København
Copenhagen, Denmark’s capital, is the gateway to Scandinavia. It’s an improbable combination of corny Danish clichés, well-dressed executives having a business lunch amid cutting-edge contemporary architecture, and some of the funkiest counterculture in Europe. And yet, it all just works so tidily together. With the Øresund Bridge connecting Sweden and Denmark (creating the region’s largest metropolitan area), Copenhagen is energized and ready to dethrone Stockholm as Scandinavia’s powerhouse city.
A busy day cruising the canals, wandering through the palace, and taking an old-town walk will give you your historical bearings. Then, after another day strolling the Strøget (STROY-et, Europe’s first and greatest pedestrian shopping mall), biking the canals, and sampling the Danish good life (including a gooey “Danish” pastry), you’ll feel right at home. Live it up in Scandinavia’s cheapest and most fun-loving capital.
A first visit deserves a minimum of two days. Note that many sights are closed on Monday year-round or in the off-season.
Day 1: Catch a 9:30 city walking tour with Richard Karpen (Mon-Sat mid-May-mid-Sept). After lunch, catch the relaxing canal-boat tour out to The Little Mermaid and back. Enjoy the rest of the afternoon tracing Denmark’s cultural roots in the National Museum and visiting the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art gallery (Impressionists and Danish artists). Spend the evening following my “Copenhagen City Walk” and strolling with Copenhageners at the same time.
If you study your map carefully, you can read the history of Copenhagen in today’s street plan. København (literally, “Merchants’ Harbor”) was born on the little island of Slotsholmen—today home to Christiansborg Palace—in 1167. What was Copenhagen’s medieval moat is now a string of pleasant lakes and parks, including Tivoli Gardens. You can still make out some of the zigzag pattern of the moats and ramparts in the city’s greenbelt.
Many of these fortifications—and several other landmarks—were built by Denmark’s most memorable king. You need to remember only one character in Copenhagen’s history: Christian IV. Ruling from 1588 to 1648, he was Denmark’s Renaissance king and a royal party animal (see the “King Christian IV” sidebar, later). The personal energy of this “Builder King” sparked a Golden Age when Copenhagen prospered and many of the city’s grandest buildings were erected. In the 17th century, Christian IV extended the city fortifications to the north, doubling the size of the city, while adding a grid plan of streets and his Rosenborg Castle. This “new town” was the district around the Amalienborg Palace.
In 1850, Copenhagen’s 140,000 residents all lived within this defensive system. Building in the no-man’s-land outside the walls was only allowed with the understanding that in the event of an attack, you’d burn your dwellings to clear the way for a good defense.
Most of the city’s historic buildings still in existence were built within the medieval walls, but conditions became too crowded, and outbreaks of disease forced Copenhagen to spread outside the walls. Ultimately those walls were torn down and replaced with “rampart streets” that define today’s city center: Vestervoldgade (literally, “West Rampart Street”), Nørrevoldgade (“North”), and Østervoldgade (“East”). The fourth side is the harbor and the island of Slotsholmen, where København was born.
Day 2: At 10:00, go Neoclassical at Thorvaldsen’s Museum, and tour the royal reception rooms at the adjacent Christiansborg Palace. After a smørrebrød lunch, spend the afternoon seeing Rosenborg Castle, with Denmark’s crown jewels. Spend the evening at Tivoli Gardens.
Christiania—the hippie squatters’ community—is not for everyone. But it’s worth considering if you’re intrigued by alternative lifestyles, or simply want a break from museums. During a busy trip, Christiania fits best in the evening.
Budget Itinerary Tip: Remember the efficiency and cost-effectiveness of sleeping while traveling in and out of town (saving time and hotel costs). Consider taking a night train to Sweden with connections to Stockholm, or cruise up to Oslo on a night boat. Kamikaze sightseers on tight budgets see Copenhagen as a useful Scandinavian bottleneck. They sleep heading into town on a train, tour the city during the day, and sleep on a boat or train as they travel north to their next destination. At the end of their Scandinavian travels, they do the same thing in reverse. The result is two days and no nights in Copenhagen (you can check your bag and take a shower at the train station). Considering the joy of Oslo and Stockholm, this isn’t all that crazy if you have limited time and can sleep on a moving train or boat.
Copenhagen is huge (with 1.2 million people), but for most visitors, the walkable core is the diagonal axis formed by the train station, Tivoli Gardens, Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square), and the Strøget pedestrian street, ending at the colorful old Nyhavn sailors’ harbor. Bubbling with street life, colorful pedestrian zones, and most of the city’s sightseeing, the Strøget is fun. But also be sure to get off the main drag and explore. By doing things by bike or on foot, you’ll stumble upon some charming bits of Copenhagen that many travelers miss. The city feels pretty torn up, as they are deep into a multiyear Metro expansion project, which will add 17 stations to their already impressive system.
Outside of the old city center are three areas of interest to tourists:
• To the north are Rosenborg Castle and Amalienborg Palace, with The Little Mermaid nearby.
• To the east, across the harbor, are Christianshavn (Copenhagen’s “Little Amsterdam” district) and the alternative enclave of Christiania.
• To the west (behind the train station) is Vesterbro, a young and trendy part of town with lots of cafés, bars, and boutiques; the hip Meatpacking District (Kødbyen); and the Carlsberg Brewery (plus the picnic-friendly Frederiksberg Park).
All of these sights are walkable from the Strøget, but taking a bike, bus, or taxi is more efficient. I rent a bike for my entire visit (for about the cost of a single cab ride per day) and park it safely in my hotel courtyard. I get anywhere in the town center faster than by taxi (nearly anything is within a 10-minute pedal). In good weather, the city is an absolute delight by bike (for more on biking in Copenhagen, see “Getting Around Copenhagen: By Bike,” later).
Copenhagen’s questionable excuse for a TI, which bills itself as “Wonderful Copenhagen,” is actually a blatantly for-profit company. As in a (sadly) increasing number of big European cities, it provides information only about businesses that pay a hefty display fee of thousands of dollars each year. This colors the advice and information the office provides. While they can answer basic questions, the office is worthwhile mostly as a big rack of advertising brochures—you can pick up the free map at many hotels and other places in town (May-June Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 9:00-14:00; July-Aug daily 9:00-19:00; Sept-April Mon-Fri 9:00-16:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, closed Sun; just up the street from train station—to the left as you exit the station—at Vesterbrogade 4A, good Lagkagehuset bakery in building, tel. 70 22 24 42, www.visitcopenhagen.com).
Copenhagen Card: This card includes entry to many of the city’s sights (including expensive ones, like Tivoli and Rosenborg Castle) and all local transportation throughout the greater Copenhagen area. It can save busy sightseers some money; if you’re planning on visiting a lot of attractions with steep entry prices, do the arithmetic to see if buying this pass adds up (339 kr/24 hours, 469 kr/48 hours, 559 kr/72 hours, 779 kr/120 hours—sold at the TI and some hotels).
Alternative Sources of Tourist Information: As the TI’s bottom line competes with its mission to help tourists, you may want to seek out other ways to inform yourself. The weekly English-language newspaper, The Copenhagen Post, has good articles about what’s going on in town (often available free at TI or some hotels, or buy it at a newsstand, www.cphpost.dk). The witty alternative website, www.aok.dk, has several articles in English (and many more in Danish—readable and very insightful if you translate them online).
The main train station is called Hovedbanegården (HOETH-bahn-gorn; look for København H on signs and schedules). It’s a temple of travel and a hive of travel-related activity (and 24-hour thievery). Kiosks and fast-food eateries cluster in the middle of the main arrivals hall. The ticket office is on the left (as you face the front of the hall), and a train information kiosk is right in the middle of the hall.
Within the station, you’ll find baggage storage (go down stairs at back of station marked Bagagebokse; lockers and checkroom/garderobe both open long hours daily); pay WCs (right side of station, near ticket offices); a post office (back of station, Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-16:00); a branch of the recommended Lagkagehuset bakery (front of station); and lots more. At both the front and the back of the station, you’ll find ATMs and Forex exchange desks (the least expensive place in town to change money, daily 8:00-21:00).
The tracks at the back of the station (tracks 9-10 and 11-12) are for the suburban train (S-tog). The military music you may hear playing at the back end of the station is to keep the street riff-raff from hanging out in that area (they can’t handle march music).
Tickets: While you’re in the station, you can plan for your departure by reserving your overnight train seat or couchette at the Billetsalg office (Mon-Fri 7:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-18:00). Some international rides and high-speed InterCity trains require reservations (usually 25-55 kr), but rail-pass holders can ride any Danish train without a reservation.
Getting into Town: If you want to get right to sightseeing, you’re within easy walking distance of downtown. Just walk out the front door and you’ll run into one of the entrances for Tivoli amusement park; if you go around its left side and up a couple of blocks, you’ll be at Rådhuspladsen, where my “Copenhagen City Walk” begins.
Hotels are scattered far and wide around town. It’s best to get arrival instructions from your hotelier, but if you’re on your own, here are some tips:
To reach hotels behind the station, slip out the back door—just go down the stairs at the back of the station marked Reventlowsgade.
For hotels near Nørreport (Ibsens and Jørgensen), ride the S-tog from the station two stops to Nørreport, within about a 10-minute walk of the hotels. Bus #14 also runs from near the train station to Nørreport.
For hotels near Nyhavn (71 Nyhavn and Bethel Sømandshjem), you can take the S-tog to Nørreport, then transfer to the Metro one stop to Kongens Nytorv, within a 10-minute walk of Nyhavn. Or you can take bus #11A (or #26 from around the corner) to Kongens Nytorv.
Note: If you’re staying near Nørreport (or near Nyhavn, an easy Metro connection from Nørreport), check the train schedule carefully; many local trains (such as some from Roskilde and those from the airport) continue through the main train station to Nørreport Station, saving you an extra step.
Copenhagen’s international airport is a traveler’s dream, with a TI, baggage check, bank, ATMs, post office, shopping mall, grocery store, bakery, and more (airport code: CPH, airport info tel. 32 31 32 31, www.cph.dk). The three check-in terminals are within walking distance of each other (departures screens tell you which terminal to go to). On arrival, all flights feed into one big lobby in Terminal 3. When you pop out here, a TI kiosk is on your left, taxis are out the door on your right, trains are straight ahead, and shops and eateries fill the atrium above you. You can use dollars or euros at the airport, but you’ll get change back in kroner.
Getting Between the Airport and Downtown: Your options include the Metro, trains, and taxis. There are also buses into town, but the train/Metro is generally better.
The Metro runs directly from the airport to Christianshavn, Kongens Nytorv (near Nyhavn), and Nørreport, making it the best choice for getting into town if you’re staying in any of these areas (36-kr three-zone ticket, yellow M2 line, direction: Vanløse, 4-10/hour, 11 minutes to Christianshavn). The Metro station is located at the end of Terminal 3 and is covered by the roof of the terminal.
Convenient trains also connect the airport with downtown (36-kr three-zone ticket, covered by rail pass, 4/hour, 12 minutes). Buy your ticket from the ground-level ticket booth (look for DSB: Tickets for Train, Metro & Bus signs) before riding the escalator down to the tracks. Track 2 has trains going into the city (track 1 is for trains going east, to Sweden). Trains into town stop at the main train station (signed København H; handy if you’re sleeping at my recommended hotels behind the train station), as well as the Nørreport and Østerport stations. At Nørreport, you can connect to the Metro for Kongens Nytorv (near Nyhavn) and Christianshavn.
With the train/Metro trip being so quick, frequent, and cheap, I see no reason to take a taxi. But if you do, taxis are fast, civil, accept credit cards, and charge about 250-300 kr for a ride to the town center.
For information on Copenhagen’s cruise terminals, see the end of this chapter.
Emergencies: Dial 112 and specify fire, police, or ambulance. Emergency calls from public phones are free.
Pharmacy: Steno Apotek is across from the train station (open 24 hours, Vesterbrogade 6C, tel. 33 14 82 66).
Blue Monday: As you plan, remember that most sights close on Monday, but these attractions remain open: Amalienborg Museum (closed Mon Nov-April), Christiansborg Palace (closed Mon Oct-April), City Hall, Museum of Copenhagen, Rosenborg Castle (closed Mon Nov-April), Round Tower, Royal Library, Our Savior’s Church, Tivoli Gardens (generally closed late Sept-mid-April), Harbor Baths, and all of the various tours (canal, bus, walking, and bike). You can explore Christiania, but Monday is its rest day so it’s unusually quiet and some restaurants are closed.
Internet Access: Wi-Fi is easy to find in Copenhagen (available free at virtually all hotels and many cafés). If you need a terminal with Internet access, you can get online for free at the Copenhagen Central Library (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun, midway between Nørreport and the Strøget at Krystalgade 15) and “Black Diamond” library. The Telestation call shop behind the train station offers pay Internet terminals (kitty-corner from TI, Mon-Fri 10:00-19:30, Sat 10:00-16:30, closed Sun, Banegårdspladsen 1, tel. 33 93 00 02).
Laundry: Pams Møntvask is a good coin-op laundry near Nørreport (wash-31 kr/load, soap-6 kr, dry-2 kr/minute, daily 6:00-21:00, 50 yards from Ibsens Hotel at 86 Nansensgade). Tre Stjernet Møntvask (“Three Star Laundry”) is several blocks past the Meatpacking District (wash-27 kr/load, soap-5 kr, dry-1 kr/1.5 minutes, daily 6:00-21:00, Sønder Boulevard 97). Vaskel is wash, torring is dry, and sæbe is soap.
Ferries: While in Copenhagen, book any ferries that you plan to take in Scandinavia. Visit a travel agent or book directly with the ferry company. For the Copenhagen-Oslo overnight ferry, contact DFDS or visit the DSB Rejsebureau at the main train station.
Jazz Festival: The Copenhagen Jazz Festival—10 days in early July—puts the town in a rollicking slide-trombone mood. The Danes are Europe’s jazz enthusiasts, and this music festival fills the town with happiness. The TI prints up an extensive listing of each year’s festival events, or get the latest at www.jazz.dk. There’s also a winter jazz festival in February.
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check www.ricksteves.com/update.
It’s easy to navigate Copenhagen, with its fine buses, Metro, and S-tog (a suburban train system with stops in the city; rail passes valid on S-tog). For a helpful website that covers public-transport options (nationwide) in English, consult www.rejseplanen.dk.
Tickets: The same tickets are used throughout the system. A 24-kr, two-zone ticket gets you an hour’s travel within the center—pay as you board buses, or buy from station ticket offices, convenience stores, or vending machines for the Metro. (Ticket machines may not accept American credit cards, but I was able to use an American debit card with a PIN, and most machines also take Danish cash; if you want to use your credit card and the machine won’t take it, find a cashier.) Assume you’ll be within the middle two zones unless traveling to or from the airport, which requires a three-zone ticket (36 kr).
One handy option is the blue, two-zone klippekort, which can be shared—for example, two people can take five rides each (150 kr for 10 rides, insert it in the validation box each time you board a train and it’ll snip off one of your rides).
If you’re traveling exclusively in central Copenhagen, the City Pass is a good value (80 kr/24 hours, 200 kr/72 hours, covers travel within zones 1-4, including the airport). To travel throughout the greater Copenhagen region—including side-trips to Roskilde, Frederiksborg Castle, Louisiana Art Museum, and Kronborg Castle—you’ll need to pay more for a “24-hour ticket” (130 kr) or a “7-day FlexCard” (245 kr—can be a good value even for less than a week). All passes are sold at stations, the TI, 7-Elevens, and other kiosks. Validate any all-day or multi-day ticket by stamping it in the yellow machine on the bus or at the station.
Buses: While the train system is slick (Metro and S-tog, described later), its usefulness is limited for the typical tourist—but buses serve all of the major sights in town every five to eight minutes during daytime hours. If you’re not riding a bike everywhere, get comfortable with the buses. Bus drivers are patient, have change, and speak English. City maps list bus routes. Locals are usually friendly and helpful. There’s also a floating “Harbor Bus.”
Bus lines that end with “A” (such as #1A) use quiet, eco-friendly, electric buses that are smaller than normal buses, allowing access into the narrower streets of the old town. Designed for tourists, these provide an easy overview to the city center. Among these, the following are particularly useful:
Bus #1A loops from the train station up to Kongens Nytorv (near Nyhavn) and then farther north, to Østerport.
Bus #2A goes from Christianshavn to the city center, then onward to points west.
Bus #5A connects the station more or less directly to Nørreport.
Bus #6A also connects the station to Nørreport, but on a much more roundabout route that twists through the central core (with several sightseeing-handy stops).
Bus #11A does a big loop from the train station through the core of town up to Nørreport, then down to Nyhavn before retracing its steps back via Nørreport to the train station.
Other, non-“A” buses, which are bigger and tend to be more direct, can be faster for some trips:
Bus #14 runs from Nørreport (and near my recommended hotels) down to the city center, stopping near the Strøget, and eventually going near the main train station.
Bus #26 runs a handy route right through the main tourist zone: train station/Tivoli to Slotsholmen Island to Kongens Nytorv (near Nyhavn) to the Amalienborg Palace/Little Mermaid area. It continues even farther north to the city’s three main cruise ports, but the line splits, so check with the driver to make sure you’re on the right bus.
Bus #66 goes from Nyhavn to Slotsholmen Island to Tivoli.
Metro: Copenhagen’s Metro line, while simple, is super-futuristic and growing. For most tourists’ purposes, only the airport and three consecutive stops within the city matter: Nørreport (connected every few minutes by the S-tog to the main train station), Kongens Nytorv (near Nyhavn and the Strøget’s north end), and Christianshavn. Nearly all recommended hotels are within walking distance of the main train station or these three stops.
The city is busy at work on the new Cityringen (City Circle) Metro line. When it opens in 2018, the Metro will instantly become far handier for tourists—linking the train station, Rådhuspladsen, Gammel Strand (near Slotsholmen Island), and Kongens Nytorv (near Nyhavn). In the meantime, expect to see massive construction zones at each of those locations. Eventually the Metro will also extend to Ørestad, the industrial and business center created after the Øresund Bridge was built between Denmark and Sweden (for the latest on the Metro, see www.m.dk).
S-tog Train: The S-tog is basically a commuter line that links stations on the main train line through Copenhagen; for those visiting the city, the most important stops are the main train station and Nørreport (where it ties into the Metro system). The S-tog is very handy for reaching many of the outlying sights.
The hop-on, hop-off “Harbor Bus” (Havnebus) boat stops at the “Black Diamond” library, Christianshavn (near Knippels Bridge), Nyhavn, the Opera House, and Nordre Toldbod, which is a short walk from The Little Mermaid site. The boat is part of the city bus system (lines #991 and #992) and covered by the tickets described earlier. Taking a long ride on this boat, from the library to the end of the line, is the “poor man’s cruise”—without commentary, of course (runs 6:00-19:00). Or, for a true sightseeing trip, consider a guided harbor cruise (described later, under “Tours in Copenhagen”).
Taxis are plentiful, easy to call or flag down, and pricey (35-kr pickup charge and then 15 kr/kilometer). For a short ride, four people spend about the same by taxi as by bus. Calling 35 35 35 35 will get you a taxi within minutes...with the meter already well on its way.
Cyclists see more, save time and money, and really feel like locals. With a bike, you have Copenhagen at your command. I’d rather have a bike than a car and driver at my disposal. Virtually every street has a dedicated bike lane (complete with bike signal lights). Warning: Police routinely issue 500-kr tickets to anyone riding on sidewalks or through pedestrian zones. Note also that bikes can’t be parked just anywhere. Observe others and park your bike among other bikes. The simple built-in lock that binds the back tire is adequate.
Renting a Bike: Your best bet for renting a bike is to ask your hotelier first. Many rent (or loan) decent bikes at reasonable rates to guests.
For an (often) better-quality bike and advice from someone with cycle expertise, consider one of these rental outfits in or near the city center.
• Københavens Cyklebørs, near Nørreport Station, has a good selection of three-gear bikes (75 kr/1 day, 140 kr/2 days, 200 kr/3 days, 350 kr/week; Mon-Fri 9:00-17:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00 & 18:00-20:00, closed Sat evening and all day Sun in off-season; Gothersgade 157, tel. 33 14 07 17, www.cykelborsen.dk).
• Cykelbasen, even closer to Nørreport, rents three- and seven-gear bikes (80 kr/day, 400 kr/week, includes lock; Mon-Fri 9:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-14:30, closed Sun; Gothersgade 137, tel. 22 18 06 42, www.cykel-basen.dk, click on “Info”).
• Copenhagen Bicycles, at the entrance to Nyhavn by the Inderhavnsbroen pedestrian/bicycle bridge, rents basic three-gear bikes (70 kr/3 hours, 80 kr/6 hours, 110 kr/24 hours, includes lock, helmet-40 kr, daily 8:30-17:30, Nyhavn 44, tel. 33 93 04 04, http://www.copenhagenbicycles.dk/). They also offer guided tours in English and Danish (100 kr, mid-April-Sept daily at 11:00, 2.5-3 hours).
Using City Bikes: The city’s public bike-rental program, called Bycyklen, lets you ride shiny-white, three-gear “smart bikes” (with built-in GPS and an electric motor, should you need a boost) for 25 kr/hour. You’ll find them parked in racks near the train station, on either side of City Hall, and at many other locations around town. Use the touchscreen on the handlebars to create an account, enter your credit card info, and off you go (but be sure to return the bike to a Bycyklen docking station or face a 200-kr fine). At their website (http://bycyklen.dk), you can locate docking stations, reserve a bike at a specific station, and create an account in advance. I’d use the bikes for a one-way pedal here or there, but for more than a couple of hours, it’s more cost-efficient to rent a regular bicycle.
Copenhagen is an ideal city to get to know by foot. You have several good options:
Once upon a time, American Richard Karpen visited Copenhagen and fell in love with the city. Now, dressed as Hans Christian Andersen in a 19th-century top hat and long coat, he leads 1.5-hour tours that wander in and out of buildings, courtyards, back streets, and unusual parts of the old town. Along the one-mile route, he gives insightful and humorous background on the history, culture, and contemporary life of Denmark, Copenhagen, and the Danes (100 kr, kids under 12 free; departs from the TI, up the street from the main train station at Vesterbrogade 4A—at the corner with Bernstorffsgade; mid-May-mid-Sept Mon-Sat at 9:30, none on Sun; Richard departs promptly—if you miss him try to catch up with the tour at the next stop on Rådhuspladsen).
Richard also gives excellent one-hour tours of Rosenborg Castle, playing the role of a dapper Renaissance “Sir Richard” (90 kr, doesn’t include castle entry, mid-May-mid-Sept Mon and Thu at 12:00, meet outside castle ticket office). No reservations are needed for any of Richard’s scheduled tours—just show up.
You can also hire Richard for private tours of the city or of Rosenborg Castle (1,000 kr/1.5 hours, June-Aug, mobile 91 61 95 02, www.copenhagenwalks.com, copenhagenwalks@yahoo.com).
Five local female guides work together, giving two-hour English-language city tours. Their walks mix the city’s highlights, back lanes, history, and contemporary social issues, and finish at Amalienborg Palace at noon for the changing of the guard (100 kr, daily mid-April-Sept at 10:00, departs from TI, just show up, pay direct, no minimum, tel. 20 92 23 87, www.redbadgeguides.dk, redbadgeguides@gmail.com). They also offer private guided tours upon request.
Christian Donatzky, a charming young Dane with a master’s degree in history, runs a walking tour on Saturday mornings. In April and May, the theme is “Reformed Copenhagen” (covering the period from 1400-1600); in June and July, “King’s Copenhagen” (1600-1800); and in August and September, “Hans Christian Andersen’s Copenhagen” (1800-present). Those with a serious interest in Danish history will find these tours time well spent (80 kr, Sat at 10:00, approximately 1.5 hours, small groups of 5-15 people, tours depart from statue of Bishop Absalon on Højbro Plads between the Strøget and Christiansborg Palace, English only, no reservations necessary—just show up, tel. 28 49 44 35, www.historytours.dk, info@historytours.dk).
For many, the best way to experience the city’s canals and harbor is by canal boat. Two companies offer essentially the same live, three-language, one-hour cruises. Both boats leave at least twice an hour from Nyhavn and Christiansborg Palace, cruise around the palace and Christianshavn area, and then proceed into the wide-open harbor. Best on a sunny day, it’s a relaxing way to see The Little Mermaid and munch on a lazy picnic during the slow-moving narration.
These inexpensive cruises cost about half the price of their rival, Canal Tours Copenhagen. Go with Netto; there’s no reason to pay nearly double (40 kr, mid-March-mid-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, runs later in summer, shorter hours in winter, sign at dock shows next departure, generally every 30 minutes, dress warmly—boats are open-top until Sept, tel. 32 54 41 02, www.havnerundfart.dk). Netto boats often make two stops where passengers can get off, then hop back on a later boat—at the bridge near The Little Mermaid, and at the Langebro bridge near Danhostel. Not every boat makes these stops; check the clock on the bridges for the next departure time.
Don’t confuse the cheaper Netto and pricier Canal Tours Copenhagen boats: At Nyhavn, the Netto dock is midway down the canal (on the city side), while the Canal Tours Copenhagen dock is at the head of the canal. Near Christiansborg Palace, the Netto boats leave from Holmen’s Bridge in front of the palace, while Canal Tours Copenhagen boats depart from Gammel Strand, 200 yards away. Boats leaving from Christiansborg are generally less crowded than those leaving from Nyhavn.
The author of such classic fairy tales as The Ugly Duckling was an ugly duckling himself—a misfit who blossomed. Hans Christian Andersen (called H. C., pronounced “hoe see” by the Danes) was born to a poor shoemaker in Odense. As a child he was gangly, high-strung, and effeminate. He avoided school because the kids laughed at him, so he spent his time in a fantasy world of books and plays. When his father died, the 11-year-old was on his own, forced into manual labor. He loved playing with a marionette theater that his father had made for him, sparking a lifelong love affair with the theater. In 1819, at the age of 14, he moved to Copenhagen to pursue an acting career and worked as a boy soprano for the Royal Theater. When his voice changed, the director encouraged him to return to school. He dutifully attended—a teenager among boys—and eventually went on to the university. As rejections piled up for his acting aspirations, Andersen began to shift his theatrical ambitions to playwriting.
After graduation, Andersen won a two-year scholarship to travel around Europe, the first of many trips he’d make and write about. His experiences abroad were highly formative, providing inspiration for many of his tales. Still in his 20s, he published an obviously autobiographical novel, The Improvisatore, about a poor young man who comes into his own while traveling in Italy. The novel launched his writing career, and soon he was hobnobbing with the international crowd—Charles Dickens, Victor Hugo, Franz Liszt, Richard Wagner, Henrik Ibsen, and Edvard Grieg.
Despite his many famous friends, Andersen remained a lonely soul who never married. He had very close male friendships and journaled about unrequited love affairs with several women, including the famous opera star of the day, Jenny Lind, the “Swedish Nightingale.” Without a family of his own, he became very close with the children of his friends—and, through his fairy tales, with a vast extended family of kids around the world.
Though he wrote novels, plays, and travel literature, it was his fairy tales, including The Ugly Duckling, The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Princess and the Pea, The Little Mermaid, The Snow Queen, and The Red Shoes, that made him famous in Denmark and abroad. They made him Denmark’s best-known author, the “Danish Charles Dickens.” Some stories are based on earlier folk tales, and others came straight from his inventive mind, all written in an informal, conversational style that was considered unusual and even surprising at the time.
Andersen’s compelling tales appeal to children and adults alike. They’re full of magic and touch on strong, universal emotions—the pain of being different, the joy of self-discovery, and the struggle to fit in. The ugly duckling, for example, is teased by his fellow ducks before he finally discovers his true identity as a beautiful swan. In The Emperor’s New Clothes, a boy is derided by everyone for speaking the simple, self-evident truth that the emperor is fooling himself. J. K. Rowling recently said, “The indelible characters he created are so deeply implanted in our subconscious that we sometimes forget that we were not born with the stories.” (For more on Andersen’s famous story The Little Mermaid—and what it might tell us about his life—see here.)
By the time of his death, the poor shoemaker’s son was wealthy, cultured, and had been knighted. His rise through traditional class barriers mirrors the social progress of the 19th century.
This more expensive option does the same cruise as Netto for 75 kr (daily March-late Oct 9:30-18:00, runs later in summer, shorter hours in winter, no tours Jan-Feb, boats are sometimes covered if it’s raining, tel. 32 96 30 00, www.stromma.dk).
In summer, Canal Tours Copenhagen also runs audioguided hop-on, hop-off “water bus” tours (95 kr/24 hours, daily late May-mid-Sept 9:30-19:00) and 1.5-hour evening jazz cruises.
Several buses with recorded narration circle the city for a basic 1.25- to 1.5-hour orientation, allowing you to get on and off as you like at the following stops: Tivoli Gardens, Gammel Strand near Christiansborg Palace, The Little Mermaid, Rosenborg Castle, Nyhavn sailors’ quarter, and more. Cruise passengers arriving at the Langelinie Pier can catch a hop-on, hop-off bus there; those arriving at other ports can take their cruise shuttle to The Little Mermaid, where you can pick up a hop-on, hop-off bus.
The same company runs City Sightseeing’s red buses and Open Top Tours’ green buses. Both offer a Mermaid route for 175 kr and Carlsberg Brewery and Christiania routes for 195 kr (tickets good for 24 hours, pay driver, 2/hour, May-mid-Sept daily 9:30-18:00, shorter hours off-season, buses depart near the TI at the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel and at many other stops throughout city, tel. 25 55 66 88, www.city-sightseeing.dk). Open Top Tours also offers a 225-kr ticket that includes all tour routes and a cruise on their hop-on, hop-off canal boat.
Another operation—called Red Blue Bus Tours—does a similar route but runs a little less frequently (every 45 minutes in summer, hourly in winter; 190 kr/1 day, 230 kr/2 days, www.sightseeing-cph.dk).
Mike Sommerville offers three-hour guided bike tours of the city. A Copenhagen native, Mike enjoys showing off his city to visitors, offering both historic background and contemporary cultural insights along the way (April-Sept daily at 10:00, second departure Wed and Sat at 14:00; 300 kr includes bike rental, price same with or without a bike, 50-kr discount with this book—maximum 2 discounts per book and must have book with you, cash only). All tours are in English and depart from his bike shop at Sankt Peders Straede 47, in the Latin Quarter. Mike also offers evening tours (19:00, 2.5 hours) and private tours; see the details at www.bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk.
This self-guided walk takes about two hours. It starts at Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) and heads along the pedestrian street, the Strøget, through the old city, onto “Castle Island” (home of Christiansborg Palace), along the harbor promenade, and through Nyhavn, the sailors’ quarter with the city’s iconic canalfront houses. The walk officially ends at Kongens Nytorv (“King’s New Square”), though you can continue another 10 minutes to Amalienborg Palace and then another 15 minutes beyond that to The Little Mermaid.
RådhuspladsenStart from Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square), the bustling heart of Copenhagen, dominated by the tower of the City Hall. Today this square always seems to be hosting some lively community event, but it was once Copenhagen’s fortified west end. For 700 years, Copenhagen was contained within its city walls. By the mid-1800s, 140,000 people were packed inside. The overcrowding led to hygiene problems. (A cholera outbreak killed 5,000.) It was clear: The walls needed to come down...and they did. Those formidable town walls survive today only in echoes—a circular series of roads and the remnants of moats, which are now people-friendly city lakes.
• Stand 50 yards in front of City Hall and turn clockwise for a...
Rådhuspladsen Spin-Tour: The City Hall, or Rådhus, is worth a visit. Old Hans Christian Andersen sits to the right of City Hall, almost begging to be in another photo (as he used to in real life). Climb onto his well-worn knee. (While up there, you might take off your shirt for a racy photo, as many Danes enjoy doing.)
He’s looking at 
Tivoli Gardens (across the street), which he loved and which inspired him when writing some of his stories. Tivoli Gardens was founded in 1843, when magazine publisher Georg Carstensen convinced the king to let him build a pleasure garden outside the walls of crowded Copenhagen. The king quickly agreed, knowing that happy people care less about fighting for democracy. Tivoli became Europe’s first great public amusement park. When the train lines came, the station was placed just beyond Tivoli.
The big, glassy building with the DI sign is filled with the offices of Danish Industry—a collection of Danish companies whose logos you can see in the windows (plus the Irma grocery store at street level).
The big, broad boulevard is Vesterbrogade (“Western Way”), which led to the western gate of the medieval city (behind you, where the pedestrian boulevard begins). Here, in the traffic hub of this huge city, you’ll notice...not many cars. Denmark’s 180 percent tax on car purchases makes the bus, Metro, or bike a sweeter option. In fact, the construction messing up this square is part of a huge expansion of the Metro system.
Down Vesterbrogade towers the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel (formerly the SAS building), Copenhagen’s only skyscraper. Locals say it seems so tall because the clouds hang so low. When it was built in 1960, Copenhageners took one look and decided—that’s enough of a skyline. Notice there are no other buildings taller than the five-story limit in the old center.
The golden 
weather girls (on the corner, high above Vesterbrogade) indicate the weather: on a bike (fair weather) or with an umbrella (foul). These two have been called the only women in Copenhagen you can trust, but for years they’ve been stuck in the almost-sunny mode...with the bike just peeking out. Notice that the red temperature dots max out at 28˚ Celsius (that’s 82˚ Fahrenheit...a good memory aid: transpose 28 to get 82).
To the right, just down the street, is the Tiger Store (a popular local “dollar store”...nearly everything is under 50 kr). The next street (once the local Fleet Street, with the big newspapers) still has the offices for Politiken (the leading Danish newspaper) and the best bookstore in town, Boghallen.
As you spin farther right, three fast-food joints stand at the entry to the Strøget (STROY-et), Copenhagen’s grand pedestrian boulevard—where we’re heading next. Just beyond that and the Art Deco-style Palace Hotel (with a tower to serve as a sister to the City Hall) is the Lur Blowers sculpture, which honors the earliest warrior Danes. The lur is a curvy, trombone-sounding horn that was used to call soldiers to battle or to accompany pagan religious processions. The earliest bronze lurs date as far back as 3,500 years ago. Later, the Vikings used a wood version of the lur. The ancient originals, which still play, are displayed in the National Museum.
• Now head down the pedestrian boulevard (pickpocket alert).
The StrøgetThe American trio of Burger King, 7-Eleven, and KFC marks the start of this otherwise charming pedestrian street. Finished in 1962, Copenhagen’s experimental, tremendously successful, and much-copied pedestrian shopping mall is a string of lively (and individually named) streets and lovely squares that bunny-hop through the old town from City Hall to the Nyhavn quarter, a 20-minute stroll away. Though the Strøget has become hamburgerized, historic bits and attractive pieces of old Copenhagen are just off this commercial can-can.
As you wander down this street, remember that the commercial focus of a historic street like the Strøget drives up the land value, which generally trashes the charm and tears down the old buildings. Look above the modern window displays and street-level advertising to discover bits of 19th-century character that still survive. This end of the Strøget is young and cheap, while the far end has the high-end designer shops. Along the way, wonderfully quiet and laid-back areas are just a block or two away on either side.
After one block (at Kattesundet), make a side-trip three blocks left into Copenhagen’s colorful university district. Formerly the old brothel neighborhood, later the heart of Copenhagen’s hippie community in the 1960s, today this “Latin Quarter” is SoHo chic. Enjoy the colorful string of artsy shops and cafés. Because the old town was densely populated and built of wood, very little survived its many fires. After half-timbered and thatched buildings kept burning down, the city finally mandated that new construction be made of stone. But because stone was so expensive, many people built half-timbered structures, then disguised their facades with stucco, which made them look like stone. Exposed half-timbered structures are seen in courtyards and from the back sides. At Sankt Peders Stræde, turn right and walk to the end of the street. Notice the old guild signs (a baker, a key maker, and so on) identifying the original businesses here.
Along the way, look for large mansions that once circled expansive courtyards. As the population grew, the city walls constricted Copenhagen’s physical size. The courtyards were gradually filled with higgledy-piggledy secondary buildings. Today throughout the old center, you can step off a busy pedestrian mall and back in time in these characteristic, half-timbered, time-warp courtyards. Replace the parked car with a tired horse and the bikes with a line of outhouses, and you’re in 19th-century Copenhagen. If you see an open courtyard door, you’re welcome to discreetly wander in and look around.
You’ll also pass funky shops and the big brick 
Sankt Peders Church—the old German merchant community’s church, which still holds services in German. Its fine 17th-century brick grave chapel (filling a ground-floor building out back due to the boggy nature of the soil) is filled with fancy German tombs (25 kr to enter).
• When Sankt Peders Stræde intersects with Nørregade, look right to find the big, Neoclassical...
Cathedral of Our Lady (Vor Frue Kirche)The obelisk-like Reformation Memorial across the street from the cathedral celebrates Denmark’s break from the Roman Catholic Church to become Lutheran in 1536. Walk around and study the reliefs of great Danish reformers protesting from their pulpits. The relief facing the church shows King Christian III presiding over the pivotal town council meeting when they decided to break away from Rome. As a young man, Prince Christian had traveled to Germany, where he was influenced by Martin Luther. He returned to take the Danish throne by force, despite Catholic opposition. Realizing the advantages of being the head of his own state church, Christian confiscated church property and established the state Lutheran Church. King Christian was crowned inside this cathedral. Because of the reforms of 1536, there’s no Mary in the Cathedral of Our Lady. The other reliefs show the popular religious uprising, with people taking control of the word of God by translating the Bible from Latin into their own language.
Like much of this part of town, the church burned down in the British bombardment of 1807 and was rebuilt in the Neoclassical style. The cathedral’s facade looks like a Greek temple. (Two blocks to the right, in the distance, notice more Neoclassicism—the law courts.) You can see why Golden Age Copenhagen (early 1800s) fancied itself a Nordic Athens. Old Testament figures (King David and Moses) flank the cathedral’s entryway. Above, John the Baptist stands where you’d expect to see Greek gods. He invites you in...into the New Testament.
The interior is a world of Neoclassical serenity (free, open daily 8:00-17:00). It feels like a pagan temple that now houses Christianity. The nave is lined by the 12 apostles, clad in classical robes—masterpieces by the great Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen. Each strikes a meditative pose, carrying his identifying symbol: Peter with keys, Andrew with the X-shaped cross of his execution, Matthew and John writing their books, and so on. They lead to a statue of the Risen Christ (see photo), standing where the statue of Zeus would have been: inside a temple-like niche, flanked by columns and topped with a pediment. Rather than wearing a royal robe, Jesus wears his burial shroud, opens his arms wide, and says, “Come to me.” (Mormons will recognize this statue—a replica stands in the visitors center at Salt Lake City’s Temple Square and is often reproduced in church publications.) The marvelous acoustics are demonstrated in free organ concerts Saturdays in July and August at noon. Notice how, in good Protestant style, only the front half of the pews are “reversible,” allowing the congregation to flip around and face the pulpit (in the middle of the church) to better hear the sermon.
• Head back outside. If you face the church’s facade and look to the left (across the square called Frue Plads), you’ll see...
Copenhagen UniversityNow home to 30,000 students, this university was founded by the king in the 15th century to stop the Danish brain drain to Paris. Today tuition is free (but room, board, and beer are not). Locals say it’s easy to get in, but given the wonderful student lifestyle, very hard to get out.
Step up the middle steps of the university’s big building; if the doors are open, enter a colorful lobby, starring Athena and Apollo. The frescoes celebrate high thinking, with themes such as the triumph of wisdom over barbarism. Notice how harmoniously the architecture, sculpture, and painting work together.
Outside, busts honor great minds from the faculty, including (at the end) Niels Bohr, a professor who won the 1922 Nobel Prize for theoretical physics. He evaded the clutches of the Nazi science labs by fleeing to America in 1943, where he helped develop the atomic bomb.
• Rejoin the Strøget (one block downhill from the Reformation Memorial to the black-and-gold fountain) at the twin squares called...
Gammeltorv and NytorvThis was the old town center. In Gammeltorv (“Old Square”), the Fountain of Charity (Caritas) is named for the figure of Charity on top. It has provided drinking water to locals since the early 1600s. Featuring a pregnant woman squirting water from her breasts next to a boy urinating, this was just too much for people of the Victorian Age. They corked both figures and raised the statue to what they hoped would be out of view. The exotic-looking kiosk was one of the city’s first community telephone centers from the days before phones were privately owned. Look at the reliefs ringing its top: an airplane with bird wings (c. 1900) and two women talking on a newfangled telephonic device. (It was thought business would popularize the telephone, but actually it was women.)
While Gammeltorv was a place of happiness and merriment, Nytorv (“New Square”) was a place of severity and judgment. Walk to the small raised area 20 yards in front of the old ancient-Greek-style former City Hall and courthouse. Do a 360. The square is Neoclassical (built mostly after the 1807 British bombardment). Read the old Danish on the City Hall facade: “With Law Shall Man Build the Land.” Look down at the pavement and read the plaque: “Here stood the town’s Kag (whipping post) until 1780.”
• Now walk down the next stretch of the Strøget—called Nygade—to reach...
AmagertorvThis is prime real estate for talented street entertainers. Walk to the stately brick Holy Ghost church (Helligåndskirken). The fine spire is typical of old Danish churches. Under the stepped gable was a medieval hospital run by monks (one of the oldest buildings in town, dating from the 12th century). Today the hospital is an antiques hall. In summer the pleasant courtyard is shared by a group of charities selling light bites and coffee.
Walk behind the church, down Valkendorfsgade—the street just before the church—and through a passage under the rust-colored building at #32 (if locked, loop back and go down Klosterstræde); here you’ll find the leafy and beer-stained 
Gråbrødretorv. Surrounded by fine old buildings, this “Grey Friars’ Square”—a monastic square until the Reformation made it a people’s square—is a popular place for an outdoor meal or drink in the summer. At the end of the square, the street called Niels Hemmingsens Gade returns (past the recommended Copenhagen Jazz House, a good place for live music nightly) to the Strøget.
Once back on busy Strøget, turn left and continue down Amagertorv, with its fine inlaid Italian granite stonework, to the next square with the “stork” fountain (actually three herons). The Victorian WCs here (free, steps down from fountain) are a delight.
This square, Amagertorv, is a highlight for shoppers, with the 
Royal Copenhagen store—stacked with three floors of porcelain—and Illums Bolighus—a fine place to ogle modern Danish design (see “Shopping in Copenhagen,” later). A block toward the canal—running parallel to the Strøget—starts Strædet, which is a “second Strøget” featuring cafés and antique shops.
North of Amagertorv, a broad pedestrian mall called Købmagergade leads past a fine modern bakery (Holm’s Bager) to Christian IV’s Round Tower and the Latin Quarter (university district). The recommended Café Norden overlooks the fountain—a good place for a meal or coffee with a view. The second floor offers the best vantage point.
• Looking downhill from the fountain, about halfway to an imposing palace in the distance, you’ll see a great man on a horse. Walk here to view this statue of Copenhagen’s founder, 
Bishop Absalon, shown in his Warrior Absalon get-up.
From the bishop, you’ll continue across a bridge toward the palace and the next statue—a king on a horse. As you cross the bridge, look right to see the City Hall tower, where this walk started. (A couple of the city’s competing sightseeing boat tours depart from near here.)
You’re stepping onto the island of Slotsholmen (or Castle Island), the easy-to-defend birthplace of Copenhagen in the 12th century. It’s dominated by the royal palace complex. Christiansborg Palace (with its “three crowns” spire)—the imposing former residence of kings—is now the Parliament building.
Ahead of you, the Neoclassical Lutheran church with the low dome is the 
Christiansborg Palace Chapel, site of 350 years of royal weddings and funerals (free, only open Sun 10:00-17:00).
Walk to the next green copper equestrian statue. 
Frederik VII was crowned in 1848, just months before Denmark got its constitution on June 5, 1849. (Constitution Day is celebrated with typical Danish understatement—stores are closed and workers get the day off.) Frederik, who then ruled as a constitutional monarch, stands in front of Christiansborg Palace, which Denmark’s royal family now shares with its people’s assembly (queen’s wing on right, Parliament on left). This palace, the seat of Danish government today, is considered the birthplace of Copenhagen. It stands upon the ruins of Absalon’s 12th-century castle (literally under your feet). The big stones between the statue and the street were put in for security after the 2011 terror attacks in Norway (in which 77 people were murdered, most of them teens and young adults). While Danes strive to keep government accessible, security measures like this are today’s reality.
This is Denmark’s power island, with the Parliament, Supreme Court, Ministry of Finance (to the left), and 
Børsen—the historic stock exchange (farther to the left, with the fanciful dragon-tail spire; not open to tourists). The eye-catching red-brick stock exchange was inspired by the Dutch Renaissance, like much of 17th-century Copenhagen. Built to promote the mercantile ambitions of Denmark in the 1600s, it was the “World Trade Center” of Scandinavia. The facade reads, “For the profitable use of buyer and seller.” The dragon-tail spire with three crowns represents the Danish aspiration to rule a united Scandinavia—or at least be its commercial capital.
Notice Copenhagen’s distinctive green copper spires all around you. Beyond the old stock exchange lies the island of Christianshavn, with its own distinct spire. It tops the Church of Our Savior and features an external spiral staircase winding to the top for an amazing view. While political power resided here on Slotsholmen, commercial power was in the merchant’s district, Christianshavn (neighborhood and church described later, under “Sights in Copenhagen”). The Børsen symbolically connected Christianshavn with the rest of the city, in an age when trade was a very big deal.
• Walk along the old stock exchange toward Christianshavn, but turn left at the crosswalk with the signal before you reach the end of the building. After crossing the street, go over the canal and turn right to walk along the harborfront promenade, enjoying views of Christianshavn across the water to your right.
Havnegade PromenadeThe Havnegade promenade to Nyhavn is a delightful people zone with trampolines, harborview benches (a good place to stop, look across the water, and ponder the trendy apartments and old-warehouses-turned-modern-office-blocks), and an ice-cream-licking ambience. Stroll several blocks from here toward the new 
Inderhavnsbroen sliding bridge for pedestrians and bikes. This “Kissing Bridge” (it’s called that because the two sliding, or retractable, sections “kiss” when they come together) is designed to link the town center with Christianshavn and to make the new Opera House (ahead on the right, across the water) more accessible to downtown. Walk until you hit the Nyhavn canal.
Across the way, at the end of Nyhavn canal, stands the glassy Royal Danish Theatre’s Playhouse. While this walk finishes on Kongens Nytorv, the square at the head of this canal, you could extend it by continuing north along the harbor from the playhouse.
• For now, turn left and walk to the center of the bridge over the canal for a...
View of NyhavnEstablished in the 1670s along with Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn (“New Harbor”) is a recently gentrified sailors’ quarter. (Hong Kong is the last of the nasty bars from the rough old days.) With its trendy cafés, jazz clubs, and tattoo shops (pop into Tattoo Ole at #17—fun photos, very traditional), Nyhavn is a wonderful place to hang out. The canal is filled with glamorous old sailboats of all sizes. Historic sloops are welcome to moor here in Copenhagen’s ever-changing boat museum. Hans Christian Andersen lived and wrote his first stories here (in the red double-gabled building at #20).
From the bridge, take a few steps left to the cheap beer kiosk (on Holbergsgade, open daily until late). At this mini-market, let friendly manager Nagib give you a little lesson in Danish beer, and then buy a bottle or can. Choose from Carlsberg (standard lager, 5 percent alcohol), Carlsberg Elephant (strong, 7.2 percent), Tuborg Grøn (standard lager, 4.6 percent), Tuborg Gold (stronger, 5.8 percent), and Tuborg Classic (dark beer, 4.6 percent). The cost? About 10-15 kr depending on the alcohol level. Take your beer out to the canal and feel like a local. A note about all the public beer-drinking here: There’s no more beer consumption here than in the US; it’s just out in public. Many young Danes can’t afford to drink in a bar, so they “picnic drink” their beers in squares and along canals, at a quarter of the price for a bottle.
If you crave ice cream instead, cross the bridge, where you’ll find a popular place with freshly made waffle cones facing the canal (Vaffelbageren).
Now wander the quay, enjoying the frat-party parade of tattoos (hotter weather reveals more tattoos). Celtic and Nordic mythological designs are in (as is bodybuilding, by the looks of things). The place thrives—with the cheap-beer drinkers dockside and the richer and older ones looking on from comfier cafés.
• Make your way to the head of the canal, where you’ll find a minuscule amber museum, above the House of Amber. Just beyond the head of Nyhavn canal sprawls the huge and stately King’s New Square. Check it out.
Kongens NytorvThe “King’s New Square” is home to the National Theater, French embassy, and venerable Hotel d’Angleterre, where VIPs and pop stars stay. In the mid-1600s the city expanded, pushing its wall farther east. The equestrian statue in the middle of the square celebrates Christian V, who made this square the city’s geographical and cultural center. In 1676, King Christian rode off to reconquer the southern tip of Sweden and reclaim Denmark’s dominance. He returned empty-handed and broke. Denmark became a second-rate power, but Copenhagen prospered. In the winter this square becomes a popular ice-skating rink.
Across the square on the left, small glass pyramids mark the Metro. The Metro that runs underground here features state-of-the-art technology (automated cars, no driver...sit in front to watch the tracks coming at you). As the cars come and go without drivers, compare this system to the public transit in your town.
Wander into 
Hviids Vinstue, the town’s oldest wine cellar (from 1723, just beyond the Metro station, at #19, under an Indian restaurant) to check out its characteristic interior and fascinating old Copenhagen photos. It’s a colorful spot for an open-face sandwich and a beer (three sandwiches and a beer for 70 kr at lunchtime). Their wintertime gløgg (hot spiced wine) is legendary. Across the street, towering above the Metro station, is Magasin du Nord, the grandest old department store in town.
• You’ve reached the end of this walk. But if you’d like to extend it by heading out to Amalienborg Palace and The Little Mermaid, retrace your steps to the far side of Nyhavn canal.
Stroll along the canal to the Royal Danish Theatre’s Playhouse and follow the harborfront promenade from there left through the big 
Kvæsthus construction project. The Kvæsthus project’s exhibition pavilion shows the vision for enhancing this waterfront area. You’ll then stroll a delightful promenade to the modern fountain of Amaliehaven Park, immediately across the harbor from Copenhagen’s slick Opera House. The Opera House is bigger than it looks—of its 14 floors, five are below sea level. Its striking design is controversial. Completed in 2005 by Henning Larsen, it was a $400 million gift to the nation from an oil-shipping magnate.
• A block inland (behind the fountain) is the orderly...
Amalienborg Palace and SquareQueen Margrethe II and her husband live in the mansion to your immediate left as you enter the square from the harborside. (If the flag’s flying, she’s home.) The mansion across the street (on the right as you enter) is where her son and heir to the throne, Crown Prince Frederik, lives with his wife, Australian businesswoman Mary Donaldson, and their four children. The royal guesthouse palace is on the far left. And the palace on the far right is the Amalienborg Museum, which offers an intimate look at royal living.
Though the guards change daily at noon, they do it with royal fanfare only when the queen is in residence. The royal guard often has a police escort when it marches through town on special occasions—leading locals to joke that theirs is “the only army in the world that needs police protection.”
The equestrian statue of Frederik V is a reminder that this square was the centerpiece of a planned town he envisioned in 1750. It was named for him—Frederikstaden. During the 18th century, Denmark’s population grew and the country thrived (as trade flourished and its neutrality kept it out of the costly wars impoverishing much of Europe). Frederikstaden, with its strong architectural harmony, was designed as a luxury neighborhood for the city’s business elite. Nobility and other big shots moved in, but the king came here only after his other palace burned down in a 1794 fire.
Just inland, the striking Frederikskirke—better known as the Marble Church—was designed to fit this ritzy new quarter. If it’s open, step inside to bask in its vast, serene, Pantheon-esque atmosphere (free, Mon-Thu 10:00-17:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-17:00).
• From the square, Amaliegade leads two blocks north to...
In this park, you’ll find some worthwhile sightseeing. The 1908 Gefion Fountain illustrates the myth of the goddess who was given one night to carve a hunk out of Sweden to make into Denmark’s main island, Sjælland (or “Zealand” in English), which you’re on. Gefion transformed her four sons into oxen to do the job, and the chunk she removed from Sweden is supposedly Vänern, Sweden’s largest lake. If you look at a map showing Sweden and Denmark, the island and the lake are, in fact, roughly the same shape. Next to the fountain is an Anglican church built of flint.
• Climb up the stairs by the fountain and continue along the top of the rampart about five minutes to reach the harborfront site of the overrated, overfondled, and overphotographed symbol of Copenhagen, Den Lille Havfrue, or...
“Far out in the ocean, where the water is as blue as a cornflower, as clear as crystal, and very, very deep...” there lived a young mermaid. So begins one of Hans Christian Andersen’s best-known stories. The plot line starts much like the Disney movie, but it’s spiced with poetic description and philosophical dialogue about the immortal soul.
The mermaid’s story goes like this: One day, a young mermaid spies a passing ship and falls in love with a handsome human prince. The ship is wrecked in a storm, and she saves the prince’s life. To be with the prince, the mermaid asks a sea witch to give her human legs. In exchange, she agrees to give up her voice and the chance of ever returning to the sea. And, the witch tells her, if the prince doesn’t marry her, she will immediately die heartbroken and without an immortal soul. The mermaid agrees, and her fish tail becomes a pair of beautiful but painful legs. She woos the prince—who loves her in return—but he eventually marries another. Heartbroken, the mermaid prepares to die. She’s given one last chance to save herself: She must kill the prince on his wedding night. She sneaks into the bedchamber with a knife...but can’t bear to kill the man she loves. The mermaid throws herself into the sea to die. Suddenly, she’s miraculously carried up by the mermaids of the air, who give her an immortal soul as a reward for her long-suffering love.
The tale of unrequited love mirrors Andersen’s own sad love life. He had two major crushes—one of them for the famous opera singer, Jenny Lind—but he was turned down both times, and he never married. He had plenty of interest in sex but likely died a virgin. He had close brotherly and motherly relations with women but stayed single, had time to travel and write, and maintained a child-like wonder about the world to his dying days.
The Little MermaidThe Little Mermaid statue was a gift to the city of Copenhagen in 1909 from brewing magnate Carl Jacobsen (whose art collection forms the basis of the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek). Inspired by a ballet performance of Andersen’s story, Jacobsen hired the young sculptor Edvard Eriksen to immortalize the mermaid as a statue. Eriksen used his wife Eline as the model. The statue sat unappreciated for 40 years until Danny Kaye sang “Wonderful Copenhagen” in the movie Hans Christian Andersen, and the tourist board decided to use the mermaid as a marketing symbol for the city. For the non-Disneyfied Little Mermaid story—and insights into Hans Christian Andersen—see the sidebar.
• This is the end of our extended wonderful, wonderful “Copenhagen City Walk.” From here you can get back downtown on foot, by taxi, on bus #1A from Store Kongensgade on the other side of Kastellet Park, or bus #26 from farther north, along Folke Bernadottes Allé.
Copenhagen’s great train station, the Hovedbanegården, is a fascinating mesh of Scandinavian culture and transportation efficiency. From the station, delightful sights fan out into the old city. The following attractions are listed roughly in order from the train station to Slotsholmen Island (except for the Museum of Copenhagen, which is several blocks from the station, in the opposite direction).
The world’s grand old amusement park—since 1843—is 20 acres, 110,000 lanterns, and countless ice cream cones of fun. You pay one admission price and find yourself lost in a Hans Christian Andersen wonderland of rides, restaurants, games, marching bands, roulette wheels, and funny mirrors. A roller coaster screams through the middle of a tranquil Asian food court, and the Small World-inspired Den Flyvende Kuffert ride floats through Hans Christian Andersen fairy tales. It’s a children’s fantasyland midday, but it becomes more adult-oriented later on. With or without kids, this place is a true magic kingdom. Tivoli doesn’t try to be Disney. It’s wonderfully and happily Danish. (Many locals appreciate the lovingly tended gardens.) I find it worth the admission just to see Danes—young and old—at play.
As you stroll the grounds, imagine the place in the mid-1800s, when it was new. Built on the site of the old town fortifications (today’s lake was part of the old moat), Tivoli was an attempt to introduce provincial Danes to the world (for example, with the Asian Pavilion) and to bring people of all classes together.
Cost: 99 kr, free for kids under 8. To go on rides, you must buy ride tickets (from booth or machine, 25 kr/ticket, color-coded rides cost 1, 2, or 3 tickets apiece); or you can buy a multi-ride pass for 199 kr. If you’ll be using at least eight tickets, buy the ride pass instead. To leave and come back later, you’ll have to buy a 25-kr re-entry ticket before you exit. Tel. 33 15 10 01, www.tivoli.dk.
Hours: Mid-April-late Sept daily 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat until 24:00. In winter, Tivoli opens daily 11:00-22:00 for a week in mid-Oct for Halloween, then again from mid-Nov to New Year’s Day for a Christmas market with gløgg (hot spiced wine) and ice-skating on Tivoli Lake. Dress warm for chilly evenings any time of year. There are lockers by each entrance.
Getting There: Tivoli is across Bernstoffsgade from the train station. If you’re catching an overnight train, this is the place to spend your last Copenhagen hours.
Entertainment at Tivoli: Upon arrival (through main entrance, on left in the service center), pick up a map and look for the events schedule. Take a moment to sit down and plan your entertainment for the evening. Events are generally spread between 15:00 and 23:00; the 19:30 concert in the concert hall can be as little as 50 kr or as much as 1,200 kr, depending on the performer (box office tel. 33 15 10 12). If the Tivoli Symphony is playing, it’s worth paying for. The ticket box office is outside, just to the left of the main entrance (daily 10:00-20:00; if you buy a concert ticket you get into Tivoli for free).
Free concerts, pantomime theater, ballet, acrobats, puppets, and other shows pop up all over the park, and a well-organized visitor can enjoy an exciting evening of entertainment without spending a single krone beyond the entry fee. Friday evenings feature a (usually free) rock or pop show at 22:00. People gather around the lake 45 minutes before closing time for the “Tivoli Illuminations.” Fireworks blast a few nights each summer. The park is particularly romantic at dusk, when the lights go on.
Eating at Tivoli: Inside the park, expect to pay amusement-park prices for amusement-park-quality food. Still, a meal here is part of the fun. Søcafeen serves only traditional open-face sandwiches in a fun beer garden with lakeside ambience. They allow picnics if you buy a drink (and will rent you plates and silverware for 10 kr/person). The pølse (sausage) stands are cheap, and a bagel sandwich place is in the amusements corner. Færgekroen offers a quiet, classy lakeside escape from the amusement-park intensity, with traditional dishes washed down by its own microbrew (200-300-kr hearty pub grub). They host live piano on Friday, as well as Saturday evenings from 20:00, often resulting in an impromptu sing-along with a bunch of very happy Danes. Wagamama, a modern pan-Asian slurpathon from the UK, serves healthy noodle dishes (at the far back side of the park, also possible to enter from outside, 100-175-kr meals). Nimb Terrasse offers a simple selection of seasonal meat and fish dishes in a garden setting (200-300-kr dishes). Café Georg, to the left of the concert hall, has tasty 85-kr sandwiches and a lake view (also 100-kr salads and omelets). The kid-pleasing Piratiriet lets you dine on a pirate ship (150-180-kr main dishes).
For something more upscale, consider the complex of Nimb restaurants, in the big Taj Mahal-like pavilion near the entrance facing the train station. For dinner, Nimb Bar ’n’ Grill is a definite splurge, with sophisticated 95-500-kr starters (such as veal tartare and caviar) and 220-600-kr meat dishes. Nimb Brasserie, sharing the same lobby, serves French classics (230-300-kr main dishes).
If it’s chilly, you’ll find plenty of Mamma Mokka coffee takeaway stands. If you get a drink “to go,” you’ll pay an extra 5-kr deposit for the cup, which you can recoup by returning it to a machine (marked on maps).
This city landmark, between the train station/Tivoli and the Strøget, is free and open to the public (including a public WC). You can wander throughout the building and into the peaceful garden out back. It also offers private tours and trips up its 345-foot-tall tower.
Cost and Hours: Free to enter building, Mon-Fri 8:30-16:00; you can usually slip in Sat 10:00-13:00 when weddings are going on, or join the Sat tour; closed Sun. Guided English-language tours—30 kr, 45 minutes, gets you into more private, official rooms; Mon-Fri at 13:00, Sat at 10:00. Tower by escort only—20 kr, 300 steps for the best aerial view of Copenhagen, Mon-Fri at 11:00 and 14:00, Sat at 12:00, closed Sun. Tel. 33 66 33 66.
Visiting City Hall: It’s draped, inside and out, in Danish symbolism. The city’s founder, Bishop Absalon, stands over the door. Absalon (c. 1128-1201)—bishop, soldier, and foreign-policy wonk—was King Valdemar I’s right-hand man. In Copenhagen, he drove out pirates and built a fort to guard the harbor, turning a miserable fishing village into a humming Baltic seaport. The polar bears climbing on the rooftop symbolize the giant Danish protectorate of Greenland. Six night watchmen flank the city’s gold-and-green seal under the Danish flag.
Step inside. The info desk (on the left as you enter) has racks of tourist information (city maps and other brochures). The building and its huge tower were inspired by the city hall in Siena, Italy (with the necessary bad-weather addition of a glass roof). Enormous functions fill this grand hall (the iron grate in the center of the floor is an elevator for bringing up 1,200 chairs), while the marble busts of four illustrious local boys—fairy-tale writer Hans Christian Andersen, sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, physicist Niels Bohr, and the building’s architect, Martin Nyrop—look on. Underneath the floor are national archives dating back to 1275, popular with Danes researching their family roots.
As you leave, pop into the amazing clock opposite the info desk. Jens Olsen’s World Clock, built in 1943-1955, was the mother of all astronomical clocks in precision and function. And it came with something new: tracking the exact time across the world’s time zones. One of its gears does a complete rotation only every 25,753 years.
Scandinavia’s top art gallery is an impressive example of what beer money can do. Brewer Carl Jacobsen (son of J. C. Jacobsen, who funded the Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle) was an avid collector and patron of the arts. (Carl also donated The Little Mermaid statue to the city.) His namesake museum has intoxicating artifacts from the ancient world, along with some fine art from our own times. The next time you sip a Carlsberg beer, drink a toast to Carl Jacobsen and his marvelous collection. Skål!
Cost and Hours: 75 kr, free on Sun; open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Mon; behind Tivoli at Dantes Plads 7, tel. 33 41 81 41, www.glyptoteket.com. It has a classy cafeteria under palms, as well as a rooftop terrace with snacks, drinks, and city views.
Visiting the Museum: Pick up a floor plan as you enter to help navigate the confusing layout. For a chronological swing, start with Egypt (mummy coffins and sarcophagi, a 5,000-year-old hippo statue), Greece (red-and-black painted vases, statues), the Etruscan world (Greek-looking vases), and Rome (grittily realistic statues and portrait busts).
The sober realism of 19th-century Danish Golden Age painting reflects the introspection of a once-powerful nation reduced to second-class status—and ultimately embracing what made it unique. The “French Wing” (just inside the front door) has Rodin statues. A heady, if small, exhibit of 19th-century French paintings (in a modern building within the back courtyard) shows how Realism morphed into Impressionism and Post-Impressionism, and includes a couple of canvases apiece by Géricault, Delacroix, Monet, Manet, Millet, Courbet, Degas, Pissarro, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso, Renoir, and Toulouse-Lautrec. Look for art by Gauguin—from before Tahiti (when he lived in Copenhagen with his Danish wife and their five children) and after Tahiti. There’s also a fine collection of modern (post-Thorvaldsen) Danish sculpture.
Linger with marble gods under the palm leaves and glass dome of the very soothing winter garden. Designers, figuring Danes would be more interested in a lush garden than in classical art, used this wonderful space as leafy bait to cleverly introduce locals to a few Greek and Roman statues. (It works for tourists, too.) One of the original Thinker sculptures by Rodin (wondering how to scale the Tivoli fence?) is in the museum’s backyard.
Focus on this museum’s excellent and curiously enjoyable Danish collection, which traces this civilization from its ancient beginnings. Its prehistoric collection is the best of its kind in Scandinavia. Exhibits are laid out chronologically and are eloquently described in English.
Cost and Hours: Free, Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon, mandatory lockers, enter at Ny Vestergade 10, tel. 33 13 44 11, www.natmus.dk. The café overlooking the entry hall serves coffee, pastries, and lunch (90-145 kr).
Visiting the Museum: Pick up the museum map as you enter, and head for the Danish history exhibit. It fills three floors, from the bottom up: prehistory, the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and modern times (1660-2000).
Danish Prehistory: Start before history did, in the Danish Prehistory exhibit (on the right side of the main entrance hall). Follow the room numbers in order, working counterclockwise around the courtyard and through the millennia.
In the Stone Age section, you’ll see primitive tools and still-clothed skeletons of Scandinavia’s reindeer hunters. The oak coffins were originally covered by burial mounds (called “barrows”). People put valuable items into the coffins with the dead, such as a folding chair (which, back then, was a real status symbol). In the farming section, ogle the ceremonial axes and amber necklaces.
The Bronze Age brought the sword (several are on display). The “Chariot of the Sun”—a small statue of a horse pulling the sun across the sky—likely had religious significance for early Scandinavians (whose descendants continue to celebrate the solstice with fervor). In the same room are those iconic horned helmets. Contrary to popular belief (and countless tourist shops), these helmets were not worn by the Vikings, but by their predecessors—for ceremonial purposes, centuries earlier. In the next room are huge cases filled with still-playable lur horns. Another room shows off a bitchin’ collection of well-translated rune stones proclaiming heroic deeds.
This leads to the Iron Age and an object that’s neither Iron nor Danish: the 2,000-year-old Gundestrup Cauldron of art-textbook fame. This 20-pound, soup-kitchen-size bowl made of silver was found in a Danish bog, but its symbolism suggests it was originally from either Thrace (in northeast Greece) or Celtic Ireland. On the sides, hunters slay bulls, and gods cavort with stags, horses, dogs, and dragons. It’s both mysterious and fascinating.
Prehistoric Danes were fascinated by bogs. To make iron, you need ore—and Denmark’s many bogs provided that critical material in abundance, leading people to believe that the gods dwelled there. These Danes appeased the gods by sacrificing valuable items (and even people) into bogs. Fortunately for modern archaeologists, bogs happen to be an ideal environment for preserving fragile objects. One bog alone—the Nydam bog—has yielded thousands of items, including three whole ships.
No longer bogged down in prehistory, the people of Scandinavia came into contact with Roman civilization. At about this time, the Viking culture rose; you’ll see the remains of an old warship. The Vikings, so feared in most of Europe, are still thought of fondly here in their homeland. You’ll notice the descriptions straining to defend them: Sure, they’d pillage, rape, and plunder. But they also founded thriving, wealthy, and cultured trade towns. Love the Vikings or hate them, it’s impossible to deny their massive reach—Norse Vikings even carved runes into the walls of the Hagia Sophia church (in today’s Istanbul).
Middle Ages and Renaissance: Next, go upstairs and follow signs to Room 101 to start this section. You’ll walk through the Middle Ages, where you’ll find lots of bits and pieces of old churches, such as golden altars and aquamaniles, pitchers used for ritual hand-washing. The Dagmar Cross is the prototype for a popular form of crucifix worn by many Danes (Room 102, small glass display case—with colorful enamel paintings). Another cross in this case (the Roskilde Cross, studded with gemstones) was found inside the wooden head of Christ displayed high on the opposite wall. There are also exhibits on tools and trade, weapons, drinking horns, and fine, wood-carved winged altarpieces. Carry on to find a fascinating room on the Norse settlers of Greenland, material on the Reformation, and an exhibit on everyday town life in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Modern Times: The next floor takes you through the last few centuries, with historic toys and a slice-of-Danish-life (1660-2000) gallery where you’ll see everything from rifles and old bras to early jukeboxes. You’ll learn that the Danish Golden Age (which dominates most art museums in Denmark) captured the everyday pastoral beauty of the countryside, celebrated Denmark’s smallness and peace-loving nature, and mixed in some Nordic mythology. With industrialization came the labor movement and trade unions. After delving into the World Wars, Baby Boomers, creation of the postwar welfare state, and the “Depressed Decade” of the 1980s (when Denmark suffered high unemployment), the collection is capped off by a stall that, until recently, was used for selling marijuana in the squatters’ community of Christiania.
The Rest of the Museum: If you’re eager for more, there’s plenty left to see. The National Museum also has exhibits on the history of this building (the Prince’s Palace), a large ethnology collection, antiquities, coins and medallions, temporary exhibits, and a good children’s museum. The floor plan will lead you to what you want to see.
The National Museum inherited an incredible Victorian apartment just around the corner. The wealthy Christensen family managed to keep its plush living quarters a 19th-century time capsule until the granddaughters passed away in 1963. Since then, it’s been part of the National Museum, with all but two of its rooms looking just as they did around 1890.
Cost and Hours: 50 kr, required one-hour tours leave from the National Museum reception desk (in Danish Sat-Sun at 11:00, 12:00, and 13:00 year-round; in English, June-Sept Sat only at 14:00).
This fine old house is filled with an entertaining and creative exhibit telling the story of Copenhagen. The ground floor covers the city’s origins, the upper floor is dedicated to the 19th century, and the top floor includes a fun year-by-year walk through Copenhagen’s 20th century, with lots of fun insights into contemporary culture.
Cost and Hours: 40 kr, daily 10:00-17:00, about 6 blocks past the train station at Vesterbrogade 59, tel. 33 21 07 72, www.copenhagen.dk.
This island, where Copenhagen began in the 12th century, is a short walk from the train station and Tivoli, just across the bridge from the National Museum. It’s dominated by Christiansborg Palace and several other royal and governmental buildings. Note that my “Copenhagen City Walk” (earlier) cuts right through Slotsholmen and covers other landmarks on the island.
A complex of government buildings stands on the ruins of Copenhagen’s original 12th-century fortress: the Parliament, Supreme Court, prime minister’s office, royal reception rooms, royal library, several museums, and royal stables. Although the current palace dates only from 1928 and the royal family moved out 200 years ago, this building—the sixth to stand here in 800 years—is rich with tradition.
Three palace sights (the reception rooms, old castle ruins, and stables) are open to the public, giving us commoners a glimpse of the royal life.
Cost and Hours: Reception rooms-80 kr, castle ruins-40 kr, stables-40 kr, combo-ticket for all three-110 kr. All three sights are open daily (except in Oct-April, when they’re closed on Mon) but have different hours: reception rooms 9:00-17:00 (may close at any time for royal events), ruins 10:00-17:00, stables and carriage museum 13:30-16:00 except July, when they’re open 10:00-17:00. Tel. 33 92 64 92, www.christiansborg.dk.
Visiting the Palace: From the equestrian statue in front, go through the wooden door; the entrance to the ruins is in the corridor on the right, and the door to the reception rooms is out in the next courtyard, also on the right.
Royal Reception Rooms: While these don’t rank among Europe’s best palace rooms, they’re worth a look. This is still the place where Queen Margrethe II impresses visiting dignitaries. The information-packed, hour-long English tours of the rooms are excellent (included in ticket, daily at 15:00). At other times, you’ll wander the rooms on your own in a one-way route, reading the sparse English descriptions. As you slip-slide on protect-the-floor slippers through 22 rooms, you’ll gain a good feel for Danish history, royalty, and politics. Here are a few highlights:
After the Queen’s Library you’ll soon enter the grand Great Hall, lined with boldly colorful (almost gaudy) tapestries. The palace highlight is this dazzling set of modern tapestries—Danish-designed but Gobelin-made in Paris. This gift, given to the queen on her 60th birthday in 2000, celebrates 1,000 years of Danish history, from the Viking age to our chaotic times...and into the future. Borrow the laminated descriptions for blow-by-blow explanations of the whole epic saga. The Velvet Room is where royals privately greet VIP guests before big functions.
In the corner room on the left, don’t miss the family portrait of King Christian IX, which illustrates why he’s called the “father-in-law of Europe”—his children eventually became, or married into, royalty in Denmark, Russia, Greece, Britain, France, Germany, and Norway.
In the Throne Room you’ll see the balcony where new monarchs are proclaimed (most recently in 1972). And at the end, in the Hall of Giants (where you take off your booties among heroic figures supporting the building), you’ll see a striking painting of Queen Margrethe II from 2010 on her 70th birthday. The three playful lions, made of Norwegian silver, once guarded the throne and symbolize absolute power—long gone since 1849, when Denmark embraced the notion of a constitutional monarch.
Castle Ruins: An exhibit in the scant remains of the first fortress built by Bishop Absalon, the 12th-century founder of Copenhagen, lies under the palace. A long passage connects to another set of ruins, from the 14th-century Copenhagen Castle. There’s precious little to see, but it is, um, old and well-described. A video covers more recent palace history.
Royal Stables and Carriages Museum: This facility is still home to the horses that pull the queen’s carriage on festive days, as well as a collection of historic carriages. While they’re down from 250 horses to about a dozen, the royal stables are part of a strong tradition and, as the little video shows, will live on.
This museum, which has some of the best swoon-worthy art you’ll see anywhere, tells the story and shows the monumental work of the great Danish Neoclassical sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (see sidebar). Considered Canova’s equal among Neoclassical sculptors, Thorvaldsen spent 40 years in Rome. He was lured home to Copenhagen with the promise to showcase his work in a fine museum, which opened in the revolutionary year of 1848 as Denmark’s first public art gallery. Of the 500 or so sculptures Thorvaldsen completed in his life—including 90 major statues—this museum has most of them, in one form or another (the plaster model used to make the original or a copy done in marble or bronze).
Cost and Hours: 40 kr, free on Wed, Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon, includes excellent English audioguide on request, located in Neoclassical building with colorful walls next to Christiansborg Palace, tel. 33 32 15 32, www.thorvaldsensmuseum.dk.
Bertel Thorvaldsen was born, raised, educated, and buried in Copenhagen, but his most productive years were spent in Rome. There he soaked up the prevailing style of the time: Neoclassical. He studied ancient Greek and Roman statues, copying their balance, grace, and impassive beauty. The simple-but-noble style suited the patriotism of the era, and Thorvaldsen got rich off it. Public squares throughout Europe are dotted with his works, celebrating local rulers, patriots, and historical figures looking like Greek heroes or Roman conquerors.
In 1819, at the height of his fame and power, Thorvaldsen returned to Copenhagen. He was asked to decorate the most important parts of the recently bombed, newly rebuilt Cathedral of Our Lady: the main altar and nave. His Risen Christ on the altar (along with the 12 apostles lining the nave) became his most famous and reproduced work—without even realizing it, most people imagine the caring features of Thorvaldsen’s Christ when picturing what Jesus looked like.
The prolific Thorvaldsen depicted a range of subjects. His grand statues of historical figures (Copernicus in Warsaw, Maximilian I in Munich) were intended for public squares. Portrait busts of his contemporaries were usually done in the style of Roman emperors. Thorvaldsen carved the Lion Monument, depicting a weeping lion, into a cliff in Luzern, Switzerland. He did religious statues, like the Risen Christ. Thorvaldsen’s most accessible works are from Greek mythology—The Three Graces, naked Jason with the Golden Fleece, or Ganymede crouching down to feed the eagle Jupiter.
Though many of his statues are of gleaming white marble, Thorvaldsen was not a chiseler of stone. Like Rodin and Canova, Thorvaldsen left the grunt work to others. He fashioned a life-sized model in plaster, which could then be reproduced in marble or bronze by his assistants. Multiple copies were often made, even in his lifetime.
Thorvaldsen epitomized the Neoclassical style. His statues assume perfectly balanced poses—maybe even a bit stiff, say critics. They don’t flail their arms dramatically or emote passionately. As you look into their faces, they seem lost in thought, as though contemplating deep spiritual truths.
In Copenhagen, catch Thorvaldsen’s Risen Christ at the Cathedral of Our Lady, his portrait bust at City Hall, and the full range of his long career at the Thorvaldsen’s Museum.
Visiting the Museum: The ground floor showcases his statues. After buying your ticket, go straight in and ask to borrow a free audioguide at the desk. This provides a wonderful statue-by-statue narration of the museum’s key works.
Just before the audioguide desk, turn left into the Great Hall, which was the original entryway of the museum. It’s filled with replicas of some of Thorvaldsen’s biggest and grandest statues—national heroes who still stand in the prominent squares of their major cities (Munich, Warsaw, the Vatican, and others). Two great equestrian statues stare each other down from across the hall; while they both take the classic, self-assured pose of looking one way while pointing another (think Babe Ruth calling his home run), one of them (Jozef Poniatowski) is modeled after the ancient Roman general Marcus Aurelius, while the other (Bavaria’s Maximilian I) wears modern garb.
Then take a spin through the smaller rooms that ring the central courtyard. Each of these is dominated by one big work—mostly classical subjects drawn from mythology. At the far end of the building stand the plaster models for the iconic Risen Christ and the 12 Apostles (the final marble versions stand in the Cathedral of Our Lady). Peek into the central courtyard to see the planter-box tomb of Thorvaldsen himself (who died in 1844). Continue into the next row of rooms: In the far corner room look for Thorvaldsen’s (very flattering) self-portrait, leaning buffly against a partially finished sculpture.
Downstairs you’ll find a collection of plaster casts (mostly ancient Roman statues that inspired Thorvaldsen) and a video about his career.
Upstairs, get into the mind of the artist by perusing his personal possessions and the private collection of paintings from which he drew inspiration.
Copenhagen’s “Black Diamond” (Den Sorte Diamant) library is a striking, supermodern building made of shiny black granite, leaning over the harbor at the edge of the palace complex. From the inviting lounge chairs, you can ponder this stretch of harborfront, which serves as a showcase for architects. Inside, wander through the old and new sections, catch the fine view from the “G” level, read a magazine, use the free computers (in the skyway lobby over the street nearest the harbor), and enjoy a classy—and pricey—lunch.
Cost and Hours: Free, special exhibits generally 30 kr; different parts of the library have varying hours but reading room generally open July-Aug Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-16:00, longer hours rest of the year, closed Sun year-round; tel. 33 47 47 47, www.kb.dk.
This museum, which opened in 2004 in a striking building by American architect Daniel Libeskind, offers a very small but well-exhibited display of 400 years of the life and impact of Jews in Denmark.
Cost and Hours: 50 kr; June-Aug Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00; Sept-May Tue-Fri 13:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00; closed Mon year-round; behind “Black Diamond” library at Proviantpassagen 6—enter from the courtyard behind the red-brick, ivy-covered building; tel. 33 11 22 18, www.jewmus.dk.
Visiting the Museum: Frankly, the architecture overshadows the humble exhibits. Libeskind—who created the equally conceptual Jewish Museum in Berlin, and whose design is the basis for the redevelopment of the World Trade Center site in New York City—has literally written Jewish culture into this building. The floor plan, a seemingly random squiggle, is actually in the shape of the Hebrew characters for Mitzvah, which loosely translated means “act of kindness.”
Be sure to watch the two introductory films about the Jews’ migration to Denmark, and about the architect Libeskind (12-minute loop total, English subtitles, plays continuously). As you tour the collection, the uneven floors and asymmetrical walls give you the feeling that what lies around the corner is completely unknown...much like the life and history of Danish Jews. Another interpretation might be that the uneven floors give you the sense of motion, like waves on the sea—a reminder that despite Nazi occupation in 1943, nearly 7,000 Danish Jews were ferried across the waves by fishermen to safety in neutral Sweden.
Built in 1642 by Christian IV, the tower connects a church, library, and observatory (the oldest functioning observatory in Europe) with a ramp that spirals up to a fine view of Copenhagen (though the view from atop Our Savior’s Church is far better).
Cost and Hours: 25 kr, nothing to see inside but the ramp and the view; tower—daily mid-May-mid-Sept 10:00-20:00, off-season until 18:00; observatory—summer Sun 13:00-16:00, mid-Oct-mid-March Tue-Wed 19:00-22:00; just off the Strøget on Købmagergade.
For more information on this palace and nearby attractions, including the famous Little Mermaid statue, see the end of my “Copenhagen City Walk.”
While Queen Margrethe II and her husband live quite privately in one of the four mansions that make up the palace complex, another mansion has been open to the public since 1994. It displays the private studies of four kings of the House of Glucksborg, who ruled from 1863-1972 (the immediate predecessors of today’s queen). Your visit is short—six or eight rooms on one floor—but it affords an intimate and unique peek into Denmark’s royal family. You’ll see the private study of each of the last four kings of Denmark. They feel particularly lived-in—with cluttered pipe collections and bookcases jammed with family pictures—because they were. It’s easy to imagine these blue-blooded folks just hanging out here, even today. The earliest study, Frederik VIII’s (c. 1869), feels much older and more “royal”—with Renaissance gilded walls, heavy drapes, and a polar bear rug. With a little luck, the upstairs gala hall will be open during your visit.
Cost and Hours: 70 kr (90 kr on Sat), 130-kr combo-ticket also includes Rosenborg Palace; May-Oct daily 10:00-16:00; Nov-April Tue-Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon; with your back to the harbor, the entrance is at the far end of the square on the right; tel. 33 15 32 86, www.dkks.dk.
This noontime event is boring in the summer, when the queen is not in residence—the guards just change places. (This goes on for quite a long time—no need to rush here at the stroke of noon, or to crowd in during the first few minutes; you’ll have plenty of good photo ops.) If the queen’s at home (indicated by a flag flying above her home), the changing of the guard is accompanied by a military band.
This museum, which tells the story of Denmark’s heroic Nazi-resistance struggle (1940-1945), is closed through 2018 for reconstruction.
This finely furnished Dutch Renaissance-style castle was built by King Christian IV in the early 1600s as a summer residence. Rosenborg was his favorite residence and where he chose to die. Open to the public since 1838, it houses the Danish crown jewels and 500 years of royal knickknacks. While the old palace interior is a bit dark and not as immediately impressive as many of Europe’s later Baroque masterpieces, it has a certain lived-in charm. It oozes the personality of the fascinating Christian IV and has one of the finest treasury collections in Europe.
Cost and Hours: 90 kr, 130-kr ticket also includes Amalienborg Museum; June-Aug daily 10:00-17:00; May and Sept-Oct daily 10:00-16:00; Nov-Dec Tue-Sun 11:00-14:00 (treasury until 16:00), closed Mon; Jan-April Tue-Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon; mandatory lockers take 20-kr coin, which will be returned; Metro or S-tog: Nørreport, then 5-minute walk on Østervoldgade and through park; tel. 33 15 32 86, www.dkks.dk.
Tours: Richard Karpen leads fascinating one-hour tours in princely garb (90 kr plus entry fee, mid-May-mid-Sept Mon and Thu at 12:00, meet outside castle ticket office). Or take the following self-guided tour that I’ve woven together from the highlights of Richard’s walk. You can also use your mobile device to take advantage of the palace’s free Wi-Fi signal, which is intended to let you follow the “Konge Connect” step-by-step tour through the palace highlights (with audio/video/text explanations for your smartphone or tablet—bring earphones; instructional brochure at the ticket desk).
Self-Guided Tour: Buy your ticket, then head back out and look for the castle sign. You’ll tour the ground floor room by room, then climb to the third floor for the big throne room. After a quick sweep of the middle floor, finish in the basement (enter from outside) for the jewels.
• Begin the tour on the palace’s ground floor (turn right as you enter), in the Winter Room.
Ground Floor: Here in the wood-paneled Winter Room, all eyes were on King Christian IV. Today, your eyes should be on him, too. Take a close look at his bust by the fireplace (if it’s not here, look for it out in the corridor by the ticket taker). Check this guy out—fashionable braid, hard drinker, hard lover, energetic statesman, and warrior king. Christian IV was dynamism in the flesh, wearing a toga: a true Renaissance guy. During his reign, Copenhagen doubled in size. You’re surrounded by Dutch paintings (the Dutch had a huge influence on 17th-century Denmark). Note the smaller statue of the 19-year-old king, showing him jousting jauntily on his coronation day. In another case, the golden astronomical clock—with musical works and moving figures—did everything you can imagine. Flanking the fireplace (opposite where you entered), beneath the windows, look for the panels in the tile floor that could be removed to let the music performed by the band in the basement waft in. (Who wants the actual musicians in the dining room?) The audio holes were also used to call servants.
King Christian IV (1577-1648) inherited Denmark at the peak of its power, lived his life with the exuberance of the age, and went to his grave with the country in decline. His legacy is obvious to every tourist—Rosenborg Castle, Frederiksborg Palace, the Round Tower, Christianshavn, and on and on. Look for his logo adorning many buildings: the letter “C” with a “4” inside it and a crown on top. Thanks to both his place in history and his passionate personality, Danes today regard Christian IV as one of their greatest monarchs.
During his 50-year reign, Christian IV reformed the government, rebuilt the army, established a trading post in India, and tried to expand Denmark’s territory. He took Kalmar from Sweden and captured strategic points in northern Germany. The king was a large man who also lived large. A skilled horseman and avid hunter, he could drink his companions under the table. He spoke several languages and gained a reputation as outgoing and humorous. His lavish banquets were legendary, and his romantic affairs were numerous.
But Christian’s appetite for war proved destructive. In 1626, Denmark again attacked northern Germany, but was beaten back. In late 1643, Sweden launched a sneak attack, and despite Christian’s personal bravery (he lost an eye), the war went badly. By the end of his life, Christian was tired and bitter, and Denmark was drained.
The heroics of Christian and his sailors live on in the Danish national anthem, “King Christian Stood by the Lofty Mast.”
The study (or “writing closet,” nearest where you entered) was small (and easy to heat). Kings did a lot of corresponding. We know a lot about Christian because 3,000 of his handwritten letters survive. The painting on the right wall shows Christian at age eight. Three years later, his father died, and little Christian technically ascended the throne, though Denmark was actually ruled by a regency until Christian was 19. A portrait of his mother hangs above the boy, and opposite is a portrait of Christian in his prime—having just conquered Sweden—standing alongside the incredible coronation crown you’ll see later.
Going back through the Winter Room, head for the door to Christian’s bedroom. Before entering, notice the little peephole in the door (used by the king to spy on those in this room—well-camouflaged by the painting, and more easily seen from the other side), and the big cabinet doors for Christian’s clothes and accessories, flanking the bedroom door (notice the hinges and keyholes). Heading into the bedroom, you’ll see paintings showing the king as an old man...and as a dead man. (Christian died in this room.) In the case are the clothes he wore at his finest hour. During a naval battle against Sweden (1644), Christian stood directing the action when an explosion ripped across the deck, sending him sprawling and riddling him with shrapnel. Unfazed, the 67-year-old monarch bounced right back up and kept going, inspiring his men to carry on the fight. Christian’s stubborn determination during this battle is commemorated in Denmark’s national anthem. Shrapnel put out Christian’s eye. No problem: The warrior king with a knack for heroic publicity stunts had the shrapnel bits removed from his eye and forehead and made into earrings as a gift for his mistress. The earrings hang in the case with his blood-stained clothes (easy to miss, right side). Christian lived to be 70 and fathered 25 children (with two wives and three mistresses). Before moving on, you can peek into Christian’s private bathroom—elegantly tiled with Delft porcelain.
Proceed into the Dark Room. Here you’ll see wax casts of royal figures. This was the way famous and important people were portrayed back then. The chair is a forerunner of the whoopee cushion. When you sat on it, metal cuffs pinned your arms down, allowing the prankster to pour water down the back of the chair (see hole)—making you “wet your pants.” When you stood up, the chair made embarrassing tooting sounds.
The Marble Room has a particularly impressive inlaid marble floor. Imagine the king meeting emissaries here in the center, with the emblems of Norway (right), Denmark (center), and Sweden (left) behind him.
The end room, called the King’s Chamber, was used by Christian’s first mistress. Notice the ceiling painting, with an orchestra looking down on you as they play.
The long stone passage leading to the staircase exhibits an intriguing painting (by the door to the King’s Chamber) showing the crowds at the coronation of Christian’s son, Frederik III. After Christian’s death, a weakened Denmark was invaded, occupied, and humiliated by Sweden (Treaty of Roskilde, 1658). Copenhagen alone held out through the long winter of 1658-1659 (the Siege of Copenhagen), and Sweden eventually had to withdraw from the country. During the siege, Frederik III distinguished himself with his bravery. He seized upon the resulting surge of popularity as his chance to be anointed an absolute, divinely ordained monarch (1660). This painting marks that event—study it closely for slice-of-life details. Next, near the ticket taker, a sprawling family tree makes it perfectly clear that Christian IV comes from good stock. Notice the tree is labeled in German—the second language of the realm.
• The queen had a hand-pulled elevator, but you’ll need to hike up two flights of stairs to the throne room.
Throne Room (Third Floor): The Long Hall—considered one of the best-preserved Baroque rooms in Europe—was great for banquets. The decor trumpets the accomplishments of Denmark’s great kings. The four corners of the ceiling feature the four continents known at the time. (America—at the far-right end of the hall as you enter—was still considered pretty untamed; notice the decapitated head with the arrow sticking out of it.) In the center, of course, is the proud seal of the Danish Royal Family. The tapestries, designed for this room, are from the late 1600s. Effective propaganda, they show the Danes defeating their Swedish rivals on land and at sea. The king’s throne—still more propaganda for two centuries of “absolute” monarchs—was made of “unicorn horn” (actually narwhal tusk from Greenland). Believed to bring protection from evil and poison, the horn was the most precious material in its day. The queen’s throne is of hammered silver. The 150-pound lions are 300 years old.
The small room to the left holds a delightful royal porcelain display with Chinese, French, German, and Danish examples of the “white gold.” For five centuries, Europeans couldn’t figure out how the Chinese made this stuff. The difficulty in just getting it back to Europe in one piece made it precious. The Danish pieces, called “Flora Danica” (on the left as you enter), are from a huge royal set showing off the herbs and vegetables of the realm.
• Heading back down, pause at the middle floor, which is worth a look.
Middle Floor: Circling counterclockwise, you’ll see more fine clocks, fancy furniture, and royal portraits. The queen enjoyed her royal lathe (with candleholders for lighting and pedals to spin it hidden away below; in the Christian VI Room). The small mirror room (up the stairs from the main hall) was where the king played Hugh Hefner—using mirrors on the floor to see what was under those hoop skirts. In hidden cupboards, he had a fold-out bed and a handy escape staircase.
• Back outside, turn right and find the stairs leading down to the...
Royal Danish Treasury (Castle Basement): The palace was a royal residence for a century and has been the royal vault right up until today. As you enter, first head to the right, into the wine cellar, with thousand-liter barrels and some fine treasury items. The first room has a vast army of tiny golden soldiers, and a wall lined with fancy rifles. Heading into the next room, you’ll see fine items of amber (petrified tree resin, 30-50 million years old) and ivory. Study the large box made of amber (in a freestanding case, just to the right as you enter)—the tiny figures show a healthy interest in sex.
Now head back past the ticket taker and into the main part of the treasury, where you can browse through exquisite royal knickknacks.
The diamond- and pearl-studded saddles were Christian IV’s—the first for his coronation, the second for his son’s wedding. When his kingdom was nearly bankrupt, Christian had these constructed lavishly—complete with solid-gold spurs—to impress visiting dignitaries and bolster Denmark’s credit rating.
The next case displays tankards. Danes were always big drinkers, and to drink in the top style, a king had narwhal steins (#4030). Note the fancy Greenland Inuit (Eskimo) on the lid (#4023). The case is filled with exquisitely carved ivory. On the other side of that case, what’s with the mooning snuffbox (#4063)? Also, check out the amorous whistle (#4064).
Drop by the case on the wall in the back-left of the room: The 17th century was the age of brooches. Many of these are made of freshwater pearls. Find the fancy combination toothpick and ear spoon (#4140). Look for #4146: A queen was caught having an affair after 22 years of royal marriage. Her king gave her a special present: a golden ring—showing the hand of his promiscuous queen shaking hands with a penis.
Step downstairs, away from all this silliness. Passing through the serious vault door, you come face-to-face with a big, jeweled sword. The tall, two-handed, 16th-century coronation sword was drawn by the new king, who cut crosses in the air in four directions, symbolically promising to defend the realm from all attacks. The cases surrounding the sword contain everyday items used by the king (all solid gold, of course). What looks like a trophy case of gold records is actually a collection of dinner plates with amber centers (#5032).
Go down the steps. In the center case is Christian IV’s coronation crown (from 1596, seven pounds of gold and precious stones, #5124), which some consider to be the finest Renaissance crown in Europe. Its six tallest gables radiate symbolism. Find the symbols of justice (sword and scales), fortitude (a woman on a lion with a sword), and charity (a nursing woman—meaning the king will love God and his people as a mother loves her child). The pelican, which according to medieval legend pecks its own flesh to feed its young, symbolizes God sacrificing his son, just as the king would make great sacrifices for his people. Climb the footstool to look inside—it’s as exquisite as the outside. The shields of various Danish provinces remind the king that he’s surrounded by his realms.
Circling the cases along the wall (right to left), notice the fine enameled lady’s goblet with traits of a good woman spelled out in Latin (#5128) and above that, an exquisite prayer book (with handwritten favorite prayers, #5134). In the fifth window, the big solid-gold baptismal basin (#5262) hangs above tiny oval silver boxes that contained the royal children’s umbilical cords (handy for protection later in life, #5272); two cases over are royal writing sets with wax, seals, pens, and ink (#5320).
Go down a few more steps into the lowest level of the treasury and last room. The two crowns in the center cases are more modern (from 1670), lighter, and more practical—just gold and diamonds without all the symbolism. The king’s crown is only four pounds, the queen’s a mere two.
The cases along the walls show off the crown jewels. These were made in 1840 of diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls from earlier royal jewelry. The saber (#5540) shows emblems of the realm’s 19 provinces. The sumptuous pendant features a 19-carat diamond cut (like its neighbors) in the 58-facet “brilliant” style for maximum reflection (far-left case, #5560). Imagine these on the dance floor. The painting shows the anointing of King Christian V at the Frederiksborg Castle Chapel in 1671. The crown jewels are still worn by the queen on special occasions several times a year.
Rosenborg Castle is surrounded by the royal pleasure gardens and, on sunny days, a minefield of sunbathing Danish beauties and picnickers. While “ethnic Danes” grab the shade, the rest of the Danes worship the sun. When the royal family is in residence, there’s a daily changing-of-the-guard mini-parade from the Royal Guard’s barracks adjoining Rosenborg Castle (at 11:30) to Amalienborg Palace (at 12:00). The Queen’s Rose Garden (across the moat from the palace) is a royal place for a picnic. The fine statue of Hans Christian Andersen in the park—erected while he was still alive (and approved by him)—is meant to symbolize how his stories had a message even for adults.
This museum fills a stately building with Danish and European paintings from the 14th century through today. It’s particularly worthwhile for the chance to be immersed in great art by the Danes, and to see its good collection of French Modernists, all well-described in English.
Cost and Hours: Permanent collection-free, special exhibits-110 kr, Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Wed until 20:00, closed Mon, Sølvgade 48, tel. 33 74 84 94, www.smk.dk.
Visiting the Museum: The ground floor holds special exhibits; the second floor has collections of Danish and Nordic artists from 1750 to 1900, and European art from 1300 to 1800; and the Danish and International Art after 1900 is spread between the second and third floors.
Head first to the Danish and Nordic artists section, and pick up the excellent floor plan that suggests a twisting route through the collection. Take the time to read the descriptions in each room, which put the paintings into historical context. In addition to Romantic works by well-known, non-Danish artists (such as the Norwegian J. C. Dahl and the German Caspar David Friedrich), this is a chance to learn about some very talented Danish painters not well known outside their native land. Make a point to meet the “Skagen Painters,” including Anna Ancher, Michael Ancher, Peder Severin Krøyer, and others (find them in the section called “The Modern Breakthrough I-II”). This group, with echoes of the French Impressionists, gathered in the fishing village of Skagen on the northern tip of Denmark, surrounded by the sea and strong light, and painted heroic folk-fishermen themes in the late 1800s. Also worth seeking out are the canvases of Laurits Andersen Ring, who portrayed traditional peasant scenes with modern style; and Jens Ferdinand Willumsen, who pioneered “Vitalism” (celebrating man in nature). Other exhibits are cleverly organized by theme, such as gender or the body.
In the 20th-century section, the collection of early French Modernism is particularly impressive (with works by Matisse, Picasso, Braque, and more). This is complemented with works by Danish artists, who, inspired by the French avant-garde, introduced new, radical forms and colors to Scandinavian art.
Across the harbor from the old town, Christianshavn—the former merchant’s district—is one of the most delightful neighborhoods in town to explore. It offers pleasant canalside walks and trendy restaurants, along with two things to see: Our Savior’s Church (with its fanciful tower) and Christiania, a colorful alternative-living community. Before visiting, make sure to read the background on Christianshavn, which helps explain what you’ll see (see sidebar).
Your first look at the island will likely be its main square. Christianshavns Torv has a Metro stop, an early Copenhagen phone kiosk (from 1896), a fine bakery across the street (Lagkagehuset), and three statues celebrating Greenland. A Danish protectorate since 1721, Greenland, with 56,000 people, is represented by two members in the Danish Parliament. The square has long been a hangout for Greenlanders, who appreciate the cheap beer and long hours of the big supermarket fronting the square.
Following a recent restoration, the church gleams inside and out. Its bright Baroque interior (1696) is shaped like a giant cube. The magnificent pipe organ is supported by elephants (a royal symbol of the prestigious Order of the Elephant). Looking up to the ceiling, notice elephants also sculpted into the stucco of the dome, and a little one hanging from the main chandelier. Best of all, you can climb the unique spiral spire (with an outdoor staircase winding up to its top—398 stairs in all) for great views of the city and of the Christiania commune below.
Cost and Hours: Church interior—free, open daily 11:00-15:30 but may close for special services; church tower—40 kr; July-mid-Sept Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:30-19:00; April-June and mid-Sept-Nov daily until 16:00; closed Dec-March and in bad weather; bus #2A, #19, or Metro: Christianshavn, Sankt Annægade 29, tel. 41 66 63 57, www.vorfrelserskirke.dk.
Spin-Tour from the Top of Our Savior’s Church: Climb up until you run out of stairs. As you wind back down, look for these landmarks:
The modern windmills are a reminder that Denmark generates 20 percent of its power from wind. Below the windmills is a great aerial view of the Christiania commune. Beyond the windmills, across Øresund (the strait that separates Denmark and Sweden), stands a shuttered Swedish nuclear power plant. The lone skyscraper in the distance—the first and tallest skyscraper in Scandinavia—is in Malmö, Sweden. The Øresund Bridge made Malmö an easy 35-minute bus or train ride from Copenhagen (it’s become a bedroom community, with much cheaper apartments making the commute worthwhile).
Farther to the right, the big red-roof zone is Amager Island. Five hundred years as the city’s dumping grounds earned Amager the nickname “Crap Island.” Circling on, you come to the towering Radisson Blu Royal Hotel. The area beyond it is slated to become a forest of skyscrapers—the center of Europe’s biomedical industry.
Downtown Copenhagen is decorated with several striking towers and spires. The tower capped by the golden ball is a ride in Tivoli Gardens. Next is City Hall’s pointy brick tower. The biggest building, with the three-crown tower, is Christiansborg Palace. The Børsen (old stock exchange) is just beyond, with its unique dragon-tail tower. Behind that is Nyhavn. Just across from that and the Royal Danish Theatre’s Playhouse is the dramatic Opera House (with the flat roof and big, grassy front yard).
In 1971, the original 700 Christianians established squatters’ rights in an abandoned military barracks just a 10-minute walk from the Danish Parliament building. Two generations later, this “free city” still stands—an ultra-human mishmash of idealists, hippies, potheads, non-materialists, and happy children (600 adults, 200 kids, 200 cats, 200 dogs, 2 parrots, and 17 horses). There are even a handful of Willie Nelson-type seniors among the 180 remaining here from the original takeover. And an amazing thing has happened: The place has become the second-most-visited sight among tourists in Copenhagen, behind Tivoli Gardens. Move over, Little Mermaid.
“Pusher Street” (named for the sale of soft drugs here) is Christiania’s main drag. Get beyond this touristy side of Christiania, and you’ll find a fascinating, ramshackle world of moats and earthen ramparts, alternative housing, cozy tea houses, carpenter shops, hippie villas, children’s playgrounds, peaceful lanes, and people who believe that “to be normal is to be in a straitjacket.” A local slogan claims, “Kun døde fisk flyder med strømmen” (“Only dead fish swim with the current”).
Hours and Tours: Christiania is open all the time but quiet (and some restaurants closed) on Mondays, which is its rest day (though “resting” from what, I’m not sure). Guided tours leave from the main entrance at 15:00 (just show up, 40 kr, 1.5 hours, daily late June-Aug, only Sat-Sun rest of year, in English and Danish, info tel. 32 95 65 07, www.rundvisergruppen.dk). You’re welcome to snap photos, except on Pusher Street (but ask residents before you photograph them).
The Community: Christiania is broken into 14 administrative neighborhoods on a former military base. Most of the land, once owned by Denmark’s Ministry of Defense, has been purchased by the Christiania community; the rest of it is leased from the state (see the sidebar for details). Locals build their homes but don’t own them—individuals can’t buy or sell property. When someone moves out, the community decides who will be invited in to replace that person. A third of the adult population works on the outside, a third works on the inside, and a third doesn’t work much at all.
There are nine rules: no cars, no hard drugs, no guns, no explosives, and so on. The Christiania flag is red and yellow because when the original hippies took over, they found a lot of red and yellow paint onsite. The three yellow dots in the flag are from the three “i”s in Christiania (or, some claim, the “o”s in “Love, Love, Love”).
The community pays the city about $1 million a year for utilities and has about $1 million a year more to run its local affairs. A few “luxury hippies” have oil heat, but most use wood or gas. The ground here was poisoned by its days as a military base, so nothing is grown in Christiania. There’s little industry within the commune (Christiania Cykler, which builds fine bikes, is an exception—www.pedersen-bike.dk). A phone chain provides a system of communal security (they have had bad experiences calling the police). Each September 26, the day the first squatters took over the barracks in 1971, Christiania has a big birthday bash.
Tourists are entirely welcome here, because they’ve become a major part of the economy. Visitors react in very different ways to the place. Some see dogs, dirt, and dazed people. Others see a haven of peace, freedom, and no taboos. Locals will remind judgmental Americans (whose country incarcerates more than a quarter of the world’s prison inmates) that a society must make the choice: Allow for alternative lifestyles...or build more prisons.
Visiting Christiania: The main entrance is down Prinsessegade, behind the Our Savior’s Church spiral tower. Passing under the gate, take Pusher Street directly into the community. The first square—a kind of market square (souvenirs and marijuana-related stuff)—is named Carl Madsens Plads, honoring the lawyer who took the squatters’ case to the Danish supreme court in 1976 and won. Beyond that is Nemoland (a food circus, on the right). A huge warehouse called the Green Hall (Den Gronne Hal) is a recycling center and hardware store (where people get most of their building materials) that does double duty at night as a concert hall and as a place where children work on crafts. If you go up the stairs between Nemoland and the Green Hall, you’ll climb up to the ramparts that overlook the canal. As you wander, be careful to distinguish between real Christianians and Christiania’s motley guests—drunks (mostly from other countries) who hang out here in the summer for the freedom. Part of the original charter guaranteed that the community would stay open to the public.
Ever since several hundred squatters took over an unused military camp in 1971, Christiania has been a political hot potato. No one in the Danish establishment wanted it. And no one had the nerve to mash it.
Part of Christiania’s history has been ongoing government attempts to shut the place down. At first, city officials looked the other way because back then, no one cared about the land. But skyrocketing Christianshavn land values brought pressure to open Christiania to market forces. By the 1980s, the neighborhood had become gentrified, and both the city and developers were eyeing the land Christiania’s hippies were squatting on. And when Denmark’s conservative government took over in 2001, they vowed to “normalize” Christiania (with pressure from the US), with police regularly conducting raids on pot sellers.
Things were looking grim for the Christianians until 2012, when the Danish government offered to sell most of the land to the residents at below the market rate, and offered guaranteed loans. In exchange, the Christianians had to promise to upgrade and maintain water, sewage, and electrical services, and preserve rights of way and “rural” areas. Accepting the offer, Christianians formed a foundation—Freetown Christiania—to purchase and control the property. The parts of Christiania that were not sold are leased to the residents and are still owned by the state.
For many Christianians, it’s an ironic, capitalistic twist that they now own property, albeit collectively. They even sell symbolic Christiania “shares” to help pay for the land. And, every adult over age 18 now owes a monthly rent that goes toward paying off the loans and to support services. But on the flip side, this is the greatest degree of security Christiania has ever experienced in its four-plus decades of existence. Even so, mistrust of the establishment is by no means dead, and there are still those who wonder what the government might be up to next.
On the left beyond the Green Hall, a lane leads to the Månefiskeren café, and beyond that, to the Morgenstedet vegetarian restaurant (the best place for a simple, friendly meal; see “Eating in Christiania,” later). Beyond these recommended restaurants, you’ll find yourself lost in the totally untouristy, truly local residential parts of Christiania, where kids play in the street and the old folks sit out on the front stoop—just like any other neighborhood. Just as St. Mark’s Square isn’t the “real Venice,” the hippie-druggie scene on Pusher Street isn’t the “real Christiania”—you can’t say you’ve experienced Christiania until you’ve strolled these back streets.
A walk or bike ride through Christiania is a great way to see how this community lives. When you leave, look up—the sign above the gate says, “You are entering the EU.”
Smoking Marijuana: Pusher Street was once lined with stalls selling marijuana, joints, and hash. Residents intentionally destroyed the stalls in 2004 to reduce the risk of Christiania being disbanded by the government. (One stall was spared and is on display at the National Museum.) Walking along Pusher Street today, you may witness policemen or deals being made—but never at the same time. You may also notice wafts of marijuana smoke and whispered offers of “hash” during your visit. And, in fact, on my last visit there was a small stretch of Pusher Street dubbed the “Green Light District” where pot was being openly sold (signs acknowledged that this activity was still illegal, and announced three rules here: 1. Have fun; 2. No photos; and 3. No running—“because it makes people nervous”). However, purchasing and smoking may buy you more time in Denmark than you’d planned—possession of marijuana is illegal.
About hard drugs: For the first few years, junkies were tolerated. But that led to violence and polluted the mellow ambience residents envisioned. In 1979, the junkies were expelled—an epic confrontation in the community’s folk history now—and since then the symbol of a fist breaking a syringe is as prevalent as the leafy marijuana icon. Hard drugs are emphatically forbidden in Christiania.
Eating in Christiania: The people of Christiania appreciate good food and count on tourism as a big part of their economy. Consequently, there are plenty of decent eateries. Most of the restaurants are closed on Monday (the community’s weekly holiday). Pusher Street has a few grungy but tasty falafel stands, as well as a popular burger bar. Nemoland is the hangout zone—a fun collection of stands peddling Thai food, burgers, shawarma, and other fast hippie food with great, tented outdoor seating (30-110-kr meals). Its stay-a-while atmosphere comes with backgammon, foosball, bakery goods, and fine views from the ramparts. Månefiskeren (“Moonfisher Bar”) looks like a modern-day Brueghel painting, with billiards, chess, snacks, and drinks (Tue-Sun 10:00-23:00, closed Mon). Morgenstedet (“Morning Place”) is a good, cheap vegetarian café with a mellow, woody interior and a rustic patio outside (50-100-kr meals, Tue-Sun 12:00-21:00, closed Mon, left after Pusher Street). Spiseloppen is the classy, good-enough-for-Republicans restaurant in the community (closed Mon). While there are lots of public concerts at the open-air Nemoland stage, for a music club experience, consider Musik Loppen (which has live music almost nightly, under the Spiseloppen restaurant).
Swimming in the middle of a large city is unthinkable in most of the world, yet the enterprising Danes have made it happen. On a warm summer day there’s no better way to see Copenhageners at play than to visit the Harbor Baths, a former-industrial-area-turned-bathing-complex located at Islands Brygge, across the Inner Harbor from the main train station and Kødbyen (the Meatpacking District).
Cost and Hours: Free, open long hours June-Aug, tel. 30 89 04 69, http://kulturogfritid.kk.dk/havnebadet-islands-brygge.
Getting There: From Kødbyen, head east on Dybbølsbro, across the train tracks to the Fisketorvet Mall. Passing through the mall you’ll come to Bryggebroen—a pedestrian/cyclists’ bridge that spans the Inner Harbor. After crossing the bridge, follow the waterside promenade north to the baths. From the main train station, head east over Langebro bridge, then head south—you can’t miss the baths. From Christianshavn, follow the ramparts west to where they meet the Inner Harbor. Pass under Langebro bridge, and you’ll see the baths.
Visiting the Baths: Designed in 2003, the baths were an early project by Danish “starchitect” Bjarke Ingels, who now has buildings around the world featuring his unique signature. (One of his recent efforts is an artificial ski slope located near the airport and built around an incinerator smokestack; visit www.big.dk to see samples of his work.)
The Harbor Baths consist of a large barge moored to the shore, with five swimming pools (two suitable for kids) and a prow-shaped diving platform offering three- and five-meter leaps into the refreshing water. How refreshing? This is not Hawaii: Water temperatures peak at 65 degrees in August, which should be no problem for those with Viking blood. Though located in a former industrial area, the water has been cleaned up, and the quality is as good as what you’ll find at the pristine beaches around Copenhagen. Plus, water quality is constantly monitored, and on the rare occasions it dips below acceptable levels, the baths are closed.
The shore is one big cobbled promenade backed by a grassy area that’s great for sunbathing, barbecues, and people-watching. The area hums with life in summer, and even in the winter it’s open to hardy members of a local polar bear club. Plans are under way for a sauna and thermal pools to encourage more off-season use.
Denmark’s beloved source of legal intoxicants is Carlsberg. About 1.5 miles west of Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square), Carlsberg welcomes you to its visitors center for a self-guided tour and a couple of beers.
Cost and Hours: 80 kr, daily 10:00-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing; catch the local train to Enghave, or bus #18, #26, or #6A; enter at Gamle Carlsbergvej 11 around corner from brewery entrance, tel. 33 27 12 82, www.visitcarlsberg.dk.
Nearby: The manicured gardens of the sprawling Frederiksberg Park (Frederiksberg Have) and adjacent Southern Field (Søndermarken) make a lovely setting for a picnic.
This park, located north of Copenhagen in the suburb of Lyngby, is part of the National Museum. It’s filled with traditional Danish architecture and folk culture, farm animals, and gardens. Bring a picnic or dine at the on-site restaurant.
Cost and Hours: Free; May-mid-Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00, July-mid-Aug until 17:00, closed Mon and off-season; S-tog: Sorgenfri and 10-minute walk to Kongevejen 100 in Lyngby; tel. 41 20 64 55, http://natmus.dk.
Danes gather at Copenhagen’s other great amusement park, Bakken, situated in the Dyrehaven forest about a 10-minute drive north of the city.
Cost and Hours: Free entry, 250 kr for all-ride pass; late June-mid-Aug daily 12:00-24:00, shorter hours April-late June and mid-Aug-mid-Sept, closed mid-Sept-March; S-tog: Klampenborg, then walk 10 minutes through the woods; tel. 39 63 73 00, www.bakken.dk.
If you don’t have time to get to the idyllic island of Ærø, consider the eight-mile trip south of Copenhagen to the fishing village of Dragør, near the airport (bus #350S from Nørreport). For information, see www.visit-dragoer.dk.
Shops are generally open Monday through Friday from 10:00 to 19:00 and Saturday from 9:00 to 16:00 (closed Sun). While big department stores dominate the scene, many locals favor the characteristic, small artisan shops and boutiques.
Uniquely Danish souvenirs to look for include intricate paper cuttings with idyllic motifs of swans, flowers, or Christmas themes; mobiles with everything from bicycles to Viking ships (look for the quality Flensted brand); and the colorful artwork of Danish artist Bo Bendixen (posters, postcards, T-shirts, and more). Jewelry lovers look for amber, known as the “gold of the North.” Globs of this petrified sap wash up on the shores of all the Baltic countries.
If you buy anything substantial (minimum 300 kr, about $50) from a shop displaying the Danish Tax-Free Shopping emblem, you can get a refund of the Value-Added Tax, roughly 20 to 25 percent of the purchase price (VAT is “MOMS” in Danish). If you have your purchase mailed, the tax can be deducted from your bill.
Consider the following stores, markets, and neighborhoods:
For a street’s worth of shops selling “Scantiques,” wander down Ravnsborggade from Nørrebrogade.
Copenhagen’s colorful flea markets are small but feisty and surprisingly cheap (May-Nov Sat 8:00-14:00 at Israels Plads; May-Sept Fri and Sat 8:00-17:00 along Gammel Strand and on Kongens Nytorv). For other street markets, ask at the TI.
The city’s top department stores (Illum at Østergade 52, and Magasin du Nord at Kongens Nytorv 13) offer a good, if expensive, look at today’s Denmark. Both are on the Strøget and have fine cafeterias on their top floors. The department stores and the Politiken Bookstore on Rådhuspladsen have a good selection of maps and English travel guides.
The section of the Strøget called Amagertorv is a highlight for shoppers. The Royal Copenhagen store here sells porcelain on three floors (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-17:00). The first floor up features figurines and collectibles. The second floor has a second-quality department for discounts, proving that “even the best painter can miss a stroke.” Next door, Illums Bolighus shows off three floors of modern Danish design (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00).
House of Amber, which has a shop and a tiny two-room museum with about 50 examples of prehistoric insects trapped in the amber (remember Jurassic Park?) under magnifying glasses. You’ll also see remarkable items made of amber, from necklaces and chests to Viking ships and chess sets (25 kr, daily May-Aug 10:00-19:00, Sept-April 10:00-18:00, at the top of Nyhavn at Kongens Nytorv 2). If you’re visiting Rosenborg Castle, you’ll see the ultimate examples of amber craftsmanship in its treasury.
For the latest event and live music listings, check at the TI and pick up The Copenhagen Post (comes out weekly, free at TI and some hotels, also sold at newsstands, www.cphpost.dk).
Nightlife Neighborhoods: The Meatpacking District, which I’ve listed for its restaurants, is also one of the city’s most up-and-coming destinations for bars and nightlife. On warm evenings, Nyhavn canal becomes a virtual nightclub, with packs of young people hanging out along the water, sipping beers. Christiania always seems to have something musical going on after dark. Tivoli has evening entertainment daily from mid-April through late September.
Music Venues: Copenhagen Jazz House is a good bet for live jazz (two stages, 50-300 kr cover, closed Mon, Niels Hemmingsensgade 10, tel. 33 15 26 00, check website for schedule, www.jazzhouse.dk). For blues, try the Mojo Blues Bar (70 kr Fri-Sat, otherwise no cover, nightly 20:00-late, music starts at 21:30, Løngangsstræde 21c, tel. 33 11 64 53, schedule in Danish on website, www.mojo.dk).
Jazz Cruises: Canal Tours Copenhagen offers 1.5-hour jazz cruises along the canals of Copenhagen. You can bring a picnic dinner and drinks on board and enjoy a lively night on the water surrounded by Danes (150 kr, mid-May-Aug Thu and Sun at 19:00, Sept-Dec and April-mid-May only Sun at 15:00, no tours Jan-March, departs from Canal Tours Copenhagen dock at Nyhavn, tel. 32 96 30 00). Call to reserve on July and August evenings; otherwise try arriving 20 to 30 minutes in advance.
I’ve listed a few big business-class hotels, the best budget hotels in the center, cheap rooms in private homes in great neighborhoods an easy bus ride from the station, and a few backpacker dorm options.
Big Copenhagen hotels have an exasperating pricing policy. Their high rack rates are actually charged only about 20 or 30 days a year (unless you book in advance and don’t know better). As hotels are swamped at certain times, they like to keep their gouging options open. Therefore, you’ll need to check their website for deals or be bold enough to simply show up and use the TI’s booking service to find yourself a room on their push list (ask at their desk, 100-kr fee). The TI swears that, except for maybe 10 days a year, you can land yourself a deeply discounted room in a three- or four-star business-class hotel in the center. That means a 1,400-kr double with American-style comfort for about 900 kr, including a big buffet breakfast.
Prices include breakfast unless noted otherwise. All of these hotels are big and modern, with elevators and non-smoking rooms, and all accept credit cards. Beware: Many hotels have rip-off phone rates even for local calls.
$$$ Ibsens Hotel is a stylish 118-room hotel in a charming neighborhood away from the main train station commotion and a short walk from the old center (on average Sb-1,145-1,245 kr, Db-1,145-1,445 kr, very slushy rates flex with demand—ask about discounts when booking or check website; higher prices are for larger rooms, third bed-400 kr, great bikes-150 kr/24 hours, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-185 kr/day, Vendersgade 23, S-tog: Nørreport, tel. 33 13 19 13, www.ibsenshotel.dk, hotel@ibsenshotel.dk).
$$ Hotel Jørgensen is a friendly little 30-room hotel in a great location just off Nørreport, kitty-corner from the bustling TorvehallerneKBH food market. With some cheap, grungy rooms and some good-value, nicer rooms, it’s a fine budget option, though a bit worn around the edges. While the lounge is welcoming, the halls are a narrow, tangled maze (basic S-475-525 kr, Sb-675-725 kr, very basic D-750-800 kr, nicer Db-875-950 kr, cheaper off-season, extra bed-200 kr, Wi-Fi, Rømersgade 11, tel. 33 13 81 86, www.hoteljoergensen.dk, hoteljoergensen@mail.dk). They also rent 175-200-kr dorm beds to those under 35 (4-12 beds per room, sheets-30 kr, breakfast-45 kr).
$$$ 71 Nyhavn has 150 smallish, rustic, but very classy rooms in a pair of beautifully restored, early-19th-century brick warehouses located at the far end of the colorful Nyhavn canal. With a professional, polite staff, lots of old brick and heavy timbers, and plenty of style, it’s a worthwhile splurge (Sb-1,000-1,500 kr, Db-1,200-1,700 kr, 200 kr more for canal-view “superior” rooms, 200 kr more for larger “executive” rooms, rates vary depending on demand, some rates include breakfast—otherwise 170 kr, air-con in one of the buildings, guest computer, Wi-Fi, next to the Playhouse at Nyhavn 71, tel. 33 43 62 00, www.71nyhavnhotel.dk, 71nyhavnhotel@arp-hansen.dk).
$$ Hotel Bethel Sømandshjem (“Seamen’s Home”), run by a Lutheran association, is a calm and stately former seamen’s hotel facing the boisterous Nyhavn canal and offering 29 tired but cozy rooms at the most reasonable rack rates in town. While the decor is college-dorm-inspired, the hotel boasts a kind, welcoming staff and feels surprisingly comfortable once you settle in. Plus, the colorful Nyhavn neighborhood is a great place to “come home” to after a busy day of sightseeing. Book long in advance (Sb-745 kr, large Sb-845 kr, Db-945 kr, larger “view” Db-1,045 kr, biggest corner Db-1,145 kr, extra bed-200 kr, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Metro to Kongens Nytorv, facing bridge over the canal at Nyhavn 22, tel. 33 13 03 70, www.hotel-bethel.dk, info@hotel-bethel.dk).
The area behind the train station mingles elegant old buildings, trendy nightspots, and pockets of modern sleaze. The main drag running away from the station, Istedgade, has long been Copenhagen’s red-light district; but increasingly, this area is gentrified and feels safe (in spite of the few remaining, harmless sex shops). These hotels are also extremely handy to the up-and-coming Meatpacking District restaurant zone.
$$$ Axel Hotel and $$$ Carlton Hotel, operated by the Guldsmeden (“Dragonfly”) company, have more character than most—a restful spa-like ambience decorated with imported Balinese furniture, and an emphasis on sustainability and organic materials. I’ve listed average prices, but rates can change dramatically, depending on when you book—check their website for the best deals (Axel: Sb-845-975 kr, Db-985-1,145 kr, breakfast-170 kr, 129 rooms, request a quieter back room overlooking the pleasant garden, guest computer, Wi-Fi, restful spa area with sauna and Jacuzzi-295 kr/person per stay, a block behind the train station at Helgolandsgade 7, tel. 33 31 32 66, booking@hotelguldsmeden.com; Carlton: a bit cheaper than Axel, 64 rooms, Vesterbrogade 66, tel. 33 22 15 00, carlton@hotelguldsmeden.com). They share a website: www.hotelguldsmeden.com.
$$ Star Hotel has 134 charmless, cookie-cutter rooms at reasonable prices. Rates vary with the season and online specials (Sb-700-1,300 kr, Db-875-1,555 kr but usually around 950-1,000 kr, some rates include breakfast—otherwise 85 kr, guest computer, Wi-Fi, nice courtyard out back, Colbjørnsensgade 13, tel. 33 22 11 00, www.copenhagenstar.dk, star@copenhagenstar.dk).
$$ Hotel Nebo, a secure-feeling refuge with a friendly welcome and 84 comfy rooms, is a half-block from the station (S-420 kr, Sb-620 kr, D-650-700 kr, Db-900-950 kr, most rates include breakfast—otherwise 65 kr, cheaper Oct-April, periodic online deals, extra bed-200 kr, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Istedgade 6, tel. 33 21 12 17, www.nebo.dk, nebo@nebo.dk).
$$ Wake Up Copenhagen offers new, compact, slick, and stylish rooms (similar to but a notch more upscale-feeling than Cab-Inn, described next). The rates can range wildly (Db-600-2,400 kr), and their pricing structure is like the airlines’ in that the further ahead and less flexibly you book, the less you pay (average rates are about Sb-500 kr, Db-750 kr). Rooms that are higher up—with better views and quieter—are also more expensive, and you can pay 200 kr extra for a larger room. It’s in a desolate no-man’s-land behind the station, between the train tracks and the harbor—about a 15-minute walk from the station or Tivoli, but ideal for biking (breakfast-70 kr, Wi-Fi, bike rental, Carsten Niebuhrs Gade 11, tel. 44 80 00 00, www.wakeupcopenhagen.com, wakeupcopenhagen@arp-hansen.dk).
$$ Cab-Inn is a radical innovation and a great value, with several locations in Copenhagen (as well as Odense, Aarhus, and elsewhere): identical, mostly collapsible, tiny but comfy, cruise-ship-type staterooms, all bright, molded, and shiny, with TV, coffeepot, shower, and toilet. Each room has a single bed that expands into a twin-bedded room with one or two fold-down bunks on the walls. It’s tough to argue with this kind of efficiency (general rates: teensy “economy” Sb-495 kr, Db-625 kr; still small “standard” Sb-545 kr, Db-675 kr, flip-down bunk Tb-805 kr; larger “commodore” Sb-645 kr, Db-775 kr; relatively gigantic “captain’s” Sb-745 kr, Db-875; larger family rooms also available, breakfast-70 kr, easy parking-60 kr, guest computer, Wi-Fi, www.cabinn.com). The best of the bunch is Cab-Inn City, with 350 rooms and a great central location (a short walk south of the main train station and Tivoli at Mitchellsgade 14, tel. 33 46 16 16, city@cabinn.com). Two more, nearly identical Cab-Inns are a 15-minute walk northwest of the station: Cab-Inn Copenhagen Express (86 rooms, Danasvej 32, tel. 33 21 04 00, express@cabinn.com) and Cab-Inn Scandinavia (201 rooms, some quads, Vodroffsvej 55, tel. 35 36 11 11, scandinavia@cabinn.com). The newest and largest is Cab-Inn Metro, near the Ørestad Metro station (710 rooms, some quads, on the airport side of town at Arne Jakobsens Allé 2, tel. 32 46 57 00, metro@cabinn.com).
At about 650 kr or so per double, staying in a private home can be a great value. While these accommodations offer a fine peek into Danish domestic life, the experience can be as private or as social as you want it to be. Hosts generally speak English, and you’ll get a key and can come and go as you like. Rooms generally have no sink, and the bathroom’s down the hall. They usually don’t include breakfast, but you’ll have access to the kitchen. I’ve listed an agency with a website that represents scores of fine places and—if you’d rather book direct—a couple of good B&Bs in Christianshavn.
$$ Sankt Annæ B&B, centrally located near my favorite Christianshavn sights, offers five clean, comfortable rooms with two shared bathrooms in a 250-year-old townhouse (S-600 kr, D-800 kr, larger D-1,000 kr, lower prices off-season, breakfast-80 kr at choice of three neighborhood cafés, single faces street so expect some noise, no elevator, Wi-Fi, communal kitchen, peaceful courtyard in back, Sankt Annæ Gade 10, Metro: Christianshavn, tel. 20 73 39 15, www.sabnb.dk, info@sabnb.dk).
$ Bed & Breakfast Denmark has served as a clearinghouse for local B&Bs since 1992. Peter Eberth and his staff take a 20-30 percent cut (the “deposit” you pay) but monitor quality. Given the high cost of hostels and hotels and the way local B&B hosts come and go, this is a fine and worthwhile service. Peter’s website lets you choose the type and location of place best for you and gives you the necessary details when you pay. He has piles of good local rooms in central apartments (D-500 kr, Db-550-700 kr). He’s located near the station at Sankt Peders Stræde 41, but there’s no reason to visit his office (tel. 39 61 04 05, www.bbdk.dk).
$ Esben Juhl rents two spic-and-span, bright rooms in his beautiful Christianshavn apartment, close to the harbor and canal. You’ll be sharing Esben’s bathroom, and if he books both rooms, he’ll actually be sleeping out in the living room; if these sound like too-close quarters, look elsewhere. But Esben is soft-spoken and kind, and enjoys treating his guests like houseguests, making this a good opportunity to connect with a local (S-400 kr, D-500 kr, extra bed-150 kr, includes light breakfast, cash only, Wi-Fi, David Balfours Gade 5, Metro: Christianshavn, tel. 32 57 39 08, mobile 27 40 12 15, mail@esju.dk).
$ Danhostel Copenhagen City, an official HI hostel, is the hostel of the future. This huge harborside skyscraper (1,004 beds on 16 stories) is clean, modern, non-smoking, and a 10-minute walk from the train station and Tivoli. Some rooms on higher floors have panoramic views over the city (available on a first-come, first-served basis). This is your best bet for a clean, basic, and inexpensive room in the city center (dorm beds in 6-bed rooms with bathrooms-135-225 kr, some co-ed, some separate; Sb/Db/Qb-650-775 kr, price depends on demand—check online for deals, sheets and towel-60 kr, breakfast-74 kr, nonmembers pay 60 kr/night extra, elevator, lockers, kitchen, self-service laundry, pay guest computer, Wi-Fi, rental bikes, H. C. Andersens Boulevard 50, tel. 33 11 85 85, www.danhostelcopenhagencity.dk, copenhagencity@danhostel.dk).
$ Copenhagen Downtown is beautifully located on a pleasant street right in the city center, a few steps from Slotsholmen Island and two blocks from the Strøget. Its 300 beds are a bit institutional, but it promises free dinner and comes with a guest kitchen and a colorful, fun hangout bar, which doubles as the reception (rates vary with demand, bunk in 4- to 10-bed dorm-165-250 kr, D-500-750 kr, 100 kr more for a private bathroom, includes sheets, breakfast-65 kr, laundry facilities, Wi-Fi, Vandkunsten 5, tel. 70 23 21 10, www.copenhagendowntown.com, info@copenhagendowntown.com).
$ City Public Hostel houses travelers late May through August; the rest of the year, it’s a latchkey program for local kids. It’s well-run, welcomes people of all ages, and has a great location behind the Copenhagen City Museum on Vesterbrogade. With its sprawling grassy front yard, you can even forget you’re in the middle of a big city (140 kr/bed in massive 66-bed room, 150 kr/bed in 32- or 22-bed dorm, 160 kr/bed in 12-bed dorm, 170 kr/bed in 10- or 6-bed dorm, sheets-60 kr, no breakfast, relaxing lounge, 10-minute walk behind main train station at Absalonsgade 8, tel. 36 98 11 66, www.citypublichostel.dk, info@citypublichostel.dk).
$ Danhostel Copenhagen Amager, an official HI hostel, is on the edge of town (dorm bed-160 kr, S-390 kr, Sb-490 kr, D-430 kr, Db-530 kr, T-530 kr, Tb-630 kr, Q-690 kr, Qb-750 kr, members save about 35 kr, sheets-45 kr, breakfast-60 kr, family rooms, no curfew, excellent facilities, pay guest computer, Wi-Fi, self-serve laundry, Vejlands Allé 200, tel. 32 52 29 08, www.danhostelcopenhagen.dk, copenhagen@danhostel.dk). To get from downtown to the hostel, take the Metro (Metro: Bella Center, then 10-minute walk).
For a quick lunch, try a smørrebrød, a pølse, or a picnic. Finish it off with a pastry.
Denmark’s 300-year-old tradition of open-face sandwiches survives. Find a smørrebrød takeout shop and choose two or three that look good (about 25 kr each). You’ll get them wrapped and ready for a park bench. Add a cold drink, and you have a fine, quick, and very Danish lunch. Tradition calls for three sandwich courses: herring first, then meat, and then cheese. Downtown, you’ll find these handy local alternatives to Yankee fast-food chains. They range from splurges to quick stop-offs.
My three favorite smørrebrød places are particularly handy when connecting your sightseeing between the downtown Strøget core and Rosenborg Castle.
Restaurant Schønnemann is the foodies’ choice—it has been written up in international magazines and frequently wins awards for “Best Lunch in Copenhagen.” It’s a cozy cellar restaurant crammed with small tables—according to the history on the menu, people “gather here in intense togetherness.” The sand on the floor evokes a bygone era when passing traders would leave their horses out on the square while they lunched here. You’ll need to reserve to get a table, and you’ll pay a premium for their smørrebrød (70-170 kr, two lunch seatings Mon-Sat: 11:30-14:00 & 14:14-17:00, closed Sun, no dinner, Hauser Plads 16, tel. 33 12 07 85, www.restaurantschonnemann.dk).
Café Halvvejen is a small mom-and-pop place serving traditional lunches and open-face sandwiches in a woody and smoke-stained café, lined with portraits of Danish royalty. You can eat inside or at an outside table in good weather (50-70-kr smørrebrød, 80-110-kr main dishes, food served Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00, closed Sun, next to public library at Krystalgade 11, tel. 33 11 91 12). In the evening, it becomes a hip and smoky student hangout, though no food is served.
Slagteren ved Kultorvet, a few blocks northwest of the university, is a small butcher shop with bowler-hatted clerks selling good, inexpensive sandwiches to go for about 35 kr. Choose from ham, beef, or pork (Mon-Thu 8:00-17:30, Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-15:00, closed Sun, just off Kultorvet square at #4 Frederiksborggade, look for gold bull’s head hanging outside).
These eateries are good choices when sightseeing on Slotsholmen.
Kanal Caféen, on Frederiksholms Kanal across from Christiansborg Palace, serves lunch only and is a nice place for a traditional open-face sandwich. Inside, you’ll rub elbows with locals in what feels like the cozy confines of a low-ceilinged old sailing ship; outside you can dine right above the canal and watch the tour boats go by (60-90-kr sandwiches, Mon-Fri 11:30-17:00, Sat 11:30-15:00, closed Sun, Frederiksholms Kanal 18, tel. 33 11 57 70).
Café Diamanten serves open-face sandwiches, warm dishes, and salads—and pours microbrews from the tap. Take a seat inside the comfy café or under the parasols out front, with a view across the square to Thorvaldsen’s Museum (65-95-kr sandwiches, Mon-Fri 10:00-20:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00, Gammel Strand 50, tel. 33 93 55 45).
Burgers: Cock’s & Cows is a trendy burger-and-cocktail bar with a happy, young vibe on an elegant street. Eat inside the brick-walled restaurant or in the courtyard out back (90-130-kr burgers—some piled almost ridiculously high, Sun-Thu 12:00-21:30, Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30, Gammel Strand 34, tel. 69 69 60 00).
Café Nytorv has pleasant outdoor seating on Nytorv (with cozy indoor tables available nearby) and a great deal on a smørrebrød sampler for about 200 kr—perfect for two people to share (if you smile, they’ll serve it for dinner even though it’s only on the lunch menu). This “Copenhagen City Plate” gives you a selection of the traditional sandwiches and extra bread on request (daily 9:00-22:00, Nytorv 15, tel. 33 11 77 06).
Sorgenfri offers a local experience in a dark, woody spot just off the Strøget (80-100 kr, Mon-Sat 11:00-20:45, Sun 12:00-18:00, Brolæggerstræde 8, tel. 33 11 58 80).
Or duck (literally) into Kronborg Dansk Restaurant, across the street from Sorgenfri, for finer-quality smørrebrød in a wood-beamed nautical setting (90-110-kr meat and fish sandwiches plus herring specialties, Mon-Sat 11:00-17:00, closed Sun, Brolæggerstræde 12, tel. 33 13 07 08).
Another option is Domhusets Smørrebrød (Mon-Fri 8:00-15:00, closed Sat-Sun, off the City Hall end of the Strøget at Kattesundet 18, tel. 33 15 98 98).
The famous Danish hot dog, sold in pølsevogne (sausage wagons) throughout the country, is another typically Danish institution that has resisted the onslaught of our global, prepackaged, fast-food culture. Study the photo menu for variations. These are fast, cheap, tasty, and, like their American cousins, almost worthless nutritionally. Even so, what the locals call the “dead man’s finger” is the dog Danish kids love to bite.
There’s more to getting a pølse than simply ordering a “hot dog” (which in Copenhagen simply means a sausage with a bun on the side, generally the worst bread possible). The best is a ristet (or grilled) hot dog med det hele (with the works). Employ these other handy phrases: rød (red, the basic boiled weenie), medister (spicy, better quality), knæk (short, stubby, tastier than rød), brød (a bun, usually smaller than the sausage), svøb (“swaddled” in bacon), Fransk (French style, buried in a long skinny hole in the bun with sauce). Sennep is mustard and ristet løg are crispy, fried onions. Wash everything down with a sodavand (soda pop).
By hanging around a pølsevogn, you can study this institution. Denmark’s “cold feet cafés” are a form of social care: People who have difficulty finding jobs are licensed to run these wiener-mobiles. As they gain seniority, they are promoted to work at more central locations. Danes like to gather here for munchies and pølsesnak—the local slang for empty chatter (literally, “sausage talk”). And traditionally, after getting drunk, guys stop here for a hot dog and chocolate milk on the way home—that’s why the stands stay open until the wee hours.
For sausages a cut above (and from a storefront—not a cart), stop by the little grill restaurant Andersen Bakery, directly across the street from the train station (next to the Tivoli entrance). The menu is limited—either pork or veal/beef—but the ingredients are high-quality and the weenies are tasty (50-kr gourmet dogs, daily 7:00-19:00, Bernstorffsgade 5, tel. 33 75 07 35).
Throughout Copenhagen, small delis (viktualiehandler) sell fresh bread, tasty pastries, juice, milk, cheese, and yogurt (drinkable, in tall liter boxes). Two of the largest supermarket chains are Irma (in the glassy DI—Danish Industry—building on Vesterbrogade next to Tivoli) and Super Brugsen. Netto is a cut-rate outfit with the cheapest prices and a good bakery section. And, of course, there’s the ever-present 7-Eleven chain, with branches seemingly on every corner; while you’ll pay a bit more here, there’s a reason they’re called “convenience” stores—and they also serve pastries and hot dogs.
The golden pretzel sign hanging over the door or windows is the Danes’ age-old symbol for a bakery. Danish pastries, called wienerbrød (“Vienna bread”) in Denmark, are named for the Viennese bakers who brought the art of pastry-making to Denmark, where the Danes say they perfected it. Try these bakeries: Lagkagehuset (multiple locations around town; the handiest options include one right in the train station, another nearby inside the TI, one along the Strøget at Frederiksborggade 21, and another on Torvegade just across from the Metro station in Christianshavn) and Nansens (on corner of Nansensgade and Ahlefeldtsgade, near Ibsens Hotel). Emmerys, a trendy, gluten-free, Starbucks-like organic bakery and café, has more than 20 branches around Copenhagen, and sells good pastries and sandwiches. For a genteel bit of high-class 1870s Copenhagen, pay a lot for a coffee and a fresh Danish at Konditori La Glace, just off the Strøget at Skoubogade 3.
I’ve listed restaurants in four areas: the downtown core, the funky Christianshavn neighborhood across the harbor, near Nørreport, and in the trendy Meatpacking District behind the main train station.
Det Lille Apotek (“The Little Pharmacy”) is a reasonable, candlelit place. It’s been popular with locals for 200 years, and today it’s a hit with tourists. Their specialty is “Stone Beef,” a big slab of tender, raw steak plopped down and cooked in front of you on a scalding-hot soapstone. Cut it into smaller pieces and it’s cooked within minutes (traditional dinners for 125-190 kr, nightly from 17:30, just off the Strøget, between Frue Church and Round Tower at Store Kannikestræde 15, tel. 33 12 56 06).
Café Sommersko is a venerable eatery serving French-inspired Danish dishes in an elegant setting (125-165-kr lunches, 145-230-kr main courses, 300-kr three-course dinner, daily 11:00-22:30, Kronprinsensgade 6, tel. 33 14 81 89).
Riz-Raz Vegetarian Buffet has two locations in Copenhagen: around the corner from the canal boat rides at Kompagnistræde 20 (tel. 33 15 05 75) and across from Det Lille Apotek at Store Kannikestræde 19 (tel. 33 32 33 45). At both places, you’ll find a healthy all-you-can-eat Middle Eastern/Mediterranean/vegetarian buffet lunch for 80 kr (cheese but no meat, great falafel, daily 11:30-16:00) and a bigger dinner buffet for 100 kr (16:00-24:00). Use lots of plates and return to the buffet as many times as you like. Tap water is 11 kr per jug.
Tight resembles a trendy gastropub, serving an eclectic international array of food and drink (Canadian, Aussie, French, and burgers, with Danish microbrews) in a split-level maze of hip rooms that mix old timbers and brick with bright colors (150-200-kr main courses, 140-kr burgers, daily 17:00-22:00, just off the Strøget at Hyskenstræde 10, tel. 33 11 09 00).
Café Norden, very Danish with modern “world cuisine,” good light meals, and fine pastries, is a big, venerable institution overlooking Amagertorv by the heron fountain. It’s family-friendly, with good seats outside on the square, in the busy ground-floor interior, or with more space and better views upstairs (great people-watching from the window seats). Order at the bar—it’s the same price upstairs or down. Consider their 185-kr Nordic tapa plate or their 170-kr “triple salad” (120-170-kr sandwiches and salads, 150-kr main courses, huge splittable portions, daily 9:00-24:00, Østergade 61, tel. 33 11 77 91).
Royal Smushi Café is a hit with dainty people who like the idea of small, gourmet, open-face sandwiches served on Royal Copenhagen porcelain. You can sit in their modern chandeliered interior or the quiet courtyard (3 little “smushi” sandwiches for 135 kr, Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00, next to Royal Copenhagen porcelain store at Amagertorv 6, tel. 33 12 11 22).
Holberg No. 19, a cozy American-run café with classic ambience, sits just a block off the tourist crush of the Nyhavn canal. With a loose, friendly, low-key vibe, it offers more personality and lower prices than the tourist traps along Nyhavn (no real kitchen but 65-95-kr salads and sandwiches, selection of wines and beers, order at the bar, Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-18:00, Holberg 19, tel. 33 14 01 90).
Københavner Caféen, cozy and a bit tired, feels like a ship captain’s dining room. The staff is enthusiastically traditional, serving local dishes and elegant open-face sandwiches for a good value. Lunch specials (80-100 kr) are served until 17:00, when the more expensive dinner menu kicks in (plates for 120-200 kr, daily, kitchen closes at 22:00, at Badstuestræde 10, tel. 33 32 80 81).
The Ricemarket, an unpretentious Asian fusion bistro, is buried in a modern cellar between the Strøget and Rosenborg Castle. It’s a casual, more affordable side-eatery of a popular local restaurant, and offers a flavorful break from Danish food (65-95-kr small dishes, 115-185-kr big dishes, seven-dish family-style meal for 285 kr, daily 12:00-22:00, Hausergade 38 near Kultorvet, tel. 35 35 75 30).
Illum and Magasin du Nord department stores serve cheery, reasonable meals in their cafeterias. At Illum, eat outside at tables along the Strøget, or head to the elegant glass-domed top floor (Østergade 52). Magasin du Nord (Kongens Nytorv 13) also has a great grocery and deli in the basement.
Also try Café Nytorv at Nytorv 15 or Sorgenfri at Brolæggerstræde 8 (both are described under “Smørrebrød,” earlier).
This neighborhood is so cool, it’s worth combining an evening wander with dinner. It’s a 10-minute walk across the bridge from the old center, or a 3-minute ride on the Metro. Choose one of my listings, or simply wander the blocks between Christianshavns Torv, the main square, and the Christianshavn Canal—you’ll find a number of lively neighborhood pubs and cafés.
Ravelinen Restaurant, on a tiny island on the big road 100 yards south of Christianshavn, serves traditional Danish food at reasonable prices to happy local crowds. Dine indoors or on the lovely lakeside terrace (which is tented and heated, so it’s comfortable even on blustery evenings). This is like Tivoli without the kitsch and tourists. They offer a shareable “Cold Table” meal for 200 kr at lunch only (80-130-kr lunch dishes, 180-280-kr dinners, mid-April-late Dec daily 11:30-21:00, closed off-season, Torvegade 79, tel. 32 96 20 45).
Bastionen & Løven, at the little windmill (Lille Mølle), serves gourmet Danish nouveau cuisine with a French inspiration from a small but fresh menu, on a Renoir terrace or in its Rembrandt interior. The classiest, dressiest, and most gourmet of all my listings, this restaurant fills a classic old mansion. Reservations for indoor dining are required; they don’t take reservations for outdoor seating, as weather is unpredictable (95-175-kr lunches, 200-kr dinners, 375-kr three-course meal; Tue-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, closed Mon; walk to end of Torvegade and follow ramparts up to restaurant, at south end of Christianshavn, Christianshavn Voldgade 50, tel. 31 34 09 40, www.bastionenloven.dk).
Lagkagehuset is everybody’s favorite bakery in Christianshavn. With a big selection of pastries, sandwiches, excellent fresh-baked bread, and award-winning strawberry tarts, it’s a great place for breakfast or picnic fixings (pastries for less than 20 kr, take-out coffee for 30 kr, daily 6:00-19:00, Torvegade 45).
Ethnic Strip on Christianshavn’s Main Drag: Torvegade, which is within a few minutes’ walk of the Christianshavn Metro station, is lined with appealing and inexpensive ethnic eateries, including Italian, cheap kebabs, Thai, Chinese, and more. Spicy Kitchen serves cheap and good Indian food—tight and cozy, it’s a hit with locals (80-kr plates, daily 17:00-23:00, Torvegade 56).
In Christiania: Spiseloppen (“The Flea Eats”) is a wonderfully classy place in Christiania. It serves great 140-kr vegetarian meals and 175-250-kr meaty ones by candlelight. It’s gourmet anarchy—a good fit for Christiania, the free city/squatter town (Tue-Sun 17:00-22:00, kitchen closes at 21:00, closed Mon, reservations often necessary Fri-Sat; 3 blocks behind spiral spire of Our Savior’s Church, on top floor of old brick warehouse, turn right just inside Christiania’s main gate, enter the wildly empty warehouse, and climb the graffiti-riddled stairs; tel. 32 57 95 58, http://spiseloppen.dk).
TorvehallerneKBH is in a pair of modern, glassy market halls right on Israel Plads. Survey both halls and the stalls on the square before settling in. In addition to produce, fish, and meat stalls, it has several inviting food counters where you can sit to eat a meal, or grab something to go. I can’t think of a more enjoyable place in Copenhagen to browse for a meal than this upscale food court (pricey but fun, with quality food; Tue-Thu 10:00-19:00, Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-15:00, most places closed Mon; Frederiksborggade 21).
Brdr. Price Restaurant—an elegant, highly regarded bistro serving creative Danish and international meals just across from Rosenborg Castle—is good for a dressy splurge (150-250-kr main courses, daily 12:00-22:00, Rosenborggade 15, tel. 38 41 10 20, www.brdr-price.dk). They have a more formal, classic French-Danish restaurant downstairs.
Halifax, part of a small local chain, serves up “build-your-own” burgers, where you select a patty, a side dish, and a dipping sauce for your fries (120-135 kr, daily 12:00-22:00, Sun until 21:00, Frederiksborggade 35, tel. 33 32 77 11). They have another location just off the Strøget (at Larsbjørnsstræde 9).
Literally “Meat Town,” Kødbyen is an old warehouse zone huddled up against the train tracks behind the main station. Danes raise about 25 million pigs a year (five per person), so there’s long been lots of “meatpacking.” Today, much of the meatpacking action is diners chowing down.
There are three color-coded sectors in the district—brown, gray, and white—and each one is a cluster of old industrial buildings. At the far end is the white zone (Den Hvide Kødby), which has been overtaken by some of the city’s most trendy and enjoyable eateries, which mingle with the surviving offices and warehouses of the local meatpacking industry. All of the places I list here are within a few steps of each other (except for the Mother pizzeria, a block away).
The curb appeal of this area is zilch (it looks like, well, a meatpacking district), but inside, these restaurants are bursting with life, creativity, and flavor. While youthful and trendy, this scene is also very accessible. Most of these eateries are in buildings with old white tile; this, combined with the considerable popularity of this area, can make the dining rooms quite loud. These places can fill up, especially on weekend evenings, when it’s smart to reserve ahead.
It’s a short stroll from the station: If you go south on the bridge called Tietgens Bro, which crosses the tracks just south of the station, and carry on for about 10 minutes, you’ll run right into the area. Those sleeping in the hotels behind the station just stroll five minutes south. Or you can ride the S-tog to the Dybbølsbro stop.
Kødbyens Fiskebar (“Fish Bar”) is one of the first and still the most acclaimed restaurant in the Meatpacking District. Focusing on small, thoughtfully composed plates of modern Nordic seafood, the Fiskebar has a stripped-down white interior with a big fish tank and a long cocktail bar surrounded by smaller tables. It’s extremely popular (reservations are essential), and feels a bit too trendy for its own good. While the prices are high, so is the quality; diners are paying for a taste of the “New Nordic” style of cooking that’s so in vogue here (100-145-kr small plates, 200-245-kr main courses; open in summer daily from 18:00, in winter generally closed Sat-Sun; Flæsketorvet 100, tel. 32 15 56 56, http://fiskebaren.dk).
BioMio, in the old Bosch building, serves rustic Danish, vegan, and vegetarian dishes, plus meat and fish. It’s 100-percent organic, and the young boss, Rune, actually serves diners (200-kr plates, daily 12:00-22:00, Halmtorvet 19, tel. 33 31 20 00, http://biomio.dk).
Paté Paté, next door to BioMio, is a tight, rollicking bistro in a former pâté factory. While a wine bar at heart—with a good selection of wines by the glass—it has a fun and accessible menu of creative modern dishes and a cozy atmosphere rare in the Meatpacking District. Ideally diners choose about three dishes per person and share (Mon-Sat from 17:30, closed Sun, Slagterboderne 1, tel. 39 69 55 57, www.patepate.dk).
Kødbyens Deli is this district’s budget fast-food joint, serving chili, fish-and-chips, and burgers. You can take it away or eat there on humble tables (70-kr plates, daily 17:00-21:00, facing Paté Paté at Slagterboderne 8, tel. 24 84 09 82).
Pizzeria Mother is named for the way the sourdough for their crust must be “fed” and cared for to flourish. You can taste that care in the pizza, which has a delicious tangy crust. Out front are comfortable picnic benches, while the interior curls around the busy pizza oven with chefs working globs of dough that will soon be the basis for your pizza (75-150-kr pizzas, daily 11:00-23:00, a block beyond the other restaurants listed here at Høkerboderne 9, tel. 22 27 58 98).
Nose2Tail Madbodega (mad means “food”) prides itself on locally sourced, sustainable cooking, using the entire animal for your meal (hence the name). You’ll climb down some stairs into an unpretentious white-tiled cellar (50-kr small plates, 70-180-kr large plates, Mon-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun, Flæsketorvet 13A, tel. 33 93 50 45, http://nose2tail.dk).
To find a good restaurant, try simply window-shopping in one of these inviting districts.
Nyhavn’s harbor canal is lined with a touristy strip of restaurants set alongside its classic sailboats. Here thriving crowds are served mediocre, overpriced food in a great setting. On any sunny day, if you want steak and fries (120 kr) and a 50-kr beer, this can be fun. On Friday and Saturday, the strip becomes the longest bar in the world.
Kompagnistræde is home to a changing cast of great little eateries. Running parallel to the Strøget, this street has fewer tourists and lower rent, and encourages places to compete creatively for the patronage of local diners.
Gråbrødretorv (“Grey Friars’ Square”) is perhaps the most popular square in the old center for a meal. It’s like a food court, especially in good weather. Choose from Italian, French, or Danish. Two steakhouses are Jensen’s Bøfhus, a kid-friendly chain (100-kr burgers, 120-220-kr main dishes), and the pricier but better Bøf & Ost (170-250-kr main dishes). Skildpadden (“The Turtle”) is a student hit, with make-it-yourself sandwiches (70 kr, choose the type of bread, salami, and cheese you want) and a 60-kr salad bar, plus draft beer. It’s in a cozy cellar with three little tables on the lively square (daily 10:00-20:00, Gråbrødretorv 9, tel. 33 13 05 06).
Istedgade and the surrounding streets behind the train station (just above the Meatpacking District) are home to an assortment of inexpensive ethnic restaurants. You will find numerous places serving kebabs, pizza, Chinese, and Thai (including tasty 65-130-kr meals at Poonchai Thai Restaurant—across the street from Hotel Nebo at Istedgade 1). The area can be a bit seedy, especially right behind the station, but walk a few blocks away to take your pick of inexpensive, ethnic eateries frequented by locals.
From Copenhagen by Train to: Hillerød/Frederiksborg Castle (6/hour, 40 minutes on S-tog), Roskilde (5/hour, 30 minutes), Humlebæk/Louisiana Art Museum (3/hour, 30 minutes), Helsingør (3/hour, 45 minutes), Odense (3/hour, 1.5 hours), Ærøskøbing (2/hour Mon-Sat, hourly on Sun, 2.5 hours to Svendborg with a transfer in Odense, then 1.25-hour ferry crossing to Ærøskøbing), Billund/Legoland (2/hour, 2-2.5 hours to Vejle, then bus to Billund, allow 3.5 hours total), Aarhus (2/hour, 3 hours), Malmö (3-5/hour, 35 minutes), Stockholm (almost hourly, 5-6 hours on high-speed train, some with a transfer at Malmö or Lund, reservation required; overnight service available but requires a change in Hässleholm or Lund), Växjö (hourly, 2.5 hours), Kalmar (hourly, 3.5-4 hours, most direct, some transfer in Alvesta), Oslo (3/day, 8.5-9.5 hours, transfer at Göteborg and Halden; also overnight boat option, described later), Berlin (4/day, 7 hours, reservation required, one direct, others change in Hamburg), Amsterdam (3/day with two changes, 11 hours, more with multiple changes), and Frankfurt/Rhine (4/day, 8.5-11 hours, most change in Hamburg, more with multiple stops). Train info tel. 70 13 14 15 (for English, press 1 for general information and tickets, and 2 for international trains). DSB (or Danske Statsbaner) is Denmark’s national railway, www.rejseplanen.dk.
By Bus: Taking the bus to Stockholm is cheaper but more time-consuming than taking the train (2/day, 9.5 hours, longer for overnight trips, www.swebus.se).
More than half a million people visit Copenhagen via cruise ship each year. For a wealth of online information for cruise-ship passengers, see www.cruisecopenhagen.com. For more in-depth cruising information, pick up my Rick Steves Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook.
Most cruise ships use one of three terminals, all north of downtown—Oceankaj, the farthest port from town; Frihavnen (“Freeport”), about three miles from the city center; and Langelinie Pier, about a mile closer to downtown.
Getting Downtown: Bus #26 is a handy way to connect any of the cruise ports to various points in downtown Copenhagen, including Kongens Nytorv (big square near Nyhavn); Holmenskirke (church facing Slotsholmen Island and starting point for harbor cruises); Christiansborg Palace; Nationalmuseet (National Museum); Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square); and Hoevdbanegården (main train station, across the street from Tivoli). It runs about every 10 minutes from stops near the ports, and the ride downtown takes about 20 minutes (be sure to take a bus going in the direction of Ålholm Plads). Note that on Saturday and Sunday, bus #26 runs as a “Cruise Ship Shuttle” from these ports to the Østerport train station and back. At Østerport you can either catch the S-tog into the city center or board a regular bus #26 for the rest of the trip into town—be sure to ask for a transfer when you get on the #26 shuttle. The bus costs 24 kr (or 80 kr for a 24-hour pass). The driver takes credit cards (you’ll need your PIN) and euros (figure about €3 for a simple ticket; you’ll get change back in Danish kroner). If taking bus #26 back to your ship, make sure you get on the right bus, as the line splits to go to either Langelinie Pier or the other two cruise ports (ask driver).
Langelinie and Frihavnen are both about a 10- to 15-minute walk from a train station on Copenhagen’s S-tog suburban rail line, from which you can hop on a train headed downtown, with stops at Nørreport (near Rosenborg Palace); København H (main train station); and Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square). From Frihavnen or Oceankaj, many cruise lines offer a shuttle bus straight to Kongens Nytorv and/or Rådhuspladsen, generally for a fee. From Langelinie, you can walk or take a hop-on, hop-off bus into town. Taking a taxi to downtown is easy but expensive from any port (around 160 kr from Langelinie, 200 kr or more from the others).
Port Details: There are no ATMs at the piers. You’ll need to head into town to draw out money.
Langelinie Pier, jutting out from the north end of Kastellet Park, has two berths for big ships, a pier-front road with stops for taxis and hop-on, hop-off buses, and a row of cruise-oriented shops (duty-free, outlet stores). You can ride bus #26 (stops near the entrance to the pier, to the right of the roundabout on Indiakaj street); hop on a hop-on, hop-off bus; or walk. Head to the base of the pier, cross to the mainland, then either bear left to find The Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue; about a 10-minute walk), or right to circle around Kastellet Fortress and find Østerport train station for a speedy train downtown.
Frihavnen, a bit farther out, is a sprawling industrial zone with several cruise piers (called Sundkaj, Orientkaj, Fortkaj, and—farther to the north—Levantkaj). The first three piers are within an easy 5- to 10-minute walk of the port gate (just follow the thick blue line painted on the sidewalk); from Levantkaj, the cruise line offers a free shuttle bus to the gate. Exiting the port gate, bear right to find the stop for bus #26. To reach the Nordhavn train station, cross the highway called Kalkbrænderihavnsgade and go under the railway underpass, then immediately turn left (on Østbanegade). Walk along this residential street, with the elevated train tracks on your left, until you reach the station.
Oceankaj has three terminals. If your ship docks at Terminal 1, it’s a short walk across the street past a cluster of kiosks and down the main road leading away from the cruise port to the stop for bus #26. If your ship arrives at the more distant Terminals 2 or 3, it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk along the harborfront road to Terminal 1, where you’ll turn right at the kiosks and go a short distance down the main road to the bus #26 stop.
Luxurious DFDS Seaways cruise ships leave daily from Copenhagen at 16:30 and arrive in Oslo at 9:45 the next day (17-hour sailing). They also depart from Oslo at 16:30 for the return to Copenhagen, allowing you to spend about seven hours in Norway’s capital if doing it as a day trip.
Cruise Costs: Cabins vary dramatically in price depending on the day and season (most expensive on weekends and late June-mid-Aug; cheapest on weekdays and Oct-April). For example, a bed in a four-berth “Seaways” shoehorn economy cabin starts at 410 kr/person one-way for four people traveling together (500 kr with a window); a luxurious double “Commodore class” cabin higher on the ship starts at 950 kr/person one-way (and includes a TV, minibar, and free breakfast buffet). A “mini-cruise” round-trip with a day in Oslo and no meals starts at 600 kr/person in an economy double cabin. All cabins have private bathrooms inside.
Onboard Services: DFDS Seaways operates two ships on this route—the MS Pearl of Scandinavia and the MS Crown of Scandinavia. Both offer all the cruise-ship luxuries: big buffets for breakfast (160 kr) and dinner (300 kr), gourmet restaurants (370-kr three-course meals), a kids’ playroom, pool (indoor on the Crown, indoor and outdoor on the Pearl), sauna, nightclubs, pay Wi-Fi, satellite phone, and tax-free shopping. There are no ATMs on board. Cash advances are available at the shipboard exchange desk. All shops and restaurants accept credit cards as well as euros, dollars, and Danish, Swedish, and Norwegian currency.
Reservations: Reservations are smart in summer and on weekends. Advance bookings get the best prices. Book online or call DFDS Seaway’s Danish office (Mon-Fri 9:00-16:30, closed Sat-Sun, tel. 33 42 30 10, www.dfdsseaways.us) or visit the DSB Rejsebureau at the main train station.
Port Details: The Copenhagen Ferry Terminal (a.k.a. DFDS Terminalen) is a short walk north of The Little Mermaid. The terminal is open daily 9:00-17:00 (luggage lockers available).
Getting Downtown: Shuttle bus #20E meets arriving ships from Oslo (daily 9:30-10:15). It goes first to Østerport Station (far from downtown but on the S-tog line—easy connection to the main train station, with some recommended hotels and the start of my “Copenhagen City Walk”), then to Kongens Nytorv (on the Metro line and near Nyhavn and other recommended hotels); from either stop, you can connect to Nørreport Station (with additional recommended hotels).
To reach the ferry terminal from the city center, catch bus #20E at Kongens Nytorv (free for cruise passengers, coordinated with sailing schedule; daily 14:00-16:00, departs every 10-30 minutes, arrives at the terminal 11 minutes later). Or take the S-tog from downtown in the direction of Hellerup or Hillerød to the Nordhavn Station. Exit the station, cross under the tracks, and hike toward the water; you’ll see the ship on your right.
