CHAPTER 3

Breads

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When it comes to einkorn, bread is a beautiful way to make this ancient grain shine. From yeasty cinnamon raisin bread to a quick batch of pitas, einkorn breads and doughs are some of the clearest showcases of the delicious forms einkorn can take. With all-purpose einkorn flour, expect a pale yellow hue and slighty nutty flavor; with whole-grain einkorn flour, expect a hearty, grainy texture. In either case, einkorn bread offers that same addictive quality all lifelong bread-lovers understand.

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Image Soft Sandwich Loaf

Image One-Bowl Butter Bread

Image Marble Rye Bread

Image Cinnamon Raisin Bread

Image Spinach Skillet Cornbread

Image Dinner Rolls

Image Whole-Grain Dinner Rolls

Image Focaccia with Caramelized Onions and Tomatoes

Image Rosemary Breadsticks

Image Soft, Pillowy Pita Pockets

Image Simple Homemade Tortillas

Image Avocado Parathas

Image Sourdough Slider Buns

Image Pretzel Rolls

Image Classic Artisan Sourdough Bread

Image Cherry Walnut Sourdough Boule

Image Whole-Grain Sourdough

Image Garlic Cheese Sourdough Croutons

Image Herbed Bread Crumbs

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Image SOFT SANDWICH LOAF

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As soon as we started using einkorn flour, we knew we wanted to make a simple einkorn sandwich loaf, one that would be a go-to for sandwiches, toast, and more. What we love about this version is that it is not only those things, but, thanks to the added butter and coconut oil, it is also one of the softest, lightest breads either of us has ever had. That full tablespoon (18 g) of salt does more than bring out the nutty einkorn flour, too: It also protects against overproofing and helps the soft bread hold its shape. Use this recipe for a classic peanut butter and jelly sandwich, and prepare to fall in love.

* Combine 1/4 cup (60 ml) of warm water, yeast, and 1 tablespoon (21 g) of honey in a large bowl; let sit for 5 to 10 minutes in a warm place, until bubbly and frothy. If mixture does not bubble and froth, wait longer or start over. This step is crucial.

* Add remaining tablespoon (21 g) of honey, milk, remaining 1/4 cup (60 ml) of water, coconut oil, butter, and salt; stir together. Add 1 cup (125 g) of flour at a time, stirring after each addition, until you can use your hands to form a ball of dough (note: wetter dough = softer loaf) and place it in an oiled bowl. Cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Then, dust the dough and a work surface with flour, and knead dough for 5 to 10 minutes, adding more flour as needed, until dough is smooth and elastic. Reform into a ball, place back in the oiled bowl, cover with a towel, and let rest for 45 minutes in a warm place. Form into loaf and place in a greased 8.5 × 4.5-inch (22 × 12 cm) loaf pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 1 to 2 hours, until it’s puffed out a little and filled the pan.

* Toward the end of the rise period, preheat oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5).

* Once ready, slash the top of the loaf vertically down the middle, brush it with milk, and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until browned. (The bottom should also sound hollow when tapped.)

Yield: One loaf

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1/2 cup (120 ml) warm water (105 to 110°F [40 to 43°C]), divided

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons, or 9 g) active dry yeast

2 tablespoons (42 g) honey, divided

1/2 cup (120 ml) milk

1 tablespoon (13 g) coconut oil, melted

1 tablespoon (14 g) butter, melted

1 tablespoon (18 g) sea salt

3 to 3 1/2 cups (375 to 438 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus more for dusting fingers and work surface

1 to 2 teaspoons (125 g) milk, for brushing loaf before baking

Recipe Note

For a whole-grain twist on the soft sandwich bread, swap in the same weight (3 3/4 to 4 1/3 cups, or 375 to 438 g) of whole-grain einkorn flour for the all-purpose. What will result is a heartier, grainer version of the sandwich bread, one that is denser but just as delicious.

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Image ONE-BOWL BUTTER BREAD

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Tim is an idea guy (we once spent an entire 2-hour date in a cafe, drumming up 100 possible future businesses, him smiling ear to ear). So it’s no surprise that sometimes he’ll announce a recipe he wants to try, designed strictly in his head—and that’s the way this bowl bread came to be. Looking for a basic bread recipe that could both come together, rise, and bake in the same container, he came up with this simple version of a hearty, soft loaf that slices up beautifully for crostini like the ones on page 77. With a crisp crust and a soft crumb, this one-bowl bread is enough to make idea lovers out of all of us.

* In a large bowl, combine yeast with sugar and warm water, and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, until frothy and bubbly. Add flour and salt to yeast mixture, stir together until it begins to come together, and then use your clean, floured hands to form it into a dough. Turn dough out onto floured surface and knead for a minute or two, until smooth. Let rest on the counter for 10 minutes. In the meantime, butter the inside of an oven-safe 1- or 2-quart bowl (such as Pyrex). Knead dough for another 1 to 2 minutes; add to the buttered bowl, cover with a towel, and let rise for 2 hours in a warm place.

* After dough has risen, preheat oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5). Gently brush the top of the dough with the remainder of melted butter, and place the oven-safe bowl with dough in the oven. Bake for 35 minutes, until golden on top and hollow when tapped. Invert the bowl and let the bread cool on a rack or cutting board. Crust should be golden and crisp with a soft inside. Once cooled, slice bread to use for sandwiches, toast, or crostini (see headnote).

Yield: 1 loaf

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1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons, or 9 g) active dry yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup (235 ml) warm water (105 to 110°F [40 to 43°C])

3 cups (375 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

3 tablespoons (42 g) butter melted, divided, for brushing dough and bowl

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Image MARBLE RYE BREAD

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We love this marbled einkorn rye both because of its traditional rye flavor and because of its beautifully swirled insides. It’s especially nice on BLTs (page 112), or toasted and covered in jam.

* Prepare Dough 1: Proof yeast by whisking it with warm water and honey in a bowl and letting sit 10 minutes or longer, until frothy and bubbly. If yeast hasn’t activated in that time, let it rest longer or start over. Don’t skip this; if the yeast shows no activity, it is likely dead, and your bread won’t rise. Add einkorn flour, rye flour, salt, caraway seeds, and milk. Knead briefly, about 1 to 2 minutes, until dough comes together. Form into a ball of dough and let rest, covered, for 30 minutes right in bowl.

* Prepare Dough 2: Repeat the process above for dough 1 but with dough 2 ingredients.

* After doughs have rested, preheat oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5) and grease a 9 × 5-inch or 8 × 4-inch (23 × 13 cm or 20 × 10 cm) loaf pan. Divide each dough into 3 equal portions. Roll out each portion to approximately 9 × 4 inches, or a little larger than the pan you are using. Once all 6 portions are rolled out, you can stack them, twist them, braid them, or roll them together. For the stacking method, stack them on top of each other while alternating the doughs: light, dark, light, dark, and so on. Curl the sides down and under the stack and place in the loaf pan. Cover and let rise for 60 to 90 minutes, until doubled in size.

* Brush with egg wash. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until loaf sounds hollow when tapped.

Yield: 1 loaf, or 14 to 16 slices

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FOR DOUGH 1:

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water (105 to 115°F [40 to 46°C])

1 teaspoon honey or sugar

1 1/4 cup (156 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus extra for dusting

2/3 cup (75 g) whole-grain rye flour

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

1/2 cup (120 ml) milk

FOR DOUGH 2:

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water (100 to 110°F [37 to 43°C])

1 teaspoon honey or sugar

1 1/4 cups (156 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus up to 1 cup (125 g)

2/3 cup (75 g) rye flour

2 tablespoons (11 g) cocoa powder

3 tablespoons (60 g) molasses

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1/2 cup (120 ml) milk

FOR THE EGG WASH:

1 egg, beaten

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Image CINNAMON RAISIN BREAD

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When I was a little girl, sleeping over at my grandma’s house, she showed me her favorite late-night snack: toasted cinnamon raisin bread with sliced apples on the side. When we make this einkorn version, with its light crumb and pale golden hue, I eat a toasted slice, I think of her, and it’s as if I’m 6 years old again. Even without the memories though, this bread is a showstopper: dark and domed on the outside, perfectly swirled in the interior.

* In a saucepan over medium heat, stir together butter, milk, kefir, coconut sugar, and salt. Bring to the beginning of a boil (where a few little bubbles start coming up on the surface); remove from heat and set aside to cool.

* Proof yeast by whisking it with warm water, ginger powder, and honey in a large bowl and letting sit 10 minutes or longer, until frothy and bubbly. If yeast hasn’t activated in that time, let it rest longer or start over. Don’t skip this; if the yeast shows no activity, it is likely dead, and your bread won’t rise. Combine filling ingredients in a small bowl.

* Add cooled milk mixture to the yeast mixture, and whisk in 1 egg. Stir in 2 cups (250 g) of the einkorn flour with a wooden spoon. Keep adding more flour until the batter begins to feel stiff and comes together, no longer sticky and able to be formed into a ball.

* Lightly flour your work surface, then turn out dough and knead for 5 to 8 minutes, working to develop an elastic, soft texture in the dough. Form it into a ball and place in a greased bowl, turning once to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled in size, about an hour.

* After dough has doubled, punch it down. On a floured surface, roll the dough out into a rectangle 16 inches (41 cm) wide and 9 inches (23 cm) long. Spread the filling mixture evenly all over the dough, leaving a 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch (3 mm to 6 mm) border along the edges. Starting at the shorter end, roll the dough up like a jelly roll. Tuck the ends under each side and place the dough in a greased 8.5 × 4.5-inch (22 × 12 cm) loaf pan. Cover and let rise for 45 minutes to an hour; it should rise and puff out to fill the pan.

* Toward the end of the rise period, preheat oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Once the loaf is ready, beat the remaining egg in a small bowl and brush it all over the top of the loaf. Bake bread for 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack, butter the top, and let bread cool completely before removing from pan to serve.

Yield: 1 loaf, about 15 slices

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FOR THE BREAD:

6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, plus more for brushing

1/2 cup (120 ml) milk

1/4 cup (60 ml) kefir

1/4 cup (40 g) coconut sugar

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water (105 to 115°F [40 to 46°C])

1 teaspoon ginger powder

1 tablespoon honey

2 eggs, divided

Up to 4 cups (500 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus more for dusting

FOR THE FILLING:

1/4 cup (40 g) coconut sugar

2 tablespoons (14 g) cinnamon

1/4 cup (40 g) raisins

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Image SPINACH SKILLET CORNBREAD

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As northerners who now live in Tennessee, cornbread presents something of a controversy. In the South, where we live, cornbread is usually savory, made sans sugar and often cooked in bacon grease; in Illinois and Ohio, where we grew up, cornbread is more of a cake, sweet and delicate, often made in muffin cups. In this spinach skillet version, we combine the best of both worlds. Savory, bacon-infused spinach blends with a sweet, light corn cake and it’s hard to stop eating.

One of the most surprising things about this recipe is that, beyond the grease the spinach is cooked in, there is no oil or butter in the mix. True confession: That’s because we forgot to add it when we tested the recipe—but, after we tasted this airy, sweet and savory result, we realized we’d stumbled upon a winner.

* Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C, or gas mark 8). Heat bacon grease in a 10-inch (25 cm) cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add 4 cups (125 g) chopped fresh spinach and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until wilted. Remove from heat.

* While the spinach is cooking, in a large bowl, combine einkorn flour, cornmeal, coconut sugar, baking powder, and salt. In a separate, small bowl, whisk together eggs and combine with honey, yogurt, and water. Add this wet mixture to the dry one. Pour batter over cooked spinach using a spoon to spread the batter evenly over the greens.

* Lower oven temperature to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5) and immediately put skillet inside. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan for 10 minutes, then run a butter knife along the edges and turn the skillet over onto a cutting board or platter. Serve bread warm or cool, with butter on top.

Yield: One 10-inch (25 cm) cornbread, about 8 servings

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FOR THE SPINACH:

1 tablespoon (13 g) bacon grease

4 cups (125 g) chopped fresh spinach

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

FOR THE CORNBREAD:

1 1/2 cups (187 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

3/4 cup (105 g) cornmeal

1/2 cup (80 g) coconut sugar

1 tablespoon (14 g) baking powder

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

2 eggs, beaten

3 tablespoons (60 g) honey

1/2 cup (115 g) whole-milk plain yogurt

1/4 cup (60 ml) water

DINNER ROLLS

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With a firm, golden crust and a soft, yeasty interior, these dinner rolls are incredibly versatile. We recommend making them alongside a meal with lots of sauce or gravy, using the dinner rolls to sop up flavorful juices.

* In a large bowl, combine warm water and honey, and sprinkle yeast over the top, quickly combining the mixture with a fork. Let yeast mixture sit for 5 to 10 minutes, until frothy and bubbly. If the mixture is not very frothy, give it more time or start over. The yeast must be activated in order for the rolls to rise. Meanwhile, in a medium-size bowl, stir together 2 3/4 cups (344 g) flour, salt, milk, and 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter to create a mixture that’s dry and crumbly. Add this flour mixture to the prepared yeast mixture, and stir together until the mixture begins to form a dough, using your clean, floured hands if necessary to work the dough together.

* Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for about 5 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Form dough into a ball and place inside a greased bowl. Cover and set in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours, until doubled in size.

* Grease an 8 × 8-inch (20 × 20 cm) glass baking dish. Punch down dough with your fist and turn it out onto a floured work surface. Flatten dough into a 9 × 9-inch (23 × 23 cm) square that’s 1/2 inch (13 mm) thick and cut out 3-inch (7.6 cm) rounds. Rework scraps of dough into a new 1/2-inch (13 mm)-thick piece, and repeat cutting process until you have used up the dough and created 9 rounds. Place them close together in prepared dish, smooshing and pressing them together as necessary, and score the middle of the rounds with a knife. Brush the outsides with remaining tablespoon (14 g) of butter and cover dish with a towel. Let rest for another hour in a warm place.

* Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden on top and around the sides; be careful not to overbake. Remove from oven, let cool in pan for 5 minutes, and then remove rolls to wire racks to cool. Serve with butter and, if desired, honey.

Yield: 9 rolls

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1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water (100 to 110°F [37 to 43°C])

2 tablespoons (40 g) honey

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

2 3/4 to 3 cups (344 to 375 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus more for dusting

3/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup (120 ml) warm milk

3 tablespoons (43 g) butter, melted, divided

WHOLE-GRAIN DINNER ROLLS

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These hearty dinner rolls take the nutty, grainy flavor of whole-grain einkorn flour and showcase it in yeasty, doughy rolls baked alongside one another in a small pan.

* Proof yeast by whisking it with warm water and honey in a bowl and letting sit 10 minutes or longer, until frothy and bubbly. If yeast hasn’t activated in that time, let it rest longer or start over. Don’t skip this; if the yeast shows no activity, it is likely dead, and your bread won’t rise. Meanwhile, stir together 3 1/4 cups (325 g) flour, salt, milk, and 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter in a large bowl. Add cooled yeast mixture to the flour mixture and stir together until the mixture begins to come together. If dough is still sticky, add up to another 1/4 cup (31 g) of flour and work mixture together.

* Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 5 minutes. Form dough into a ball; place inside a greased bowl in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours, until puffed and risen. If, after 2 hours, the ball hasn’t risen at all, turn it back out onto a floured surface, knead for 5 minutes, and return to oiled bowl for another 1 to 2 hours.

* Grease a 9 × 12-inch (23 × 30 cm) glass baking dish. Punch down dough with your fist and turn it out onto a floured work surface. Flatten dough into a 11-inch (28 cm) square that’s 1/2 inch (13 mm) thick and cut out 3-inch (7.6 cm) rounds. Rework scraps of dough into a new 1/2-inch (13 mm)-thick piece, and repeat cutting process until you have used up the dough and created 12 rounds. Place them close together in prepared dish, smooshing and pressing them together as necessary, and score the middle of the rounds with a knife. Brush the outsides with remaining tablespoon (14 g) of butter and cover dish with a towel. Let rest for another hour in a warm place.

* Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Bake rolls for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden; don’t overbake. Remove from oven, let cool in pan for 5 minutes, and remove rolls to wire racks to cool. Serve with butter and, if desired, honey.

Yield: 12 rolls

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1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water (100 to 110°F [37 to 43°C])

2 tablespoons (40 g) honey

3 1/4 to 3 1/2 cups (325 to 350 g) freshly milled, sifted einkorn flour

3/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup (120 ml) warm milk

3 tablespoons (42 g) butter, melted, divided, plus more for brushing

FOCACCIA WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND TOMATOES

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It’s hard to think of anything prettier emerging from the oven than a large, dimpled focaccia like this one. Soft and pillowy, studded with tomatoes and caramelized onions, it’s as eye-catching as it is heady with the scent of garlic and herbs.

* Proof yeast by whisking it with 1 cup (235 ml) warm water and honey in a bowl and letting sit 10 minutes or longer, until frothy and bubbly. If yeast hasn’t activated in that time, let it rest longer or start over. Don’t skip this; if the yeast shows no activity, it is likely dead and your bread won’t rise.

* Meanwhile, warm coconut oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often. Once onions are beginning to caramelize, about 20 minutes, remove from heat.

* To the yeast mixture, stir in 2 teaspoons salt, remaining water, and 2 cups (250 g) flour. The mixture will look wet and lumpy, like porridge. Stir in more flour until the mixture begins to come together. Use floured hands to knead dough in bowl for 2 to 3 minutes, until soft and elastic but still slightly sticky. Place the ball of dough in an oiled bowl for an hour, or until doubled.

* Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C, or gas mark 8). Drizzle a little olive oil on your fingers and use them to turn dough out onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, forming it into an 11 × 13-inch (23 × 33 cm) rectangle. Use your fingers to press deep dimples all over the dough; drizzle with half the olive oil. Top with coarse salt, Italian herbs, caramelized onions, grated garlic, halved grape tomatoes (cut side down), and Pecorino cheese.

* Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden, and brush edges with remaining olive oil. Let cool slightly before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 16 servings

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1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

2 cups (475 ml) warm water (about 100 to 105°F), divided

1 teaspoon honey

1 tablespoon (13 g) coconut oil

1 small or half a large onion (4 ounces, or 115 g), sliced

2 teaspoons sea salt

4 to 5 cups (500 to 625 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

2 tablespoons (28 ml) olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 tablespoon (2 g) dried Italian herbs (e.g. basil, rosemary, oregano, and/or parsley)

2 cloves garlic, grated

1 1/2 cups (110 g) grape tomatoes, halved

1/4 cup (25 g) grated Pecorino cheese

ROSEMARY BREADSTICKS

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These long, doughy breadsticks are the ideal accompaniment to both salad and soup, where they’re great for sopping up extra juices. What makes them unique is the cream cheese worked into the dough, which turns ordinary breadsticks into what tastes almost like refined pastries. Studded with rosemary and salt, they’re as flavorful as they are addictive.

* In a large bowl, combine water, yeast, ginger powder, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Let sit for 10 minutes, until frothy and bubbly. Stir in einkorn flour, remaining sugar, and salt, until mixture becomes a floppy, wrinkly dough. Cut in butter with a pastry cutter or 2 forks; the dough will not look or behave like pie dough, so you’re not shooting for the butter to be small pebbles throughout; rather, cut in the butter until all of its pieces are broken up and small, spread throughout. Next, fold in Pecorino and cream cheese, using your floured hands to work the dough together until mixed. Form mixture into a ball, kneading and working it together right in the bowl, about 2 or 3 minutes. Place the soft ball of dough in an oiled bowl, cover with a towel, and let rest for 20 minutes.

* Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C, or gas mark 7) and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Pinch off 2-inch (5 cm) balls of dough, and roll them into 10-inch (25 cm)-long logs that are roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Place the logs on parchment paper.

* In a small bowl, whisk together 1 egg white and a teaspoon of water. Brush this mixture on prepared breadsticks. Sprinkle rosemary and salt on top. Bake breadsticks for 10 to 15 minutes, until crisp and golden. Serve warm, brushed with melted butter.

Yield: 13 breadsticks

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FOR THE BREADSTICKS:

1 cup (235 ml) warm water (100 to 110°F [37 to 43°C])

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

1/4 teaspoon ginger powder

4 teaspoons (18 g) coconut sugar, Sucanat, or honey, divided

3 1/2 cups (438 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

3 tablespoons (42 g) butter, cold and cubed

2 tablespoons (12 g) grated Pecorino

2/3 cup (100 g) cream cheese, crumbled

FOR THE BREADSTICK TOPPING:

1 egg white

1 teaspoon water

2 tablespoons (3 g) chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 tablespoon [3 g] dried)

1 to 2 tablespoons (18 to 36 g) coarse salt

1 tablespoon (14 g) butter, melted, for brushing

Recipe Note

♦ Note that the recipe calls for 1 to 2 tablespoons (18 to 36 g) of coarse salt. Using 1 gives a light, salt-kissed flavor, perfect with salads; using 2 makes them extra salty, as a nice foil to creamy soup.

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Image SOFT, PILLOWY PITA POCKETS

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Pitas were one of the first recipes we tried with einkorn, the two of us alone in the kitchen one afternoon, forming balls of dough and watching them puff. What goes into the hot oven as a round of dough emerges, minutes later, as an inflated pillow, perfect for dipping in hummus or stuffing as you like.

* Proof yeast by combining it with warm water and honey in a large bowl, whisking together, and letting sit 10 minutes or longer, until frothy and bubbly. If yeast hasn’t activated in that time, let it rest longer or start over. Don’t skip this step; if the yeast shows no activity, it is likely dead, and this will keep your pitas from rising.

* Stir in 2 1/2 cups (313 g) flour, baking powder, olive oil, and salt. At first, the mixture may look dry, but it will come together enough for you to use your clean hands to work it together into a ball, pressing and shaping it together. If it doesn’t, add a tablespoon (15 ml) of water at a time to make it workable. If it’s too wet, add up to another 1/2 cup (63 g) flour, until workable. Knead dough in bowl for 5 minutes. Place the ball of dough in an oiled bowl, cover with a towel, and let rest until doubled in size, about an hour.

* Divide dough into 8 equal balls. On lightly floured parchment, roll the balls into 5 to 6-inch (13 to 15 cm) circles that are about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Cut out parchment around the pitas.

* Preheat oven to 500°F (260°C, or gas mark 10), and place a baking stone or baking pan inside. Let pitas rest on the counter while oven warms. After 30 minutes, use a pizza peel or large spatula to slide the parchment-lined pitas directly onto the preheated stone or pan, working with a few at a time. Bake pitas for 4 minutes each, until puffed and golden. Enjoy!

Yield: 8 pitas

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1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

3/4 cup (175 ml) warm water (100 to 110°F [37 to 43°C])

1 tablespoon (20 g) honey

2 1/2 to 3 cups (313 to 375 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus more for dusting

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon olive oil, plus more for oiling bowl

1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

Recipe Note

♦ In a rush? You can skip the hour rise time—your pitas won’t be as soft, but they will be fast flatbreads.

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Image SIMPLE HOMEMADE TORTILLAS

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Tim’s sister gave us a tortilla press that makes flattening tortillas an easy process, but, with or without a press, these tortillas are the definition of simple. The first time we made them, we kept saying we wish we’d done it sooner, loving their soft, golden exterior as much as the thrill of watching them form! These einkorn tortillas are easily stuffed for tacos or enchiladas and make excellent quesadillas for an easy lunch or snack.

* In a medium-size bowl, stir together flour, olive oil, salt, and warm water. Using clean hands, work the mixture together into a ball of dough, kneading it in the bowl until it comes together. Set the ball in the bowl and cover with a towel; let rest for 15 to 30 minutes.

* On a floured surface or large piece of parchment paper, divide the dough into 12 to 14 balls, each about 1 1/2-inches (3.8 cm) wide.

* Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat on the stove. If using a tortilla press, line both sides of the press with plastic wrap, and flatten 1 dough round between the press. If not using a tortilla press, use a rolling pin and a floured surface to roll 1 dough round into a 5 to 6-inch (13 to 15 cm) circle.

* Working with one at a time, place a flattened tortilla on the hot skillet. Within a minute or two, you should start seeing a lot of bubbles forming on the top of the dough. At this point, use kitchen tongs or a spatula to flip the tortilla and cook for right around a minute on the other side, until both sides are golden, with brown spots, and firm. Remove tortilla to a clean towel and cover to keep warm. Repeat rolling and cooking process with remaining dough.

Yield: 12 to 14 tortillas

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2 1/4 cups (280 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus up to 1/4 cup (31 g) more

1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil or melted coconut oil (or a combination of the two)

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 cup (120 ml) warm water (100 to 110°F [37 to 43°C])

AVOCADO PARATHAS

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Avocado parathas are simple Indian frybreads with a pale green color and a slight kick of spice, perfect alongside a meal with lots of sauce for dipping.

* In a medium bowl, mash together avocado flesh, lemon juice, and salt, until there are no longer any firm pieces and everything is a uniform texture throughout. Mash in the turmeric, cumin, ginger powder, and red pepper flakes. Then, add 1/2 cup (63 g) of einkorn flour and, using your clean hands, work the mixture together into a dough. Add up to another 1/2 cup (63 g) of flour if needed. The dough is ready when the bowl is clean, with all the mixture absorbing into the dough, and the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough may be covered for an hour at this point at room temperature, covered and chilled overnight in the fridge, or used right away.

* When ready to cook the parathas, warm a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Divide dough into 8 equal pieces, and roll each one into a ball in your hands, setting it on a floured surface. Using a tortilla press (or a floured surface and a rolling pin), flatten each ball of dough into a thin 5 to 6-inch (13 to 15 cm) round (about 1/16 inch [1.5 mm] thick). If at any point the dough becomes sticky, add extra flour to your hands as you roll it between your hands, letting it absorb into the dough.

* Sauté the rounds on the heated skillet, one at a time, flipping frequently and adding oil to the pan as you do. Each paratha should take 3 to 6 minutes to cook—you’ll see brown spots dotting each side once done. Move cooked parathas to a towel or covered dish to stay warm. Leftover parathas may be stored in a refrigerated airtight container for up to a week.

Yield: 8 parathas

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1 medium (150 g) avocado, pitted and peeled

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon ginger powder

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 to 1 cup (63 to 125 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, plus more for flouring surfaces

2 tablespoons (26 g) coconut oil, melted, for oiling pan

SOURDOUGH SLIDER BUNS

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As written, this recipe yields small, 3-inch (7.6 cm) buns that crack on top while baking and feature a sweet, buttery flavor so enticing, you may want to eat these on their own. If you want larger buns for full-size burgers, simply form the balls into the size you like. Also, if you prefer smooth tops for your buns (with no cracks on top), skip the honey butter and herbs, and brush a little butter on the buns after baking instead.

* Combine sourdough starter, sugar, oil, egg, and salt in a large bowl. Add flour, 1 cup (125 g) at a time, until the dough becomes too stiff to stir. Use your hands to knead it into a workable dough, adding more flour as needed, kneading for about 5 to 10 minutes. Dough should be soft and elastic, not sticky. Knead in the bowl a few times and then move to an oiled bowl to rest, turning it to cover in the oil. Cover and let dough rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

* Pinch off pieces of dough into 3-inch (7.6 cm) balls; you’ll get about 10. Stretch the dough across the top and bottoms of the balls to make them as smooth and taut as possible; this will help the buns form properly as they bake. Place on parchment-lined baking sheets and flatten slightly. Let rise for another hour; they might not become much bigger, but letting them rest will aid their rise in the oven.

* Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5). In a small bowl, mix together butter and honey and brush rolls with this mixture. If using, add dried herbs to the tops of each roll for extra flavor.

* Bake rolls until lightly golden, 15 to 20 minutes, rotating pan halfway through. Slice one in half horizontally to double-check doneness; let buns cool before slicing and filling as you like.

Yield: Ten 3-inch (7.6 cm) buns

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1 1/2 cups (397 g) fed sourdough starter

1/3 cup (53 g) coconut sugar

2 tablespoons (28 ml) olive oil

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 1/2 to 3 cups (313 to 375 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

1 tablespoon (14 g) butter, melted, for brushing

1 tablespoon (15 g) honey, for brushing

1 to 2 tablespoons (4 to 8 g) dried herbs, such as Simply Organic Garlic ’n’ Herb, optional

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Image PRETZEL ROLLS

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These dinner rolls feature a firm, browned exterior dimpled with salt and a soft, yeasty interior that marries well with butter. Form them a little larger, and you have pretzel buns for burgers or sandwiches. Roll them into logs and form them into pretzels, and you have traditional Bavarian-style pretzels to dip in sauce.

* Proof yeast by combining it with warm water and honey in a large bowl, whisking together, and letting sit 10 minutes or longer, until frothy and bubbly. If yeast hasn’t activated in that time, let it rest longer or start over. Don’t skip this step; if the yeast shows no activity, it is likely dead, and this will keep your rolls from rising.

* Stir melted butter into yeast mixture and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in salt and flour, use your hands to form the mixture into a shaggy dough, and turn dough onto a floured surface, kneading 5 minutes, adding more flour if needed. Form dough into a ball and place in an oiled bowl. Cover with a clean towel and place in a warm place until doubled in size (about an hour).

* When dough is ready, preheat oven to 425°F (220°C, or gas mark 7) and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Divide the dough into 12 to 16 equal pieces, and form each piece into a ball about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) wide, stretching the top simultaneously to each side and tucking the ends under. Place the balls, seam side down, on the parchment-lined baking sheets.

* Bring 3 quarts (2.8 L) water to a boil and slowly add baking soda. Boil the rolls one at a time, rolling to cover, about 30 seconds. Remove back to the baking sheets with a slotted spoon. Brush rolls with beaten egg and sprinkle with sea salt. Cut an X into the top of each roll.

* Bake 12 to 15 minutes, rotating sheets halfway through, until rolls are firm and beautifully brown.

Yield: 12 to 16 rolls

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1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons [9 g]) active dry yeast

1 cup (235 ml) warm water (105 to 115°F [40 to 46°C])

1 tablespoon (20 g) honey

4 tablespoons (55 g) unsalted butter, melted

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

3 1/2 cups (438 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

Olive oil, for bowl

3 quarts (2.8 L) water

3/4 cup (170 g) baking soda

1 egg, beaten

Coarse salt, for sprinkling

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Image CLASSIC ARTISAN SOURDOUGH BREAD

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Usually, we know better than to make any grand sweeping claims with bread—but, truly, we think this is some of the best bread we have ever had. Most artisan sourdoughs utilizing ancient grains combine other flours, gluten, or enhancers in order to achieve the artisan loaf. We wanted to create a beautiful sourdough that was 100 percent einkorn to protect some of the benefits it offers over other varieties of wheat or gluten. We feel that some of the best parts of einkorn are only enhanced by the long-ferment process outlined below.

* Day 1: For the preferment, in a large bowl, combine sourdough starter, flour, water, and ginger powder. Mix until just combined. The mixture should be a very thick, sticky batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place a towel on top to keep light out (to prevent oxidation). Let mixture sit on the counter overnight, or 8 to 12 hours.

* Day 2: After its overnight rest, the preferment should be at least twice its size and bubbly. Add 1 cup (125 g) of flour, water, sea salt, and honey. Stir until all ingredients are incorporated. The resulting mixture will still be very sticky. Pour the remaining 1 cup (125 g) of flour out onto a counter or workspace, flour hands well, and pour out the dough onto the floured counter. Begin to knead the dough gently by working the flour into the dough, adding more as needed to keep it from sticking to the counter. Knead for about 5 minutes until most of the flour is worked into the dough. The dough should be smooth and semi-elastic but still a bit tacky or sticky.

* Spread or stretch out the dough into a rectangle, about 16 × 8 inches (40 × 20 cm). Fold one of the short sides in like a letter, then fold the top halfway down. Fold the other short side all the way over, and lastly stretch and fold the bottom flap over the top. Flip over and, using your hands to cup the sides, form a tight ball with the dough. Place the ball into a well-floured towel-lined 8-inch (20 cm) rising bowl or brotform; you can use rice flour to flour the towel as it is excellent to keep dough from sticking, but einkorn flour works as well. Cover with the ends of the towel gently and if possible place the whole bowl or brotform into a plastic bag to keep the moisture in. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

* Day 3: Place a baking stone in the oven on the middle rack and preheat to 500°F (260°C, or gas mark 10). Allow oven/stone to heat for at least 45 minutes before baking bread.

* About 15 minutes before baking bread, either place a large baking dish with 2 inches (5 cm) of water on the lowest rack, or place multiple oven-safe bowls with 2 inches (5 cm) of water on the lowest rack (my preferred method). The idea is to create steam in the oven, which is most important in the first 20 minutes of baking to help the rise and to form a beautiful crust. Alternatively, you may preheat a Dutch oven (with lid) and bake the bread in the Dutch oven, which will also keep the moisture in, removing the lid after the first 25 minutes.

* After placing your water pan on the lower rack (about 15 minutes before you bake the bread), remove the bread from the refrigerator and take the bowl out of the bag. Using a baker’s peel or cutting board lined with parchment paper, place it on top of the bowl and invert the bowl onto the lined peel/cutting board. Remove the bowl and the towel gently. Slash the top of the dough with a sharp knife or a serrated knife, about 1/2 inch (13 mm) deep, ensuring that the dough separates slightly at the slash. You may slash in whatever pattern you like, but I recommend at least 3 slashes. Let sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes.

* Carefully slide the dough onto the hot stone in the oven (or into the hot Dutch oven). Reduce the temperature to 475°F (250°C or gas mark 9) and bake for 25 minutes (keep oven closed for the whole 25 minutes to keep as much steam in the oven as possible). After 25 minutes, reduce temperature to 450°F (230°C) and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. If the bread seems to be cooking unevenly on one side, carefully rotate the bread to cook evenly for the remaining 15 to 20 minutes. The crust should be very dark, with the slashes or breaks showing a golden glow. The bottom of the loaf should sound hollow when tapped.

* Remove the bread from the oven and cool on a rack for at least 1 hour before slicing. The crust should be crunchy with a tender and moist inner crumb (not too tight, but with some small pockets and holes).

Yield: 1 loaf

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HELPFUL TOOLS

Kitchen scale

8-inch (20 cm) rising bowl or basket (brotform)

Active sourdough starter

Baking stone

Baker’s peel

DAY 1—PREFERMENT

1/2 cup (110 g) active sourdough starter maintained at 120 percent hydration (see note)

3 cups (375 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

1 cup (240 ml) purified water

1/4 teaspoon organic ginger powder

DAY 2—COLD FERMENT

2 cups (250 g) all-purpose einkorn flour, divided

1/2 cup (115 g or ml) purified water

2 teaspoons sea salt

2 tablespoons (40 g) honey

Extra einkorn flour or rice flour for dusting surface

DAY 3

Water

Recipe Note

♦ To maintain your starter at 120 percent hydration, simply add 1/2 cup (120 ml) of water for every 3/4 (100 grams) of flour (or any division of that such as 1/4 cup [60 grams] water to 1/3 cup [50 grams] flour). After a few feedings at this ratio your starter should be an easy to maintain batter.

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Image CHERRY WALNUT SOURDOUGH BOULE

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This recipe uses the same method as the artisan sourdough, but for a much sweeter result. Note that, as in our other sourdough recipes, weighing in grams is preferred.

* Day 1: Follow recipe as directed in the Classic Artisan Sourdough (page 66).

* Day 2: Follow the Classic Artisan Sourdough recipe up through stretching into a rectangle. Spread half of the dried cherries and walnuts on the rectangle. Fold the short end in like a letter and spread more cherries and walnuts on the fold. Fold the top halfway down and spread more cherries and walnuts on the fold. Fold the other short end all the way over and add the remaining cherries and walnuts. Lastly, stretch and fold the bottom over the top. If you have extra cherries or walnuts or did not have enough don’t worry; it does not have to be exact. Flip the dough over and using your hands to cup the sides, form a circle or ball with the dough. Continue on with placing the dough in the refrigerator overnight as directed in the Artisan Sourdough recipe.

* Day 3: Follow Artisan Sourdough recipe.

Yield: 1 loaf

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DAY 1—PREFERMENT

1 cup (220 g) active sourdough starter at 120 percent hydration

3 cups (375 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

1 cup (230 g) purified water

1/4 teaspoon organic ginger powder

DAY 2—COLD FERMENT

2 cups (250 g) all-purpose einkorn flour

1/4 cup (57 g) purified water

1/3 cup (53 g) Sucanat or unrefined sugar

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 cup (160 g) whole dried cherries

3/4 cup chopped walnuts (85 g)

WHOLE-GRAIN SOURDOUGH

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This recipe variation essentially uses the same method as the artisan sourdough, but it takes into account some of the differences when using fresh ground flour from whole-grain einkorn berries.

* Follow full Classic Artisan Sourdough recipe directions on page 66, using proportions listed here.

Yield: 1 loaf

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DAY 1—PREFERMENT

1/2 cup (110 g) active sourdough starter at 120 percent hydration

3 cups (300 g) freshly ground einkorn flour

1 cup (230 g) purified water

Dash of ginger

DAY 2—COLD FERMENT

1/2 cup (115 g) purified water

2 cups (200 g) flour + 1 cup (100 g) for turning out and kneading in

2 teaspoons sea salt

2 tablespoons (40 g) honey

GARLIC CHEESE SOURDOUGH CROUTONS

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Next time you want to give your salad a lift—although, actually, these are addictive enough to eat on their own—make these croutons. Not only do they make your kitchen smell like an Italian restaurant while they bake, but they also marry tangy bread with cheese and garlic, a winning combination if we’ve ever known one.

* Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C, or gas mark 2). Melt butter with olive oil and grated garlic in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Place the cubed sourdough bread in a large bowl and pour warmed butter mixture on top. Add Pecorino cheese, parsley, and salt; stir together or massage with clean fingers to combine. Spread on a baking sheet in a single layer and bake for 45 minutes to an hour, tossing at least once. Croutons are done when they are crisp and golden, with a strong crunch when you bite in.

Yield: 2 cups (200 g) of croutons

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3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil

4 cloves of garlic, grated

3 cups (200 to 220 g) cubed einkorn sourdough bread (cubed into 1/2-inch to 1-inch [13 mm to 2.5 cm] squares)

1/4 cup (25 g) grated Pecorino cheese

1/3 cup (14 g) chopped parsley

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

HERBED BREAD CRUMBS

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The fringe benefit of testing dozens of bread recipes is, by necessity, learning dozens of ways to use that bread up. Here, for example is a simple, flavorful way to make homemade bread crumbs, which comes in handy for many recipes in this book, such as our Italian meatballs.

* Blend the toast pieces in a food processor until very fine. Add herbs and salt and pepper and pulse to combine. Store bread crumbs in the fridge in a closed mason jar or sealed plastic bag.

Yield: Approximately 1 1/2 cups (146 g) bread crumbs

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5 slices Soft Sandwich Loaf (page 45), toasted and broken into pieces

1/4 cup (13 g) chopped fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme, or basil

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper