BULBS
As Julia Child wrote, “It’s hard to imagine a civilization without onions.” Open any cookbook and you’ll see she’s right. Alliums (the botanical genus includes edible bulbs such as shallots, garlic, onions, and ramps, plus those with edible leaves like leeks, scallions, and chives) season many favorite dishes. And thanks to the proliferation of farmers’ markets, we now have access to a wider range of these aromatic gems. What’s more, in many places, early varieties start appearing weeks after the thaw. Clearly, these bulbs are worth celebrating. But, because they are ubiquitous, long lasting, and fairly cheap, we have the luxury of taking them for granted.
Like other underground vegetables, including roots and tubers, bulbs of the allium family stockpile the energy and nutrients absorbed from the sun and earth. But bulbs store them primarily as sugars, not carbohydrates, which may explain why they go to such lengths to defend their treasures. Inside each cell, thanks to one of nature’s most brilliant defense systems, sulfur compounds are kept segregated from the enzymes that trigger them, divided by thin membranes; when the cells are broken—when you slice or bite into an onion, for example—the chemicals combine, creating the volatile gases that can make you cry.
Sulfur and sugar: the harsh married to the sweet. It is precisely this intriguing balance that makes bulbs so delicious—and essential. These alliums lend a framework to other flavors, bringing structure and flavor to dishes—and perhaps even civilizations—the world over.
THE BASICS
SEASONALITY
Because onions and garlic are available year-round, it’s easy to think they don’t have a season. But spring is when they push their tender green shoots up from the earth and begin forming a new generation of bulbs below. From March through May, seek out tender young onions, garlic, and their kin at farmers’ markets—all are mild and excellent eaten raw.
Sweet onions, such as Walla Walla, and storage onions are left to continue growing underground through the summer and into fall; you can also find excellent examples of these at farmers’ markets. For garlic to produce the cloves we all know and love, the flower buds, or scapes, must be harvested in spring. Green garlic, which could be mistaken for an overgrown scallion, has a mild flavor that’s brighter and fresher tasting than regular cloves. And lucky for us, these springtime delicacies are readily available at farmers’ markets and specialty grocers during the spring and early summer.
Ramps, also known as wild leeks, are foraged from shaded, woody areas up and down the East Coast, from Georgia to Canada, and are heralded for their garlicky flavor. Their many fans eagerly await their first appearance at farmers’ markets, where you can find them from March through early June (though you can also cultivate your own).
BUYING
Common onions and garlic are “cured”—harvested when fully mature, then dried for storage. Hardiness is key when selecting these vegetables, so at the market, give them a (very gentle) squeeze. Also, avoid bruises and mold, and shun dampness—the skins should be papery and dry. Select yellow onions for long braises and high-heat cooking; they have the strongest, richest flavor, and will hold up no matter what they’re paired with. White onions are slightly milder, and common in Mexican and South American dishes. Tamer still are red onions, with a touch of sweetness, making them the best choice for salads, sandwiches, and other dishes where they’ll be eaten raw. Among the first vegetables to appear at farmers’ markets after the snow melts, young, green-leafed bulbs—including scallions and ramps, as well as spring onions and garlic scapes—are a welcome sight; look for bunches whose greens are firm and stiff, their bulbs bright and glossy.
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Onions: White, yellow, and red are grocery-store staples, but it’s worth seeking out Vidalia and Walla Walla onions, the sweetest ones of all (especially when grown in sulfur-free soil, where they absorb none of the sharpness common to other varieties). Spring onions, planted in the fall and harvested before the bulbs have had a chance to grow (in early spring, hence their name), can be found at farm stands starting in March; they are milder and sweeter than storage onions when cooked, with a notable spiciness that makes them wonderful for grilling and pickling. They resemble scallions but have a larger bulb.
Scallions: Look for purple-bulb varieties in the spring; they have the same flavor as white ones, but make a pretty garnish.
Garlic: The garlic sold in grocery stores is intended for long storage rather than flavor, making it worth the trip to the farmers’ market to find other varieties that are usually only available from small growers. These local heads should have larger cloves and a more pronounced flavor. They are sometimes sold still on the stalks, and some have purple stripes or a reddish hue.
STORING
Dark, cool, and dry is how cured bulbs like it, so store onions, shallots, and garlic on an out-of-the way shelf or in a cabinet. Light causes them to sprout, generating green tendrils within that draw nutrients and flavor from the bulb; moisture can cause mold to form beneath the skin (which can be wiped off) or between the layers of the bulb (where it can’t be). Leeks, spring onions, ramps, and scallions, meanwhile, should be refrigerated, loosely wrapped in a plastic bag, and used within a few days.
PREPPING
Learning to cut onions quickly and skillfully is one of the smartest things novice cooks can do to make kitchen life more agreeable. Remove the papery skin (it’s called the tunic!), and unless you want rings, slice the onion in half from top to root. Lay each half flat on the board and slice into the bulb first lengthwise (leaving root intact), then crosswise. If you plan to serve onions raw—in a salad, say, or on a sandwich—you may want to first soak the pieces for five to ten minutes in an ice-water bath to remove the sulfur compounds generated on cut surfaces, or give them a brief soak in vinegar. For garlic, remove the paper sheath by gently crushing each clove with the side of a knife blade, then pull off the paper; remove any green “germ” from the cloves, as these are very bitter.
Leeks, ramps, scallions, and green garlic often need to have their tunics peeled away, too—and as these are fragile and clingy, they may require scraping with the edge of a paring knife. Then cut away the scruffy roots and slice if needed, separating the stronger-flavored white parts from the green, if the recipe requires (most do). Leeks hold onto a lot of grit in their many thick layers; cut them as directed in a recipe, then submerge in a bowl of cold water and swish thoroughly. Lift out the leeks, and repeat until you don’t see any more grit in the water. Drain and dry if sautéing or roasting.
COOKING
With a high proportion of sugars, onions take well to being caramelized. Indeed, you can grill or roast them until nearly black before their flavor is ruined. But they are equally happy cooked low and slow—gently sautéed in butter or olive oil, or oven-braised in a skillet. These are also the best methods for cooking delicate-flavored leeks, ramps, and scallions, which all take well to a quick pass through a hot flame, giving them a dramatic charred flavor that pairs well with meat. Ramps are excellent mixed into pestos and compound butters; sautéed and tossed with spaghetti or served over soft polenta; or treated like herbs and tucked under the skin of chicken before roasting.
As with onions, garlic’s multiple personalities are highlighted by different cooking techniques: Mince or smash raw cloves to add an assertive bite to salad dressings, pestos, salsas and relishes, and no-cook pasta sauces; sauté them until pale golden in butter or oil for a flavor that’s mild and mellow; roast a whole head in the oven until it turns mahogany brown for cloves that are buttery soft, rich, sweet, and earthy—and then spread the paste on bread, toss it with pasta, or incorporate it into dips and sauces.
HOW TO ROAST
(For all bulbs)
Peel onions and shallots; quarter onions, leaving wedges intact, and separate shallots (halve larger ones, if desired). Trim scallions, leeks, spring onions, green garlic, and ramps; leave whole or cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces (wash leeks well). Place on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Strew onions and shallots with fresh thyme or rosemary, if desired. Spread in an even layer and roast at 400°F, tossing once or twice, until tender and browned in spots, 15 to 20 minutes. Drizzle with vinegar (balsamic, cider, sherry, or white wine), and sprinkle with herbs.
(For garlic cloves)
Separate garlic cloves, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Roast at 400°F until skins are deep golden brown and flesh is very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. When cool enough to handle, slip out of skins, and use in dressings or sauces, or spread on crostini.
(For whole garlic)
Slice off top quarter of garlic head, exposing as many cloves as possible, with a serrated knife. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper; top with fresh thyme, if desired. Wrap in parchment, then foil, sealing to form a packet. Roast at 400°F until cloves are golden and very soft, 50 to 60 minutes. When cool enough to handle, squeeze head from bottom to push out cloves. Stir into mashed potatoes, whisk into vinaigrettes, or spread on sandwiches.
HOW TO GRILL
(For onions, scallions, leeks, spring onions, green garlic, ramps)
Peel onion, cut all the way through root end into 8 wedges (keep wedges intact), or slice into ½-inch-thick rounds. Trim scallions, spring onions, green garlic, and ramps. Trim leeks, halve lengthwise, and wash well. Toss with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook on a medium-hot grill, turning as needed, until tender and lightly charred in spots, 10 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle with fresh lemon juice or red-wine or sherry vinegar, drizzle with more oil, and top with chopped fresh herbs (parsley, mint, or basil).
(For shallots)
Peel and halve or quarter shallots, leaving wedges intact. Thread onto skewers; drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a medium-hot grill, turning as needed, until tender and lightly charred in spots, 45 to 50 minutes. Drizzle with red-wine or sherry vinegar while still warm.
HOW TO BRAISE
(For all bulbs)
Peel onions and shallots and trim roots, leaving bulbs intact. Halve or quarter onions, leaving wedges intact; halve shallots. Trim scallions, spring onions, green garlic, and ramps; leave whole or cut to fit into skillet. Trim leeks, halve lengthwise, and wash well. Heat butter or olive oil in a large cast-iron (or other ovenproof) skillet over medium. Add bulbs, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until golden brown, 2 to 5 minutes on each side. Add enough braising liquid (chicken or vegetable broth or water, or a combination) to cover and a few sprigs of thyme, if desired. Cover and cook in a 350°F oven until tender, 30 to 50 minutes. To glaze the bulbs, remove foil, raise oven heat to 450°F, and continue cooking until liquid reduces, thickens, and coats vegetables, 10 to 15 minutes more.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
Onions are used in such a wide variety of dishes, it would be almost quicker to list the things they don’t go with than those they do. Garlic, too, lends character to an astonishing range of preparations. Shallots can be substituted for either in a pinch; their mild, sweet flavor makes them a classic in salad dressings. Scallions and especially ramps introduce spicy, fresh, green, almost herbal notes.
GARLIC: chicken, lamb, rosemary, tomato, lemon, feta, ginger, soy sauce, mushrooms
ONIONS: chicken, meat, cheese, beer, wine, mustard, vinegar, ginger, thyme, nuts, greens
RAMPS: asparagus, eggs, mint, morels, vinegar, lentils, potatoes, fish, Parmesan
SCALLIONS: ginger, garlic, rice, eggs, bitter greens, butter, parsley, rice, tomatoes
SHALLOTS: butter, tarragon, mustard, garlic, salad greens, vinegar, fish, dried fruit
SWEET ONIONS: goat cheese, blue cheese, basil, cayenne, nutmeg, ham
THE RECIPES
Spaghetti with Mussels, Lemon, and Shallots
Roast Chicken with Onions, Shallots, Garlic, and Scapes
Israeli Couscous with Parsley and Shallots
Normandy-Style Chicken and Leeks with Crème Fraîche
Pasta Carbonara with Leeks and Lemon
Roasted Salmon and Spring Onions
Steamed Black Bass with Ginger and Scallions
Rice Noodles with Scallions and Herbs
Herb-and-Scallion Bread Pudding
Creamy Garlic, Parsley, and Feta Dressing
Caramelized onions are a remarkable flavor booster. Sliced thin to expose all their starches, onions slowly soften, turn a deep golden brown, and become wonderfully sweet. They are, of course, at the heart of French onion soup. In this update on the traditional recipe, we round out the flavors with three types of onion—red, white, and yellow—and combine them with an equal amount of shallots and a nice amount of fresh ginger.
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
1½ pounds each white, yellow, and red onions, thinly sliced lengthwise
1 piece (3 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and finely julienned
1½ pounds shallots, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons very thinly sliced fresh sage leaves, plus whole leaves for garnish
2 quarts low-sodium chicken broth
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
½ baguette, halved lengthwise and sliced
½ cup finely grated Gruyère cheese
1. In a large high-sided skillet, heat oil over medium. Add onions and ginger; cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, 45 minutes. Add shallots and sage. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally as onions reduce, until they are very soft and caramelized, about 1 hour. (Add a few tablespoons broth or water to skillet if onions start to stick.)
2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Pour broth into skillet, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, and cook 15 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Meanwhile, arrange bread on a baking sheet; brush with oil, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with cheese. Toast in oven until cheese is melted and golden, about 8 minutes.
4. While toast is in oven, heat 2 inches oil in a medium saucepan until shimmering. Fry sage leaves until just crisp, 15 to 20 seconds; use a slotted spoon or wire skimmer to transfer to paper towels to drain.
5. Divide soup among six bowls; garnish with sage leaves, and serve with cheese toasts.
TIP
Make a big batch of caramelized onions, and store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to five days. Use as a filling for omelets, a topping for burgers or steaks, or a sandwich spread. They are also delicious tossed with pasta.
Spaghetti with Mussels, Lemon, and Shallots
Shallots lack the bite of onions, and offer a milder, sweeter flavor that’s just right for steaming mussels—at least according to classic French preparations. In that spirit, we created a broth of shallots, red-pepper flakes, parsley stems, and white wine. You could serve the mussels with rustic bread, but we use them to make a “sauce” for spaghetti.
SERVES 6
1 pound spaghetti
Coarse salt
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 large shallots, diced
1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley stems, plus 1 cup coarsely chopped leaves
¾ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and beards removed
½ lemon, zested and juiced
1. Cook spaghetti in a pot of salted boiling water until al dente, according to package instructions. Reserve 1½ cups cooking water; drain pasta.
2. Meanwhile, in another pot, heat ¼ cup oil over medium high. Sauté shallots, red-pepper flakes, and parsley stems until tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add wine; cook until liquid is reduced by one-third, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes. Add mussels, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and steam until they open, 5 to 6 minutes (discard any unopened mussels).
3. Add pasta to pot, tossing until well combined. Add reserved pasta water, and continue to toss and cook over medium-high heat until sauce has reduced and coats pasta. Remove from heat. Stir in parsley leaves and lemon zest and juice, then remaining oil, and serve immediately.
TIP
To clean mussels, rinse them under cold running water and scrub the shells with a stiff sponge or vegetable brush. Discard any that are chipped or open. Next, grip the tough fibers (or beard) extending from the shell and tug to remove. Rinse again in cold water, drain, and chill until ready to use.
Roast Chicken with Onions, Shallots, Garlic, and Scapes
Roasting chicken on a bed of onions achieves two things: the onions impart flavor to the chicken, and they become wonderfully darkened. We’ve included a bunch of different alliums in this otherwise straightforward recipe, for a host of flavors: sliced red onion, whole shallots, fresh chives, and garlic in two forms (cloves and scapes). All can be enjoyed alongside the chicken, with crusty bread.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 whole chicken (4 to 4½ pounds)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch fresh oregano
1 red onion, thinly sliced
10 garlic cloves, unpeeled
6 shallots, peeled
2 bunches fresh chives
2 bunches garlic scapes
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Season chicken all over with salt and pepper. Tuck oregano into cavity. Scatter onion, garlic, shallots, chives, and scapes around a roasting pan. Place chicken, breast side up, in pan, and tuck wings under. Tie legs together with kitchen twine.
2. Roast chicken until juices run clear and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh (do not touch bone) reaches 165°F, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes before carving and serving.
TIP
Trussing a chicken encourages even cooking. To truss a chicken, place it with tail end closest to you and tuck the wing tips under. Center a long piece of twine, and run it around the neck; then pass it over the drumsticks, and tuck it under their joints. Crossing it over their joints, tighten to bring legs together and plump up the breast. Wrap one end all the way around the tail end, and tie into a knot.
Israeli Couscous with Parsley and Shallots
When you want a more subtle (less sweet) flavor than caramelized onions, try sautéing thinly sliced shallots over medium-high heat; they’ll soften and brown after just a few minutes. Here, the shallots are tossed with couscous, lemon juice, and parsley to make a bright side dish for chicken, pork, or fish, or a nice packable salad for lunch.
SERVES 4
1 cup Israeli (pearl) couscous
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
8 shallots, halved and thinly sliced
½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1. Cook couscous in a pot of boiling salted water until al dente, according to package instructions. Drain and transfer to a bowl.
2. Meanwhile, heat oil in a medium skillet over medium high. Add shallots; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Add to bowl with couscous. Add parsley and lemon juice, and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Thinly layered, slightly spicy yellow onions are used to make the light, crisp rings at Balthazar in New York City. (This recipe is adapted from the restaurant’s cookbook, and it is Martha’s hands-down favorite.) Beer flavors the batter and adds body, thanks to the bubbles. Baking powder, a leavening agent, helps to enlarge these bubbles as the batter fries.
SERVES 6
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more for sprinkling
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 cup beer, preferably lager or pilsner
2 tablespoons ice water
Peanut oil, for frying
2 medium yellow onions, cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices, separated into rings
1. Whisk together 1 cup flour, the salt, white pepper, and baking powder in a bowl. Whisk in beer and ice water until combined. Place remaining cup flour in a shallow dish.
2. Preheat oven to 200°F, with a baking sheet on middle rack. Heat 3 inches of oil to 375°F in a medium pot over medium high. Dredge onions in flour, turning to coat; tap off excess. Working in batches (about 8 at a time), dip onions in batter, shaking off excess. Carefully add to hot oil. Cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt. Transfer to baking sheet to keep warm while cooking remaining onions. Adjust heat as necessary to keep oil at a steady temperature. Serve hot.
Normandy-Style Chicken and Leeks with Crème Fraîche
Leeks grow in abundance in Normandy, in northern France, where the alliums are celebrated for their ability to transform even the simplest dish into something spectacular. Take chicken Normande, a multi-layered main course of braised chicken, hard apple cider (another local specialty), and of course, leeks. Serve this with crusty bread.
SERVES 4
1 whole chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 10 pieces (each breast cut in half crosswise)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 teaspoons olive oil
4 small leeks (white and pale-green parts only), cut crosswise into 3-inch pieces, rinsed well (about 1 pound)
1 cup good-quality hard apple cider
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves
½ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1. Season chicken all over with salt and pepper. Melt the butter with the oil in a large enameled cast-iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just bubbling. Add half the chicken pieces, skin side down; cook, turning once, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer chicken pieces to a plate. Repeat with remaining chicken pieces; add to plate. Remove pot from heat; let cool slightly.
2. Return pot to medium-low heat, and add leeks. Cook, stirring frequently, until leeks begin to soften and are pale golden, about 3 minutes. Add hard cider and thyme. Move leeks to edges of pot, and add all the chicken pieces to center, skin side down. Arrange leeks over chicken. Cover and cook 15 minutes (if liquid is bubbling rapidly, reduce heat to low). Turn chicken pieces, and cook until breasts are cooked through, about 5 minutes more. Use a slotted spoon to transfer chicken breasts to a plate, and cover to keep warm. Adjust leeks so they are submerged in liquid. Cook, uncovered, until the remaining chicken pieces are tender and cooked through, about 10 minutes.
3. Transfer all the chicken to a warm serving platter. Remove leeks from pot, and arrange them around the chicken. Cover to keep warm. Return pot to medium heat. Cook, uncovered, until liquid has reduced by about half (to a scant ⅔ cup), 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Reduce heat to medium low. Whisk in the crème fraîche and parsley. Ladle pan sauce over chicken and leeks. Serve immediately.
TIP
Regular apple cider or a dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc, can be used in place of the hard cider.
Pasta Carbonara with Leeks and Lemon
When it comes to carbonara, there are those who adhere to the original combination of egg, guanciale (or bacon or pancetta in its place), and grated cheese, and those who favor adding heavy cream to the mix. We say there’s room for both in your repertoire, including this version that’s enhanced with the flavor of sautéed leeks. Fresh parsley and lemon zest and juice add brightness.
SERVES 4
6 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
4 leeks (white and pale-green parts only), halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, rinsed well
Coarse salt and ground pepper
12 ounces short pasta, such as gemelli or campanelle
2 large eggs
¼cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
1. In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet. Add leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until leeks are golden brown, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a pot of salted boiling water until al dente, according to package instructions. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, cheese, and lemon zest and juice.
3. Measure out ¼ cup pasta water and whisk into egg mixture. Drain pasta and immediately add to egg mixture, along with bacon, leeks, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Sprinkle with more cheese, and serve immediately.
Roasted Salmon and Spring Onions
Because of when they arrive in the market, spring onions are often paired with other seasonal produce, including asparagus and peas, and as here, with wild salmon, whose season kicks off in April. The spring onions are roasted until golden brown; unlike storage onions and shallots, they don’t soften so much as become tender and chewy, a nice textural contrast to the salmon. A mint-almond-caper pesto is served alongside.
SERVES 8 TO 10
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1½ pounds spring onions, trimmed and halved lengthwise
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 piece (3 pounds) skinless salmon fillet, preferably wild Pacific
2 cups lightly packed fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons slivered blanched almonds, toasted
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling
2 lemons, cut into wedges, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 400°F, with racks in upper and lower thirds. Coat two rimmed baking sheets with 1 tablespoon oil each. Divide onions between baking sheets and drizzle each with 2 tablespoons oil; season generously with coarse salt and pepper. Roast until bottoms of onions are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating sheets from top to bottom halfway through. Remove from oven; reduce temperature to 325°F. Let onions cool, then combine on one sheet.
2. Place salmon on top of onions. Brush with 2 tablespoons oil and season with coarse salt and pepper. Roast on lower rack of oven until partially opaque in center, about 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, combine remaining ½ cup oil, the mint, almonds, capers, ¾ teaspoon coarse salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in a mini food processor or blender, and purée mixture until smooth.
4. Remove salmon and onions from oven; carefully transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle with sea salt; serve with lemon wedges and mint-caper pesto.
One of the most popular ways to preserve the flavor of ramps is pickling. The brine for these is infused with coriander and fennel seeds and thyme. Serve the ramps as an accompaniment to roasted meats, on a cheese board, or to garnish a cocktail.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
1 cup white-wine vinegar
½ cup sugar
1¼ teaspoons coarse salt
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
3 sprigs thyme
2 cups water
1 bunch ramps, trimmed and rinsed well
1. Stir together the vinegar, sugar, salt, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, peppercorns, red-pepper flakes, thyme, and the water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Add ramps; return to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.
2. Remove from heat, and let ramps cool completely in the liquid, about 1½ hours, before storing or serving. (Pickled ramps can be refrigerated in their liquid in an airtight container up to 1 month.)
The intense wild flavor of ramps makes them excellent candidates for grilling. Plus, the bulbs hold their shape beautifully, while the greens wilt just enough to be tender. We especially love grilled ramps served with a smear of Spanish romesco sauce, rich with the smoky flavor of roasted piquillo peppers.
SERVES 4 TO 6
¼ cup blanched almonds, toasted
1 garlic clove
1 jar (10 ounces) roasted piquillo chiles, drained
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grill
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
2 bunches ramps
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Pulse almonds and garlic in a food processor until coarsely ground. Add chiles, ¼ cup oil, and the vinegar; purée until smooth. Store romesco sauce in refrigerator, covered, up to 1 day; bring to room temperature before serving.
2. Heat grill to medium high. Trim and discard the tiny roots from the ramps.
3. Place ramps on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with remaining 3 tablespoons oil, and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Brush hot grates with oil. Arrange ramps on grill in a single layer. Grill until hot and charred in spots, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a platter. Serve warm or at room temperature, with romesco.
Steamed Black Bass with Ginger and Scallions
Here, a mixture of aromatic scallions and fresh ginger is stuffed into the cavity of a whole fish as it steams, and the rest is spread on top, for unbeatable flavor all around (red onion is also used to line the steamer basket). Red snapper or trout is a good alternative to black bass. Serve with cooked rice or rice noodles.
SERVES 2
½ cup low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 whole black bass (each 1½ to 2 pounds and 1½ inches thick), scaled and gutted, gills removed
1 piece (2 inches) peeled fresh ginger, cut into matchsticks
5 scallions, halved lengthwise, and cut into 2- to 4-inch pieces; plus more, chopped, for sauce
1 large red onion, sliced ½ inch thick
1. Whisk together soy sauce and sesame oil in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Cut a few slits into the fish on both sides using a sharp paring knife. Transfer evenly to dish; turn to coat fish.
2. Toss ginger with scallions; stuff some into each fish cavity. Spread remaining mixture on top of fish. Let stand, covered, spooning marinade over fish often, for 30 minutes.
3. Bring about 2 cups water to a boil in a large skillet or wok. Arrange red onion on bottom layer of a 12-inch bamboo steamer. Remove fish from marinade with ginger-scallion mixture still on top, and arrange side by side on onion; reserve marinade. Set steamer in skillet. Steam, covered, until fish is cooked through and vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, bring marinade to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook until reduced by half. Strain through a fine sieve; add chopped scallions. Serve fish and vegetables with sauce.
TIP
If you don’t have a bamboo steamer, you can arrange the fish side by side in a steamer basket set in a pot filled with one inch of water.
Rice Noodles with Scallions and Herbs
This recipe demonstrates how the often-discarded dark green parts of the scallion can add great taste and color to a dish. This is true of lots of Asian recipes, where scallions are used along with garlic and fresh ginger, and which often involve brief cooking at most (think stir-fries). Here, scallion greens are cooked for a mere ten seconds, just long enough to release their flavor and make them a bit more tender.
SERVES 4
8 ounces rice vermicelli
½ cup water
¼ cup fish sauce, such as nam pla or nuoc nam
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
2 tablespoons packed light-brown sugar
1 teaspoon sliced fresh red chile, preferably Thai bird chile
¼ cup safflower oil
1 garlic clove, minced
4 scallions (dark-green parts only), thinly sliced
3 large leaves Boston or Bibb lettuce, very thinly sliced
1 medium carrot, peeled and julienned
¼ cup each lightly packed fresh mint and basil leaves, torn into small pieces
1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Cook vermicelli, stirring occasionally, just until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain, then rinse with cold water. Let vermicelli drain in colander for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally.
2. Meanwhile, combine the water, fish sauce, lime juice, brown sugar, and chile in a small bowl.
3. Heat oil in a skillet over medium. Add garlic and scallions, and cook, stirring, for 10 seconds. Remove from heat.
4. Toss scallion mixture and sauce with noodles in a serving bowl. Add lettuce, carrot, and herbs, and toss to combine.
Scapes are slightly spicy and, along with fresh chives, make a lovely topping for toasts spread with butter. They can also be used as a substitute for ramps—in other words, pickled, grilled, and used in pestos and pasta dishes.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 baguette, sliced ½ inch thick
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2 garlic scapes, cut on the bias
2 tablespoons coarsely snipped fresh chives
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat grill to medium high. Toast baguette halves, cut side down, on grill until golden brown. Dividing evenly, spread butter on toasts, then top with scapes and chives, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Green garlic mixed with softened butter, Parmesan, and chives makes a compound butter that is as versatile as can be. Here, it’s melted atop steak, with hearts of romaine alongside; try it over scrambled eggs, steamed asparagus, or boiled new potatoes.
SERVES 4
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
3 tablespoons chopped young green garlic stalks (white and green parts)
1 garlic clove, halved
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of red-pepper flakes
In a bowl, mix together butter, Parmesan, both garlics, chives, ¼ teaspoon each salt and black pepper, and the red-pepper flakes until combined. Green-garlic butter can be refrigerated, covered, up to 1 week or frozen up to 3 months. Serve at room temperature.
Herb-and-Scallion Bread Pudding
A full two bunches of scallions—white bulbs, pale-green parts, and dark-green tops—go into this savory side dish. We use a combination of parsley, sage, and thyme, but other herbs (chervil, oregano, and marjoram) would also work. Consider adding this to your Thanksgiving menu, or to accompany crown roast or beef tenderloin at Christmas—or with roast chicken, for no occasion at all.
SERVES 8
10 cups cubed day-old challah or brioche, in 1-inch cubes (from 1 or 2 loaves)
½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
¼ cup packed fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, coarsely chopped
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for baking dish
4 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 bunches scallions, thinly sliced
8 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups heavy cream
1. Combine bread cubes, parsley, sage, and thyme in a large bowl. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium. Cook celery and garlic with a pinch of salt until celery is tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Add scallions and cook until tender but still bright green, about 4 minutes. Pour mixture into bowl with bread, and stir. Let cool.
2. Preheat oven to 325°F. Butter a 3-quart round baking dish (2 to 3 inches deep) or a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Whisk together eggs, broth, and heavy cream, and season with salt and pepper. Pour over bread mixture, tossing until bread is evenly soaked. Transfer to baking dish, pressing into corners, and dot top with remaining tablespoon butter.
3. Bake until top puffs and center is set, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly before serving.
Ajo blanco (“white garlic”) is a tomato-free gazpacho from Málaga, on Spain’s southern coast. Garlic cloves are briefly boiled to soften and mellow before being puréed with the other ingredients, including almonds. Grapes and Marcona almonds garnish each serving.
SERVES 6
3 cups cubed crustless day-old rustic bread
5 garlic cloves
2 cups blanched almonds
2½ teaspoons sherry vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Sliced red seedless grapes and chopped Marcona almonds, for serving
1. Soak bread in water for 15 minutes. Cover garlic with water in a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Cook for 3 minutes; drain.
2. Pulse blanched almonds in a food processor until finely ground. Squeeze excess liquid from bread, discarding liquid, and transfer bread to processor. Add garlic, vinegar, and 1½ teaspoons salt; purée mixture until smooth. With machine running, add oil in a slow, steady stream, alternating with ¼ cup cold water, blending until emulsified. Blend in another 2¼ cups cold water. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing on solids to extract liquid; discard solids. Season with salt.
3. Chill gazpacho, at least 1 hour or up to 1 day. Season with salt and pepper. Divide gazpacho among bowls. Drizzle with oil and top with grapes and almonds, just before serving.
Creamy Garlic, Parsley, and Feta Dressing
A tablespoon of chopped raw garlic may seem like an overabundance (unless you are fending off vampires), but it’s the starting point for a creamy dressing that’s kept in check with bright parsley and lemon juice, fruity olive oil, sharp feta, and tangy yogurt. Toss it with mild, tender lettuces, such as Boston or Bibb, or drizzle over grilled chicken.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
⅓ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon minced garlic
⅔ cup plain Greek yogurt
⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (3 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon coarse salt
Purée parsley, the water, and garlic in a blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, and blend until just combined. Refrigerate, covered, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 week; stir to combine again before serving.