SERVES 4
NEW ENGLAND CHOWDERS are often synonymous with starchy potatoes. Jerusalem artichokes make this soup a silky, sweet, and smooth puree, lending creaminess and a subtle nuttiness. I add dashi, ginger, and mushrooms to round out the flavor and hint at the Japanese influence in my cooking. Dashi adds a foundation of flavor to the chowder, but if you do not have it, the chowder will still be delicious with vegetable stock or water.
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, 2 minced, 1 smashed
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
12 medium Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and chopped
4 cups Dashi (here), vegetable stock, or water
Salt
1¼ pounds monkfish or other firm white fish, cut into large pieces
1 pound maitake or other locally cultivated mushrooms, cut into large pieces
Pepper
1 tablespoon butter
Handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, minced garlic, and 2 teaspoons of the ginger and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the Jerusalem artichokes and dashi and simmer until the artichokes are tender, about 12 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a blender, add 2 tablespoons of the oil, and season with salt. Process until smooth, then pour through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium saucepan. Straining makes the chowder silkier and more refined. The chowder base should be the consistency of light cream; thin it with a little water if needed. Bring the base to a simmer, add the fish, and poach at just below a simmer until just cooked through—for monkfish, about 3½ minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and brown for about 5 minutes. Add the smashed garlic, remaining teaspoon ginger, and butter and, using a spoon, baste the mushrooms until they are lightly glazed, tilting the pan so the liquid pools at the bottom edge. Serve the chowder in bowls topped with the mushrooms and parsley.