WITH ONLY ONE NOTABLE CHANGE, THE BASIC UNIFORM WORN BY the soldiers serving in the Federal Army during the Civil War was adopted by the United States Army in 1858.1 During the decade prior to the war, the army had an aggregate strength of no more than 16,000. In times of crisis this was to be augmented by the militia units in each state. The relatively small size of the standing army allowed all uniforms and most equipage to be produced, and supplied, from a single location, the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot, better known as Schuylkill Arsenal. In addition, a single woolen mill, the Utica Steam Woolen Company, in Utica, New York, was able to supply all the necessary uniform material. While this combination assured a strict uniformity in the appearance of the Regular Army, the dress of the various state militia units presented a much different picture.
With the commencement of hostilities, President Lincoln called for the states to provide 75,000 militia for 3 months to suppress the insurrection. Over 91,000 men reported for duty. The War Department assumed that they would be in uniform and ready for service. When it became evident that the war would last well beyond the three months, the War Department realized the uniforms that were suitable for parade and drill would not stand up to duty in the field. Moreover some who reported had in reality nothing that would serve as a uniform at all.
By law the Quartermaster’s Department had been required to furnish only equipage to militia forces.2 States were expected to provide all else except ordnance, which was supplied by the Federal government. Whereas this established an important uniformity in weapons, it did no such thing for uniforms. Within the states themselves, the various militia companies were usually free to design and adopt their own favored style of dress. Consequently, the militia of any given state could, and did, at times present an almost unbelievable variety of uniform styles. Two colors, blue and gray, were the most favored by units on both sides of the Mason–Dixon line.
One example, the state of Ohio, attempted to clothe volunteers in uniforms similar to those of the U.S. Army. Contracts were let for these, but rapidly increasing demand for blue cloth resulted in many of the first regiments leaving for war in trousers of gray and gray striped. Blue blouses were acquired for some, but as a stopgap measure over 5,000 infantry jackets of cadet gray cloth were made and issued to regiments in need of uniform clothing.3 Several other states also contracted for uniforms for their volunteers, most notably New York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and Indiana.4 While the style of the state issue deviated to a degree from the standard Federal uniform, the dark blue coat or jacket became the standard.5 Through all of this, regiments continued to be raised that were granted permission to procure and wear what the Quartermaster’s Department termed “Special Uniforms.” These regiments often had political backing, and the quartermasters continued to both contract for and manufacture uniforms to their specifications for the duration of the war. For example, regiments such as the famed Berdan’s Sharpshooters had the regulation-style uniform made in green rather than the regulation dark blue.
During the period just prior to the Civil War the news from Europe was dominated by the Crimean War. The French Army set the fashion for military dress, which had been reflected in the 1858 uniform design. But the fame gained by the French Zouave regiments in their exotic Middle Eastern-style uniforms most captured the imagination of the American generation that would soon be fighting each other. It was not long before some militia units, both North and South, that could afford the expense traded their uniforms for those of the romantic and picturesque Zouave. Thus things would stand when on July 21 the two armies, largely comprised of volunteers, clashed near Manassas, Virginia.
The Union army had no prior stock of army-regulation uniforms on hand, as the supply for the Regular Army had been handled as needed. From this point on, it became the responsibility of both the states and the Quartermaster’s Department to supply the needed uniforms. On June 12 the Quartermaster Office of Clothing and Equipage in Washington instructed Colonel Charles Thomas at Schuylkill Arsenal to have clothing made for the 75,000 troops called for. These were army standard; however, this did not by any means correct the diversity in the uniforms that had already been supplied to the volunteers. It would take several instances of friendly fire to convince the army that gray was not a suitable color for U.S. troops. On August 8 General McClellan ordered that no more gray be issued because “it is the color of the rebel’s uniform.”As a stopgap the Washington Quartermaster Office ordered that a red, white, and blue armband four inches wide be made up for those still dressed in gray to wear on the left sleeve.6 This seemed like a quick and easy, temporary solution until it was found that the Confederate army had adopted a similar policy.
To meet the emergency clothing need, three new Federal procurement depots were quickly established in the major cities that had clothing manufacture facilities: New York, Cincinnati, and St. Louis.7 The loss of the Southern market had a severe impact on the economy in these and other cities, and they were quickly able to supply a force of skilled workers that allowed the new depots to begin operation.8 To augment the capability of the depots, the Quartermaster’s Department also began large-scale contracting with established clothing manufactures. In the long run this method of uniform production allowed the Federal soldier to remain well clothed. However, it would take months to weed out those who were not above selling defective or substandard uniforms to the army.
PROCUREMENT PROBLEMS WERE NOT LARGELY SOLVED UNTIL THE LATER months of 1862, when some degree of standardization was reached. This, however, in no way allowed the Quartermaster’s Department to relax. Unscrupulous contractors still existed, although a strict system of inspection cut down on the problem. Other headaches also continued to arise.
Supplying a volunteer army many times larger than that which had existed in 1861 was not the same as providing for an army of disciplined regular soldiers. In peacetime, the Quartermaster’s Department was able to anticipate the yearly needs of the army based on a regulated system of issue. Each soldier received a certain number of uniform items annually, which were expected to last him during his enlistment. Uniforms were produced in four sizes, and the number of each size needed was calculated by a well-established tariff of sizes based on years of experience. Each soldier initially was issued a fatigue cap (forage cap), a fatigue blouse, a dress coat or jacket, trousers, a pair of shoes, three shirts, three pair of drawers, four pair of stockings, a rubber blanket, and an overcoat.9 Based on the estimated longevity of each, the solder would be allowed to replace them as needed. In addition he would receive a blanket, a knapsack, a haversack, and a canteen. The knapsack was intended to carry his extra clothing and blanket on the march, the haversack to hold his rations, and of course the canteen his water. The rubber blanket served as a ground cover and, when needed, a wraparound raincoat. Beginning in 1862 each soldier also received half of a small tent with a row of buttons on one edge and buttonholes on the opposing edge, a practice copied from the French. Two soldiers could button their halves together to form what the French termed a tente d’abri, better known to the U.S. soldier as a pup tent. The department also issued appropriate brass insignia intended to be worn on the headgear to identify the soldier’s branch of service, company, and regiment. It would not be long before the realities of war would show that what served well in the “quiet” era before 1861 would need to change.
Aside from the special uniforms that would continue to be issued and worn by some regiments for the entire war, the majority of regiments were well supplied with the army regulation uniform. By far the most common item of apparel was the fatigue blouse. Often referred to simply as the “four-button blouse,” this practical, comfortable garment was worn by both mounted and foot soldiers. The dress coat was a nine-button frock similar to the common gentleman’s business attire of the period. While not nearly as comfortable and much more restrictive, it presented a soldierly appearance that was the epitome of military style. The issue trousers were sky-blue wool and intended to be worn with either coat or blouse. The cap was a direct copy from the French Army. Some were also issued the dress hat, which was an adaptation of the period civilian top hat; it reminded the soldiers of pictures they had seen of the hats worn by the pilgrims and was not generally liked. Mounted troops received a jacket trimmed in the color of the branch of service. Universally supplied to all was a shirt made of white cotton and wool domet flannel. By midwar the department also issued gray shirts.
Unlike earlier wars, thanks to the rapid advances in photography in the 1850s, today we have an abundance of photographs taken during the war that give a good idea of what the average Union soldier looked like. The vast majority of individual images of Civil War soldiers were taken either in a photographer’s studio or in a makeshift setting in camp. Consequently, they show the soldier as he wanted his family and friends to see him. Early-war photographs often show the soldier carrying a pistol or bowie knife that served to enhance his military image. However, except for men authorized a sidearm, some of these are likely props owned by the photographer.
H. Q. 111th Regt. N.Y.S. Vol. General Order No. 20
Bolivar Heights September 8, 1862
1. All enlisted men, noncommissioned officers and privates having pistols, revolvers and bowie knives, will hand over the same to their Company commanders. Any noncommissioned officer or private failing to obey will be searched and taken from and reported to Head Quarters. Company commanders will be held responsible for the fulfillment of the order.
2. NCO’s or privates who are on detached service and need revolvers for their protection will be allowed them after reporting themselves to H. Q. and obtaining permission of the Commanding Officer.
Col. Jessie Legoine. Cmd. 111th N.Y.10
The image of the soldier in the field, however, presented a picture quite different from those imagined on the home front. The newspaper Cincinnati Commercial reported June 5, 1861: “Uniform of the Ohio Troops in the East, They were in fine spirits, but had been villainously imposed upon in the matter of their uniform, the material of which was so flimsy that the troops are already so ragged that they are also ashamed to be seen in Washington.”
On February 23, 1862, the commander of the 102nd Ohio Infantry reported the following in relation to the regiment’s uniform:
The pants and shoes in use [by the regiment] are of a very defective quality. The pants of dark blue satinet are of a very defective quality being of rotten material, many of the men having entirely worn out their third pair in six months. The shoes issued will wear on average two weeks, if repaired at the end of the first week they can be made to last longer.
The tents in use are unfit for service and were condemned some time since, but have not been replaced. Many of the knapsacks are made of rotten material and the straps are libel to pull off if the men move double quick with them on.
By fall of the same year, the regimental historian of the 27th Indiana described the unit’s state in the Antietam campaign in terms that the men who were there remembered well. “The men who did most of the fighting at Antietam [were] long-haired, filthy, and lousy. . . . Our plight was never so sorry at any other times. There never was so much to dishearten and demoralize at any other stage of our service. It had been so long since fresh supplies of clothing and shoes had been available . . . many of the Regiment were entirely shoeless. . . . Pants were out at the seat and knees and frayed off at the bottoms. . . . Numbers had no coats and the coats of others had holes in the elbows [and] were ripped at the seams.”
These are just a few examples of the reality that many faced in the army in the very near future. None of this was lost on the field commanders, who looked to the coming year of combat. As the volunteers evolved into seasoned fighting men, the winter of 1862–63 became a period of reflection and change, with constant drill and continual efforts to make a professional army.
General Order No. 2 H. Q. 4th Vermont
April 21, 1862
Hereafter Company Commanders, will see that their men appear at Regimental Dress Parade with white gloves.
By Order Lt. Col. Foster11
Company Order Books102nd Pa. Infantry
Special Order No. 17 H.Q. 102nd Pa. Vol.
August 25, 1863
Company Commanders will hereafter see that the daily detail for guard from their respective commands present a neat and clean appearance at guard mounting, the cartridge box, belt & etc. must be worn outside the blouse, caps must be worn instead of hats, shoes must be blacked etc. Sgts. reporting the details will be equipped and remain until after inspection.
Col. John W. Patterson
The 1863 campaign that would include the battle of Gettysburg serves as a comprehensive example of the changes that dictated the reality that was the Civil War soldier. This campaign shows the circumstances and orders that established what would be worn and carried once the army left camp and began to move to meet the enemy.
THE ARMY CAP ISSUED TO THE FEDERAL SOLDIER HAS BEEN, UNTIL THIS DAY, ONE of the most recognizable parts of his uniform. Despite this, many soldiers preferred hats, and orders were often given that demanded soldiers wear caps and forbade wearing hats. The cap or hat was the most prominent place for not only the corps badge but also the brass numerals and letters designating the regiment to which the soldier was assigned.
H.Q. 1st Brigade, 2nd Division 12th Corps
April 25, 1863
Circular(part)
The following orders will hereafter be strictly observed by Regimental and Company Commanders of this Brigade. At all semi-monthly inspections, reviews and parades:
Hats will not be worn by the men when caps can be procured. Sutlers must be required to keep on hand letters and figures that each man may have the letter of his Company and number of his regiment on the top of the cap. The white star must also be worn on the cap.
By Command of
Col. Chas. Candy Cmd. Brigade12
3rd Brigade, 3rd Division, 6th Corps
93rd Pa. Infantry Regimental Letter and order book.
August 23, 1863
. . . regimental Commanders will see that every man is supplied with a cap. Those with faded, greasy ones should be re-supplied. At all inspections and parades no man must appear wearing a hat . . .
Brig. General Wheaton 3rd
For the remainder of the war, orders appeared on a regular basis regarding how important it was to wear the corps badge, as well as where the associated insignia should be placed.
AS LATE AS MARCH 23, 1865, THE 6TH CORPS SENT THE FOLLOWING CIRCULAR out to the 1st Brigade, 2nd Division, 6th Corps:
Regimental Commanders will see that the bugle, Badges, etc. are worn by the enlisted men of their commands in the following way:
The number of the Regiment at the back of the top, the Division Badge in the center and the bugle at the front of the top of the cap.
Company letters are not required to be worn. Uniformity must be observed throughout the entire command.
Col. J.W. Warner
Cmd. Brigade13
On April 23, 1863, the 3rd Brigade, 3rd Division received:
257–Infantry Dress coats
205–dark shirts
44–NYS jackets
Also brass numbers and letters
14–Infantry guidons
173–blue lined Blouses
437–Forage caps
2392 Brass bugles14
The American soldier has traditionally been an individual first. This was particularly true of the volunteer who left the farms and small towns to fight in what was at first thought of as a great adventure. As these orders show, the individuality of the Federal soldier was limited. To an extent, the corps badge satisfied the need for individuality. However, those who did not, for whatever reason, receive a special uniform often took it upon themselves to modify the one they were issued. This practice was contrary to army regulations and often met with stern orders reversing the unauthorized enhancement. Tolerance for non-issue clothing was low. Beyond the apparent lack of uniformity, a soldier wearing parts of civilian clothing, if so inclined, could easily remove his military garments and melt into the civilian population.
H.Q. 1st Army Corps
General Orders No. 40 April 6, 1863
The practice of soldiers within the command wearing citizen’s clothes will at once be discontinued. Provost Marshalls are directed to examine all persons found in citizen cloths and if they are without proper passes to arrest and turn them over to the Provost Marshall General.
By Command;
General John F. Reynolds15
General Orders No. 18
H.Q. Zook’s Brigade May 27, 1863
It has been noticed that a number of enlisted men of this command are in the habit of wearing portions of officers dress, such as hats, hat cords, embroidered bugles, numbers, etc. etc. Such is a violation of Army Regulations and will not be permitted in the future. Regimental Commanders will see that this order is carried out at once.
By order Brig. Gen. Zook16
Inspection Report 3rd Corps August 25, 1863
(Extracts)
11th New Jersey Infantry
The Regiment did well in the last battle [Gettysburg] as its thinned ranks will show. I find as a general thing that the men did not wear the prescribed uniform cap, orders have been given to have this rectified.
Regimental Order book
H.Q. 125th N.Y. Inf.
Centreville, Va. June 8, 1863
Regimental Orders No. 80
1. Paragraph 114 Revised Army Regulations reads as follows “Officers at their station Camp or in Garrison will always wear their proper uniform.”
Paragraph 11 reads “Soldiers will wear the prescribed uniform in camp or Garrison and will not be permitted to keep in their possession any other clothing.”
2. The above paragraphs will receive the careful attention of the officers and soldiers of the Regiment and the directions therein will be strictly carried out.
By Order
Col. George L. Willard17
A few regiments took it upon themselves to modify the standard issue uniforms to call attention to their service. In the Western Theater, the men of the famed “Lightning Brigade” commanded by Colonel John Thomas Wilder are an excellent example. This brigade was composed of three regiments of Indiana infantry and a battery of artillery. In early 1863 the brigade was armed with lever-action Henry rifles and mounted to serve as mounted infantry. The men took great pride in their weapons and the unique service they performed. When issued new uniforms trimmed in yellow, they quickly removed the trim, not wishing to be seen as cavalry. “We were a new branch of service; simply mounted infantry.”18
The regimental history of the 88th Pennsylvania Infantry described the following attempt to stand out.
In 1862 while on guard duty along the railroad the members of B Company spent much of their spare time in fishing and gunning. Gray squirrels were the favorite game, their bushes being fastened to the caps, in imitation of Colonel Kane’s famous “Bucktail” regiment. The company officers felt proud of this unique appearance of the men adorned with this novel headdress and determined to give the colonel a pleasant surprise by appearing on dress parade with the new plumage. Accordingly, at the first dress parade after returning to camp, every man in the company who appeared in line was topped off with a squirrel tail, and the left of the regiment appeared in striking contrast with the other companies on the right. The usual formalities of dress parade were performed, but those who were stationed near the colonel noticed that his glances in the direction of Company B were neither gentle nor kind, and at the proper time he summoned the commander of the company before him and said, “Captain, you will have those things removed from the caps of your men at once, and hereafter appear in the regulation uniform only.” The tails went instantly.19
WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE FEDERAL SOLDIER ON CAMPAIGN, YOU CAN EASILY FORget the knapsack and its contents. Yet as much as any other aspect of the soldier’s life, the knapsack and its contents could dictate the ability of a fighting man to move and be physically able and ready to fight when called upon. The early campaigns had found that often the inexperienced volunteer would discard his knapsack on the march to lessen his burden. To compound this problem, officers, under the excitement of the moment, would often order knapsacks to be removed as their command moved into battle. Army command realized how important the knapsack was and made a significant change as the Federal Army was preparing for the summer campaign of 1863.
Over the winter, as the result of an extensive study, a decision had been made to require soldiers to carry rations, particularly the crackers we know as “hardtack,” in the knapsack rather than the haversack. This plan would allow for extra rations to be issued and also cut back on the number of wagons necessary to carry the large boxes in which the hardtack was received.
The amount of clothing soldiers carried on campaign had been a subject of concern since the beginning of the war, and from this point on the limits were strictly enforced. In addition, the practice of removing the knapsack and leaving a guard from the regiment to watch over them had proven time and again to be folly. Hereafter knapsacks and haversacks were worn into battle. This protocol was not always followed, but sufficient evidence shows that it became an accepted practice. The following extensive study explains this reasoning.
In pursuance of Special Orders No. 65 from Head Quarters, Army of the Potomac, the Board therein detailed assembled and proceeded to make the experiments required and arrived at the conclusions herein after stated.
In order to ascertain the amount of weight usually carried by soldiers in this army average knapsacks were weighed with contents therein and blankets rolled on top and the weight was found to be 15 and a half pounds.
We then took out the contents of the knapsacks and packed inside ten days’ rations of hard bread to wit; 100 biscuits and 10 days sugar & coffee and it then weighed with blanket 17 lbs, without blanket 11¾ lbs.
With a change of clothing, to wit: shirts, drawers, socks; 18¼ lbs.
Three days of biscuit, bacon and small stores were put in the haversack and it weighed 5¼ lbs. The average weight of blanket 5¼ lbs., overcoat 5¼ lbs., ½ shelter tent 1¾ lbs., change of clothing 2 lbs.
It was found that a knapsack could easily contain 100 crackers and that it was better to place at least as much as one shirt in the part of the knapsack next to the soldier’s back in order that the crackers might not chafe the skin and that so long as a knapsack is carried neither the weight of the extra clothing or the space occupied by it was sufficient to justify dispensing with the same[;] in fact it can be carried better than not.
It is also to be observed that ten biscuits although called a ration are not sufficient upon the march when no other articles such as beans, rice and desiccated vegetables are issued.
The Board further placed five days’ rations of bacon in a haversack with ten days’ rations of coffee and sugar and that amount was tried upon a soldier and worn without difficulty.
But it should be here stated that the haversack is found when loaded to its capacity to fatigue the men in moderate or cold weather more than a knapsack with 15 pounds inside.
The Board after numerous experiments and from their previous experience with troops in the field agreed upon the following conclusion:
As a maximum, the men by dispensing with extra clothing except one extra shirt, drawers and socks can carry in their knapsacks 100 biscuits and eight days’ small stores and in the haversack two days’ cooked rations, which with eight days’ fresh beef upon the hoof will make ten days’ full rations. Two days only are put in the haversack for the reason that the weight is more easily carried on the back.
The Board also thought that if two pack mules with pack saddles were furnished to each regiment, a sufficient number of camp kettles might be carried and ration of rice, beans and desiccated vegetables sufficient to cook the fresh beef properly and furnish the necessary quantity of soup upon all occasions, and make the 100 biscuit last ten days instead of eight as before stated.
The question creating the most embarrassment in the minds of the Board was how to provide for line officers, who have no knapsacks. But it is considered that all difficulties can be obriated [obviated] upon ordinary marches if each line officer is required to employ the servant for which he is paid. The officer himself can carry his blanket and two days’ rations and the servant the balance. It being understood that his necessary baggage and mess chest should be carried in reserve column of transportation. The foregoing is stated to show what can be carried under the most favorable circumstances but considering the climate, state of the roads and the fact that three days has heretofore been the maximum amount the Board Recommends as follows:
1st That all extra clothing, except a change of under clothing be stored.
2nd That five days’ rations of bread and small stores be placed in the knapsacks.
3rd Three days’ cooked rations in the haversack and five days’ fresh beef upon the hoof.
4th Two mules per regiment to carry camp kettles, rice, beans etc.
Each soldier will carry
Haversack 5¾ lbs. Knapsack 6 lbs. Blanket 5¼ lbs Clothing 2 lbs. Total 19 lbs. Making 13¼ lbs. in the knapsack being 2¼ lbs. less than the weight usually carried by soldiers in this Army in their knapsacks.20
93rd Pennsylvania Infantry
Regimental Order, Letter Book April 13, 1863
Every man will carry the following articles of clothing in their Knapsack and only these, one pr. socks, one pr. drawers and one shirt. All other clothing now in the possession of the men will be packed up and marked, each company in a separate bale or bundle marking them for the Regiment. These will be turned over to the Brigade QM who will see that they are properly stored. It was suggested that empty grain sacks be used to pack the items to be stored.
The clothing carried will be arranged in the knapsack as to prevent the bread from chaffing the backs of the men.21
Simply put, these orders would limit the soldier to the uniform he had on his back, with a change of underwear. This helped with the heat of the summer and the probability of an untold number of miles of marching ahead of them.
The 5th Corps Inspector General’s report of August 10, 1863, showed that in the 1st Division, “a large estimate of clothing, etc. for the 2nd Brigade remains unfilled. A large number of knapsacks were abandoned or lost in recent marches by the men of this Brigade. Regimental commanders do not deem it important to replace them until fall.”22
UNIFORMITY WAS NOT NECESSARILY SOUGHT WITHIN INDIVIDUAL REGIments. The uniform soldiers wore was usually left up to the regiment, and at times to the company and in some cases to the men. It is clear, however, that men were not allowed to wear or carry nonregulation items such as civilian shirts and hats. Existing photographic evidence shows that in some units the noncommissioned officers elected to wear the frock coat. Despite the discomfort, this set them apart from the privates. In other regiments all men elected to wear the frock coat, as shown in the well-known photographs of the Union dead at Gettysburg. The soldiers were hesitant to store the better clothing as well as any personal items, for good reason. In most cases they decided what to carry based on weight; that is, things like the blanket and overcoat that would make more of a burden than their value would likely go. In this case soldiers found that the rubber blanket gave sufficient warmth when used as a sleeping bag.
April 20, 1863
Col. Schriver
Inspector General Army of the Potomac
The Division Inspector of the 1st Division calls attention to the fact that the enlisted men who were compelled by circular 13 April 1863 H.Q. A of P to store their clothing with the QM complain that no receipts are given by the QMD for this same experience having taught them that they seldom, or never, again see the articles thus stored.
P. A. McCloon
AAIG 11th Corps23
Unslinging and stacking knapsacks before going into battle had become a serious problem. An inventory of losses of the 1st Brigade, 2nd Division, 12th Corps showed that within this command alone the following had been lost during the battle at Chancellorsville in May 1863: 1,192 knapsacks, 708 haversacks, 503 canteens, and 828 shelter tents.24 This of course does not include the contents, which would mean the extensive loss of uniforms, including blouses, shirts, drawers, socks, and blankets, to say nothing of the rations now being carried in both the knapsacks and haversacks.
On May 18, 1863, the 1st Brigade made the following statement to explain the needed reissue of rations:
During the Battle of Chancellorsville, May 1st, 2nd, & 3rd, the men were ordered to pile up their knapsacks and haversacks in the rear of the entrenchments, on the 1st of May when the Brigade was ordered to the front, and when again drawn within the entrenchments were unable to take them up again on account of the advance of the enemy, and on the 3rd of May were compelled to abandon them altogether on account of the enemy advancing in vastly superior numbers, we were driven from the field not having time to take them up again were compelled to abandon them and all that was in them.25
The 1st Division, 3rd Corps, report on the losses at Chancellorsville emphasized that the loss of knapsacks was widespread within the army. On May 29, 1863, it was reported: “A large portion of the knapsacks were lost by being unslung and left upon the field at the time of engagement with the enemy. In many cases this was done by orders, particularly in the Second Brigade. These articles were lost and abandoned at the battle of the ‘Cedars’ and ‘Chancellorsville,’ Va. on the 2nd and 3rd of May.” The total loss of knapsacks in this one brigade was 2,524.26
The famous Excelsior Brigade was in the 3rd Division of this corps and among those who failed to retrieve knapsacks and haversacks dropped before going into battle at Chancellorsville. Following the battle of Gettysburg, the 3rd Corps inspector had the following to say about the brigade.
The soldierly appearance and neatness of the command will be greatly increased when the men are provided with forage caps. Likewise blouses in place of the well-worn jacket of many which illy contrasts with the new clothing already issued. . . . The knapsacks ordered to be supplied in accordance with circular from Hd. Qtrs. Army of the Potomac will be issued during the early part of the present week. The old knapsacks of this Brigade were abandoned at Chancellorsville, Va. May 3rd, 1863 [by order of] Brigadier General J. W. Reserve, since which time they have not been replaced, without them it is impossible to keep the men in a full supply of underclothing which is so essential to neatness and consequently perfect health.27
By the time the army went into battle at Gettysburg, the word had been circulated that the men were to wear the knapsack into battle. This command was not followed by all, but enough evidence exists to show that many units adhered to and obeyed the order. Several regiments in the 1st Corps were among those who did. The 13th Massachusetts Infantry was in the heavy fighting on July 1, and Sergeant Austin C. Stearns remembered seeing a man of Company I “wounded in both wrists who could not get his knapsack off, and, as he was bleeding considerable, he was afraid he would not hold out to get to the rear and carry it. I helped him off with it.”28
Other units of the 1st Corps chose otherwise, including Colonel Roy Stone, commanding the 2nd Brigade, 3rd Division, 1st Corps. Going into action on July 1, a soldier of the 150th Pennsylvania called out to him: “General, shall we unsling knapsacks?” The general replied by ordering them to divest themselves of everything but their guns, accoutrements, haversacks, and canteens, saying, “Never mind the knapsacks, boy, it’s the State now! Now forward.”29
On August 17, the commander of the 121st Pennsylvania, which was also of the 3rd Division, 1st Corps, stated in a report to the assistant adjutant general, in commenting on the condition of the regiment, “There is now present with my regiment a single line officer who was at the battle of Gettysburg and but 3 first sergeants. Twice we have lost knapsacks etc. on the battle-field and twice marched leaving everything behind us.”
WITH THE LIMITATIONS PUT UPON THE SOLDIER BY THE DECISION TO pack rations in the knapsack, the soldier, with the exception of a single change of underwear, was restricted to the clothing he had on his back. The physical condition of the Federal Army following the march to Gettysburg and the ensuing battle was at a low point. Trousers would “rub out” from constant friction of the cartridge box and legs moving together, and shoes just plain wore out. Some supplies were run up from Washington to the railheads at Sandy Hook and Berlin, Maryland, but many men were forced to wait until they went into camp after reaching Virginia. Even officers were not exempt. A diary of a 3rd Corps officer gives an excellent idea of the state of the Federal Army following the battle of Gettysburg and the campaign in pursuit of the Confederate Army.
July 26, 1863
“Encamped about 4 miles west of Warrenton, marching a distance of about 13 miles in 5 hours. Some of the men are barefoot. Some in shoes without stockings. Some without shirts and some without pants and blouses. Such is the condition of our Army at present in and about Warrenton after a campaign of 46 days fighting three days at Gettysburg and a skirmish at Manassas Gap on the 24th of July.”
3rd Brigade, 2nd Division, 3rd Corps
July 27, 1863
“In regard to the condition of the troops in this Command, I would state that they are very much in need of the clothes exc. for which requisitions have been made. The almost constant marching since June 11th has not only been hard on clothes, but severe on the men. Nearly all are galled or chaffed by their shoes or equipments, a few days rest would be gratefully received.”
3rd Brigade, 2nd Division, 3rd Corps
August 25, 1863
“You will also notice no deficiencies are reported in overcoats or blankets. The men do not want to carry them while in active service, nor do [they] often need them. Previous to leaving camp near Falmouth, Va. a great many of the articles were sent away and stored until such a time as the men would need them.”
2nd Division, 3rd Corps
August 30, 1863
“The present chilly nights and mornings are likely to continue[;] the health of the troops requires that the blankets and overcoats left at Falmouth to be stored should be returned to them, as many have only a ‘gum blanket’ which is but a poor covering for Autumn nights.”30
As the Army of the Potomac made preparations to go into winter quarters, orders were issued to send regimental representatives to Washington to retrieve the items that had been sent back in the spring. One can only imagine the feeling of opening these bundles and sorting out the property of those who did not return from the summer campaign.
Circular 1st Division, 3rd Corps
September 5, 1863
Permission having been obtained to send an officer to Washington to bring up whatever clothing, etc. belonging to the Division may be stored there. It is hereby ordered that Brigade Commanders send in to these H.Q. by 9 a.m. of 7th inst. complete inventories of the clothing etc. that the regiments in their commands desire forwarded here from Washington. These lists will be by Regiment and not consolidated.
By order; General Birney
One change that might have made a difference in 1863 has been overlooked. Prior to the disaster that was the battle of Fredericksburg, Colonel Adrian R. Root issued this order to his command, 1st Brigade, 2nd Division, 1st Corps.
Camp near Brooks Station, Va.
General Orders No. 10 December 5, 1862
No officer of the 1st Brigade, with the exception of the Commanding officer and his staff will be permitted to enter battle mounted.
No officer of the 1st Brigade will be permitted to enter battle with a uniform coat or shoulder straps, or with any distinctive badge or rank upon his person, that can attract the attention of the enemy.
Officers can be provided with blouses on application to Captain Crandall Brigade QM.
By Command of Col. Adrian R. Root
Cmd. 1st Brigade31
Despite the obvious intention and common sense of Colonel Root’s order, the romantic idea of war that prevailed in 1861 was still the ruling order. Despite the two major battles that followed this order, as the army prepared for the campaign that would take them to Gettysburg, the following general order was received from Brigadier General John C. Robinson, commanding the 2nd Division:
General Orders No. 45 H.Q. 2nd Division, 1st Corps
May 25, 1863
It having come to the knowledge of the Brigadier General Commanding that orders have been issued to a portion of the command requiring officers not to wear any distinctive badge and for mounted officers to dismount in battle. All such orders are hereby counter-manded. All officers of this Division are required to wear the prescribed uniform, and as far as possible all General, Field and Staff officers will remain mounted in time of action.
By Command of Brigadier General John C. Robinson
It is worth noting that Colonel Root was no longer in command of this brigade and that at Gettysburg every regimental commander, including the new brigade commander, Brigadier General Gabriel R. Paul, was either wounded or captured.
Books 119th Pennsylvania
Special Orders No. 13 Warrenton, Va. Aug. 7, 1863
All officers of this Division are required to provide themselves with and wear on all occasions, when outside the limits of their camps the insignia of their rank as prescribed under the heading of shoulder straps in paragraph 1537 and following Army Regulations.
Commanding officers and officers of the Inspector General’s Department will see that this order and that requiring the Badge of the Division to be worn by officers and men are strictly complied with.
Brig. General Wright
Special Orders No. 29 H. Q. 12th Regt. P.V.C.
April 23, 1863
Commanders of Companies will be held strictly responsible to see that all the non-comm. officers in their several commands by next Sunday, the farthest, the chevrons on their dress coats to whatever their rank may entitle them, they can either buy them ready made or make the proper requisitions for the material.
Officers were not the only ones who neglected or chose not to wear their insignia of rank. Noncommissioned officers, sergeants, and corporals were often cited for failure to have the proper chevrons sewn on. The reasons for this could be several. The expense or trouble of having a regimental tailor sew them on is the most likely; however, the observation made by Colonel Root could have been on the minds of many who simply were willing to perform the necessary duties of their rank but at the same time did not want to stand out when the shooting started.
As the Army of the Potomac prepared for the campaign of 1864, new problems caused new orders to be issued. This army contained many men who, because of the draft and recruiting efforts, had not seen service in the field prior to this year. Some things relating to what could be worn and carried needed to be repeated.
Despite the growing pride in the now well-established corps badge, badges were still not being worn or secured properly.
Although no further orders were received, the plan set in motion by Colonel Adrian Root seemed to have found some who realized its intent. Many officers began to remove the regulation insignia of rank, the shoulder strap, from their combat uniforms and place the far less obvious rank-indicating device on their uniform collar or simply stitch it by itself on the shoulder of the uniform coat.
145th Penn. Regt. Letter & Order Book
1st Division, 2nd Corps Sept. 3, 1864
General Orders no. 215
It has been observed that in many instances the clothing of the men is neglected, and they are allowed to wear hats and other clothing different from the prescribed blouse, trousers and cap. . . . Every man will . . . be supplied with the badge of the Division, number of regiment, and letter of company . . . and he will be required to wear them. Anyone taking off either letter, number or badge will be punished by his Regimental commander.
Many officers have accustomed themselves to wearing the marks of their rank upon their coat collars. This is prohibited, and in the future every officer will be required to wear the regulation shoulder straps.
By order; Brig. Gen. Miles
Order Book Company A, 53rd Pennsylvania Infantry
General Orders no. 4 H.Q. 53rd Regt. P.V.V. (part)
near Petersburg, Sept. 4, 1864
It has been observed that non-commissioned officers do not at all time wear their insignia of rank. This will not be permitted in the future. All Sgts. and Corporals must procure the proper chevrons for the blouse sleeves and have them properly put on. These can be procured by requisition to the acting Q.M. of the Regiment or from the sutler of the Regiment.
The trefoils must be worn upon the cap by all officers and men. This must be properly sewed upon the top of the cap, and not pinned on, as has been the custom by a great many. The cap letter and numbers must also be worn upon the top of the cap[,] the numbers on the lower edge of the trefoils and the letter on the upper edge. Any deficiencies existing in these things will immediately be required for to the action Q.M.
Every enlisted man in the Regiment must be provided with a cap. Orders relative to the paragraph have been published from time to time but has not been observed. In the future any man appearing on duty with hats on will be sent to their Companies and others detailed instead and both the officers in command of the companies and the men themselves held accountable—the officers placed in arrest and the men punished accordingly.
Capt. P.H. Schrezer Cmd. Regt.
Regimental Order book
99th Pennsylvania Inf.
Orders No. 15 H.Q. 99th Pa.
Near Petersburg, Va.
Sept. 21, 1864
In pursuance of Special Orders No. 252 HQ Army of the Potomac Sept. 17, 1864, The attention of Co. Commanders is called to the practice prevailing amongst the enlisted men of wearing long boots instead of shoes. Co. Commanders are required to see that their men wear the shoes furnished by the QMD.
Col. T. W. Egan
40th NY V.V. Vol.
1st Brigade Birney’s Division
Regimental books 39th N. Y. Inf.
H. Q. 1st Division 2nd Army Corps
January 4, 1865
The General commanding is again obliged to call the attention of Brigade Commanders to irregularities quite prevalent throughout the command . . . officers will wear the uniform prescribed with the . . . insignia of rank . . . upon the shoulder . . . noncommissioned officers will wear proper chevrons . . . also have the stripe on the pantaloons.
Every soldier must have a cartridge box belt and plate thereon. It will be properly adjusted and always worn with his equipment. The cartridge box will not be supported by the waist belt. He must also have and wear a cap with bugle and the number of his regiment securely fastened and with the red trefoil well sewed on. The felt hats so numerous in the Division will be destroyed. No soldier will be permitted to put on his equipments without first buttoning his coat. This is often done. Bvt. Maj. General Miles33
Civilian clothing continued to be a problem and to be frowned upon, as seen by the following order.
Circular no. 12 H.Q. 7th Wisconsin Vet. Vols.
Nov. 30, 1864
Company Commanders will at once take steps wither to send away, or destroy citizens clothing now in the possession of the enlisted men of their respective commands.
Major A. Richardson
Despite the need for constant resupply of standard uniforms and equipment, the Quartermaster’s Department continued to have manufactured and supply nonregulation uniforms. Beyond those worn by the numerous Zouave regiments that were still in the field, one item of issue was rapidly gaining favor. This was the waist-length jacket patterned after the uniform issued by the state of New York to many volunteers.
2nd Corps April 15, 1864
Colonel: You are respectfully informed that your letter of March 29th last, addressed to Col. Geo. H. Crossman requesting the manufacture of 1000 uniform jackets of the N.Y. State pattern for issue to your regiment, having been referred to this office, a copy of the same has this day been referred to Lieut. Col. P. H. Vinton Depy. QM Genl. New York, with instructions to comply with your request.
You will be notified upon their completion.
By Order, Q M General
Hospital, 2nd Division, 11th Corps34
H. Q. 40th Regiment NYSV
1st Brigade Birney’s Division 2nd Corps
March 29, 1864
Col. Geo. H. Crosman
AQM General
I respectfully request that, if it be proper to do so there may be issued to my regiment one thousand (1000) uniform jackets of the New York State pattern but with the U.S. infantry button.
Having always worn the jacket my men have acquired a liking for it, and a pride in it, as a part of a well-known uniform. These feelings, it appears to me are not inconsistent with duty, and I have always found that consideration for predilections on the part of my command has led to benefit.
T. W. Egan, Col.
FOR THE MOST PART, ITEMS ISSUED TO THE FEDERAL SOLDIER ARE WELL documented in regimental returns. These items were accounted for and charges made against the individual soldier’s issue allowance. In addition, regimental officers could be made to pay for shortages in government property. Often forgotten or overlooked then are the articles of personal property, which made each soldier’s life in camp more comfortable. Unfortunately, unless he made a special reference to a particular item in a letter or his postwar memories, the only historical record of the objects associated with his military life are inventories kept upon his death.
Soldiers going into battle often elected not to carry items with special personal meaning such as letters from home. While the practice of dropping and losing knapsacks was being limited after 1863, the chance of one’s personal possessions falling into the hands of an unknown enemy was a strong incentive to send them to storage or back home.
According to army regulations set forth by the 95th Article of War, the personal effects of a soldier who died while on active duty must be strictly accounted for. These items were then sent to his next of kin or sold within the regiment when there was no known relative. It is a touch ironic that in death a Civil War soldier can give us a glimpse of his life. Several soldiers who died in the hospital of the 2nd Division, 11th Corps near Stafford Court House, Virginia, in March 1863 left the following effects to be accounted for:
Daniel E. Wood, Co. D, 136th New York Vol.
1–overcoat, 1–dress coat, 1–pair trowsers, 1–knife, 1 spoon, 1–haversack.
R. C. Burke, Co. A, 136th New York Vol.
1–knapsack, 2–pair mittens, 1–package envelopes, 1–testament, 1–pocket comb, 2–packages of paper, 3–pair of socks, 1–ink stand, 1–boots, 1–pair trowsers, 1–haversack, 1–tobacco box, 1–spoon & knife, 1–needle book, 1 pocket book, 1 note box, 1–pipe, 1–dipper, 1–canteen, 1–vest, 1–coat, 2–pairs drawers, & shirts, 1 cap.
D. Marton, Co G, 154th New York Vol.
2–shirts, 1–blouse, 1–knapsack, 1–vest, 1–pair shoes, 1–cap, 1–dress coat, 1–haversack containing 1 cup, 1 knife, 1 fork, 1 spoon.
Sergeant C. S. Guild, Co. C, 154th New York Vol.
1–knapsack, 1–dress coat, 1–Casey’s tactics, 1–haversack, 1–cotton shirt, 1–pair black gloves, 2–cotton handkerchiefs, 2–pair socks, 2–towels, 1–razor, 1–cake soap, 1–box blacking, 1–pocket glass, 1–silk necktie, 1–haversack, 1–canteen, 1–knife, 1–fork, spoon, plate & cup.
August Schiffrer, Co. B, 27th Pennsylvania Vol.
1–knapsack, 2–shirts, 1–pair drawers, 1–pair socks, 1–handkerchief, 1–pair trowsers, 1–shoes, 1–pair mittens, 2–brushes, 1–haversack, 1–cup, 1–knife, 1–fork, 5–knapsack straps, 1–leather tobacco sack.
A. M. Colgrove, Co. H, 33rd Massachusetts
1–bible, 1–memorandum, 1–pocket handkerchief, 1–small brush, 1–dress coat, 1–knapsack marked A. M. Colgrove, 1–cup, 1–plate, 1–canteen (no cover).
Charles A. Bailey, Co. F, 33rd Massachusetts
1–knapsack, 2–needlebooks, 1–pair socks, 1–kerchief, 1–woolen belt, 1–mittens, 1–flute, 1–bottle pepper, 1–dirk knife.
Record Group 94 Hospital Register; 1st Division, 5th Corps
March–April, 1863
Person effects:
Sergeant B. P. Lovewell, Co. G, 22nd Mass. Inf.
1 knapsack, 2 shirts, 1 haversack, 2 pr. drawers, 2 pr. mittens, 2 pr. socks, 1 towel, 1 blouse, 1 rubber blanket, 1 spoon.
Thomas Shields, Co. L, 62nd Penn. Inf.
1 knapsack, 1 blouse, 1 cap, 3 shirts, 2 pr. drawers, 1 handkerchief, 2 pr. socks, 1 pr. shoes.
Peter Snider, Co. H, 25th N. Y. S. Vols.
1 knapsack, 1 haversack, 1 pr. pants, 1 pr. drawers, 2 towels, 1 dress coat, 2 shirts, 2 pr. socks, 1 handkerchief, 1 pr. leggings.
John Smith, Co. E, 16th Michigan Inf.
1 haversack, 1 testament, 1 knife, some paper, 8 envelopes, 1 blouse, 1 dress coat.
Joshua Ingles, Co. I, 20th Maine Inf.
1 knapsack, 1 pr. socks, 1 dress coat, 1 haversack, 1 cup, 1 plate, ½ pint bottle.
There was a marked difference in the articles listed for men who were sent from camp to the hospital and those who were wounded in battle. Soldiers taken from the field after being wounded had a full uniform; however, it was usually not fit to save.
James Bower, Co. I, 142nd Pennsylvania died on July 20, 1863, from a gunshot received at Gettysburg. Effects:
1–cap, 1–pr. shoes, 1–pocket knife, 1–medal, 5–red postage stamps and .10 cents.
By 1865 the chaos and confusion had been tempered by four years of war and problems that may have seemed impossible in 1861 had been largely overcome. The Quartermaster’s Department continued to have made and issued the unique Zouave and special uniforms still worn by some.
In the future, influenced by the same changes in tactics and weapons that heralded modern conflict, combat uniforms would eventually give way to more practical uniforms of khaki and drab colors associated with the twentieth-century battlefield.
THE AMERICAN CIVIL WAR HAS BEEN CALLED THE “FIRST MODERN WAR” largely because of the innovations in arms and battlefield communications. To an extent this is true; however, it could well also be termed the last romantic war. Flags flying and mounted officers, along with the variety of uniforms and individually inspired costumes, would never be seen again in an American fighting army. The blue uniform of the Federal soldier remains a distinctive and enduring part of our national culture. Combined with the various special uniforms, it continued to give the Yankee soldier a special place in the history of U.S. fighting men.
An often overlooked aspect of the procurement of uniforms is that it was used as a form of welfare, giving employment to the female relatives of soldiers serving in the Federal Army. Prior to the war, Schuylkill Arsenal had regularly employed seamstresses to hand-sew army uniforms. These women were trained and maintained on an employment list that took into account the skill and ability of each to work on a timely basis.
Each of the three depots operated in a different manner. In Philadelphia the women were forbidden to use sewing machines since they were paid by the garment; it was deemed unfair for one who could afford a machine to speed her work to compete against others who did not have this ability. In St. Louis the women worked in teams of five with one machine operator and four basters. New York and Cincinnati relied heavily on contractors who both hired and paid the sewing women, who were allowed to use machines and usually worked in a factorylike environment. A Cincinnati subdepot was opened in Steubenville, Ohio, which operated separately, making mostly trousers and four-button uniform fatigue blouses.35
The Cincinnati Depot also became the main manufacturing facility for tents for the entire army. Of particular social significance is that women ran the tent factory from the top down almost entirely, including supervisory positions.36 This depot was also the first to employ women as clerks, positions always previously held by men. In a report dated December 6, 1864, the commanding officer of the depot stated, “I have been employing female clerks in the office of Clothing and Equipage, and the experiment thus far has fully met my expectations. They are industrious, reticent, and more reliable than a man and can be hired for less wages.”37 By July 1864 Schuylkill Arsenal alone employed 5,129 women, most of whom worked from home. They picked up the precut garments at the arsenal, each tied in a separate bundle, took them home, and returned them when completed. A few of these women worked either within the arsenal or in a downtown facility where they used sewing machines to make army forage caps, chevrons, and canteen covers.38 The women averaged $3.20 a week.39 The women had proved to be an indispensable part of the war effort, and the Civil War had opened the door for them in the workforce and laid the groundwork for the future.
A lead-filled, sheet brass-stamped belt plate of the Ohio Volunteer Militia. A number of states on both sides started the war with items made earlier. Others continued to manufacture these distinctive plates for the first year or two of the war.
Prewar militia painted eagle drum, somewhat similar to those used by the regular army. STEVE ROGERS COLLECTION
Civil War 11th New York Ellsworth Fire Zouaves chasseur cap worn by Lieutenant Henry Jacob Winser at the very moment he accompanied Colonel Elmer E. Ellsworth atop the Marshall House, handed him his pocketknife to cut down the offending Confederate flag, and caught his martyred body as it fell from Secessionist proprietor James W. Jackson’s deadly shotgun blast. JAMES C. FRASCA COLLECTIONS
Fine linen havelock worn by Chaplain Charles Babbidge of the 6th Massachusetts Volunteer Militia during the march through Baltimore. On the inside lining, Babbidge inked his name, regiment, and “forgive our enemy.” Havelocks were entirely out of favor by the first year of the war. DON TROIANI COLLECTION
First issue jacket of the 11th New York Fire Zouaves (Ellsworth’s 1st New York Fire Zouaves). Made of poor-quality, coarse gray flannel, these uniforms wore out quickly, and before Bull Run the regiment was issued a complete new uniform of a red fez (and some blue, apparently), red fire shirt, and dark blue trousers. Captain John Leverich reported, “Those who have had the inclination and opportunity to wash, have theirs faded to almost white; while those who are at all careless, look as though they had been cooks on board a collier for a year or more.” The blue sections of this jacket are made from various mixed remnants, some of which, cheaper than others, have turned a reddish brown. JAN GORDON COLLECTION