bengals play the Bills, you know what to serve!

CHILI:

1 cup dried white cannellini beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed with cold water

3 cups water

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 cup chopped celery

1 cup chopped carrots

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 pound ground chicken breast

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

1 cup light-tasting beer

1 cup chicken broth

1 teaspoon paprika

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR SERVING:

1 pound spaghetti, cooked

1 cup crumbled blue cheese

Chopped onions

Cooked white kidney beans

Oyster crackers

Hot sauce of your choice

Celery sticks

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure, combine the soaked beans, water, and 1 tablespoon of the oil.

4.Wipe out the pressure cooker, then heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the onion, celery, carrots, and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the ground chicken and cook, stirring to break up any large chunks of meat, until the chicken is cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their liquid, beer, broth, paprika, chili powder, oregano, and cumin. Stir to combine.

6.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

7.Serve the chili warm over spaghetti, with the rest of the toppings in bowls for diners to customize their chili as desired.

Buffalo-Style Cincinnati Turkey Chili: Substitute ground turkey for the ground chicken.

Homemade Salsa with Your Chili

Whether we have listed it or not in the suggested toppings for the chilis in this chapter, salsa is always a welcome addition and even more so when it's homemade. Here are a few of our very favorites. Add a tablespoon or two per bowl of chili. These salsas all taste best the day they are made.

Pico de Gallo (Rooster's Beak or Salsa Fresca)

Makes 3 to 4 cups

Pico de gallo translates as “rooster's beak.” It's also known as salsa fresca.

4 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1½ pounds), cored and diced

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 small white or red onion, diced

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 2 limes

½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

Salt to taste

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients. Taste. If the chiles make the salsa too hot, add some more chopped tomato. If not hot enough, carefully add a few of the seeds from the chiles, or add some pure ground chile. Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours to allow the flavors to develop.

Salsa Fresca with Sunflower Seeds: Add 3 tablespoons shelled raw sunflower seeds right before serving.

Winter Cilantro-Lime Salsa

Makes about 3 cups

2 (14.5-ounce) cans fire-roasted or plain diced tomatoes in juice, well drained

1 medium white onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 2 limes

Grated zest of 1 lime

Salt to taste

1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano peppers, to taste, seeded and finely chopped

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients.
Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours to allow the flavors to develop.

Salsa Roja

Makes about 4 cups

Salsa roja is the salsa you'll find at taco stands and in Mexican restaurants for chips. It is thicker, less chunky, and more pourable than salsa fresca. This is a delicious salsa for tacos.

2 (14-ounce) cans fire-roasted canned tomatoes in juice

1 (4-ounce) can diced or whole roasted green chiles

½ cup packed fresh cilantro (leaves and stems)

4 green onions (white part and few inches of green), trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 roasted red pepper

½ to 1 small jalapeño, to taste, seeded (if you like a spicier flavor, leave the seeds in)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

½ teaspoon sea salt

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

Drain the tomatoes, reserving the juice. Combine all ingredients except reserved tomato juice in a food processor. Pulse on and off until all the ingredients are finely chopped and as you prefer it, with a little bit of chunkiness or smooth. If you like a thinner salsa, add a small amount of the reserved tomato juice and pulse one or two more times.

Corn Salsa

Makes about 3 cups

2 cups frozen corn kernels, thawed

¹/₃ cup chopped red onion

¼ cup chopped red bell pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped jalapeño pepper, to taste

½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients.
Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours to allow the flavors to develop.

Turkey Tomatillo Chili

Serves 6 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes for chili, 1 minute for tomatillos at HIGH pressure

This white turkey chili is light in both color and calories, thanks to the turkey breast, chicken broth, green chiles, and tomatillos. It is gently spiced with cumin and coriander, and the tomatillos add a citrus-y tang.

CHILI:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound ground turkey breast

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 medium bell peppers, preferably 1 red and 1 yellow, seeded and chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup dried small white beans such as Great Northern or navy, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed with cold water

2 cups water

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1 or 2 jalapeño peppers, to taste, seeded and diced

2 cups chopped fresh tomatillos (see below) OR 1 (28-ounce) can tomatillos, drained and chopped

3 cups chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

TOPPINGS:

Shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Sour cream or plain Greek yogurt

Chopped fresh cilantro

Sliced green onions

Lime wedges

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the turkey and cook, stirring to break up any clumps of meat, until it has lost most of its pink color, about 3 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring a few times, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the bell peppers and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, until the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the soaked beans, water, cumin, coriander, and oregano. Stir to combine.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The beans should be tender yet still slightly firm to the bite.

4.Add the jalapeños, tomatillos, and broth. Relock the cooker. Set the burner heat to high. When the cooker reaches HIGH pressure, reduce the burner heat as low as you can and still maintain HIGH pressure. Set a timer to cook for 1 minute.

5.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper as desired.

6.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls for diners to customize their own bowl.

TOMATILLOS

We think of tomatillos as small green tomatoes on a drizzly day—their green or brownish papery husks look like raincoats. They are pleasantly sweet and tart, and can be enjoyed raw in salsas or cooked in sauces or stews. If you can't find fresh tomatillos, look for canned, sold in the Hispanic section of the supermarket. If you are using fresh ones, choose firm tomatillos. Peel away the papery husks and rinse the tomatillos in cold water before using. A slight stickiness is normal.

Black Friday Turkey Chili

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 8 minutes at HIGH pressure

Black Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, is traditionally the start of the Christmas shopping season. Folks like to hit the stores early for special deals, and linger to enjoy the festive atmosphere. If you plan to make this hearty, warming chili with some of your leftover turkey, you can shop all day and have dinner on the table in no time.

CHILI:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 large white onion, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

Pinch ground cloves

1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes in juice, undrained

1 cup dried pinto beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed in cold water

2 cups turkey or chicken stock OR 1 cup turkey gravy and 1 cup water

1 to 2 teaspoons chopped chipotle chiles canned in adobo sauce, to taste

3 cups shredded cooked turkey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

TOPPINGS:

Sour cream or plain Greek yogurt

Chopped sweet onion

1 avocado, pitted, peeled, and chopped

Fresh salsa

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until it is fragrant, about 1 minute more. Add the chili powder, paprika, cumin, oregano, and cloves. Stir for 1 minute, until the spices are fragrant, but do not allow the chili powder to burn. Stir in the tomatoes and their juices, the soaked beans, broth, and chipotles.

4.Add the turkey to the pot. Stir in and let heat through, uncovered, over medium-high heat, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls for diners to customize their own chili.

Black Bean Turkey Chili

Serves 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 10 minutes for beans, 10 minutes for chili at HIGH pressure

Ground turkey and black bean chili is the most popular in the turkey chili genre, because their flavors are totally complementary. Be sure to use ground dark meat, as the white meat will dry out too much during cooking. In addition to the suggested toppings, serve with grilled fresh corn tortillas or tortilla chips.

CHILI:

1 cup dried black beans, soaked overnight (see page 406), drained, and rinsed in cold water

4 cups water

1 medium white onion, cut in half

2 cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium white onion, finely chopped

2 medium red bell peppers, preferably roasted, skinned, seeded, and cut into medium dice

1 to 2 jalapeño peppers, to taste, seeds and membranes removed and cut into fine dice

2 pounds dark ground turkey

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1 (14.5-ounce) can chopped tomatoes in juice, undrained

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

2 teaspoons sea salt, or to taste

TOPPINGS:

Shredded Monterey Jack cheese or Jack and Cheddar blend

Sour cream

Chopped sweet onion

Fresh salsa

Tortilla chips

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, combine the soaked beans, water, onion halves, and garlic. Bring to a boil.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Quick Release method. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Discard the garlic and onion pieces. Drain and reserve the bean cooking liquid separately. Set aside.

4.In a skillet over medium high heat, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the chopped onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and a bit golden on the edges. Add the bell peppers and jalapeños and cook, stirring a few times, for 3 minutes. Add the turkey and cook, breaking up any clumps of meat, until it loses its pink color. Add the chili powder, cumin, and oregano; stir to combine. Add the tomatoes and their juices, tomato sauce, cooked beans, and 1 cup of the bean cooking liquid.

6.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Season to taste with salt.

7.Serve the chili with the toppings in small bowls for diners to customize their own.

Black Bean Meat Chili: Substitute 1 pound ground beef and 1 pound ground fresh pork for the turkey. Proceed as directed.

Beef and Chorizo Chili

Serves 4 to 6 • Cooker: 5- to 7-quart • Time: 4 minutes at HIGH pressure

This quick, simple chili is a mixture of ground beef and Mexican chorizo sausage, perfect for a satisfying meal on a chilly autumn evening. Mexican chorizo is uncooked pork; look for it in natural casings. This is especially good with some warm flour tortillas and a dark Mexican beer such as Negra Modelo.

CHILI:

1 pound ground beef chuck

1 pound fresh chorizo sausage, casings removed

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large white onions, coarsley chopped

3 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons New Mexico chile powder

1 tablespoon mild paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 cup beef broth

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

Salt

Taco shells (optional), for serving

TOPPINGS:

Saltine crackers or oyster crackers

Sour cream

Chopped fresh cilantro

Shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

Chopped red onions

1.In a 5- to 7-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften. Add the beef and chorizo in small batches, mashing them with a fork until each batch is no longer pink, then adding the next batch. Add the garlic and spices. Stir in the broth and tomatoes and cook for about 2 minutes more.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Taste for salt.

4.Serve the chili hot, in bowls or taco shells, and pile on the toppings.

Beef and Chorizo Chili with Beans: In Step 3, stir in 1½ cups firm-cooked pinto, kidney, or black beans, or 1 (15-ounce) can, drained and rinsed. Simmer, uncovered, 3 to 5 minutes to heat through.

Chili in Five

Serves 4 • Cooker: 5- to 7-quart • Time: 5 minutes at HIGH pressure

This is adapted from a Presto pressure cooker recipe and we love the name. You can use your pantry beans in this recipe, or those frozen extra beans in the freezer from your last bean cooking spree. While this couldn't be simpler, it is splendidly delicious and makes a great on-the-spot lunch or topping for hot dogs.

CHILI:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large white onion, chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and chopped

2 pounds coarse-ground beef round or ground venison

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 cup water or beer

1 tablespoon your favorite chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

¹/₈ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¹/₈ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 or 2 (16-ounce) cans kidney beans, drained and rinsed, or 2 cups fresh cooked beans

TOPPINGS:

Saltine crackers

Shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

Chopped fresh tomatoes

Chopped green onions

Sliced avocado

1.In a 5- to 7-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften. Add the ground meat and cook, breaking up any clumps, until it is no longer pink. Stir in the tomato sauce, water, chili powder, cumin, oregano, peppers, and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, for about 2 minutes.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Season to taste with salt.

4.Stir the beans into the pot and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat until they are heated through, 8 to 10 minutes.

5.Serve the chili hot, with the toppings in small bowls for diners to customize their own.

Beer and Mocha Lovers’ Beef Chili

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 8 minutes at HIGH pressure

In most kitchens, beef chili is the perennial favorite, served on football Sundays or ski weekends and packed into lunchboxes all winter long. Beef chili can be rich; this version is meaty yet lean and satisfying. It gets its deep color and savory flavor from a combination of coffee, chocolate, and dark beer. We like to freeze leftovers in single-serving containers for lunches—just put a portion of shredded cheese or a dollop of sour cream on top before freezing. Pop a frozen chili into your lunch bag or box. It will keep the rest of your lunch cold, and thaws and reheats in the microwave in about 5 minutes, garnishes and all.

CHILI:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 pounds extra-lean ground beef

2 medium white onions, chopped

2 medium red bell peppers, or 1 red and 1 green

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 cup strong brewed coffee

1 (12-ounce) bottle dark beer

1 cup dried red kidney beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed in cold water

2 small wedges Mexican drinking chocolate (Abuelita is one brand) OR 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder and 2 teaspoons brown sugar

3 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

TOPPINGS:

Shredded cheddar cheese

Sour cream

Chopped onions

Sliced black olives

1.Coat the inside of a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker with cooking spray. Add the oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and onions and cook, breaking up any clumps, until the beef has lost its pink color and the onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, tomato sauce, coffee, beer, beans, chocolate, chili powder, cumin, and oregano.

4.Serve the chili warm, with the toppings in small bowls so diners can customize their own.

Pork and White Bean Chili

Serves 6 • Cooker: 6- to 8-quart • Time: 20 minutes for chili, 4 minutes for squash at HIGH pressure

This is a hearty chili, adapted from a recipe in The Yankee Cook Book (Amereon Ltd., 1939) by the late Imogene Woolcott, New England food writer and culinary radio host. Serve with cornbread.

CHILI:

2½ pounds pork shoulder (pork butt), patted dry and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 teaspoons sea salt, plus more to taste

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large white onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon cumin seeds or ¼ teaspoon ground cumin

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

2 (4-ounce) cans roasted green chiles, drained and diced

1½ cups dried navy or baby white beans, soaked (see page 405), drained, and rinsed in cold water

3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 1 pound flesh)

2 cups frozen corn kernels

Hot sauce

TOPPINGS:

2 cups crumbled feta or grated Monterey Jack cheese

1 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped

1.Spread meat on a large piece of parchment paper. In a small bowl, combine 1 teaspoon of the salt, the pepper, allspice, and cloves. Sprinkle this evenly all over the meat. In a 6- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches, brown the meat on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes per batch, and adding the remaining 1 tablespoon oil as needed. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the browned meat to a plate. Add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cumin seeds and stir for 30 seconds. Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pot. Add the tomatoes, chiles, presoaked beans, and broth. Stir well.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Quick Release method. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid.

4.Add the squash and corn to the pot; stir to combine. Close and lock the lid. Set the burner heat to high. When the cooker reaches HIGH pressure, reduce the burner heat as low as you can and still maintain HIGH pressure. Set a timer to cook for 4 minutes.

5.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

6.Serve the chili hot, with the toppings in bowls so diners can customize their own.

Bison Bean Chili with Corn Salsa

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 12 minutes at HIGH pressure

Bison, or buffalo, has definitely hit the mainstream in the U.S. If you don't see it in the meat case at your store, look in the freezer section. The meat looks like beef and tastes similar, but contains one-quarter of the fat of beef and is higher in protein; also, because it is raised grass fed, it contains no growth hormones or antibiotics. Because of its leanness, ground bison can cook up a bit dry, so chili is the perfect way to showcase it.

CHILI:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1½ pounds ground bison

1 large white onion, chopped

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

3 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon paprika

½ teaspoon ground allspice

1¼ cups dried black beans, soaked (see page 402), drained, and rinsed in cold water

¾ cup dried pinto beans or kidney beans, soaked, drained, and rinsed in cold water

4 cups beef broth

2 canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, chopped

1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped

TOPPINGS:

Corn Salsa (page 301)

Sour cream

Shredded Cheddar cheese

Corn chips

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the ground bison and onion and cook, breaking up any clumps, until the meat has lost its pink color and the onion begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, spices, beans, broth, and chiles. Stir to combine.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The beans should be tender but still be slightly firm to the bite. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4.Serve the chili hot, with the toppings in bowls for diners to customize their own.

CHIPOTLE CHILE PASTE

What to do once you've opened a can of chipotle chiles in adobo sauce? Pop the whole thing in the food processor or blender and pulse to create a paste. It'll keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. Or transfer it to a sandwich-size ziptop plastic bag and freeze it flat, so that the chile layer is quite thin. Then you can break off pieces while they're still frozen. About 1 teaspoon of puree equals 1 chile.

Chili and Cornbread

There isn't a bean dish that isn't enhanced by homemade cornbread on the side, preferably still warm from the oven. Because cornmeal is unique in flavor and texture, there is no substitute for it. The cornmeal sold in most supermarkets is a medium grind, very good in flavor, and will keep fresh a long time, so long as it is degerminated (and it usually will be). For an exceptional flavor, use stone-ground cornmeals, available from small local mills or a natural foods store, which will retain flecks of the flavorful germ. Store cornmeal—degerminated or not—in the refrigerator up to about 6 months or in the freezer up to a year. Fresh cornmeal will smell sweet, never sour or rancid.

Here are a few of our very favorite cornbread recipes. Wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and then foil or slipped into a 1-gallon plastic freezer bag, all of them can be frozen up to 2 months.

Best Cornbread

Makes one 8-inch round or square pan, serves 6

This is a great basic recipe, with lots of excellent variations if you want to get fancy. This will also make 10 standard-sized muffins.

To make this gluten-free, use a gluten-free baking mix.

1 cup fine-grind yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour or Bob's Red Mill Gluten-Free Baking Mix

¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar

2½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon sea salt

2 large eggs

½ cup milk

½ cup sour cream

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted, or ¹/₃ cup light olive oil

1.Preheat the oven to 375° F (reduce the heat to 350° F if using Pyrex glass pan). Grease an 8-inch springform pan or square pan or 9-inch deep pie plate (ceramic or Pyrex).

2.In a deep, medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt.

3.In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, and sour cream together. Add to the dry ingredients and pour the melted butter over the top. Stir with a large rubber spatula just until all ingredients are moistened yet thoroughly blended. Take care not to overmix.

4.Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until golden around the edges and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let stand 15 minutes before cutting into wedges or squares to serve.

Feta Cornbread: Add 1 cup (4 ounces) crumbled feta cheese in Step 3.

Blueberry Cornbread: Gently fold in 1 cup fresh blueberries in Step 3.

Vegan Cornbread

Makes one 8-inch round or square pan, serves 6

Masarepa, white grits, are available in the Mexican section of the supermarket.

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour or whole wheat flour

½ cup fine-grind yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

½ cup white grits or Masarepa (fine white cornmeal)

3 tablespoons granulated or brown sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup water or plain nondairy milk, such as almond milk, soy milk, or rice milk

¼ cup light olive oil

1.Preheat the oven to 350° F (reduce the heat to 325° F if using a Pyrex pan). Grease an 8-inch springform pan or square pan or 9-inch deep pie plate (ceramic or Pyrex).

2.In a deep, medium bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, grits, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the water and oil to the dry ingredients and stir with a large rubber spatula just until all ingredients are moistened yet thoroughly blended. Take care not to overmix.

3.Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until golden around the edges and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let stand 15 minutes before cutting into wedges or squares to serve.

Whole-Grain Cornbread

Makes one 8-inch round or square pan, serves 6

1¼ cups fine-grind yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

¾ cup white whole wheat flour or whole wheat pastry flour

¾ cup frozen corn kernels, thawed

3 tablespoons sugar or honey

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon sea salt

1 large egg, beaten

¾ cup sour cream thinned with ¼ cup buttermilk or half-and-half

3 tablespoons light olive oil

1.Preheat the oven to 350° F (reduce the heat to 325° F if using a Pyrex pan). Grease an 8-inch springform pan or square pan or 9-inch deep pie plate (ceramic or Pyrex).

2.In a deep medium bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, corn, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg, sour cream mixture, and oil and stir with a large rubber spatula just until all ingredients are moistened yet thoroughly blended. Take care not to overmix.

Aunt Joan's Broccoli, Cottage Cheese, and Cheddar Cornbread

Makes 1 (10-inch) round springform pan or 9 x 19-inch pan, serves 12

Everyone wants to make this recipe even though it starts with a mix and uses frozen broccoli. Needs no embellishment; eat it perfectly plain.

1 (8.5-ounce) box corn muffin mix

¼ teaspoon sea salt

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

½ cup chopped white onion

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped broccoli, thawed but not drained

1 (8-ounce) container small-curd cottage cheese

4 large eggs

1 cup coarsely shredded Cheddar cheese

1.Preheat the oven to 375° F. Grease a 10-inch springform pan or 9 x 19-inch baking pan.

2.In a deep medium bowl, combine the corn muffin mix and salt. In a skillet over medium heat, melt the butter; add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the broccoli and any liquid and cook for 1 minute. Set aside to cool 10 minutes.

3.Add the cottage cheese and eggs to the dry ingredients and combine with a whisk or Danish dough whisk. Add the sautéed vegetables and cheese and fold together with a large rubber spatula just until all the ingredients are moistened yet thoroughly blended. Take care not to overmix.

4.Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until golden around the edge and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Let stand 15 minutes before cutting into wedges or squares to serve.

Cheese and Double Corn Muffins

Makes 12 large muffins

Rich and cakelike, these savory corn muffins are positively addictive.

1 (15-ounce) can cream-style corn

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

2 large eggs, beaten

1 cup buttermilk

1¾ cups fine-grind yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1¼ cups coarsely shredded Monterey Jack cheese

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

1.Preheat the oven to 400° F. Grease or spray with olive oil spray the cups of a standard (2¾-inch) muffin tin.

2.In medium bowl with a large spoon, stir the creamed corn, melted butter, eggs, and buttermilk together until well blended. In another bowl, combine the remaining ingredients, tossing to distribute the cheese. Add the cheese-flour mixture to the buttermilk mixture. Beat well to make a thick, creamy batter that falls off the spoon in clumps.

3.Spoon the batter into the muffin tin, filling each cup level with the top. You can use a spring-action ice cream scoop if you like. Bake until golden and the tops are dry and springy to the touch, 20 to 24 minutes. A cake tester will come out clean when inserted into the center. Cool in the pan 5 minutes before removing to cool on a rack. Serve warm or store in the refrigerator. Use within a day or freeze.

Two-Tone Maple Cornmeal Muffins

Makes 12 muffins

These muffins owe their colors to two batters, one made with blue cornmeal and the other yellow cornmeal. Blue cornmeal is ground from naturally blue maize and is considered a whole-grain cornmeal. You can find it at health food stores and online.

BLUE CORNMEAL BATTER:

¾ cup whole wheat pastry flour

¾ cup fine-to medium-grind blue cornmeal (harina de maiz azul para tortillas)

2 teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon sea salt

3 tablespoons light olive oil

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1 cup buttermilk

YELLOW CORNMEAL BATTER:

¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ cup fine-grind yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

2 teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon sea salt

3 tablespoons light olive oil

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1 cup buttermilk

1.Preheat the oven to 350° F. Grease or coat with olive oil spray the cups of a standard (2¾-inch) muffin tin.

2.Make the blue batter. In a medium bowl, combine the dry ingredients. In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk the oil, maple syrup, and buttermilk together. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and, with a large rubber spatula, stir just until all ingredients are moistened yet thoroughly blended. Take care not to overmix. Set aside.

3.Prepare the yellow batter in the same manner. The batters will be thin and pourable.

4.Using an oversized spoon, fill each muffin cup first halfway with the blue batter, then fill with the yellow batter, filling each cup level with the top. With a knife, draw a spiral through to the bottom of the cup. Bake until golden and the tops are dry and springy to the touch, 25 to 30 minutes. A cake tester will come out clean when inserted into the center. Cool in the pan 5 minutes before removing to a wire rack. Serve warm or store in the refrigerator. Keep a bag in the freezer for impromptu dining.

Navajo Lamb Chili with Black Beans and Yams

Serves 6 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 12 minutes at HIGH pressure

A specialty of the American Southwest, lamb chili is real comfort food.

CHILI:

2 pounds boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of fat and cut into ½-inch cubes

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups cubed (¾-inch) peeled yams (about 2 yams)

1 medium white onion, chopped

2 tablespoons ancho chile powder

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

1 (14-ounce) can reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained, or 1¾ cups freshly cooked black beans

TOPPINGS:

Crumbled feta cheese

Sliced green onions

ANCHO CHILE POWDER

Ancho chile powder has a dark, somewhat smoky flavor, with mild heat. It is an integral part of authentic Mexican cooking and is a perfect partner with lamb. Because of its mildness, you can use it as liberally as you would salt and black pepper.

1.In medium bowl, combine the lamb, salt, and pepper; toss to evenly coat. In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the lamb, yams, onion, ancho chile powder, garlic, cumin, and oregano. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Do not brown the meat. You can do this in batches. Stir in the tomatoes and their juices and broth.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid.

4.Stir in the beans and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat until heated through. Taste for salt and pepper.

5.Serve the chili hot, topped with feta and green onions.

Cincinnati-Style Chili

Serves 6 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 8 minutes for beans, 15 minutes for chili at HIGH pressure

Cincinnati-style chili is unique—a true testament to chili's ability to pack its bags, move and happily settle in to new surroundings, reinventing itself to please the locals. Cincinnati-style chili is traditionally made with beef, and it has a thin consistency. It's served over spaghetti, which never fails to surprise the uninitiated, or over a hot dog, chili-dog style. The seasonings tend to the warm spices—allspice, cloves, cinnamon, coriander—often with a bit of unsweetened chocolate or cocoa for good measure. But don't be bound by tradition—try ladling your own favorite chili over pasta. Ever accommodating, chili won't mind.

CHILI:

1 cup dried kidney beans, soaked (see page 406), drained, and rinsed in cold water

3 cups water

3 tablespoons oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 pound lean ground beef

2 cups beef broth

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, undrained

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon ground coriander

Pinch ground cloves

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR SERVING:

1 pound spaghetti, cooked

1 pound shredded Cheddar cheese

Chopped onions

Cooked kidney beans

Oyster crackers

Bottled hot sauce

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, combine the soaked beans, water, and 1 tablespoon of the oil.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 10 minutes. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. The beans should be tender but still be slightly firm to the bite. Pour the beans and liquid into a bowl and keep warm.

4.Wipe out the pressure cooker. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the beef and cook, until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Spoon off excess fat. Stir in the broth, tomatoes and their juices, spices, cocoa, and vinegar.

6.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

7.Serve as you prefer, with hot sauce on the side.

CINCINNATI-STYLE CHILI, THE WAY YOU WANT IT

In Cincinnati, chili speaks its own language. The diner orders it as “bowl” or plain, or with add-ons in the following way:

“One-way”: Over spaghetti

“Two-way”: Over spaghetti, topped with cheddar

“Three-way”: Over spaghetti, topped with cheddar and onions

“Four-way”: Over spaghetti, topped with cheddar, onions, and kidney beans

“Five-way”: All of the above, plus the final addition of oyster crackers for crunch

Venison Chili with Blue Cheese Toasts

Serves 6 to 8 • Cooker: 5- to 8-quart • Time: 8 minutes at HIGH pressure

If you're a hunter, or you have one in the family, you are probably well-acquainted with the rich flavor and lean texture of venison. If you're not, you're in luck because venison is more available to shoppers than ever before. Chile is the perfect showcase for ground venison—the savory flavor of the meat stands up perfectly to the chile, smoky paprika and vinegar. The blue cheese toasts take this chili directly into gourmet territory! If your butcher doesn't stock ground venison (check the freezer case), you can easily order it online.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large white onions, chopped

1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 pounds ground venison

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

4 tablespoons tomato paste

1 (12-ounce) bottle dark beer

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 to 1¼ teaspoons ground cumin, to taste

1 to 1¼ teaspoons smoked paprika, to taste

1 to 1¼ teaspoons ancho chile powder, to taste

Few dashes hot sauce

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Salsa of your choice (page 301)

Blue Cheese Toasts (recipe follows)

1.In a 5- to 8-quart pressure cooker, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the onions and cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the bell pepper and garlic; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Remove the vegetables to a plate. Brown the ground venison in batches in the pot, breaking up any clumps, until there is no pink and it is nicely browned. Stir in the vinegar, then return the sautéed onions and pepper to the pot. Add the tomatoes and their juices, tomato paste, beer, spices, and hot sauce. Stir to combine.

3.Remove the pot from the heat. Open the cooker with the Natural Release method; let stand for 15 minutes. Make the Blue Cheese Toasts while the pressure comes down. Be careful of the steam as you remove the lid. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

4.Serve the chili warm topped with salsa with a few blue cheese toasts on the side.

Blue Cheese Toasts

Makes 12 toasts

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

4 ounces blue cheese, softened

¼ cup finely chopped pecans

12 baguette slices, ½ to 1 inch thick

Preheat the oven to 350° F. In a small bowl, combine the butter and blue cheese with a fork until blended. Mash in the pecans. Spread a layer of the cheese mixture evenly on one side of each baguette slice. Place in a single layer on a parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the cheese mixture is melted and the toasts are heated through, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve immediately.

VENISON

When prepared properly, free-range venison is one of the most beautiful, flavorful meats you'll ever eat. Whether farm raised or hunted, the key elements for producing great meat are the same: cooling the meat as quickly as possible, keeping the meat clean, aging it properly, and packaging and freezing it well. Many people shy away from venison because they are intimidated by the cooking process. Nothing could be further from the truth. While there are a variety of ways to prepare venison, you can use it in recipes that you are already familiar with. Typically you can replace beef, pork, or even lamb with venison in all of your favorite recipes.