Chapter 01

PICKLES, RELISHES & SAUCES

DILL PICKLE SPEARS

These classic spears are crisp, sour, and a sandwich’s best friend. Like most pickles, they’ll reach their best flavor and texture after three weeks in the jars.

Makes: 6 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 20 min.
Total time: 50 min., plus 1 day brining and 3 weeks standing time

4 lb. (3- to 5-inch) pickling cucumbers

10 Tbsp. canning-and-pickling salt, divided

3 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. pickling spice

12 dill sprigs

2 Tbsp. whole mustard seeds

1. Wash cucumbers, and trim any that are longer than 4 inches (so that they’ll fit comfortably in the jar). Cut each cucumber lengthwise into quarters. Place spears in a large clean container (such as a 12- to 18-qt. plastic pail or dish basin). Combine 6 Tbsp. salt and 1 gal. water in a large pitcher, stirring until salt dissolves. Pour over cucumbers; cover and let stand at room temperature 24 hours. Drain.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. While jars are boiling, combine vinegar, next 2 ingredients, remain-ing ¼ cup salt, and 1 qt. water in a 3-qt. stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil.

4. Place 2 dill sprigs and 1 tsp. mustard seeds in each hot jar. Pack jars tightly with cucumber spears. Cover spears with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

5. Remove jars from water, and let stand, undisturbed, at room temperature 24 hours. To check seals, remove the bands, and press down on the center of each lid. If the lid doesn’t move, the jar is sealed. If the lid depresses and pops up again, the jar is not sealed. Store properly sealed jars in a cool, dark place up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening.

NOTE: Pickling cucumbers are small, crisp, unwaxed, and needn’t be peeled. Widemouthed jars aren’t essential for pickles, but they do make for easier packing.

BREAD-AND-BUTTER PICKLES

Try these sweet-and-sour pickles on sandwiches, in deviled eggs, or straight out of the jar.

Makes: 7 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 55 min.
Total time: 4 hours, 10 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

4¾ lb. medium cucumbers

4 large onions

1 large green bell pepper, chopped

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

2½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

2 cups sugar

2 Tbsp. mustard seeds

¾ tsp. ground turmeric

5 whole cloves

1. Scrub cucumbers thoroughly to remove any wax; trim stem and blossom ends, and cut cucumbers crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices. Cut onions in half, and slice crosswise into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Place cucumber, onion, and bell pepper in a bowl; toss with salt. Cover and let stand 3 hours at room temperature; drain.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described. While jars are boiling, bring vinegar and next 4 ingredients to a boil in an 8-qt. stainless steel or enameled stockpot, stirring just until sugar dissolves. Add drained cucumber mixture, and cook, stirring often, 7 to 10 minutes or until mixture is thoroughly heated and cucumber peels turn dark green.

3. Ladle hot mixture into hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

4. Remove jars from water, and let stand, undisturbed, at room temperature 24 hours. To check seals, remove the bands, and press down on the center of each lid. If the lid doesn’t move, the jar is sealed. If the lid depresses and pops up again, the jar is not sealed. Store properly sealed jars in a cool, dark place up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening.

SQUASH PICKLE MEDLEY

This colorful blend mimics bread-and-butter pickles—sweet, tart, and squeaky-crisp—even though it contains no cucumbers. Use the freshest zucchini and yellow squash you can find, free of blemishes and with no hint of limpness, for the crispiest results.

Makes: 4 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 55 min.
Total time: 4 hours, 10 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

4 large zucchini squash (2½ lb.)

4 large yellow squash (1¼ lb.)

1 (8-oz.) onion, halved vertically and cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices (curved strips)

⅓ cup canning-and-pickling salt

Ice cubes

2 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

2 cups sugar

1 tsp. mustard seeds

½ tsp. celery seeds

¼ tsp. ground turmeric

1. Wash zucchini and yellow squash, and trim stem and blossom ends; cut squash crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Toss squash and onion with salt in a very large bowl. Cover vegetables with ice cubes. Cover and let stand at room temperature 3 hours.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. While jars are boiling, drain vegetables, but do not rinse, discarding brine and any unmelted ice. Return drained vegetables to bowl. Combine vinegar and next 4 ingredients in a medium stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

4. Pack squash and onion mixture tightly into hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover vegetables with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

QUICK CONFETTI PICKLES

No time to can? No problem. These refrigerator pickles are easy—and so colorful that you’ll want to shingle them on buttered brown bread or put them in a glass bowl just to show them off. Standard radishes will do, but slender, carrotlike icicle radishes from the farmers’ market are easier to slice.

Makes: 2 (1-pt.) jars for the fridge
Hands-on time: 30 min.
Total time: 1 hour, plus 1 day standing time

1 English cucumber

1 medium-size yellow squash

4 Tbsp. canning-and-pickling salt, divided

1 long, slender medium carrot

2 pink, purple, or red icicle radishes or 10 standard-size radishes

4 dill sprigs

1 cup cider vinegar (5% acidity)

¼ cup sugar

2 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. dill seeds

1. Wash vegetables. Score cucumber and squash lengthwise with a fork, leaving furrows in the peel on all sides. (This makes scalloped edges when vegetables are sliced.) Trim stem and blossom ends of cucumber and squash; cut into ⅛-inch slices. Place in a colander in sink; sprinkle with 2 Tbsp. salt, and toss gently. Let drain 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, peel carrot, and cut carrot and radishes into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Toss together with drained cucumber and squash.

3. Place 2 dill sprigs in each of 2 clean (1-pt.) jars or nonreactive containers with lids. Pack vegetables in jars, leaving ½-inch headspace.

4. Bring vinegar, next 3 ingredients, remaining 2 Tbsp. salt, and 2 cups water to a boil in a 1½-qt. stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar and salt dissolve. Pour hot vinegar mixture over vegetables to cover. Apply lids. Chill 24 hours before serving. Store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks.

PICKLED JALAPEÑO SLICES

If you like things hot, you’ll love these fiery pickles. They’re ideal as a final atomic flourish on tacos, nachos, and huevos rancheros. If you prefer milder pickled peppers, cut off the stem ends, and scoop or tap out some of the seeds before slicing the peppers.

Makes: 4 (½-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 25 min.
Total time: 45 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

¾ lb. green jalapeño peppers

¼ lb. red jalapeño peppers

1½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

1 tsp. canning-and-pickling salt

4 large garlic cloves, halved

4 bay leaves

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, put on gloves, and cut peppers into ¼-inch slices, discarding stem ends. Combine vinegar, salt, and 1½ cups water in a medium stainless steel saucepan; bring to a boil.

3. Place 2 garlic halves and 1 bay leaf in each hot jar. Pack jars tightly with peppers, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover peppers with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

PICKLED GARLIC WITH CHILES

Try these crunchy cloves in dirty martinis and anywhere you’d use fresh garlic. The garlic is mellowed and crisped by pickling and enhanced by hot peppers, and the hit of vinegar brightens any savory dish.

Makes: 5 (4-oz.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 20 min.
Total time: 45 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

1½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

1 tsp. canning-and-pickling salt

½ tsp. sugar

3 small dried chile peppers, halved

8 whole black peppercorns

2 cups peeled garlic cloves

4 small bay leaves

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, combine first 5 ingredients in a large stainless steel saucepan; bring to a boil. Add garlic; bring to a boil, and boil 4 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Place 1 bay leaf in each hot jar. Using a slotted spoon, divide garlic and halved chiles (discard remaining halved chile) evenly among hot jars, packing tightly and leaving ¼-inch headspace; cover with hot pickling liquid, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

PICKLED GOLDEN BEETS

This recipe works with red beets, too, but golden beets are less likely to stain your fingers or your apron.

Makes: 4 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 45 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 55 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

3¾ lb. (3-inch-diameter) golden beets

2½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

1¼ cups sugar

1 tsp. canning-and-pickling salt

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

8 whole cloves

2 (2- to 2½-inch-diameter) onions, thinly sliced

1. Trim beets, leaving 1 inch of stem, and scrub. Bring beets to a boil in water to cover in a medium saucepan; reduce heat, and simmer 25 to 30 minutes or until tender. Drain, rinse, and cool slightly. Trim off roots and stems; peel beets. Cut beets in half vertically; cut halves into ¼-inch-thick slices to measure 6 cups.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. While jars are boiling, stir together vinegar, next 4 ingredients, and 1¼ cups water in a stainless steel or enameled 8-qt. Dutch oven. Bring mixture to a boil. Add beets and onions; reduce heat, and simmer 5 minutes. Remove and discard spices.

4. Using a slotted spoon, divide beets and onions evenly among hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover beet mixture with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 30 minutes.

PICKLED DILLED BEANS

Crushed red pepper gives these beans a kick. A mix of green and yellow beans makes for a pretty jar.

Makes: 6 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 40 min.
Total time: 55 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

3 lb. fresh green or yellow beans (5 to 6 inches long)

6 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

⅔ cup canning-and-pickling salt

1½ tsp. dried crushed red pepper

12 fresh dill sprigs

6 garlic cloves, peeled

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, wash beans, trim stem ends, and cut into 4-inch lengths. Combine vinegar, salt, crushed red pepper, and 2 cups water in a 3-qt. stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil.

3. Place 2 dill sprigs and 1 garlic clove in each hot jar. Pack whole beans tightly in jars. Cover with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 5 minutes.

PICKLED PEARL ONIONS

Use these crisp, tart onions as sandwich toppers, martini garnishes, or interesting additions to meat-and-cheese platters.

Makes: 3 (½-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 1 hour
Total time: 1 hour, 11 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

2 (10-oz.) packages fresh pearl onions

2¾ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

1 cup sugar

1 tsp. canning-and-pickling salt

3¾ tsp. mustard seeds

1½ tsp. celery seeds

12 whole cloves

1. Place onions a large pot of boiling water 30 seconds; drain. Plunge into ice water to stop the cooking process; drain. Trim and discard ends of each onion, and slip off skins.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. While jars are boiling, bring vinegar, sugar, salt, and ½ cup water to a boil in a 6-qt. stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven over high heat. Boil 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add peeled onions, and return to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer 4 minutes or until onions are almost tender.

4. Place 1¼ tsp. mustard seeds, ½ tsp. celery seeds, and 4 cloves in each hot jar. Pack onions tightly in jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover onions with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on pages, processing 10 minutes.

PICKLED JAPANESE TURNIPS WITH SHISO

These juicy white salad turnips shrink considerably during processing, so pack them tightly into the jars, fitting the wedges together like puzzle pieces. Save some of the finished pickles for a Vietnamese-style sandwich.

Makes: 3 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 30 min.
Total time: 45 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

2½ lb. hakurei turnips

4 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

¼ cup sugar

6 fresh red or green shiso leaves

3 serrano peppers

3 garlic cloves

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as.

2. While jars are boiling, scrub turnips thoroughly, and remove any blemishes; trim off green tops. Cut turnips into 1-inch wedges. Bring vinegar, salt, sugar, and ½ cup water to a boil in a 3-qt. stainless steel saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt.

3. Place 2 shiso leaves, 1 serrano pepper, and 1 garlic clove in each hot jar. Pack turnips tightly in jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover turnips with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace.

4. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 15 minutes.

NOTE: Look for hakurei turnips at farmers’ markets, and lemony shiso leaves at Asian markets. Green and red leaves work equally well, but the red shiso lends a slight pink color to the brine and the turnips.

BÁNH MÌ WITH PICKLED JAPANESE TURNIPS

Makes: 4 servings for the table
Hands-on time: 20 min.
Total time: 25 min.

1 cup shredded carrots

1 cup Pickled Japanese Turnips with Shiso, coarsely chopped

¼ cup juice from Pickled Japanese Turnips with Shiso

¼ cup sugar

¼ tsp. salt

¼ lb. liverwurst

¼ cup mayonnaise

½ tsp. freshly ground pepper

8 thin boneless pork loin cutlets (1 lb.)

½ tsp. Chinese five spice

1 Tbsp. dark sesame oil, divided

2 Tbsp. hoisin sauce

2 Tbsp. soy sauce

½ tsp. Asian chili-garlic sauce

2 (8.5-oz.) French bread baguettes (about 16 inches long)

½ cup loosely packed cilantro sprigs

1 cup thinly sliced English cucumber

1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced

4 green leaf lettuce leaves (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toss together first 5 ingredients in a small bowl. Process liverwurst, mayonnaise, and freshly ground pepper in a food processor until smooth.

2. Sprinkle pork evenly with Chinese five spice. Cook 4 pork cutlets in 1 tsp. hot sesame oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat 2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Repeat with remaining pork and 1 tsp. oil.

3. Stir together remaining 1 tsp. sesame oil, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and chili-garlic sauce in a shallow dish. Add cooked pork to sauce, turning to coat.

4. Place baguettes on oven rack, and bake at 350° for 4 minutes or until warm and crisp. Cut each baguette in half crosswise; cut bread halves lengthwise. Spread liverwurst mixture on cut sides of bread. Place turnip mixture, cilantro, cucumber slices, pork cutlets, jalapeño slices, and lettuce on bottom halves of bread; cover with top halves of bread.

NOTE: Omit the carrots from this Vietnamese-style sandwich, and substitute Asian-Style Carrot and Daikon Pickles and their juice for the pickled turnips and juice if you prefer.

QUICK KOHLRABI PICKLES

These refrigerator pickles are a fun way to introduce newbies to kohlrabi, the peppery vegetable that resembles an alien. You can use green kohlrabi as well, but using purple kohlrabi and leaving the skin on yields pickles that are faintly pink.

Makes: 2 (1-pt.) jars for the fridge
Hands-on time: 20 min.
Total time: 30 min., plus 1 day standing time

2 small (3-inch-diameter) purple kohlrabi

4 dill sprigs

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

¼ cup sugar

1 cup cider vinegar (5% acidity)

2 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. dill seeds

1. Wash kohlrabi; trim off and discard root end, stems, leaves, and any surface blemishes. Quarter kohlrabi. Cut quarters into ⅛-inch slices using a V-slicer or mandoline. Stack slices, and cut into ⅛-inch-thick julienne strips using a mandoline or knife.

2. Place 2 dill sprigs in each of 2 clean (1-pt.) jars or nonreactive containers with lids. Tightly pack kohlrabi in jars, leaving ½-inch headspace.

3. Bring remaining ingredients and 2 cups water to boil in a 1½-qt. stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar and salt dissolve. Pour hot vinegar mixture over vegetables to cover. Apply lids. Chill 24 hours before serving. Store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks.

ASIAN-STYLE CARROT AND DAIKON PICKLES

Large carrots (easier to julienne with a mandoline) work best for this recipe. Use two chiles per jar if you prefer spicier pickles.

Makes: 4 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 30 min.
Total time: 30 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

1 lb. large carrots

1 lb. daikon radishes

2 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

1 cup sugar

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

8 garlic cloves

4 Tbsp. coriander seeds

4 to 8 small dried red chiles (such as bird’s beak peppers or pequin chiles)

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, peel carrots and radishes, and cut into ⅛-inch-thick julienne strips using a mandoline or knife.

3. Bring 2 cups water, vinegar, sugar, salt, ginger, and garlic to a boil in a 6-qt. stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven.

4. Place 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, 1 to 2 chiles, 2 garlic cloves, and one-fourth of the ginger slices in each hot jar. Pack carrots and radishes tightly in jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover vegetables with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 5 minutes.

PICKLED OKRA

Okra shrink and float when pickled. To get the most in each jar, pack one layer of okra with stem ends down and tips up and another layer with stem ends up and tips down, interlacing the tips in the middle of the jar.

Makes: 5 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 20 min.
Total time: 50 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

3 lb. (2½- to 3-inch) okra pods

3 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

⅓ cup canning-and-pickling salt

2 tsp. dill seeds

5 garlic cloves, peeled

3 small fresh hot red peppers, halved (optional)

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, wash okra and trim stems, leaving caps intact. Combine vinegar, salt, dill seeds, and 3 cups water in large stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil.

3. Place 1 garlic clove and, if desired, 1 hot pepper half in each hot jar. Pack okra pods tightly in jars, placing some stem end down and some stem end up and leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover okra with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace.

4. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

PICKLED PEPPERS & ONIONS

This medley of bell peppers and red onion is the perfect accompaniment to a sandwich or an appetizer tray.

Makes: 3 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 58 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 8 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

1 cup (¼-inch-thick) red onion slices

2 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

¾ cup sugar

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

1 tsp. dried crushed red pepper

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-thick strips

1 medium yellow bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-thick strips

1 large green bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-thick strips

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, soak onion slices in ice water 10 minutes. Bring vinegar, next 3 ingredients, and 2 cups water to a boil in a 1-qt. stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves.

3. Drain onion slices; pat dry. Toss together onions and bell peppers. Pack vegetables tightly in hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover vegetables with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace.

4. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 5 minutes.

PICKLED ASPARAGUS

You need to trim the asparagus to fit your jars, but you needn’t discard the tender trimmings. Chop them evenly, blanch or sauté, and add to spring pasta or egg dishes.

Makes: 3 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 42 min.
Total time: 42 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

2½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

⅓ cup sugar

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

2 tsp. dried crushed red pepper

1 tsp. pickling spice

3¼ lb. fresh asparagus (about 3 large bunches)

6 dill sprigs

3 garlic cloves

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, bring 2 cups water, vinegar, and next 4 ingredients to a boil in a 3-qt. stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar and salt dissolve.

3. Rinse asparagus; snap off and discard tough ends of asparagus. Trim spears to 4-inch lengths (to fit jars). Place 2 dill sprigs and 1 garlic clove in each hot jar. Tightly pack asparagus, cut ends down, in jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace.

4. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

GREEN TOMATO-HOT PEPPER PICKLES

Eat these spicy-tart pickles straight up, or pulse them in a food processor to make a quick salsa. If you prefer milder pickles, gently tap the cut peppers to shake out some of the seeds before adding the peppers to the jars.

Makes: 6 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 40 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 35 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

2½ lb. green tomatoes (about 7 medium), cut into eighths

1 lb. yellow, green, and orange hot banana peppers (Hungarian wax), cut into ½-inch rings

1 lb. Anaheim peppers, cut into ½-inch rings

1 small onion, sliced (1¼ cups)

4 tsp. canning-and-pickling salt, divided

4 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

½ cup sugar

1 Tbsp. pickling spice

1 Tbsp. mustard seeds

6 small garlic cloves

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, toss together first 4 ingredients and 3 tsp. salt in a very large bowl. Let stand 20 minutes. Drain.

3. Bring vinegar, sugar, remaining 1 tsp. salt, and 2 cups water to a boil in a 12-qt. stainless steel or enameled stockpot, stirring until sugar dissolves.

4. Place ½ tsp. pickling spice, ½ tsp. mustard seeds, and 1 garlic clove in each hot jar. Using a slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to hot jars, packing tightly and leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover vegetables with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on pages, processing 15 minutes.

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER

Add this sweet-and-spicy cauliflower to a muffuletta sandwich, or use to round out a meat-and-cheese tray.

Makes: 3 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 42 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 12 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

1 large head cauliflower

2 tsp. canning-and-pickling salt

2¼ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

1 cup sugar

1 cup thin onion slices

½ cup diced red bell pepper

1 Tbsp. mustard seeds

1½ tsp. celery seeds

½ tsp. ground turmeric

½ tsp. dried crushed red pepper

1. Rinse cauliflower, and cut into 1- to 2-inch florets to measure 6 cups. Bring 2 qt. water and salt to a boil in a 6-qt. saucepan. Add cauliflower; blanch 3 minutes. Drain and cool.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. While jars are boiling, combine vinegar and next 7 ingredients in a large stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes. Stir drained cauliflower into vinegar-vegetable mixture to distribute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer hot vegetables to hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover vegetables with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace.

4. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

PICKLED RED ONIONS

To get thin slices rather than rings for these pickles, cut onions in half vertically, slicing through the root. Then, peel, trim and thinly slice each half radially, cutting from top end to root end. For serious satisfaction, tuck some of the finished pickles into your favorite grilled cheese sandwich.

Makes: 7 (½-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 30 min.
Total time: 1 hour, plus 3 weeks standing time

2 cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

¾ cup sugar

2 Tbsp. canning-and-pickling salt

8 cups thin slices red onion (about 3 lb.)

1¾ tsp. whole allspice

1¾ tsp. mustard seeds

7 small bay leaves

7 (3-inch) thyme sprigs

7 small dried red chiles (such as bird’s beak peppers or pequin chiles)

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, combine first 3 ingredients and 1½ cups water in a large stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven; bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt. Add sliced onion to vinegar mixture; reduce heat, and simmer 6 minutes, uncovered, or until onion just begins to soften.

3. Place ¼ tsp. allspice, ¼ tsp. mustard seeds, 1 bay leaf, 1 thyme sprig, and 1 chile pepper in each hot jar. Using tongs, transfer onion to hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover onion with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

PICKLED RAINBOW CARROTS WITH CORIANDER

At farmers’ markets and specialty grocers these days, carrots come in a rainbow of shades. In pickling them all, we discovered a fun fact: Putting even one purple carrot in a jar lends some extra red color to the other carrots, making them more vibrantly orange and orange-red.

Makes: 3 to 4 (1-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 1 hour, 5 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 20 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

3½ lb. small (3- to 5-inch) purple, orange, yellow, and white carrots with tops

3½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

¼ cup canning-and-pickling salt

2 tsp. coriander seeds

3 to 4 garlic cloves

8 dill sprigs

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, wash and peel carrots; trim green tops to ¼ inch, and trim any carrots that are longer than 4 inches (so that they’ll fit comfortably within the jars). Cut carrots in half lengthwise.

3. Combine vinegar, salt, and 1 cup water in a 4-qt. stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until salt dissolves; reduce heat, and simmer until ready to fill jars.

4. Place ½ tsp. coriander seeds, 1 garlic clove, and 2 dill sprigs in each hot jar. Pack jars tightly with carrots. Cover carrots with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 15 minutes.

5. Remove jars from water and let stand, undisturbed, at room temperature 24 hours. To check seals, remove the bands, and press down on the center of each lid. If the lid doesn’t move, the jar is sealed. If the lid depresses and pops up again, the jar is not sealed. Store properly sealed jars in a cool, dark place 3 weeks before tasting. Store jars in a cool, dark place up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening.

PICKLED CHERRIES

Warm spices and a sweet-tart brine make these cherries ideal with duck or pork. Chop a few and add to a cream-cheese-topped biscuit with country ham for a sweet and salty Southern canapé.

Makes: 7 (½-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 37 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 7 min., plus 3 weeks standing time

2½ cups white vinegar (5% acidity)

2 cups sugar

2 Tbsp. canning-and-pickling salt

1 vanilla bean, split

7 whole cloves

7 star anise

7 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks

2½ lb. fresh dark sweet cherries, washed, stemmed, and pitted

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, stir together first 3 ingredients in a medium stainless steel saucepan. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean; add seeds and bean to vinegar mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar and salt dissolve.

3. Place 1 clove, 1 star anise, and 1 cinnamon stick in each hot jar. Pack cherries tightly into jars, leaving ½-inch headspace (about 12 cherries in each jar). Remove vanilla bean from pan; discard. Cover cherries with hot pickling liquid, leaving ½-inch headspace. Seal and process jars as described on these pages, processing 10 minutes.

NOTE: Use a cherry pitter or a large paper clip to pit cherries while leaving them whole.

REFRIGERATOR PICKLED WATERMELON RIND

Use your melon like a Southerner: Eat the flesh, and pickle the rind. Pack these pickles into pint jars and give one to a friend, or tuck them all into a single quart for yourself.

Makes: 2 (1-pt.) jars or 1 (1-qt.) jar for the fridge
Hands-on time: 30 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 35 min., plus 2 days chilling time

½ small red watermelon (about 5 lb.)

3 Tbsp. salt

¾ cup sugar

¾ cup white vinegar (5% acidity)

2 star anise

1. Place watermelon cut side down on a work surface; slice into ¾-inch slices. Trim all but ¼ inch red flesh from slices. Reserve flesh for another use. Remove outer green layer of rind using a vegetable peeler; discard. Cut rind slices crosswiseinto 1-inch lengths. (You should have about 5 cups.) Place in a large bowl.

2. Stir together salt and 3 cups water; pour over rind. Cover and chill 24 hours. Drain; rinse well.

3. Combine rind, sugar, vinegar, and ¾ cup water in a 4-qt. stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. Cool completely (about 1 hour), stirring occasionally.

4. Place star anise in clean jars. Using a slotted spoon, transfer rind to jars; cover with pickling liquid. Apply lids. Chill 24 hours before serving. Store in refrigerator up to 1 week.

FIERY PEACH SALSA

Habanero pepper makes this salsa extra spicy. Peaches and sugar cut the heat (a little). Try it with tortilla chips or our terrific duck tacos.

Makes: 7 (½-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 42 min.
Total time: 1 hour, 2 min.

6 cups peeled, diced hard, underripe peaches

1 cup sugar

1 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 cup cider vinegar (5% acidity)

½ cup chopped red onion

¼ cup bottled lime juice

¼ tsp. salt

2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped (2 Tbsp.)

2 garlic cloves, minced (1 Tbsp.)

1 habanero pepper, seeded and minced (1 Tbsp.)

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

2. While jars are boiling, combine all ingredients, except cilantro, in an 8-qt. stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven. Add ½ cup water; bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat, and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in cilantro.

3. Fill, seal, and process jars as described on these pages, leaving ½-inch headspace and processing 10 minutes.

SEARED DUCK TACOS WITH FIERY PEACH SALSA

Makes: 4 servings for the table
Hands-on time: 23 min.
Total time: 23 min.

4 boned duck breasts (1½ lb.)

¾ tsp. garlic salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground pepper

8 (6-inch) corn-flour blend tortillas

1 cup loosely packed arugula

1 cup Fiery Peach Salsa

2 oz. crumbled goat cheese

1. Sprinkle duck with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add duck, skin side down, to skillet. Cook 6 minutes on each side or to desired degree of doneness. Remove duck from pan. Let stand 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, wrap tortillas in a damp paper towel. Microwave at HIGH 30 seconds or until warm. Remove skin from duck, and cut diagonally across the grain into thin slices. Fill tortillas evenly with duck slices, arugula, salsa, and cheese; fold in half.

NOTE: We tested with Don Pancho half-flour, half-corn tortillas.

GRILLED VEGETABLE RELISH

This smoky relish is delicious with grilled salmon, chicken, and flank steak. It also makes a wonderful addition to burritos and omelets.

Makes: 3 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 1 hour, 41 min.
Total time: 2 hours, 21 min., plus 1 day standing time

3 garlic bulbs

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

3 large dried chipotle peppers

4½ lb. plum tomatoes (16 large), halved lengthwise and seeded

8 oz. shallots (4 large), peeled and cut in half lengthwise

2 lb. onions (about 3 medium), peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

¾ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¾ cup fresh lime juice (about 4 limes)

1½ tsp. salt

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Cut off pointed end of each garlic bulb. Place each bulb on a 6-inch piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with 1 tsp. oil, and wrap with foil. Bake at 425° for 30 minutes; let cool 10 minutes. Squeeze pulp from garlic bulbs into a food processor.

2. While garlic bakes, remove stem and seeds from chipotle peppers; place in a small bowl, and cover with boiling water. Let stand 30 minutes; drain, discarding liquid. Coarsely chop peppers.

3. Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Place tomato halves and shallots in a large bowl. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp. oil, and toss gently to coat. Brush onion slices with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Working in 2 batches, place onion slices, shallot halves, and tomato halves skin side down on grill. Grill 10 minutes or until tomato skins are blistered and beginning to char and onion and shallots are tender, turning halfway through. Transfer to a large bowl. Let cool 10 minutes.

4. Remove skins from tomatoes. Chop onion slices and shallots into large pieces; place in a large bowl, and toss well. Add chipotle peppers, and one-third of tomato-and-onion mixture (including any accumulated juices) to roasted garlic in food processor; pulse 5 times or until chopped, then pour into a 4-qt. stainless steel saucepan. Repeat procedure twice with remaining tomato and onion mixture.

5. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described. While jars are boiling, bring tomato mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally; remove from heat. Stir in cilantro and next 2 ingredients.

6. Fill, seal, and process jars as described on these pages, leaving ½-inch headspace and processing 15 minutes.

7. Remove jars from water, and let stand, undisturbed, at room temperature 24 hours. To check seals, remove the bands, and press down on the center of each lid. If the lid doesn’t move, the jar is sealed. If the lid depresses and pops up again, the jar is not sealed. Store properly sealed jars in a cool, dark place up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO CHUTNEY

Tangy, spicy, and sweet, here’s a chutney to pair with goat cheese, bacon, and chicken.

Makes: 4 (½-pt.) widemouthed jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 1 hour, 54 min.
Total time: 2 hours, 4 min.

4¾ lb. red heirloom tomatoes

1 large onion, cut into eighths

1 cup sugar

⅔ cup white vinegar (5% acidity)

¾ tsp. dried crushed red pepper

¾ tsp. ground allspice

½ tsp. salt

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. While jars are boiling, pulse onion in a food processor in batches until chopped to measure 2 cups. Place onion in a 4-qt. stainless steel saucepan.

4. Process tomato quarters and any accumulated juices in food processor in 2 batches just until chopped. Add chopped tomato and juices to onion. Add sugar and remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, uncovered, 1 hour and 5 minutes or until mixture is thick and reduced to 4 cups, stirring often.

5. Fill, seal, and process jars as described on these pages, leaving ¼-inch headspace and processing 10 minutes.

6. Remove jars from water, and let stand, undisturbed, at room temperature 24 hours. To check seals, remove the bands, and press down on the center of each lid. If the lid doesn’t move, the jar is sealed. If the lid depresses and pops up again, the jar is not sealed. Store properly sealed jars in a cool, dark place up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening.

GREEN TOMATO CHOWCHOW

Makes: 4 (½-pt.) jars for the fridge
Hands-on time: 35 min.
Total time: 45 min., plus 1 day for chilling

6 cups coarsely chopped green tomatoes (2 lb.)

2 cups chopped Vidalia onion (1 large)

½ cup diced red bell pepper

⅓ cup seeded and minced red jalapeño pepper

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 cup cider vinegar (5% acidity)

⅔ cup sugar

1 tsp. dried crushed red pepper

2 tsp. sorghum syrup

½ tsp. celery seeds

1. Working in batches, pulse tomatoes and onion in a food processor 15 times or just until finely chopped. Transfer to a 6-qt. stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven. Stir in peppers and salt. Cover and chill 8 to 24 hours.

2. Uncover and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Pour through a wire-mesh strainer into a bowl, pressing with back of a spoon to release liquid. Discard liquid; return solids to Dutch oven.

3. Add remaining ingredients; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil, stirring occasionally, 3 minutes or until liquid evaporates. Spoon into clean jars or other heatproof, nonreactive containers with lids. Let cool slightly. Cover and chill; store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks.

BEER-BATTERED GROUPER WITH GREEN TOMATO CHOWCHOW

Makes: 6 servings for the table
Hands-on time: 24 min.
Total time: 24 min.

Vegetable oil

6 (6-oz.) grouper fillets

¾ tsp. salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups all-purpose flour

¼ cup self-rising white cornmeal mix

⅓ tsp. ground red pepper

1 (12-oz.) bottle lager beer

1½ cups Green Tomato Chowchow

1. Pour oil to depth of 3 inches into a large Dutch oven; heat to 375°. Sprinkle fish evenly with salt and black pepper.

2. Combine flour, cornmeal mix, and red pepper in a large bowl. Whisk in beer. Dip fish in batter, allowing excess to drip off.

3. Fry fish, in 2 batches, 6 minutes or until golden brown (do not turn). Drain fish on a wire rack over paper towels. Serve fish with Green Tomato Chowchow.

MEDITERRANEAN-STYLE TOMATOES

The hint of cinnamon makes these tomatoes ideal for pastitsio, moussaka, eggplant Parmesan, and chili.

Makes: 4 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 1 hour, 33 min.
Total time: 2 hours, 36 min., plus 1 week standing time

6 lb. firm ripe red heirloom tomatoes

1 Tbsp. salt

2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks

8 garlic cloves, pressed

2 Tbsp. minced fresh oregano

¼ cup bottled lemon juice

1. Cut a large “X” in bottom of each tomato. Working in batches, place tomatoes in a wire basket, and lower into a large pot of boiling water. Blanch 30 to 60 seconds or until skins start to split. Dip immediately into ice water; drain. Working over an 8-qt. stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven to collect juices, remove skins, and cut out cores; cut tomatoes into 1½-inch chunks, and add to Dutch oven. Stir in salt, cinnamon sticks, and garlic. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Uncover and boil 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; let stand, covered, 30 minutes.

2. Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

3. Stir oregano into tomato mixture; return to a boil. Remove and discard cinnamon sticks. Stir lemon juice into tomato mixture.

4. Fill, seal, and process jars as described on these pages, leaving ½-inch headspace and processing 35 minutes.

CHUNKY MARINARA SAUCE WITH RED WINE

One good tomato haul yields a few potent jars of this tasty sauce. If you have an abundance of tomatoes and four burners, you can prepare up to three batches, each in its own Dutch oven, concurrently, and process the jars for all three batches in the same canning pot. If you have more freezer space than time to can, you can freeze this delicious sauce in zip-top plastic freezer bags.

Makes: 3 (1-pt.) jars for the shelf
Hands-on time: 1 hour, 50 min.
Total time: 6 hours, plus 1 day standing time

10 lb. firm, ripe tomatoes

1½ cups chopped onions

¾ cup shredded carrot (about 2 medium)

⅓ cup finely chopped fresh basil

3 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

5 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup dry red wine

3 Tbsp. bottled lemon juice

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2¼ tsp. salt

1 tsp. sugar

½ tsp. freshly ground pepper

1. Cut a large “X” in bottom of each tomato. Working in batches, place tomatoes in a wire basket, and lower into a large pot of boiling water. Blanch 30 to 60 seconds or until skins start to split. Dip immediately into ice water; drain. Working over an 8-qt. stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven to collect juices, remove skins, and cut out cores; halve tomatoes, and add to Dutch oven. Reserving seeds in Dutch oven, seed and chop enough of the tomatoes to equal 3 cups of ½-inch dice. Set aside diced tomatoes in a large bowl. Add onion and next 4 ingredients to Dutch oven. Cover and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat, and simmer 1 hour. Remove from heat and cool 10 minutes.

2. Puree cooked mixture in batches in food processor until smooth. Pour through a fine wire-mesh strainer into the bowl with the diced tomatoes, pressing mixture with a wooden spoon to release juices. Discard seeds and any remaining pulp. Pour tomato mixture into Dutch oven; add wine and next 5 ingredients. Partially cover and cook over low heat about 2 hours or until mixture reduces to 6 cups, stirring occasionally to keep from scorching.

3. During the last 20 minutes of cooking, Sterilize jars, and prepare lids as described.

4. Fill, seal, and process jars as described on theses pages, leaving ¼-inch headspace and processing 45 minutes.